skin conditions - authorized use only

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dermalogica partnership school program
segment
1
school
program
Segment 1
introduction
course goals
• To provide you with the highest level of
technical and theoretical skills
• To help you reach your professional goals
in the exciting field of professional skin
therapy
• To support you throughout the term with
an emphasis on excellence in education,
using the most current educational
resources in the skin care industry
course outline
• Product knowledge: prescription for home
care and professional treatments
• Learn the dermalogica skin treatment
• Design prescription (customized) skin
treatments
• Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis
procedure
• Discuss and perform exfoliation
techniques
course outline
• Learn and practice extraction techniques
• Determine different types of serums and
masque applications
• How to build a clientele and prescriptive
retailing
•
The dermalogica skin
treatment
The professional
environment
• The consultation
• Face Mapping® skin
analysis for
prescriptive retail
• The techniques and
professional product
application
creating a dermalogica
skin care environment
• Visually – Sense of sight
• Verbally – Spoken word
• Kinesthetically – Through touch and feel
room set up - preparation
•
•
•
•
First Impressions
Warm and inviting
atmosphere
Supplies and equipment in
working order and on hand
Cabinets clean and
organized
Freshly laundered
bedding, towels, and client
garments
core elements of a skin care
treatment
•
•
•
•
•
Consultation
Cleanse eyes and lips
Cleanse 2x
Skin analysis
Exfoliation
•
•
•
•
•
Extractions
Massage
Masque
Tone
Moisturize/sunscreen
treatment “options”
• Consultation
• Cleanse eyes and lips
• Cleanse x 2 steam/electric brushes
• Skin analysis
• Exfoliation steam/electric brushes
• Desincrustation,
galvanic
• Vacuum suction with
steam
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Extractions
High frequency
Massage - infra red
Concentrate
Masque
Electric pulverisator
High frequency
Tone
Concentrate
Moisturize/sunscreen
your professional products
•
•
•
•
•
Largest selection of professional products
Used by professional skin therapists only
Formula breakthroughs and maximum strength
Full ingredient listing on packaging
Specialty products and retail products in
professional size
the consultation card
Discovering more about your client
conducting the
consultation
• Complete the card 15
minutes before treatment
time
• Client signature is critical
• The card is essential for
the Face Mapping®
procedure
• Expectations and
concerns are addressed
the consultation card
your health
1. Within the last year, have you been under a
dermatologist or other physician’s care?
2. Within the last 9 months, have you undergone any
surgery? If yes please specify
___________________________________
3. Have you had any health problems in the past or
present? If yes please specify
___________________________________
4. List any medications, supplements, vitamins,
diuretics, slimming tablets etc. that you take
regularly ___________________________________
5. Do you smoke?
the consultation card
your health
6. Do you exercise regularly?
7. Do you follow a restricted diet?
8. Do you wear contact lenses?
9. Do you have metal implants or pacemaker?
10.Rate your own level of stress on a scale of 1
to 4 (1 = low stress, 4 = high stress).
_________________________________
the consultation card
your skin
11. Do you have any special skin problems pertaining
to your face or body? If yes, please specify
__________________
12. What skin care products are you currently using?
face: soap cleanser toner moisturizer
masque exfoliator eye products
body: soap shower gel scrubs oil body
moisturizer depilatory products
self tanners
the consultation card
exfoliation history
13. Have you ever had microdermabrasion, chemical
peels or any resurfacing treatments?
14. Do you use Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene
or any other prescription skin products?
15. Are you currently using any products that contain
the following ingredients:
 glycolic acid  lactic acid  any exfoliating
scrub
any hydroxy acid product
 vitamin A derivatives (i.e. retinol)
the consultation card
moisture hydration
16. How much plain water do you consume
daily?_____________
17. How many alcoholic beverages do you consume
weekly? ___________________
18. Do you ever experience these conditions on your
skin?
 flakiness  tightness  obvious dryness
19. What SPF sunscreen do you use on your face?
_____
body? _______
20. Do you sunbathe or use tanning beds?
 yes  no
the consultation card
capillary activity
21. Do you burn easily in moderate sunlight?
22. Do you blush easily when nervous?
23. Do you have a tendency to redness?
24. Do you suffer from sinus problems?
oil secretion
25. Do you ever experience oily shine during
the day?
26. Do you ever experience skin breakouts?
the consultation card
nerve activity
27. Do you drink more than 4 caffeinated beverages daily?
(coffee, tea, soft drinks)
28. Do you ever experience a burning, itching sensation on
your skin?
29. What is your pain threshold?
 low  medium  high
30. Have you ever experienced claustrophobia?
31. What type of massage pressure do you prefer
 light  medium  firm
32. Have your ever had a reaction to any the following?
 cosmetics medicine iodine  pollen  food 
animals
 hydroxy acids  fragrance  sunscreens
other___________________
the consultation card
female clients only
33. Are you taking oral contraception?
34. Are you pregnant or trying to become
pregnant?
35. Are you lactating?
male clients only
36. What is your current shaving system?
37. Do you experience irritation from shaving?
38. Do you experience ingrown hairs?
the consultation card
questions to discuss every visit
39. Are you currently having or due for
your menstrual period?
40. Have your started any new
medication since your last visit?
41. Have you had any recent dental x-rays?
42. What are your skin care goals?
treatment/product record
date
treatment/products used in
treatment/contraindications/notes
samples given
therapist
skin analysis
let’s look at…
skin types vs. skin conditions
contra-indications
– Herpes Simplex
– Impetigo
– Infected Acne
– Malignant melanoma
– Allergic reaction
– Cuts/abrasions
– Open skin/bruises
feedback
• What are some of the characteristics of
the professional treatment room?
• How important is the consultation card to
the success of the treatment?
