INDIAN WINE
India is a rapidly emerging wine economy in terms of both production and consumption, and
has the potential to become a significant player on the world wine scene. This stems from
the fact that the country has consistently experienced the highest growth in consumption
in the world – around 20–30% a year between 2002 and 2010. To meet this demand, a
significant quantity of wine is imported annually but India also has a mix of wellestablished and evolving domestic wineries.
Historically, the introduction of vines to the Indian subcontinent and the subsequent
proliferation of grape growing came from Persia in 500 BC. There is no evidence that
commercial viticulture existed before the 19th century, when British colonialists supported
the establishment of a local source of supply. However, just as the embryonic wine industry
started to take shape it suffered a devastating blow from the outbreak of phylloxera.
Religious and cultural vetos on alcohol consumption also proved to be a difficult challenge
for the growth of Indian wine after independence from Britain. This continues to be the
case in many parts of the country, where prohibition is enforced through local laws.
Despite these obstacles, a large-scale expansion in the Indian wine industry was experienced
in the late 1980s and early 1990s as a result of globalization and liberal economic
measures, as well as notable initiatives in modern wine growing by producers such as
Chateau Indage – India's first commercial winery. The current surge in wine consumption
is largely driven by the growth of an affluent 'middle class'.
TERROIR/CLIMATE
Because of its location, India is not an easy place for large-scale viticulture. With latitudes ranging from 10 to 35 degrees north, the
climate can be harsh and the tropical conditions mean that vines have to cope with a short growing season in addition to extreme
heat and an unforgiving monsoon. Typical summer temperatures on the plains can reach more than 116F (47C) and rainfall can be
intermittent. The climatic extremes are also exacerbated by high levels of humidity rising from the Arabian Sea and the Indian
Ocean. Additionally, Indian wine producers must protect their vines from conditions such as sunburn, fungal diseases and overripeness.
Altitude plays the most significant role in site selection, as elevation ensures cooler growing conditions and also protects the vines from
strong winds if they are planted in sheltered spots. The altitude in some of the prime growing areas reaches 3000ft (900m). A varied
range of nutrient-rich soil types, ranging from well-drained sandy variants to complex metamorphic formations produced by the
weathering of rock, lends character to Indian wines.
The majority of India's wine regions are concentrated in the south-western part of the country, primarily in the state of Maharashtra but
also in Karnataka. The slopes of the Sahayadri mountain range which forms the 'Western Ghats' have been identified as the most
suitable place for viticulture, due to high altitudes and a correspondingly mild macroclimate. Some of the most well-known wineproducing areas in Maharashtra include Nashik, Sangli, Sholapur, Satara, Ahmednagar and Pune. In the state of Karnataka, the
best sites are situated on the foothills of the Nandi Hills on the outskirts of Bangalore. Other notable grape-growing areas are found
in the states of Himachal Pradesh, Tamil Nadu, Punjab, and Jammu & Kashmir. A few areas in the north-east are also attracting
attention due to their high location and cooler climates.
Since the beginning of the current renaissance in its wine industry, India has adopted a modern approach to production, both in its
vineyards and wineries. Most commercial producers use phylloxera-resistant grafted vines imported from abroad. Contemporary
vineyard practices, ranging from top-class soil and canopy management to a wide range of trellising methods, are used to combat
the climatic extremes and control high yields caused by the fertile soils (it is not uncommon to find yields of 900hL/50 tons per
hectare). Bordeaux's Michel Rolland is the consultant winemaker for Grover Vineyards – a well-known winery based near
Bangalore.
India's low level of wine production contrasts with its total grape output of around 1.7m tons per year; the majority is used for table
grapes and raisins, with only about 10% going to the production of wine. An even lower proportion comes from high-quality
international varieties, although Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, Merlot and Zinfandel for reds and Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc,
Clairette and Sauvignon Blanc for whites are all grown. Thompson Seedless and Sultana vines produce the majority of India's
grapes, with other notable varieties including Isabella (local name: Bangalore Blue) and Muscat Hamburg (local name: Gulabi).
Wine styles range from heavy and alcoholic fortified wines to quality still wines and sparkling wines made by the traditional method.
CHENIN BLANC
SULA 2011 CHENIN BLANC – NASHIK,
INDIA
MAN VINTNERS 2011 CHENIN BLANC –
AGTER PAARL REGION, SOUTH AFRICA
SULA – MAHARASHTRA WINE REGION
‘NAPA’ OF INDIA
Maharashtra is the third-largest state in India and its capital, Mumbai, is both India's
largest city (with a population of more than 10 million) and its chief financial center.
