Stitches and Seams
Garment Applications in Retail
• Stitch: configuration of the interlacing of
sewing thread in a specific repeated unit.
• Seam: line where two or more fabrics are
joined
• Stitching: series of stitches embodied in a
material for ornamental purposes or
finishing an edge or both.
Stitch properties
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Stitch Size
1. Stitch Length
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Number of stitches per inch( spi).
This can also be referred to as stitch density.
High spi means short stitches and low spi means
long stitches
– Disadvantage of long stitches
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Less durable because they are subject to more
abrasion and grin through.
– Disadvantage of short stitches
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Can increase seampucker or weaken the fabric.
Stitch properties
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Stitch Size
2. Stitch Width
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Horizontal span covered in the formation of one
stitch or single line of stitch or single line of
stitching
Formation of such stitches requires multiple
needle or lateral movement of thread carriers
This is also referred as “ gauge”
Stitch properties
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Stitch Size
3. Stitch Depth
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Distance between the upper and lower surface of
the stitch.
Prominent factor in blind stitches
Stitch properties
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Thread Tension
– This involves:
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The balance of force on the threads as a stitch is
formed
The degree of compression on the fabric created
by the threads as a stitch is formed
– Tension also ensures a uniform supply of
thread and determines how well stitches
conform to the standard formation
– Too much tension causes:
1. Seam pucker
2. Uneven stitches
3. Unbalanced stitch formation
4. Weakened thread and damaged fabric
– Too little tension causes:
1. Excessive thread looping
2. Loose stitches
3. Uneven stitches
Stitch properties
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Stitch Consistency
– Uniformity with which each stitch is formed
in a row of stitches.
– When a stitch does not form or is skipped, it
appears as a long stitch in a line of smaller
stitches.
Stitch Classes
• 100 Class
– Single-Thread Chain Stitch
Stitch Classes
• 200 Class
– Hand Stitch
Stitch Classes
• 300 Class
– Lock Stitch
Stitch Classes
• 400 Class
– Chain Stitch
Stitch Classes
• 500 Class
– Overedge Stitch
Stitch Classes
• 600 Class
– Flat Stitch
Seams
• Certain seam types are more appropriate
for some products and fabrics than others.
• The best seam type is one that yields the
desired performance at the lowest cost.
Seam Dimensions
• Seam heading: is the distance from the
folded edge of the top ply to the first line of
stitches
• Seam Depth: is the thickness or
compressibility of a seam, both of which
are major factors in appearance and
comfort of a garment.
Seam Dimensions
• Seam length: is the total distance covered
by a continuous series of stitches, such as
aside seam.
• Seam Width: is the width of a seam
allowance, which is measured from the cut
edge of fabric to the main line of stitches.
This is the amount of fabric that extends
beyond the actual seam line.
Seam Classes
• Superimposed Seam (SS)
• The superimposed seam is achieved by
sewing two or more separate pieces of
fabric together.
• Lapped Seam (LS)
• A lapped seam is achieved with two or
more pieces of fabric overlapping each
other. LS commonly, have one ply of fabric
fold under itself for a finished edge.
Seam Classes
• Bound Seams (BS)
• The purpose of a bound seam is to finish
an edge of a garment.
Seam Classes
• Flat Seam (FS)
• Flat seams are constructed by having two
pieces of fabric meet precisely at their
edges.
Points to Remember
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Seam type selected according to fabric requirements using straight,
even stitching with correct stitch length and tension.
Seam finish appropriate for fabric, garment, and probable care.
Ends of all seamlines secured using a neat, effective method.
SDarts tapered to smooth point and firmly fastened at the point. - If
wide darts are trimmed they should be at least 1/2" wide.
Closed darts should be pressed toward center of garment. S Pleats
evenly spaced and hang straight without bulk at hemline.
Gathers evenly spaced.
Inside seams of collars, facings, necklines, bands and cuffs graded
and clipped as needed for smooth finish.
Facing, collar, and cuff seams understitched to prevent rolling.
Underlinings, interfacings, and linings smooth and firm, but not
heavy enough to appear bulky. Interfacings are necessary where
buttons and buttonholes are used.
Facing and hem edges finished as fabric and garment require.
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Plain seams pressed open before being crossed by another line of
stitching.
Fullness at top of sleeve evenly distributed; no tucks, pleats or
gathers unless the pattern is designed for them.
Hem width, selected according to garment, should be even. Seams
in hem should be graded to reduce bulk if necessary.
Hem stitches evenly spaced and inconspicuous from outside.
Fasteners neatly and firmly attached, as fastener requires.
Belt and belt loops neatly made and sturdy.
Zipper appropriately finished and smooth.
Buttons securely sewn in place with shank as required.
Hand stitching neat, even, and inconspicuous from the outside.
Stay stitching on off-grain or bias seams is desirable if fabric
requires it.
No loose threads or uneven seam edges.
• Correct length and choice (2, 3, 4, or 5
thread) for fabric type and garment style.
• Sewn with correct length and balanced
tension.
• Thread color appropriate for fabric.
• Stitches do not show on outside of
garment (unless decorative).
• S Smooth and secure. No ladders or puckering.
• S Seam ends secured neatly.
• S Seams pressed in correct direction: Shoulder seams pressed toward back.
• - Vertical seams pressed toward center back.
• - Sleeve seam pressed toward sleeve.
• - Seams in hems turned in opposite directions
to prevent bulkiness.
• - Seams incorporating fullness (yoke, waistline)
are pressed toward smoother side.
• S When seams cross, seams can be turned in
opposite directions to reduce bulkiness.
• S Seam width appropriate for fabric type and
garment style.