• Review pages 166 -170 “the book”
understanding the skin treatment
segment
2
school
program
Segment 1
preview-the skin treatment
• Each step in the treatment is unique
and needs to be mastered
• We will start out with an overview of
each step and continue to expand on
them as we progress in the course
room set up - preparation
•
•
•
•
First Impressions
Warm and inviting
atmosphere
Supplies and equipment
in working order and on
hand
Cabinets clean and
organized
Freshly laundered
bedding, towels, and
client garments
consultation
• Get to know your client
and their concerns about
their skin
• Ascertain medical
background
• Review client’s current
home regimen
• Prescribe effective skin
care treatment and home
care
preparation
• Eye and lip cleanse is performed with a
mild cleanser for the delicate eye area
• 3 small dampened cotton pads to apply
and remove product
• Rinse with damp sponges or warm
steam towel
cleanse
• Cleanse twice
– First, to remove makeup
– Second, oils and surface
debris
• Clean water is used for
each cleanse
– You may choose to use a
different cleanser once
you have removed client’s
makeup
skin analysis
• To confirm visual
observation – you will
use:
• Face Mapping ® skin
analysis technique
• Magnifying Lamp or
headset
• Wood’s Lamp
(if available)
• Your touch; feel for
congestion, hot spots,
texture, oiliness, etc.
exfoliation
• To remove dead cells and increase cell
turnover
• You have options – condition of client’s
skin determines your choice
– Enzymes – all skin conditions
– Abrasive scrub – normal/combination
– Hydroxy acids – normal, oily, congested,
sluggish or
underactive skin conditions
– Hydroxy acid/vitamin combination – dry, sun
damaged,
underactive skin conditions
extractions
• Performed on oily, congested,
acne prone skin
– Steam – to aid in deep cleansing
– Desincrustation – to undo
blockages, using galvanic current
on – negative pole
– Vacuum suction, galvanic and
high frequency – to soften and
prepare skin for extraction
procedure
massage
• The massage technique
used is based on client’s
skin condition and needs
– Standard massage using
effleurage, petrissage,
tapotement and friction
– Dermalogica pressure point
massage
concentrates
• Concentrates, complexes and serums contain ingredients
to treat underlying skin conditions such as:
– Oily/acne-algae, zinc
– Dehydrated-glycolipids, hyaluronic acid
– Aging skin/pigmentation- licorice, green tea, vitamin C
– Sensitized skin-fumatory extract, lemon extract,
coneflower
• Applied under the masque and before moisturizer
• Iontophoresis – on the + positive pole to aid in penetration
• Pulverized into the skin – Dr. Lucas
masque
• To calm, hydrate,
nourish and treat
superficial
dehydration
– Setting – clay base
– Non-setting – cream or
gel
– Specialty – paraffin
wax, colloidal oatmeal
tone
• To rinse, condition, even out porosity
of skin
– Pressure spray – from your skin care
machine
– Spritz - manual
– Dr. Lucas Pulverizer/Eco Spray –
electric or portable emits fine spray to
calm and hydrate client’s skin
boosters
• Boosters (retail) deliver daily
treatment for client’s underlying skin
conditions
– Improve level of hydration
– Protect barrier function
– Slow down aging process
– Improve fine lines and wrinkles
– Sun protection
moisturize/sunscreen
• Moisturizers seal and protect the skin’s
natural moisture and are chosen
according to skin condition or skin type
– Oil-free, oil based, oil controlling, humectant
and anhydrous
– Sunscreens contain chemical and/or
physical ingredients to protect face and
body
review
• How many times do we cleanse the
client’s skin and for what purpose?
• What concept or tools do we use to
determine the type of ingredients we
should use within the treatment?
• What type of skin requires the use of a
clay based setting masque?
dermalogica live!
professional use only
segment
3
school
program
Segment 1
retail and professional
• Cleansers: 32 ounces
• PreCleanse: 16oz
• Exfoliants/Toners
─Skin Prep Scrub, Daily Microfoliant: 6oz
─Multi-Active Toner : 16oz
─Antioxidant HydraMist and
─ Ultracalming™ Mist: 12oz
• Masque
─Intensive Moisture Masque and MultiVitamin
Power Recovery® Masque: 6oz
• Moisturizers: 4oz or 6oz
the importance of
cleansing
• The basis of skin perfection and the skin care
treatment is thorough cleansing. The skin
must be cleansed thoroughly without
overstimulation or disruption of the natural
acid mantle.
• A successful cleansing routine must remove
all the tinted make-up and debris from the
skin’s surface, and gently remove dead cells.
• Ingredients should be formulated to
effectively cleanse and purify, be nonstripping, water-soluble, easy to rinse, leaving
the skin smooth and refreshed.
what happens when skin is
cleansed?
precleanse and the
dermalogica double cleanse
• A light weight plant based cleansing oil
• Dissolves surface oils and debris, emulsifies
with water, rinses away oil and water soluble
grime
• Effectively removes oils, sunscreens, pollutants
and cosmetics; gentle enough to remove eye
make-up
• Great for oily and sensitized skin
• Will not disrupt barrier lipids
– Professional size: 16 oz.
dermalogica cleansers
• Dermal Clay Cleanser – Contains
oil-absorbing ingredients for oily,
congested skin conditions
• Special Cleansing Gel – A foaming
gel cleanser formulated for all skin
conditions
• Essential Cleansing Solution – A
milky creamy solution formulated for
dry to ultra dry skin conditions
• Professional size: 32 oz.
dermalogica cleansers
Specialty cleansers
• Ultra Calming™ Cleanser – Gentle cleansing gel-cream for
extremely sensitive or sensitized skin conditions
• Clearing Skin Wash – Foaming antibacterial wash for acneic
skin conditions
• Skin Resurfacing Cleanser – A dual-action cleanser that
smoothes and retexturizes
• Tri-Active Cleanse – a triple action concentrated cleanser for
hyperpigmented and uneven skin tones
*Professional size: 16 oz.
• Soothing Eye Make-up Remover* – An oil and alcohol free
gentle cleanser to remove makeup – all skin conditions
*Professional size: 8 oz.
tone
• MultiActive Toner – An ultra light hydrating
spritz for all skin conditions
• Ultra Calming™ Mist – An ultra calming
spray that desensitizes while easing
redness and stinging.
*Professional size: 16oz.
• Antioxidant HydraMist – A refreshing
antioxidant shield with flash-firming
properties
*Professional size: 12oz.
what we’ll explore next
•
•
•
•
•
Exfoliation choices
Extraction mediums
Massage mediums
Customization
Masque therapy
professional
exfoliation
Biologically active exfoliants to smooth,
refine and prepare the skin for
absorption
exfoliation
•
•
•
•
•
The process of removing excess dead
cells
Allows for better penetration of treatment
ingredients
Encourages new cell growth
An exfoliant is the medium used to
smooth and even texture of the skin
May be physical or chemical
exfoliation
•
•
•
•
•
All skin conditions
Acne
Dehydration
Aging Skin
Pigmentation
safety steps: contraindications and
precautions
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Signed consultation is critical & always face map
Lipid barrier must be intact – look for signs such as recent colds,
caffeine, sensitivity, travel, low fat diets, exfoliation products at home.
