Wine Industry and cultivation
of vines in Japan
December ２０１０
TAKAHASHI Teiji
History of wine making in Japan
Meiji Government encouraged the wine production as a part of the Industry
development policy and its failure
In 1874 Mita breeding station was established. introduced vines from Europe and the
USA , distributed them to many regions in Japan
In Iwai village (Yamanashi) a winery was founded. Other wineries were opened.
In １８８４ Infected by phylloxera
In 1890 Zenbei Kawakami started the vinification and cross breeding
Meanwhile, the wine was not consumed. Many wineries stopped their business
Placing sweetened wine on the market and the expansion of its consumption
１８８６年 Denbei Kamiya Hati budousyu
１８９９年 Sinjiro Torii Akadama port wine (Origin of Suntory)
During the war, the tartaric acid was needed for radiodetector. The wine making
survived.
Due to the higher standard of living and the change of eating pattern, the
consumption of real wine started in Japan, Triggered by Tokyo Olympic
games and by Osaka International exhibition.
At first stage, the consumption of imported wine( promoted by activities of women)
Production and import of wine
National tax agency
1978
1998
2008
Domestic
28
ally
produced ,000KL
wine
146 83
Imported
wine
10
224 163
Total
38
370 246
Supply of wine in Japan （２００８）
Domestically
Produced
wine
Wine produced by Japanese
grapes
10.1%
large,
medium and small
wineries
23.6%
Mainly large
wineries
25,000KL（15,000 supplied
by farmers)
Wine produced by imported
juice or imported wine
５８，０００ＫＬ
Imported
wine
Table wine
６６．３％
large,
medium and small
importers
Total 246,000
Par adult 1.9L
Quality wine （ＧＩ wine）
１６３，０００ＫＬ
Concentration of wine production
Monthly report of statistics of liquors and foods
１９９７
１９９８
１９９９
２０００
％
Mercian
26.0
25.6
23.2
29.0
Suntory
23.7
22.2
21.5
26.3
Sapporo
9.3
10.2
8.5
9.5
Manns
8.4
9.9
8.5
9.5
Sainte
neige
4.6
4.4
5.3
Others
27.5
23.9
20.4
Supply of grapes by farmers
Survey of particular fruits by MAFF in 2007
Retrograde development of
supply by farmers
2001
02
03
04
05
07
08
Faltering agriculture
Hokkaido
lower price of grapes
（Competition with imported juice)
2390
トン
2326
2200
2252
2403
2282
2373
Yamanas
hi
4040
トン
4190
3897
3481
2788
3826
3154
Nagano
3922
トン
2512
3555
2690
4204
4350
4481
Japan
total
20184
トン
16509
16779
15360
15002
15838
14865
Increase of production in winery ‘s farming
land
In winery’s farming land, by contract
farming with farmers、 by agricultural
organization , Purchase from farmers
Recent trend of wine consumption
Stable consumption of certain quantity ・・・ Understanding of
quality of wine , of related culture
・・・Preference of quality wine
Stable consumption of ordinary wine as well
Competition with Imported wine
Recent trend
・Increasing interest in wine produced by Japans’ grapes
(100%) for consumers and producers
Remarkable improvement of quality of Japan’s wine for recent 15
years
・Revitalization of older regional wineries and new comers (vignerons)
in regions , who are eager to produce high quality Japan’s wine
・In large wineries, strengthening of high quality wine by 100 % of
grapes in Japan
Concept of high quality wine
recent notion
・Quality of wine depends on 80% quality of grapes, 20% technology of
vinification
・Good wine is to produce good grapes
Wine making is agriculture
Wineries themselves , both large and small are eager to produce good grapes.
Good grape= sugar and acid high contents, good color and flovour, high
contents of mineral, small fruits, thick skin.
・As far as pursuing high quality, character attributed to the region is observed
Notion of appellation d’origine (AOC)
・Combination of names of origin and grapes in labelling
Conjunction of the notion developed in Europe and the notion developed
in the new world
Example: Kikyogahara Merlot, Hokusin Chardonnay, Komoro Merlot
・ Possibility of export of high quality Japan’s wine
Evolution of production of grapes for wine in
Japan
・Belief that climate conditions such as high humidity are unfavorable to the
production of vines in Japan
Natural features and notion of terroir
Technology for production of table grapes has been advanced.
・For many years, the rest of table grapes has been used for wine production.
・Recognition of need of European varieties (vitis vinifera) to produce good wine.
Introduction of vitis vinifera and trial of cultivation by large wineries
Transfer of technology and know-how to small wineries
Selection of suitable land, soil improvement（deacidification, drainage）、
Cultivation methods and management （ trellis training- espalier training, pruning）
Prevention of adverse effect of rain ( rain cut, multi）
・Identification that some varieties are possible to cultivate, to produce good wine.
