CHAPTER 11 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP 2012 Edition Q. What are the two ADD: chief purposes of hair? A. Protection B. Adornment Add to the side bar: Hair is an appendage of the skin http://beautyeditor.ca/2009/10/27/save-vs-splurge-argan-oil-hair-treatments/ TRICOLOGY scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care comes from Greek words: Trichos=hair ology=the study of Integumentary System ~the outer covering that encloses the entire body includes the hair, skin, nails, and glands ***is the largest and fastest growing organ body http://images.google.com/imgres?q=cross+section+of+skin+diagram&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1008&bih=588&tbm=isch&tbnid=1HN3S_H2yA6bwM:&imgrefurl=http://www.elcosh.org/en/document/322/d000303/contact-dermtoolboxtalk.html&docid=0S3J3vPqFij8MM&imgurl=http://www.elcosh.org/record/document/322/image3.jpg&w=280&h=323&ei=75yuTsGlBYbn0QGeheXHDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=534&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbn h=105&tbnw=91&start=15&ndsp=17&ved=1t:429,r:2,s:15&tx=49&ty=84 STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR hair is divided into two parts: Hair root ~located below the surface of the epidermis (outer layer of the skin) Hair shaft ~projects above the epidermis Structures of the Hair Root The main structures are: Follicle Bulb Dermal papilla Arrector pili muscle Sebaceous glands Follicle ~ tube-like depression or pocket in the skin or scalp ~ contains the hair root ~ distributed all over the body ~ except *palms of the hands *soles of the feet ~ multiple hairs/one follicle The follicle “Tunnel” epidermis (outer layer of the skin) dermis (inner layer of the skin) Surrounds the dermal papilla Internet source: acne-site.com Hair bulb-the lowest area or part of the hair strand. thickened, club-shaped part of the hair root fits over and covers the dermal papilla Internet source: Missinglink.ucsf.edu Dermal papilla ~ cone-shaped elevation ~ base of the hair follicle ~ fits into hair bulb. contains the blood and nerve supply provides nutrients “mother of the hair” Arrector pili: small, involuntary muscle ~ base of the hair follicle. Strong emotions(fear) or cold ~ contracts www.unexpectedpages.com/.../goosebumps.jpg “goose bumps” Sebaceous glands ~ oil glands ~ connected to the hair follicles. ~ secretes oily substance ~ sebum ~ lubricates Sebaceous gland Structures of the Hair Shaft Three main layers 1. Cuticle ~ outermost layer of hair ~ overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells ~ shingles on a roof ~provides a barrier/protects inner structure ~lies tightly against the cortex ~ creates shine, smooth silky feel **Show----Feel hair strand (both ways) hair’s primary defense against damage Internet source: the gentle touch.com Individual cuticle scales are attached to the cortex ***The hair has only one cuticle layer Q. Why are we cautioned that there is only one cuticle layer? Swelling the hair: ~ raises the cuticle layer ~ opens the space between the scales ~allows liquids to penetrate Internet source: Hairdressersus.com Damaged cuticle Haircolor, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline (base) pH to penetrate the cuticle layer Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex Q. Is haircolor spelled correctly? Cortex-is the middle layer of the hair ~ fibrous protein ~elongated cells ~melanin pigment Q. What does the word melanin mean? ~ elasticity of the hair ~ natural color ~ located in the cortex all changes (physical or chemical) take place within the cortex Activity: With a partner list on paper (be specific) Q. Determine what services create a physical change to the hair and which ones create a chemical change to the hair. 2 people from each table write two answers on flip chart paper Answer: Physical-wet setting (rollers, pin curls, finger waves), thermal styling (includes blow drying, curling iron, flat iron, hot rollers, press and curl) Chemical-permanent haircolor, hair lightening, permanent waving, chemical relaxing In book- page222 Internet source: Hairdressersus.com Womensnet.com Medulla-the inner most layer ~ composed of round cells *missing medulla ~ very fine hair ~ naturally blonde hair ~coarse hair