W34418 ZARA: THE EVOLVING FAST-FASHION INDUSTRY1 Dan Doiron wrote this case solely to provide material for class discussion. The author does not intend to illustrate either effective or ineffective handling of a managerial situation. The author may have disguised certain names and other identifying information to protect confidentiality. This publication may not be transmitted, photocopied, digitized, or otherwise reproduced in any form or by any means without the permission of the copyright holder. Reproduction of this material is not covered under authorization by any reproduction rights organization. To order copies or request permission to reproduce materials, contact Ivey Publishing, Ivey Business School, Western University, London, Ontario, Canada, N6G 0N1; (t) 519.661.3208; (e) cases@ivey.ca; www.iveypublishing.ca. Our goal is to publish materials of the highest quality; submit any errata to publishcases@ivey.ca. Copyright © 2023, Ivey Business School Foundation Version: 2023-12-11 In March 2023, Zara, one of the primary leaders and the most profitable global competitor in the fastfashion industry, found itself increasingly under attack on several fronts. The industry had a growing poor reputation regarding the negative human and environmental impacts associated with its supply chains. The industry was also experiencing a significant prevalence and growth of online shopping, which had taken the women’s apparel industry by storm. This had the effect of enabling the entrance of many new online competitors that were not burdened with large and expensive bricks-and-mortar retail networks, unlike Zara with its 5,815 high-end stores.2 Last, the evolution of artificial intelligence (AI) technology in the industry, supporting retail purchasing decisions, had progressed in ways not envisioned ten years prior. All of these factors were putting enormous pressure on the industry-leading, fast-fashion business and profit model of Zara and its holding company Industria de Diseño Textil SA (Inditex). What would the future look like for Zara as the fundamental fast-fashion business model evolved and changed? Would it be an evolutionary step down the fast-fashion curve or perhaps something entirely different and more revolutionary? ZARA’S INDUSTRY LEADING BUSINESS MODEL Over the previous twenty years, Inditex’s business model had propelled it to the top of the fashion manufacturing and retail industry, with 2022 industry-leading sales of US$32.6 billion 3 (up 17.5 per cent over 2021) and extraordinary after-tax profits equalling $4.47 billion or 13.7 per cent of sales (see Exhibit 1).4 Online sales of $8.4 billion in 2022 commanded a full 25.8 per cent of Inditex sales, growing by 4 per cent year-over-year.5 Zara’s business model appeared to be relatively simple: spend time with its customers, who were primarily younger inner-city women, with an eye to identifying current fashion desires and trends; use its superior design and manufacturing capability to bring these new ideas to stores (and websites) in as little as two weeks; and drive industry-leading per-customer store visits and sales at full price through policies of scarcity and near zero replenishment of popular styles. The success of this business model was indisputable—it worked! Among other things, it allowed Inditex and Zara to avoid costly markdowns associated with undesirable or off-trend fashion, which in many ways represented the evil underbelly of the fashion retail business. For Zara this risk was minimized, with as little as 15 per cent of its inventory sold at markdown prices, versus over 35 per cent for the industry. 6 Inditex aptly described its approach as: “Nurturing a highly intimate relationship with its customers, Zara’s designers respond instinctively to their changing needs, reacting to the latest trends and constant feedback to deliver new ideas for everyone in the right place and at the right moment.”7 This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Sep 2024 to Mar 2025. Page 2 W344 Zara’s shareholders were rewarded for this innovative approach with years of solid growth and an extraordinary market capitalization of $97.9 billion by March 2023. 