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Bundle Babies
© 2023 Bundle Babies Crochet Pattern
Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
Original Artwork by Molly Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any form is illegal. Do
not translate, publish, distribute, or claim any part of this pattern as your own design without my
permission. Please respect the work of artists! Finished products may be sold if not mass produced.
Please credit Megan Stoaks of Mushrooms and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include a link to
the pattern listing or shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Page |2
Supplies
Abbreviations
Hook – Size D, 3.25mm (see Hook Sizing
Explained on pg. 3-4)
Rnd
Round
mr
magic ring
ch
chain
fch
foundation chain
sc
single crochet
hdc
half double crochet
dc
double crochet
tr
treble crochet
dtr
double treble crochet
INC
increase
Stitch markers
DEC
decrease
Tapestry needle
inv DEC
invisible decrease
Craft glue
slst
slip stitch
Fiberfill (big bag)
st
stitch
Poly Pellets (to stuff the belly, adding
weight)
sts
stitches
sk
skip
sp
space
BLO
back loops only
FLO
front loops only
(…) x
repeat the indicated number
of times
{…}
all into the same stitch
Yarn – size 4 (worsted weight)
Skin Tone (240 yds)
I used Red Heart (Buff) for the skin tones
in the pattern photos. Red Heart (café
latte) is another good skin tone for darker
skin.
White and Brown, Dark Brown, or Black
yarn (size 1 or 2) (for eyes/eyebrows)
Safety eyes – 12 or 14mm (for “Open Eyes”
option) (or measure 3sc for diameter)
Old sock or tights that can be cut up
2 - Super strong, thin, Neodymium Earth
magnets (15mm x 2mm) (regular craft
magnets will not be strong enough!) for
doll’s mouth (for attaching pacifier)
(Optional) (can be found on Amazon.com)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
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Level: INTERMEDIATE / ADVANCED
A Note about Yarn Under vs. Yarn Over…
When making dolls or amigurumi, I like to use Yarn Under (x-stitch). For clothing, I prefer to use
Yarn Over (v-stitch). Differences in these techniques can result in slightly different tension,
shaping, and sizing. There are many articles, videos, and pictures on the internet showing these
differences and explaining how to do each type of stitch. I list which technique I use at the
beginning of each item in my patterns, but it is merely a guideline and not a requirement. With
a little practice, it is quite easy to switch back and forth between the two!
Let’s Talk About Yarn…
Baby Doll: If made with the recommended Size 4 yarn, the Bundle Babies will be around 15”
(37cm) in length. The best yarns for shaping are either cotton (I use cotton in smaller sizes), or a
stiff acrylic (like worsted weight Red Heart or similar generics.) Avoid yarns that are too soft,
because soft yarn does not hold the shape. The doll should be stuffed firmly with fiber fill,
especially in the head and cheeks, (giving them a firm round shape). This doll requires a large
amount of fiber fill. The upper portions of the arms and legs can be stuffed more lightly.
As long as you are consistent in yarn sizing between the doll and clothing, you can opt to use
other size yarns. Other size yarn and hooks will result in different sized dolls. (Another favorite
yarn size for me is a Size 1 or 2 cotton yarn, to make a more petite doll). Be sure to consider
that you will need to alter the sizes of other items as well – safety eyes, magnets, buttons,
templates.
Hook Sizing Explained…
When making dolls and amigurumi, try to find the smallest
hook size that keeps the stitches tight enough that when they
are stretched with fiber fill, there will not be holes (where you
can see the fiber fill peeking through). If you find that your
hook is catching and splitting the yarn, it may be too small, and
you need to try a hook size larger. Please feel free to
experiment to find the hook size that works best for YOU!!
Consistency is key – keep track of the hook size that you use to
make your doll, so that all other items are consistently sized to
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
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fit your doll. Keep in mind that larger yarn and hook sizes will result in larger dolls / clothing,
and smaller yarn and hook sizes will result in smaller dolls / clothing.
When making clothing, be sure to carefully read the notes and Gauge Guide to make sure you
are using the correct size hook.
Marking your Place…
It will be very important to mark each round with a stitch marker or a piece of yarn, when you
are working in continuous rounds. Please note that in my photos, I mark the last stitch of each
round, although some crocheters prefer to mark the first stitch. (Either way will work, just keep
this in mind when viewing the photos).
Occasionally throughout this pattern, I will ask you to “re-center” by adding single crochets (to
reach the center of the back of the doll), because everyone has a different tension and amount
of slant (to the stitches) that builds up with each round. You will only need to re-center at
these designated places, and will continue to crochet the exact number of stitches indicated for
each round at all other times. (Some designers will ask that you automatically re-center with
every round, but I prefer that you do NOT do this. Please follow the pattern as written, and I
will ask you to re-center at the places necessary. Generally, these will occur when preparing to
center certain parts (such as the belly button).