contains a medulla Internet source: Ecobyte.com.au Bfro.net All beard hair contains a medulla not involved in salon services Add to side bar: Barba-hair of the face Capilli-hair on the head Cilia-hair of the eyelashes Supercilia-hair of the eyebrows THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR composed of protein in the hair follicle ADD: keratin This is where the hair shaft begins living cells form journey upward through the hair follicle process called keratinization. As the cells mature Killerstrands.blogspot.com ~ fill up with a fibrous protein ~keratin ~move upward ~ lose their nucleus ~ die ~ emerges from the scalp, ~ cells are keratinized ~ no longer living ~ nonliving fiber of keratinized protein ~ 90% protein ~protein made up of long chains of amino acids Main elements: (chemical composition) Carbon Oxygen Hydrogen Nitrogen Sulfur http://images.google.com/imgres?q=cohn%27s+elements+of+the+periodic+table&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=596&tbm=isch&tbnid=dUwFPL6QxJELcM:&imgrefurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/courses/bio104/atomh2o.htm&docid=MLVeqpxKSgnnM&imgurl=http://biology.clc.uc.edu/graphics/bio104/periodic.jpg&w=400&h=298&ei=WayuToiFA8O1gweb_b3KDw&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=287&sig=115570578519706265263&page=2&tbnh=106&tbnw=141&sta rt=16&ndsp=18&ved=1t:429,r:10,s:16&tx=61&ty=70 Referred to as the COHNS elements Also found in skin and nails Add: chemical composition Top of page shows the % of each element. Amino acids- long chains of protein •joined together like pop beads (candy necklace) The chemical bond that joins the amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond or end bond. •A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide. •spiral shape of coiled protein is called a helix. Activity: Do helix project http://scienceray.com/biology/proteins/ THE SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX •made up of millions of polypeptide chains •Polypeptide chains are crosslinked by three different types of side bonds: Responsible for: •Extreme strength •Elasticity Essential to: • Wet sets •Thermal styling • Permanent waving •Chemical hair relaxing Three types 0f Side Bonds: •Hydrogen bonds •Salt bonds •Disulfide bonds Backreaction.blogspot.com Q. In the chart, what can be said about the three types of bonds? Hydrogen bond weak physical side bond Easily broken by water or heat Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength Wetting the hair: •Allows the hair to be stretched and wrapped around rollers/rods •Reforms when the hair dries http://images.google.com/imgres?q=roller+sets+on+natural+hair&hl=en&biw=1024&bih=619&gbv=2&tbm=isch&tbnid=J1FgFtlgpV86eM:&imgrefurl=http:// afropeanqueen.blogspot.com/2011/03/roller-set-re-done-and-hair-length.html&docid=tTmufLTEb1XB1M&imgurl=http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0a8SssYfC6c/TY912zvlcI/AAAAAAAAAbM/HqHSoMDKDW8/s1600/DSCN0672.JPG&w=1200&h=1600&ei=T0T9TpeTHZPAgAfKrp2XAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=611&vpy=185&du r=868&hovh=259&hovw=194&tx=108&ty=139&sig=115570578519706265263&page=10&tbnh=126&tbnw=103&start=171&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:4,s:171 Salt bond weak physical side bond Depend on pH Easily broken by -strong alkaline or acidic solutions Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength Disulfide bond ~strong chemical side bond accounts for 1/3 overall strength Not broken by heat or water Broken by: ~ permanent waves ~ chemical relaxers ~alters the shape of the hair Thio permanent waves (base) ~ break the disulfide bonds ~ reformed by thio neutralizer (acid) Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers ~ break disulfide bonds ~ bonds are broken permanently (becomes lanthionine bond) ~ can never be reformed Go over Figure 11-7 and 11-8 Read: Table 11-2 top of page Read: Did you know-next page Hair Pigment: ~ pigment located in the cortex Melanin ~ tiny grains of pigment ~ cortex The two main types: 1. Eumelanin brown and black 2. Pheomelanin red /ginger yellow/blonde ~result: natural hair color- ratio of both Wave Pattern Refers to the shape of the hair strand Described as: •straight •wavy • curly • extremely curly result of