8 To put this in perspective, traditional competitor Hennes & Mauritz Inc. (H&M) was valued at $19.2 billion, while The Gap, Inc. (Gap) only recognized $3.66 billion in value.9 Zara had not only led the fashion industry but, in many ways, created the fast-fashion business model that had successfully disrupted traditional fashion retailing. It was truly a force to be reckoned with in the fashion industry. THE GLOBAL FASHION INDUSTRY The global apparel market was estimated to be worth $1.7 trillion in 2022, representing 2 per cent of global gross domestic product (GDP). Employing approximately 430 million people, or 12.6 per cent of the global workforce, the industry was one of the largest in the world and was expected to grow at a compounded annual growth rate (CAGR) of 2.8 per cent between 2023 and 2027.10 The growth in the apparel industry was influenced by several factors, including changing demographics and urbanization of the global population. Urbanization was not a new trend—this phenomenon had been occurring for centuries, with people drawn to urban centres by the promise of economic opportunities and access to services and amenities, along with environmental and social factors. This had accelerated in recent times, with over half of the world’s population (55 per cent) living in urban centres by 2022. This trend was expected to continue; projections were that by 2050, 80 per cent of the global population would live in urban centres (see Exhibit 2) with the total global population expected to reach 9.7 billion in that timeframe.11 The global women’s apparel market was predicted to grow by a CAGR of 3.8 per cent from 2022 to 2028. In 2022, it was valued at $965 billion.12 Growth was traditionally driven by several factors, including rising disposable income, increasing fashion consciousness, and changing lifestyles, particularly in the large urban centres of the world. The fast-fashion industry had no small part in driving this growth by meeting the demands of these fast-changing fashion trends and desires. The United States and Asia Pacific were the largest markets globally for women’s apparel. Trends toward sustainability and ethical fashion were also expected to impact growth in this segment, with an increasing number of consumers becoming aware of the environmental and social impact of the fashion industry—thus, the “slow fashion” movement was created. However, the early days for this segment of the industry only garnered an estimated value of $6.5 billion by early 2023.13 The extent to which these consumers would vote with their conscience versus the buying power afforded by fast fashion remained to be seen. Industry growth opportunities, specifically in developed countries, were being led by changing demographics, including the plus-size segment. The global plus-size women’s clothing market was valued at $193 billion in 2021 and predicted to grow at a CAGR of 4.3 per cent through 2030.14 This category was growing for several reasons, including an increased awareness of body positivity and size inclusivity. In response to this opportunity, many fashion brands expanded their size ranges to include more plus sizes, with some launching dedicated plus-size collections. E-commerce made it easier for women in this category to find and purchase clothing. Growth in this market was expected to continue due to demographic factors, such as the aging of the population and increasing rates of obesity, with 41.9 per cent of the US population registering as obese at the time.15 Global online fashion sales reached $744 billion in 2022, up from $668 billion in 2021 and were projected to reach $821 billion in 2023, a 10.3 per cent annual growth rate. Women’s apparel was predicted to dominate this market segment, given that it represented 68.5 per cent of 2021 global online revenue.16 With the overall fashion industry having achieved a growth rate of 4.5 per cent in 2022, the dominance of this This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 3 W344 segment and this retail channel needed to be considered. 17 Asia Pacific was the world’s largest market for online apparel sales with a projected annual growth of 11 per cent through 2025, driven by countries like China and India.18 The rapid growth in mobile commerce was also contributing to the growth in this category, as more consumers in developing countries gained access to the Internet via mobile devices. A CHANGING LANDSCAPE The global fast-fashion industry was seeing material change, driven by three primary factors: the growing environmental impact and social costs created by the industry; the shift to online shopping preferences; and the related emergence of new AI technology. The Real Cost of Fast Fashion In 2018, shoppers purchased up to five times more clothing than they had in 1980. This amounted to an average of sixty-eight garments per consumer in 2018, equating to a staggering eighty billion