MUSHROOM FARMING PROJECT
MUSHROOM GROWING: – THE SEVEN BASIC STEPS
The process of growing mushrooms is a mystery to most people. Although there are a few ―how
to grow mushrooms‖ tutorials around, many of them skip out on a lot of steps and make it seem
way easier than it actually is. (Add ―seeds‖ to straw and poof! Mushrooms!)
This leaves a lot of people in the dark. Admittedly, mushroom cultivation is quite different from
growing garden plants; but the process can be simplified all the same. There‘s no way a complete
guide to growing mushrooms could be described in one single post, but I hope to provide a basic
outline for people who want to learn more.
So – although there is an endless array of specific cultivation techniques in use around the world,
growing most mushrooms generally consists of the same 7 steps.
Step 1: Growing out a chosen mushroom culture on an agar filled Petri dish
This involves placing mushroom spores or a viable tissue sample of mushroom on a nutrient rich
medium. This needs to be done in an extremely clean environment so that bacteria and molds
don‘t land on your petri dish and out-compete the mushroom culture.
Step 2: Transferring the mushroom culture (known as mycelium) onto sterilized grain
Again, in an extremely clean environment, cut a sample of mycelium and transfer it into a jar
of sterilized grain. The mushroom mycelium will start to grow out, running across and devouring
the grain, eventually taking over the whole jar.
1
Step 3: Expanding the grain jar exponentially to create grain spawn
Bits of grain, now called spawn, can be used to inoculate numerous other sterilized grain jars,
exponentially increasing the volume of available spawn. One jar can typically be used to spawn
ten more jars of similar size.
Step 4: Spawning the grain into a suitable substrate and fruiting container
Once you have a satisfactory amount of grain spawn, it can be used to inoculate a substrate on
which the mushrooms will eventually grow. The type of substrate used is dependent on the
species of mushroom you are growing.
Typical substrates include straw, wood chips, or compost. Depending on the type of substrate
used, it will also have to be pasteurized or sterilized prior to inoculation.
Step 5: Allowing the mycelium to overtake the substrate
Once the substrate is inoculated, the mushroom mycelium will continue running, consuming
nutrients and engulfing the substrate. Once the entire substrate is engulfed in mycelium, you can
attempt to induce pinning.
2
Step 6: Inducing pinning of the mycelium by altering the environmental conditions
When the environmental conditions are suddenly changed, usually by dropping the temperature
and increasing the humidity, the mycelium will start to form little knots which eventually turn
into pins.
Step 7: Allowing the mushrooms to fruit. Harvest your mushrooms in subsequent flushes
Finally, many of these pins -if given the right conditions- will continue to grow, drawing up
water and nutrients from the substrate and rapidly turning into full sized mushrooms. If a proper
environment is maintained, a healthy substrate can produce numerous ―flushes‖ of mushrooms,
allowing the cultivator to harvest the mushrooms 2 or 3 times.
One incredible aspect of mushroom cultivation is the ability of the mushroom mycelium to grow
out exponentially, achieving mass thousands of times its original size. For example, a fingernail
size slice of culture from a petri dish will grow out to fill a quart size grain jar. That grain jar, in
turn, can be used to spawn ten more jars. Those jars can be used to spawn another 100 grain jars,
which in turn can be used to spawn 1000 jars!
Eventually, the mycelium will lose vigor and become exhausted, but it is nonetheless incredible
that a tiny piece of mycelium can go on to produce thousands of pounds of mushrooms. This is
in no way a comprehensive guide to learn how to grow mushrooms – but simply a basic outline
of the process.
Beginner's Guide to Growing Mushrooms
3
This guide is a step-by-step guide for beginners that want to grow mushrooms. I didn't come up
with most of these techniques (actually, probably not any of them) and will cite sources when
possible. I'm not trying to take credit for any of this, I'm only aggregating information to make
things easier for people interested in growing since there is a lot of content out there, so I'm just
going to simplify it down and show you what to do and when to do it. I recommend following
this exactly for your first attempt, and if you feel like tweaking it then do so on your next grows.
Step 1: Gather your equipment
The easiest, cheapest, and most accessible method is the "popcorn tek" . You can also use rye
berries or something else but let's just keep it simple and focus on the popcorn for this. To avoid
confusion, this list is only for the jar / inoculation phase. More stuff will be listed in another step.
Here is what you'll need:
Pressure cooker; 1qt widemouth jars; Scotch tape; Polyfill; A big clear storage bin; A
drill and hole saw ; Latex gloves ; Rubbing alcohol; Strainer; Aluminum foil; Hand
sanitizer ; A lighter; Lysol Neutra Air; Some spore syringes; Optional but useful: An
alcohol lamp
Step 2: Preparing the Jars
Once you have all your stuff, the first thing you'll want to do is soak 2 bags of the popcorn.
Simply dump 2 bags in a big bowl, fill it up with water about 2" above the top of the popcorn
and walk away for about 24 hours. 2 bags should fill up at least 7 jars, probably more.
Note: You will be filling your jars up approximately ⅔ full of the popcorn. Spore syringes are
typically 12ml - each jar will need just 2ml, so that is enough for 6 jars. Obviously if you have
10ml syringes, it's enough for 5. If you want to start with just 1 syringe, you can probably use 1
bag of popcorn and split it evenly between 5 or 6 jars.
While you're soaking your popcorn
You can be getting your jar lids all setup. You can get real fancy with jar lids, but let's just not do
that yet. You'll want to poke 2 holes in your lids, a large one in the center and a small one toward
the edge. You can drill then or punch them with a screwdriver and a nail if you want but just be
careful not to cut yourself, the edges are sharp!
The large hole in the center is for the polyfill, it allows a 'gas exchange' which basically means it
lets CO2 escape the jar without letting contaminates come in. The small hole is to put your spore
syringe through, so make it a bit bigger than the syringe needle but not too big. You will stuff the
polyfill in the center hole and put a piece of scotch tape over the inoculation hole. There are teks
on this out there if you have detailed questions on how to stuff that polyfill hole. Some people
use micropore tape over this hole, I haven't done that so I can't say if it's any more or less
4
successful but if you do use that, make sure you put a couple strips of it on because 1 strip seems
too porous to me. Note in the picture of the jar lid, it's on upside down - we do this because we're
not trying to seal this thing up like we're canning grandma's pears here.
24 hours later
Once your popcorn has soaked for 24 hours, dump it into a strainer and rinse it off real quick.
Then put it in a pot, fill it up with fresh water to about 2" over the top of the popcorn and turn on
your stove. (we are NOT pressure cooking this but you can use your pressure cooker if you don't
have a large enough pot, but make sure the lid is off!) Bring the water to a boil. Once the water
begins boiling, set a timer for 40 minutes. Make sure it stays at a nice low boil, nothing too
crazy, and keep stirring it now and then to prevent any burning on the bottom of the pot.
After 40 minutes, check a couple corns by putting your finger nail in them to make sure it can
somewhat easily dig in - you should be able to squish one between your fingers. When this is
ready, turn off the stove and dump your wet hot popcorn into a strainer. Do not rinse it here,
because as a friend told me its like taking dishes out of a hot dishwasher, the hotter it is the more
the steam comes off and dries it up. I like to get my corns up around the edges of the strainer and
mix them around with a metal spoon ever few minutes for about 15-20 minutes until they're
basically dry to the touch. The goal here is not to get any excess water in the jars.
Now, start scooping popcorn into the jars, get them around 2/3 full - you want room on top so
you can shake these jars later - don't overfill them. Close the lids upside down as shown in the
picture.
Once all of your jars are ready to go, cover them with your heavy duty aluminum foil.
Step 3: Pressure Cooking & Work Area Prep
Hopefully you read the manual for your pressure cooker, don't take my advice on how to operate
this thing. But now you'll want to add the minimum amount of water to operate it safely (there is
probably a line inside) and put your foil-covered jars in. Depending on the size of your pressure
cooker, you can fit probably up to 7 jars in at once. You CAN put a couple jars on top sideways.
Lock the lid on, do everything the manual says to do and then put it on the stove (or plug it in or
whatevever you do with the one you have). Wait until the pressure gauge gets up to 15psi and
start your timer for 50 minutes. Don't walk away from this thing, stay in the same room for the
next 50 minutes and adjust the heat on your stove as necessary to keep it at 15 psi, it's pretty easy
to do but just don't walk away from it. Maybe put on some headphones and listen to some Pink
Floyd or something for the next 50 minutes, keeping an eye on that pressure gauge.
Once the 50 minutes are up, turn the heat off and walk away. DO NOT OPEN THE PRESSURE
COOKER! I let this sit overnight personally, but a few hours will probably do as well. Of course,
make sure there is 0 pressure and it's cooled down for a long time before you open it or you're
5
going have a bad time. Also, you want the corns to be cooled way down so you don't inoculate
them and burn up your spores because well then you've wasted a lot of time.
While your jars are cooling you might as well start preparing your work area.
Get your big clear tub and cut some big holes in it that you can fit your hands through and work
in, this is going to be your still air box (there are teks out there for this if you need more
instruction). The idea here is that when you inoculate, you do it inside this box where
contaminates aren't blowing around. I use a big 5" hole saw for this, but if you don't have that,
feel free to look up "still air box tek" or check google images for some examples.
Put some foil on top of your table or your work area for the heck of it, spray some of your lysol
inside of your box, over the foil, and around the room. Sing "The Sound of Music" while you do
this if it makes you feel good.
Step 4: Inoculate... Then Wait!
Once your jars are nice and cool, go ahead and gently spray around the area with Lysol again
maybe 15-30 minutes before you start. Take a shower, put on some clean clothes and do your
final preparations.
Put the following inside your still air box:
Scotch tape; Lighter; and Your Jars
In a handy place outside of your still air box, have:
A folded up paper towel with rubbing alcohol on it; Your syringe(s) with the caps still on;
Gloves if you have them and Hand sanitizer
Now I get a little extra clean here, it might not be necessary but I would rather be safe than get
contaminants. What I like to do is: Wipe my hands and wrists with hand sanitizer, let it dry a bit
and put on the gloves. Then I reach in and pull the foil off of the tops of the jars and take it out of
the box. Next, I do a quick wipe over the scotch tape'd inoculation area with the rubbing alcohol,
and I take the paper towel with the alcohol out (so it doesn't get all flammable in there when we
use the lighter). I then remove the gloves. I now have a pile of garbage next to me, outside of the
still air box, containing foil, an alcohol soaked paper towel and a pair of gloves.
Now put on a fresh pair of gloves and grab your syringe. Shake the hell out of it hard and fast for
a minute or so, get the spores all spread out in the liquid, make sure there are no clumps.
Put your hands inside the still air box and remove the cap on the syringe. Light lighter, hold it
under the needle until it is red hot. Let the needle cool off a few seconds until its no longer red
and puncture the scotch tape on your first jar. Aim the needle toward the side of the jar, so the
spores/liquid spray against the glass and run down into the popcorn. Use only 2ml of liquid from
6
the syringe. Remove the syringe and quickly put a piece of scotch tape over the hole you just
punctured. Move that jar to the other side of the clean air box.
Now, light the lighter and get the needle red-hot again. You will do this every time between
every jar, to prevent any possible cross contamination between jars. Repeat until all of your jars
are complete.
Once all jars are complete, remove them from your still air box and put them up in a closet or
something, I put the jars back in the box they came in personally and put a towel on top. Ideally
you want to keep these at around 73 degrees farenheit but anywhere between 70 and 86 is
probably ok, some people say its good to have it in the 80s and others say it makes it more
susceptible to contamination. I do know low-mid 70s works fine.
Now go put all your crap away and wait! You should see mycelium forming somewhere in 5-10
days. If it comes early, welcome it. If nothing is happening in 10 days wait til 14 or so, maybe
more. But usually within a week you'll see something.
Step 5: Shake them Up... and Wait Some More!
If you're anything like me, you eagerly inspect your jars daily. Look for contamination. If there is
green stuff, bag the jar up and throw it out. Take the financial hit and don't open it and let those
nasty green spores out, just toss it. This happens from time to time, don't get discouraged if a jar
or 2 get contaminants, instead be happy about the jars that are not contaminated! There are other
types of contaminants, so do some research on this especially if you see anything not white in
there.
Once the jar is around 70% full of mycelium, shake it up. Shake side to side, bang the jar against
something (some say use a car tire) try not to shake it up and down, we don't want the corns to
hit the polyfill if we can avoid it. Once everything is all shaken, your jar will look a little sad but
don't worry just put it back where you found it and wait a couple days - your mycelium will be
spreading faster and better.
Wait until the jar is 100% colonized by mycelium and then... Wait 5 more days! Yep, wait 5
more days to make sure all of the corns in the middle that you can't see get colonized as well. But
don't worry, we have stuff to do during this 5 days to prepare for the next stage!
Step 6: Prepare Your Monotub(s)
This tek has worked perfectly for me: http://www.shroomery.org/10858/How-to-do-Coir and
that's what we'll be doing.
Time to do some shopping, you'll need:
A couple tubs depending on how many jars of corn you have. (If you have 4 or 5 jars you can use
7
1 tub, somewhere around the 66 or 70qt. If you have more, you can split it into 2. I have used
various sizes and personally I prefer clear ones so I can check on them without opening them.
Let's assume you have 4 or 5 jars right now)
Some coir bricks
Some vermiculite (the fine stuff not the chunky junk - go to your local hardware store and get a
giant bag of this to keep around.)
Some big trash bags; Micropore tape; Polyfill (you should still have); Drill - around 1" +/- (or a
knife to cut some holes); Scissors or a sharp razor; Latex gloves (for the hell of it); A 5 gallon
bucket with a lid; A thermometer (a cooking/candy type is perfect); Temp/humidity
monitor (pick one, doesn't have to be this one)
Preparing your tub(s)
Prepare your tub(s) by drilling 1 hole on each side, in the center about 4" from the bottom. Tape
over the holes with your micropore tape, I use 3 pieces of tape here so it‘s not allowing any fresh
air in, but does let CO2 out (you may be able to just use regular tape over these holes at this
stage, I have some tubs where I didn't have any holes in them yet and they worked fine)
Step 7: Prepare Your Substrate
Once your popcorns are 100% covered with mycelium (+5 days) it's time to add them to the tub.
Again, we are using this tek http://www.shroomery.org/9035/Popcorn-Tek-w-pics so read it, I'm
giving an abbreviated version here.
Pasteurize your substrate
Take one of your empty 1qt jars (if you have any around) and use it like a measuring cup, put 4
quarts of water in a pot and put it on the stove. While that's happening, open your coir bricks and
drop one into the 5 gallon bucket.
Using your 1qt measuring system, scoop up 2 quarts of vermiculite and put that in the bucket as
well (see tek).
Once the water comes to a boil, carefully remove it from the stove (you're a grown up you know
how to do this safely I hope) and pour it in the 5 gallon tub over the top of the brick of coir and
vermiculite. Put the lid on top of the bucket and walk away for about 30 minutes.
30 minutes later, open the bucket and stir around the now-swollen up coir/vermiculite - I use a
big metal kitchen spoon for this and I like to be wearing latex gloves for good measure. Just
make sure any chunks of coir get broken up, and close it back up for another 3 or 4 hours.
8
After 3-4 hours open up your bucket and check the temperature with your candy thermometer. If
it's over 80 degrees Fahrenheit, put the lid back on and wait another couple hours.
Once the coir/verm mix is 80 degress or less, we are ready to transfer the popcorn into the tubs.
Step 8: It Puts the Corns in the Tub
Assuming you have 4-5 jars of mycelium-coated popcorns: Wash your hands, put on your gloves
and dump the entire contents of your 5 gallon bucket into a large trash bag. Now, open up your
jars 1 by 1 and dump the corns into the bag with the substrate.
Once all of your corns are emptied into the bag, gently shake it around and kind of 'kneed' the
bag from the outside - just mix the corns into the coir.
Next, cut the bag down a bit so it's just a few inches above the coir / popcorn mix and place the
bag inside the tub. At this point, I like to trim up the edges so the bag is below the air holes
(remember the holes are still taped up, we do not want fresh air in this thing yet) You can tape
the bag up along the sides if you want, I don't do this but you can if you want.
Wedge the thermometer/humidity gauge in there somewhere, put the lid on the tub and go put it
away in a dark closet. I keep it at the same temperature as I kept the jars, somewhere in the lowmid 70s. Now you wait again, for another 7-10 days.
If your tub is clear you can peek inside a bit - the sides of the tub should be wet from the
humidity - you should basically see the dark coir becoming more and more consumed by
mycelium.
Step 9: Get a Little Fresh Air
After 7-10 days you should have a tub pretty much full of mycelium and its time to start
introducing fresh air (people call this FAE: Fresh Air Exchange). There are all kinds of opinions
and teks out there for this, I'm going to tell you what I have seen work.
At this point, remove the tape from the holes and fill them loosely with polyfill. Leave the tub(s)
out in a room that has some natural light in it, there is no reason to get crazy here with lighting
just put them out in a room somewhere that has a window in it if you can.
Use a timer like this to turn on a fan 3x a day. For example 8am for 30 minutes, 12pm for 30
minutes, and 7pm for 60 minutes. Don't put the fan super close, just have it on in the room. The
goal is to introduce fresh air, get rid of the CO2, yet keep the humidity that the coir/vermiculite
continues to provide in the tub. Check your humidity meter and make sure it is over 92%. It may
go down into the 80% - 85% while the fan is on, that's actually perfect and when the fan turns off
it should go back up in a couple hours to 95%+
9
If your humidity gets low (and stays low) you can mist the tub, but you shouldn't have to do that
if everything is setup properly.
So now we wait again for another 7-10 days.
Step 10: The Fruits of Your Labor
After about a week you will probably see some primordia forming in your bin, it's like little tiny
white balls on/in your mycelium, these are going to turn to pins. A couple days later you'll see
your first pins which will soon grow into big adult mushrooms.
The basics of mushroom growing
Whilst most of the world‘s mushroom supply comes from commercial mushroom farms,
growing mushrooms is not as simple as many people believe. In fact, mushroom growing is one
of the most technologically advanced and sophisticated agricultural industries in the world.
Commercial mushroom production costs are high and require extensive capital investment.
Whether you grow on a small scale as a hobby; or on a larger scale, modern mushroom
production is highly mechanized, requiring detailed knowledge and a high level of management
skill and commitment for success. This commitment is required from the start all the way
through to cropping and marketing.
In South Africa, the white button and brown mushrooms are mainly grown, both of these
belonging to the genus Agaricus. Furthermore, it is mainly a fresh market with only a small
percentage of SA‘s mushroom production being processed into the canned product, sauces and
other value-added products. It seems that the South African consumer has clearly made the
choice to eat fresh mushrooms rather than processed mushrooms.
Less than 5% of the mushroom market is taken up by so-called exotic mushrooms, including
Pleurotus spp (Oyster mushrooms) and Lentinula spp (Shiitake). Although these mushrooms
10
seem on paper to be less complicated to grow, one should not be deceived in thinking that it is an
easier option. Even though oysters grow on uncomposted cellulose material (no casing material
is needed), and Shiitake on woody substrates containing lignin compounds, they still require the
sophisticated technology to manufacture substrate and then climate-controlled growing rooms.
The basic process of growing Agaricus Mushrooms is set out below:
1. Compost
Mushrooms belong to the fungi kingdom, which are heterotrophic organisms which lack
chlorophyll and consequently produce their own food from organic material. In the commercial
production of Agaricus bisporus this food-and energy source is provided by a highly complex
substrate or compost. Selective compost for mushrooms is found at the end of a complex,
controlled biological process involving micro-organisms. When well prepared, it is a living
ecosystem that is suitable for the growth of mushrooms. To consistently prepare a high yielding
compost is probably the most difficult part of the growing operation. In the South African
industry, most growers produce their own compost unlike in Europe for instance where
mushroom companies specialize in making compost for resale or growing the mushrooms from
compost purchased from a composter. Unfortunately, in SA there is no compost readily available
to purchase so mushroom farmers will have to make their own compost first.
Ingredients
The basic ingredients for preparing a synthetic compost are:
Water – this is essential for the composting process and eventually for growth of the mushroom;
on average 70-90% of all the mushroom‘s water requirements are extracted from the compost
Straw (mostly wheat) – supplies the carbohydrates and provide the correct structure to allow
aerobic conditions Broiler chicken litter – acts as a nitrogen source and supplies microbes needed
for the composting process to take place Gypsum – added to improve the structure, buffers the
pH and aids the release of ammonia
The quantities used depends on the chemical analysis of the ingredients, in particular, the
nitrogen content of the chicken litter.
A typical formula is : 1 000 kg straw (moisture content 15%) 800 kg broiler chicken litter
(moisture content 40%, nitrogen 4%) 85 kg gypsum
11
The process of changing these ingredients into a suitable medium for mushroom production
takes place in distinct phases.
1.1. Prewet
The purpose of this phase is to wet and mix the raw materials. The biological activity does not
take place unless water and a supply of available nutrients are added. Straw bales are stacked
outside and continuously sprayed with water (often the run-off water from the compost yard
collected and aerated in a pit). After wetting for 5-6 days the bales are broken and part of the
chicken litter (30-50%) is mixed through. The portion of chicken litter applied depends on the
quality of the straw, the time of the year (in summer less is added in the beginning) and the
nitrogen content of the chicken litter. The initial wetting and mixing phase occurs over a period
of 7 days.
1.2. Phase I – Rick Method
After wetting and mixing the compost is formed into long narrow stacks or windrows (typically
1.8 – 2m wide and 2m high) either in the open or in a covered area. The stacks are mechanically
turned with compost turners
(usually every other day) and watered. At some point, the balance of the chicken manure is
added and mixed through. This process allows for micro-organisms to grow and reproduce. Their
activities cause the temperature in the pile to rise. The centre of the stack should reach 70 –
80oC. Much of the nitrogen present is ammonified. Such a conventional phase I usually takes
about 7 days.
1.3. Phase 1 – Bunker Method
Over the last few years, the use of specially built bunkers with underfloor ventilation and
sometimes with an open or partly open top has become popular. This is to make the process more
environmentally friendly by reducing the ―smell pollution‖ dramatically. After the initial prewetting and mixing of the raw ingredients (5-6 days) the material is built into a loose flat pile and
turned every other day for approximately another 7-10 days. At some point, the balance of the
chicken manure is added and mixed through. Temperatures in the pile are kept from exceeding
65oC in order to allow microbial activity. From there the material is filled into a bunker. Oxygen
levels in the bunker are monitored to ensure that compost does not go anaerobic. The supply of
air from below the pile results in the bulk of the compost reaching temperatures of more than
80oC. The wetted and mixed ingredients are usually taken out of these bunkers at 3-4 day
intervals and put back (total of about 7 days). The move during this process ensures thorough
mixing of the ingredients. At these high temperatures, microbial activity ceases and chemical
reactions take place leaving the compost with a dark-brown colour indicating caramelization and
browning reactions have occurred. At this stage the compost should be pliable, the water content
72-75%, the smell of ammonia very strong and the pH in excess of 8.
12
2. Phase II (peak heating/pasteurization)
Phase II is carried out under carefully controlled conditions mostly in bulk in specifically
designed tunnels with aerated floors. Phase II has two main purposes, firstly pasteurization (to
free the compost from undesirable microbes and pests) and secondly conditioning (to become
mushroom specific by getting clear of ammonia and free of readily available carbohydrates).
Through proper manipulation of temperature and ventilation, these two primary objectives are
accomplished.
Initially, the compost is allowed to settle so that it is more or less uniform throughout. This may
take up to 10 hours and is called equalizing or levelling. Thereafter the pasteurization (also
referred to as the kill) phase occurs where the temperature is allowed to rise to 60oC (either by
itself or by the introduction of steam). The temperature is held at this level for 8-10 hours. After
pasteurization, the temperature of the compost is reduced to 48oC for the conditioning process
which usually is about 4 days. In total, the phase II process usually lasts about 6 days. At the end
of the conditioning, the compost must be stable and free from ammonia. It is then cooled to
around 25oC by circulating filtered air through the material.
At this stage, the compost should have a moisture content of 68-72%, nitrogen content of 2.32.4% and pH of around 7.3 and ready to be spawned
3. Spawning & Spawn Running
Spawn (mushroom mycelium grown on sterilized grain), commercially
available, is mixed into the compost at a rate of 8 litres per tonne (0.5% by
weight). The spawned compost is filled into the final growing containers
(bags, trays or shelves) for incubation or ‗spawn running‘.
This part of the process takes place in purpose-built tunnels, spawn running
rooms or in the growing rooms. These rooms must be well insulated and equipped with airhandling systems to maintain temperature and relative humidity levels. The air that enters such
units should be filtered in order to eliminate dust that carries large loads of bacteria and fungal
spores that may cause disease. During this stage, mushroom mycelium is growing from the
sterilized grain into the compost. The end result is a compost completely colonized by mushroom
mycelium.
Compost temperatures during spawn run should be maintained at 25oC by using filtered air.
Compost temperatures normally reach a peak around the 9th day and it is advisable to have
cooling facilities in the spawn running room. The humidity in this stage is kept high and the
carbon dioxide concentration at 2% or higher. During the spawn run, which takes between
13
14 and 17 days, the mushroom mycelium colonizes the compost
4. Growing
To grow mushrooms economically all year round there must be a substantial investment into the
growing rooms. Growing rooms must be well insulated and purpose-built to ensure maximum
yield and quality of mushrooms. It is necessary to control the temperature, maintain high relative
humidity and supply adequate fresh air in the growing room. Air that enters a growing room
should also be filtered. Good lighting is needed to assist harvesters later in the harvesting of the
mushrooms.
There are three main types of growing room systems, these being the shelf system, tray system
and lastly the more economical to start up, the bag system. These systems have different
advantages and disadvantages and must be thoroughly researched prior to deciding which system
to adopt.
4.1. Casing
To stimulate the mushroom mycelium to convert from the vegetative to the reproductive phase, a
4-5cm thick layer of a suitable material needs to be applied onto the surface of the fully
colonized compost.
If spawn run was done in bulk the compost has to be filled into the growing containers,
compacted and then covered with a casing layer. The casing layer protects the compost from
drying out, and it provides a suitable microclimate for the pinhead to develop. The casing layer
serves as a water reservoir and therefore needs to have a high water holding capacity. It must
have a neutral or alkaline pH of about 7.5 and a low conductivity. Usually, the casing layer
harbours bacteria that stimulate pinhead formation.
The most popular and effective material used these days is a mixture of humified black peat and
sugar beet lime (for adjusting the pH), imported from Europe. In South Africa, no natural peat
moss is available, only limited resources of autogenous (reed sedge) peat.
The casing layer has to be applied as evenly as possible on a level and compact surface. The
mushroom beds should be watered as soon as the casing is applied. Frequent waterings should be
given up to about 2 days before mushrooms are initiated (pinning). The amount of water depends
14
entirely on the nature and structure of the casing soil. The aim is to raise the moisture level to
field capacity and to prevent water from running through into the compost.
During the pre-pinning, the compost temperature is maintained at the same level as during the
spawn running (25-270C) with a high CO2 level (2 – 3%) and relative humidity (90 – 95%).
4.2. Pinning
Once the mycelium has reached the surface of the casing (9-11 days after casing), the crop is
induced to fruit. This is done by reducing the air temperature to 16-18oC over 3-5 days and also
reducing the carbon dioxide concentration in the air to about 0.8-1% by generous ventilation.
This temperature ‗shock‘ combined with the lower CO2 leads to pin formation. At this stage the
humidity can be lowered to about 87-90%, a constant supply of fresh air to keep the CO2 below
2% and an air temperature of about 18oC will encourage pin outgrow and usually takes between
5-9 days. Higher CO2 levels and higher temperatures lead to fewer pins developing and lower
CO2 levels and temperatures will lead to more pins developing.
4.3. Cropping
Fruiting occurs in breaks or flushes beginning about 17 days after casing and continues at weekly
intervals. Generally, three breaks are picked and then the crop is removed to make room for the
next crop. Between breaks, the beds should also be watered. To reduce discolouration, chlorine
can be applied with the water at a rate of 90120ml/100litres.
In South Africa mushrooms are picked by hand and therefore it is a hugely labour-intensive
exercise employing many people in the areas around the farms.
Button mushrooms are picked when the cap reaches maximum size and before the veil opens.
They are individually packed with an upward, twisting pull. The lower part of the stem is cut off
with a sharp knife and the mushrooms are graded as they are picked and placed directly into the
marketing containers. The brown mushrooms are harvested as closed buttons and sold as
Portabelinnis or they are harvested as big open mushrooms sold as Portabellos.
It is of utmost importance that mushrooms should be handled with extreme care as they are
bruised easily. After harvesting they should be cooled as soon as possible, transported in cooled
trucks and displayed on refrigerated shelves. The most suitable temperature in a cold room is 24oC with high relative humidity.
15
5. Post Harvest
At the end of a mushroom crop, the growing room and its contents should be sterilized with live
steam. The compost temperature should be held at 70oC for 8-12 hours. This eliminates pest and
diseases that might have appeared during the growing cycle and also kills mushroom spores and
living mycelium that may transmit virus disease. The spent compost should be removed from the
farm as soon as possible as it poses a source for pests and diseases. Spent mushroom compost is
much sought after as a valuable weed-free fertilizer for gardens and in most cases sold to
landscapers to be put back into the earth.
6. Other considerations
It is very difficult to estimate the total cost of setting up a mushroom growing facility. Many
factors need to be considered, such as cost and availability of raw materials, the market size and