genetics General rule: Asians ~extremely straight hair Caucasians ~straight to wavy hair African Americans ~extremely curly hair all wave patterns ~ in all races vary from strand to strand ~ same person’s head theories to explain the cause of natural curly hair One theory-the shape of the crosssection (round, oval, flat), determines the amount of curl, however, the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl. Another theory-the result of one side of the hair strand growing faster than the other side, tension with in the strand causes the long side to curl around the short side. (not proven) Extremely Curly Hair long twisted spirals coiled hair ~fine texture low elasticity breaks easily ~tendency to knot gentle scalp manipulations conditioning shampoos detangling rinses help HAIR GROWTH Two main types of hair Vellus (or lanugo) Terminal Vellus or lanugo hair: Short ~ fine ~unpigmented ~downy Almost never has a medula Found on infants/children until puberty On adults: found on places considered hairless ~forehead ~ eyelids ~ bald scalp •Nearly all other areas Except: ~ palms of hands ~ soles of feet •Helps in evaporation of perspiration Hairireland.ie Terminal hair: Long, coarse, pigmented hair ~ scalp ~ legs ~ arms ~ males and females Coarser than vellus hair Is pigmented ~ except gray hair ~ usually has a medulla Hormone changes ~ during puberty ~ vellus hair replaced ~ thicker terminal hair Hair follicles produce ~ vellus or ~ terminal hair Depends ~ genetics ~ age ~ hormonal changes THE GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR occurs in cycles---three phases repeated over and over again Anagen-growth phase Catagen-transition phase Telogen-resting phase Anagen: The Growth Phase New hair produced New cells produced in Follicle Hair cells are produced faster Average growth ~ ½ inch per month ~rate of growth varies…read About 90% of hair ~ in Anagen phase ~ lasts 3-5 years ~ to 10 years Catagen: The Transition Phase Brief transition period Between the growth and resting phases ~ signals the end of growth ~ follicle canal shrinks ~ detaches from the dermal papilla Hair bulb disappears Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time Very short, lasts 1-2 weeks Internet source: Hairrestoration.com Telogen : the Resting Phase Final phase Lasts until the fully grown hair is shed or until the next new hair pushes out the old 10% in this phase Lasts 3-6 months Returns to Anagen phase Cycle begins again Repeats every 4-5 years Ukhairdressers.com www.agelesszonereno.com/about_ageless_zone_sp... Myths: Shaving, etc: no effect on hair growth Scalp massage: no evidence Gray hair more resistant same as pigmented hair (I beg to differ) Natural curl determined by race: anyone can have any degree of curl HAIR LOSS Normal daily hair loss ~ three phases Average daily hair loss ~ 75-100 hairs we want) (this is the answer Information we want you to know: Write on the side: Facts •The average life span of hair is 4-6 years •Everyone sheds 75-100 hairs per day •Hair does not grow after death •Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4-5 months FYI: Causes of Hair Loss Poor circulation Stress Thyroid disease High blood pressure Iron deficiency Pregnancy Liver malfunction Chemotherapy B & vitamin deficiencies Skin Disease Large doses of Vitamin A High fever Cholesterol Alcohol and caffeine Sudden weight loss Medications Psychemedics.com THE EMOTIONAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS medical community ~ not a medical condition anguish ~ very real ~ overlooked Bald men are perceived as: •Less physically attractive (by both sexes) •Less assertive •Less successful •Less personally likeable •Older (by about 5 years) How shallow we can be??? Bald men perceive themselves: Experience negative ~ social and emotional effects Preoccupied with their baldness Make effort ~ conceal ~ compensate For women ~ very traumatic ~ devastating ~ feel anxious ~ helpless ~ less attractive 63 million people in US ~ suffer from abnormal hair loss (alopecia) you will be the first person that a hair loss sufferer will confide in understand… ~types of hair loss ~products and services available TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIR LOSS Abnormal hair loss ~alopecia Most