garments annually. If the global population grew to 8.5 billion by 2030, as experts believed, with an accompanying growth in global GDP, global fashion would grow by 63 per cent from sixty-two million to 102 million tons produced annually.19 Clearly, this would not be sustainable for the planet. Consumers were increasingly becoming agitated by the environmental impacts of throwaway fashion. Landfills were filling up with recent out-of-style fashion and Zara’s strategy of designing clothes to only be worn seven to ten times to keep pace with the rate of change in fashion trends could be viewed as contributing to the issue.20 Ninety-two million tons of garments made their way into landfills in 2022 alone, foreshadowing a trend that could lead to 134 million tons per year by 2030. 21 Fashionable clothes also consumed a large quantity of natural resources to manufacture and transport. Water, which in many countries was moving from a commodity to a scarce resource, was used in abundance to manufacture clothes. Up to 2,700 litres of water were required for each new cotton blouse or pair of stylish tights. As of 2020, 79 trillion litres of water were consumed by the fashion industry annually, equating to 20 per cent of global industrial water pollution.22 Carbon emissions from the industry topped 2.1 billion tons in 2022, roughly 10 per cent of world greenhouse gas emissions (GHG).23 At current growth rates, that could increase by 50 per cent by 2030. One kilogram of material generated 23 kilograms of greenhouse gases. 24 Nike, Inc. and Inditex both reported 2022 emissions of approximately 10 million tons of carbon dioxide equivalent (CO2e), which equated to over two million gas-powered cars. The industry also used 25 per cent of chemicals produced worldwide.25 The fast-fashion industry was one of the worst polluters on the planet, coming in as the sixth-largest industrial source of greenhouse gases (GHGs).26 When washed, fashion produced with synthetic fabrics released microfibres into the water system which then made their way into oceans, lakes, and rivers, were ingested by fish and other marine life, and ultimately made their way into the human food chain. In 2023, microfibres were omnipresent in over 90 per cent of fresh and seawater samples, including, surprisingly, the waters of Antarctica.27 Of the one hundred billion items of clothing produced in 2019, 20 per cent went unsold. This was not particularly surprising given the nature of fast-changing fashion trends. These unwanted garments were ultimately shredded, buried, or burned. In a shocking acknowledgement in 2018, the British fashion house Burberry admitted in its annual report to incinerating $38 million worth of its stock, up 43 per cent from the previous year. In 2017, a Danish TV show, Operation X, exposed H&M for burning twelve tons of unsellable clothing since 2013.28 This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 4 W344 The global fashion industry employed one out of six people in 2019, making it the world’s largest laborintensive industry. However, fewer than 2 per cent of these employees earned a living wage. The industry employed more than 57 million people, the majority of whom were from underdeveloped regions. The enormity of this global employment was driven by the insatiable desire for fashion in the developed world. In 2017, the United States imported $82.7 billion in apparel, while exporting only $5.7 billion. In that same year, Britain imported 92.4 per cent of its clothing.29 The fashion industry, for all intents and purposes, presented as an environmental and human catastrophe proceeding on an ever-worsening trajectory. Shift to Online Shopping With the growth of online apparel sales, large e-commerce companies were taking stock. In 2021, Amazon.com, Inc. (Amazon) and Shein were the top-visited websites for purchasing apparel. 