Safety Note…
If you are making this doll for a young child, I would highly recommend that you avoid safety
eyes, magnets, and poly pellets, as these can be hazardous. The doll can be made with closed
eyes, the pacifier can be sewn on (or no pacifier), body can be stuffed with fiber fill when being
made for small children.
How this doll is made…
This doll requires very little sewing. You will first make the arms, legs, and ears (or you can
choose to crochet the ears directly to the head if you prefer not to sew them). Then you will
start at the top of the head, working your way down to the body. You can choose to make a
face with eyes open (safety eyes), or eyes closed. As you continue to the body, you will attach
the arms, then the legs, as you go, crocheting them into the round. You close the doll at the
bottom. It is important to firmly stuff the head. You can continue to add fiber fill to the head
and cheeks as you make the neck and upper body. You do NOT need to add extra neck support
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
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to this doll, as long as you have crocheted with firm tension to your stitches. The neck is
crocheted directly from the head to the body, and provides a nice baby-like movement to the
body / head / neck. The arms and legs are crocheted in a ragdoll fashion, and will move loosely
in all directions. It is helpful to weight the inside of the body with poly pellets in a ‘beanbag’
made with stockings, tights, or a sock. The baby will be able to sit with legs spread out
diagonally. There are 2 styles of hair included, but they are optional.
One final note and a Thank You…
Thank you for your patience with the watermarking on this pattern (and all my crochet
patterns). Due to pattern theft and re-selling, I have had to take additional steps to protect my
copyrighted work. (If you see my designs being sold illegally, please let me know via messages
on Etsy, Instagram, or Messenger!) Currently, my patterns are only sold legally in my shops on
Etsy and Ravelry.
Crochet patterns for additional clothing and accessories for the
Bundle Babies will become available in the future as they are
designed. Follow the Mushrooms and Meadows Etsy shop for
updates! Thank you for purchasing this pattern from Mushrooms
and Meadows, which supports me as an artist, and makes it
possible for me to keep designing fun and cute crochet patterns!!
Megan J Stoaks
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Page |6
Stitch Guide:
Treble crochet (tr)
Yarn over twice, insert hook into next stitch, yarn under
and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first 2 loops
on hook, yarn over and pull through next 2 loops on hook,
yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Double Treble crochet (dtr)
Yarn over three times, insert hook into next stitch, yarn
under and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through first
2 loops on hook, yarn over and pull through next 2 loops
on hook, yarn over and pull through next 2 loops on
hook, yarn over and pull through last 2 loops on hook.
Note: When making the treble and double
treble stitches in this pattern (specifically on
the toes), you will be working into the next
stitch (not leaving chains as shown in these
diagrams), tacking it down with a slipstitch
in the same stitch, which causes the long
stitch to bend over in half, forming each toe.
Note: When working into a chain, I will
specify when I work into the ‘back bumps.’
If I do not specify, that means that I work
into the top loop on the chain.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Right Arm
Right Arm*
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for
amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Page |7
*2dc-bobble: *yarn over, insert hook
into st (as if making a dc), yarn under
and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull
through first 2 loops on hook, repeat
from * one more time, yarn over and
pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Note: when you make the next sc, the
bobble will form a little cup.
Note: In the following steps forming the fingers, the dc and dc bobbles will form little “cups” –
the bobble will push out to the back (or wrong) side. See photo tutorial on pages 13-14 for
additional step-by-step photos.
Leaving a long starting tail, Ch 13
(Creating foundation chain, and pointer finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble, 2sc, 1slst
2) (1slst on next back bump*) x2
Note: The back bump is the loop on the back of the chain (See pg. 13)
Ch 7 (creating middle finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble, 3sc, 1slst
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch) x2
Ch 6 (creating ring finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble, 2sc, 1slst
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch) x2
Ch 4 (creating pinky finger)
1) Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 1dc, 1sc, 1slst
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch), ch1
Do not cut yarn.
*Left Arm for left-handed crocheters
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Right Arm
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Now working in continuous rounds:
Rnd 1: Rotate work, FLO - 6sc across of foundation chain (or palm side of hand), (Photos 1, 2)
then turn to form a round by working in exposed loops left on foundation chain (from previous
6sc). 6sc across foundation chain (back side of hand) (Photos 3-5), place marker
(12)
Photo 1
Photo 2
Photo 4
Photo 3
Photo 5
Photo 6
Photo 7
Rnd 2: (Keep long starting tail to the inside of the hand)
INC, 5sc, INC, 5sc (Photo 6)
(14)
Rnd 3: 14sc (Photo 7)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
(14)
Right Arm
Page |9
Rnd 4: 7sc, (Thumb: ch5, Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble*, 1sc, 1slst), 7sc (see
below)
(14)**
*Bobble will again form a little cup (push to the wrong side)
**Thumb not included in stitch count
Rnd 5: 7sc, sk thumb, 7sc (Photo 8)
(14)
Rnd 6: inv DEC, 3sc, inv DEC x2, 5sc
(11)
Rnd 7: INC, 4sc, INC, 5sc
(13)
Photo 8
Use starting tail to sew 4 fingers, and then thumb, to palm of
hand (See photo tutorial below.)
