“Tra da” and Chats on Hanoi's
Sidewalks
In order to truly grasp the essence of Hanoi, one must visit Tra da via he (sidewalk iced-tea
stall), where one can listen, observe, and fully immerse oneself in the city's vibe.
Finding common ground in Hanoi often begins with an invitation for iced tea. A glass of bitter,
chilled tea with a few frosty ice cubes not only quenches the thirst amid the scorching 40-degree
heat of summer, but also embodies a distinct cultural element of this capital city.
While Saigon is synonymous with iced coffee, Hanoi is inseparable from sidewalk iced tea.
These tea stalls can be found throughout the city: nestled in the maze of the ancient streets of
the Old Quarter, bustling wet markets, beneath the run-down residential complexes dating back
to the 1960s, or around high-rise office towers.
Patrons of these tea stalls come from all walks of life. Whether they are old or young, rich or
poor, dressed in business suits or casual shorts and tops, all treated equally. Once seated
around the plastic chairs encircling the shop's tables, they share a common affection for Hanoi's
unique cultural space—the sidewalk iced tea.
Even longtime Hanoi residents may not be able to pinpoint when iced tea first appeared in the
capital city, but over the years, this beverage has become an inseparable part of daily urban life.
These sidewalk tea shops are places where community stories resonate, a hub of social
interaction and even a reliable source of news. They are esteemed enough to be considered
brands in themselves: "If you need to know something, just ask the iced tea lady."
Here, all segments of society cross paths, sparse yet regular patrons, from morning until late
into the night. Tourists visiting the capital for the first time might wonder why Hanoians have so
much free time. On every corner, one can spot these sidewalk stalls, where patrons leisurely sip
their tea, flip through nostalgic newspapers, and casually engage in discussions ranging from
socio-political affairs to everyday life.
Thus, it is often said that to understand the true spirit of Hanoi, one must visit any sidewalk tea
shop, where they can listen, converse, observe, and fully experience every facet of this city.
These tea stalls have been the main source of income for countless families through difficult
times. Starting as small ventures by hardworking parents, they have enabled generations of
Hanoians to access education, succeed, and become world citizens. The price of a glass of iced
tea is almost a local currency unit in itself. People often refer to something inexpensive by
saying it costs “just a few glasses of iced tea.” This simple yet profound beverage has
embedded itself deeply into the collective consciousness of the city's inhabitants.
Previously priced as low as VND500 (US$0.020) per glass, the cost has gradually increased
with each stage of economic development. Even so, it remains one of the most affordable drinks
in Hanoi, accessible to people from all walks of life, from labourers to intellectuals, and even to
curious visitors wanting to experience Hanoi's culture.
In these sidewalk stalls, strangers become friends with ease, once they "tune in", they can
discuss everything from the mundane to the profound as if knowing each other for years. Elderly
locals who do not wish to stay indoors while all family members are out, often gather at these
tea stalls, where they watch the hustle and bustle of passersby and engage in nostalgic
conversations about life's ups and downs.
After a long day confined within walls of the offices, many white-collar workers find solace in
these tea shops. Despite spending all day in cool environments, the stresses of daily life remain
inescapable.
Speaking of tea, one cannot overlook its significance among students. In the past, when
finances were tight, iced tea outside school gates served as a classic meeting point for
discussing studies, exchanging notes, and reviewing lessons before exams. Even those who did
not particularly enjoy tea became accustomed to it over time, often forming close bonds with the
owner. Some alumni, years after graduation, may forget their teachers and classmates, but they
will never forget the tea vendor who served them and kept tabs on their debts.
Delving into its flavour, what makes this beverage universally appealing? Historically, there were
times when tea was considered a luxury beverage, reserved exclusively for royalty and the elite.
Due to its value and cost, tea came with intricate customs and elaborate manners—from the
process of scenting the tea, brewing it, to savouring it. These were sophisticated rituals that
were not meant for the working class.
However, over the years, tea gradually transformed into a humble drink for every household.
The method of enjoying tea became increasingly commonplace and approachable, including the
advent of iced tea.
While the Vietnamese tea-drinking tradition has been established for thousands of years, the
combination of tea and ice is a relatively recent phenomenon, dating back only about a century.
During the French colonial era, the people of Vietnam, particularly those in Hanoi, were first
introduced to the concept of cold ice. The French colonisers, unable to endure the sweltering
summers in the North, constructed an ice factory on Tran Nhat Duat Street to cool food and
beverages. Initially, ice was reserved for the colonial troops, high-end hotels, and bars catering
to Westerners.
By the early 1920s, the residents of the capital had gradually become accustomed to using ice
to iced drinks like coffee, orange juice, and lemonade. There were times when ice was a luxury
item due to increased demand and limited production capacity. At that time, a glass of brightly
coloured syrup with ice was a coveted treat for many children. With such a scarcity of ice, there
was hardly enough to spare for tea. After the subsidy period, as the nation's economy grew and
living standards improved, households began to acquire refrigerators, and ice production
facilities sprang up everywhere. This led to the widespread habit of adding ice to tea.
Sidewalk stalls typically offer a similar menu of traditional drinks like tea, nuoc voi, nhan tran
(traditional herbal leaves tea), and sometimes apricot or dracontomelon juice, along with a few
treats like peanut candy, gumdrops, lollipops which are simple snacks yet integral part of one’s
childhood.
Tea usually comes in two varieties: traditional dried tea and fresh tea. Traditional dried tea is the
most prevalent, made from processed and dried tea leaves, featuring a natural, rustic aroma.
The finished product is black, with tea leaves curling into a hook shape. The strong, robust
flavour of traditional tea is ideal for tea connoisseurs who prefer a "stronger taste," as this drink
helps maintain alertness throughout the day. In contrast, fresh tea is brewed directly from tea
leaves without undergoing any processing. The flavour of fresh tea is mild, not as stringent, and
it does not cause insomnia like traditional tea, making it popular among young people and
women.
Peanut candy is an essential accompaniment to tea. Despite significant changes in people's
dietary preferences over the years, iced tea shops continue to sell peanut candy. The rich, nutty
flavour of the peanuts, the sweetness of malt, and the aroma of sesame blend harmoniously
with a cup of bitter tea, creating an irresistibly addictive combination.
For young people who have grown up with the fads of lemon tea and milk tea, they often find
themselves wanting to reconnect with the slower pace of life from their "grandparents' time" as
they get older. Iced tea is not just a drink; iced tea shops are not merely places for conversing
and making friends. They have become iconic tourist check-in spots that embody the essence
of Hanoi.
Many longstanding tea stalls have transformed into "virtual check-in spots" thanks to their
nostalgic settings, deeply embedded in Hanoi's heritage. From the cosy corners on Chau Long
and Hang Bun streets to the scenic tea shops by West Lake, Sword Lake, and Truc Bach Lake,
or near the iconic St. Joseph's Cathedral- each exudes the essence of Hanoi.
Picture a mossy street corner with a weathered French building, where doorframes beckon with
an array of snacks and candies, lying on the exposed sidewalk of Hanoi, all perfectly framed.
Observing it, one cannot help but utter “What makes it so Hanoi”, it is as if the essence of the
entire city converges in the quaint confines of a small shop.
Amidst the ever-changing culinary landscape of the capital, where new and exciting dishes
emerge daily, iced tea remains resilient, silently standing as an indelible memory for Hanoians.