common types are: Androgenic alopecia Alopecia areata Postpartum alopecia Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia miniaturization of terminal hair *converting it to vellus hair The result ~ genetics (heredity) ~ age ~ hormonal changes Can begin in the teens ~frequently by 40 male pattern baldness horseshoe-shaped fringe In women Sacimdokuluyor.com ~ generalized thinning ~ crown area Sacimdokuluyor.com Healthhype.com Add to side bar: Alopecia Senilis: baldness due to old age Alopecia Prematura: baldness that begins before middle age Alopecia areata autoimmune disease ~ hair follicles ~ attacked by immune system White blood cells ~ stop hair growth (anagen phase) FYI- just know sudden falling out ~ patches ~ baldness in spots scalp and body (In book) unpredictable skin disease Add to side bar: Possible cause: flairs up with stress and trauma Associatedcontent.com Usually begins ~ one or more ~ round, small ~ smooth patches on the scalp Can progress total scalp hair loss ~ alopecia totalis Or complete body hair loss ~ alopecia universalis males and females ~ begins in childhood ~ no signs of inflammation ~ no skin disorder or disease POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA Temporary hair loss ~experienced at the end of a pregnancy Very little hair loss during pregnancy Sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months after delivery Returns to normal within one year Internet source Ezinearticles.com FYI Estrogen stimulates hair follicles ~ anagen growing phase ~ hair does not cycle as it normally would. ***After child is born ~ estrogen level drops ~ hair enters the catagen and telogen phase ~ very traumatic ~ returns to normal one year Add to side bar: Telogen Effluvium: Premature shedding in resting phase Possible causes: difficult childbirth shock fever drug intake crash diets Add to side bar: Traumatic Alopecia: Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting Possible causes: ~ excessive application of chemicals (perms/relaxers) ~ excessive use of hot combs HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS Minoxidil and Finasteride ~ have been proven to stimulate hair growth ~ approved by FDA Minoxidil ~ topical medication ~ applied to scalp ~ twice a day www.thehairlossclinicstore.com/store/media/mi... Sold O-T-C ~ men and women ~ 2% or 5% strength ~ no known side effects Internet source: Myths and facts about hair loss: Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father Fact: Both parent's genes are a factor. Androgenetic alopecia is geneticallylinked hair thinning. Myth: (not in book) (do not add) Teasing, using hair color, other products, or frequently washing hair increases hair loss. Fact: Normal hair care doesn't affect hair loss. Finasteride ~ oral prescription medication ~ for men only ~ more effective ~ more side effects ~ women can not use ~ pregnant women causes birth defects Surgical options: Transplant or hair plugs ~ removing small sections of hair ~ follicle, papilla, and bulb from the back ~ transplanting in the bald area. Internet source: Hairtransplantnetwork.com The bulb grows normally in the new location Surgeons Several surgeries $8,000-$20,000 Add to side bar: medical treatment scalp reduction Internet source: Newhair.com Howstuffworks.com non-surgical/non-medical hair replacements: ~ wigs ~ toupees ~ hair weaving ~ hair extensions Learn to fit ~ color ~ cut ~ style wigs and toupees Weavings and extensions ~ enhance client’s natural hair ~ boosts their self-esteem Internet source: Madeinchina.com Wigsontop.com Jewel-and-jewel.com Beasbraiding.com DISORDERS OF THE HAIR CANITIES ~ gray hair ~ loss of the natural melanin pigment ~ same as pigmented hair Two types: Congenital Canities ~ exists at or before birth ~ occurs in albinos ~ can be patchy Add: Albino-person born with no coloring matter, resulting in white hair Acquired Canities ~ develops with age ~ result of genetics. ~ may develop * worry * anxiety * prolonged illness Trihup.cpm More.com Ringed hair ~ alternating bands ~ gray and pigmented hair ~ length of hair strand Hypertrichosis ~ hirsuities ~ abnormal growth of hair ~ terminal hair in areas of vellus hair ~ mustache or light beard on women Remember: Hyper=excess hair On test: Superflous- more