30 Amazon alone sold over $41 billion in its fashion business in 2021.31 ASOS PLC, a relatively new UK-based online fashion retailer, sold $4.85 billion in its fiscal year ended August 2022, with a 43.6 per cent gross margin.32 Online purchasing was being driven, for the most part, by the increasing use of mobile commerce. In 2021, 67.2 per cent of all e-commerce sales globally were mobile.33 Online shopping represented 19.6 per cent of fashion retail sales in 2021 and was expected to reach 25 per cent by 2025.34 This trend, among other things, had opened the market for online-only retailers, many of whom were emulating Zara’s fast-fashion manufacturing capabilities without the burden associated with running expensive stores. The relevance of the physical store was being called into question. That inclination, in many ways, would shake up one of Zara’s key competitive advantages as it depended on its customers to give it new ideas for future products; the store was the perfect place to gather this insight. Not surprisingly, Inditex responded to the growing e-commerce trend by closing or consolidating retail floor space, with the number of stores as of January 2023 at 5,815, down 10.2 per cent from 6,477 in January 2022.35 Previously, it had been on a roll, opening 2,425 new stores from a total of 5,044 in 2010 to a peak of 7,469 stores in 2019.36 That trend was now in reverse. Not surprisingly, the rise of e-commerce led to business and store closures by what many considered to be strong traditional clothing retailers. Victoria’s Secret & Co. announced in May 2020 the closure of 250 stores in the United States and Canada. Macy’s, Inc. confirmed it would be closing thirty-seven more of its stores in 2021. Lord & Taylor LLC filed for bankruptcy and liquidated thirty-eight stores. Gap was planning to close 350 stores by 2024, primarily those in shopping malls and an additional 130 North American Banana Republic stores over a three-year period. American Eagle Outfitters, Inc. planned to shutter up to five hundred stores over a two-year period. Iconic retailer Penney OpCo LLC (JCPenney) filed for bankruptcy in May 2020 under the weight of $4 billion in massive debt, forcing the closure of 242 stores.37 Even Zara announced in June of 2020 that it would be closing 1,200 of its 7,412 stores as part of a restructuring plan, with a focus on the continued growth of e-commerce sales.38 It became clear that many fashion retailers, including Zara, were struggling to get out from under the weight of their retail networks while growing their online sales. Emerging New Competitive Technology in Fashion Retail New online fast-fashion retailers, like UK-based Boohoo.com UK Limited, were emerging as not only contenders, but perhaps leaders in the growing fast-fashion industry. These retailers had an advantage in This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 5 W344 that they did not have to support a legacy bricks-and-mortar network of stores (and their related costs) but faced the disadvantage that they were, in many cases, relatively unknown brands to consumers. They also did not have that intimate in-person relationship with their customers that retail stores often offered, which retailers like Zara used to their advantage in spotting and identifying the latest fashion trends and desires. However, newer technology like AI was starting to replace the individual customer relationship. AI allowed fashion firms to get to know their customers in a very personal way. Products and shopping experiences could be personalized to the individual with minimal time interaction, with sizes that fit and, importantly, products could be pushed to the customer driven by recent customer search history and natural language processing engines. Trends would be easier to predict given the breadth of AI and its ability to identify customer behaviour with predictive analytics. It would even be able to predict if customers were planning to make a purchase soon, driving direct marketing efforts related to that future purchase decision. AI would drive demand forecasting back into supply chains against upcoming trends, minimizing the number of fashion misses and related markdowns retailers experienced. 39 This would make fashion retailers more competitive and profitable. Augmented reality and virtual reality were also evolving to provide a more immersive shopping experience for customers. Customers could try on clothing virtually prior to purchasing, driving informed decisions and reducing costly returns. More personalized decisions and experiences using this technology could offer recommendations based on body shape, style preference, and past purchasing behaviour. Virtual prototypes of clothing could be tested and modified prior to production, driving a more efficient and effective design and distribution process. ZARA’S TRADITIONAL APPROACH Inditex (and Zara), one of the world’s leading fast-fashion retailers, with 2022 sales of $32.6 billion, was credited with inventing the fast-fashion business model.40 Amancio Ortega, Zara’s founder, understood that its target customers, who were primarily younger women living in large urban centres, exhibited three key behaviours which Zara would have