proximity, the composting process (the extent of mechanization, composting in ricks or bulk
tunnels, aerated floors, blending lines etc.), the growing system (bags, trays or shelves), labour
cost, size of the facility etc. A rule of thumb that the larger commercial mushroom farmers work
by is R2 million per ton of mushrooms that you want to grow per week. This investment can be
broken down as R1 million for the composting and Phase II sections and R1million for the
growing rooms. This excludes the costs for a packhouse, distribution fleets and staff buildings
such as change rooms and toilets.
Mushroom growing is a scientific operation which requires meticulous record-keeping to achieve
consistent results. Records and data sheets should be kept on each compost, from the time of prewetting until it is finally removed from the growing room as spent compost at the end of the
crop. Such data should include the composition of the compost, analysis of the raw materials and
the compost at various stages, growing parameters, performance of each batch of compost in
terms of quality of mushrooms, size and yield.
16
The basics of mushroom growing
Mycology (the study of Fungi) is rapidly gaining popularity as society comes to the realization
that fungi can provide several physical, cognitive, economic, environmental, and psychological
benefits. Fungi are some of the oldest organisms on the planet, and interestingly shared a
common ancestor with humans until about 1.5 billion years ago, when they split from the
―animalia‖ branch of the tree of life. This split occurred when organisms in the animal branch
began to encapsulate nutrients in a cellular sack (a stomach) for digestion, whereas Fungi
continued to digest at an individual cellular level.
Fungi propagate their genetic code through the dispersion of spores, and survive by consuming
non-living nutrients from their environment (mostly in the form of detritus and decaying
material). Therefore, they play a crucial role in the health of any ecosystem as they are the
primary decomposers of both plant debris like cellulose/lignin and dead/decomposing animal
tissue. Furthermore, they also have extraordinary capacity to recycle/decompose toxic material,
from petroleum oils, to nuclear waste.
The benefits which Fungi provide are not limited to the ecosystem level, and they can also have
significant benefit to both the physical and psychological health of an individual. Several
edible/gourmet mushroom species (Lions Mane and Shiitake in particular) promote increased
cognitive, cardiovascular, and mental health, while Psychoactive varieties (Psilocybe Cubensis in
particular) have shown remarkable results in the treatment of many psychological conditions.
These benefits have catalyzed many people in Canada to begin growing their own
mushrooms for use as nutrition OR medicine, and while the greatest information repository
known to man (the internet) is filled with forum posts/homemade tutorials, most of which give a
glossary overview and closer resemble an ―easy bake cookies‖ recipe, rather than an in-depth
manual/tutorial describing the intricacies of the mushroom life cycle.
17
There are several excellent resources that have been published in print (Like The Mushroom
Cultivator by Paul Stamets) however we at Spores Lab want to make information on how to
safely and efficiently grow your own mushrooms free for all individuals to benefit from!
Before we get into the specifics of cultivation, let‘s go over the basics of the mushroom life cycle
under natural conditions. If mushroom spores are successfully dispersed in an environment with
sufficient nutrients and specific environmental conditions, they will "germinate" and form what
is called ―mycelium‖.
Mushroom Mycelium consists of a mass of branching root-like strands, each strand a single cell
thick, called Hyphae. Mycelium can be described as the vegetative portion of a fungus (where all
nutrients and energy are put towards growth instead of gene propagation). A Mushroom culture
will continue to grow in the "mycelial state" as long as nutrients are available, and as long as the
environmental conditions are congruent with this ―stage‖ of the mushroom life cycle. This part
of the life cycle (where the mycelium is growing but no mushrooms are present) is often called
―spawning‖ or ―colonization‖.
The next step in the mushroom life cycle happens once mycelium has fully ―colonized‖ the
medium it is growing in. At this point (under natural conditions) changes in environmental
conditions (like temperature and humidity) will trigger the mycelium to switch from a
―spawning‖ (mycelium) state to a ―fruiting‖ (mushroom) state. In this fruiting state mushrooms
will grow out of the mycelial mat, and mushrooms will continue to sprout until all available
nutrients and moisture in the environment are depleted, or environmental conditions are changed
back to conditions congruent with mycelium growth.
Psychedelia.io is the premiere Canadian provider of all 'Classical' Psychedelics -- including but
not limited to Psilocybin Mushrooms, DMT, LSD-25, and Mescaline. Psychedelia is a collective
of highly educated Psychonauts, with designations including microbiology, organic chemistry,
and analytical chemistry. We leverage our academic backgrounds, and decades of experience
cultivating, extracting, studying, and synthesizing psychoactive molecules to provide reliable,
consistent, and safe Psychedelics to all of Canada.
We cultivate, extract, and synthesize our products in a sterile laboratory facility, with the utmost
care and attention paid to every portion of each process. Our products are offered with test
results, and shipped discreetly to your door anywhere in Canada! Whether you want to buy DMT
Canada, buy LSD Canada, Buy Shrooms Canada, Order Microdoses Canada, or just learn more
about the effects of these psychedelic substances, Psychedelia Canada is the place to go!
In addition to our online store where you can order psychedelics and have them shipped
discreetly to your door anywhere in Canada, we also offer a plethora of information on Shrooms,
DMT, LSD, and Mescaline (the 4 most popular psychedelics). Read peer reviewed studies, learn
what each different psychedelic feels like, how to prepare for a psychedelic experiences, what
the proper dosage is for each substance, and more.
18
Explained above is the mushroom life cycle under natural conditions, however when cultivating
in an artificial environment certain steps (like working from an isolated culture, or adding extra
nutrients via a fruiting medium before switching to fruiting conditions) can be taken to increase
potency and yield. Most people will begin the cultivation process, with a mushroom spore
syringe or Liquid Culture syringe, however a syringe is not the only way, and not necessarily the
most efficient way to grow mushrooms (especially at scale).
Advanced mycologists can clone mushroom tissue by placing it in an *agar medium*. This
process (called ―isolation‖) creates a culture that has a narrow genetic profile, and often results in
faster ‗colonization‘ time, higher yield, larger fruiting bodies (mushrooms), and increased
potency. Further isolation from the initial mushroom tissue sample can be done using agar, by
selecting especially strong mycelial strands and propagating these onto a new agar petri dish.
Another way in which yield can be increased when cultivating indoors is through the addition of
a ―fruiting medium‖ when the mycelium has completely colonized its initial medium. A fruiting
medium provides more capacity for water retention, provides some nutrients, and creates a larger
surface area on which mushrooms can form.
*Agar is a high-nutrient gelatinous medium, the caveat to working with isolations/agar is that a
―flow hood‖ is highly recommended. (a flow hood consists of a HEPA filter enclosed in a box
with a fan situated opposite the filter. This allows filtered are to be continually blown over your
workspace)*
Since this guide is aimed at the ―hobby‖ cultivator, we will cover the process of cultivation using
a Spore Syringe. That means this guide can also be applied if you are using a Liquid Culture
Syringe. If you are interested in learning more about agar cultures, or commercial scale growing,
please contact us!
Regardless of whether you will start with an Isolation in an agar medium, a Liquid culture
Syringe, or a Spore print/syringe, you will need to procure some supplies and equipment. We
recommend budding mycologists begin with a ―Still Air Box‖ (instead of a Flow Hood which
is quite expensive), a stovetop pressure cooker, and use jars with inoculation port lids
*An inoculation port lid has a rubber self-healing injection port for error-proof inoculation.
*A pressure cooker is used to sterilize the mediums that the mushrooms grow in
*A Still Air Box (SAB) is a container that provides an area with no airflow. One can be built for
~$50.
It is imperative that we now stress the importance of STERILITY. When you grow mushrooms,
you aim to create a perfect environment for fungal growth. Unfortunately this environment is
also ideal for bacterial spread, or the spread of other unwanted fungi.
19
Every cubic meter of air (in an unfiltered environment) contains millions of fungal and bacterial
spores, and each of these spores can potentially compete with your desired culture. You must
take extreme care to clean/disinfect all surfaces, tools, & body parts that may come into contact
or come near your mushroom culture. This is also why spawn medium and fruiting medium must
be sterilized/pasteurized in a pressure cooker, and why a SAB/Flow hood is so important.
STEP 1 - Preparing Spawn Medium.
Once you have sourced a sterilizer and built a still air box (or flow hood), the first step is to
prepare the spawn medium. There are several mediums that can be used, however if you desire
the maximum yield possible, Rye Grain Berries are the best option (Rye grain can be soaked to
an Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC) of ~ 47%)(higher than any other grain).
Organic, NON-Fungicide Rye Grain Berries
Begin by placing the grain in a 5 gallon bucket, then fill the bucket with cold water and pour out
the water (just the water) several times until the water is pouring out noticeably more clear than
at the start.
Then fill the bucket 6-8‖ above the grain level and leave the grain to soak for 24 hours. This soak
serves to hydrate the grain, and also causes the endospores of any contaminants which may be
present in the grain to germinate, so they can be killed during sterilization (an un-germinated
endospore CAN survive sterilization).
When you return (24hrs later) the water level will have dropped, meaning that the grain has
absorbed this moisture. Pour out the remaining water and fill the bucket 6‖ above the grain level,
this time with HOT water (NOT BOILING WATER, JUST TAP WATER AT MAXIMUM
HEAT).
Let the grain sit in this hot water for 20 minutes. This heat differential allows the grain to fully
―plump‖ and absorb the maximum amount of moisture possible. After 20 minutes pour out
the hot water and strain the grain using a colander until the colander stops dripping. Next spread
the grain out evenly in a tray/tub/tote and place it in a high-airflow area for about 1 hour to dry
the exterior of the grain berries (the container you will fruit in later on in the growing process
usually works well).
Grain drying in the Spores Lab Facility
Ideally you want the grain berry to be as saturated as possible, but little moisture on the exterior
surface of the grain berry (the industry term for this level of saturation is ―field capacity‖). A
rough ―rule of thumb‖ you can use to estimate the correct dryness is picking up a small handful
of grain then turning your hand upside down. A few grains should stick to your hand.
20
Now place the grain in your colonization container (we recommend using MYCO-PRO Spawn
Jars), seal the container, and place it in your sterilizer. Ensure that the lid of the sterilizer is
properly and evenly seated.
Cook times will vary based on whether you use an electric heated pressure cooker or a stovetop
pressure cooker.
If using a stovetop cooker, pressure cook at 15PSI for 2.5 hours.
If using an electric heated pressure cooker, pressure cook at 15PSI for 4 hours. *If your sterilizer
does not have the capacity to pressurize to 15PSI, add 1 hour to the cook time*
Also be cognizant of how much grain you put in the jar/bag, keeping in mind that putting more
medium will take longer for the container to colonize. We recommend filling a spawn jar ¾ full,
and filling a type 3T bag about ½ full of hydrated grain.
After the cook, let the sterilizer cool for ~1 hour and then clean the surface of the sterilizer
BEFORE opening it. When you open the sterilizer there is a brief pressure differential that sucks
some air into the sterilizer as the pressurized air inside the sterilizer escapes, and you want the
area/surface as clean as possible when this happens.
*If you are using a regular mason jar we recommend also using an inoculation port lid, and if
you are using a bag we recommend a Type 3T 0.2 micron filter autoclavable bag. If you are
using a bag we also recommend cutting a small slit in the corner of the bag prior to sterilization,
so the bag does not rupture during sterilization. Re-seal the bag (using an impulse sealer or a
―mushroom bag clamp‖) immediately after opening the sterilizer.
STEP 2 - Inoculation.
After you have removed the jars/bags from the sterilizer, you are now ready to inoculate!
Inoculation should be done within 24hr of sterilization. This is because of the finite amount of
moisture in the grain, moisture which has to last the entire life cycle. You will not only lose out
on potential yield if you wait too long to inoculate, but you will also be giving the mycelium
a more difficult environment to grow in.
Inoculation should ideally be done in front of a flow hood, or in a SAB, however if you are using
an inoculation port lid then a SAB/Flow hood is not totally necessary, but still recommended.
Begin by putting on your PPE and cleaning. Don't be afraid to ―overkill‖ for this step, as it‘s this
point where the risk of contamination is greatest. Wipe down the surface of the spore/liquid
culture syringe, the surface of the colonization container, your arms, and all surfaces in the area
with disinfectant. Gather your supplies and place them in the still air box, or intelligently
position them in front of the flow hood (with regard to the direction of airflow coming from the
flow hood). If using a SAB place all supplies in the box, then put the lid on the box, put your
21
hands in the gloves and liberally disinfect the interior of the box with an aerosol disinfectant
spray.
Unwrap the sterile 18ga needle (which is included in our spore/liquid culture syringe products),
remove the plastic Luer Lock tip from the syringe, and attach the needle to the syringe by
inserting and twisting the needle.
Sterilize the needle (with either heat or disinfectant spray) then inject the needle into the
inoculation port and depress the plunger of the syringe. (if you are using a jar with an inoculation
port lid). If you do not have an inoculation port lid we recommend drilling a small hole (1/4") in
the lid of the jar (if you are using a bag then the needle can be used to poke a hole in the bag).
Immediately cover this hole with Micro-pore tape after inoculation.
We recommend inoculating with at least 5mL of Solution per 1L of container space. You can use
more solution than this, and it will result in a faster colonization time (each of our syringes
contains 10mL of spore or liquid culture solution), but we don't recommend using less than this
amount.
STEP 2.5 - Colonization.
After you inoculate, shake the bag/jar to evenly disperse the liquid culture/spore solution, and
then leave the bag/jar in an environment which has the right conditions for colonization
(described below).
Colonize in an area that is mostly dark (the darker the better), has about 50% ambient humidity,
and has steady temperature between 75-77F (23.8-25C) I's crucial that the temperature
remains below 80F (26.5C) during the colonization stage.
Colonization from a spore syringe will take anywhere from 2-6 weeks depending on how much
grain is in your container, how much spore solution you inoculate with, and how optimized you
are able to make the environmental conditions.
Colonization from a Liquid Culture syringe will take anywhere from 2-4 weeks. LC syringes
will consistently colonize faster than spore syringes because an LC syringe contains an already
alive and growing mycelial culture.
The container is ―fully‖ colonized when you are barely able to see grain, and the majority of the
jar/bag is a solid block of white mycelium.
If at any point during the colonization period you notice a pungent odour coming from the
container, or notice any coloration that is NOT white mycelial growth, quarantine that container
from the rest of your operation immediately and dispose of it. It has likely become contaminated
and if you do not remove it from the area it will contaminate the containers around it.
22
STEP 3 - Making a Fruiting Substrate.
Once your colonization medium is fully colonized you are now ready to add a nutrient rich, high
water-retention, pH balancing fruiting medium to form what is called a ―Fruiting
Substrate‖. Like colonization mediums, there are many options for a fruiting medium, however
we recommend using our tried and tested MYCO-PRO™ Fruiting medium.
We have, after years of development, testing, and refining, created an ideal and easy to use
fruiting medium, which is a mix of Vermiculite, Coconut Coir, Spaghum Peat Moss, Worm
Castings, and Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3). Laboratory testing done on this medium after 4
flushes of mushrooms had already been harvested showed that there were still ample nutrients &
minerals left in the substrate, and pH was still well within the accepted range for fungal growth.
If you want to purchase the inputs and mix them yourself (instead of purchasing the medium
from us), here is the recipe Begin by mixing the Vermiculite and Coconut coir at a 50/50 ratio by volume (litres).
Next add 100 grams of powdered CaCO3, 500 grams of Peat Moss, and 300 grams of worm
castings for every 40 Litres of dry mix.
Then add 1.25 litres of water for every 4L of dry mix, and mix well.
Keep mixing and adding small amounts of water until the medium drips a steady stream
when lightly squeezed. The reason we recommend starting with 1.25L of water for every 4L of
dry mix, then adding water as needed is due to variance in hydration level of the ingredients from
different suppliers. Alternatively, if you use MYCO-PRO™ Fruiting Medium, simply add 1.25L
of water for every 4L of dry mix for pretty close to perfect moisture content.
When the proper moisture content has been achieved (when the mixture drips when lightly
squeezed) you can EITHER Sterilize the medium - by placing in a Type 14A 0.5 micron filter autoclavable bag and cook the
medium at 15PSI for 90 minutes.
Pasteurize the medium - by placing in a Type 14A 0.5 micron filter autoclavable bag and
cooking in a conventional oven at 180 Fahrenheit for 6 hours.
*If using a pressure cooker, don‘t forget to cut a small slit in the corner of the bag so it does not
rupture during sterilization*
Once you remove the sterilized fruiting medium from the cooker and allowed the medium to
cool, you are now ready to mix it with the colonized grain spawn to create a ―Fruiting Substrate‖.
23
This job will be very difficult to perform in a SAB, so we recommend it‘s performed in a clean
area, and preferably in front of a flow hood. Cleanliness is not AS crucial for this job (compared
to inoculation) as by this point the mushroom culture is established and can fight off potential
contaminants, however sterility is still very important and overkill doesn't hurt. Wipe down the
surface of the spawn bag/jar, the surfaces of the tray/tub/tote that you will fruit in, your tools,
your hands and arms, and the surface of the bag that the fruiting medium was sterilized in.
Position your supplies so that you don‘t have to reach over the fruiting substrate container to
grab them, and be cognizant of airflow if you are using a flow hood.
Begin by putting on your PPE (gloves, mask, hairnet) and placing the fruiting container (the
plastic tub/tote/tray that you will fruit in) inside a black plastic garbage bag. Reach into the
tub/tray/tote and tamp the garbage bag to the corners of the tray, being careful to touch the bag
minimally. Now cut along the top of the fruiting medium bag and pour this into the tub/tray/tote.
Repeat this process for the colonized grain bag or jar.
We recommend the mixture be roughly 25% colonized spawn and 75% fruiting medium.
Mix the two mediums well. You want everything to be as well dispersed as possible to allow
optimal colonization of the fruiting substrate in the shortest amount of time. After the substrate is
mixed well, tamp the surface lightly with a BBQ flipper so that it is as flat as possible. This is to
avoid water pooling during the incubation of the fruiting substrate (note - colonization/spawning
refers to one medium being colonized, whereas incubation refers to a substrate, or a mix of
mediums being colonized).
Now put the lid on the tray/tub/tote, cut the garbage bag about 2‖ below the lid all the way
around the tray, and remove the excess bag. Mark the date, strain, and any other relevant
information on the outside of the tub with a sharpie.
STEP 3.5 - INCUBATION.
After you mix your fruiting substrate in the fruiting container, leave it in an environment which
has the right conditions for incubation for approximately 7-10 days. Incubation should take place
in an area that is mostly dark (darker the better), has about 50% ambient humidity, and has
steady temperature between 75-77F. It is crucial that the temperature remains below 80F during
incubation.
You should also check the incubating tray/tub/tote periodically to make sure there is no water
pooling on the surface of the fruiting substrate. If water is pooling remove the lid, wipe any
water collecting on the lid, put the lid back on, and lower the ambient humidity slightly.
If at any point during the incubation period you notice a pungent odour coming from the
tub/tray/tote, or notice any discoloration that is NOT white mycelial growth, quarantine that
tray/tub/tote from the rest of your operation immediately and dispose of it. It has likely become
24
contaminated and if you do not remove it from the area it will contaminate the trays/tubs/totes
around it. The fruiting substrate is fully incubated when the surface is completely white with
mycelium.
STEP 4 - Triggering Fruiting.
Once the fruiting substrate is fully incubated you are now ready to trigger fruiting by changing
the environmental conditions.
The three major changes you will make are the humidity level, the light schedule, and
the amount of airflow.
These changes mimic the natural environmental changes that occur when a mycelial culture
reaches the ―edge‖ of the medium it is colonizing. A good analogy is a compost pile. When
mycelium begins life deep inside the compost pile it is in a dark and low-airflow environment.
As it grows towards the edge of the pile it is exposed to light and higher oxygen levels, which
trigger pinning. Adding humidity also serves to trigger pinning (which is why in nature
mushrooms often sprout after a heavy rainfall) and additionally can extend the fruiting period by
providing some moisture for the culture to absorb and turn into fruiting bodies (which are up to
90% water).
At this point you should switch from a constantly dark environment to a 12/12 light cycle (12
hours light 12 hours dark). Any light spectrum will work, however slightly ―cooler‖ lighting
between 6000 and 7000 Kelvin is ideal.
At this point you will switch the lid of the fruiting tray/tub/tote for a ―fruiting dome‖ to allow
more airflow to the mushroom culture. Usually using the same tray/tub/tote as you built the
fruiting substrate in, flipped upside down works well. Cut a 2‖ hole in each corner of the dome
and stuff this hole with Hi-loft Polyfil. This serves as a barrier for particulate
matter/contaminants but allows airflow. We also use plastic clips to hold the dome to the tray.
At this point the humidity in your tray/tub/tote environment should also be raised. Accomplish
this by misting the surface of the fruiting substrate daily, or whenever there is NO humidity build
up on the sides of the fruiting dome. Set your sprayer to create as fine of a mist as possible.
You do not want large droplets or pools of water on the surface of the fruiting substrate.
How much you will need to mist also depends on the ambient humidity and the amount of
ambient airflow in your growing space. You can skip a day of misting if there is excessive
humidity buildup on the sides of the fruiting dome or if there is water pooling on the surface of
the mycelial mat. Ideally you want to put as much (clean) airflow as possible through the
controlled dome environment, but you also want the highest humidity possible in the controlled
dome environment.
25
After approximately 7-10 days in these conditions small Primordia or ―pins‖ will form. These
will quickly grow into mature fruiting bodies within 3-5 days. You should cease misting the
surface of the fruiting substrate once pins begin to show, but still try and keep the humidity as
high as possible in the tray/tub/tote. You can do this by misting the sides of the dome (instead of
directly misting the surface of the substrate).
STEP 5 - Harvesting/Taking Spore Prints.
You are now at the most enjoyable and rewarding part of the cultivation process! Your patience
and hard work over the past weeks/months is finally paying off, and beautiful shrooms are
fruiting out of your fruiting substrate. You should aim to harvest your mushrooms right after the
―veil‖ separating the cap and stem breaks, and the cap begins to open.
Cut the mushrooms cleanly off at the base of the stalk using sharp scissors. Scissors with slightly
curved blades work excellently. Also try not to touch the surface of the mycelium when
harvesting, wear gloves when harvesting, and try to handle the mushrooms the least amount
possible. You should be harvesting a few mushrooms almost daily, as some caps will open
before others. When all the mushrooms in a ―flush‖ have been picked you can mist the surface of
the fruiting substrate again to keep the humidity as high as possible for the next flush!
Successive flushes will continue to happen until the mushroom culture has used all of the
available nutrients and humidity in the fruiting substrate. Typically a home/hobby cultivator
should be happy with 1-2 flushes before contamination starts to appear, at which point the
culture needs to be disposed of. If you are cultivating in a cleanroom environment you can get up
to 5/6 flushes.
If you will be taking a spore print you will need to let the veil separating the cap and stem fully
break and the cap open about ½ way. Then cut the cap off close to where the stem meets the cap,
and place the cap on a piece of tin foil. Leave the cap on the tin foil for about 12 hours (this
should also be left IN a SAB or in front of a flow hood). A good rule of thumb for knowing when
to cut the cap off is when the cap is at its most triangular shape (the cap starts as a concave bulb
shape and opens to become convex if you let it go long enough). The triangular cap shape occurs
at about the halfway point in this process and is ideal for catching the entirety of the spore print.
When you return remove the cap from the tin foil and the spore print will have been deposited.
You can now scrape the spores into a sterile aqueous solution (sterilized water) and draw the
solution into a syringe to create a spore syringe! Or you can keep the spore print for long term
storage (prints remain viable for up to 10 years, possibly longer)
STEP 6 - Drying Mushrooms
The drying process for mushrooms is extremely easy, just place the mushroom fruiting bodies in
a low humidity, moderate temperature, high airflow area for 2-4 days. Near a dehumidifier is
26
ideal, but if you do not have a dehumidifier near a fan will also work, albeit slower. Using a food
dehydrator will also work, if you have one. If using a dehydrator simply place the mushrooms in
the dehydrator for 6-8 hours. They are dry when the stems crack when the mushroom is bent.
How to grow mushrooms
In this section we have compiled a series of articles covering topics which are often asked by
both beginning and advanced mushroom growers alike. There are many and varied techniques
which can be used to cultivate mushrooms and other fungi, throughout the course of
experimentation you will discover the methods and techniques which work best for you in terms
of yield, effort and consistency.
Beginning with the first set of guides which discuss how to use a mushroom grow kit,
maintaining humidity, opening a kit and some of our most frequently asked questions.
The Basics of Mushroom Cultivation
Unless you‘re a researcher approved by the FDA to conduct research on psilocybin or you‘re a
part of Oregon‘s fledgling medicinal psilocybin program, cultivating psychedelic mushrooms in
the United States is illegal. In fact, in most places in the US, it carries significant jail time. Magic
mushroom cultivation is legal in Austria, The Bahamas, Brazil, the British Virgin Islands,
Jamaica, Nepal, Peru, and Samoa. This article in no way promotes cultivation of psychedelic
mushrooms.
That said, the cultivation process is similar to growing other species of mushrooms, and it begins
with compost. The makeup of that compost may vary, but it usually contains a mixture of damp,
decaying material. Both currently and historically, manure has been a common choice in the mix.
27
Once that compost has broken down sufficiently, mushroom growers will put the material
through a second round of composting that will use heat to pasteurize the material and kill
unwanted organisms.
Next, mushroom spores need to be spawned into mycelium. This can be done by sterilizing grain
and placing it into a sterilized container and then exposing it to mushroom spores. With the
container sealed to prevent unwanted spores and microorganisms, the spores are given the
chance to grow into mycelium and spread.
Once the grain is overtaken by the mycelium, it is called spawn. Spawn can be spread out over
the compost and given a chance to grow throughout.
After the spawn has spread throughout the top layer of the compost, a new layer called casing is
spread over the top. It usually contains a mixture of peat moss and vermiculite. This is the layer
that mushrooms will eventually grow on.
After a few weeks, the first tiny mushrooms should start to appear. This phase is called pinning,
since the first sprouts look like small pins. The carbon dioxide content in the growth environment
will determine when this occurs, but it usually happens with a very low concentration of carbon
dioxide. Once the pins start to appear, it‘s time to introduce fresh air.
Finally, the mushrooms will continue to grow and develop into the familiar fungus on the
surface. Once they‘re fully grown, they‘re ready for harvest.
This broad overview applies to many species of mushrooms, and is not intended to be a guide on
how to break the law. Leave the cultivation and scientific exploration to the legally backed
experts.
Commercial Mushroom Cultivation Guide 2022
Mushroom cultivation is one of the most significant agriculture businesses in the world.
Mushroom Cultivation History
28
The first mushroom, ‖ Auricularia auricula,‖ was cultivated about 600 A.D. Later, around 800900A. D. ―Flammulina velutipes‖ were cultivated in China.
In India, commercial mushroom farming started recently, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab, Haryana,
Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka Andhra Pradesh is a major mushroom
producing state.
Nutritional value of mushrooms
1.
Mushrooms contain more protein than fruits & vegetables
2.
Mushrooms are low in cholesterol.
3.
Mushrooms contain a lot of vitamins B, C, D, riboflavin, thiamine and nicotinic acid.
4.
Mushrooms are also an excellent source of iron, potassium, and potassium along with
folic acid, a component known for improving the blood and avoidance deficiencies.
People suffering from sickle cell anaemia or carriers of this trait should consume a lot of
mushrooms.
Mushrooms are recommended as healthy food by the Food and Agricultural Organisation of the
United Nations.
Mushroom Farming Business Plan:
How to start a mushroom business
Growing mushrooms can be a very enjoyable way to earn a living. The problem is that there‘s
a lot to learn. Without creating a proper mushroom growing business plan, it‘s hard to be sure
that you understand everything that‘s required. To have a successful mushroom farm, you‘ll need
to understand the production costs and overhead expenses of running your business. Also, you‘ll
need to understand who your competitors are and how to price your product.
Thankfully, creating a plan for growing mushrooms isn‘t difficult once you know what it needs
to include. In this article, we‘re sharing a mushroom growing business plan model and
everything else you‘ll need. But first, let‘s discuss whether a mushroom growing business makes
sense for you.
Is a Mushroom Growing Business Right for You?
Not everybody is an ideal candidate for a mushroom growing business. Here are some signs that
growing mushrooms is right for you.
29
(i)
You‘re highly motivated and self-driven. For any kind of entrepreneurial venture, your
success or failure depends entirely on you.
(ii)
For your mushroom growing operation to survive and grow, you‘ll need to be willing to
devote a lot of time and energy to your mushroom growing business.
(iii)
You love working with your hands. Any kind of farming is quite physical work and
mushroom growing is no exception.
(iv)
You‘ll be getting dirty and lifting heavy things pretty much on a daily basis. So it‘s not a
suitable career for someone who wants a desk job.
(v)
You already have some experience growing mushrooms. Before you start growing
mushrooms on any kind of large scale, you should‘ve already successfully grown smaller
batches of mushrooms. Not only will this help you to learn more about the mushroom
growing process, but it‘ll help you to figure out if growing mushrooms is really what you
want to do full-time.
(vi)
You‘re comfortable working several different roles. When you start your mushroom
farm, you probably won‘t have the money to hire staff. You‘ll be preparing substrate,
harvesting mushrooms, cleaning, placing orders and many other tasks all by yourself.