1)
Thread tapestry needle
with the long starting tail,
and bring through side of
hand (a couple stitches
below pinky finger).
2)
Bring needle through the
curled end of all 4 finger tips,
starting with pinky and
working to the pointer finger.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
3)
Insert needle into side of
hand (below pointer finger)
and bring out near center
of palm.
Right Arm
4)
Pulling the yarn, pull in the
4 fingers to the palm. Bring
needle through the curled
tip of the thumb.
5)
P a g e | 10
6)
Insert needle about 1 stitch
from where the yarn came
out, bringing back out the
open wrist, to tack down
the thumb.
When you are satisfied with
the placement of the
fingers / thumb forming a
tiny baby fist, then you can
sew in the yarn end.
Note: The baby’s hand is designed to look like a fist. The
fingers and thumb are not fully formed, (because that would
be too bulky), and MUST be tacked down into the fist shape in
order to look like a baby’s hand. Please do not leave fingers
and thumb loose, because they will not look like a complete
hand!
Lightly stuff hand.
Rnd 8: 1sc, INC, 5sc, INC, 5sc
(15)
Rnd 9-13: 15sc (5 rounds) (Photo 9)
(15)
Rnd 14: 4sc, BLO-5sc, 6sc (Photo 10)
(15)
Rnd 15: 3sc, BLO-1sc, 5sc, BLO-1sc, 5sc
(15)
Rnd 16: 2sc, BLO-1sc, 7sc, BLO-1sc, 4sc
(15)
Please Note where these exposed front loops are (from the
BLO sts in the previous 3 rounds.)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 9
Photo 10
Right Arm
Rnd 17: 2sc, 1sc into the exposed front loop (1 row down),
1sc into exposed front loop (2 rows down), 5sc into exposed
front loops (3 rows down), 1sc into exposed front loop (2
rows down), 1sc into exposed front loop (1 row down), 4sc
(see Photos).
(15)
P a g e | 11
1
2
3
Note: There will be 9sc that form the inside of the elbow (or
the bend in the arm), placement indicated by the numbers in
the photos.
2
43
54
9
3
8
These stitches
will be hidden
inside the arm!
Rnd 18: 15sc (Photo 11)
(15)
Photo 11
Stuff lower arm.
Rnd 19: inv DEC, 4sc, INC, 1sc, INC, 2sc, inv DEC, 2sc
(15)
Rnd 20: 2sc, INC, 8sc, INC, 3sc
(17)
Rnd 21-23: 17sc (3 rounds) (Photo 12)
(17)
Rnd 24: 2sc, inv DEC, 6sc, inv DEC, 5sc
(15)
Rnd 25: 1sc, inv DEC, 5sc, inv DEC, 5sc
(13)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 12
7
6
Right Arm
Photo 13
P a g e | 12
Photo 14
Rnd 26: inv DEC, 4sc, inv DEC, 5sc (Photo 13)
(11)
Rnd 27: 3sc (end of round) (Photo 14)
Stuff upper arm lightly (shoulder should be somewhat
flat). Squeeze upper arm flat.
Insert hook into next st, and through previous st, (not
including current stitch) to make first sc through both
layers, and continue for a total of 5sc through both layers,
sewing upper arm closed. Ch1, cut yarn leaving a short
tail.
See photos above for angle of closed upper arm to hand. Accuracy of this angle is important
when arm is attached to body in order for the anatomy to look correct!
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Right Arm
P a g e | 13
Extra Photo Tutorial: Right hand (4 fingers)
2)
1)
3)
Begin with Chain 13. 2dc-bobble* into 3rd ch from hook.
*see box on page 7
5)
4)
(here are the next
two back bumps)
6)
9)
Starting 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble
10)
(1slst in next back bump) x2
Ch 7
(1slst into next back bump) x2
8)
7)
2sc, 1slst
11)
3sc, 1slst (arrows show
back bumps for next step)
12)
Ch 6
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Starting 3rd ch from hook,
2dc-bobble
Right Arm
13)
2sc, 1slst (arrows show the
back bumps for the next step)
16)
Starting in 2nd ch from
hook, 1dc
14)
15)
(1slst in next back bump) x2
17)
1sc, 1slst (arrow shows the last
back bump for the next step)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 14
Ch 4
18)
1slst in next (last) back
bump
Left Arm
Left Arm*
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for
amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
P a g e | 15
*2dc-bobble: *yarn over, insert hook
into st (as if making a dc), yarn under
and pull up a loop, yarn over and pull
through first 2 loops on hook, repeat
from * one more time, yarn over and
pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Note: when you make the next sc, the
bobble will form a little cup.
Note: In the following steps forming the fingers, the dc and dc bobbles will form little “cups” –
the bobble will push out to the back (or wrong) side. See photo tutorial on pages 22-23 for
additional step-by-step photos.