Check history of resurfacing treatments, chemical peels, etc
Do not exfoliate highly sensitized, broken, injured, sunburned or
recently waxed skin (24 hours)
Prevent problems arising- can patch test
Do not use on any clients who are taking Isotretinoin or have taken it
in the past 6 months
Do not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova, Adapalene, Epiduo or
any other medically prescribed topical acne products, they need to
discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeks
Never leave a client unattended and always remove thoroughly!
Always apply and prescribe a sunscreen! No sun exposure for a week
dermalogica professional
exfoliants
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Skin Prep Scrub
Daily Microfoliant®
Daily Resurfacer
Skin Exfoliant System
MultiVitamin Power
Exfoliant
6. Exfoliant Accelerator 35
dermalogica exfoliants
Professional and Retail
• Skin Prep Scrub –
A skin polishing scrub exfoliant for all skin
conditions
• Daily Microfoliant® –
A rice based enzyme powder gently
microfoliates skin surface, for all skin
conditions
─ Professional size: 6 oz.
*Except clients who have been using Retin A or Accutane.
daily resurfacer
Features
Salicylic acid, sugar cane, hibiscus fruit extracts
and bacillus ferment,
Hyaluronic acid, rooibos tea and green tea
Brightening complex: citrus unshiu peel and rice
bran extract
Benefits
Gentle enough to use throughout the treatment to
resurface, degrease and brighten the skin
How to Use
all skin conditions
skin exfoliant system
Features
Enzymatic Base, Part A (powder base)
Papain and bromelain enzymes
Acidic Activator, Part B (liquid portion)
Lactic and salicylic acid, sulfur
Benefits
Non abrasive self neutralizing, professional
strength exfoliation, 3 multipurpose ways
to use!
How to Use
breakout-prone or skin with
excess oil production
part of the
MediBac
Clearing® line
multiVitamin power exfoliant
Features
Fruit, vegetable and flower oil base
Retinol, lactic acid and 15% salicylic acid
Oil-soluble form of vitamin C
Bioactivity score = 25
Benefits
Maximum strength exfoliant in a lipid base,
delivered in a single dose and re-sealable
capsule. Achieves visible results on the skin.
How To Use
dry, sun-damaged or
prematurely-aging
part of the
AGE Smart®
line
exfoliant accelerator 35
Features
Lactic acid (30% @ pH 3.2)
Papaya juice (carica papaya) enzymes
Olive leaf (olea europaea) extract
Bacillus ferment
Benefits
Provides intense active exfoliation when
used alone or use to customize other
Dermalogica chemical exfoliants
thick coarse sun damaged
skin
how to safely use
Customize by mixing with other Dermalogica
chemical exfoliants:
– Daily Microfoliant®
– Skin Exfoliant System
+ ¾ tsp.
pumps EA35
- ½ tsp + 1 pump EA35
- 1 scoop Enzymatic Base
Acidic Activator + 3
– MultiVitamin Power Exfoliant - 1 applicator MultiVitamin
Power Exfoliant + 1
pump EA35
Or use Exfoliant Accelerator 35 alone
caution!
• Do not apply to highly sensitized, broken,
injured, sun burned or recently waxed skin (24
hours)
• Do not use on any clients who are taking
Accutane or have taken it in the past 6 months
• Do not use on clients who use Retin-A, Renova,
Adapalene, Tazorac or any other medically
prescribed exfoliating products, they need to
discontinue use for at least 2-4 weeks
Questions?
• Let’s recap:
– Which skin conditions benefit from
exfoliation?
– Name 2 contraindications to professional
exfoliation?
– What are the steps for removing MultiVitamin
Power Exfoliant?
– Which Dermalogica exfoliants are retail and
professional use?
extraction mediums
Pre and post-solutions
to provide the most
hygienic and effective
manual extraction
technique
scaling fluid
Features
Natural herbal base of watercress, burdock,
lemon, sage and ivy, saponaria officinalis,
sodium salts
Benefits
Desincrustation solution that can be used
in numerous ways to soften impacted
sebum for easier hygienic extractions
How to Use
congested skin, prone
to comedones
extractions
right vs. wrong!!!
post extraction solution
Features
Salicylic Acid 0.5%, tea tree,
centipeda cunninghamii, licorice,
panthenol, alginated zinc triplex
Benefits
Decongests the follicle, reduces sebum
production helps eliminates p. acnes
While promoting healing and reducing
inflammation
How To Use
congested skin, prone
to comedones
recap
• What ingredients are used to prepare
the skin for extractions?
• Can you use the scaling fluid without
galvanic current? If you use galvanic, what
polarity would you use and what is it
called?
• What are the benefits of using the Post
Extraction Solution after performing
extractions?
massage
1 Massage Cream
1 Oil Free Massage
3 Additives
3 Botanical Mixers to
customize your
treatment
= 8 choices!
massage cream
Features
Essential fatty acids, mallow, ivy,
sambucus, cucumber and arnica
Benefits
Water-soluble, creamy formula melts, and
liquefies on contact. Ideal for European
massage
How to Use
normal to dry skin
conditions
additives
Features
Base of Hazelnut, Avocado, Wheatgerm Oil
3 types:
1. Revitalizing
2. Clearing
3. Soothing
Benefits
Blend of essential oils that detoxify,
oxygenate and hydrate the skin can be used
for Aromatherapy and lymph drainage
all skin conditions
massage techniques
How To Use
oil free massage
Features
Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast,
panthenol, caffeine, licorice, sarcosine,
camphor
Benefits
A silky water-soluble, oil-free lavender
flower massage medium that purifies &
calms
How To Use
excess oil or breakouts
Part of the
MediBac
Clearing® line
hydroessential botanical
mixers
Features
Floral water base with hydroessential
blends
3 types:
1. Calming
2. Purifying
3. Replenishing
Benefits
Powerful water-soluble, aromatherapy
blends, to enhance performance and
customize almost all treatment products
How To Use
all skin conditions
recap
• How many choices do we have for
massage?