to adapt to and leverage to succeed . . . and succeed it did. Hard to Predict and Influence From the very beginning, it was well understood that fashion apparel customers were a fickle group that could be extremely hard to predict and influence. They could be easily swayed by unpredictable factors, such as celebrity fashion, friends’ fashion choices, or the need to differentiate themselves in a crowded urban environment. These variables made it challenging to predict the next fashion hit, which drove the single largest risk in the fashion retail apparel business: a fashion miss. Fashion misses resulted in the requirement to remove or discount stock to make room for new inventory. Firms in this industry, on average, discounted more than one-third of their stock, while another third was never sold, meaning over half of their clothing did not sell at full price.41 To mitigate the risk of a fashion miss, many apparel retailers spent an exorbitant amount of money on advertising, with a focus on building brand awareness and consumer loyalty. This worked—to a degree. For example, in 2022, Gap spent $1.04 billion on advertising, against $16.67 billion in sales, up from a high advertising spend of $816 million in 2020.42 This represented 6.7 per cent of sales or, importantly, 16.8 per cent of gross profit margins.43 Zara, by contrast, spent very little on advertising, at just 0.3 per cent of sales in 2022.44 In the highly competitive fashion industry this was certainly a defining driver of profitability. This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 6 W344 Tastes Changed Often Fashion cycles could also be notoriously short, especially in the urban womenswear segment. Trends came and went, which drove fashion retailers to introduce new fashions more often and avoid replenishing items where “old” stock might necessitate potential discounts. Fast fashion had approximately fifty-two “micro- seasons” per year, driving new style releases weekly.45 This contrasted significantly with traditional fashion retailers that orchestrated two main fashion seasons per year.46 In the world of ever-changing consumer tastes, replenishment rates should ideally have been low, reflecting a strong tie to consumers’ needs or desires. This impacted both inventory turnover ratios and the ability to sell items at or near full price. Introducing new fashions frequently could have the positive desired effect of enticing customers back to the store more often. A fashion retailer’s ability to react quickly to shifting fashion preferences was a defining factor of success in this market segment. Zara enabled success by leveraging its ability to adapt to its target customer behaviours. It maintained several key company policies to enable success, one of which was its replenishment policy. Essentially, Zara rarely replenished store inventory, even for items that sold well. 47 Instead, it chose to fill that shelf space with new items. This created two important, and relatively unique to Zara, customer behaviours. First, customers came back to its stores more often in search of these new fashion items, at a rate of seventeen times per year (versus an average of 3–4 times for competitors).48 Second, if customers saw a product they liked, they would typically purchase it on the spot, as they knew (or rather, had been trained by Zara) that this item would not likely be there the next time they visited the store. This had the desired effect of driving higher inventory turn ratios for Inditex and Zara (5.9 times in 2022 versus the industry average of 3.4) and lower markdowns (only 15 per cent of inventory was marked down to sale prices versus 35 per cent for the industry.)49 This strategic approach to offering customers on-trend and on-time fashion helped Zara derive an industry-leading 57 per cent gross profit margin for 2022 versus 40 per cent for the retail apparel industry.50 Clearly these policies were having their desired effect on Zara’s bottom line. Much of Zara’s success was attributable to its big, beautiful stores located in chic shopping districts in the world’s large urban centres. These stores were central to understanding customers’ changing fashion desires. Zara’s key employees, whom it called “commercials,” were adept at spotting and understanding new fashion trends, which Zara then manufactured and delivered to its stores in as little as two weeks.51 WOULD CUSTOMERS CARE? One of the big questions shaping the future of the fast-fashion industry became, Would fashion consumers, particularly those Zara