Leaving a long starting tail, Ch11
(creating foundation chain, and pinky finger)
1) Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, 1dc, 1sc, 1slst,
2) (1slst on next back bump) x2
Ch 6 (creating ring finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble*, 2sc, 1slst,
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch) x2
Ch 7 (creating middle finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble*, 3sc, 1slst,
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch) x2
Ch 6 (creating pointer finger)
1) Starting in the 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble*, 2sc, 1slst,
2) (1slst on next back bump on fch), ch1
Do not cut yarn.
*Right Arm for left-handed crocheters
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Arm
P a g e | 16
Now working in continuous rounds:
Rnd 1: Rotate work, FLO - 6sc across of foundation chain (or palm side of hand), (Photos 15-17)
then turn to form a round by working in exposed loops left on foundation chain (from previous
6sc). 6sc across foundation chain (back side of hand) (Photos 18-20), place marker
(12)
Photo 15
Photo 16
Photo 17
Photo 18
Photo 19
Photo 20
Rnd 2: (Keep long starting tail to the inside of the
hand) INC, 5sc, INC, 5sc (Photo 21)
(14)
Rnd 3: 14sc (Photo 22)
Photo 21
(14)
Photo 22
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Arm
P a g e | 17
Rnd 4: 1sc, (Thumb: Ch5, 3rd ch from hook, 2dc-bobble*, 1sc, 1slst), 13sc (See below)
(14)**
*Bobble will again form a little cup (push to the wrong side)
**Thumb not included in stitch count
Rnd 5: 1sc, sk thumb (Photo 23), 13sc
(14)
Rnd 6: inv DEC, 3sc, inv DEC x2, 5sc (Photo 24)
(11)
Rnd 7: INC, 4sc, INC, 5sc
(13)
Photo 23
Photo 24
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Arm
P a g e | 18
Use long starting tail to sew 4 fingers, and then thumb, to palm of hand (See photo tutorial
below).
2)
1)
Bring needle through side of
hand (a couple stitches below
pinky finger).
Thread tapestry needle
with the long starting tail.
4)
5)
Insert needle into side of hand
(below pointer finger) and bring
out near center of palm.
Gently tug yarn to pull
finger tips to palm.
3)
Bring needle through the
curled end of all 4 finger
tips, starting with pinky and
working to the pointer
finger.
6)
Bring needle through the
curled tip of the thumb.
7)
Insert needle about 1 stitch from where the
yarn came out, bringing back out the open
wrist, to tack down the thumb.
8)
When you are satisfied with the placement of
the fingers / thumb forming a tiny baby fist,
then you can sew in the yarn end.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Arm
P a g e | 19
Lightly stuff hand.
Rnd 8: 1sc, INC, 5sc, INC, 5sc
(15)
Rnd 9-13: 15sc (5 rounds) (Photo 25)
(15)
Rnd 14: 4sc, BLO-5sc, 6sc (Photo 26)
(15)
Rnd 15: 3sc, BLO-1sc, 5sc, BLO-1sc, 5sc
(15)
Rnd 16: 2sc, BLO-1sc, 7sc, BLO-1sc, 4sc
(15)
Photo 25
Photo 26
Please Note where these exposed front loops are (from the BLO
sts in the previous 3 rounds.)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Arm
P a g e | 20
Rnd 17: 2sc, 1sc into the exposed front loop (1 row down), 1sc into exposed front loop (2 rows
down), 5sc into exposed front loops (3 rows down), 1sc into exposed front loop (2 rows down),
1sc into exposed front loop (1 row down), 4sc (see Photos below).
(15)
1
1
2
43
9 8
7
5
6
1
2
2
4 34
54
9
8
Note: There will be 9sc
that form the inside of the
elbow (or the bend in the
arm), placement indicated
by the numbers in the
photos.
7
Rnd 18: 15sc
(15)
Stuff lower arm.
Rnd 19: inv DEC, 4sc, INC, 1sc, INC, 2sc, inv DEC, 2sc
(15)
Rnd 20: 2sc, INC, 8sc, INC, 3sc (Photo 27)
(17)
Rnd 21-23: 17sc (3 rounds)
(17)
Rnd 24: 6sc, inv DEC, 6sc, inv DEC, 1sc
(15)
Rnd 25: 5sc, inv DEC, 5sc, inv DEC, 1sc
(13)
Rnd 26: 4sc, inv DEC, 4sc, inv DEC, 1sc
(11)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
3
Photo 27
Left Arm
P a g e | 21
Rnd 27: 4sc (end of round) (Photo 28)
Stuff upper arm lightly (shoulder should be somewhat flat). Squeeze upper arm flat.
Insert hook into next st, and through previous st, (not including current stitch) to make first sc
through both layers (Photo 29), and continue for a total of 5sc through both layers, sewing
upper arm closed. Ch1, cut yarn leaving a short tail.)
Photo 28
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 29
Left Arm
P a g e | 22
Extra Photo Tutorial: Left hand (4 fingers)
1)
2)
3)
Begin with Chain 11. 1dc
into 2nd ch from hook,
1sc, 1slst
Now work into back bumps
on the foundation chain.