• List all of the Dermalogica massage
mediums
• Which Dermalogica massage medium is
most suited for European massage
techniques?
• What do we mean by water soluble?
• What are the properties of essential oils?
complexes
Benefits
Concentrated highly active professional-use-only treatment
products to treat underlying problems, correct skin concerns
& intensify results
4 choices - part of the skin concern segments, MediBac
Clearing®,
AGE Smart®, ChromaWhite TRX® , UltraCalmingTM
How to Use
•
•
•
•
•
Apply under treatment masques and moisturizers
Mix into some key products
Pulverize onto the skin
Ionize with galvanic current on the positive polarity
Use with pressure point massage
mediBac clearing® complex
Features
A concentrated acne fighting professional
serum to address the 4 factors of acne
• Salicylic acid exfoliates and clears
impaction plugs
• Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast,
panthenol & caffeine regulate sebum
• Comfrey & licorice soothe irritated skin
• Nordihydroguaiaretic acid slows cell
proliferation
acneic and breakout
prone
• Zinc gluconate and caffeine inhibit bacteria
AGE Smart® complex
Features
A concentrated power rich professional
serum to help reverse signs of aging
– Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide fight
AGEs
– Soy & White Tea inhibit (ROS, MMPs
and AGEs)
– Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide
and Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 stimulate
collagen and elastin synthesis
– Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
stimulates wound healing, collagen
and oxygen utilization
mature or
prematurely-aging
ChromaWhite TRx® complex
Features
A concentrated brightening professional serum
to correct and control uneven pigmentation
• Oligopeptide inhibits melanogenesis
• Niacinamide inhibits transfer of
melanosomes
• Zinc glycinate inhibits melanogenesis
• Ferula foetida root extract slows enzyme
activity
• Phytic acid chelates Cu++
• Palmaria palmata inhibits messenger protein
that triggers melanogenesis
• Lactobacillus enzymes stimulate natural
exfoliation
hyperpigmented
skin
UltraCalming™ complex
Features
Highly concentrated treatment serum to
relieve sensitive, redness, itching and burning,
it continues to work after the professional
treatment
• UltraCalming™ Complex reduces
sensitivity, redness, and irritation
• Saccharomyces lysate extract repairs
inflamed tissues
• Caffeine reduces redness
• Panthenol (pro-vitamin B5) aids skin repair
• Sodium hyaluronate (hyaluronic acid) and
sensitized,
hydrolyzed glycosaminoglycans maintain reactive and
proper hydration levels of skin
professional masques
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Plankton Masque Base
Colloidal Masque Base
MultiVitamin Power Recovery® Masque
Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal
Contour Masque
MediBac Clearing® Masque System
*Don’t forget! 6 oz. Intensive Moisture Masque
masque therapy
Plankton Masque Base
Features
Colloidal Masque Base
Alginates from bladderwrack
and marine plankton,
bentonite and kaolin,
grapefruit, zinc oxide,
bisabolol, vitamin E
Hyaluronic acid, mallow, ivy,
cucumber, vitamins A and E,
orange, sambucus, arnica and
allantoin
Benefits
Cooling, hydrating, antiinflammatory multipurpose
masque that be used on eyes
and lips
Balances sebum, purifying,
detoxifying and deep
cleansing clay formula
removes dead skin cell debris
and absorbs excess oil
Features
Benefits
How To Use
multivitamin power recovery®
masque
Features
Beta glucan & algae extract, Essential fatty
acids
vitamins A,C,E and B5, Licorice, comfrey
and burdock
Benefits
A powerful antioxidant masque to help skin
recover from damage. Reduces
inflammation, helps promote collagen and
elastin production while promoting tissue
repair
How To Use
mature or
prematurely-aging
clinical colloidal oatmeal
Features
Pharmaceutical grade Colloidal Oatmeal
Benefits
A super soothing, calming masque that helps
boost the immune function of ultra sensitive
skin. Relieves itching associated with
eczema, helps to soothe skin rashes and
irritation and can be used on eyes and lips.
How To Use
sensitized, reactive
and recently
resurfaced skin
contour masque
Features
Diatomaceous earth, calcium sulfate,
grapefruit oil and algin
Benefits
Setting masque, cooling & calming,
reduces edema, infuses underlying
product, firming, diatomaceous earth
How to Use
sensitized, mature or
prematurely-aging
mediBac clearing® masque
Features
• Salicylic acid removes impaction plugs
• Sulfur kills bacteria
• Activated charcoal adsorbs excess oils and
impurities
• Clays & diatomaceous earth absorb excess sebum
• Niacinamide, horse chestnut, yeast, panthenol
& caffeine regulate sebum
• Licorice and panthenol soothe skin & aid in healing
• Tea tree leaf oil and camphor are kill bacteria
Benefits
A two part medicated treatment masque that clears
acneic, prone to
bacteria, reduces excess sebum & calms skin
breakout
so let’s recap…
•
•
•
•
•
Exfoliation choices
Extraction mediums
Massage mediums
Customization
Masque therapy
tone, treat and protect
Tone: Spritz, Dr. Lucas Pulverizer, Eco Spray
–
–
–
–
–
Multi-Active Toner
UltraCalmingTM Mist
Antioxidant HydraMist
Complexes
Botanical Mixers
Treat: Complexes, Boosters, introduce specialized
retail products, eye care
• MultiVitamin Power Firm
Protect:
• Professional size moisturizers,
• Solar Defense Booster SPF30
questions?
The dermalogica skin treatment
segment
4
school
program
Segment 1
•
the dermalogica skin
treatment
This treatment forms the foundation of
Dermalogica’s selection of services
• It is customized at every step by the skin care
therapist based on the Face Mapping® skin
analysis
• You will be using the Face Mapping® skin analysis
Consultation card to check for any skin or medical
conditions that might contraindicate a product
selection
• The Face Mapping® skin analysis Prescription
Sheet is used to prescribe a customized
Dermalogica home care regimen for your client
face
®
mapping
skin analysis
and consultation
Step 1
• Complete the card 15 minutes before
treatment time
• Client signature is critical
– The card is essential for the Face Mapping® skin
analysis procedure
– Expectations and concerns are addressed
cleanse eyes and lips
Step 2
Prepare damp cotton pads to cleanse lip and eye
area
Soothing Eye Make-up Remover
• Gentle cleansing, oil and alcohol free, conditions
lashes
PreCleanse
• For waterproof and resistant makeup
cleanse
Step 3
The dermalogica double cleanse which begins with
PreCleanse
• a lightweight plant-based cleansing oil
• Dissolves surface oils and debris then
emulsifies when water is added to rinse away
oil and water soluble grime
cleanse
Step 4
Perform the second cleanse with the appropriate
Dermalogica cleanser for your client.