than usual http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=61rXe3OxJwVplM:&imgrefurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/hirsutewomen.html&docid=02f8UUb6lxn_1M&imgurl=http://www.hairremoval4guys.com/images/Hirsute_Women_01.jpg&w=314&h=235&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=rc&dur=214&sig=115570578519706265263& page=5&tbnh=124&tbnw=157&start=72&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:9,s:72&tx=103&ty=92 http://images.google.com/imgres?q=hypertrichosis&hl=en&gbv=2&biw=1024&bih=619&tbm=isch&tbnid=LE6TnepyUWAFwM:&imgrefurl=http://ahsmediacenter.pbworks.com/w/page/1991874/Hypertrichosis%2520Introduction%2520and%2520Types%2520%25202&docid=V01tUYVOrCsSeM&imgurl=http://img.tfd.com/wiki/3/3e/Hypertrichosis.jpg&w=350&h=505&ei=atX9TpHSIIvQgAec2MWfAg&zoom=1&iact=hc&vpx=473&vpy=138&dur=2681&hovh=270&hovw=187&tx=114 &ty=160&sig=115570578519706265263&page=1&tbnh=104&tbnw=72&start=0&ndsp=20&ved=1t:429,r:3,s:0 treatments include ~electrolysis ~photoepilation ~laser hair removal ~tweezing ~shaving ~electronic tweezers ~depilatories ~threading ~sugaring Trichoptilosis split ends treatments: ~ conditioning to soften ~ remove by cutting Remember: Chop=needs cutting or “chop off” Trichorrhexis Nodosa knotted hair ~ brittleness ~ formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft ~ hair breaks easily ~ broken fibers spread out like a brush along hair shaft Treatments: ~ conditioners ~ moisturizers Remember: Trichorrhexis nodosa -Needs correcting -nodosa-nodules Monilethrix beaded hair ~ breaks easily between the beads or nodes Treatments: ~ hair and scalp conditioning Fragilitas crinium brittle hair ~ may split at any part of their length Treatment: ~ hair and scalp conditioning ~cutting above the split to prevent further damage Remember: Fragile=brittle segal.koreanbusiness.co.kr/.../book-photo3.gif DISORDERS OF THE SCALP outer layer ~ shed ~ replaced by new cells Healthy, normal scalp cells fall off naturally ~ small, dry flakes ~ without being noticed dry scalp-(not dandruff) ~ flakes much smaller ~ less noticeable flakes contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age worse in cold, dry climates Medical term for dandruff: Pityriasis excessive production and accumulation of skin cells large visible clumps of cells dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia Malassezia naturally occurring fungus present on all human skin symptoms when it grows out of control stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause symptoms to worsen antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents ~pyrithione zinc (professional and OTC) ~selenium sulfide (Selson Blue) ~ketoconazole (OTC-Nizoral) suppresses the growth of malassezia hairbeautycollections.com.au Pyrithione zinc is gentle enough to be used everyday color-treated hair frequent use is essential Nature.com Mild,moderate,severe cases School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious. Mrs. Kucas and I feel that dandruff is contagious. (contradicts your book) ***Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disorder Two principal types: Pityriasis capitis simplex: •technical term for classic dandruff ADD: dry dandruff •scalp irritation •large {thin} flakes • itchy scalp Scales may: •attach to the scalp in masses •scatter loosely in the hair •fall to the shoulders Add to side bar: Dry dandruff is the result of a sluggish scalp caused by: • poor circulation • lack of nerve stimulation • improper diet •emotional and glandular disturbances •poor personal hygiene Treatments include: antidandruff shampoos conditioners “medicated” topical lotions “Antiseptic” scalp lotions scalp treatments regular scalp massage Add: medicated/antiseptic Pityriasis steatoides •more severe •accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales •mixed with sebum •stick to the scalp in patches or crusts •When accompanied by redness and inflammation is: “seborrheic dermatisis” (if torn off bleeding or oozing of the sebum results) •Can be found in eyebrows/beards •Client with these two conditions (Pityriasis steatoides and seborrheic dermatitis) must be referred to a FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA) TINEA •ringworm •itching, scales, and