(1slst in next back bump) x2
4)
5)
Ch 7
7)
6)
Starting in 3rd ch from hook,
2dc-bobble*
*See box on Pg. 15
9)
8)
(1slst in next back bump on
foundation chain) x2
Ch 7
11)
10)
3sc, 1slst
2sc, 1slst
(1slst in next back bump
on foundation chain) x2
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Starting in 3rd ch from
hook, 2dc-bobble
12)
Ch 6
Right Leg
13)
14)
Starting in 3rd ch from hook,
2dc-bobble
P a g e | 23
15)
1slst on next back
bump on fch, ch1
2sc, 1slst
Right Leg*
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Ch 6
Rnd 1: Starting 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 3sc in next ch (across
end of row of chains), (working on opposite side) 3sc, INC
(Photo 30)
(12)
Rnd 2: INC, BLO-3sc, INC x3, 3sc, INC x2 (Photo 31)
(18)
Rnd 3: 1sc, INC, 3sc (in front loops on Rnd 1, from BLO sts
in Rnd 2), 1sc, INC x2, 2sc, INC, 4sc, INC, 1sc, INC (Photos
32, 33)
(24)
Photo 30
Side view
Photo 31
Photo 32
*Left Leg for left-handed crocheters
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 33
Right Leg
Note: The next round is the “toe” round – you will be
making the big toe (bobble), 3 middle toes, and the
baby toe.
Rnd 4: 8sc, *tr-bobble, 1sc (tacks down the bobble),
{1dtr, 1slst} x3, {1tr, 1slst}, 10sc (See Photos below)(28)
Note: {…} means all into the same stitch
*tr-bobble: *yarn over twice, insert
Photo 34
hook into st (as if making a tr), yarn
under and pull up a loop, yarn over
and pull through first 2 loops on hook,
yarn over and pull through next 2
loops on hook, repeat from * three
more times, yarn over and pull
through all 5 loops on hook.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
8)
9)
Bend bobble back
when making next sc
7)
Note how the Double Treble
crochet will bend back
10)
Making the slst in the same stitch
11)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 24
12)
Right Leg
P a g e | 25
14)
13)
Rnd 5: inv DEC, 3sc, inv DEC, 2sc, inv DEC x5 (Photo 34), 9sc
(21)
Rnd 6: (2sc, inv DEC) x4, 5sc
(17)
Rnd 7: 5sc, inv DEC, 10sc (Photo 35)
(16)
Rnd 8: 16sc
(16)
Rnd 9: 1sc, INC, 9sc, inv DEC, 3sc (Photo 36)
(16)
Rnd 10: 16sc
(16)
Rnd 11: 1sc, INC, 8sc, inv DEC, 4sc (Photo 37)
(16)
Photo 34
Photo 35
Note: The ankle will have a slight bend in as shown in Photo
37.
Rnd 12: (3sc, INC) x4
(20)
Rnd 13-14: 20sc (2 rounds) (Photo 38)
(20)
Photo 36
Photo 37
Photo 38
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Right Leg
Rnd 15: (4sc, INC) x4
(24)
Rnd 16-19: 24sc (4 rounds)
(24)
Rnd 20: 22sc, inv DEC
(23)
P a g e | 26
Photo 39
Rnd 21: inv DEC x2, 8sc, INC x3, 8sc (Photo 39) (24)
Stuff foot and lower leg with fiber fill.
Rnd 22: BLO-3sc, 20sc, BLO-1sc
(24)
Rnd 23: 3sc, BLO-1sc, 18sc, BLO-1sc, 1sc
(24)
Rnd 24: 4sc, BLO-1sc, 15sc, BLO-2sc, 2sc
(24)
Rnd 25: 5sc, BLO-2sc, 5sc, inv DEC, 6sc, 2sc (in front
loops – 1 round below), 1sc (in front loop – 2 rounds
below), 1sc (in front loop – 3 rounds below)
(23)
Rnd 26: 3sc (in front loops – 4 rounds below), 1sc (in
front loop – 3 rounds below), 1sc (in front loop – 2
rounds below), 2sc (in front loops – 1 round below),
16sc
(23)
Remaining 11 front loops
that you will work into
These stitches will remain
hidden inside the leg
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Right Leg
Rnd 27: INC, 1sc, INC, (3sc, INC) x5 (Photo 40)
(30)
Rnd 28-31: 30sc (4 rounds) (Photo 41)
(30)
Rnd 32: (4sc, inv DEC) x5
(25)
Rnd 33: 25sc
(25)
Rnd 34: (3sc, inv DEC) x5
(20)
Rnd 35: 20sc (Photo 42)
(20)
Rnd 36: 8sc (round ends here) (Photo 43)
Photo 41
Stuff upper leg with fiber fill. Squeeze opening flat, 10sc
across opening to close. Ch1, cut yarn and pull through.
(See Photos below).
