roman clothing - julie petrusa

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Roman

Clothing

By Julie Petrusa

citizen, matron, curule magistrate, emperor, general, workman, slave

The Toga

 The toga was made from white wool or white Egyptian linen. It was square or rectangular in shape and was worn draped around the body. Togas were arranged very carefully, in a stylish way.

 The salutatio, speeches, solemnities, big festivities, and visits of important people were reasons to wear such an uncomfortable toga. In the daily life the toga wasn't very important because you couldn't move easily in it.

 A Roman could tell how important or wealthy a person was from their toga. Consuls and senators wore a toga edged with purple. When a Roman was a candidate for one of the many political functions, he was allowed to wear a toga candida, an extra white toga. Some emperors' togas were made entirely from either purple or black cloth. Black togas, though, were usually only worn in times of mourning.

The Tunic

 The tunic was worn the whole day by proletarians, shopkeepers, building workers etc., because you could move comfortably in this article of clothing. Sometimes the tunic was also worn under the toga. The tunic was a simple long shirt with primitive sleeves. Tunics were made of cool linen, for summer wear, and warm wool, for winter wear.

 (E1) A long-sleeved tunic was put on first and over it (E2) a shorter tunic with short sleeves. (E3) The outfit was completed by a cloak fastened with a buckle on the right shoulder.

 (F) Women's tunics often had sleeves fastened with buckles. The over garment was often sleeveless and a cloak would be worn over it. All these garments were dyed in different colors, usually quite bright ones.

Men's Clothing

A man's underwear was a loincloth and it was made of wool or linen. He wore a tunic over it which was made from two rectangles stitched at the side and shoulders and tied with a belt. Men wore a knee-length tunic, either sleeveless or short-sleeved. Ordinary men wore tunics in various colors. A tunic with a purple stripe running down the front was a senator's tunic. Roman men wore a toga over their tunic, which was like a wide shawl that was draped over the shoulder and carefully wrapped around the body. A cloak was worn at night and during winter for warmth, and as protection against rain and wind. Outdoors people in rural areas wore cloaks and trousers.

Senator - White toga, purple bands and boots Knight - White toga and tunic, purple bands and sandals

Magistrate - White tunic, purple toga, gold embroidery High Rank - White tunic, purple tunic, gold embroidery

Openings for the arms were left at the top of the garment, creating an effect of short sleeves when the tunic was belted; since tunics were usually not cut in a T-shape, this left extra material to drape under the arm, as can be clearly seen in this statue of a first-century CE orator in tunic and toga.

The back of the toga was pulled over the head for religious ceremonies, as in this statue of Augustus as chief priest.

Most ancient statues do not show these stripes, but this wall painting from a lararium in Pompeii depicts both the tunica

laticlavia and toga praetexta.

Sometimes their tunics also left one shoulder uncovered, as depicted in this mosaic of a man named Frucius (whose narrow stripes indicate equestrian rank) being attended by two slaves, Myro and Victor.

Slaves were not inevitably dressed in poor clothing, however; Junius, the young kitchen slave depicted in this mosaic, wears a more elegant tunic and a gold neckchain.

Women's Clothing

Women wore a loincloth as underwear and sometimes for a brassiere or corsets. They wore a tunica over it, probably of fine wool or linen.

Women wore a tunica which was adapted from the Greek chiton. The tunica was usually kneelength. Over this the women wore a stola which was a full length from neck to ankle, highwaisted and fastened at the shoulders with clasps. The stola was usually either white, brown or grey, though some were brightly coloured with vegetable dyes. Richer women had brightly colored stolas made out of silk or fine Indian cotton. Many women wore a veil or scarf to protect their hair when they were outside. A shawl, called a palla, was worn wrapped around the shoulders and arm, or could be draped over her head. Cloaks were worn to keep warm.

Under tunic, stola, palla Under tunic, stola, palla

Purple stola, gold embroidery Young woman - Under tunic stola

depiction of a matron whose elegantly draped palla has a fringe

Statues of the first empress Livia prominently display her stola, even in this one whose head has been lost, a close-up clearly shows the strap of her stola.

We do not know a great deal about Roman underclothes, but there is evidence that women wore a simple, wrapped loincloth

(subligar or subligaculum, meaning “little binding underneath”) at least some of the time. Women also sometimes wore a band of cloth or leather to support the breasts (strophium or mamillare). Both these undergarments can be seen on the women from this fourth-century CE mosaic.