targeted, adjust their buying behaviour based on the growing negative environmental footprint of the industry? Fast fashion, in many ways, democratized luxury fashion trends for everyday shoppers by allowing them to purchase and wear fashion that was otherwise perceived to be only available to the wealthy. Did customers understand the real cost of this fashion—that which was not reflected in the price tag? A 2018 report that surveyed seven hundred shoppers aged eighteen to thirtyseven found, understandably, that people prioritized ease of purchase and price over sustainability. The survey found that consumers ranked ease of purchase (95 per cent of those surveyed), price (95 per cent), uniqueness of product (92 per cent), and brand name (60 per cent) over sustainability (35 per cent).52 It would seem that only some consumers cared. A 2019 Harvard Business Review article pointed out that “a frustrating paradox stubbornly remains at the heart of green business: Few consumers who report positive attitudes toward eco-friendly products and services follow through with their wallets. In one recent survey 65 per cent said they want to buy purposedriven brands that advocate sustainability, yet only about 26 per cent actually do so.”53 This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 7 W344 The fashion industry, like others, was not highly motivated to drive and support ethical and environmentally sensitive fashion if consumers were not voting with their purses and wallets. Even simple changes like environmental labelling were slow to emerge. Members of the Sustainability Apparel Coalition (SAC), of which Zara was one, were slow to push for and adopt simple changes related to transparent labelling. Baptiste Carriere-Pradal, SAC vice president of transparency, set aside the notion of regulated or compulsory labelling, preferring less effective voluntary labelling. It would seem this was not coming to a store near you anytime soon.54 WHAT WAS NEXT FOR INDITEX AND ZARA? Where did Zara’s approach fit in a world where customers were shopping more and more online, while increasingly adopting a slow(er) fashion approach in the face of the ever-increasing and disastrous environmental impacts of the fast-fashion industry, all coupled with a growing (online) competitive environment? The fast-fashion landscape was changing. The world which Zara invented—and dominated—was changing. These changes threatened the very foundation of Zara’s business model, while at the same time opening the door to many new competitors, most of whom were not burdened with expensive global retail networks. AI was enabling key insights into changing fashion trends and desires, which previously had been primarily drawn directly from personal interaction with consumers in-store. Influentially, online apparel shopping was now a material part of the business. Importantly, how would regulatory frameworks focused on reducing environmental impacts influence these changes, and perhaps the speed of change? One thing was certain—the three big trends driving change were accelerating and virtually unstoppable: the industry’s growing environmental impact and social costs; the shift to online shopping; and the related emergence of new AI technology. Adapting to these changes was a growing necessity for success in the fast-paced fashion apparel industry. This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from W344 Page 8 EXHIBIT 1: INDITEX 2018–2022 SELECT FINANCIAL DATA IN € BILLIONS 2022 2021 2020 2019 2018 CAGR 2018–2022 Revenues Net sales 32.6 27.7 20.4 28.2 26.1 5% EBITDA 8.6 7.2 4.6 7.6 5.4 10% EBIT 5.5 4.3 1.5 4.8 4.3 5% Net income 4.1 3.2 1.1 3.6 3.4 4% Cash flow 7.3 6.5 3.9 6.7 4.4 11% 17.0 15.7 14.5 14.9 14.7 3% −10.1 −9.5 −7.6 −8.1 −6.7 9% 6,829 7,469 7,490 −5% Profits and cash flow Financial structure Group equity Net financial debt (cash) Store selling space (m²) Zara (including Zara Home) Total Inditex 3,027,914 3,141,790 4,473,358 4,762,157 Stores Zara 1,885 2,007 Total Inditex 5,815 6,477 Note: € = EUR = euro—€1 = US $1.07 effective March 01, 2023; CAGR = compounded annual growth rate; EBITDA = earnings before interest, taxes, depreciation, and amortization; EBIT = earnings before interest and taxes; m2 = square metres. Source: Created by the case author based on “Inditex Group Annual Report 2022”, Inditex, accessed April 24, 2023, https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2022/pdf/Inditex-group-annual-report-2022.pdf, pg 113, 86. This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from W344 Page 9 EXHIBIT 2: THE GROWING IMPACT OF URBANIZATION, 2022 Source: Bruno Venditti with graphics/design by Chrstina Kostandi, “Visualizing the Material Impact of Global Urbanization,” April 20, 2022, https://www.visualcapitalist.com/visualizing-the-material-impact-of-globalurbanization/. Image used with permission from Visual Capitalist. This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page W344 ENDNOTES 1 This case has been written on the basis of published sources only. Consequently, the interpretation and perspectives presented in this case are not necessarily those of Industria de Diseño Textil SA (Inditex), Zara, or any of their employees. 