sometimes, painful circular lesions •Several may be present at the same time •A fungal (vegetable) organism is not an animal parasite Rancocasvalley.com •All forms are contagious •Easily transmitted FYI: Infected skin scales and hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease •Bathtubs •Swimming pools •Unsanitary personal articles •Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease ***Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment Tinea barbae (barber’s itch) •Infection resulting from hair services •Mustache and beard •Similar to tinea capitis in appearance dermis.net •Do not perform services!!! •Refer to physician dermatology.cdlib.org TINEA CAPITIS Add to side bar: Ringworm of the scalp • Characterized by red papules, or spots •at opening of the hair follicles •patches spread ~hair brittle and lifeless •hair often breaks off •leaving only a stump •may be shed from the enlarged open follicle visualdx Tinea favosa/ Tinea Favus Add to side bar: honeycomb ringworm •dry •sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts •on the scalp called scutula •distinctive odor Scars: bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny ADD:very contagious-refer to physician Doctorfungus.org Tinea favosa Tinea capitis ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS SCABIES •itch is a highly contagious skin disease •itch mite burrowing under the skin •vesicles (blisters) •pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) •usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this animal parasite •excessive itching makes the condition worse Stanford.edu Stanford.edu Commonswikimedia.org Tunnel/burrow of parasite •Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment PEDICULOSIS CAPITIS •infestation ~ hair and scalp ~ head lice •feed on the scalp ~ dead skin cells •itching ~ scratching can cause an infection •transmitted Pedistrics.about.com Headlicetrix.com Pediatrics.about.com Media.acbnews.com Pediatrics.about.com Pediatrics.about.com img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg Empty shell left after lice hatch img.medscape.com/.../211212-225013-2402.jpg cm.edu.qt howtodo101.com/.../ • contact with infested hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles •you can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass • Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease • Several nonprescription medications are available •Do not perform a service on anyone who has head lice FYI Recently on the news, they reported that the lice are becoming resist to the shampoos that kill the lice. This means the lice will be much harder or impossible to get rid of. •Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician or pharmacist STAPHYLOCOCCI INFECTIONS •Are bacteria that infect the skin or scalp Furuncle: • boil is an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain • limited to a specific area • produces a pustule perforated by a hair Onlinehealthbook.com Carbuncle: •inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue ~ caused by staphylococci •similar to furuncle only larger Missinglinkucsf.edu • Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of these disease •Do not perform services Clients with this condition must be referred to a physician for medical treatment HAIR ANALYSIS all services begin: ~analysis of client’s hair type ~condition *determines the results that can be expected from the service different types of hair ~react differently to the same service performed prior to all salon services Factors: texture porosity elasticity density growth pattern dryness/oiliness HAIR TEXTURE thickness or diameter ~ individual hair strand coarse medium fine different areas of the head ~may have different textures Coarse texture large diameter more resistant styletips101.com requires more processing time *hair lighteners *haircolors *permanent waves *chemical relaxers Medium texture most common your-hairstyles.com considered normal (standard) does not pose any special problems or concerns Fine texture smallest diameter fragile easier to process more susceptible to damage from chemical services short-hair-style.com Determined ~ by feeling a single dry strand ~ between the fingers Take an individual strand from: • Front