Photo 42
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 40
Photo 43
P a g e | 27
Left Leg
P a g e | 28
Left Leg*
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Ch 6
Rnd 1: Starting 2nd ch from hook, 4sc, 3sc in next ch (across
end of row of chains), 3sc, INC (Photo 44)
(12)
Rnd 2: INC, 3sc, INC x3, BLO-3sc, INC x2
Photo 44
(18)
Rnd 3: 1sc, INC, 4sc, INC, 2sc, INC x2, 3sc (in front loops on Rnd
1, from BLO sts in Rnd 2), (1sc, INC) x2 (See Photos below) (24)
Note: The next round is the “toe” round – you will be
making the baby toe, 3 middle toes, and the big toe
(bobble).
Rnd 4: 8sc, {1tr, 1slst}, {1dtr, 1slst} x3, tr bobble, 1sc
(tacks down the bobble), 10sc (See photos below and
next page)
(28)
*Right Leg for left-handed crocheters
1)
2)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
*tr-bobble: *yarn over twice, insert
hook into st (as if making a tr), yarn
under and pull up a loop, yarn over
and pull through first 2 loops on hook,
yarn over and pull through next 2
loops on hook, repeat from * three
more times, yarn over and pull
through all 5 loops on hook.
3)
Left Leg
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
10)
11)
12)
13)
14)
15)
Rnd 5: 8sc, inv DEC x5, 2sc, inv DEC, 3sc, inv DEC, 1sc (See Photos below).
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 29
(21)
Left Leg
Rnd 6: inv DEC, 6sc, (inv DEC, 2sc) x3, 1sc
(17)
Rnd 7: 9sc, inv DEC, 6sc
(16)
Rnd 8: 16sc (Photo 45)
(16)
Rnd 9: 2sc, inv DEC, 9sc, INC, 2sc
(16)
Rnd 10: 16sc
(16)
Rnd 11: 2sc, inv DEC, 8sc, INC, 3sc
(16)
Rnd 12: (3sc, INC) x4 (Photo 46)
(20)
P a g e | 30
Photo 45
Photo 46
Note: The ankle will have a slight bend in as shown in Photo
46.
Rnd 13-14: 20sc (2 rounds)
(20)
Rnd 15: (4sc, INC) x4
(24)
Rnd 16-19: 24sc (4 rounds) (Photo 47)
(24)
Rnd 20: 20sc, inv DEC x2
(22)
Photo 47
Rnd 21: inv DEC, 8sc, INC x3, 7sc, BLO-2sc (Photo 48) (24)
Stuff foot and lower leg with fiber fill.
Rnd 22: BLO-1sc, 20sc, BLO-1sc, 2sc
Photo 48
(24)
Rnd 23: 1sc, BLO-1sc, 18sc, BLO-1sc, 3sc
(24)
Rnd 24: 2sc, BLO-1sc, 15sc, BLO-2sc, 4sc
(24)
Rnd 25: 3sc, BLO-2sc, 6sc, inv DEC, 5sc, 2sc (in front loops –
1 round below), 1sc (in front loop - 2 rounds below), 1sc (in
front loop – 3 rounds below), 2sc (in front loops – 4 rounds
below)
(23)
Rnd 26: 1sc (in front loop – 4 rounds below), 1sc (in front
loop – 3 rounds below), 1sc (in front loop – 2 rounds below),
2sc (in front loops – 1 round below), 16sc, INC, 1sc
(24)
(See Photos on next page).
After the BLO sts in Rnd 25, the
11 exposed front loops remaining
will be as shown
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Left Leg
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
Rnd 27: (INC, 3sc) x6 (Photo 49)
(30)
Rnd 28-31: 30sc (4 rounds) (Photo 50)
(30)
Rnd 32: (4sc, inv DEC) x5
(25)
Rnd 33: 25sc
(25)
Rnd 34: (3sc, inv DEC) x5
(20)
Rnd 35: 20sc (Photo 51)
(20)
Photo 49
Photo 50
Rnd 36: 8sc (round ends here)
Stuff upper leg with fiber fill. Squeeze opening flat, 10sc
across opening to close. Ch1, cut yarn and pull through.
(Photos 52, 53)
Photo 53
Photo 51
Photo 52
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 31
P a g e | 32
Ears (sew-on version*)
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Note: *You may optionally crochet the ears directly onto the
head. In this case, continue on to the head/body. Please see
pg. 41.
