Development of a fuzzy logic model for designing
personalized ease allowance of a women trouser
Abher RASHEED
Xianyi ZENG
Sébastien THOMASSEY
Plan of the presentation …
1.
2.
Motivation
Literature
2.1
2.2
3.
Experimentation
3.1
3.2
3.3
4.
5.
6.
7.
Garment design
Body Morphology
Fabric selection
Observers / Models
Draping and ease allowance
Fuzzy logic Model
Results
Conclusion
Future work
2
1. Motivation…

A CAD system that can produce
garment patterns automatically
Good style
 Perfect fit for the client
 Low cost


Design a mathematical model
Calculating personalized ease allowance
 Body measurements
 Fabric properties

3
2.1 Garment Design …

There are two methods of garment
designing
A.
B.
2D pattern making
Draping
4
A. 2D Pattern Making …





Body measurements
Drawing construction
lines
Pattern making
Verification - Trueing
Grading
5
B. Draping …







Preparation of mannequins
Preparation of fabric
Draping on mannequin
Patron drawing
Seam allowances
Cutting and dart closing
Corrections
6
2.2 Body Morphology…

Morphologically, woman body is divided
into 7 categories [McCormack H. 2005]







8 shape
Hourglass
Pyramide
Inverse pyramide
Rectangular
Round
Oval
7
3. Experimental Work …
General scheme of mathematical model
8
3.1 Fabric Selection …

Six fabrics made of different materials were
chosen for this study.
9
3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…)

Physical Tests






Weight
Bending length
thickness
Linearity
Resilience
Compression energy

Sensory Evaluation





Smoothingness
Softness
Stretchability
Bulkiness
Fall
10
3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…)
11
3.1 Fabric Selection (Cont…)
12
PCA (Principle Component Analysis) …
Sample 1
Sample 3 Softness (var2)
Sample 4
Stretchability (var3)
Bending Length (var6)
Weight (var8)
13
3.2 Observers / Models …

3D body scanner was used to take the
body measurements of the models.
14
3.3 Patterns Obtained by Draping …
15
3.3 Ease Allowance Measurement …
Ease Allowance = mesurement on pattern – Body mesurement
16
4. Fuzzy Inference System …
a
17
4.
Fuzzy Inference System (Cont…)
SFT = Softness
STR = Stretchability
GSM = Weight
BEL = Bending Length
18
WHD = Waitst to hips distance verticle
EAH = Ease Allowance at Hips
Fuzzy Rules (Cont…)
19
5. Results Obtained
20
5. Results Obtained (Cont…)
21
13
20
12
19
11
17
16
EAH
15
EAH (cm)
EAH (cm)
18
10
9
EAH
8
14
7
13
6
12
5
11
4
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
21
22
23
24
WHD (cm)
25
26
27
28
29
30
WHD (cm)
Sample 1
Sample 3
13
12
17
11
15
10
13
EAH
11
EAH (cm)
EAH (cm)
19
9
EAH
8
7
9
6
7
5
5
4
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
21
22
23
24
25
26
WHD (cm)
WHD (cm)
Sample 4
Sample 5
WHD = Waist to hips distance verticle
27
28
29
21
EAH = Ease allowance at hips
6. Conclusion



The most important parameters are softness (SFT) and waist to
hips distance (WHD).
Stretchability (STR) is also reasonably critical while bending
length (BEL) comes after it.
Weight (GSM) has no significant influence on the results.
22
7. Future Work …



More sophisticated study is required to find out a
set of fabric parameters which greatly influence
ease allowance. For this purpose, a bigger
knowledge base has to be developed by using
more fabrics samples with more variations.
By using same technique, mathematical
expressions can be developed to find out ease on
other points of the pattern.
A software can be designed, by using all the
mathematical expressions, which will be able to
draft a pattern automatically (by getting a few
simple inputs)
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Thank you for your attention
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