2 Inditex, Inditex Group Annual Report 2022, March 14, 2023, 29, https://static.inditex.com/annual_report_2022/pdf/Inditex- group-annual-report-2022.pdf. 3 All currency amounts are in US dollars (USD). 4 Inditex, Inditex Group Annual Report 2022, 18. 5 “FY2022 Results,” Inditex, March 15, 2023, https://www.inditex.com/itxcomweb/en/press/news-detail? contentId=3dbc9f5d- 2f00-46d2-bd45-8bb2ab945261. 6 Milos Djordjevic, “20 Amazing Zara Statistics That Show the Brand’s Value,” Fashion Discounts, April 8, 2022, https://fashiondiscounts.uk/zara-statistics/. 7 “Brands—ZARA,” Inditex, accessed March 21, 2023, https://www.inditex.com/itxcomweb/en/brands. 8 Inditex, “Market Capitalization of Inditex (IDEXY),” Companiesmaretcap.com, accessed March 21, 2023, https://companiesmarketcap.com/inditex/marketcap/. 9 H&M, “Market Capitalization of H&M (HM-B.ST),” Companiesmarketcap.com, accessed March 21, 2023, https://companiesmarketcap.com/h-m/marketcap/; Gap Inc., “Market Capitalization of Gap Inc. (GPS),”Companiesmarketcap.com, accessed March 21, 2023, https://companiesmarketcap.com/gap-inc/marketcap/. 10 Sky Ariella, “28 Dazzling Fashion Industry Statistics [2023]: How Much Is the Fashion Industry Worth,” Zippia, March 6, 2023, https://www.zippia.com/advice/fashion-industry-statistics/; “Apparel—Worldwide,” Statista, accessed March 21, 2023, https://www.statista.com/outlook/cmo/apparel/worldwide. 11 Bruno Venditti, “ This Chart Shows the Impact Rising Urbanization Will Have on the World,” World Economic Forum, April 26, 2022, https://www.weforum.org/agenda/2022/04/globalurbanization-material- consumption/#:~:text=Today%2C%20more%20than%204.3%20billion,rise%20to %2080%25%20by%202050; Neil Ruiz, Luis Noe-Bustamante, and Nadya Saber, “Coming of Age,” International Monetary Fund, March 2020, accessed March 21, 2023, https://www.imf.org/en/Publications/fandd/issues/2020/03/infographic-global-population-trendspicture#:~:text=In%20just%2030%20years%2C%20the,to%20reach%20just%209.7%20billion. 12 “Women Apparel Market: Global Industry Trends, Share, Size, Growth, Opportunity and Forecast 2023– 2028,” Research and Markets, accessed March 21, 2023, https://www.researchandmarkets.com/reports/5742971/women-apparel-marketglobal-industrytrends#:~:text=The%20global%20women%20apparel%20market,3.8%25%20during%202022%2D2028. 13 Arabella Ruiz, “47 Official Sustainable Fashion Statistics,” TheRoundUp.org, accessed March 22, 2023, https://theroundup.org/sustainable-fashion- statistics/#:~:text=The%20sustainable%20fashion%20industry %20is,expected%20to%20hit%20%2415%20Billion. 14 Research and Markets, “Global Plus Size Women’s Clothing Market Report 2022–2030: 25–45 Years Segment Dominated the Market and Is Expected to Continue,” GlobeNewswire, September 21, 2022, https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news- release/2022/09/21/2519850/28124/en/Global-Plus-Size-Women-sClothing-Market-Report-2022-2030-25-45-Years- Segment-Dominated-the-Market-and-is-Expected-toContinue.html. 15 Molly Warren, Stacy Beck, and Madison West, “The State of Obesity 2022: Better Policies for a Healthier America,” TFAH.org, September 2022, https://www.tfah.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/09/2022ObesityReport_FINAL3923.pdf. 16 “Global Fashion Industry Statistics,” FashionUnited, accessed March 22, 2023, https://fashionunited.com/global-fashion- industry-statistics; ReportLinker, “Fashion E-Commerce Global Market Report 2023,” GlobeNewswire, February 17, 2023, https://www.globenewswire.com/news-release/2023/02/17/2610646/0/en/Fashion-E-Commerce-GlobalMarket-Report- 2023.html. 17 “US Fashion Industry Growth Rate (2019–2023),” Oberlo, accessed March 22, 2023, https://www.oberlo.ca/statistics/fashion-industry-growth-rate. 18 GlobalData Plc, “APAC to Dominate the Global Online Apparel Market by 2025 ❘ GlobalData Plc,” GlobeNewswire, June 9, 2022, https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2022/06/09/2459994/0/en/ APAC-to-Dominate-the-Global-Online- Apparel-Market-by-2025-GlobalData-Plc.html. 19 Dana Thomas, Fashionopolis—The Price of Fast Fashion and The Future of Clothes (London, United Kingdom: Head of Zeus Ltd., 2019), 3. 