hairline • The temple • The crown • The nape hold the strand securely ~ feel it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand feel the difference between ~ coarse ~ medium ~ fine Read “Focus on” HAIR DENSITY measures ~ number of individual hair strands ~ on one square inch how many on one person’s head Classified as: Low textbook Thin Medium Medium High Thick Mrs. Kucas Mrs. Mandato same hair texture ~different densities i.e. Coarse hair texture ~ low density (thin) fine hair texture ~ high density (thick) average hair density ~ 2,200 hairs per square inch average head ~ 100,000 hairs ~ varies with the color blondes high density redheads lowest Table 11-4 Q. How do we determine what the amount of density is? a. Use fingers to feel the hair b. Look at the scalp area c. Ask the client how dense they think their hair is d. Ask another stylist to help us decide HAIR POROSITY ability of the hair to absorb moisture condition of the cuticle layer compact cuticle layer ~ resistant to penetration referred to as Hydrophobic (phobic---does not like) porous hair/raised cuticle ~ easily absorbs moisture ~Referred to as Hydrophilic (philic---attracted to) low porosity ~ resistant ~ more alkaline solution ~ longer processing time alkaline solutions ~ raise the cuticle permit uniform ~ saturation and processing Average/normal porosity ~ considered normal ~ processes as expected *according to the texture High porosity ~ overly porous ~ result of over processing ~ damaged ~ dry ~ fragile and brittle ~ less alkaline solutions (lower pH) POROSITY TEST dry hair (I like clean, towel dried hair) one inch patch hold strand securely *slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand *3-4” from the end *to the scalp three times Technicurl.com Determining the results: no hair or nearly no hair ~very resistant small amount ~resistant medium amount ~average or normal a lot of hair comes down=porous most of the hair comes down=overly porous Q. What four areas of the head should be checked? Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair? Textbook: Low 3 descriptions (resistant) Average Highly porous Mrs. Kucas/Mrs. Mandato: Add: Very resistant Resistant Normal/average Porous Highly/very porous 5 descriptions HAIR ELASTICITY Ability of the hair to ~stretch and return ~original length ~without breaking Indication of the strength of the side bonds wet hair with normal elasticity ~ stretch up to 50% of its original length ~ return without breaking Dry hair stretches 20% ***will hold the curl from wet sets and permanent waves low elasticity: ~ brittle ~ breaks easily does not hold curl low elasticity ~ overprocessed milder solution ~ lower pH ELASTICITY TEST ***Also called a pull test Check elasticity ~wet hair ~individual strand Hold a single strand of wet hair ~ try to pull it apart stretches and returns to ~ original length without breaking ~ normal/good elasticity breaks easily ~ fails to return to its original length ~ it has low/poor elasticity ***crinkles=bad Q. Describe texture and give the classifications and how to tell. Q. What are the classifications for density? Q. Explain what porosity is, its classifications and the test for porosity. Q. Define elasticity, list classifications, describe the test. GROWTH PATTERNS important ~ shaping and styling hair growth patterns ~streams, whorls, and cowlicks Internet source: Justformom slides.com Hair stream: •flowing same direction •follicles sloping same direction •two streams opposite directions ~ form a natural part Whorl: • forms a circular pattern • crown Dana.org Internet source: Hairboutique.com Cowlick: •Tuft of hair ~ stands straight up •Usually at the front hairline •May be located anywhere DRY HAIR AND SCALP inactive sebaceous glands dry climate hair appears dull, dry and lifeless moisturizers and emollients Avoid frequent shampooing Internet source: Pq.com/science/hair care Avoid ~ strong soaps ~ detergents ~ products with high alcohol content Dry hair ~not overly-porous OILY HAIR AND SCALP Causes: greasy buildup on scalp oily coating improper shampooing overactive sebaceous glands normalizing shampoo Well-balanced diet Exercise Regular shampooing Good personal hygiene will control oily hair and scalp Read: Healthy Hair, Happy Clients