– Ultra Calming™ Cleanser, Essential Cleansing
Solution, Special Cleansing Gel, Dermal Clay
Cleanser or Medibac Clearing® Skin Wash
• These can also be customized with Dermalogica
Botanical Mixers.
– Calming Botanical Mixer, Purifying Botanical
Mixer and Replenishing Botanical Mixer,
depending on client’s skin condition
cleanse
Step 5
Remove all traces of
cleanser with a warm
steam towel, sponges or
damp cotton pads,
customizing your rinsing
water with a Botanical
Mixer.
Step 6
A thorough skin analysis will
aid you
in customizing the treatment
and link
directly to the prescription
• Apply eye pads and use
your magnifying lamp
• Don’t be afraid to question
and share your findings with
the client
exfoliation
Step 7
Select the correct Dermalogica Professional
Exfoliant
– Daily Microfoliant®, Skin Prep Scrub (can be mixed
with cleanser) Skin Exfoliant System, MultiVitamin
Power Exfoliant System or EA35
– You may also choose to add mechanical brush
cleansing to this step. For extra deep cleansing
use with Skin Prep Scrub (mixed with a cleanser)
or Daily Microfoliant®
extractions
Step 8
Scaling Fluid – whip up a small amount to a light foam
using
a dry masque brush and apply to congested areas under
steam for 10 minutes
– Carefully perform extractions, remove product with
damp cotton pads or sponges
– Apply small amount of Post Extraction Solution to
cotton and wipe over the extracted area (if performing
high frequency, use before applying Post Extraction
Solution)
massage
Step 9
Perform classic massage or Dermalogica
pressure
point massage using a massage medium
customized
for the client
– Oil based system- Massage Cream, Soothing
Additive, Clearing Additive or Revitalizing Additive
– Serums – UltraCalming™ Complex, MediBac
Clearing® Complex, and AGE smart® Complex
massage
Step 9 continued…
• Oil free massage - a silky water
soluble medium that purifies
and calms – customize with
• Hydroessential botanical
mixers -powerful water-soluble,
aromatherapy blends: calming,
purifying and replenishing
serum application
Step 10
Serums, complexes or concentrates correct and treat
underlying skin conditions
─ UltraCalming™ Serum Concentrate, MediBac
Clearing® Complex, AGE smart® Complex and
ChromaWhite TRx Complex
Serums may be used in combination with galvanic (+)
current, under a masque or moisturizer
masque
Step 11
Apply the appropriate Dermalogica masque
─Colloidal Base Masque, Intensive Moisture
Masque, Plankton Masque Base, Multivitamin
Power Recovery® Masque, MediBac Clearing®
Masque System, Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal
Masque, or Contour Masque
─Remove after 10-15 minutes (allow an extra 10
minutes for a setting masque); Contour or the
Clinical Colloidal Oatmeal masque
Note: While masque is on fill in Face Mapping® skin
analysis Prescription Sheet
tone/concentrated boosters
Step 12
Step 13
Spritz the client’s skin
with:
Choose from a
professional
serum or retail booster
– Extra Firming
Booster
– Skin Hydrating
Booster
– Special Clearing
Booster
– Gentle Soothing
─Multi-Active Toner
or UltraCalming™
Mist
moisturize/eye care
Step 14
Step 15
Apply suitable
Dermalogica
moisturizer
Extra care is needed to
protect the delicate
area around the eye
–
–
–
–
Active Moist
Oil Control Lotion
Skin Smoothing Cream
Intensive Moisture
Balance
– Super Rich Repair
– Sheer Tint Moisture
SPF15
– Total Eye Care
SPF15
– Intensive Eye Repair
– Multivitamin Power
Firm
– Age Reversal Eye
Complex
daylight defense
Step 16
Apply appropriate sun protection from
Dermalogica’s
Daylight Defense System:
–
–
–
–
Solar Defense Booster spf30
Oil Free Matte Block spf20
Super Sensitive FaceBlock spf30
Extra Rich FaceBlock spf30
complete the face mapping® skin
analysis prescription sheet and
present to your client
• Once client is dressed, meet them at the tester
unit and present your prescription for a
customized home care program
– Hand the client a mirror as you talk through so they
may look at their skin!
– Follow through with every client regardless of whether
they chose to purchase at that time
– Give the client the original prescription and staple the
copy to the consultation card for future reference
– Book the follow-up appointment!
demonstration and workshop
• During your hands on practical you have handy
guides to reference until you become confident
in your Dermalogica techniques and product
knowledge
– The Skin Treatment “cheat sheet”
– The Face Mapping® skin analysis “cheat
sheet”
– The Product “cheat sheet”
Note: They can be found in the back of your Dermalogica
training manual – “the book”
live!
retail segment
5
school
program
Segment 1
class content
Overview: Concepts and
the
Grey Line
• Face Mapping® skin
analysis
• Skin types and conditions
• Cleansers
• Exfoliants
• Masques
• Toners
• Concentrated boosters
• Targeted treatments
Segmentation lines:
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Daylight Defense
system
MediBac Clearing®
AGE Smart®
Dermalogica Shave
ChromaWhite TRx®
UltraCalmingTM
Body therapy
• Designed by The International
Dermal Institute to use exclusively
with Dermalogica products and
The Dermalogica Skin Treatment
• User-friendly skin analysis for
correct product prescription
• 14 different zones covering the
face, neck and chest
skin type vs. skin condition
Genetically determined,
measured by the oil in
the skin or reactivity
Caused by external
factors, internal influence
like hormones, diet,
lifestyle, stress, etc.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Normal/combination
Alipoid
Oily
Acne
Sensitive/Rosacea
Dehydration
Sensitized
Aging/premature
Pigmentation
Congestion/breakouts
let’s map!