Rnd 1: 5sc in mr, ch1, turn
Rnd 2: (hdc-INC) x2, sc-INC, (hdc-INC) x2
(5)
(10)
Set aside until after Rnd 34 of the Head.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 33
Head / Body
Hook: 3.25mm (or your preferred hook for amigurumi with size 4 yarn)
Yarn Color: Skin tone
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Rnd 1: 8sc in mr
(8)
Rnd 2: INC x8
(16)
Rnd 3: (1sc, INC) x8
(24)
Rnd 4: (3sc, INC) x6
(30)
Rnd 5: 2sc, INC, (4sc, INC) x5, 2sc
(36)
Rnd 6: (5sc, INC) x6 (Photo 54)
(42)
Rnd 7: 3sc, INC, (6sc, INC) x5, 3sc
(48)
Rnd 8: (7sc, INC) x6
(54)
Rnd 9: 54sc
(54)
Rnd 10: 4sc, INC, (8sc, INC) x5, 4sc (Photo 55)
(60)
Rnd 11: 60sc
(60)
Rnd 12: (9sc, INC) x6
(66)
Rnd 13-20: 66sc (8 rounds) (Photo 56)
(66)
Photo 54
Photo 55
Photo 56
Rnd 21: 12sc, (inv DEC, 2sc) x3, 20sc, (inv DEC, 2sc) x3, 10sc
(60)
Rnd 22: 60sc*
(60)
Rnd 23: 3sc, inv DEC, 50sc, inv DEC, 3sc
(58)
Photo 57
Rnd 24: 18sc, INC x8, 3sc, {4hdc} (in one stitch), 3sc, INC x8,
17sc
(77)
Note: The 4hdc in one stitch will form the nose.
Rnd 25: 16sc, inv DEC, 16sc, inv DEC x5, 16sc, inv DEC, 15sc
(Photo 57)
(70)
*On Rnd 22, if you are planning to use safety eyes and would prefer holes to place them in, you
can do the following: 23sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 12sc, ch1, sk 1 st, 23sc (60)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 34
Rnd 26: 30sc, inv DEC x5, 30sc
(65)
Rnd 27: 65sc
(65)
Insert safety eyes if making “Eyes Open” option. Find the center of the face by locating the stitch which
had 4 hdc worked into it to form the nose. Count out 6 stitches (on the round just above the center
point), and move up one row to place the safety eye. (Or place in holes if you included them on Rnd 22.)
Do the same for both eyes. If making “Eyes Closed” option, continue to Rnd 28.
6 sts from center,
then up one st to
place the safety eyes
CENTER: Nose (stitch with 4 hdc)
Rnd 28: 63sc, inv DEC
(64)
Rnd 29: 3sc, inv DEC, (6sc, inv DEC) x7, 3sc
(56)
Rnd 30: (5sc, inv DEC) x8
(48)
Rnd 31: 2sc, inv DEC, (4sc, inv DEC) x7, 2sc
(40)
If you are planning to use magnets with the pacifier, you will
now add 2 super strong Earth magnets inside the head, behind
the mouth area. You can cut a small piece of felt or fabric large
enough to cover the stacked magnets. (If you prefer, you can
crochet ‘12dc in mr’ instead of a piece of felt). Glue around the
outside edges (or sew, if you do not like to use glue, grabbing
only the inside parts of the yarn and not coming all the way
through to the outside of the face), and attach the magnet to
the inside surface of the face behind the mouth area. Allow
time for the craft glue to dry.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 35
Start to stuff head firmly with fiber fill. It will take a large amount of fiber fill to stuff the head as
firmly as necessary. Do not under-stuff! The head will have a very round shape, as well as the
cheeks. You can continue to add fiber fill over the next several rounds, especially in the cheeks,
stretching the stitches.
Rnd 32: (3sc, inv DEC) x8
(32)
Rnd 33: (2sc, inv DEC) x8
(24)
Rnd 34: (1sc, inv DEC) x8
(16)
Rnd 35-36: (Neck) 16sc (2 rounds)
(16)
Rnd 37: INC x16
(32)
See Photo Tutorial for Open Eyes option (pg. 36,
37) and Closed Eyes option (pg. 38-40), and
embroider the eyes and eyebrows, and make the
face shaping.
Sew on (or crochet on) Ears between Rnds 24-27,
about 7-8 sts from safety eye. See instructions for
crocheting the ears to the head on pg. 41.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 36
“Open Eyes” Option - embroidery
Find and mark these spots on the eye area
Placing the white of the eye
If using size 1 yarn, use 2 strands above the eye, and one strand for the eyelashes
Making the eyebrow with one strand
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 37
4 sts between center
(top of nose) and pink pins
Face Shaping: Using a strand (or 2, for more strength) of skin colored yarn, insert tapestry
needle into ‘1’ (just above the neck), come out at ‘2’. Bring needle back into ‘3’, (one stitch
above), and come out at ‘4’. Lastly, insert into ‘5’ (one stitch below), and come out at ‘6’ (just
above the neck.)
Look at the difference!
Then pull firmly on the yarn ends to create indents on either side of the nose
Knot the ends firmly and
hide them in the doll
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 38
“Closed Eyes” Option - embroidery
4 sts between center (top of nose) and
white pins, 4 st width for closed eyelids
Find and mark these spots
on the eye area
From blue pin to pink pin, make several stitches overlapping (about 5)
Move up one stitch (purple and white pins), and make several
more stitches overlapping (about 5)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 39
After finishing both eyelids, use size 1 yarn in brown or dark
brown to make eyeliner, eyelashes, and eyebrows.