Two-thirds of the state's population is employed in agriculture and Maharashtra is
home to two of India's largest grape-producing districts: Nashik and Sangli. More
than 90% of the country's wine is produced here and the state government
introduced concessions and incentives for wine producers to encourage more growth.
Although only a small percentage of Maharashtra's grapes are used for wine (with the
majority being sold as table grapes or raisins), the figure is increasing. A temperate
climate provides warm days and cool nights at the end of the growing season,
enabling the grapes to mature slowly. Some vineyards are planted as high as 980ft
(300m) to compensate for the region's latitude of 18.33 to 20.53 degrees north and
ensure adequate rainfall.
Maharashtra has more than 40 wineries. Two of the best known are Chateau Indage at
Narayangaon in the Sahyadri Valley, which was established in 1979, and Sula
Vineyards, 111 miles (180km) north of Mumbai in Nashik, where the first wine
grapes were planted in 1997.
More than 25 grape varieties are grown in Maharashtra, including Chardonnay, Pinot
Noir, Shiraz, Malbec, Viognier, Grenache, Arkavati, Arkeshyam, Ugni Blanc,
Sauvignon Blanc, Merlot, Zinfandel, Muscadet, Semillon and Chenin Blanc.
MAN VINTNER STORY
Man Vintners, South Africa –
To keep peace in the families, we took our wives’ initials (we each have one
wife) — that is how we explained to Marie, Anette and Nicky that we
were going to be “busy” most weekends. “It’s for you!” we told them. And
mostly it’s true.
José Conde and brothers Tyrrel and Philip Myburgh started making wine
together in 2001. They are supported by a group of grape growers from
the Agter-Paarl region.
Their first 500 cases were made in a tractor shed, we have grown to
producing over 175 000 cases per year and exporting to 25 countries.
Their biggest selling wines are Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon,
but the area is also known for Shiraz and Pinotage.
TERROIR:
Man Vintners –
Almost 80% of the farms are not irrigated and 52%
of the vineyards are not trellised (this
contributes to the low yield of the vines). Lower
yields result in smaller grapes, which means a
greater concentration of flavor.
What is unique about the Agter-Paarl area?
The low rainfall and ancient shale and decomposed
granite soils produce wines that are distinctive
and unique. Even though the area is quite dry,
the farmers have planted 80% of their vineyards
without supplemental irrigation: the shale soils
have excellent water retention, slowly releasing
enough water during the growing season to
perfectly ripen the grapes. 52% of our vineyards
are planted without trellising; combined with
the low rainfall and dry-land farming, our area
is a fairly low-yielding region, resulting in
concentrated, flavorful and distinctive wines.
Sula –
Maharashtra, 2,600 ft (800 m) along the
slopes of the Sahyadri to 3,300 ft (1000
m) in Kashmir. Summertime
temperature can get as hot as 113 °F
(45 °C) and wintertime lows can fall to
46°F (8°C).
During the peak growing season
between June and August, rainfall
averages 25–60 inches.
The Vineyards are in Nashik Valley,
India's finest wine region. Located just
180 km. from Bombay and 600 m. above
sea level.
Nashik lies on western edge of the
Deccan Plateau which is a volcanic
formation. The soil here is primarily
black which is favorable for agriculture.
Prashant Koli, India's renowned
Agricultural Scientist said;" It's the best
in North Maharashtra region due to its
iconoelasticity"
TASTING NOTES:
MAN VINTNERS The Agter-Paarl area is the ideal
region for growing Chenin Blanc
and our farmers have the largest
collection of old vine Chenin
Blanc in the country. To do
justice to the excellent bush vine
(un-trellised) grapes, we only use
free-run juice (vin de goutte) – we
don't press the grape skins – and
we leave the Chenin Blanc on its
lees for three to four months
before bottling for a richer, fuller
mouthfeel. We call this our 'sweet
and sour' wine - the acidity and
sweetness are perfectly balanced.
13.5% alcohol, RS 4.8 g/l
SULA –
A semi-dry, refreshingly light wine
bursting with
pineapple and stone fruit.
Food Pairing
Makes for a delightful aperitif and
ideal with food
that has a hint of sugar and spice,
such as Southeast
Asian or Gujarati dishes.
Residual Sugar
15.6 g/L 12.5 % alcohol
SAUVIGNON BLANC
SULA 2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC
VERITAS 2011 SAUVIGNON BLANC
TASTING NOTES:
VERITAS –
SULA –
2011 Veritas Sauvignon Blanc is
an intensely aromatic, mouthwateringly crisp, bone dry
white wine. The aromas and
flavors are of newly-cut grass,
gooseberries, passion fruit and
all kinds of citrus. Enjoy
Sauvignon Blanc for the
"jeunesse,"- the youth of the
wine - the younger the better.