Map your findings: skin
condition
b = breakout activity
c = comedones
d = dilated capillaries
dh = dehydration
m = milia
p = pigmentation
fl = fine lines
dl = deep lines
s = sensitivity
dermalogica
cleansers
All dermalogica cleansers are soap-free, completely
water-soluble and acid balanced to purify thoroughly
without stripping the skin's natural barrier lipids
soothing eye make-up remover
• gently cleansing, oil and S.D. alcohol free.
Conditions lashes
Benefits
Oil free, will not sting eyes or leave oily residue
– gentle and cooling and is ideal for contact
lens wearers. Conditions and strengthens eye
lashes
all skin conditions
pre-cleanser
• PreCleanse - A light-weight plantbased cleansing oil
• Dissolves surface oils and debris
then emulsifies when water is added
to rinse away oil and water-soluble
grime
• Gentle enough to remove eye makeup; effectively removes oils,
sunscreens, pollutants and
cosmetics
• Will not disrupt barrier lipids
all skin conditions
(great for oily and sensitized skin)
cleansing
•
•
•
•
•
Dermal Clay Cleanser
Special Cleansing Gel
Essential Cleansing Solution
UltraCalming Cleanser
The Sponge Cloth
recap
• Which Dermalogica cleanser contains purifying
clays to help balance an oily skin type?
• Which cleanser is used as the first step of the 2part Dermalogica Double Cleanse?
• Essential Cleansing Solution contains
moisturizing and stimulating ingredients, who
should use this cleanser?
• Name three key benefits of Dermalogica
cleansers.
• Fill in on your prescription sheet which cleanser
you will use.
exfoliants
Dermalogica exfoliants prepare for optimum moisture
absorption by aiding in cell renewal, smoothing and
refining the skin’s surface
dermalogica exfoliants
• Gentle Cream Exfoliant
– hydroxy acid exfoliant
masque
*all skin conditions
• Skin Prep Scrub – a
gently abrasive
exfoliant
*all skin conditions
*except Retin A and Accutane
users
• Exfoliating Face Brush
– ultra-gentle brush
works with your
Dermalogica Cleanser
to gently exfoliate
dulling surface debris
and impurities
dermalogica exfoliants
Daily Microfoliant®
• A daily microfoliator and skin
brightener
*all skin conditions
Daily Resurfacer
• Resurfaces and smoothes skin
surface as it stimulates the
exfoliation of cells
*all skin conditions
*Except users of Retin A and Accutane
review of exfoliants
• Which Dermalogica leave-on exfoliant
stimulates cell turnover and smoothes
the skin surface?
• Which Dermalogica exfoliant contains
corn cob meal?
• Name two key ingredients in Daily
®
Microfoliant.
• Which one did you choose for your
program?
dermalogica masques
Regular use of treatment masques greatly enhances a daily
regimen by providing extra nourishment, refinement and
revitalization to the skin, solving specific problems to leave
the skin radiantly healthy
masques
• Skin Hydrating Masque –
all skin conditions, dehydrated
• Bitter Orange, Cucumber, Mallow and Arnica
• Skin Refining Masque –
oily and acne-prone skin conditions
• Bentonite, Kaolin, Menthol and Zinc
•
Intensive Moisture Masque –
oil dry skins
• E.F.A.’s, Honey, Gingko Biloba, Safflower,
Orange and Evening Primrose Oil
multi-active toner
–
A soothing and refreshing, hydrating spritz
– Contains lavender, sodium PCA, aloe vera and
balm mint
– Helps prepare skin for other Dermalogica
products, helps even out porosity for optimal
moisture absorption
all skin conditions
concentrated
boosters
Dermalogica's
boosters are highly
active concentrates
to target specific
skin concerns
dermalogica boosters
Gentle Soothing Booster
Skin Hydrating Booster
• An oil-free treatment of
ultra soothing botanicals
sensitized & irritated skin
•
Extra Firming Booster
• Super concentrated
firming fluid
skin with fine, dry lines
Skin Renewal Booster
• An exfoliating complex of
hydroxy acids
all skin conditions –
except users of Retin A
and Accutane
A super hydrating fluid
that hydrates and
smoothes
dry, alipoid skin
conditions
targeted
treatments
Targeted treatments perform a variety of "problem
solving" with their highly specialized formulations,
completing every skin care regimen by targeting areas
that require a little extra attention
climate control
• Protects skin against damage from
reactive ozone, protects skin from
dehydration
• Medium weight formula that
reduces inflammation and redness.
• Anti-Ozonate Complex, Superoxide
Dismutase, Shea Butter and
Bisabolol.
dry, sensitized & irritated skin,
impaired barrier function and
athletes(swimmers, snowboarders etc.)
eye treatments
Dermalogica eye treatments focus on moisturizing and
replenishing critical oils around the eyes, helping to
hydrate, restore firmness, retexturize, and protect against
further environmental damage
• total eye care spf15
Reduces fine lines and puffiness, hides
dark circles, physical sunblock spf15
• intensive eye repair
Ultra-rich nourishment, repairs and
protects against free radicals
moisturizer
s
Dermalogica's moisturizers contain powerful plant
extracts, essential oils and antioxidant vitamins to
hydrate, repair and protect the skin against the drying
effects of environmental exposure, pollution and stress
moisturizers
Active Moist
Oily
Skin Smoothing Cream
Normal/Dry
Intensive Moisture Balance
Dry
Sheer Tint Moisture SPF15
Any Skin
Condition
Sheer Moisture SPF15
Any Skin
Condition
Sheer tint Redness Relief SPF15
Visible Redness
daylight defense system
daylight defense
• Oil Free Matte Block SPF20
• provides matte finish while
protecting
• Super Sensitive FaceBlock
SPF30
• soothe and protect
• ExtraRich FaceBlock SPF30
• nourish and protect
• Ultra Sensitive FaceBlock SPF25
• tinted super emollient
• Solar Defense Booster SPF30
• ultimate customization
• MultiVitamin BodyBlock
SPF20
• treat and protect the body
• WaterBlock Solar Spray SPF30
• water resistant protection,
kids and athletes
• Solar Defense Wipes SPF15
• portable, versatile
towelettes
• Solar Shield SPF15
• waterproof protection in a
stick, lips, ears and nose
• After Sun Repair
• treatment balm to repair
sunburned skin
review
• Should everyone use a moisturizer?
