Avoid the Tomato Blues Jon Traunfeld jont@umd.edu College of Agriculture and Natural Resources Isn’t six months enough? • With planning and not that much more effort • Harvest up to 10 or more months in MD • Increase variety and flavor Tomato (Solanum lycopersicum) • Self-pollinating, tender herbaceous perennial; produced as an annual crop around the world. • Fruit is 95% water; flavor determined by free sugars and acids, texture and growing conditions. • Optimal growth and development occurs when mean daily temperature is 70-75 degrees F.; growth stops below 50 degrees F. Flowers and fruits may drop when day temperatures >90 degrees F. and night temperatures >75 degrees F. • Produces adventitious roots along stem. • Growth habits vary –determinate, indeterminate, patio, jointless. • “What’s the best tomato?” They all grow well in MD! Tomato is tops! • 2001-2013 HGIC answered 1765 e-mail vegetable questions; 38% were for tomato. – Vegetable abiotic plant problems: 53% tomato – Vegetable disease problems: 62% tomato – Vegetable insect problems: 30% tomato – Vegetable weed problems: 11% tomato Some IPM tips… • Prevent problems and increase satisfaction by picking at breaker to pink stage. Ripen indoors unrefrigerated. • People don’t notice the start of foliar diseases. • “Wilt” (loss of turgor) is a misused descriptor. • Don’t suspect late blight unless warranted. • Disease resistance is variable (field vs. genetic). • Is it ok to plant in the same location? (common question) Pick these… Tomato plant & pest problems that cause greatest yield loss • Arthropods- spider mites, stink bugs • Diseases- foliar leaf blights (early blight, Septoria, gray leaf spot), late blight, fusarium wilt • Wildlife- mainly deer; also groundhog, squirrel • Abiotic- poor growing conditions, climate change, blossom-end rot, catfacing, cracks/splits, pithiness INSECTS AND MITES Some effective organic insecticides • Pyrethrins- controls or suppresses a wide range of insects (Pyganic- 1.4%) • Neem extract – suppresses beetles and caterpillars • Neem oil- insecticide and preventative fungicide • Spinosad- controls beetles, caterpillars, flies, thrips Some effective organic insecticides (cont.) • Bacillus thuringiensis- controls young caterpillars; suppresses large caterpillars • Surround- controls aphids, mites, caterpillars; suppresses bugs • Hort oil- controls aphids, mites, soft-bodied immatures • Insecticidal soap- suppresses aphids, mites, soft-bodied immatures Lady bird beetles chow down on aphids Tobacco hornworm I’m feeling sluggish these days… and what’s with these hitchhikers? The braconid wasps win! Photo: Rosemary Noble Brown and green stink bug (native) and fruit injury Brown marmorated stink bug (BMSB) Photo courtesy: Susan Levi-Goerlich Photo courtesy: Jane Hayes Eggplant leaves coated with Surround (kaolin clay) Surround- kaolin clay • 2006 research demonstrated significant flea beetle suppression in eggplant- may be effective against other pests. • About $1 per lb. Rate: 1 cup/1 qt. water. • Spray when leaves are dry. Apply thoroughly to all leaf surfaces. • Maintain white film coating on leaves; may take 2-3 applications. Re-apply if rainfall washes off white coating. • Can be used up to the date of harvest. ‘Juliet’ has tough skin- suffers less BMSB feeding Is it a problem? What can be done? Climbing cutworm Corn earworm a.k.a tomato fruitworm Usually enter at stem end Larvae mine and fold leaves and infest fruits. Tomato pinworm Spider mites love it hot and dry Spider mites Spider Mites • 8 legged, non-insect; active on leaf undersides. Two-spotted and European red are primary pest species. • Sucking mouthparts produce “stipples”; tiny bleached areas on leaf surface; leaves yellow and die • Webbing is a sign of severe infestation • Wide host range; many vegetable plants • Thrive in hot, dry weather • Many quick generations each year Organic Management • Mites like it hot, dry, and dusty. Hose off plants to dislodge and annoy mites. • Horticulural oil and insecticidal soap is most effective on eggs. May be used if leaves are not too damaged or hot to tolerate it. • Excessive nitrogen fertilization increases mites • Mites will migrate from neighboring weeds, so keep weeds supressed. Clean up garden residues. PLANT DISEASES Cultural control strategies • Grow resistant varieties. • Clean up and compost plant debris at end of season. • Prune out injury; bag up badly infested plants. • Plant lots of flowering plants to attract beneficial insects. Disease ID codes help you select resistant hybrid varieties Totally Tomatoes Early blight (fungal disease)- tomato Advanced symptoms of early blight Early blight- Alternaria solani • Principal foliar disease of tomato; also attacks potato, eggplant; a cosmopolitan pathogen. • Splashes up to lower leaves and progresses up plant; often appears with other leaf spot diseases. • First symptom is irregular brown lesions with bulls-eye pattern and yellow halo. • Can spread rapidly with warm, humid weather and defoliate plants. • Over-winters in crop debris, wooden stakes, and in soil. Organic management • Cultivars vary somewhat in susceptibility. • Give plants more space; improved air circulation. • Remove badly infected lower leaves. • Spray with fixed copper fungicide; other organic sprays have not proven effective. Manzate (mancozeb) and Daconil 2787 (chlorothalonil) are chemical fungicides. Septoria leaf spot… another foliar leaf spot disease Cutting or pruning out suckers also increases air flow around leaves , reducing disease incidence. Late blight – Phytopthora infestans ‘Iron Lady’ (resistant cultivar from Cornell breeding program) is available in 2013 from High Mowing Seeds. Late blight fruit symptoms Fusarium wilt of tomato Fusarium wilt- brown streaking under stem epidermis; also visible in many cases on outside of stem. Anthracnose- a fungal disease of ripe and overripe fruit. (Another reason to pick fruit at the “turning” stage). ABIOTIC PROBLEMS Frost/cold injury- leaf whitening, small gray/brown spots, or blotches Phosphorous deficiency early in season due to cool soil and small root system Edema- excessive soil moisture early in season, especially in containers. Blossom drop due to environmental stress (usually high temp.). Photo courtesy: Jerry Brust, Ph.D. Clopyralid herbicide injury 2,4-D herbicide injury Blossom-end rot (nutritional disorder) Epsom salt is NOT the answer. Muskmelon leaf burned with pyrethrum and soap insecticide “Catfacing” Adventitious (aerial) roots Physiological leaf roll (heat stress) Concentric cracking Radial cracking Graywall (blotchy ripening); inside fruit walls are brown or black Pithinessexcessive white tissue Green shoulder Uneven ripening Zippering Garden located next to large driveway that was resurfaced. Injury from petroleum products coming off “liquid asphalt cement” Weird stuff… ENJOY! Resources • Grow It! Eat It! http://www.extension.umd.edu/growit – We have all types of practical food gardening tips and information. Check out our popular blog! • Home and Garden Information Center http://www.extension.umd.edu/hgic – Here you will find factsheets, photos, and videos. You can also subscribe to the free monthly e-newsletter. – We answer gardening questions 24/7…just click “Ask Maryland’s Garden Experts” • Maryland Master Gardener Program http://www.extension.umd.edu/mg – Consider becoming a trained MG volunteer! This program was brought to you by the Maryland Master Gardener Program Howard County University of Maryland Extension