(vii)
You enjoy dealing with people. To run a successful mushroom farm, there‘s more than
just growing the mushrooms.
(viii) You‘ll also need to network and market your product to chefs, wholesalers, buyers at
farmer‘s markets and more.
Learn the five things I wish I new before I started growing mushrooms for a living.
1.
How Do I Start a Mushroom Farming Business?
When you‘re first starting a mushroom growing enterprise, there are a number of factors to
consider. Why do you want to do it? Are you passionate about farming or growing mushrooms?
Do you think it‘ll be very profitable? It‘s important to figure out your motivations for starting a
mushroom business.
What will you be selling? We recommend starting off by selling oyster mushrooms because
they‘re easy to grow. Then you can branch out into growing shiitake, lion‘s mane and other
varieties as well. However, it‘ll also depend on what kind of mushrooms there‘s a demand for in
your area.
30
2.
What are the market conditions in your area? Are there any existing
mushroom businesses in the area that you’ll be competing with? If so, how
will you differentiate yourself from them?
If mushroom growing is already highly competitive in your area, you may even want to consider
relocating to somewhere with less competition. Who are your potential customers? How
many restaurants, grocery stores and other customers are in your area that will want to buy your
mushrooms?
Large cities will have more customers, but also more growers to compete with. Smaller cities
may not have enough demand to support your business.
3.
Large-scale growing vs. small-scale growing. Large-scale mushroom
farmers tend to focus on growing button mushrooms, cremini and portobello
mushrooms. They can make lots of money by supplying large national grocery chains, but
there‘s also a large upfront investment in terms of equipment and staff.
4.
What are your finances like? Do you have the required money to invest in
starting your mushroom business, or will you need to get a loan? Have you worked out the
prices you will charge or the amount of mushrooms that you expect to sell each week?
5.
Find out more about low tech mushroom farming.
How much does it cost to start a mushroom farm?
You may be able to start a very small mushroom farm with just a small investment. There are a
lot of factors to consider when it comes to the finance side of your mushroom growing business.
Production costs – This includes the cost of buying spawn, substrate, grow bags, disinfectant,
gloves and other consumables that you‘ll use in your business. The more mushrooms that you
grow, the more of these things you‘ll have to pay for.
Business overheads – This includes things like rent, taxes, telephone bills, utilities, employee
labor and interest on loans. You‘ll need to pay for these things regardless of how much — or
little — you‘re producing. It‘s difficult to give an estimate of how much it will cost you to get
started. Everyone‘s situation is different and costs can vary a lot.
Someone who is starting off in a shed or garage that they already own might only need to invest
in the equipment and materials that they‘ll need.
When you‘re designing a Low Tech Mushroom Farm, you may be able to repurpose a lot of
space and equipment that you‘ve already got. Larger mushroom operations in the heart of big
31
cities like New York or London may need to pay thousands of dollars per year in rent alone. The
more you grow, the more your materials will cost as well.
What Prices Should You Charge?
Depending on where in the world your mushroom business is located, we‘ve seen oyster
mushrooms range in price from about $5 to $15 per pound, or £7.50 to £24 per kilo. If you‘re
selling directly to customers, you may even be able to charge more than that.
The existing market in your area will largely dictate how much you can charge for your
mushrooms. In an area with lots of competition, you may need to offer your mushrooms at a
slightly lower price. Although if your mushrooms are fresher and of higher quality than your
competitors, then you can still charge more for them.
Budgeting for Your Mushroom Business
Running any type of business requires careful budgeting and mushroom growing is no exception.
You‘ll need to work out the cash flow for your business as well. This is all of the expenses and
income that will flow in and out of your business in a given week, month, or year.
Obviously, you‘ll want more money coming into your business than going out, since you‘re
trying to earn a profit! In the beginning, you may not be able to create a completely accurate
budget or cash flow plan. But it‘s important to research as much as you can and try to get it as
accurate as possible. You don‘t want to be surprised later when it costs you twice as much to run
your business as you had expected.
Creating a Mushroom Growing Business Plan
Making a budget and figuring out what your cash flow will look like is just one part of a business
plan. A good business plan will also help you assess your competition, create a sales and
marketing strategy and much more.
If you want to get a loan from a bank, they will almost certainly want to see a business plan.
This shows them you‘re serious about the business. And that you‘ve thought out all of the pros
and cons.
A business plan also helps you to figure out if it‘s realistic that you can turn your mushroom
growing operation into a profitable business. If you create your business plan and realize there‘s
no way to be profitable given the costs or demand in your area, it may be worth quitting while
you‘re ahead. We recommend checking out a sample template on how to write a mushroom farming
business plan, which you can find here.
32
How much investment do you need for a mushroom
farm?
For a small Low Tech Mushroom Farm, we recommend having an investment of at least $2,000
or £1,500 to get started. It‘s a fairly lean budget, but with some creative planning, you should be
able to make your money stretch and get everything you need to start growing mushrooms.
You can always start with just the bare essentials to start with and then add some ―nice to have‖
items later as your business starts to grow. We discussed some of the costs of setting up a
mushroom growing business above.
Now let‘s go into some more depth in terms of factors to consider.
1. Space required. 1 ft2 can produce anywhere from 7 to 25 lbs of mushrooms per year. 1 m2
can produce 35 to 125 kg of mushrooms per year.
On our own farm, we‘ve found that we can produce toward the high end of those amounts. But
that includes only productive space. Depending on how much room you want to leave for
walkways and other empty space, your production may be closer to the low end of that range.
2. Water required. To grow 1 lb of oyster mushrooms will require 1.8 gallons of water. That‘s
the equivalent of 15 liters of water to grow 1 kg of mushrooms. That amount of water includes
grow room humidification, substrate hydration and pasteurization, plus cleaning. This is much
less than pretty much any other crop, so the water costs will be negligible.
3. Energy required. Growing 1 lb of mushrooms requires about 1 kWh of energy. 1 kg of
mushrooms will require 2.2 kWh of electricity.
4. Location. Your location costs can range from $0 if you‘ve already got somewhere to grow, up
to thousands of dollars in rent per month. We recommend starting small and perfecting your
processes before renting a large space for your mushroom growing business.
5. Labor. If you want to hire staff, you‘ll need to pay a minimum wage dictated by your
government. There are other payroll costs such as employment insurance and taxes to consider as
well. You can cut the labor cost by going into business with one or more partners instead of
hiring staff. That way you split profits that the business generates, as opposed to paying an
hourly rate.
6. Time commitment. Even a small mushroom growing business will take hours of your time
each week. You‘ll need to prepare substrate, monitor mushroom growth, harvest and clean on a
regular basis. There‘s an opportunity cost associated with any time you spend growing
mushrooms, that you could be using for something else.
33
7. Licenses and permits. Your federal or local government may require you to have certain
licenses and permits to run a business or grow food. Check what your local laws are. These may
add up to a few hundred dollars or pounds per year.
8. Packaging. You‘ll need some way to package your mushrooms. Depending on your
customers, you may need bags, plastic containers, cardboard boxes, or some other way to display
and transport your mushrooms. Poly or cellophane bags will only cost a few cents each. Plastic
clamshell containers may cost $0.10 to $0.25 (7p to 20p) each.
9. Marketing. Customers need some way to find out about your business. These costs include
things like setting up a website, decals for vehicles and banners for your table at farmer‘s
markets. You may also want to advertise on social media, or via local radio or newspaper ads to
let people know that you‘ve got mushrooms for sale. Expect to invest in advertising materials
upfront and on an ongoing basis each month.
10. Record keeping. You‘ll need some kind of accounting or record keeping software to keep
track of all of your purchases and sales.
Supplies Needed
There‘s a wide range of different supplies you‘ll need to get your mushroom farm up and
running.
General tools.
This includes things like a mop and bucket, screwdrivers, electric cycle
timers, a humidifier and a respirator. Most of these items can be bought at a local hardware store.
Materials to create your utility, inoculation and fruiting rooms
This includes things like vinyl flooring or waterproof floor paint, a sink, plumbing pipe, a 45
gallon food grade steel drum, shelving, lighting, fans and more. These items can be bought at a
hardware store or builder‘s merchant.
Substrate. You‘ll need to decide if you want to grow on cardboard, sawdust, coffee grounds, or
some other substrate. Then figure out where you can source them locally in a cost-effective way.
Mushroom spawn and grow bags. These items should be bought as locally as possible.
Particularly for fresh mushroom spawn, you want to minimize the travel time as much as
possible. That way you‘ll end up with a healthier and less stressed out spawn. Look for suppliers
in your region, state, or province first. Then expand to a country-wide search if you can‘t find
anything more local. Learn more about the costs involved when producing mushrooms.
34
Is mushroom cultivation a profitable business?
Cultivating mushrooms can be very lucrative and profitable. On our small mushroom farm,
we‘ve been able to generate more than $200,000 (approximately £150,000) in sales per year.
The typical production cost for oyster mushrooms is about $2 per pound. You can sell those
same mushrooms for $12 to $20 per pound (£3.20 to £5.50 per kilo). In other words, you‘re
getting anywhere from $6 to $10 of profit out of your business for every $1 that you put in.
Different Mushroom Products You Can Sell
Do you want to really take your mushroom growing business to the next level? One way to really
increase your sales is to broaden the types of products that you‘re offering. There can be a fine
balance here, as you don‘t want to put too much work into producing a giant catalog of
products. But we recommend experimenting with these to see which will generate lots of sales in
your particular area.
(i)
Fresh mushrooms: This is the most basic way to sell your mushrooms. This doesn‘t
require any time to produce a value-added product like the other items on this list. Simply
harvest your mushrooms and pack them up.
(ii)
Dried mushrooms: Dried mushrooms are particularly good if you find that you‘ve got
a surplus of fresh mushrooms in any given week. Fresh mushrooms have a short shelf
life. Drying them can extend their shelf life to weeks or months.
(iii)
Mushroom jerky.
Adding some soy sauce, vinegar and spices to your dried
mushrooms can transform them into mushroom jerky. This specialty product is increasing
in popularity with vegetarians as an alternative to beef jerky. One pound of mushrooms
will dry down into about three ounces or 85 grams of mushroom jerky once most of the
excess water has been removed. But you can sell this amount of mushroom jerky for $12
(£8.75) or more.
(iv)
Other mushroom snacks: You can get creative and come up with your own types of
mushroom snacks to sell. Everything from mushroom crisps to meal replacements
can do well with health-conscious customers.
(v)
Supplements: Medicinal mushrooms like reishi or lion‘s mane can be dried, powdered
and put into capsules.
(v)
Mushroom kits:
Selling mushroom kits allows people to enjoy watching
mushrooms grow in their own home. It also makes your job easier and shortens the
growing cycle, since you won‘t need to fruit them yourself.
35
(vi)
Ready-to-fruit substrate.: Supply other growers in your area with substrate and allow
them to grow their own mushrooms. Be aware that you might be creating more
competitors for yourself if you decide to go this route! Although if you find you prefer
mixing and bagging up substrate compared to incubation and fruiting, you could turn this
into an entire business on its own.
(vii)
Mushroom farm tours:
Farming mushrooms is seen as a quite rare and mysterious
business. Many people may never stop to think of where mushrooms come from.
Children and adults alike may want to come visit your farm and see what your day-to-day
operations look like. Consider adding a small gift shop at the end where they can buy
mushrooms, kits and other products.
(viii) Educational workshops:
Schools and day camps may be willing to pay to have you
come in and give a demonstration on how mushrooms grow. Or a teacher may make it
into a field trip for their students to come visit you.
What conditions are needed for a mushroom to grow?
Mushrooms require different conditions depending on which stage of the growing process
they‘re at. Your mushroom growing business will need a mixing and inoculation space, an
incubation room and a fruiting room.
A mixing and inoculation space is any clean area where you can mix mushroom spawn with
substrate and place it into bags. The conditions in this room just need to be comfortable for you
to work in.
The incubation room should be dark with a temperature between 20 to 24oC (68 to 75 F). High
CO2 content is an added bonus. This is where the mushroom spawn will colonize the entire
substrate in preparation for fruiting. Once your mushroom grow bags are completely colonized,
they‘re moved to a fruiting room.
The fruiting room should have 80 to 90% relative humidity. The mushrooms also need some
lighting to trigger pinning and fruiting. Either LED rope lights or fluorescent lights in a
waterproof housing will work.
A fruiting room also needs lots of air exchange. You‘ll need fans to bring fresh air in and pump
CO2 rich air out.
Which Mushrooms Should You Grow?
We find that oyster mushrooms are almost universally the best type of mushrooms for new
growers to start with. They‘re easy to grow, they grow quickly and they‘re in high demand. They
also have relatively low production costs associated with growing them.
36
There are lots of different oyster varieties including pink, yellow, brown, white and blue.
Growing a variety of different oyster mushrooms makes for an eye-catching display at farmer‘s
markets. Other gourmet mushroom varieties that are popular among both chefs and consumers
are shiitake, king oyster and lion‘s mane.
Medicinal mushrooms are another option to consider. Mushrooms like reishi, turkey
tail and chaga are very popular due to their health benefits. Medicinal mushrooms are typically
sold dried or powdered, so you can also sell them online to a national or international customer,
as opposed to just locally.
We recommend avoiding button mushrooms, portabella mushrooms and chestnut mushrooms.
These are the most commonly cultivated mushrooms on a large commercial scale. It‘s difficult to
compete on price with the massive button mushroom farms that already exist.
How to grow mushrooms
If you want to have a successful business that sells mushrooms, then you‘ll need to get
comfortable with growing them! Here‘s a basic overview of the steps in growing mushrooms.
Specifically oyster mushrooms in this example.
1. Order Your Spawn, Substrate and Materials
You‘ll need to get at least your spawn, substrate and bags to start growing mushrooms. We
recommend starting with ready-to-inoculate spawn. You can start with a sterile culture, but
there‘s a lot more that can go wrong in the process and it‘s not as beginner-friendly. You‘ll also
need a substrate like wood chips or straw. We recommend straw. Plus bags to store everything
in.
2. Get Your Substrate Ready
You‘ll want to chop your straw or other substrate into small pieces. Then get it wet and heat it in
boiling water for at least 30 minutes to pasteurize the substrate. This will create a Low Tech
pasteurization and kill off most other mold or fungi spores that could contaminate your
mushroom bags. Once you‘ve pasteurized your substrate, spread it out on a clean table and let it
cool down to room temperature.
3. Pack the Substrate and Spawn Into Grow Bags
Put an inch or two of substrate into your bag. Then sprinkle a layer of spawn on top of it. Repeat
these alternating layers until you‘ve almost filled up the bag and then tie it shut.
4. Incubate Your Bags: Place your bags into an incubation room with the conditions that
we discussed earlier. Be especially sure to cover up any cracks around windows or doors so that
37
light can‘t get in. Once your bags are completely colonized with white mycelium, they‘re ready
to fruit.
5. Fruit Your Mushroom Bags
Once fully colonized, it‘s time to move your bags to a fruiting room. Optionally, you may want
to shock the bags by placing them in a large tub of cold water for an hour or two before they go
into the fruiting room.
Once your bags are hung up in the fruiting room, cut holes in the bag where the mushrooms can
pin and grow out of. Learn how to set up your fruiting chamber in our guide How to Build a
Mushroom Fruiting Chamber: 7 Steps.
6. Harvest Your Mushrooms
When your mushrooms are ready to harvest, simply twist them off near the base of their stems.
With oyster mushrooms and most other varieties, there‘s a narrow window that‘s ideal for
harvesting.
Harvest too early and your mushrooms won‘t have reached their maximum size. Too late and
your fruiting room will end up getting covered in spores. It‘s best to check on your mushrooms at
least a couple of times per day when you suspect they‘ll be ready to harvest soon. Now you‘ve
got fresh mushrooms and all that‘s left to do is sell them.
Common Mushroom Growing Problems
Here are some common mistakes made by new mushroom businesses and how to avoid or
troubleshoot them.
1. Starting too big. There‘s a good chance that you‘ll run into problems and failures when first
starting your mushroom growing business. It‘s best to fail small when just getting started, instead
of having a catastrophic loss of a larger crop. Be sure that you‘re comfortable with the entire
mushroom growing process and have been through it a few times before expanding your
operations.
2. Investing too much in equipment from the start. Mushroom growing is one business that
you can really bootstrap and start with minimal investment. While it might be nice to have all
the best equipment, it‘s possible to run your business without most of it at the beginning.
Figure out which equipment is absolutely needed for the techniques and varieties that you want
to use. Try to do without anything extra in the beginning if possible. You can always reinvest
profits back into the business later on, instead of needing to take out a loan in the beginning.
38
3. Trying to learn it all yourself. There are plenty of people out there who have all of the
knowledge you‘ll need already. There‘s no need to try to figure everything out from scratch. Our
mushroom growing courses can help to dramatically cut the learning curve. Plus you can learn
from our mistakes and avoid wasting your own time or money.
Final Thoughts
Growing mushrooms can be a rewarding and profitable business. Like any type of business, you
don‘t want to go into it blind. It‘s important to create a business plan and do a thorough analysis.
That includes figuring out who your customers are, what types of mushrooms will sell in your
area and what your expenses will be.
How to Start a Mushroom Farm
Introduction
Mushroom farming is an exciting new industry that continues to gain popularity among
entrepreneurs looking for innovative ways to diversify their farms or operations by producing
fresh mushrooms; if you're wondering how to start a mushroom farm then you're in luck! Fungi
Farm is an industry leader in supplying mushroom cultivation supplies and education; our main
goal is to support mushroom agriculture. This article will discuss a few of the most important
factors to consider before starting a mushroom farm.
The picture below is from the backyard of a condo complex in Alabama where 50 lbs can be
grown each week. This setup cost less than $1000
Educate yourself to become a successful mushroom grower!
Mushroom Farming is Still Young in North America
39
It's exciting that so many people are interested in growing mushrooms – they have been
cultivated for thousands of years and there is always more to learn! Mushroom farming has many
benefits over traditional agriculture; it's environmentally friendly, sustainable, efficient with
space usage, low labor costs (when done right), and can be profitable if well planned out for
small-scale operations.
Take it slow
It's too bad some people jump into mushroom farming without first learning about the industry.
One of the issues is that there isn't much good information available online for mushroom
growers; most mushroom farming literature comes from other countries which often use different
species and cultivation methods. Another issue is that not many people are growing mushrooms
in North America, so it's difficult to find mushroom growers who can offer advice on how to
start a mushroom farm. Take the time to learn as much as possible from industry leaders,
consultants, and other mushroom farmers; this will increase your chances of success when it
comes to starting a mushroom farm.
Mushroom farms do not look like traditional farms
The Basics
Don't get overwhelmed
It can be overwhelming at first, but starting a mushroom farm is fairly simple. There are two
options for starting your mushroom farm: indoor or outdoor. Indoor mushroom farming is the
best option for serious year-round production. Outdoor mushroom farming is much cheaper but
seasonal; not providing a year-round supply of mushrooms.
What is involved?
There are two main components to mushroom cultivation: spawn and substrate. The first
component, spawn, refers to any material with mycelium on it that will be used to transfer
mycelia into a substrate; this can be sawdust or grains that have been sterilized in a bag or jar.
The second component, substrate, is what the mycelium will grow on (as a food source) to
eventually produce mushrooms. Several different types of mushroom spawn can be used for
cultivation: plug spawn, sawdust spawn, and grain spawn. Ready to fruit blocks are another form
of spawn that comes pre-inoculated with the mycelium and is ready to fruit.
Varieties
It is important to note that there are different varieties of mushrooms, and each has its unique
growing requirements. For instance, shiitake mushrooms prefer to grow on supplemented
40
hardwood sawdust or logs as a substrate. Another example is oyster mushrooms which love
growing in just about anything; these two varieties are by far the easiest mushrooms to start with.
General tips
Here are some tips for growing mushrooms: mushrooms need water! Make sure you keep your
substrate moist at all times. The right temperature is also necessary; if the substrate gets too hot,
your mycelium could overheat. Make sure to have good airflow. If the mycelium gets no oxygen,
it will die. The post-harvest process is also very important. You must take care to store
mushrooms properly until they are ready for sale or consumption.
Mushroom Farming is Difficult. You will face big challenges
I know I just mentioned growing mushrooms is simple, but you would have to be a mushroom
farming expert to grow them all successfully. Despite how easy it is to start growing oyster
mushrooms or lion's mane from ready to fruit blocks, other mushrooms can be very difficult to
grow successfully. Mushroom farming can be very labor-intensive as well.
Make a plan
The type of mushrooms you want to cultivate make a big difference when deciding on your
business model. Many factors make some mushroom species easier to grow (and sell) than others
– like how quickly you will get a return on your investment or whether your end product is a
fresh or dried mushroom. There is no way around it, you should do your research, choose the
right species, and develop a plan before investing too much money into supplies or equipment.
Save money buying in bulk, but make sure you can move the material around!
Mushroom farming generates waste. Luckily, the waste is great compost!
Indoor mushroom farming
Overview
Growing mushrooms indoors requires less space than other types of agriculture but does have its
own set of challenges. Mushroom farming indoors requires fairly expensive equipment, but there
are several ways to save money when starting. For instance, by purchasing used equipment
instead of brand new; it may not be pretty but will still work just fine for growing mushrooms.
There are ways around spending too much on your initial setup; you just have to think outside
the box a little bit.
The basics of indoor mushroom farming
41
The most popular substrate for growing gourmet edible mushrooms indoors is sterilized sawdust,
either purchased as pre-inoculated blocks (ready-to-fruit) or prepared using spawn. Growing
indoors allows for year-round production, meaning higher yields and less time between harvests.
Many other substrates can be used to grow mushrooms indoors including straw, but they are not
recommended for commercial production by industry leaders. Environmental control is an
important aspect of indoor mushroom farming. The main parameters to consider are temperature,
humidity, and ventilation. Mushrooms need light to grow, but not very much. Temperatures must
be maintained between 55-65F for optimal results, conditions must be moist but not wet;
mushrooms also produce CO2, so they require lots of fresh air; make sure to install proper
ventilation. Garages, spare sheds, shipping containers, climate-controlled greenhouses,
warehouses; even old chicken houses are great options for indoor mushroom cultivation
structures provided the environment is properly controlled and maintained. When getting started,
a simple structure can be used for seasonal production in a semi-indoor environment
Final thoughts
Mushrooms are a tasty, healthy, and sustainable crop to grow. The number of available products
under the umbrella of "mushrooms" has increased exponentially in recent years. The demand for
gourmet and exotic food has continued to increase, and there is a growing interest in extremely
unique and high-quality food products. There is an increasing trend of consumers demanding
locally sourced food products as well, which puts small mushroom farms in a prime position to
take advantage of this growing market.
The future
As the trend of buying local food spreads throughout North America, more and more people are
making an effort to find products that they can feel good about buying. Consumers are becoming
more aware of the negative effects that large factory farming has on the environment, and they
are willing to pay top dollar for locally sourced food. If you're looking to start your own business
growing mushrooms, it's not too late. If you have the space and resources- growing them
yourself is highly rewarding!
Small Scale Mushroom Growing
42
Mushrooms are fungi that can be grown as a small-scale crop in your home. The fungi grow
from microscopic spawn that require moist, humid and dark conditions to turn into the fresh
mushrooms you find in grocery stores. Button mushrooms are an easy starter mushroom to learn
the growing and harvesting process. You can then branch out and try other varieties that are
appealing to you.
Preparation
Choose a location with an air temperature of 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity of 80 to
95 percent. Build wood plank mushroom beds about 50 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep.
Choose a length that fits best into the space. Leave 1-inch-gaps in the bottom of the planting
boxes to help with drainage and ventilation. Use a manure compost that consists of horse
manure, hay, poultry manure, gypsum and ammonium nitrate. Layer each ingredient into the
planting beds and moisten with water until it is the consistency of a damp sponge. Let the
mixture compost for 14 days, wetting it regularly and turning it every three days.
Planting
Plant mushroom spawn, or dust-like spores, on the compost once the growing medium stays at a
consistent temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature reduces the amount of
ammonia odor in the compost to prevent killing the spores. Broadcast spread the spawn evenly
over the compost and mix it thoroughly into the medium. Mushroom spawn is available through
seed companies and will have recommendations for the planting rate on the package based on the
type of mushroom. Keep the compost moist and cover the beds with damp newspapers while the
spores multiply. Apply a casing made from equal parts sphagnum peat miss and limestone over
the top of the sports after the white fungus has reached the top of the compost. Sprinkling warm
water over the compost keeps the growing medium moist and humidity high.
Harvest
Mushrooms are ready to harvest about four weeks after you add the casing layer on top of the
fungus growth. Small mushrooms called ―pins‖ are the first to appear. These mushrooms are
43
ready to pick once the cap reaches a diameter that is the same as the length of the stem. You
want to harvest the mushrooms before the veil ridges under the cap open and stretch out. Twist
the mushrooms at the base of the stem to remove them from the growing medium, instead of
pulling on them.
Problems
Small scale mushroom growing has the same requirements as large operations. This can become
difficult if the growing location is a basement where you cannot control temperature and
humidity levels. Overcome these problems by choosing an area that is well-ventilated, insulated
and completely dark where the mushrooms are growing. Choose horse manure that has been
composted for at least 10 days to reduce ammonia levels and is steam pasteurized to kill insects
and diseases.
How to start a small scale mushroom
growing business
A mushroom growing company could mean large earnings in a few weeks. Plus, beginning your
personal mushroom growing business is simple enough. Actually, here are steps to start a
mushroom growing company in only 6 easy steps:
Get your substrate and spawn
You will need mushroom spawn to begin the culture. Begin with oyster mushrooms,
because they are simple to grow and incredibly lucrative. You are able to create your own spawn
using a clean and sterile culture, or else you can purchase ready-to-inoculate spawn, which are
transported by providers.
Creating your own could be less expensive over time, however the start-up expenses could be
higher, therefore odds are buying the ready-to-inoculate spawn may be the approach to take for
you personally.
44
You will also have to purchase the substrate. Numerous farmers use hay or even wooden chips.
Hay is usually the most well-liked technique. You want hay that can be chopped up into small
pieces.
Put together the substrate
First, cut the hay into short pieces. Next, moisten the hay. Now you have to heat the hay in
boiling water. Carry on cooking for 30 minutes and then take away the hay and drain it. Next,
spread out the hay on the clean surface area and allow it to cool down.
Pack the plastic bags
Now you have to pack plastic bags with the hay and spawn. Load up 2 or 3 inches of hay into the
plastic bag after which gently spread the spawn on the top. Continue doing this till you have
nearly stuffed the tote, shut the top and poke openings in the bag.
Incubation
Now you have for incubation. Keep your growing region around 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Place
the bags on a shelving unit. Make sure to stop any kind of threats of sun light getting into the
area. Cover home windows and cracks.
Make use of a red ―darkroom‖ light if you want to check on your totes. When you begin to see
small pinhead weeds close to the air openings in your tote, you are ready to proceed to the next
phase.
Fruiting
For the fruiting space, you‘ll need a higher level of moisture. The heat will have to be 66
to 71 levels Fahrenheit. In contrast to the incubation room, you will absolutely need a lot of
organic light-at least twelve hours each day.
To shock your mycelium, that will pressure it into fruiting, transfer the baggage to some cool
spot for a day, like a basement or other cool location, after which transfer them back to the
fruiting space. As time goes on, cut away the bag, allowing mushrooms room to grow.
Harvest
Right before the mushroom caps are totally uncurled, then you‘re ready to harvest. To do this,
twist the stem away as close to the base when you are able to. You have now harvested your own
mushrooms.
45
Low Tech, Small-Scale Mushroom Farming: A Great Source of
Food, Fun, and Profit!
When people think of farming, they usually think of large-scale agriculture—or maybe a nice
garden in their back yard. Few people consider mushroom farming… but let us tell you, that‘s a
mistake!
How to start growing mushrooms at home
Mushrooms are a fantastic crop to grow, either as a hobby, a ―side gig‖, or a full-time business.
You can easily start your very own small-scale mushroom farm within a few weeks (or even a
single afternoon with one or two of our bestselling All-in-One Grow Kits).
The other nice thing about small-scale mushroom farming is that it doesn‘t require much in the
way of electricity or expensive equipment. In fact, ―low-tech‖ mushroom cultivation is very
desirable thanks to its ease and affordability. With a little dedication, you could even turn a
significant profit on each of your harvests, as many different types of culinary mushrooms are
always in high demand.
In this post on the Monster Mushroom Company‘s Magic Mushroom Growing Supplies blog,
we‘re going to discuss some of the following:




Why you should cultivate mushrooms in the first place, either as a hobby or a small-scale
―farming‖ operation!
How to get started, what kind of equipment you need, and how much it costs to start a
mushroom farm.
How to avoid the #1 mistake new mushroom cultivators tend to make (you‘re going to
want to see this!)
A few additional tips and links to resources that will help you grow mushrooms like a
pro.
In addition to the above, the FIRST thing you should do—even if you‘re just a tiny bit curious
about mushroom farming or setting up a cultivation system at home—is to download a 100%
free copy of our eBook:
Now, having said that, let‘s get started. Why grow mushrooms at home in the first place?
Small-Scale, Home Mushroom Growing Operations Have Become Really, Really Popular –
Here‘s Why
In the past couple of years, and during 2020 especially, growing mushrooms at home became the
hobby du jour, with more people than ever taking up an interest in mycology. Stories like the
46
―mushroom cowboy‖, a young man who dropped out of school to work full time on his
successful fungi farm, have become more and more commonplace.
So why the sudden fungi fanaticism?
We think it boils down to the fact that growing mushrooms is a hobby that‘s very easy to get
started in but also offers a ton of headroom for developing your expertise. What‘s the saying?
Easy to learn, tough to master. That describes fungi cultivation very well.
Once you grow your first batch of mushrooms—many of you reading this probably already know
this feeling—the sense of pride and accomplishment you earn is second to none. It‘s a bit
addicting, and as soon as you‘re done with the first, you‘ll be on to the next. And the next, and
the next… and sometimes that may lead you to want to do more, like expanding your operation
into a small-scale mushroom farm.
If you think that might be you, here‘s how to get started:
How to Start a Mushroom Farm: Equipment, Space Requirements, and Mushroom Grow Kit
Cost:
The cost of mushroom growing is minimal, at least compared to other types of cultivation: a few
hundred bucks and you‘re more or less going to be off to the races.
Included in our mushroom grow kit is everything you need for at least 4-6 crops. You get a 54
quart professionally customized monotub, which is one of the best growing chambers for smallscale mushroom cultivation, and everything else you need—from an air filtration system to a
drying, curing, and storage system.
In terms of space required, it‘s not much—how much room do you have to house your
monotubs? We‘ve seen setups using our equipment with up to eight tubs in a spare bedroom,
which was not only flattering but really cool to see!
How to Avoid the #1 Mistake New Mushroom Growers Always Seem to Make
One of the biggest mistakes someone new to the ―myco‖ scene can make is to bite off more than
they can chew before they know the basics. Start small! Get a mushroom grow kit, learn the
ropes by growing a few crops, and then expand. Odds are you‘ll know if the hobby is for you by
that time. If you can‘t stop thinking about mushrooms, then it‘s probably a new lifelong passion!
The other thing to avoid is to not use the informational resources available to you.
So make sure that you check out our…Additional Resources to Help You Grow Mushrooms at Home:
Top 10 tips for mushroom growing,
47
Major problems and challenges faced by the farmers are normally lack of knowledge in
mushroom cultivation and disease management, lack of financial assistance, difficulties in
finding proper local market and producing value added mushroom products.
8 Reasons your mushrooms are not growing
Learning how to grow mushrooms is like any skill. Sometimes you succeed. Sometimes you
fail. The important thing is to keep trying and learn from your mistakes. Yet it can be really
frustrating to start out with what you believe is a successful mushroom project, only to have it
produce nothing. Trust me, I know. It‘s happened to me many times!
Although many factors may influence your success, there are some common mistakes that can be
easily avoided. I‘ve listed eight big ones below, along with practical solutions. If you‘re just
learning to grow mushrooms, review this list to save yourself both time and heartache. Even if
you‘re a veteran, it never hurts to come back to the basics.
Reasons your mushrooms are not growing
1. Not Enough Moisture
Mycelium, the underground vegetative growth of a fungus, needs a moist environment to thrive
and produce mushrooms. Mushrooms themselves are mainly water, so if you let the mycelium
dry out or the humidity level get too low then nothing will happen.
Solution:
Pay attention to moisture and humidity levels! If you grow mushrooms outside,
make sure that you keep your bags or bed slightly damp. Make sure to mist or water when you
see and feel things drying out.
If you cultivate inside under sterile conditions, you‘ll need to monitor moisture and humidity
levels more carefully. A cheap hygrometer will help you do this.
2. Too Much Moisture
The opposite of the above problem, and it does happen. Too much moisture can lead to a soggy
substrate, mold, and standing water. Standing water encourages bacterial growth and mold, two
things that compete with your mycelium. Although we want to keep our growing media moist,
and may even soak it for a day at first, leaving it in standing water is just asking for trouble.
Solution: It‘s all about drainage. If you‘re using a mushroom growing kit, don‘t let it sit in
water after you‘ve misted it. If you‘re using bags or bins or some other indoor method, don‘t
over-water and make holes in the bottom for water to run out. Keep this in mind if you‘re trying
48
to grow your own mushrooms outside as well. A bed should have adequate drainage, and not be
in an area where it will sit in water and encourage mold.
3. Not Sterile Enough
The microbial world is a constant battle of good versus evil. Your mycelium needs to take over
and remain in control of your substrate, or it will lose out to mold and other micro-competitors.
Failing to take this into account will lead to bugs, mold spores, and other unhealthy things taking
over your project. Even if it does produce mushrooms, you probably won‘t want to eat them.
Solution:
This is often easier to do when trying to grow
mushrooms in outdoor beds. Keep cleanliness in mind by
maintaining a good working environment. Follow obvious rules like
washing your hands and not working next to the litter box.
Depending on the type of project, you may want to prepare your
substrate first to discourage micro-competitors. Pasteurization of
straw is one of these methods.
For some indoor projects like growing from spores, you‘ll want to
maintain strict sterility in order to avoid contamination.
Getting equipment such as a flow hood, autoclave, or pressure
cooker (right) is often necessary. Do a lot of reading before you do something like this. It‘s not
for beginners!
4. Not Enough Air Exchange
Mushrooms don‘t need as much fresh air as we do, but they still need it. Without any air
exchange carbon dioxide levels build up and your mushrooms will emerge as stunted, spindly
things that are all stalks and no caps. Very disappointing.
Solution: Make sure your project has a flow of fresh air. Don‘t place things in areas with no air
exchange. If you‘re growing in a sealed environment, you may want to open it a few times a day
for fresh air. Just be aware that when you introduce fresh air you also introduce the possibility of
contaminants and lower humidity levels. It‘s a delicate dance!
5. The Wrong Environment:
The key to learning how to grow mushrooms is to create an environment that‘s conducive to the
species that you‘re cultivating. Make them feel at home! That means don‘t try to grow a warmtemperature mushroom in cold weather. Don‘t try to cultivate a wood-loving species on straw.
Make sure your mushroom substrate is nutrient-rich. Basically, give the mycelia what it needs to
thrive.
49
Solution:
Research. Know what kind of mushroom you‘re trying to grow and what they
need before you begin. You don‘t have to read someone‘s PhD thesis, but a little knowledge goes
a long way.
6. Bad Spawn
Mushroom spawn that‘s old or has traveled a great distance may not be as vigorous and may fail
to thrive and produce. It‘s no great secret that you should have the healthiest spawn possible to
increase your chances of successfully growing mushrooms.
Solution: First off, only buy spawn from a reputable company. If you purchase from someplace
sketchy with bad business practices you‘ll get an inferior product. Ideally buy from somewhere
close to you, so your spawn doesn‘t have to go very far.
After that, the best advice is to use it or lose it! Don‘t let spawn sit around forever, as it will
weaken, create wastes, and possibly contaminate. Keeping it in the refrigerator will extend its
life, but it becomes less viable with every passing week.
7. Lack of Research/Understanding of the Mushroom
Life Cycle
You don‘t have to be a professional mycologist to understand
some basic principles of the mushroom life cycle. Knowing how
this organism works greatly decreases the chances of your
mushrooms not growing. You‘ll be better equipped if you
understand what mycelium is, how it feeds itself, and what it
needs to survive.
Again, research. You don‘t have to know
everything, but some research, in the beginning, is important.
Solution:
Don‘t stress yourself and make things overly complicated.
Learning to grow mushrooms is fun! Think of it as a fun
educational experience, one that‘s not restricted by the oftenboring boundaries of a classroom.
8. Lack of Patience
Mycelium takes time to grow into a substrate and grow mushrooms. In the case of some
mushrooms, like morels, it may even take years! This is not an activity for the impatient,
something I struggle with as a fairly impatient person myself. Yet fear not, careful watching and
waiting is greatly rewarded in this hobby.
50
Ummm…be patient? Easier said than done, I know! Enjoy watching things grow
and getting into the rhythm of the mushroom life cycle. If it looks like nothing is happening,
don‘t give up too soon. Wait a little longer and don‘t just write the whole thing off.
Solution:
Often at this stage, I‘ve found that all a mushroom project needs are more water and a little more
TLC. I sincerely hope this list hasn‘t intimidated you. Rather, it‘s just meant to outline some
things to keep in mind to increase your chances of success.
Learning how to grow mushrooms needn‘t be a complicated or confusing process. Through
reading and simple trial and error, I guarantee you‘ll eventually succeed. Every failure is a
learning experience. Besides, if you‘re learning and having fun, then it‘s not really a failure, is it?
The most common mushroom growing problems and
how to solve them
Whether you are new to cultivating mushrooms or an experienced grower, there is always a
chance you could run into problems.
While growing gourmet or medicinal mushrooms can be straightforward, numerous things can
go wrong. Many factors can negatively impact your project, from contamination to inappropriate
growing conditions.
Knowing the typical reasons why mushroom cultivation fails will allow you to avoid these
potential pitfalls. And in the worst-case scenario, you will know how to troubleshoot and
hopefully prevent your hard work from going to waste.
This informative guide discusses some of the most common mushroom growing problems you
might encounter. We will also explain some of the biggest challenges associated with each stage
of the process and how to solve them.
Common Mushroom Growing Problems
The process of growing mushrooms varies significantly depending on the species, method, and
whether you are growing indoors or outdoors. However, all grows have a few basic
requirements, particularly:
Moisture, Fresh air and Light:
Failure to provide enough moisture, air, or light will impair the mushrooms‘ growth.
However, there are numerous other factors to consider.
51
This article will focus on what can go wrong when growing mushrooms. For a general overview
of the process, check out our beginner‘s guide to growing mushrooms. Otherwise, read on to
learn about the most common mushroom growing problems and how to solve them.
1. Contamination
Fungi thrive in warm and moist environments. Unfortunately, these conditions are also ideal for
contaminants like bacteria and mold. These unwanted microorganisms compete with the fungus
for nutrients and inhibit its growth. They also make any mushrooms that do manage to form
unusable.
Contamination is a significant threat, especially in the early stages of mycelium growth before
the fungus has developed an immune system. However, it is essential to be vigilant at all stages
of growth and immediately deal with any contaminants.
Solution:
It is essential to have a clean workspace and good personal hygiene. Sterilize all equipment with
70% isopropyl alcohol, wash your hands, and wear gloves and a face mask where
possible. Grains should also be sterilized and substrates pasteurized before use.
Serious mycologists should consider investing in specialist equipment, such as a laminar flow
hood and pressure cooker. The former acts as an effective air filter, while the latter is necessary
for sterilizing grains. Serious mycologists should consider investing in specialist equipment, such
as a laminar flow hood and pressure cooker.
At a bare minimum, work should be carried out inside a still air box to minimize the risk of
contamination. Moreover, your mushroom project should be kept away from pets and disturbed
as little as possible.
You should also familiarize yourself with the appearance of different contaminants that could
affect your grow. Healthy mycelium is white. Any brown, black, green, orange, or pink patches
could be a sign of contamination. Remove affected bags or jars from the grow space immediately
and dispose of them safely.
2. Not Enough Moisture
As we have mentioned, moisture is one of the most critical environmental considerations when
growing mushrooms. Without enough humidity, the mycelium will dry out and die. Furthermore,
mushrooms have a high water content. If they do not have enough moisture as they grow, they
can become dry and brittle with cracked caps.
Solution:
52
Give your substrate a good soaking and squeeze out the excess water before inoculating it with
your spawn. If you grow mushrooms in an enclosed environment such as a unicorn bag or
monotub, the substrate should retain enough moisture until you initiate fruiting. Then, mist your
container several times daily during the fruiting stage, or invest in a humidifier.
If you are growing mushrooms outdoors, you may need to provide additional water during dry
weather. Choosing a naturally shady spot for your project or using shade netting can help to
minimize water loss.
3. Too Much Moisture
Too much moisture can be as harmful to your mushrooms as too little. Puddles of standing water
quickly become stagnant and encourage the growth of contaminants like mold.
Solution:
Provide ample drainage and do not overwater your project. Little and often is better than
drenching your substrate in more water than it can absorb.
4. Not Enough Fresh Air
Fresh air exchange is essential for healthy mushroom formation. If there is too much carbon
dioxide and not enough oxygen, your mushrooms may be stunted with small or deformed caps.
Lack of fresh air can also cause ―fuzzy feet,‖ whereby mushrooms develop additional mycelium
at the base of their stems. While this is not necessarily harmful, it means the fungus is wasting
energy that could be put into producing more mushrooms.
Solution:
During the fruiting stage, open your containers for a few minutes once or twice daily to allow
fresh air exchange. Some growers recommend investing in a fan, although you can also fan your
containers manually.
5. Not Enough Light
Mushrooms do not require light to produce energy in the same way as plants do. However, they
do need some ambient light to develop properly. Mushrooms grown in poorly lit areas tend to
have long, spindly stems. They may also lean in one direction as they search for light.
Solution:
If growing indoors, choose a room that receives enough natural daylight, or invest
in a grow lamp. Outdoor growers usually needn‘t worry too much but should avoid growing
mushrooms in heavily shaded areas.
53
6. Wrong Climate
Different mushroom species naturally grow in different regions and, therefore, prefer different
temperatures. This is a crucial consideration for outdoor growers. Trying to grow a tropical
species in a cold climate will likely be unsuccessful and vice versa.
Solution:
Outdoor growers should research which mushrooms will grow well in their region and opt for
those. Indoor growers have greater control over their environment. Therefore, they can grow a
greater variety by using equipment such as a seedling heat mat to provide additional warmth if
necessary.
7. Wrong Substrate
It is possible to grow mushrooms on various substrates, including wood, straw, coco coir, and
compost. However, choosing a suitable substrate for your mushrooms is just as important as
choosing the right climate. Some species are fussier than others and will not grow unless you
provide the optimal medium. For example, wood-lovers like reishi and lion‘s mane are unlikely
to grow well on soil.
Solution:
Research the variety you intend to grow and make sure you provide its preferred substrate. You
could also consider supplementing with additional nutrients to maximize your yield.
8. Faulty Spawn
Sometimes a grow can fail simply because of faulty spawn. Possible issues include spawn that is
already contaminated or takes too long to arrive and dies. Spawn can also go bad if you don‘t use
it quickly enough. Either way, faulty spawn means your project is doomed from the outset.
Solution:
Only buy spawn from reputable suppliers that have a fast shipping time. Check your spawn over
when it arrives and use it as soon as possible. You can store it in a refrigerator for a few days if
necessary. However, in general, the longer you wait, the more chance there is for something to
go wrong.
9. Too Much or Too Little Spawn:
Using the right amount of spawn can be a delicate balancing act. Too little will leave
your substrate vulnerable to contamination, and colonization will be slow. Meanwhile, too much
could create excessive thermogenesis. Thermogenesis means that as mycelium consumes
54
nutrients from its substrate, it produces heat. Too much spawn means too much thermogenesis,
resulting in overheating and mycelium death.
Solution:
Do some research and use the appropriate amount of spawn for the volume of the substrate.
Many growers recommend using around 20% spawn to 80% substrate. However, this can vary
markedly depending on the species and substrate type.
10. Lack of Knowledge
You don‘t need to be a professional mycologist to grow mushrooms. In fact, it is a wonderful
way to learn about them. However, a complete lack of understanding could lead to errors and the
failure of your crop.
Solution:
Before even starting on your first grow, do some research. Learn the basics of the mushroom life
cycle and what to expect. Find out which species are suitable for your climate, and decide
whether you want to grow indoors or outdoors. There are countless resources available online, so
take advantage of them to avoid silly mistakes.
11. Lack of Patience
Growing mushrooms takes time, and being impatient is potentially one of the biggest problems.
Mushroom farming can be labor-intensive, and some people may become overwhelmed, leading
to problems.
For example, overenthusiasm could cause you to initiate fruiting before your substrate is fully
colonized. This could result in low yields or, worse still, contamination. Another common
mistake is not letting pasteurized substrate cool sufficiently before adding the spawn and killing
it. Trying to do too much at once is also the downfall of many new growers. Mushroom farming
can be labor-intensive, and some people may become overwhelmed, leading to problems.
Solution:
Go slow and steady. Take your time to research each step thoroughly and resist the temptation to
rush.
If you are brand new to growing mushrooms, consider starting with a commercial mushroom
grow kit. These are pre-colonized blocks of substrate that are ready to fruit. You just need to add
water. Once you have completed your first grow successfully, you can move on to using
pre-made grain spawn and, eventually, create your own.
55
Finally, don‘t give up hope if nothing seems to be happening. Some mushrooms can take months
to begin fruiting so wait a little longer, check the conditions are right, and hopefully, your
patience will be rewarded.
12. Improper Harvesting
Even once you have successfully produced a flush of mushrooms, there are still things that can
go wrong. For instance, harvesting too early can mean the mushrooms have not developed fully
and will be small and light. Meanwhile, harvesting too late can cause the mushrooms to go bad,
ruining all your hard work.
It is also essential to consider how you harvest the mushrooms to avoid damaging the mycelium.
Keeping the mycelium intact is the best way to ensure you get further flushes of mushrooms and
boost your yield.
Solution:
Most mushrooms should be picked when the cap is just starting to open out but before the gills
are fully exposed. For oyster mushrooms, wait until the caps open out and start to curl up at the
edges.
Harvest your mushrooms gently by holding the base of the stem and twisting them away from
the mycelium. You can also use clean scissors or a sharp knife.
Mushroom Growing Problems: Summary
Mushroom cultivation is a fun and rewarding hobby. You get to learn about the fungal life cycle
and have the satisfaction of watching your own delicious or medicinal mushrooms developing.
Although there are some potential pitfalls, most of them are easily avoidable. Do your research
and watch out for the most common mushroom growing mistakes listed above.
One final tip is to label everything and carefully log every stage of your project. That way, if
something does go wrong, you should be able to pinpoint your mistake and avoid making it
again in the future.
Common problems faced by Oyster mushroom growers
Pests and Bacteria
Bacteria: The most common bacterial problem encountered by growers is Pseudomonas tolaasii.
This is the same bacterium that causes bacterial blotch of A. bisporus. Symptoms of the disease
include reduced yield and orange discoloration and brittleness of the basidiocarps (Figure 9).
Infected mushrooms have a reduced shelf life. Constant and high RH, insufficient air movement,
56
overheating of the substrate (above 35°C), excessive moisture content, and especially a wet
mushroom surface may exacerbate P. tolaasii infection. Lowering RH to 80 to 85 percent, and
sprinkling the surface of the bags between flushes with 0.2 percent bleach solution may help
maintain control.
Figure 9. Mushrooms emerging from pasteurized substrate contained in black plastic bags
showing symptoms of bacterial blotch caused by Pseudomonas tolaasii.
Symptoms of mushrooms produced on substrate infested with P. tolaasii
include orange discoloration, brittleness, reduced shelf life, and reduced yield.
Fungi. Most fungi encountered in oyster mushroom production grow and develop on the
substrate and are very rarely parasitic. The most frequently encountered genera include
Aspergillus, Botrytis, Coprinus, Fusarium, Monilia, Mucor, Penicillium, Trichoderma, and
Trichothecium. Substrates that have only been pasteurized are more susceptible to infestation
than substrates that have been pasteurized and conditioned. Fungal infestation may be more of a
problem when substrates are supplemented with nitrogen-rich nutrients — especially if the
supplements are not commercial delayed-release nutrients. Infesting fungi may also be more of a
problem when substrate temperatures rise above 35°C. Higher substrate temperatures may injure
mushroom spawn, reduce mycelial growth rates, and leave the substrate vulnerable to
competitors such as Coprinus spp. (ink caps) and Trichoderma spp. (green mold).
Fungi of the genera Cladobotryum and Verticillium, known to cause disease of A. bisporus, are
rarely encountered in Pleurotus spp. cultivation. These fungi, when they are encountered in
oyster mushroom production, may be found mainly on aged basidiocarp and stipe residues.
Insects. Insects infesting mushroom tissues cause the greatest losses for growers, particularly
during summer months. The most important insect pests associated with oyster mushroom tissue
include Cecidomyiidae (Mycophila speyeri), Scatopsidae, Sciaridae (Lycoriella solani), and
Phoridae (Megaselia halterata, M. nigra). Oyster mushroom primordia are very sensitive to
chemical vapors, so using pesticide to control insects is difficult. Large clusters of deformed
oyster mushroom tissue resembling «cauliflower» have been observed after insecticides were
applied during primordial formation. Use of various flytraps and adherence to strict hygiene
practices, particularly during spawning and spawn run, help keep fly populations below
economic threshold levels. In the United States, Bacillus thuringiensis var. israeliensis (Bti),
57
when incorporated into the substrate at spawning, has shown excellent effectiveness against
sciarid flies.
Deformed Fruit Bodies
Deformed mushrooms may result from several causes, many of them still unknown. However, most
deformed mushrooms may be traced to insufficient ventilation, smoke, chemical vapors, overheated
substrate during spawn run, extreme low fruiting temperature (below 10°C), and insufficient light.
Airborne Spores
Spore production. A single mushroom may produce up to 4 million spores per hour. Worker
exposure to airborne spores is a concern on most farms. Inhaled spores can cause an allergic
reaction in some workers. In the United States, masks are worn to filter out spores released from
the maturing mushrooms (Figure 10). Exposure can be minimized by introducing higher volumes
of fresh air 1 to 2 hours before harvesting and by wearing a proper mask.
Figure 10. Pickers should wear masks to reduce exposure to airborne mushroom spores.
Inhalation of spores may cause flu-like symptoms among sensitized workers.
MUSHROOM SUBSTRATES
GROWING
B L O G MMMUNDERSTUBSTRATES
Finding the perfect mushroom substrate for your grow- and getting the right substrate recipe– is
one of the most important aspects of mushroom cultivation.
58
New growers will quickly realize that growing mushrooms is significantly different than growing
plants.
Although the concept of a mushroom substrate can be thought of as somewhat analogous to the
soil for a plant, the way that mushrooms actually use a substrate is different, and needs to be
fully understood by the cultivator in order to achieve the best results.
COMMON MUSHROOM SUBSTRATES
STRAW
Pasteurized Straw is commonly used to grow oyster mushrooms. It is cheap and effective, albeit
a little messy.
HARDWOOD SAWDUST
Hardwoods such as oak, beech and maple make for a great substrate for many types of
mushrooms, especially when combined with a bran supplement.
SOY HULLS
Soy hulls can be mixed with hardwood sawdust at different ratios to produce extremely effective
and high yielding substrates, particularly for growing oysters.
MANURE
Common button mushrooms are grown on composted manure, specially prepared using a two
phase composting and sterilization process.
COCO COIR AND VERMICULITE
Coir is a commercially available mix of ground up coconut husk and shells which can be mixed
with vermiculite to create an effective substrate.
COFFEE GROUNDS AND MORE
Mushrooms will grow on a number of urban and agricultural waste products, from spent coffee
grounds to banana leaves.
WHAT IS A MUSHROOM SUBSTRATE?
To put it simply, a substrate is a bulk material that the mushroom mycelium can use for energy
and nutrition. A good substrate is required in order for the mushroom to grow and to fruit.
59
Common substrate recipes for growing mushrooms usually involve straw or hardwood sawdust,
although there are many other good options to be considered.
The mushroom substrate needs to be properly prepared by adding water, potentially adding
additional nutrition, and further processed by sterilization or pasteurization. When ready, it can
be ―Innoculated‖, wherein broken up pieces of mycelium-covered grain, also known as grain
spawn, are evenly mixed into the substrate.
Under the right conditions, the mycelium will start to grow, rapidly devouring and decomposing
the organic material in a process known as ―colonization.‖
The mushrooms are ready to fruit once the substrate is fully colonized- meaning it has been
completely consolidated and encompassed by the mycelium.
Pink Oysters Pinning on a Fully Colonized Straw Based Substrate.
PASTEURIZING OR STERILIZING THE SUBSTRATE
Ideal mushroom substrates are moist and full of nutrition. Unfortunately, there are many other
things that also thrive in these conditions, such as molds and bacteria. These contaminants can
grow much faster than the mushroom mycelium, so something needs to be done in order to give
the mushroom an advantage in the race to colonize the substrate.
This can be accomplished by the process of sterilization or pasteurization.
Pasteurization is the process of heating up a substrate between 150-180 deg F for a period of 1.52 hours. It doesn‘t remove all the contaminants, but it will reduce the overall population of other
microbes to a level that gives the mushroom species a head start.
Some microorganisms will survive pasteurization and remain in the substrate in some capacity,
but can actually helpful for the growth of the mushroom in the long run.
PASTEURIZATION:
The process of heating a bulk substrate between 150 – 185 deg F with steam or in a hot water
bath in order to reduce the overall level of contaminates and give the mushroom culture a head
start.
60
STERILIZATION;
The process of heating the substrate to extreme temperatures exceeding 250 deg F, under
pressure, in an attempt to completely eliminate any living or dormant contaminants within the
substrate.
So what kind of substrates are pasteurized?
One perfect examples is non-supplemented straw, a mushroom substrate which is nutritious
enough for the mushrooms to grow, but not so rich in nutrients that it needs to be fully sterilized.
Pasteurization can be achieved either by subjecting the straw to steam injection or by soaking the
straw in a hot water bath. Both methods serve to pasteurize and moisten the straw. After it is
cooled, the straw can be inoculated with the mushroom culture.
A burner set up for pasteurizing straw.
61
Straw cooling after being pasteurized.
Substrates which are more nutritious, such as supplemented hardwood sawdust, need to be
sterilized rather than pasteurized. If not sterilized, the substrate will almost always contaminate
with molds, long before the mushrooms have a chance to fully colonize.
This is usually due to the addition of overly nutritious bran, or other form of supplementation,
which allows the molds to quickly claim victory over the substrate.
Sterilization is the attempt to completely eliminate all forms of contamination. This is done by
heating the substrate under pressure for an extended period of time. For supplemented sawdust
fruiting blocks, typical sterilization protocol is to pressure sterilize at 15 PSI for 2.5 hours.
This brings the temperature of the substrate up to 250 deg F, effectively killing off any potential
contaminants.
The substrate then needs to be inoculated under completely sterile conditions, and remain sterile
until the mushroom is able fully take hold.
62
Supplemented hardwood sawdust fruiting block after sterilization and before innoculation.
WATER IN THE SUBSTRATE
Mushroom fruiting bodies are 70-90% water, and all of that water is drawn up from the substrate.
Unlike plants, mushrooms are not ―watered‖ during the growing cycle.
Of course, humidity needs to be added to the air so that the substrate doesn‘t dry out, but all of
the water that mushrooms require to grow is added to the substrate before inoculation.
For this reason, the substrate needs to be properly hydrated during preparation. For straw, this
typically occurs during the pasteurization process, when the straw is soaked in hot water. For
supplemented sawdust fruiting blocks, an appropriate amount of water should be mixed into the
sawdust before the sterilization process.
If your substrate is too dry, growth will be slow, and the mushrooms may fail to overtake the
substrate at all. On the other hand, if the substrate is too wet, it may encourage bacterial growth
and inhibit full colonization. Getting just the right amount of water in your substrates definitely
takes some practice.
DIFFERENT SUBSTRATES FOR DIFFERENT
MUSHROOMS
Different species of mushrooms have different preferences of substrates, although there is
definitely some flexibility in what you can use successfully.
63
Most varieties of oyster mushrooms grow well on straw. This includes Blue Oysters, Pearl
Oysters, Yellow Oysters and Pink Oysters. Even King Oysters will grow well on straw,
although you can expect a higher yield, and better looking mushrooms if you grow Kings on
sawdust instead.
Most other gourmet and medicinal mushrooms grow best on supplemented hardwood sawdust.
This includes Reishi, Lions Mane, Maitake and Shiitake.
Oysters will also grow well on hardwood sawdust. A standardized fruiting block recipe will
work well for all the species listed here, but it is definitely worth playing around with moisture
content and supplementation level to see if slight variations make a difference.
GROW ON STRAW:




Blue Oysters
Yellow Oysters
Pink Oysters
Pearl Oysters
GROW ON SAWDUST:




Reishi
Lions Mane
Shiitake
King Oysters
USING STRAW AS A SUBSTRATE
Straw is a cheap and extremely effective substrate that works well for many types of mushroom
species. Straw is the stem portion of grains such as wheat, barley or oats – it‘s basically what is
left over after the grain itself has been removed.
In many ways, straw is an agricultural waste product.
If you live near a farming community, you should have no problem finding straw. A 40lb (dry
weight) square bail should cost no more than $2-4. Keep in mind that straw is messy to work
with – it needs to be chopped, cleaned and pasteurized before being used as a substrate. It
works best for medium to large grow operations which have a separate prep area and a large
drum for pasteurization.
64
A 40lb square bail of straw, compressed.
That being said, you can still use straw for hobby scale indoor grows. A smaller amount of straw
can be chopped with garden shears and pasteurized by pouring hot water into a tote- instead of
using a large drum and a gas burner.
If you are planning to do small scale grows using straw, you might want to consider using EZ
Straw. This is especially convenient if you don‘t live anywhere near a farming community. They
sell coarsely cut straw in a convenient bag, already pre-cut and cleaned. Using something like EZ
Straw will prevent a lot of the mess and hassle of dealing with large bales of straw.
USING HARDWOOD SAWDUST AND CHIPS
Hardwood sawdust makes for an excellent mushroom substrate, and is commonly used in
industry. It is a waste product of the lumber industry, and might be cheap and easy to find,
depending on your location.
The fine sawdust is typically mixed with wood chips, which seems to allow for faster
colonization of the substrate and provide a better structure for the mycelium to take hold.
65
Commonly used hardwoods are oak, maple, beech, and hickory- or a mix of multiple species.
Softwoods such as spruce, pine and fir are not suitable for mushroom cultivation.
If you are in an area where you don‘t have easy access to hardwood sawdust, you can always use
hardwood pellets. These are typically used for wood stoves- but will also work well for growing
mushrooms! The pellets need to be soaked in water before being broken up into fine sawdust\.
Soaking in water will also serve to hydrate the substrate.
You can usually find the pellets inexpensively, although they may only available seasonally in
most retail stores. There is a large selection of them available here.
They usually come in large 40lb bags, which should be enough sawdust for most small scale
hobby grows. Again, make sure the pellets are hardwood and not softwood. You also want to
make sure that the pellets don‘t contain a lot of glues, paints or other additives.
If you are growing mushrooms using sawdust pellets, the following substrate recipe works well
for many types of gourmet mushrooms:
For every 5 lb fruiting block:



5 cups of hardwood pellets
1.4 liters water
1-1/4 cups wheat bran
Check out our article on growing mushrooms on supplemented sawdust fruiting blocks for
more information.
66
SUPPLEMENTATION
Mushroom substrates can supercharged by adding an easily consumed and highly nutritious
supplement that the mushroom mycelium can use to grow faster and stronger.
Supplementation will also produce larger yields! Be careful though, as too much
supplementation can cause higher rates of contamination.
Typically, supplementation is achieved by adding bran (oat bran or wheat bran) at a ratio of 510% dry weight. Substrates that are supplemented absolutely need to be fully sterilized or else
contaminants will quickly take over.
Even after full sterilization, the chance of contamination goes up linearly with the amount of
supplementation- and eventually you reach a point of diminishing returns.
Interestingly, Shiitake mushrooms require lower levels of supplementation in order to produce
the best results. Over-supplemented shiitake mushrooms can produce strange and unsellable
mutated looking fruiting bodies.
Shiitake Naturally Growing on Hardwood Logs.
THE MASTERS MIX
If you‘re looking for an extremely effective substrate for growing oysters, you might want to try
what‘s know as the Master’s Mix – a 50/50 mix of sawdust and soyhulls, sterilized at 15 PSI for
2.5 hours.
The original ―master‖ behind this mix is T.R. Davis from Earth Angel Mushrooms. You will not
likely find any another substrate that will yield as much on the first flush as this mix.
67
There are two downsides to using soy hulls as far as I can tell. Firstly, the second flush will not
be anywhere nearly as strong as the first flush, even though the huge first flush definitely makes
up for it.
Secondly, the mix doesn‘t seem to colonize as fast as the more traditional supplemented sawdust
formula. It‘s possible that this is only in my experience, so your miles may vary.
GROWING MUSHROOMS ON MANURE
Most people think that mushrooms grow on manure- which is indeed true. Although most
gourmet species prefer hardwood sawdust or straw, there are many common species that grow
best on manure.
Agaricus species, such as the common button mushroom and the portobella mushroom, as well
as many Psilocybin species, are good examples.
In commercial Agaricus bisporus cultivation, the manure substrate first goes through a multiday
composting phase, where large piles of compost (manure and straw) naturally heat up to 160 deg
F, and beneficial organisms proliferate.
Once this process is complete, the compost is properly pasteurized to remove all unwanted
contaminants. This secondary pasteurization process also removes ammonia that naturally builds
up during the first phase compost. Check out this neat video below that sums up the process of
preparing compost for button mushroom cultivation:
Growing mushrooms on compost in this manner is usually not pursued by the home grower,
though it is certainly possible.
GROWING MUSHROOMS ON COCO-COIR
68
Another common material used to grow mushrooms at home is coco-coir. Coco-coir is a natural
material made from the husk and the shell of coconuts.
It is commonly used for quasi-hydroponic plant growing systems. It does a good job of retaining
water, and although it doesn‘t provide many nutrients for plants, it is reasonably nutritious
enough for growing mushrooms, although not so much so that contaminates easily proliferate.
Coco coir is often mixed in a 1:1 ratio with vermiculite to form a suitable mushroom substrate.
Vermiculite is an expanded mineral that provides structure to the substrate and retains water,
though it is nutritionally inert. The coco-coir vermiculite mix still needs to be properly
pasteurized before being inoculated with mushroom grain spawn.
You can buy compressed blocks of coco-coir on Amazon, and can also usually find it at your
local garden center. The coco-coir will expand many times it‘s size once it is broken apart and
soaked with water.
GROWING MUSHROOMS ON COFFEE
Although it is possible to use nothing but spent coffee grounds as a mushroom growing substrate,
it is usually not the best choice. Coffee grounds are high in nitrogen, which provides plenty of
energy for the mycelium and helps produce higher yields. This richness of the straight coffee
substrates however, make for higher chances of contamination.
Coffee grounds are better used as a supplement added to other substrate materials, such as
hardwood sawdust or coco-coir. Coffee grounds should be fully sterilized before being added to
the substrate, but you can often get away with just pasteurization.
USES FOR SPENT MUSHROOM SUBSTRATE
If you start to grow a lot of mushrooms, you might soon end up with large piles of spent
substrate that you don‘t know what to do with. The shear volume of substrate can add up really
quick- so it‘s good to have some idea of what to do with it all.
The most obvious choice, if you have a reasonably small amount of spent substrate, is to
compost it. Just leave your substrate in a pile outside and let the natural process of
69
decomposition take hold. Chances are good that you might even get an extra flush or two of
mushrooms in your compost pile! It doesn‘t take long before your spent substrate will
decompose into a rich loamy compost that can be added to your vegetable garden.
It is also possible that substrate can be reused to grow more mushrooms. For example, if you
have a bunch of spent shiitake blocks, you might be able to break them up, re-sterilize them and
reuse the organic material to grow more shiitake! Keep in mind though, you will likely need to
add supplementation, and you are likely to have yields with diminishing returns.
If you have more spent substrate then you know what to do with, see if your city has a free
composting program, or if a nearby farmer is willing to let you start a large compost pile on their
land.
Many large commercial mushroom farming operations actually process and sell their spent
mushroom substrate as branded compost for gardens.
HOW TO GROW MUSHROOMS – THE SEVEN BASIC STEPS
70
The process of growing mushrooms is a mystery to most people. Although there are a few ―how to
grow mushrooms‖ tutorials around, many of them skip out on a lot of steps and make it seem way
easier than it actually is. (Add “seeds” to straw and poof! Mushrooms!)
This leaves a lot of people in the dark. Admittedly, mushroom cultivation is quite different from
growing garden plants; but the process can be simplified all the same.
There‘s no way a complete guide to growing mushrooms could be described in one single post, but I
hope to provide a basic outline for people who want to learn more.
So – although there is an endless array of specific cultivation techniques in use around the world,
growing most mushrooms generally consists of the same 7 steps.
STEP 1: GROWING OUT A CHOSEN MUSHROOM
CULTURE ON AN AGAR FILLED PETRI DISH
This involves placing mushroom spores or a viable tissue sample of mushroom on a nutrient rich
media. This needs to be done in an extremely clean environment so that bacteria and molds don‘t
land on your petri dish and out-compete the mushroom culture.
STEP 2: TRANSFERRING THE MUSHROOM CULTURE
(KNOWN AS MYCELIUM) ONTO STERILIZED GRAIN
Again, in an extremely clean environment, cut a sample of mycelium and transfer it into a jar
of sterilized grain. The mushroom mycelium will start to grow out, running across and devouring the
grain, eventually taking over the whole jar.
71
STEP 3: EXPANDING THE GRAIN JAR
EXPONENTIALLY TO CREATE GRAIN SPAWN
Bits of grain, now called spawn, can be used to inoculate numerous other sterilized grain jars,
exponentially increasing the volume of available spawn. One jar can typically be used to spawn ten
more jars of similar size.
STEP 4: SPAWNING THE GRAIN INTO A SUITABLE
SUBSTRATE AND FRUITING CONTAINER
Once you have a satisfactory amount of grain spawn, it can be used to inoculate a substrate on which
the mushrooms will eventually grow. The type of substrate used is dependent on the species of
mushroom you are growing.
Typical substrates include straw, wood chips, or compost. Depending on the type of substrate used, it
will also have to be pasteurized or sterilized prior to inoculation.
72
STEP 5: ALLOWING THE MYCELIUM TO OVERTAKE
THE SUBSTRATE
Once the substrate is inoculated, the mushroom mycelium will continue running, consuming
nutrients and engulfing the substrate. Once the entire substrate is engulfed in mycelium, you can
attempt to induce pinning.
STEP 6: INDUCING PINNING OF THE MYCELIUM BY
ALTERING THE ENVIRONMENTAL CONDITIONS
When the environmental conditions are suddenly changed, usually by dropping the temperature and
increasing the humidity, the mycelium will start to form little knots which eventually turn into pins.
Check out this article to learn about the mushroom fruiting environment.
73
STEP 7: ALLOWING THE MUSHROOMS TO FRUIT.
HARVEST YOUR MUSHROOMS IN SUBSEQUENT
FLUSHES
Finally, many of these pins -if given the right conditions- will continue to grow, drawing up water
and nutrients from the substrate and rapidly turning into full sized mushrooms. If a proper
environment is maintained, a healthy substrate can produce numerous ―flushes‖ of mushrooms,
allowing the cultivator to harvest the mushrooms 2 or 3 times.
One incredible aspect of mushroom cultivation is the ability of the mushroom mycelium to grow out
exponentially, achieving mass thousands of times its original size. For example, a fingernail size slice
of culture from a petri dish will grow out to fill a quart size grain jar. That grain jar, in turn, can be
used to spawn ten more jars. Those jars can be used to spawn another 100 grain jars, which in turn
can be used to spawn 1000 jars!
Eventually, the mycelium will lose vigor and become exhausted, but it is nonetheless incredible that
a tiny piece of mycelium can go on to produce thousands of pounds of mushrooms.
This is in no way a comprehensive guide to learn how to grow mushrooms – but simply a basic
outline of the process. I plan to write more about these steps and many other mushroom topics, with
great articles appearing here on our blog.
In the meantime, interested readers should consult the book ―Growing Gourmet and Medicinal
Mushrooms‖ by Paul Stamets. This book provides an incredible overview of mushroom cultivation,
and is a must read for anyone interested in growing mushrooms.
74
Beginner's Guide to Growing
Mushrooms
Introduction: Beginner's Guide to Growing Mushrooms
This guide is a step-by-step guide for beginners that want to grow mushrooms. I didn't come up
with most of these techniques (actually, probably not any of them) and will cite sources when
possible. I'm not trying to take credit for any of this, I'm only aggregating information to make
things easier for people interested in growing since there is a lot of content out there, so I'm just
going to simplify it down and show you what to do and when to do it. I recommend following
this exactly for your first attempt, and if you feel like tweaking it then do so on your next grows.
Step 1: Gather Your Equipment
The easiest, cheapest, and most accessible method is the "popcorn tek" (see here for more info:
http://www.shroomery.org/9035/Popcorn-Tek-w-pics) You can also use rye berries or something
else but let's just keep it simple and focus on the popcorn for this. To avoid confusion, this list is
only for the jar / inoculation phase. More stuff will be listed in another step.
75
Here is what you'll need:

Pressure cooker

1qt widemouth jars - (I like the widemouth ones, they have more room on the lid which you will
want)

Scotch tape

Polyfill (the stuff in pillows - if you aren't near a fabric store or someone that has this, buy the
cheapest $4 pillow at target and tear it open. It's probably cheaper that way anyway)

A big clear storage bin (for a still air box - more on this below)

A drill and hole saw (or some other way to cut big holes in your tub for your hands to fit
through)

Latex gloves (not 100% necessary but can't hurt)

Rubbing alcohol

Strainer

Aluminum foil (get the stuff that says heavy duty if you can)

Hand sanitizer (maybe not necessary but to be clean!)

A lighter

Lysol Neutra Air

Some spore syringes

Optional but useful: An alcohol lamp
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 2: Preparing the Jars
Once you have all your stuff, the first thing you'll want to do is soak 2 bags of the popcorn.
Simply dump 2 bags in a big bowl, fill it up with water about 2" above the top of the popcorn
and walk away for about 24 hours. 2 bags should fill up at least 7 jars, probably more.
76
Note: You will be filling your jars up approximately 2/3 full of the popcorn. Spore syringes are
typically 12ml - each jar will need just 2ml, so that is enough for 6 jars. Obviously if you have
10ml syringes, it's enough for 5. If you want to start with just 1 syringe, you can probably use 1
bag of popcorn and split it evenly between 5 or 6 jars.
While you're soaking your popcorn
You can be getting your jar lids all setup. You can get real fancy with jar lids, but let's just not do
that yet. You'll want to poke 2 holes in your lids, a large one in the center and a small one toward
the edge. You can drill then or punch them with a screwdriver and a nail if you want but just be
careful not to cut yourself, the edges are sharp!
The large hole in the center is for the polyfill, it allows a 'gas exchange' which basically means it
lets CO2 escape the jar without letting contaminates come in. The small hole is to put your spore
syringe through, so make it a bit bigger than the syringe needle but not too big. You will stuff the
polyfill in the center hole and put a piece of scotch tape over the inoculation hole. There are teks
on this out there if you have detailed questions on how to stuff that polyfill hole. Some people
use micropore tape over this hole, I haven't done that so I can't say if it's any more or less
successful but if you do use that, make sure you put a couple strips of it on because 1 strip seems
too porous to me. Note in the picture of the jar lid, it's on upside down - we do this because we're
not trying to seal this thing up like we're canning grandma's pears here.
24 hours later
Once your popcorn has soaked for 24 hours, dump it into a strainer and rinse it off real quick.
Then put it in a pot, fill it up with fresh water to about 2" over the top of the popcorn and turn on
your stove. (we are NOT pressure cooking this but you can use your pressure cooker if you don't
have a large enough pot, but make sure the lid is off!) Bring the water to a boil. Once the water
begins boiling, set a timer for 40 minutes. Make sure it stays at a nice low boil, nothing too
crazy, and keep stirring it now and then to prevent any burning on the bottom of the pot.
After 40 minutes, check a couple corns by putting your finger nail in them to make sure it can
somewhat easily dig in - you should be able to squish one between your fingers. When this is
ready, turn off the stove and dump your wet hot popcorn into a strainer. Do not rinse it here,
because as a friend told me its like taking dishes out of a hot dishwasher, the hotter it is the more
the steam comes off and dries it up. I like to get my corns up around the edges of the strainer and
mix them around with a metal spoon ever few minutes for about 15-20 minutes until they're
basically dry to the touch. The goal here is not to get any excess water in the jars.
Now, start scooping popcorn into the jars, get them around 2/3 full - you want room on top so
you can shake these jars later - don't overfill them. Close the lids upside down as shown in the
picture.
Once all of your jars are ready to go, cover them with your heavy duty aluminum foil.
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
77
Step 3: Pressure Cooking & Work Area Prep
Hopefully you read the manual for your pressure cooker, don't take my advice on how to operate
this thing. But now you'll want to add the minimum amount of water to operate it safely (there is
probably a line inside) and put your foil-covered jars in. Depending on the size of your pressure
cooker, you can fit probably up to 7 jars in at once. You CAN put a couple jars on top sideways.
Lock the lid on, do everything the manual says to do and then put it on the stove (or plug it in or
whatevever you do with the one you have). Wait until the pressure gauge gets up to 15psi and
start your timer for 50 minutes. Don't walk away from this thing, stay in the same room for the
next 50 minutes and adjust the heat on your stove as necessary to keep it at 15 psi, it's pretty easy
to do but just don't walk away from it. Maybe put on some headphones and listen to some Pink
Floyd or something for the next 50 minutes, keeping an eye on that pressure gauge.
Once the 50 minutes are up, turn the heat off and walk away. DO NOT OPEN THE
PRESSURE COOKER! I let this sit overnight personally, but a few hours will probably do as
well. Of course, make sure there is 0 pressure and it's cooled down for a long time before you
open it or you're going have a bad time. Also, you want the corns to be cooled way down so you
don't inoculate them and burn up your spores because well then you've wasted a lot of time.
While your jars are cooling you might as well start preparing your work area.
Get your big clear tub and cut some big holes in it that you can fit your hands through and work
in, this is going to be your still air box (there are teks out there for this if you need more
instruction). The idea here is that when you inoculate, you do it inside this box where
contaminates aren't blowing around. I use a big 5" hole saw for this, but if you don't have that,
feel free to look up "still air box tek" or check google images for some examples.
Put some foil on top of your table or your work area for the heck of it, spray some of your lysol
inside of your box, over the foil, and around the room. Sing "The Sound of Music" while you do
this if it makes you feel good.
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 4: Inoculate... Then Wait!
Once your jars are nice and cool, go ahead and gently spray around the area with Lysol again
maybe 15-30 minutes before you start. Take a shower, put on some clean clothes and do your
final preparations.
Put the following inside your still air box:

Scotch tape

Lighter
78

Your Jars (if you can fit them all in)
In a handy place outside of your still air box, have:

A folded up paper towel with rubbing alcohol on it.

Your syringe(s) with the caps still on

Gloves if you have them

Hand sanitizer
Now I get a little extra clean here, it might not be necessary but I would rather be safe than get
contams. What I like to do is: Wipe my hands and wrists with hand sanitizer, let it dry a bit and
put on the gloves. Then I reach in and pull the foil off of the tops of the jars and take it out of the
box. Next, I do a quick wipe over the scotch tape'd inoculation area with the rubbing alcohol, and
I take the paper towel with the alcohol out (so it doesn't get all flammable in there when we use
the lighter). I then remove the gloves. I now have a pile of garbage next to me, outside of the still
air box, containing foil, an alcohol soaked paper towel and a pair of gloves.
Now put on a fresh pair of gloves and grab your syringe. Shake the hell out of it hard and fast for
a minute or so, get the spores all spread out in the liquid, make sure there are no clumps.
Put your hands inside the still air box and remove the cap on the syringe. Light lighter, hold it
under the needle until it is red hot. Let the needle cool off a few seconds until its no longer red
and puncture the scotch tape on your first jar. Aim the needle toward the side of the jar, so the
spores/liquid spray against the glass and run down into the popcorn. Use only 2ml of liquid from
the syringe. Remove the syringe and quickly put a piece of scotch tape over the hole you just
punctured. Move that jar to the other side of the clean air box.
Now, light the lighter and get the needle red-hot again. You will do this every time between
every jar, to prevent any possible cross contamination between jars. Repeat until all of your jars
are complete.
Once all jars are complete, remove them from your still air box and put them up in a closet or
something, I put the jars back in the box they came in personally and put a towel on top. Ideally
you want to keep these at around 73 degrees farenheit but anywhere between 70 and 86 is
probably ok, some people say its good to have it in the 80s and others say it makes it more
susceptible to contamination. I do know low-mid 70s works fine.
Now go put all your crap away and wait! You should see mycelium forming somewhere in 5-10
days. If it comes early, welcome it. If nothing is happening in 10 days wait til 14 or so, maybe
more. But usually within a week you'll see something.
79
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 5: Shake Em Up... and Wait Some More!
If you're anything like me, you eagerly inspect your jars daily. Look for contamination. If there is
green stuff, bag the jar up and throw it out. Take the financial hit and don't open it and let those
nasty green spores out, just toss it. This happens from time to time, don't get discouraged if a jar
or 2 get contams, instead be happy about the jars that are not contaminated! There are other types
of contams, so do some research on this especially if you see anything not white in there.
Once the jar is around 70% full of mycelium, shake it up. Shake side to side, bang the jar against
something (some say use a car tire) try not to shake it up and down, we don't want the corns to
hit the polyfill if we can avoid it. Once everything is all shaken, your jar will look a little sad but
don't worry just put it back where you found it and wait a couple days - your mycelium will be
spreading faster and better.
Wait until the jar is 100% colonized by mycelium and then... Wait 5 more days! Yep, wait 5
more days to make sure all of the corns in the middle that you can't see get colonized as well. But
don't worry, we have stuff to do during this 5 days to prepare for the next stage!
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 6: Prepare Your Monotub(s)
This tek has worked perfectly for me: http://www.shroomery.org/10858/How-to-do-Coir and
that's what we'll be doing.
Time to do some shopping, you'll need:

A couple tubs depending on how many jars of corn you have. (If you have 4 or 5 jars you can
use 1 tub, somewhere around the 66 or 70qt. If you have more, you can split it into 2. I have used
various sizes and personally I prefer clear ones so I can check on them without opening them.
Let's assume you have 4 or 5 jars right now)

Some coir bricks

Some vermiculite (the fine stuff not the chunky junk - go to your local hardware store and get a
giant bag of this to keep around.)