Accessories

Footwear

 (G-H) The most common form of footwear was the sandal laced across the instep. (I) Boots like this called a cothurnus or buskin were regarded as divine garments and were supposed to be worn by the gods. Some emperors wore them too. In the theatre they were associated with tragedy in contrast to the flat soccus worn by comic actors. Some people particularly soldiers and wagoners wore short ankle-length boots

(peronis). (J) Philosophers and people who believed in the simple life wore light sandals, often made of papyrus, (K) the cartabina, also laced across the top, was worn by peasants.

Sandal, Buskin, Soft Leather Shoe, Sandal woman's leather thong-style sandal with a gold ornament, simple workman's shoe

ancient leather shoes on top and modern reconstructions below

Men’s Hairstyles

Hadrian

 Men’s hairstyles and beards varied with the times. In early Roman times, men wore long hair and full beards. For a while, they were clean-shaven with short hair. About 1cAD, they had started to style their hair, and wear beards again. Wigs were worn by men as a disguise and to hide baldness.

Women's Hairstyles

 Women's hairstyles varied from period to period and were often very elaborate. Sometimes the hair wasn't thick enough for the current style and then wigs would be worn. (A) This complicated structure of plaits piled on top of the head was worn by young girls on their wedding day. (B) and (C) The "bird's nest" or

"diadem" style appeared under the Flavians and lasted a long time with variations. (D) An early hairstyle. Until the middle of the first century, styles remained fairly simple.

various hairstyles the unusual hairstyle worn by Julia Domna during the latter half of the second century CE

bust of Sabina, wife of emperor Hadrian

side view of Flavian hairstyle rear view of Flavian hairstyle somewhat less elegant Flavian ladies

Jewelry

Cameo portraits were worn, as in this pendant depicting a married couple.

 Most early Roman jewelry resembled Greek and Etruscan jewelry, but

Roman styles eventually developed. The Romans were fond of colored stones such as topaz, emeralds, rubies and sapphires. Pearls were favorites. Pendants, especially cameos in gold frames, were popular.

 Rings were the only jewelry worn by Roman citizen men, and good manners dictated only one ring. Of course, some men did not follow "good taste", and wore as many as sixteen rings.

 The ancient Roman women loved ornate necklaces, pins, earrings, bracelets and friendship rings.

A representative collection of jewelry from the first to the third centuries

CE includes earrings, necklaces, pendants, bracelets and rings of gold, gems

(garnets were especially popular), and cameos.

Gold coins (aurei) were often made into jewelry: a pendant with a coin of the empress Julia Domna, a pendant with garnets and a coin of the emperor Caracalla (son of Julia Domna and Septimius Severus).

Silver was used less frequently, as in this medallion with chain or this bracelet with a portrait of a child.

an armband with coins of Caracalla and his wife Plautilla

The portrait of this woman is one of many so-called “mummy portraits” dating from Egypt after it became a Roman province; these portraits, usually depicting only the face and shoulders, present us with strikingly individualized faces of varying ethnicities, Greco-Roman clothing, adornment, and hairstyles, combined with the quintessentially Egyptian custom of mummification. We know that this woman was named

Isidora, since her name is painted in Greek on the wooden sarcophagus, and her hairstyle dates to the period of the emperor Trajan, the beginning of the second century CE.

Bibliography

Akiko G. Kayoko S. and Seung Yeob L. Ancient Rome. March 25, 2001.

http://www.internet-at-work.com/hos_mcgrane/rome/eg_rome_menu1.html

Lin and Don Donn. Daily Life in Ancient Rome. March 25, 2001.

http://members.aol.com/Donnclass/Romelife.html#HAIR

McManus, Barbara. Roman Clothing. April 4, 2001. http://www.vroma.org/~bmcmanus/clothing.html

Roma, History and Civilization of the Eternal City. March 26, 2001.

http://cyberfair.gsn.org/citrag/roma/eng_home.htm

Roman Life. March 25, 2001.

http://www.dl.ket.org/latin1/things/romanlife/index.htm

The daily life in Rome. March 26, 2001. http://library.thinkquest.org/22866/English/Romday/RomDag.html

The Romans Page. March 25, 2001. http://ireland.iol.ie/~coolmine/typ/romans/intro.html

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