Still, under the process of trial and testing, possibility of identification of others varieties
・Reappraisal of indigenous varieties,
Kosyu, Muscat-Bailey A, Zenkoji
European varieties in Japan
Ｆｌａｇｓｈｉｐ Japan’s wine
Kikyogahara Merlot
Hokusinn Chardonnay
Jounohira cabernet sauvignon
Tomi
Komoro Merlot
Mercian
Mercian
Mercian
Suntory
Manns
Suitable varieties in Japan
Chardonnay、Merlot、Cabernet sauvignon、Petit verdot
Hokkaido: Zweigeltrebe、Muller-Thurgau、Kelner
Varieties rather difficult, no sufficient experiences
in Japan
Pinot noir, Rhine reisling, Sauvignon blanc, Shirah
Main regions in East of Japan
Nagan
o
・Shiojiri
・Hokusin
・Toshin
・Matsumoto,
Ａｚｕｍｉｎｏ
Merlot、Niagara, Concord
Ｃhardonnay、 Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlotー
Ｃhardonnay 、Cabernet sauvignon、 Merlot、Zenkoji
Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot、Ｃhardonnay 、Niagara、
Concord、Kerner
Yaman
ashi
・Katunu
ma, Enzan
・Koufu,
Kai
・Hokuto
Kosyu、 Cabernet sauvignon 、Muscat bailey A
Petit verdot
Kosyu、 Merlot 、Ｃhardonnay 、Muscat bailey A,
Niigata ・Iwanohara
Kosyu、Ｃhardonnay 、 Cabernet sauvignon
Muscat bailey A
Yamag
ata
・Kamino
yama, Zao
Cabernet sauvignon 、 Merlot 、Ｃhardonnay 、
Black queen, Pinot noir、Muscat bailey A
Hokkai
do
・Yoichi
・Otaru
・Tokachi
Muller thurgau、Kerner、Zweigeltrebe、
Baccus、Delaware
Kiyomi, Yamasati、Kiyomai、 Zweigeltrebe、
Main production areas of large wineries
Mercian
Kikyogahara Nagano Merlot
Hokusin Nagano Chardonnay
Jyonohira (Katunuma) Yamanashi Cabernet sauvignon
Omori Akita Reisling (3ha)
Niizuru Fukushima Chardonnay (40,000 bottles)
Mariko Nagano Chardonnay, Sauvignon blanc、Merlot (release in 2010)
（12ha, old mulberry field (derelict field)、 rain 900mm)
Suntory
Tomino-oka Yamanashi Tomi (150ha, Altitude 400~600m）
Shiojiri Nagano Shinsyu Chardonnay、Kikyogahara Merlot （10ha)
Manns
Komoro Nagano Merlot、Chardonnay (４ha, contract farming10ha)
Higashiyama Nagano Cabernet sauvignon
(3.3ha altitude 500m rain 950mm)
Wines of 100% Japanese grapes by larges
wineries
Mercian
Release of Mariko wine from 2010
Suntory
Japan premium (Thrilling Japanese wine in the world) from 2010
100% domestic grapes, Series of regions,
Shinsyu, Shiojiri、Tugaru、Kaminoyama, Azumino
100% domestic grapes, Series of grape varieties
Muscat bailey A, Kosyu, Chardonnay, Merlot
Manns
Solaris series
Komoro Chardonnay、Shinsyu Chardonnay、Komoro Merlot
Thikumagawa Merlot、
Shinsyu Cabernet sauvignon, Higashiyama Cabernet sauvignon
Example of medium and small wineries
Takeda winery Yamagata Kaminoyama 15ha
Cabernet、Merlot、Chardonnay、Reisling、Muscat bailey A
Ofuse winery Nagano 5ha
Chardonnay 5,000 bottles、Merlot 5,000bottles
Iwanohara wine Niigata 10ha
Muscat bailey A, Black queen
Hayashi farm Goiti wine Nagano 7ha, 38 farmers in contract
Special red、Gold red、Concord without additives、Niagara
Izutu wine Nagano
Merlot barrel fermented、Cabernet barrel fermented
Misawa winery（Tyuou budosyu） Yamanashi,
8ha ( old mulberry field ), Cabernet, Merlot, petit verdot, 4ha Kosyu
Beau paysage、Tsugane Yamanashi 2.8ha
Cabernet, Chardonnay, Merlot
Sakaori winery Yamanashi , Mainly by contract with farmers
Muscat bailey A
Around half of prizes in Japan wine competition were given to wines of small
and medium size wineries in 2010.