20 Elizabeth Segran, “Zara Built a $20B Empire on Fast Fashion. Now It Needs to Slow Down,” Fast Company, July 7, 2019, https://www.fastcompany.com/90379824/zara-built-a-20b-empire-on-fast-fashion-now-it-needsto-dismantle-it. 21 Martina Igini, “10 Concerning Fast Fashion Waste Statistics,” Earth.Org, August 2, 2022, https://earth.org/statistics-about- fast-fashion-waste/. 22 Lena Milton, “Squeezing Us Dry: How The Fashion Industry Pollutes Water,” Sustainably Chic, January 4, 2023, https://www.sustainably-chic.com/blog/how-the-fashion-industry-pollutes-water. 23 Beth Howell, “The 7 Biggest Polluters by Industry in 2022, as Ranked in New Research,” Environmental Protection, October 17, 2022, https://eponline.com/articles/2022/10/14/the-7-biggest-polluters.aspx. 24 “UN Helps Fashion Industry Shift to Low Carbon,” United Nations Climate Change, September 6, 2018, This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page W344 https://unfccc.int/news/un-helps-fashion-industry-shift-to-low-carbon. 25 “CO —CO equivalent includes a number of greenhouse gases that contribute to global warming, quantified 2 2 into the CO2e metric,” in Olga Rabo, “What Is CO2e and How Is It Calculated?,” November 18, 2020, https://www.coolerfuture.com/blog/co2e (site discontinued); Don-Alvin Adegeest, “New Report Reveals the Fashion Industry Increased Its Emissions in 2022,” Fashion This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page W344 United, November 2, 2022, https://fashionunited.uk/news/fashion/new-report-reveals-the-fashion-industryincreased-its- emissions-in-2022/2022110266019. 26 Howell, “The 7 Biggest Polluters.” 27 Howell, “The 7 Biggest Polluters.” 28 Olivia Pinnock, “No One In Fashion Is Surprised Burberry Burnt £28 Million of Stock,” Forbes, July 20, 2018, https://www.forbes.com/sites/oliviapinnock/2018/07/20/no-one-in-fashion-is-surprised-burberry-burnt28-million-of- stock/?sh=4510c1da4793. 29 Thomas, 6–7. 30 FashionUnited, “Global Fashion Industry Statistics.” 31 Annie Palmer, “Amazon Unseats Walmart to Become the No. 1 Apparel Retailer in U.S., Wells Fargo Says,” CNBC, March 17, 2021, https://www.cnbc.com/2021/03/17/amazon-unseats-walmart-to-become-the-no-1apparel-retailer-in-the-us.html. 32 “Final Results for the Year to 31 August 2022,” ASOS, accessed March 22, 2023, https://www.asosplc.com/news/final- results-year-31-august-2022/. 33 Christo Petrov, “63+ Wowing M-Commerce Statistics for 2023,” February 7, 2023, TechJury, https://techjury.net/blog/mcommerce-statistics/. 34 FashionUnited, “Global Fashion Industry Statistics.” 35 Inditex, Inditex Group Annual Report 2022, 29. 36 “Number of Stores of the Inditex Group Worldwide from 2010 to 2021,” Statista, accessed March 21, 2023, https://www.statista.com/statistics/456409/global-number-of-stores-inditex-group/. 37 Zoe Ettinger and Erin McDowell, “27 Clothing Brands That Have Announced Major Store Closures,” Insider, January 7, 2021, https://www.businessinsider.com/clothing-brands-stores-youll-see-less-of-in-thefuture-2020-7. 38 Saabira Chaudhuri, “Zara Owner to Close 1200 Stores as It Outlines Post-Coronavirus Future,” TextileFuture, June 13, 2020, https://textile-future.com/archives/47406. 39 Samuel Kellett, “How to Use Artificial Intelligence (AI) in Online Fashion Retail in 2021,” Exponea, September 29, 2020, https://exponea.com/blog/impact-artificial-intelligence-online-fashion-retail/. 40 Inditex, “FY2022 Results.” 41 Emma Tidswell, “Less Is More: Fixing Overproduction in the Fashion Industry,” Good Maker Tales, accessed March 23, 2023, https://goodmakertales.com/overproduction-in-thefashion- industry/#:~:text=It%20is%20estimated%20that%2030,only%20sold%20at%20a%20discount. 42 “Advertising Expenditure of The Gap, Inc. 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This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from Page 53 W344 Katherine White, David J. Hardisty, and Rishad Habib, “ The Elusive Green Consumer,” Harvard Business Review, July– August 2019, https://hbr.org/2019/07/the-elusive-green-consumer. 54 Wicker, “Will Shoppers Ever Really Care About Sustainability?” This document is authorized for use only in Jurgita Sarkovaite's Innovation Impact Lab_MSCM17 at Universidad Del Pacifico from
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