The balance carries throughout
the bone-dry finish and would
be a perfect complement to
shellfish and seafood dishes.
Herbaceous, crisp, and dry, with
hints of green pepper
and a touch of spice at the finish,
this wine is
well balanced with good acidity.
Food Pairing
Goes well with spicy food,
especially coastal dishes
as well as lightly flavoured Asian
cuisine.
Residual Sugar
1.2 g/L 13% alcohol
VIRGINIA
Veritas Winery–
the Blue Ridge Mountains, Valley of Virginia, and the
Inner
Piedmont or foothills. Probably the area of highest
potential due to its possession of many positive
attributes of cooling, associated with elevation
increase. High quality is maintained by lower
summer 68 temperatures, lower night temperatures,
and lower humidity.
At 960 feet above sea level, the highest elevation fruit in
the state of Virginia; higher vineyards keep grapes
away from low-lying pollution, allow for sunnier days
and cooler nights, and give the eonologist a more
difficult but rewarding soil to cultivate.
CABERNET SAUVIGNON
GOOD EARTH 2008 BASSO - NASHIK
VALLEY, INDIA
MILBRANDT WINERY 2009 CAB SAUV COLUMBIA VALLEY, WASHINGTON STATE
GOOD EARTH 2008 BASSO
Basso is made with hand-selected Cabernet Sauvignon
grapes and nurtured in the finest oak barrels for a
year.
Our grapes are grown in the light, conducive soil of the
Nasik Valley. They are gently picked at optimum
maturity and processed with great care and humility.
Medium-bodied, ruby red in color, Basso hints of black
currants and pepper. A pleasant whiff of burnt toast
gives way to touches of plum and blackberry.
Basso complements Tandoori dishes, roast lamb and
grilled meats in general. We also like it with soft,
cow’s milk cheeses. Serve at 16-18 degrees C and
allow it to breathe in the glass for several minutes.
Swirl, sniff and notice the changes with every sip.
Dr. Rajesh Rasal has been studying and making wine for over a dozen
years. Dr. Rasal has the unique distinction of having been awarded the
first – and, so far, the only -- Doctor of Philosophy in oenology (the
science of wine) by an Indian university. He hones his winemaking
skills through frequent trips to the major wine making regions of the
world.
Viticulture practices, include the specification of organic manure and
fertilizer, low-yield grape production and manually harvesting the
grapes during the cool morning hours and use of temperature
controlled transport to ensure the grapes maintain optimal sugar
content.
Production
Hand select cold grapes before crushing under low pressure. They use
only pure imported yeasts during fermentation to maintain aroma.
Red wines undergo secondary fermentation and reserve reds are aged
for one year in oak barrels.
TERROIR
The grapes are grown and wine produced in the Nashik Valley,
approximately 120 miles northeast of Mumbai. A cool microclimate
and an alititude of almost 2,000 feet has enabled the growth of fruit
and flowers for hundreds of years.
The soil is well-drained and red, requiring vine roots to develop strength
as they travel deep.
The Nashik Valley is in the Northern Hemisphere, however, it is a
monsoon climate. The vines produce grapes twice a year, in October,
shortly after monsoon season, the grapes are discarded. Grapes for
wine production are harvested in March.
Additionally, we are the only winemaking region in the world that
harvests our grapes for crushing at the onset of warm weather. All
other winemaking regions harvest at the onset of cool weather. We
believe that this lends another unique element to the terroir of the
Nashik Valley.
MILBRANDT VINEYARDS – WASHINGTON
STATE
In 1997 Butch and Jerry Milbrandt planted their first grapevines in
Eastern Washington’s Columbia Valley AVA. It’s remote, windswept, high
desert dotted with sagebrush and tumbleweeds. The land ranges from
deep river gorges to vast mountain ranges and hills formed by Ice Age
floods and ancient volcanoes.
The Milbrandt family had been farming in the area since the mid-1950s.
Today, the Milbrandt family farms 12 estate vineyards totaling nearly
2,000 acres.
Milbrandt Vineyards are concentrated in the Wahluke Slope (AVA
established in 2006) and the Ancient Lakes area (currently under
application for AVA). Both growing areas share the same low rainfall and
long sunny days during the growing season. The Cab Sauv is grown on
the Wahluke Slope which is proving especially ideal for red wines.
PRICES
Man Vintners Chenin Blanc
$8
Sula Chenin Blanc
$10
Veritas Sauvignon Blanc
$15
Sula Sauvignon Blanc
$12
Good Earth Basso Cab Sauv
$16.50
Milbrandt Cab Sauv
$14