Split steering gaiter (nearside) this is
an MoT failure
SAFETY FIRST!!!!!!!
• Place car on level ground
• Select 1st gear or put selector in Park. Chock the rear wheels
• Release the wheel nuts ¼ turn – until they turn freely - Do not remove at this stage (The
wheel nuts will be tight you need the friction of the tyre against the road surface to
release them
• Jack up the car and support the suspension with proprietary supports such as axle stands
– do not use bricks or rely on the jack – a 3200 weighs over 1500kg
• Remove the wheel nuts and remove the road wheel – the wheel makes a handy seat to
save those knees!
Use a steel rule against the locknut to mark the steering arm with a sharp scribe
This is ESENTIAL to ensure steering geometry can be reset – you will need to scratch the steel as
greasy fingers will soon remove any marks in the road dirt leaving you with no idea where the
steering geometry was – make a note of the value you use
Lock nut
Mark the steering arm
with a SHARP metal
scribe
Avoid the castellated
area – its for a
spanner
Spray the lock nut with WD40 – leave for a few minutes to penetrate use a 22mm spanner to
undo the lock nut, ¼ turn, a 13mm spanner is needed to stop the steering arm rotating on its
joint, this can be braced against the lower wishbone as shown so you wont need 2 hands
Front anti roll bar
Lower
wishbone
Track rod or steering
arm end
13mm spanner on
castellated part of
steering arm
22mm spanner to release
the lock nut – note turn
clock wise as you face the
side of the vehicle – the
nut needs to move AWAY
from the track rod end
1
2
3
1
Release the lock nut on top of the ball joint with a socket and extension bar
Undo far enough to protect the top of the joint
Strike with a hammer sharply to release the taper
2
3
1
Steering arm released – unscrew the track rod end and count the number of turns –
use the same number of turns when replacing to keep the tracking in the right ballpark (it will
need to be checked on a machine for exact settings)
2
Release the plastic clips with a pair of pliers – if they break replace with plastic cable
ties - remember to make sure they don’t foul any thing so cut off the excess. The inner clips are
metal and normally break when removed – new ones are supplied in the kit
Slide off the gaiter and clean off all the excess grease and dirt – its grey brown because
the split in the gaiter has let water in
Ball and socket joint
Check for wear and excessive
movement
This slides in and out
check for wear
1
2
3
New parts (top) old removed parts (bottom) – note slight difference in the track rod end
Remove the tapered collet with a ball joint splitter – this will be very tight a puller may do the job
New track rod end with reused collet and washer – note a new nut is supplied but not a washer
1
Collet
3
2
1
Slide the new gaiter over the steering arm don’t forget the clip if using the metal crimp clips
shown, and ensure everything moves freely – some more grease maybe required on the rack and ball joint,
especially if the gaiter was split. The gaiter fits over a raised flange ensure this does not come off
2
Crimp the clip when you are sure its in the right position – a plastic cable tie will do the trick if this
clip breaks
1
Re fitting is the reverse of the removal don’t forget to count the turns and check the
measurements marked on the arm with a steel ruler
Lock nut make sure
this is tight
A trolley jack is used to force the taper
into the aluminium carrier – the
thread to the ball joint is an
interference fit its too tight to do up by
hand so the pin will rotate if not
pushed home – you will never tighten
the nut!