Some big trash bags

Micropore tape
80

Polyfill (you should still have)

Drill - around 1" +/- (or a knife to cut some holes)

Scissors or a sharp razor

Latex gloves (for the hell of it)

A 5 gallon bucket with a lid

A thermometer (a cooking/candy type is perfect)

Temp/humidity monitor (pick one, doesn't have to be this one)
Preparing your tub(s)
Prepare your tub(s) by drilling 1 hole on each side, in the center about 4" from the bottom.
Tape over the holes with your micropore tape, I use 3 pieces of tape here so its not allowing any
fresh air in, but does let CO2 out. (you may be able to just use regular tape over these holes at
this stage, I have some tubs where I didn't have any holes in them yet and they worked fine)
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 7: Prepare Your Substrate
Once your popcorns are 100% covered with mycelium (+5 days) it's time to add them to the tub.
Again, we are using this tek http://www.shroomery.org/9035/Popcorn-Tek-w-pics so read it, I'm
giving an abbreviated version here.
Pasteurize your substrate
Take one of your empty 1qt jars (if you have any around) and use it like a measuring cup, put 4
quarts of water in a pot and put it on the stove. While that's happening, open your coir bricks and
drop one into the 5 gallon bucket.
Using your 1qt measuring system, scoop up 2 quarts of vermiculite and put that in the bucket as
well (see tek).
Once the water comes to a boil, carefully remove it from the stove (you're a grown up you know
how to do this safely I hope) and pour it in the 5 gallon tub over the top of the brick of coir and
vermiculite. Put the lid on top of the bucket and walk away for about 30 minutes.
81
30 minutes later, open the bucket and stir around the now-swollen up coir/vermiculite - I use a
big metal kitchen spoon for this and I like to be wearing latex gloves for good measure. Just
make sure any chunks of coir get broken up, and close it back up for another 3 or 4 hours.
After 3-4 hours open up your bucket and check the temperature with your candy thermometer.
If it's over 80 degrees Fahrenheit, put the lid back on and wait another couple hours.
Once the coir/verm mix is 80 degress or less, we are ready to transfer the popcorn into the tubs.
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 8: It Puts the Corns in the Tub
Assuming you have 4-5 jars of mycelium-coated popcorns: Wash your hands, put on your gloves
and dump the entire contents of your 5 gallon bucket into a large trash bag. Now, open up your
jars 1 by 1 and dump the corns into the bag with the substrate.
Once all of your corns are emptied into the bag, gently shake it around and kind of 'kneed' the
bag from the outside - just mix the corns into the coir.
Next, cut the bag down a bit so it's just a few inches above the coir / popcorn mix and place the
bag inside the tub. At this point, I like to trim up the edges so the bag is below the air holes
(remember the holes are still taped up, we do not want fresh air in this thing yet) You can tape
the bag up along the sides if you want, I don't do this but you can if you want.
Wedge the thermometer/humidity gauge in there somewhere, put the lid on the tub and go put it
away in a dark closet. I keep it at the same temperature as I kept the jars, somewhere in the lowmid 70s. Now you wait again, for another 7-10 days.
If your tub is clear you can peek inside a bit - the sides of the tub should be wet from the
humidity - you should basically see the dark coir becoming more and more consumed by
mycelium.
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 9: Get a Little Fresh Air
After 7-10 days you should have a tub pretty much full of mycelium and its time to start
introducing fresh air (people call this FAE: Fresh Air Exchange). There are all kinds of opinions
and teks out there for this, I'm going to tell you what I have seen work.
At this point, remove the tape from the holes and fill them loosely with polyfill. Leave the tub(s)
out in a room that has some natural light in it, there is no reason to get crazy here with lighting
just put them out in a room somewhere that has a window in it if you can.
82
Use a timer like this to turn on a fan 3x a day. For example 8am for 30 minutes, 12pm for 30
minutes, and 7pm for 60 minutes. Don't put the fan super close, just have it on in the room. The
goal is to introduce fresh air, get rid of the CO2, yet keep the humidity that the coir/vermiculite
continues to provide in the tub. Check your humidity meter and make sure it is over 92%. It may
go down into the 80% - 85% while the fan is on, that's actually perfect and when the fan turns off
it should go back up in a couple hours to 95%+
If your humidity gets low (and stays low) you can mist the tub, but you shouldn't have to do that
if everything is setup properly.
So now we wait again for another 7-10 days.
Add TipAsk QuestionCommentDownload
Step 10: The Fruits of Your Labor
After about a week you will probably see some primordia forming in your bin, it's like little tiny
white balls on/in your mycelium, these are going to turn to pins. A couple days later you'll see
your first pins which will soon grow into big adult mushrooms.
The Basics of Mushroom Growing
admin Growing Mushrooms At Home
Many people don‘t realize that mushroom growing is something that can be done right
in their own greenhouse. And since mushrooms are such a wonderful food, this can be
a superb addition to one‘s diet.
83
However, you may need to change things about in your greenhouse if you want to
grow mushrooms, because the one thing these edible fungi cannot stand is too much
light. Yes, they can tolerate a little light, but perhaps I should modify that statement
and say that they can tolerate a VERY little light.
Better than even a little light is no light at all. They also like a stable temperature
range, so make sure that stays within the range of between fifty and sixty degrees
Fahrenheit, anything more than that will cause problems for your mushrooms. You
need to be careful to keep out any draughts. The air needs to be moist, because that‘s
just how mushrooms like it.
If you‘ve looked at any mushrooms growing in the woods, you‘ll have noticed that
they don‘t exactly grow in the soil. Similarly, when you grow them in your
greenhouse, or even in a garden shed, you‘re going to have to arrange (or buy) a
special growing medium for them.
There are two ways of going about mushroom growing, and the method that you
choose will depend upon just how many of these fungi you plan to grow. If you‘re
starting out on the very smallest scale, a log of wood should do just fine for a growing
medium. Yes, that‘s absolutely right, you can grow mushrooms on a log of wood. And
why should that surprise you, haven‘t you seen them growing around tree stumps in
the woods? All you need is a good log of some reasonably hard type of wood, oak
does just fine.
Take that log and make a few reasonable holes in it, and fill each of them with some
mushroom spawn. Then let nature take its course. If, on the other hand, you intend to
grow mushrooms on a larger scale, you‘re going to need to bed them down in trays
filled with a special mushroom growing medium. Well, I did tell you before that they
won‘t grow in soil. What you‘re going to need is some compost mixed up with straw
or a mixture of straw and horse manure. You can plant the mushroom spawn in this,
and your mushrooms will grow just fine. If you need to grow more mushrooms, you‘ll
just have to set out more trays and set aside more space for your mushroom growing.
84
Growing Mushrooms – The Basics Of What You Need To Know
By Dave Marock, LICHEN GROUP
With the Agri4Africa Resource Guide
Whilst most of the world‘s mushroom supply comes from commercial mushroom farms,
growing mushrooms is not as simple as many people believe. In fact, mushroom growing is one
of the most technologically advanced and sophisticated agricultural industries in the world.
Commercial mushroom production costs are high and require extensive capital investment.
Whether you grow on a small scale as a hobby; or on a larger scale, modern mushroom
production is highly mechanized, requiring detailed knowledge and a high level of management
skill and commitment for success. This commitment is required from the start all the way
through to cropping and marketing.
In South Africa, the white button and brown mushrooms are mainly grown, both of these
belonging to the genus Agaricus. Furthermore, it is mainly a fresh market with only a small
percentage of SA‘s mushroom production being processed into the canned product, sauces and
other value-added products. It seems that the South African consumer has clearly made the
choice to eat fresh mushrooms rather than processed mushrooms.
Less than 5% of the mushroom market is taken up by so-called exotic mushrooms, including
Pleurotus spp (Oyster mushrooms) and Lentinula spp (Shiitake). Although these mushrooms
seem on paper to be less complicated to grow, one should not be deceived in thinking that it is an
easier option. Even though oysters grow on uncomposted cellulose material (no casing material
is needed), and Shiitake on woody substrates containing lignin compounds, they still require the
sophisticated technology to manufacture substrate and then climate-controlled growing rooms.
The basic process of growing Agaricus Mushrooms is set out below
85
1. Compost
Mushrooms belong to the fungi kingdom, which are heterotrophic organisms which lack
chlorophyll and consequently produce their own food from organic material. In the commercial
production of Agaricus bisporus this food-and energy source is provided by a highly complex
substrate or compost. Selective compost for mushrooms is found at the end of a complex,
controlled biological process involving micro-organisms. When well prepared, it is a living
ecosystem that is suitable for the growth of mushrooms. To consistently prepare a high yielding
compost is probably the most difficult part of the growing operation. In the South African
industry, most growers produce their own compost unlike in Europe for instance where
mushroom companies specialize in making compost for resale or growing the mushrooms from
compost purchased from a composter. Unfortunately, in SA there is no compost readily available
to purchase so mushroom farmers will have to make their own compost first.
Ingredients
The basic ingredients for preparing a synthetic compost are:
Water – this is essential for the composting process and eventually for growth of the mushroom;
on average 70-90% of all the mushroom‘s water requirements are extracted from the compost
Straw (mostly wheat) – supplies the carbohydrates and provide the correct structure to allow
aerobic conditions Broiler chicken litter – acts as a nitrogen source and supplies microbes needed
for the composting process to take place Gypsum – added to improve the structure, buffers the
pH and aids the release of ammonia
The quantities used depends on the chemical analysis of the ingredients, in particular, the
nitrogen content of the chicken litter.
A typical formula is : 1 000 kg straw (moisture content 15%) 800 kg broiler chicken litter
(moisture content 40%, nitrogen 4%) 85 kg gypsum
The process of changing these ingredients into a suitable medium for mushroom production
takes place in distinct phases.
86
1.1. Prewet
The purpose of this phase is to wet and mix the raw materials. The biological activity does not
take place unless water and a supply of available nutrients are added. Straw bales are stacked
outside and continuously sprayed with water (often the run-off water from the compost yard
collected and aerated in a pit). After wetting for 5-6 days the bales are broken and part of the
chicken litter (30-50%) is mixed through. The portion of chicken litter applied depends on the
quality of the straw, the time of the year (in summer less is added in the beginning) and the
nitrogen content of the chicken litter. The initial wetting and mixing phase occurs over a period
of 7 days.
1.2. Phase I – Rick Method
After wetting and mixing the compost is formed into long narrow stacks or windrows (typically
1.8 – 2m wide and 2m high) either in the open or in a covered area. The stacks are mechanically
turned with compost turners
(usually every other day) and watered. At some point, the balance of the chicken manure is
added and mixed through. This process allows for micro-organisms to grow and reproduce. Their
activities cause the temperature in the pile to rise. The centre of the stack should reach 70 –
80oC. Much of the nitrogen present is ammonified. Such a conventional phase I usually takes
about 7 days.
1.3. Phase 1 – Bunker Method
Over the last few years, the use of specially built bunkers with underfloor ventilation and
sometimes with an open or partly open top has become popular. This is to make the process more
environmentally friendly by reducing the ―smell pollution‖ dramatically. After the initial prewetting and mixing of the raw ingredients (5-6 days) the material is built into a loose flat pile and
turned every other day for approximately another 7-10 days. At some point, the balance of the
chicken manure is added and mixed through. Temperatures in the pile are kept from exceeding
65oC in order to allow microbial activity. From there the material is filled into a bunker. Oxygen
levels in the bunker are monitored to ensure that compost does not go anaerobic. The supply of
air from below the pile results in the bulk of the compost reaching temperatures of more than
80oC. The wetted and mixed ingredients are usually taken out of these bunkers at 3-4 day
87
intervals and put back (total of about 7 days). The move during this process ensures thorough
mixing of the ingredients. At these high temperatures, microbial activity ceases and chemical
reactions take place leaving the compost with a dark-brown colour indicating caramelization and
browning reactions have occurred. At this stage the compost should be pliable, the water content
72-75%, the smell of ammonia very strong and the pH in excess of 8.
2. Phase II (peak heating/pasteurization)
Phase II is carried out under carefully controlled conditions mostly in bulk in specifically
designed tunnels with aerated floors. Phase II has two main purposes, firstly pasteurization (to
free the compost from undesirable microbes and pests) and secondly conditioning (to become
mushroom specific by getting clear of ammonia and free of readily available carbohydrates).
Through proper manipulation of temperature and ventilation, these two primary objectives are
accomplished.
Initially, the compost is allowed to settle so that it is more or less uniform throughout. This may
take up to 10 hours and is called equalizing or levelling. Thereafter the pasteurization (also
referred to as the kill) phase occurs where the temperature is allowed to rise to 60oC (either by
itself or by the introduction of steam). The temperature is held at this level for 8-10 hours. After
pasteurization, the temperature of the compost is reduced to 48oC for the conditioning process
which usually is about 4 days. In total, the phase II process usually lasts about 6 days. At the end
of the conditioning, the compost must be stable and free from ammonia. It is then cooled to
around 25oC by circulating filtered air through the material.
At this stage, the compost should have a moisture content of 68-72%, nitrogen content of 2.32.4% and pH of around 7.3 and ready to be spawned
88
3. Spawning & Spawn Running
Spawn (mushroom mycelium grown on sterilized grain), commercially available, is mixed into
the compost at a rate of 8 litres per tonne (0.5% by weight). The spawned compost is filled into
the final growing containers (bags, trays or shelves) for incubation or ‗spawn running‘.
This part of the process takes place in purpose-built tunnels, spawn running rooms or in the
growing rooms. These rooms must be well insulated and equipped with air-handling systems to
maintain temperature and relative humidity levels. The air that enters such units should be
filtered in order to eliminate dust that carries large loads of bacteria and fungal spores that may
cause disease. During this stage, mushroom mycelium is growing from the sterilized grain into
the compost. The end result is a compost completely colonized by mushroom mycelium.
Compost temperatures during spawn run should be maintained at 25oC by using filtered air.
Compost temperatures normally reach a peak around the 9th day and it is advisable to have
cooling facilities in the spawn running room. The humidity in this stage is kept high and the
carbon dioxide concentration at 2% or higher. During the spawn run, which takes between 14
and 17 days, the mushroom mycelium colonizes the compost
4. Growing
To grow mushrooms economically all year round there must be a substantial investment into the
growing rooms. Growing rooms must be well insulated and purpose-built to ensure maximum
yield and quality of mushrooms. It is necessary to control the temperature, maintain high relative
humidity and supply adequate fresh air in the growing room. Air that enters a growing room
should also be filtered. Good lighting is needed to assist harvesters later in the harvesting of the
mushrooms.
89
There are three main types of growing room systems, these being the shelf system, tray system
and lastly the more economical to start up, the bag system. These systems have different
advantages and disadvantages and must be thoroughly researched prior to deciding which system
to adopt.
4.1. Casing
To stimulate the mushroom mycelium to convert from the vegetative to the reproductive phase, a
4-5cm thick layer of a suitable material needs to be applied onto the surface of the fully
colonized compost.
If spawn run was done in bulk the compost has to be filled into the growing containers,
compacted and then covered with a casing layer. The casing layer protects the compost from
drying out, and it provides a suitable microclimate for the pinhead to develop. The casing layer
serves as a water reservoir and therefore needs to have a high water holding capacity. It must
have a neutral or alkaline pH of about 7.5 and a low conductivity. Usually, the casing layer
harbours bacteria that stimulate pinhead formation.
The most popular and effective material used these days is a mixture of humified black peat and
sugar beet lime (for adjusting the pH), imported from Europe. In South Africa, no natural peat
moss is available, only limited resources of autogenous (reed sedge) peat.
The casing layer has to be applied as evenly as possible on a level and compact surface. The
mushroom beds should be watered as soon as the casing is applied. Frequent waterings should be
given up to about 2 days before mushrooms are initiated (pinning). The amount of water depends
entirely on the nature and structure of the casing soil. The aim is to raise the moisture level to
field capacity and to prevent water from running through into the compost.
During the pre-pinning, the compost temperature is maintained at the same level as during the
spawn running (25-270C) with a high CO2 level (2 – 3%) and relative humidity (90 – 95%).
4.2. Pinning
Once the mycelium has reached the surface of the casing (9-11 days after casing), the crop is
induced to fruit. This is done by reducing the air temperature to 16-18oC over 3-5 days and also
reducing the carbon dioxide concentration in the air to about 0.8-1% by generous ventilation.
This temperature ‗shock‘ combined with the lower CO2 leads to pin formation. At this stage the
humidity can be lowered to about 87-90%, a constant supply of fresh air to keep the CO2 below
2% and an air temperature of about 18oC will encourage pin outgrow and usually takes between
90
5-9 days. Higher CO2 levels and higher temperatures lead to fewer pins developing and lower
CO2 levels and temperatures will lead to more pins developing.
4.3. Cropping
Fruiting occurs in breaks or flushes beginning about 17 days after casing and continues at weekly
intervals. Generally, three breaks are picked and then the crop is removed to make room for the
next crop. Between breaks, the beds should also be watered. To reduce discolouration, chlorine
can be applied with the water at a rate of 90120ml/100litres.
In South Africa mushrooms are picked by hand and therefore it is a hugely labour-intensive
exercise employing many people in the areas around the farms.
Button mushrooms are picked when the cap reaches maximum size and before the veil opens.
They are individually packed with an upward, twisting pull. The lower part of the stem is cut off
with a sharp knife and the mushrooms are graded as they are picked and placed directly into the
marketing containers. The brown mushrooms are harvested as closed buttons and sold as
Portabelinnis or they are harvested as big open mushrooms sold as Portabellos.
It is of utmost importance that mushrooms should be handled with extreme care as they are
bruised easily. After harvesting they should be cooled as soon as possible, transported in cooled
trucks and displayed on refrigerated shelves. The most suitable temperature in a cold room is 24oC with high relative humidity.
5. Post Harvest
At the end of a mushroom crop, the growing room and its contents should be sterilized with live
steam. The compost temperature should be held at 70oC for 8-12 hours. This eliminates pest and
91
diseases that might have appeared during the growing cycle and also kills mushroom spores and
living mycelium that may transmit virus disease. The spent compost should be removed from the
farm as soon as possible as it poses a source for pests and diseases. Spent mushroom compost is
much sought after as a valuable weed-free fertilizer for gardens and in most cases sold to
landscapers to be put back into the earth.
6. Other considerations
It is very difficult to estimate the total cost of setting up a mushroom growing facility. Many
factors need to be considered, such as cost and availability of raw materials, the market size and
proximity, the composting process (the extent of mechanization, composting in ricks or bulk
tunnels, aerated floors, blending lines etc.), the growing system (bags, trays or shelves), labour
cost, size of the facility etc. A rule of thumb that the larger commercial mushroom farmers work
by is R2 million per ton of mushrooms that you want to grow per week. This investment can be
broken down as R1 million for the composting and Phase II sections and R1million for the
growing rooms. This excludes the costs for a packhouse, distribution fleets and staff buildings
such as change rooms and toilets.
Mushroom growing is a scientific operation which requires meticulous record-keeping to achieve
consistent results. Records and data sheets should be kept on each compost, from the time of prewetting until it is finally removed from the growing room as spent compost at the end of the
crop. Such data should include the composition of the compost, analysis of the raw materials and
the compost at various stages, growing parameters, performance of each batch of compost in
terms of quality of mushrooms, size and yield.
For those interested in mushroom farming, it is important to do your homework before investing
in land or a production facility.
92
The Basics Of Mushroom Growing.
Mycology (the study of Fungi) is rapidly gaining popularity as society comes to the
realization that fungi can provide several physical, cognitive, economic, environmental,
and psychological benefits. Fungi are some of the oldest organisms on the planet, and
interestingly shared a common ancestor with humans until about 1.5 billion years ago,
when they split from the ―animalia‖ branch of the tree of life. This split occurred when
organisms in the animal branch began to encapsulate nutrients in a cellular sack (a
stomach) for digestion, whereas Fungi continued to digest at an individual cellular level.
Fungi propagate their genetic code through the dispersion of spores, and survive by
consuming non-living nutrients from their environment (mostly in the form of detritus
and decaying material). Therefore, they play a crucial role in the health of any ecosystem
as they are the primary decomposers of both plant debris like cellulose/lignin and
dead/decomposing animal tissue. Furthermore, they also have extraordinary capacity to
recycle/decompose toxic material, from petroleum oils, to nuclear waste.
The benefits which Fungi provide are not limited to the ecosystem level, and they can
also have significant benefit to both the physical and psychological health of an
individual. Several edible/gourmet mushroom species (Lions Mane and Shiitake in
particular) promote increased cognitive, cardiovascular, and mental health, while
Psychoactive varieties (Psilocybe Cubensis in particular) have shown remarkable results
in the treatment of many psychological conditions.
These benefits have catalyzed many people in Canada to begin growing their own
mushrooms for use as nutrition OR medicine, and while the greatest information
repository known to man (the internet) is filled with forum posts/homemade
tutorials, most of which give a glossary overview and closer resemble an ―easy bake
cookies‖ recipe, rather than an in-depth manual/tutorial describing the intricacies of the
mushroom life cycle.
There are several excellent resources that have been published in print (Like The
Mushroom Cultivator by Paul Stamets) however we at Spores Lab want to make
information on how to safely and efficiently grow your own mushrooms free for all
individuals to benefit from!
Before we get into the specifics of cultivation, let‘s go over the basics of the mushroom
life cycle under natural conditions.
If mushroom spores are successfully dispersed in an environment with sufficient nutrients
and specific environmental conditions, they will "germinate" and form what is called
―mycelium‖.
93
Mushroom Mycelium consists of a mass of branching root-like strands, each strand a
single cell thick, called Hyphae. Mycelium can be described as the vegetative portion of a
fungus (where all nutrients and energy are put towards growth instead of gene
propagation). A Mushroom culture will continue to grow in the "mycelial state" as long
as nutrients are available, and as long as the environmental conditions are congruent with
this ―stage‖ of the mushroom life cycle. This part of the life cycle (where the mycelium is
growing but no mushrooms are present) is often called ―spawning‖ or ―colonization‖.
The next step in the mushroom life cycle happens once mycelium has fully ―colonized‖
the medium it is growing in. At this point (under natural conditions) changes in
environmental conditions (like temperature and humidity) will trigger the mycelium to
switch from a ―spawning‖ (mycelium) state to a ―fruiting‖ (mushroom) state. In this
fruiting state mushrooms will grow out of the mycelial mat, and mushrooms will continue
to sprout until all available nutrients and moisture in the environment are depleted, or
environmental conditions are changed back to conditions congruent with mycelium
growth.
Psychedelia.io is the premiere Canadian provider of all 'Classical' Psychedelics -including but not limited to Psilocybin Mushrooms, DMT, LSD-25, and Mescaline.
Psychedelia is a collective of highly educated Psychonauts, with designations including
microbiology, organic chemistry, and analytical chemistry. We leverage our academic
backgrounds, and decades of experience cultivating, extracting, studying, and
synthesizing psychoactive molecules to provide reliable, consistent, and safe
Psychedelics to all of Canada.
We cultivate, extract, and synthesize our products in a sterile laboratory facility, with the
utmost care and attention paid to every portion of each process. Our products are offered
with test results, and shipped discreetly to your door anywhere in Canada! Whether you
want to buy DMT Canada, buy LSD Canada, Buy Shrooms Canada, Order Microdoses
Canada, or just learn more about the effects of these psychedelic substances, Psychedelia
Canada is the place to go!
In addition to our online store where you can order psychedelics and have them shipped
discreetly to your door anywhere in Canada, we also offer a plethora of information on
Shrooms, DMT, LSD, and Mescaline (the 4 most popular psychedelics). Read peer
reviewed studies, learn what each different psychedelic feels like, how to prepare for a
psychedelic experiences, what the proper dosage is for each substance, and more.
Explained above is the mushroom life cycle under natural conditions, however when
cultivating in an artificial environment certain steps (like working from an isolated
culture, or adding extra nutrients via a fruiting medium before switching to fruiting
conditions) can be taken to increase potency and yield. Most people will begin the
94
cultivation process, with a mushroom spore syringe or Liquid Culture syringe, however
a syringe is not the only way, and not necessarily the most efficient way to grow
mushrooms (especially at scale).
Advanced mycologists can clone mushroom tissue by placing it in an *agar medium*.
This process (called ―isolation‖) creates a culture that has a narrow genetic profile, and
often results in faster ‗colonization‘ time, higher yield, larger fruiting bodies
(mushrooms), and increased potency. Further isolation from the initial mushroom tissue
sample can be done using agar, by selecting especially strong mycelial strands and
propagating these onto a new agar petri dish.
Another way in which yield can be increased when cultivating indoors is through the
addition of a ―fruiting medium‖ when the mycelium has completely colonized its initial
medium. A fruiting medium provides more capacity for water retention, provides some
nutrients, and creates a larger surface area on which mushrooms can form.
*Agar is a high-nutrient gelatinous medium, the caveat to working with isolations/agar is that a “flow hood” is highly
recommended. (a flow hood consists of a HEPA filter enclosed in a box with a fan situated opposite the filter. This allows filtered
are to be continually blown over your workspace)*
Since this guide is aimed at the ―hobby‖ cultivator, we will cover the process of
cultivation using a Spore Syringe. That means this guide can also be applied if you are
using a Liquid Culture Syringe. If you are interested in learning more about agar cultures,
or commercial scale growing, please contact us!
Regardless of whether you will start with an Isolation in an agar medium, a Liquid
culture Syringe, or a Spore print/syringe, you will need to procure some supplies and
equipment. We recommend budding mycologists begin with a ―Still Air Box‖ (instead of
a Flow Hood which is quite expensive), a stovetop pressure cooker, and use jars with
inoculation port lids.
*An inoculation port lid has a rubber self-healing injection port for error-proof inoculation.
*A pressure cooker is used to sterilize the mediums that the mushrooms grow in
*A Still Air Box (SAB) is a container that provides an area with no airflow. One can be built for ~$50.
It is imperative that we now stress the importance of STERILITY. When you grow
mushrooms, you aim to create a perfect environment for fungal growth. Unfortunately
this environment is also ideal for bacterial spread, or the spread of other unwanted fungi.
Every cubic meter of air (in an unfiltered environment) contains millions of fungal and
bacterial spores, and each of these spores can potentially compete with your desired
culture. You must take extreme care to clean/disinfect all surfaces, tools, & body parts
that may come into contact or come near your mushroom culture. This is also why spawn
95
medium and fruiting medium must be sterilized/pasteurized in a pressure cooker, and
why a SAB/Flow hood is so important.
STEP 1 - Preparing Spawn Medium.
Once you have sourced a sterilizer and built a still air box (or flow hood), the first step is
to prepare the spawn medium. There are several mediums that can be used, however if
you desire the maximum yield possible, Rye Grain Berries are the best option (Rye grain
can be soaked to an Equilibrium Moisture Content (EMC) of ~ 47%)(higher than any
other grain).
Organic, NON-Fungicide Rye Grain Berries
Begin by placing the grain in a 5 gallon bucket, then fill the bucket with cold water and
pour out the water (just the water) several times until the water is pouring out noticeably
more clear than at the start.
Then fill the bucket 6-8‖ above the grain level and leave the grain to soak for 24 hours.
This soak serves to hydrate the grain, and also causes the endospores of any contaminants
which may be present in the grain to germinate, so they can be killed during sterilization
(an un-germinated endospore CAN survive sterilization).
When you return (24hrs later) the water level will have dropped, meaning that the grain
has absorbed this moisture. Pour out the remaining water and fill the bucket 6‖ above the
grain level, this time with HOT water (NOT BOILING WATER, JUST TAP WATER
AT MAXIMUM HEAT).
Let the grain sit in this hot water for 20 minutes. This heat differential allows the grain to
fully ―plump‖ and absorb the maximum amount of moisture possible. After 20 minutes
pour out the hot water and strain the grain using a colander until the colander stops
dripping. Next spread the grain out evenly in a tray/tub/tote and place it in a high-airflow
area for about 1 hour to dry the exterior of the grain berries (the container you will fruit in
later on in the growing process usually works well).
96
Grain drying in the Spores Lab Facility
Ideally you want the grain berry to be as saturated as possible, but little moisture on the
exterior surface of the grain berry (the industry term for this level of saturation is ―field
capacity‖). A rough ―rule of thumb‖ you can use to estimate the correct dryness is
picking up a small handful of grain then turning your hand upside down. A few grains
should stick to your hand.
Now place the grain in your colonization container (we recommend using MYCO-PRO
Spawn Jars), seal the container, and place it in your sterilizer. Ensure that the lid of the
sterilizer is properly and evenly seated.
Cook times will vary based on whether you use an electric heated pressure cooker or a
stovetop pressure cooker.
If using a stovetop cooker, pressure cook at 15PSI for 2.5 hours.
If using an electric heated pressure cooker, pressure cook at 15PSI for 4 hours.
*If your sterilizer does not have the capacity to pressurize to 15PSI, add 1 hour to the cook time*
Also be cognizant of how much grain you put in the jar/bag, keeping in mind that putting
more medium will take longer for the container to colonize. We recommend filling
a spawn jar ¾ full, and filling a type 3T bag about ½ full of hydrated grain.
After the cook, let the sterilizer cool for ~1 hour and then clean the surface of the
sterilizer BEFORE opening it. When you open the sterilizer there is a brief pressure
differential that sucks some air into the sterilizer as the pressurized air inside the sterilizer
escapes, and you want the area/surface as clean as possible when this happens.
*If you are using a regular mason jar we recommend also using an inoculation port lid,
and if you are using a bag we recommend a Type 3T 0.2 micron filter autoclavable bag.
If you are using a bag we also recommend cutting a small slit in the corner of the bag
prior to sterilization, so the bag does not rupture during sterilization. Re-seal the bag
(using an impulse sealer or a ―mushroom bag clamp‖) immediately after opening the
sterilizer.
STEP 2 - Inoculation.
After you have removed the jars/bags from the sterilizer, you are now ready to inoculate!
Inoculation should be done within 24hr of sterilization. This is because of the finite
amount of moisture in the grain, moisture which has to last the entire life cycle. You will
97
not only lose out on potential yield if you wait too long to inoculate, but you will also be
giving the mycelium a more difficult environment to grow in.
Inoculation should ideally be done in front of a flow hood, or in a SAB, however if
you are using an inoculation port lid then a SAB/Flow hood is not totally necessary, but
still recommended.
Begin by putting on your PPE and cleaning. Don't be afraid to ―overkill‖ for this step, as
it‘s this point where the risk of contamination is greatest. Wipe down the surface of the
spore/liquid culture syringe, the surface of the colonization container, your arms, and all
surfaces in the area with disinfectant. Gather your supplies and place them in the still air
box, or intelligently position them in front of the flow hood (with regard to the direction
of airflow coming from the flow hood). If using a SAB place all supplies in the box, then
put the lid on the box, put your hands in the gloves and liberally disinfect the interior of
the box with an aerosol disinfectant spray.
A Screen Grab from our video tutorials - tutorials found here
Unwrap the sterile 18ga needle (which is included in our spore/liquid culture syringe
products), remove the plastic Luer Lock tip from the syringe, and attach the needle to the
syringe by inserting and twisting the needle.
Sterilize the needle (with either heat or disinfectant spray) then inject the needle into the
inoculation port and depress the plunger of the syringe. (if you are using a jar with
an inoculation port lid). If you do not have an inoculation port lid we recommend drilling
a small hole (1/4") in the lid of the jar (if you are using a bag then the needle can be used
to poke a hole in the bag). Immediately cover this hole with Micro-pore tape after
inoculation.
We recommend inoculating with at least 5mL of Solution per 1L of container space.
You can use more solution than this, and it will result in a faster colonization time (each
of our syringes contains 10mL of spore or liquid culture solution), but we don't
recommend using less than this amount.
STEP 2.5 - Colonization.
98
After you inoculate, shake the bag/jar to evenly disperse the liquid culture/spore solution,
and then leave the bag/jar in an environment which has the right conditions for
colonization (described below).
Colonize in an area that is mostly dark (the darker the better), has about 50% ambient
humidity, and has steady temperature between 75-77F (23.8-25C) I's crucial that the
temperature remains below 80F (26.5C) during the colonization stage.
Colonization from a spore syringe will take anywhere from 2-6 weeks depending on how
much grain is in your container, how much spore solution you inoculate with, and how
optimized you are able to make the environmental conditions.
Colonization from a Liquid Culture syringe will take anywhere from 2-4 weeks. LC
syringes will consistently colonize faster than spore syringes because an LC syringe
contains an already alive and growing mycelial culture.
The container is ―fully‖ colonized when you are barely able to see grain, and the
majority of the jar/bag is a solid block of white mycelium.
An uncolonized grain jar
A partially colonized grain jar
A fully colonized grain jar
99
If at any point during the colonization period you notice a pungent odour coming from
the container, or notice any coloration that is NOT white mycelial growth, quarantine that
container from the rest of your operation immediately and dispose of it. It has likely
become contaminated and if you do not remove it from the area it will contaminate the
containers around it.
Various forms of contamination
STEP 3 - Making a Fruiting Substrate.
Once your colonization medium is fully colonized you are now ready to add a nutrient
rich, high water-retention, pH balancing fruiting medium to form what is called
a “Fruiting Substrate”. Like colonization mediums, there are many options for a
fruiting medium, however we recommend using our tried and tested MYCO-PRO™
Fruiting medium.
We have, after years of development, testing, and refining, created an ideal and easy to
use fruiting medium, which is a mix of Vermiculite, Coconut Coir, Spaghum Peat
Moss, Worm Castings, and Calcium Carbonate (CaCO3). Laboratory testing done on
this medium after 4 flushes of mushrooms had already been harvested showed that there
were still ample nutrients & minerals left in the substrate, and pH was still well within the
accepted range for fungal growth.
If you want to purchase the inputs and mix them yourself (instead of purchasing the
medium from us), here is the recipe -
Begin by mixing the Vermiculite and Coconut coir at a 50/50 ratio by
volume (litres).
Next add 100 grams of powdered CaCO3, 500 grams of Peat Moss, and
300 grams of worm castings for every 40 Litres of dry mix.
Then add 1.25 litres of water for every 4L of dry mix, and mix well.
100
Keep mixing and adding small amounts of water until the medium drips a steady stream
when lightly squeezed. The reason we recommend starting with 1.25L of water for every
4L of dry mix, then adding water as needed is due to variance in hydration level of the
ingredients from different suppliers. Alternatively, if you use MYCO-PRO™ Fruiting
Medium, simply add 1.25L of water for every 4L of dry mix for pretty close to perfect
moisture content.
When the proper moisture content has been achieved (when the mixture drips when
lightly squeezed) you can EITHER Sterilize the medium - by placing in a Type 14A 0.5 micron filter autoclavable bag and
cook the medium at 15PSI for 90 minutes.
Pasteurize the medium - by placing in a Type 14A 0.5 micron filter autoclavable
bag and cooking in a conventional oven at 180 Fahrenheit for 6 hours.
*If using a pressure cooker, don’t forget to cut a small slit in the corner of the bag so it does not
rupture during sterilization*
Once you remove the sterilized fruiting medium from the cooker and allowed the
medium to cool, you are now ready to mix it with the colonized grain spawn to create a
―Fruiting Substrate‖.
This job will be very difficult to perform in a SAB, so we recommend it‘s performed in a
clean area, and preferably in front of a flow hood. Cleanliness is not AS crucial for this
job (compared to inoculation) as by this point the mushroom culture is established and
can fight off potential contaminants, however sterility is still very important and overkill
doesn't hurt. Wipe down the surface of the spawn bag/jar, the surfaces of the tray/tub/tote
that you will fruit in, your tools, your hands and arms, and the surface of the bag that the
fruiting medium was sterilized in. Position your supplies so that you don‘t have to reach
over the fruiting substrate container to grab them, and be cognizant of airflow if you are
using a flow hood.
Begin by putting on your PPE (gloves, mask, hairnet) and placing the fruiting container
(the plastic tub/tote/tray that you will fruit in) inside a black plastic garbage bag. Reach
into the tub/tray/tote and tamp the garbage bag to the corners of the tray, being careful to
touch the bag minimally. Now cut along the top of the fruiting medium bag and pour this
into the tub/tray/tote. Repeat this process for the colonized grain bag or jar.
We recommend the mixture be roughly 25% colonized spawn and 75%
fruiting medium.
101
A Screen Grab from our video tutorials - tutorials found here
Mix the two mediums well. You want everything to be as well dispersed as possible to
allow optimal colonization of the fruiting substrate in the shortest amount of time. After
the substrate is mixed well, tamp the surface lightly with a BBQ flipper so that it is as flat
as possible. This is to avoid water pooling during the incubation of the fruiting substrate
(note - colonization/spawning refers to one medium being colonized, whereas incubation
refers to a substrate, or a mix of mediums being colonized).
Now put the lid on the tray/tub/tote, cut the garbage bag about 2‖ below the lid all the
way around the tray, and remove the excess bag. Mark the date, strain, and any other
relevant information on the outside of the tub with a sharpie.
STEP 3.5 - INCUBATION.
After you mix your fruiting substrate in the fruiting container, leave it in an environment
which has the right conditions for incubation for approximately 7-10 days.
Incubation should take place in an area that is mostly dark (darker the better), has
about 50% ambient humidity, and has steady temperature between 75-77F. It is
crucial that the temperature remains below 80F during incubation.
You should also check the incubating tray/tub/tote periodically to make sure there is no
water pooling on the surface of the fruiting substrate. If water is pooling remove the lid,
wipe any water collecting on the lid, put the lid back on, and lower the ambient humidity
slightly.
If at any point during the incubation period you notice a pungent odour coming from the
tub/tray/tote, or notice any discoloration that is NOT white mycelial growth, quarantine
that tray/tub/tote from the rest of your operation immediately and dispose of it. It has
likely become contaminated and if you do not remove it from the area it will contaminate
the trays/tubs/totes around it.
The fruiting substrate is fully incubated when the surface is completely white with
mycelium.
102
A fully incubated fruiting tray in the Spores Lab Facility
A freshly mixed fruiting tray in the Spores Lab Facility
STEP 4 - Triggering Fruiting.
Once the fruiting substrate is fully incubated you are now ready to trigger fruiting by
changing the environmental conditions.
The three major changes you will make are the humidity level, the light schedule, and
the amount of airflow.
These changes mimic the natural environmental changes that occur when a mycelial
culture reaches the ―edge‖ of the medium it is colonizing. A good analogy is a compost
pile. When mycelium begins life deep inside the compost pile it is in a dark and lowairflow environment. As it grows towards the edge of the pile it is exposed to light and
higher oxygen levels, which trigger pinning. Adding humidity also serves to trigger
pinning (which is why in nature mushrooms often sprout after a heavy rainfall) and
additionally can extend the fruiting period by providing some moisture for the culture to
absorb and turn into fruiting bodies (which are up to 90% water).
At this point you should switch from a constantly dark environment to a 12/12 light cycle
(12 hours light 12 hours dark). Any light spectrum will work, however slightly ―cooler‖
lighting between 6000 and 7000 Kelvin is ideal.
Ideal lighting for fungal growth is in the 6-7k kelvin range
At this point you will switch the lid of the fruiting tray/tub/tote for a “fruiting dome” to
allow more airflow to the mushroom culture. Usually using the same tray/tub/tote as you
built the fruiting substrate in, flipped upside down works well. Cut a 2‖ hole in each
corner of the dome and stuff this hole with Hi-loft Polyfil. This serves as a barrier for
particulate matter/contaminants but allows airflow. We also use plastic clips to hold the
dome to the tray.
Left - Incubation Lid
Right Fruiting Dome
At this point the humidity in your tray/tub/tote environment should also be
raised. Accomplish this by misting the surface of the fruiting substrate daily, or
103
whenever there is NO humidity build up on the sides of the fruiting dome. Set your
sprayer to create as fine of a mist as possible. You do not want large droplets or pools of
water on the surface of the fruiting substrate.
How much you will need to mist also depends on the ambient humidity and the amount
of ambient airflow in your growing space. You can skip a day of misting if there is
excessive humidity buildup on the sides of the fruiting dome or if there is water pooling
on the surface of the mycelial mat. Ideally you want to put as much (clean) airflow as
possible through the controlled dome environment, but you also want the highest
humidity possible in the controlled dome environment.
After approximately 7-10 days in these conditions small Primordia or ―pins‖ will form.
These will quickly grow into mature fruiting bodies within 3-5 days. You should cease
misting the surface of the fruiting substrate once pins begin to show, but still try and keep
the humidity as high as possible in the tray/tub/tote. You can do this by misting the sides
of the dome (instead of directly misting the surface of the substrate).
Primordia (pins) beginning to form
STEP 5 - Harvesting/Taking Spore Prints.
You are now at the most enjoyable and rewarding part of the cultivation process! Your
patience and hard work over the past weeks/months is finally paying off, and
beautiful shrooms are fruiting out of your fruiting substrate. You should aim to harvest
your mushrooms right after the ―veil‖ separating the cap and stem breaks, and the cap
begins to open.
Cut the mushrooms cleanly off at the base of the stalk using sharp scissors. Scissors with
slightly curved blades work excellently. Also try not to touch the surface of the mycelium
when harvesting, wear gloves when harvesting, and try to handle the mushrooms the least
amount possible. You should be harvesting a few mushrooms almost daily, as some caps
will open before others. When all the mushrooms in a ―flush‖ have been picked you can
mist the surface of the fruiting substrate again to keep the humidity as high as possible for
the next flush!
Successive flushes will continue to happen until the mushroom culture has used all of the
available nutrients and humidity in the fruiting substrate. Typically a home/hobby
cultivator should be happy with 1-2 flushes before contamination starts to appear, at
which point the culture needs to be disposed of. If you are cultivating in a cleanroom
environment you can get up to 5/6 flushes.
104
If you will be taking a spore print you will need to let the veil separating the cap and stem
fully break and the cap open about ½ way. Then cut the cap off close to where the stem
meets the cap, and place the cap on a piece of tin foil. Leave the cap on the tin foil for
about 12 hours (this should also be left IN a SAB or in front of a flow hood). A good rule
of thumb for knowing when to cut the cap off is when the cap is at its most triangular
shape (the cap starts as a concave bulb shape and opens to become convex if you let it go
long enough). The triangular cap shape occurs at about the halfway point in this process
and is ideal for catching the entirety of the spore print.
Spore Prints taken in the Spores Lab Facility
When you return remove the cap from the tin foil and the spore print will have been
deposited. You can now scrape the spores into a sterile aqueous solution (sterilized water)
and draw the solution into a syringe to create a spore syringe! Or you can keep the spore
print for long term storage (prints remain viable for up to 10 years, possibly longer).
STEP 6 - Drying Mushrooms
The drying process for mushrooms is extremely easy, just place the mushroom fruiting
bodies in a low humidity, moderate temperature, high airflow area for 2-4 days. Near a
dehumidifier is ideal, but if you do not have a dehumidifier near a fan will also work,
albeit slower. Using a food dehydrator will also work, if you have one. If using a
dehydrator simply place the mushrooms in the dehydrator for 6-8 hours.
They are dry when the stems crack when the mushroom is bent.
How To Grow Mushrooms
Getting Started With Mushroom Grow Kits
In this section we have compiled a series of articles covering topics which are often asked by
both beginning and advanced mushroom growers alike. There are many and varied techniques
which can be used to cultivate mushrooms and other fungi, throughout the course of
experimentation you will discover the methods and techniques which work best for you in terms
of yield, effort and consistency.
Beginning with the first set of guides which discuss how to use a mushroom grow kit,
maintaining humidity, opening a kit and some of our most frequently asked questions.
105
The Basics of Mushroom Cultivation
Written by Nick Congleton
Unless you‘re a researcher approved by the FDA to conduct research on psilocybin or you‘re a part of
Oregon‘s fledgling medicinal psilocybin program, cultivating psychedelic mushrooms in the United States is
illegal. In fact, in most places in the US, it carries significant jail time. Magic mushroom cultivation is legal in
Austria, The Bahamas, Brazil, the British Virgin Islands, Jamaica, Nepal, Peru, and Samoa. This article in no
way promotes cultivation of psychedelic mushrooms.
That said, the cultivation process is similar to growing other species of mushrooms, and it begins with
compost. The makeup of that compost may vary, but it usually contains a mixture of damp, decaying material.
Both currently and historically, manure has been a common choice in the mix.
Once that compost has broken down sufficiently, mushroom growers will put the material through a second
round of composting that will use heat to pasteurize the material and kill unwanted organisms.
Next, mushroom spores need to be spawned into mycelium. This can be done by sterilizing grain and placing it
into a sterilized container and then exposing it to mushroom spores. With the container sealed to prevent
unwanted spores and microorganisms, the spores are given the chance to grow into mycelium and spread.
Once the grain is overtaken by the mycelium, it is called spawn. Spawn can be spread out over the compost
and given a chance to grow throughout.
After the spawn has spread throughout the top layer of the compost, a new layer called casing is spread over
the top. It usually contains a mixture of peat moss and vermiculite. This is the layer that mushrooms will
eventually grow on.
106
After a few weeks, the first tiny mushrooms should start to appear. This phase is called pinning, since the first
sprouts look like small pins. The carbon dioxide content in the growth environment will determine when this
occurs, but it usually happens with a very low concentration of carbon dioxide. Once the pins start to appear,
it‘s time to introduce fresh air.
Finally, the mushrooms will continue to grow and develop into the familiar fungus on the surface. Once
they‘re fully grown, they‘re ready for harvest.
This broad overview applies to many species of mushrooms, and is not intended to be a guide on how to break
the law. Leave the cultivation and scientific exploration to the legally backed experts.
Commercial Mushroom Cultivation
Guide 2022
Mushroom cultivation is one of the most significant agriculture business
in the world.
Mushroom Cultivation History
The first mushroom, ‖ Auricularia auricula,‖ was cultivated about 600 A.D. Later,
around 800-900A. D. ―Flammulina velutipes‖ were cultivated in China.
In India, commercial mushroom farming started recently, Himachal Pradesh, Punjab,
Haryana, Uttar Pradesh, Maharashtra, Tamil Nadu, Karnataka Andhra Pradesh is a
major mushroom producing state.
Nutritional Value Of Mushrooms
107
Mushrooms contain more protein than fruits & vegetables and, Mushrooms can also
be low in cholesterol.
Apart from their protein content, mushrooms can also be high in certain vitamins like
B, C, vitamin D, riboflavin, thiamine nicotinic acid.
Also an excellent source of iron, potassium, and potassium along with folic acid, a
component known for improving the blood and avoidance deficiencies.
Mushrooms are recommended as healthy food by the Food and Agricultural
Organisation of the United Nations.
Mushroom Cultivation In India
In India, a marginal farmers and small manufacturing units produce Fifty percent of
mushrooms, and the remaining mushrooms produce by industrial institutions.
There are two types of mushroom growers in India, and seasonal farmers produce on a
small scale.
While commercial mushroom framer who takes production continue entire year in
large scale.
Mostly both develop white button mushrooms to your domestic market and export.
The seasonal button mushroom growers are restricted to temperate regions like
Himachal Pradesh, Jammu, and Kashmir, hilly areas of Uttar Pradesh, hilly areas in
Tamil Nadu, and North Eastern areas where farmers take 2-3 plants of button
mushrooms at a year.
Commercial mushroom farming required heavy expenditure on the building
infrastructure, purchase of machinery and equipment, raw materials, labor, and
energy.
A mushroom grower needs to undergo a practically oriented training program.
108
In India, there are various government & NGO organizations provide, provide
mushroom cultivation training. However, NRCM is a pioneer institute that provides
training.
Our Indian government also promotes mushroom cultivation; hence they give
subsidies under a different scheme like the national horticulture board, the Ministry of
food processing, and APEDA.
Before making to start mushroom farming, decision following Factors have to be
Considered to become successful in the commercial mushroom production business :
1. The mushroom farm should be closer to the house of the farmer for successful
Participation and monitoring purposes.
2. Availability of lots of water on the farm
3. Easy accessibility to raw materials at competitive prices in the region
4. Simple access to labor at more affordable prices.
5. Availability of power at competitive prices, as electricity is a significant input
in mushroom cultivation.
6. The farm should be from industrial pollutants such as chemical fumes,
7. There should be a provision for sewage disposal.
8. There should be provision for future growth in the farm.
Types Of Mushrooms
There are various types of edible mushrooms available globally, but mostly four types
of mushrooms are cultivated in India.
1. White Button Mushroom
2. Portobello Mushroom
3. Dhingri (Oyster) Mushroom
4. Paddy Straw Mushroom
Among all the above, White Button mushroom has high demand the most popular
hence most farmer select this variety for commercially mushroom farming.
The average price for white button mushrooms is between 50-100 rs per kg. This
depends upon market demand. Hotels and metro cities mostly consume white Button
mushrooms.
Button Mushroom Cultivation Process
109
The cultivation of button mushroom ―Agaricus bisporus‖ species is chosen because,
Regarding production, it comes a first place in the world.
In India, the favorable season for mushroom cultivation is October to march.
The cultivation Procedure has five main steps.
1. Mushroom Spawn
2. preparing of compost
3. Spawning of mulch
4. Casing
5. Cropping and harvest administration
Mushroom Spawn:
the mushroom growing process starts from Spawn preparation
Spawn is planting material for mushroom cultivation. That is, it is a seed of a
mushroom. The mushroom spawn preparation required greater technical skill &
investment; mostly, mushroom spawn produces large institutes.
mushroom grower import spawn from the renowned source
here you can find a list of mushroom spawn producer
Good Qualities mushroom spawn has the following qualities
1. The spawn should Be rapidly growing in the compost
2. Provide early pruning following casing
3. high yielding
4. It must create a greater grade of mushroom
Preparing Of Compost
Compost is an artificially prepared growth medium from which mushrooms can
derive essential nutrients necessary for growth.
There are two primary methods for compost preparation:
110