• What is the purpose?
• Which moisturizer is oil-free and
recommended for men, teenagers and as
a sports moisturizer?
• Which Dermalogica gray line moisturizer
contains a sun screen?
Fill out your home care
program
• Morning
–
–
–
–
–
–
Cleanser
Toner
Booster
Moisturizer
Eye treatment
Sun Protection
• Evening
–
–
–
–
–
–
Cleanser
Exfoliant
Masque
Toner
Moisturizer
(other)
mediBac clearing
TM
designed to be layered onto the skin for
maximum results…. 24 hours a day a
complete professional & retail system
mediBac clearing®
retail products
mediBac clearing®
designed to be layered onto the skin for
maximum results…. 24 hours a day a
complete professional & retail system
mediBac
®
clearing
• Clearing Skin Wash
Foaming cleanser to clear away
excess oil without stripping the skin
Salicylic Acid, Licorice, Calendula,
TeaTree,
Golden Seal, Camphor and Menthol
• Skin Purifying Wipes
Hygienic, quick cleansing wipes that
purify and remove excess oil
Balm Mint, Coneflower, Camphor, Witch
Hazel and Salicylic Acid
mediBac
®
clearing
• Sebum Clearing Masque
A cooling, refining masque that purifies
and helps prevent breakouts
Salicylic Acid, Niacinamide, Yeast Extract,
Spiraea Ulmaria and Sarcosine
• Clearing Mattifier
An anhydrous treatment that absorbs
oil, clears breakouts and maintains an
all-day matte finish
2% Salicylic Acid, Cinnamon Bark Extract,
Enantia Bark, Retinyl Palmitate and Grape
Seed Extract.
mediBac
®
clearing
• Oil Control Lotion
Feather-light lotion to absorb oil and
help combat shine to maintain an all-day
matte finish
Microsponges, Hyssopus, Zinc Gluconate,
Niacinamide, Caffeine and Salicylic Acid
• Concealing Spot Treatment
An intense spot treatment that works to
conceal, treat and clear breakouts
Sulfur, Zinc Oxide and carob seed extract
mediBac clearing®
• Overnight Clearing Gel
An overnight treatment gel that clears
skin, calms inflammation and prevents
future breakout
2% Salicylic Acid, Tea Tree, Niacinamide,
Hyaluronic Acid and Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid
• Special Clearing Booster
A topical treatment for breakouts that
helps to heal the lesion and kill bacteria
5% Benzoyl Peroxide, Ivy, Sage, Watercress,
Calendula and Cornflower
AGE Smart®
a state-of-the-art system of innovative products
designed to help prevent and correct physiological
and physical manifestations of aging skin
AGE Smart®
•
Skin Resurfacing Cleanser
• dual action 2-in-1 cleanses &
exfoliates
• Antioxidant HydraMist
• hydrates, antioxidant
protection and flash firming
action
• MultiVitamin Power
Recovery® Masque
• powerful recovery for stressed
skin while enhancing barrier
function
• MultiVitamin Power
Concentrate
• single dose capsule delivers
vitamins to repair and restore
• MAP-15 Regenerator®
• a unique powder to
emulsion delivers potent
vitamin C
• MultiVitamin Power Firm
• eye treatment to combat the
signs of aging and
protective silicones
• Age Reversal Eye Complex
• reverse and repair multiple
signs of aging with this
breakthrough highly
effective product
AGE
•
•
•
Super Rich Repair
• moisturize chronically dry,
prematurely aging skin
Power RichTM
• 3-in-1 to repair, renew and
restore
Dynamic Skin Recovery SPF30
• a lightweight daytime
moisturizer fights
• AGES (Advanced
Glycation End productS)
• ROS (Reactive Oxygen
Species)
• Regulates MMPs (Matrix
Metalloproteinases)
®
Smart
•
•
•
Renewal Lip Complex
• a lip treatment that repairs,
protects, moisturizes &
smoothes
MultiVitamin Thermafoliant®
• this powerful skin polisher
uses thermal technology to
refine skin texture while
targeting the internal causes
that lead to skin aging
MultiVitamin Hand and Nail
Treatment
• a dynamic hand cream with
a multipurpose ingredient
base
dermalogica SHAVE
shave
The dermalogica shave 3-step system offers a complete
regimen to deliver the closest shave possible and your
healthiest skin ever
dermalogica shave
• Clean Bar
• the performance of a
cleanser in a bar form
• Daily Clean Scrub
• dual-action exfoliating
cleanser
• Pre-Shave Guard
• softens the beard without
high-alkaline ingredients
• Soothing Shave Cream
• a super-close shave that
prevents aggravation
• Invigorating Shave Gel
• shaving gel that soothes,
cools and softens
• Close Shave Oil
• create an instant cushion
between skin and razor
• Post-Shave Balm
• reduce discomfort &
redness brought on by
shaving
• Daily Defense Block SPF15
• light-weight lotion
conditions,
defends against UV rays
ChromaWhite TRx®
When used morning and night, ChromaWhite
TRx® delivers synergistic, around-the-clock
treatment and prevention of hyperpigmentation
ChromaWhite TRx
• Tri-Active Cleanse
• exfoliates & preps skin
for absorption of
lightening ingredients
• Powerfoliant2®
• powerful liquid
exfoliation treatment
revealing a lighter skin
tone (2 x weekly)
• Extreme C
• concentrated powder
with enhanced
brighteners
®
• C-12 Concentrate
• brightening serum that
targets pigmentation
• Pure Light SPF30
• daily SPF protection to
defend against further
development of
pigmentation
• Pure Night
• treatment moisturizer
conditions, while
targeting pigmentation
T
UltraCalming
M
Multi-beneficiary and packed with key actives that fight
inflammation-induced redness and irritation to restore the
skin’s natural lipid composition for an overall soothing and
restorative treatment
UltraCalmingTM
• UltraCalmingTM Cleanser
•
•
•
UltraCalmingTM Serum Concentrate
• a super concentrated serum
• gentle sulfate free gel cream,
antidote for skin sensitivity
can be wiped away for skin
• Barrier Repair
that cannot tolerate water
• a unique anhydrous (waterless)
UltraCalmingTM Mist
moisturizer to reinforce the
protective barrier
• a soothing mist quickly
• Redness Relief SPF20
relieves sensitivity, used
• a 3-in-1 spf moisturizer that
when needed
neutralizes redness, defends
UltraCalmingTM Relief Masque
against inflammation and
• for enraged skin, flare ups,
protects
used in spot areas if
necessary
treatment foundation
The last step in skin care,
the first step in make-up.