All over Japan, approximately 200 wineries in 2010
Cultivation method of vines in Japan
（Control of growing environment）
Limitation of fertilizer and pesticides
（Control of growth）
Prevention of much growth
Leaf thinning、pruning、摘芯、espalier training、
high density planting (3,000~6,000/ha)
（High density planting and control of yield）
Two branches (arcures), 10~15 buds (yeux)、one cluster par bud
Restriction of yield (5~15 tonnes/ha), Kosyu table grapes: 17 tonnes /ha)
Distance between pieds :1~1.5m、distance between line (row) 2~3m
（Prevention of humidity (rain)）
Problem of rain in fall： rain cut, multi
（Prevention of diseases）
Green house effect to grapes
•
Problems of color and sugar contents for black grapes
problems of sugar contents and flavor for white grapes
•
According to recent studies, certain level of low temperature is important, instead of
the difference of temperature between day time and night.
Above 25 degrees in night = the sufficient black color does not come. Without low
temperature in night and at dawn= the level of sugar contents is insufficient.
•
・ Pionet (table grape) : no sufficient color. Kyoho (table grape) in Makioka district :
insufficient color in recent years.
• In Kikyogahara, suffering from diseases in recent years. Irregulier rains. However,
color problem does not exist. The cultivation of cabernet became possible in recent
years.（Izutu wine grows this variety）
•
Diseases became serious under the greenhouse effect.
Tokachi areas (Hokkaido) are suffering, due to the high humidity in summer.
30 % were infected by mildew in Yamanashi prefecture (2010)
Kosyu and Muscat bailey A have been suffering from diseases (2010)
Green house effect (Continued)
• Chardonnay in a winery in North Nagano has been totally
devastated, because of missing of timing of spraying （2010)
• Niagara is cultivated all over Japan. In Yamanashi, the aroma are
poor. No problem in Kikyogahara for Niagara and Concord.
• The flavor of Chardonnay is the most intensive just before sun rise.
The wine in Kumamoto (Kyusyu) has won a gold prize. Grapes were
harvested at dawn.
• The production of good wine would be possible in western part of
Japan by selection of suitable land at high altitude.
• Opinions that too much concerns about the greenhouse effect would
induce a confusion, in longer terms.
Institutional issues of wine production and
consumption
・Liquor tax law regulates the wine only for the purpose of imposition of tax.
Any specific legal definition of wine does not exist ( Fruits liquor)
・There is not any legislation for wine industry development, neither for the
protection of consumers.
( A group of parliamentarians of the liberal democratic party for the development of wine industry has
been created. )
・No legal standards for the labelling
（Voluntary standards by some groups of the industry exist)
・The system of GI （regional collective trade marks, GI system under the law of
cooperatives for liquor) does not function well. There is not any registration・
designation for wine at the moment.
（In the world standard, high quality wine is legally segregated from usual wines）
・No legal system to classify the domestic high quality wine as GI
・Japanese high quality wine is regarded as ordinary one in overseas market.
＝labelling of names of region , of 「barrel fermented」, 「 sur lie」 are not allowed in
overseas。
・ Uncertainty of protection of names of Japanese high quality wines
Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano
(since 2002）
Requirements of production
・Grape varieties and sugar contents
Merlot, Chardonnay, Asama merlot = sugar contents over 19 degrees
Other varieties are classified according to the minimum degrees of sugar
contents(18, 17,and 16 degrees)
・Grapes produced in Nagano prefecture 100%
・ Blend of varieties
Yes
・Limit of enrichment (Chaptalisation)
19 degrees
maximum limit of
alcohol value of enrichment
3.15ml/100ml
18 degrees
3.80
17 degrees
4.46
16 degrees
5.10
Degree of sugar contents of grapes
Acidification, Deacidification
No
Appellation d’origine management system in Nagano
（Continued）
・Juice reserve
Yes （under 25% of the wine)
・Freezing of grapes
Yes
・Blend of different vintage wines
No
・Additives
sulfite only
Noble wine and wine of frozen grapes
Other wines
Under 350mg/kg
Under 250mg/kg
・Place of vinification
From crush to bottling and bottle aging within the territory of
Nagano prefecture
・Sensory test (examen organoleptique)
Obligation
・Labelling standards
・Surface side Registration mark
・Reverse side Name of origin (Nagano)、Name/s of varieties
( percentage)、 Vintage year、Place of production,
Name of additive (sulfite)
Certification system of appellation d’origine
of Kosyu city（2010）
１ Categories
（１） Wine of grapes produced in Kosyu city
100% of grapes harvested in Kosyu city
Sugar contents： Kosyu: minimum 16 degrees、European varieties: minimun 18
Hibrid varieties: minimum 17
Bland of different varieties is allowable, except Kosyu variety
（２） Wine of grapes harvested in Yamanashi prefecture, Vinification in Kosyu city
100 % of grapes harvested in Yamanashi
Sugar contents: same standards as above
２ On site verification based on application document by the committee of document
examination (by November)
３ Application and Examination by the Committee of document examination
４ Sensory test by the committee of sensory test
５ Examination of labelling
６ Declaration of certification、 Distribution of certification sticker