Longer Method
Short Method
The short Method takes less time to prepare compost than the longer method but
requires more capital and resources. The compost made by the short method is
suitable for high-yielding mushroom production.

Longer Method:
This is an outdoor procedure and takes around 28 days in its conclusion with seven
turnings.
Materials are required for the longer method is as follows.
Ingredient
weight
Wheat straw
300 kg
Wheat bran
15 kg
calcium ammonium nitrate
9 kg
Urea
4 kg
Muriate of Potash
3 kg
Superphosphate
3 kg
Gypsum
20 Kg
Before creating compost, The mixture of wheat straw or paddy straw is placed for 1-2
days (24-48 hours) on the floor and spray water several times a day with a fixed time
interval.
111
Day 0:
In this stage, the above Ingredient except Gypsum is mixed well and makes a 5-feetwide, 5-foot-high stack. With wooden box help or any other equipment in grow room.
The stack‘s length depends on the amount of material, but the height and width should
not be more or less than the measurements are written above, and It kept as it is for
five days.
Water is spray as per the requirement of lower moisture in the outer layers. This
stack‘s temperature in about two to three days gets around 65-70 ° C, which is a good
sign.
First turnaround (6th day)
On the sixth day, start the first turnaround.
Keep in mind that each part of the stack should be thoroughly mixed during the
turning point, and enough air circulates so that humidity gets rid of each piece of
compost.
If the compost‘s moisture content is reduced, then the water is sprayed as per the
requirement. The size and size of the new pile are similar to the first one.
Second turnaround (10th day)
The second turnaround is similar to the first turnaround
Third turnaround (13th day):
In the third turnaround, add Gypsum follow the same procedure as the first
turnaround me & mix completely
Fourth turnaround (16th day)
same process as the first turnaround
Fifth turnaround (19th day)
same procedure as the first turnaround
6th Turnaround (22nd Day)
112
Seventh turnaround (25th day):
Sprinkle Nuwan or Malathion (0.1%). at this turnover
Eighth turnaround(28th day)
check Ammonia and moisture in compost on the twenty-eighth day.
To know the level of moisture, press the compost in the palm and check moister
level;
if the fingers become wet on the press, but the water with the compost does not
squeeze, in this condition, the humidity level is appropriate in the compost
in this situation, in the compost, 68-70 Percent moisture is present, suitable for seed
production.
To check ammonia, in compost, the compost is smoked, I if there is a smell of
ammonia, give the difference of 3 days should provide one or two flip-outs.
When the smell of ammonia is finally finished, and the sweet aroma comes from the
compost, then compost is spread on the floor and cool down to 25 degrees Celsius.
Short Method
Compost prepared by this method gives a high-quality product, and there is very little
chance of infections.
Ingredient
weight
Wheat straw
1000 kg
Chicken manure
600 kg
Wheat bran
60 kg
113
Urea
15 kg
Gypsum
50 Kg
This method is complete in two stages:
I- Outdoor Composting
Mix Wheat straw with chicken manure and spray water. The first turning starts on the
fourth day and creates a 45cm high heap.
On the seventh day, start the second turning whet bran, urea, and gypsum are add mix
thoroughly and maintain the inner temperature of the compost in between 70-75 ° C.
third turning start on the eighth day
on the tenth day, compost is transferred toward the pasteurization tunnel, and starts
the second phase of indoor composting.
II- Indoor Composting
In this stage, the pasteurization process is carried out in a closed environment.
Fill Compost in the pasteurization tunnel, and the moment the compost at the tunnel
has stuffed the doors, and new air damper is appropriately closed. The blower is
placed on for recirculation of air @ 150-250 cubic meter/ 1000 pound compost/ hour.
The stage II indoor composting procedure is complete in 3 phases:
I) Pre-Peak Heating Point:
After about 12-15 hours of mulch filling, the temperature of compost begins climbing,
and after 48-50° C is got, it needs to be kept for 36-40 hours together with the venting
system. Ordinarily, such temperatures are achieved by the self-production of heat
from the compost mass with no steam injection
114
Ii) Peak Heat PoInt :
Increase the warmth of compost to 57-58° C by self-production of heat from parasitic
activity if it‘s not obtained. Injecting the live steam at the majority chamber and keep
it for 8 hours to guarantee effective pasteurization. New air is introduced by launching
the fresh air damper into 1/6 or even 1/4 of its capacity, and the air socket is also
exposed to an identical extent.
Iii) Post-Peak Heat Point:
Lower the temperature slowly to 48-52 ° C.and keep until no indications of ammonia
have been found in compost. This can take 3-4 times in a balanced formula. After the
mulch is free of ammonia, complete clean air is brought on by opening the damper to
the utmost capacity and cool the compost down to about 250C, Which‘s considered
the favorable temperature for spawning
Spawning
The seeds are a mix of compost. Before seeding, wash the utensils used in seeding
and seeding in 2% formalin solution and wash the hands of the person working in the
seedling with soap to avoid any infection.
After this, add seed to 0.5 to 0.75 percent, that is, 100 kg G 500-750 grams of seeds
are sufficient for ready compost.
Casing Soil
The importance of casing soil would be to keep the moisture content and exchange of
pollutants inside the top layer of the compost, which assists in the correct
development of the mycelium. The pH of this casing soil should be 7.5-7.8 and have
to be free of any disease.
Maintain temperature and humidity in a mushroom grow room.
The casing soil is stacked on the cemented ground and can be treated with a 4%
formalin solution. The ground‘s rotation is completed, and it‘s covered with a
polythene sheet for another 3-4 days. Pasteurization of shell soil at 65°C for 6-8 hours
is shown to be a lot more successful.
115
3-4 cm thick coating of casing soil has been spread thickly on the compost once the
surface was coated with white mycelium of this fungus. Formalin solution (0.5%) is
subsequently being sprayed. Appropriate ventilation ought to be organized together
with water being sprayed a couple of times every day.
Harvesting Of Crop
Mushroom Pinhead initiation starts after 10-12 days, and the mushroom crop is
harvested in 50-60 days.
Harvest Mushrooms by light twisting without bothering the casing soil and When the
harvesting is finished, fill the gap on beds with fresh, sterilized casing material and
spray water.
The crop should be harvested before the gills are available because this might
diminish its quality and market worth.
Mushroom Productivity
Generally, the longer method of composting 14-18 kg mushroom produce & 18 – 20
kg mushroom produced from the short method from 1000 kg compost.
Post-Harvest Management
Harvested mushrooms softly wash with 5g. KMS solution in ten litter water. After
washing, remove excess water and pack these mushrooms in the polythene bag. the
package practices depend upon the market & your customer demand
116
Small Scale Mushroom Growing
Mushrooms are fungi that can be grown as a small-scale crop in your home. The fungi grow
from microscopic spawn that require moist, humid and dark conditions to turn into the fresh
mushrooms you find in grocery stores. Button mushrooms are an easy starter mushroom to
learn the growing and harvesting process. You can then branch out and try other varieties that
are appealing to you.
Preparation
1. Choose a location with an air temperature of 55 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit and humidity of 80 to
95 percent. Build wood plank mushroom beds about 50 inches wide and 6 to 8 inches deep.
Choose a length that fits best into the space. Leave 1-inch-gaps in the bottom of the planting
boxes to help with drainage and ventilation. Use a manure compost that consists of horse
manure, hay, poultry manure, gypsum and ammonium nitrate. Layer each ingredient into the
planting beds and moisten with water until it is the consistency of a damp sponge. Let the
mixture compost for 14 days, wetting it regularly and turning it every three days.
Planting
117
1. Plant mushroom spawn, or dust-like spores, on the compost once the growing medium stays at
a consistent temperature of 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. This temperature reduces the amount
of ammonia odor in the compost to prevent killing the spores. Broadcast spread the spawn
evenly over the compost and mix it thoroughly into the medium. Mushroom spawn is available
through seed companies and will have recommendations for the planting rate on the package
based on the type of mushroom. Keep the compost moist and cover the beds with damp
newspapers while the spores multiply. Apply a casing made from equal parts sphagnum peat
miss and limestone over the top of the sports after the white fungus has reached the top of the
compost. Sprinkling warm water over the compost keeps the growing medium moist and
humidity high.
Harvest
1. Mushrooms are ready to harvest about four weeks after you add the casing layer on top of the
fungus growth. Small mushrooms called ―pins‖ are the first to appear. These mushrooms are
ready to pick once the cap reaches a diameter that is the same as the length of the stem. You
want to harvest the mushrooms before the veil ridges under the cap open and stretch out. Twist
the mushrooms at the base of the stem to remove them from the growing medium, instead of
pulling on them.
Problems
1. Small scale mushroom growing has the same requirements as large operations. This can
become difficult if the growing location is a basement where you cannot control temperature
and humidity levels. Overcome these problems by choosing an area that is well-ventilated,
insulated and completely dark where the mushrooms are growing. Choose horse manure that
has been composted for at least 10 days to reduce ammonia levels and is steam pasteurized to
kill insects and diseases.
How to start a small scale mushroom growing business
118
A mushroom growing company could mean large earnings in a few weeks. Plus, beginning your
personal mushroom growing business is simple enough. Actually, here are steps to start a
mushroom growing company in only 6 easy steps:
Get your substrate and spawn
You will need mushroom spawn to begin the culture. Begin with oyster mushrooms, because
they are simple to grow and incredibly lucrative. You are able to create your own spawn using a
clean and sterile culture, or else you can purchase ready-to-inoculate spawn, which are
transported by providers.
Creating your own could be less expensive over time, however the start-up expenses could be
higher, therefore odds are buying the ready-to-inoculate spawn may be the approach to take for
you personally.
You will also have to purchase the substrate. Numerous farmers use hay or even wooden chips.
Hay is usually the most well-liked technique. You want hay that can be chopped up into small
pieces.
Put together the substrate
First, cut the hay into short pieces. Next, moisten the hay. Now you have to heat the hay in
boiling water. Carry on cooking for 30 minutes and then take away the hay and drain it. Next,
spread out the hay on the clean surface area and allow it to cool down.
Pack the plastic bags
Now you have to pack plastic bags with the hay and spawn. Load up 2 or 3 inches of hay into the
plastic bag after which gently spread the spawn on the top. Continue doing this till you have
nearly stuffed the tote, shut the top and poke openings in the bag.
Incubation
Now you have for incubation. Keep your growing region around 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Places
the bags on a shelving unit. Make sure to stop any kind of threats of sun light getting into the
area. Cover home windows and cracks.
Make use of a red ―darkroom‖ light if you want to check on your totes. When you begin to see
small pinhead weeds close to the air openings in your tote, you are ready to proceed to the next
phase.
Fruiting
For the fruiting space, you‘ll need a higher level of moisture. The heat will have to be 66 to 71
levels Fahrenheit. In contrast to the incubation room, you will absolutely need a lot of organic
light-at least twelve hours each day.
119
To shock your mycelium, that will pressure it into fruiting, transfer the baggage to some cool
spot for a day, like a basement or other cool location, after which transfer them back to the
fruiting space. As time goes on, cut away the bag, allowing mushrooms room to grow.
Harvest
Right before the mushroom caps are totally uncurled, then you‘re ready to harvest. To do this,
twist the stem away as close to the base when you are able to. You have now harvested your own
mushrooms.
8 Reasons Your Mushrooms Are Not
Growing
Learning how to grow mushrooms is like any skill. Sometimes you succeed. Sometimes
you fail. The important thing is to keep trying and learn from your mistakes.
Yet it can be really frustrating to start out with what you believe is a successful
mushroom project, only to have it produce nothing. Trust me, I know. It‘s happened to
me many times!
Although many factors may influence your success, there are some common mistakes that
can be easily avoided. I‘ve listed eight big ones below, along with practical solutions.
If you‘re just learning to grow mushrooms, review this list to save yourself both time and
heartache. Even if you‘re a veteran, it never hurts to come back to the basics.
Reasons Your Mushrooms Are Not Growing
1. Not Enough Moisture
Mycelium, the underground vegetative growth of a fungus, needs a moist environment to
thrive and produce mushrooms. Mushrooms themselves are mainly water, so if you let the
mycelium dry out or the humidity level get too low then nothing will happen.
120
See the picture to the right? I created this outdoor mushroom
project with cardboard, straw, and mycelium during one
summer. I then patted myself on the back for a job well
done, went on vacation, and totally forget about it for a
while.
As you can imagine, everything dried out in the hot July
temperatures. I was left with hard work wasted, and guilt
over baking my poor mycelium.
Solution: Pay attention to moisture and humidity levels! If you grow mushrooms outside,
make sure that you keep your bags or bed slightly damp. Make sure to mist or water when
you see and feel things drying out.
If you cultivate inside under sterile conditions, you‘ll need to monitor moisture and
humidity levels more carefully. A cheap hygrometer will help you do this.
2. Too Much Moisture
The opposite of the above problem, and it does happen. Too much moisture can lead to a
soggy substrate, mold, and standing water.
Standing water encourages bacterial growth and mold, two things that compete with your
mycelium. Although we want to keep our growing media moist, and may even soak it for
a day at first, leaving it in standing water is just asking for trouble.
Solution: It‘s all about drainage. If you‘re using a mushroom growing kit, don‘t let it sit
in water after you‘ve misted it. If you‘re using bags or bins or some other indoor method,
don‘t over-water and make holes in the bottom for water to run out.
Keep this in mind if you‘re trying to grow your own mushrooms outside as well. A bed
should have adequate drainage, and not be in an area where it will sit in water and
encourage mold.
3. Not Sterile Enough
121
The microbial world is a constant battle of good versus evil. Your mycelium needs to
take over and remain in control of your substrate, or it will lose out to mold and other
micro-competitors.
Failing to take this into account will lead to bugs, mold spores, and other unhealthy
things taking over your project. Even if it does produce mushrooms, you probably won‘t
want to eat them.
Solution: This is often easier to do when trying to grow
mushrooms in outdoor beds. Keep cleanliness in mind by
maintaining a good working environment. Follow obvious rules
like washing your hands and not working next to the litter box.
Depending on the type of project, you may want to prepare
your substrate first to discourage microcompetitors. Pasteurization of straw is one of these methods.
For some indoor projects like growing from spores, you‘ll want
to maintain strict sterility in order to avoid contamination.
Getting equipment such as a flow hood, autoclave, or pressure
cooker (right) is often necessary. Do a lot of reading before you do something like this.
It‘s not for beginners!
4. Not Enough Air Exchange
Mushrooms don‘t need as much fresh air as we do, but they still need it. Without any air
exchange carbon dioxide levels build up and your mushrooms will emerge as stunted,
spindly things that are all stalks and no caps. Very disappointing.
Solution: Make sure your project has a flow of fresh air. Don‘t place things in areas with
no air exchange.
If you‘re growing in a sealed environment, you may want to open it a few times a day for
fresh air. Just be aware that when you introduce fresh air you also introduce the
possibility of contaminants and lower humidity levels. It‘s a delicate dance!
5. The Wrong Environment
122
The key to learning how to grow mushrooms is to create an environment that‘s conducive
to the species that you‘re cultivating. Make them feel at home!
That means don‘t try to grow a warm-temperature mushroom in cold weather. Don‘t try
to cultivate a wood-loving species on straw. Make sure your mushroom substrate is
nutrient-rich. Basically, give the mycelia what it needs to thrive.
Solution: Research. Know what kind of mushroom you‘re trying to grow and what they
need before you begin. You don‘t have to read someone‘s PhD thesis, but a little
knowledge goes a long way.
6. Bad Spawn
Mushroom spawn that‘s old or has traveled a great distance may not be as vigorous and
may fail to thrive and produce. It‘s no great secret that you should have the healthiest
spawn possible to increase your chances of successfully growing mushrooms.
Solution: First off, only buy spawn from a reputable company. If you purchase from
someplace sketchy with bad business practices you‘ll get an inferior product. Ideally buy
from somewhere close to you, so your spawn doesn‘t have to go very far.
After that, the best advice is to use it or lose it! Don‘t let spawn sit around forever, as it
will weaken, create wastes, and possibly contaminate. Keeping it in the refrigerator will
extend its life, but it becomes less viable with every passing week.
7. Lack of Research/Understanding of the
Mushroom Life Cycle
You don‘t have to be a professional mycologist to
understand some basic principles of the mushroom life cycle.
Knowing how this organism works greatly decreases the
chances of your mushrooms not growing. You‘ll be better
equipped if you understand what mycelium is, how it feeds
itself, and what it needs to survive.
123
Solution: Again, research. You don‘t have to know everything, but some research, in the
beginning, is important.
Don‘t stress yourself and make things overly complicated. Learning to gr ow mushrooms
is fun! Think of it as a fun educational experience, one that‘s not restricted by the often boring boundaries of a classroom.
8. Lack of Patience
Mycelium takes time to grow into a substrate and grow mushrooms. In the case of some
mushrooms, like morels, it may even take years!
This is not an activity for the impatient, something I struggle with as a fairly impatient
person myself. Yet fear not, careful watching and waiting is greatly rewarded in this
hobby.
Solution: Ummm…be patient? Easier said than done, I know!
Enjoy watching things grow and getting into the rhythm of the mushroom life cycle. If it
looks like nothing is happening, don‘t give up too soon. Wait a little longer and don‘t just
write the whole thing off.
Often at this stage, I‘ve found that all a mushroom project needs are more water and a
little more TLC.
I sincerely hope this list hasn‘t intimidated you. Rather, it‘s just meant to outline some
things to keep in mind to increase your chances of success.
Learning how to grow mushrooms needn‘t be a complicated or confusing process.
Through reading and simple trial and error, I guarantee you‘ll eventually succeed.
Every failure is a learning experience. Besides, if you‘re learning and having fun, then
it‘s not really a failure, is it? �
124
The Most Common Mushroom Growing Problems and
How to Solve Them
Whether you are new to cultivating mushrooms or an experienced grower, there is always a chance you could
run into problems.
While growing gourmet or medicinal mushrooms can be straightforward, numerous things can go wrong.
Many factors can negatively impact your project, from contamination to inappropriate growing conditions.
Knowing the typical reasons why mushroom cultivation fails will allow you to avoid these potential pitfalls.
And in the worst-case scenario, you will know how to troubleshoot and hopefully prevent your hard work from
going to waste.
This informative guide discusses some of the most common mushroom growing problems you might
encounter. We will also explain some of the biggest challenges associated with each stage of the process and
how to solve them.
Common Mushroom Growing Problems
The process of growing mushrooms varies significantly depending on the species, method, and whether you
are growing indoors or outdoors. However, all grows have a few basic requirements, particularly:

Moisture

Fresh air

Light
Failure to provide enough moisture, air, or light will impair the mushrooms‘ growth. However, there are
numerous other factors to consider.
This article will focus on what can go wrong when growing mushrooms. For a general overview of the
process, check out our beginner‘s guide to growing mushrooms. Otherwise, read on to learn about the most
common mushroom growing problems and how to solve them.
125
1. Contamination
Fungi thrive in warm and moist environments. Unfortunately, these conditions are also ideal for contaminants
like bacteria and mold. These unwanted microorganisms compete with the fungus for nutrients and inhibit its
growth. They also make any mushrooms that do manage to form unusable.
Contamination is a significant threat, especially in the early stages of mycelium growth before the fungus has
developed an immune system. However, it is essential to be vigilant at all stages of growth and immediately
deal with any contaminants.
Solution:
It is essential to have a clean workspace and good personal hygiene. Sterilize all equipment with 70%
isopropyl alcohol, wash your hands, and wear gloves and a face mask where possible. Grains should also be
sterilized and substrates pasteurized before use.
Serious mycologists should consider investing in specialist equipment, such as a laminar flow hood and
pressure cooker. The former acts as an effective air filter, while the latter is necessary for sterilizing grains.
Serious mycologists should consider investing in specialist equipment, such as a laminar flow hood and pressure
cooker.
At a bare minimum, work should be carried out inside a still air box to minimize the risk of contamination.
Moreover, your mushroom project should be kept away from pets and disturbed as little as possible.
You should also familiarize yourself with the appearance of different contaminants that could affect your
grow. Healthy mycelium is white. Any brown, black, green, orange, or pink patches could be a sign of
contamination. Remove affected bags or jars from the grow space immediately and dispose of them safely.
2. Not Enough Moisture
As we have mentioned, moisture is one of the most critical environmental considerations when growing
mushrooms. Without enough humidity, the mycelium will dry out and die. Furthermore, mushrooms have a
high water content. If they do not have enough moisture as they grow, they can become dry and brittle with
cracked caps.
126
Solution:
Give your substrate a good soaking and squeeze out the excess water before inoculating it with your spawn.
If you grow mushrooms in an enclosed environment such as a unicorn bag or monotub, the substrate should
retain enough moisture until you initiate fruiting. Then, mist your container several times daily during the
fruiting stage, or invest in a humidifier.
If you are growing mushrooms outdoors, you may need to provide additional water during dry weather.
Choosing a naturally shady spot for your project or using shade netting can help to minimize water loss.
3. Too Much Moisture
Too much moisture can be as harmful to your mushrooms as too little. Puddles of standing water quickly
become stagnant and encourage the growth of contaminants like mold.
Solution:
Provide ample drainage and do not overwater your project. Little and often is better than drenching your
substrate in more water than it can absorb.
4. Not Enough Fresh Air
Fresh air exchange is essential for healthy mushroom formation. If there is too much carbon dioxide and not
enough oxygen, your mushrooms may be stunted with small or deformed caps.
Lack of fresh air can also cause ―fuzzy feet,‖ whereby mushrooms develop additional mycelium at the base of
their stems. While this is not necessarily harmful, it means the fungus is wasting energy that could be put into
producing more mushrooms.
Solution:
During the fruiting stage, open your containers for a few minutes once or twice daily to allow fresh air
exchange. Some growers recommend investing in a fan, although you can also fan your containers manually.
127
5. Not Enough Light
Mushrooms do not require light to produce energy in the same way as plants do. However, they do need some
ambient light to develop properly. Mushrooms grown in poorly lit areas tend to have long, spindly stems. They
may also lean in one direction as they search for light.
Solution:
If growing indoors, choose a room that receives enough natural daylight, or invest in a grow lamp. Outdoor
growers usually needn‘t worry too much but should avoid growing mushrooms in heavily shaded areas.
6. Wrong Climate
Different mushroom species naturally grow in different regions and, therefore, prefer different temperatures.
This is a crucial consideration for outdoor growers. Trying to grow a tropical species in a cold climate will
likely be unsuccessful and vice versa.
Solution:
Outdoor growers should research which mushrooms will grow well in their region and opt for those.
Indoor growers have greater control over their environment. Therefore, they can grow a greater variety by
using equipment such as a seedling heat mat to provide additional warmth if necessary.
7. Wrong Substrate
It is possible to grow mushrooms on various substrates, including wood, straw, coco coir, and compost.
However, choosing a suitable substrate for your mushrooms is just as important as choosing the right climate.
Some species are fussier than others and will not grow unless you provide the optimal medium. For example,
wood-lovers like reishi and lion‘s mane are unlikely to grow well on soil.
Solution:
Research the variety you intend to grow and make sure you provide its preferred substrate. You could also
consider supplementing with additional nutrients to maximize your yield.
128
RELATED ARTICLE
Growing Mushrooms in Coffee Grounds. It's easier than you think!…
8. Faulty Spawn
Sometimes a grow can fail simply because of faulty spawn. Possible issues include spawn that is already
contaminated or takes too long to arrive and dies.
Spawn can also go bad if you don‘t use it quickly enough. Either way, faulty spawn means your project is
doomed from the outset.
Solution:
Only buy spawn from reputable suppliers that have a fast shipping time. Check your spawn over when it
arrives and use it as soon as possible. You can store it in a refrigerator for a few days if necessary. However, in
general, the longer you wait, the more chance there is for something to go wrong.
9. Too Much or Too Little Spawn
Using the right amount of spawn can be a delicate balancing act. Too little will leave your substrate vulnerable
to contamination, and colonization will be slow. Meanwhile, too much could create excessive thermogenesis.
Thermogenesis means that as mycelium consumes nutrients from its substrate, it produces heat. Too much
spawn means too much thermogenesis, resulting in overheating and mycelium death.
Solution:
Do some research and use the appropriate amount of spawn for the volume of the substrate. Many growers
recommend using around 20% spawn to 80% substrate. However, this can vary markedly depending on the
species and substrate type.
129
10. Lack of Knowledge
You don‘t need to be a professional mycologist to grow mushrooms. In fact, it is a wonderful way to learn
about them. However, a complete lack of understanding could lead to errors and the failure of your crop.
Solution:
Before even starting on your first grow, do some research. Learn the basics of the mushroom life cycle and
what to expect. Find out which species are suitable for your climate, and decide whether you want to grow
indoors or outdoors. There are countless resources available online, so take advantage of them to avoid silly
mistakes.
11. Lack of Patience
Growing mushrooms takes time, and being impatient is potentially one of the biggest problems.
Mushroom farming can be labor-intensive, and some people may become overwhelmed, leading to
problems.
For example, overenthusiasm could cause you to initiate fruiting before your substrate is fully colonized. This
could result in low yields or, worse still, contamination. Another common mistake is not letting pasteurized
substrate cool sufficiently before adding the spawn and killing it.
Trying to do too much at once is also the downfall of many new growers. Mushroom farming can be laborintensive, and some people may become overwhelmed, leading to problems.
Solution:
Go slow and steady. Take your time to research each step thoroughly and resist the temptation to rush.
If you are brand new to growing mushrooms, consider starting with a commercial mushroom grow kit. These
are pre-colonized blocks of substrate that are ready to fruit. You just need to add water. Once you have
completed your first grow successfully, you can move on to using pre-made grain spawn and, eventually,
create your own.
130
Finally, don‘t give up hope if nothing seems to be happening. Some mushrooms can take months to begin
fruiting so wait a little longer, check the conditions are right, and hopefully, your patience will be rewarded.
12. Improper Harvesting
Even once you have successfully produced a flush of mushrooms, there are still things that can go wrong. For
instance, harvesting too early can mean the mushrooms have not developed fully and will be small and light.
Meanwhile, harvesting too late can cause the mushrooms to go bad, ruining all your hard work.
It is also essential to consider how you harvest the mushrooms to avoid damaging the mycelium. Keeping the
mycelium intact is the best way to ensure you get further flushes of mushrooms and boost your yield.
Solution:
Most mushrooms should be picked when the cap is just starting to open out but before the gills are fully
exposed. For oyster mushrooms, wait until the caps open out and start to curl up at the edges.
Harvest your mushrooms gently by holding the base of the stem and twisting them away from the mycelium.
You can also use clean scissors or a sharp knife.
Mushroom Growing Problems: Summary
Mushroom cultivation is a fun and rewarding hobby. You get to learn about the fungal life cycle and have the
satisfaction of watching your own delicious or medicinal mushrooms developing.
Although there are some potential pitfalls, most of them are easily avoidable. Do your research and watch out
for the most common mushroom growing mistakes listed above.
One final tip is to label everything and carefully log every stage of your project. That way, if something does
go wrong, you should be able to pinpoint your mistake and avoid making it again in the future.
131
Common Problems Faced by Oyster Mushroom
Growers
Pests Bacteria.
Bacteria. The most common bacterial problem encountered by growers is Pseudomonas tolaasii.
This is the same bacterium that causes bacterial blotch of A. bisporus. Symptoms of the disease
include reduced yield and orange discoloration and brittleness of the basidiocarps (Figure 9).
Infected mushrooms have a reduced shelf life. Constant and high RH, insufficient air movement,
overheating of the substrate (above 35°C), excessive moisture content, and especially a wet
mushroom surface may exacerbate P. tolaasii infection. Lowering RH to 80 to 85 percent, and
sprinkling the surface of the bags between flushes with 0.2 percent bleach solution may help
maintain control.
Figure 9. Mushrooms emerging from pasteurized substrate contained in black plastic bags
showing symptoms of bacterial blotch caused by Pseudomonas tolaasii.
Symptoms of mushrooms produced on substrate infested with P. tolaasii
include orange discoloration, brittleness, reduced shelf life, and reduced yield.
Fungi. Most fungi encountered in oyster mushroom production grow and develop on the
substrate and are very rarely parasitic. The most frequently encountered genera include
Aspergillus, Botrytis, Coprinus, Fusarium, Monilia, Mucor, Penicillium, Trichoderma, and
Trichothecium. Substrates that have only been pasteurized are more susceptible to infestation
than substrates that have been pasteurized and conditioned. Fungal infestation may be more of a
problem when substrates are supplemented with nitrogen-rich nutrients — especially if the
supplements are not commercial delayed-release nutrients. Infesting fungi may also be more of a
problem when substrate temperatures rise above 35°C. Higher substrate temperatures may injure
mushroom spawn, reduce mycelial growth rates, and leave the substrate vulnerable to
competitors such as Coprinus spp. (ink caps) and Trichoderma spp. (green mold).
Fungi of the genera Cladobotryum and Verticillium, known to cause disease of A. bisporus, are
rarely encountered in Pleurotus spp. cultivation. These fungi, when they are encountered in
oyster mushroom production, may be found mainly on aged basidiocarp and stipe residues.
Insects. Insects infesting mushroom tissues cause the greatest losses for growers, particularly
during summer months. The most important insect pests associated with oyster mushroom tissue
include Cecidomyiidae (Mycophila speyeri), Scatopsidae, Sciaridae (Lycoriella solani), and
132
Phoridae (Megaselia halterata, M. nigra). Oyster mushroom primordia are very sensitive to
chemical vapors, so using pesticide to control insects is difficult. Large clusters of deformed
oyster mushroom tissue resembling «cauliflower» have been observed after insecticides were
applied during primordial formation. Use of various flytraps and adherence to strict hygiene
practices, particularly during spawning and spawn run, help keep fly populations below
economic threshold levels. In the United States, Bacillus thuringiensis var. israeliensis (Bti),
when incorporated into the substrate at spawning, has shown excellent effectiveness against
sciarid flies.
Deformed Fruit Bodies
Deformed mushrooms may result from several causes, many of them still unknown. However,
most deformed mushrooms may be traced to insufficient ventilation, smoke, chemical vapors,
overheated substrate during spawn run, extreme low fruiting temperature (below 10°C), and
insufficient light.
Airborne Spores
Spore production. A single mushroom may produce up to 4 million spores per hour. Worker
exposure to airborne spores is a concern on most farms. Inhaled spores can cause an allergic
reaction in some workers. In the United States, masks are worn to filter out spores released from
the maturing mushrooms (Figure 10). Exposure can be minimized by introducing higher volumes
of fresh air 1 to 2 hours before harvesting and by wearing a proper mask.
Figure 10. Pickers should wear masks to reduce exposure to airborne mushroom spores.
Inhalation of spores may cause flu-like symptoms among sensitized workers.
Tilapia are important food fish cultured in developing countries. In the Philippines, in terms of
annual production these fish are second to milkfish in importance. Various farming techniques
are applied by the industry for commercial tilapia production in fresh and brackishwater ponds,
and cages and pens in lakes. Several factors contributed to the successful development of the
tilapia industry including the energy crisis which favored aquaculture over capture fishing,
improved technology made available by researchers and the ingenuity of Filipino fishfarmers.
133
Total tilapia production is estimated to exceed 50,000 tonnes annually. Cu0948lture methods for
producing fingerlings and market-size fish are discussed in detail. The critical issues that need to
be addressed for further expansion of tilapia farming to proceed are the need for improvement of
broodstock, commercial production of economical feeds and development of market strategies.
On the whole, however, the future outlook for tilapia farming in the Philippines is very encoura
134