Oil-free, water-based
formulas with natural Iron
Oxides provide flawless
coverage while
moisturizing and
protecting the skin
kits…the essential starter
it doesn’t stop at the face
•Body MappingSM
•Body Therapy
•Daily
Groomers
questions?
• Why is it important to prescribe home care
products to our clients?
• Do Dermalogica cleansers contain soap?
• What do boosters do?
• What are the differences between the grey
line and the segmented line?
Homework!
face mapping skin analysis ®
segment
6
school
program
Segment 1
what is face mapping® skin
analysis?
reading the skin and effectively
communicating to the client what
you discover and prescribing the
correct regimen
• Elevates the therapist
• Educates the client
• Links directly to the
prescription
• Cements trust & commitment
5 steps to great skin
• Step 1
Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis consultation
card
• Step 2
Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis
• Step 3
Dermalogica Face Mapping® skin analysis prescription
sheet
• Step 4
Present your findings
• Step 5
Close the sale
let’s review – the consultation
card
•
•
•
•
•
Your health
Your skin
Exfoliation history
Moisture hydration
Capillary activity
• Oil secretion
• Nerve activity
• Female clients
• Male clients
• Questions to discuss
every visit
face mapping® skin
analysis
Why it works
• Clients are time starved
but want more results
• Clients are information
hungry and savvier than
ever
• Clients are confused by a
crowded skin care
landscape
• Clients will invest in a
regimen that works
How to map
• Communicate the concept
• Put on the headset
• Introduce each zone to the
client
• Work methodically, touch
and feel the skin
• Explain what you see and
feel, educate the client and
ask questions about their
skin
what to look for?
Skin type
• Normal/combination
• Oil dry
• Oily
• Acne
• Sensitive/Rosacea
Skin condition
• Dehydration
• Sensitized
• Aging/premature
aging
• Pigmentation
• Congestion/breakouts
face
®
mapping
skin analysis
zones
face
®
mapping
skin analysis
zones
Map your findings:
b = Breakout activity
c = Comedone
d = Dilated capillaries
dh = Dehydration
m = Milia
p = Pigmentation
fl = Fine lines
dl = Deep lines
s = Sensitivity/redness
tools to work with
Analyze the skin with:
• Your eyes through the
magnifying lamp
• Your woods lamp/skin
scanner
• Your touch, feel for
congestion, hot spots,
texture, oiliness and
dryness
The Face Mapping® Skin Analysis
Prescription Sheet
the zones
• Zones 1 & 3 –
Forehead: possible
breakouts,
dehydration
• Zone 2 –
Nose: congestion,
redness, flakiness
• Zones 4 & 10 Ears: comedones,
sensitized skin
the zones
• Zones 5 & 9 –
Cheeks: sensitized
skin and hot spots,
milia
• Zones 6 & 8 –
Eye area: milia,
fine lines, dark
circles
the zones
• Zone 7 –
Upper lip area:
congestion and
comedones
• Zones 11 & 13 –
Jaw line area:
breakouts, under
surface congestion
the zones
• Zone 12 – Chin:
breakouts, microcomedones
• Zone 14 – Neck:
breakouts,
pigmentation
let’s play!
treatment protocols
segment
7
school
program
Segment 1
“owning” the treatment
In order to become great at
what
we do, we must ask
ourselves:
• How well am I doing?
• Do I feel confident as I work?
• What are my strengths
during the treatment?
• Am I following the protocol
for the core treatment?
good treatment or GREAT!!!
• Details, details, details…
–
–
–
–
–
–
Greeting
Face Mapping® Consultation Card
Amenities (before, during and after the service)
Addressing client concerns
Prescribing home regimen
Follow through with re-booking and
recommendations
learning tools
• The dermalogica core
treatment
– Laminated cheat sheet
– Laminated product cheat sheet
– Laminated face mapping® skin
analysis cheat sheet
treatments for
everyone
let’s look at our choices
• AGE smart® Treatment– clients with signs of
aging, dry or sun damage
• MediBac Clearing® Treatment – acne
management targeting adult breakouts and
prevention
• UltraCalming™ Skin Treatment – sensitive and
environmentally sensitized skin conditions
many choices
• ChromaWhite TRx® – balancing areas
of uneven pigmentation
• Men’s Skin Care Treatment- specific
concerns of the male client
• 20 - Minute Express Treatment
(MicroZoneSM Treatments)
skin bar®
• Free Face Mapping® skin analysis and
clients’ get to “play” with the product!
retail support
segment
8
school
program
Segment 1
completing the Face Mapping®
skin analysis & presenting to
your client
the retail experience made easy!
setting goals for
prescription retailing
• What is the role of the skin care therapist?
• What does the client expect? Results!
• Benefits for the therapist? Steady clients
and referrals
• Benefits for the client? A healthier skin,
good home maintenance regime and a
feeling of money and time well spent!
Key steps…what do we say?
feature: what it is
Special Cleansing Gel a gentle
foaming cleanser which will
cleanse and refresh your skin
without stripping it like soap can
advantage: the effect of the
feature on the skin or body
benefit: what it
does
a. i. d. a.
• Attention:
Why are they there?
• Interest:
Is the product something they really
need?
• Desire:
Be passionate about your product
• Action:
Convince the client
probe and prescribe...
• Consultation, further
questions about life
style and contributing
factors
• Make suggestions,
listen to client, what is
the most urgent need
• Be prepared, be
knowledgeable about
future treatments and
products for home care
close the sale!
• Be happy, smile
• Present purchase in professionally
wrapped packaging along with instructions
on how and when to use
• Invite them back for future treatments, set
appointment time
• Send thank you note!
review
• What do we mean by features and
benefits of a product?
• Is it important to know your product line?
• What are the benefits to the client?
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