Eyeliner and eyelashes
Eyebrows
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 40
Face Shaping: Using a strand (or 2,
for more strength) of skin colored
yarn, insert tapestry needle into ‘1’
(just above the neck), come out at
‘2’. Bring needle back into ‘3’, (one
stitch above), and come out at ‘4’.
Lastly, insert into ‘5’ (one stitch
below), and come out at ‘6’ (just
above the neck.)
4 sts between center
(top of nose) and gold pins
After Shaping
Before Shaping
Tie a tight knot,
and hide the ends
inside the doll
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 41
Crocheting the Ears onto the Head
Insert hook as shown, above
Round 24, and coming out
below round 25
You will now work Row 1 into
the yarn you pulled across
Yarn over and pull yarn
across through loop, then
make 1 chain
Pull up a loop
Row 1: 5sc, ch1, turn
(5)
Row 2: (hdc-INC) x2, sc-INC,
(hdc-INC) x2 (10)
Tug ends tightly to make sure ear is attached firmly. Thread each end in a tapestry
needle and sew down the ends of the ears. So the ear can lay flat, sew in place in the
center of the ear. A flat lying ear will look more realistic for your baby!
For the second ear, insert hook as shown at left, and crochet this
ear in the same way. The first row will always face towards the
back of the head, and Row 2 will face towards the front.
Note: If you prefer, you can crochet the Ears separately as shown
on pg. 32, and sew to head now.
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 42
Rnd 38-39: 32sc (2 rounds)
(32)
Re-center: add 3-6 sc as needed to reach the center of the back, and move marker (Photos 58,
59)
Find Center
Move marker
Photo 59
Photo 58
Rnd 40: 5sc, 5sc (through right arm and body), 12sc, 5sc (through left arm and body), 5sc
Rnd 41: 32sc
(32)
Rnd 42: 12sc, INC*, 6sc, INC*, 12sc
(34)
(32)
Note: *These 2 increases will be evenly spaced on the chest.
Rnd 43-44: 34sc (2 rounds)
(34)
Photo 60
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 43
Rnd 45: 6sc, (INC, 3sc) x7
(41)
Rnd 46: 41sc (Photo 60)
(41)
Rnd 47: 6sc, (INC, 4sc) x7 (Photo 61)
(48)
Rnd 48-53: 48sc (6 rounds) (Photos 62, 63)
(48)
Re-center: add 2-3 sc as needed to reach the center of the back, and move marker
Photo 61
Photo 62
Photo 63
Rnd 54: (1sc, INC) x3, 17sc, hdc-INC*, 17sc, (INC, 1sc) x3,
1sc (Photo 64)
(55)
Photo 64
Note: “hdc-INC” is 2hdc in one stitch, and this is the top of
the belly button.
Rnd 55: 26sc, DEC*, 27sc (Photo 65)
(54)
Note: This is a regular decrease (not invisible) – pull up a
loop in each of the next 2 sts, yarn over and pull through all
3 loops on hook. (It should be directly below the hdc-INC
from the previous round, and forms the bottom of the belly
button.)
Rnd 56: 54sc
Photo 65
(54)
Rnd 57: 14sc, 10sc (through right leg and body), 7sc, 10sc
(through left leg and body), 13sc (See Photos below and on
next page).
(54)
1)
2)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
3)
P a g e | 44
4)
5)
6)
Bellybutton: Using a tapestry needle threaded
with the skin-colored yarn, and coming from inside
the belly, make 3-4 small stitches around the belly
button. Pull the yarn from inside the belly to
accentuate (gather) the belly button, pushing the
belly button out (from the inside) at the same
time. Knot the ends inside the body.
Rnd 58-59: 54sc (2 rounds)
(54)
Rnd 60: (7sc, inv DEC) x6 (Photo 66)
(48)
Stuff the neck and upper chest with fiber fill.
Strengthening the neck area is unnecessary if you have
crocheted with tension, because the head should have
some movement independently of the body, and is
designed to be a bit floppy (with movement similar to a
baby!)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 66
P a g e | 45
Using a thin sock, tights, or pantyhose, make a beanbag using plastic pellets to fill the belly
cavity, and add weight to the body of the doll. Add fiber fill around the beanbag if needed to fill
the body cavity as you close it up over the next several rounds.
1)
2)
3)
4)
5)
6)
7)
8)
9)
Rnd 61: (4sc, inv DEC) x8
(40)
Rnd 62: (3sc, inv DEC) x8
(32)
Rnd 63: (2sc, inv DEC) x8
(24)
Rnd 64: (1sc, inv DEC) x8
(16)
Rnd 65: inv DEC x8
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
(8)
P a g e | 46
Cut yarn leaving a long tail. Close hole (by whipstitching around through the front loops, and
pulling closed). Using a running stitch, create the line on the bottom by working from the
closed hole up to the middle of lower back. Pull the yarn to gather it, and bring yarn back out
the bottom and sew in end securely.
2)
1)
3)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
4)
P a g e | 47
Hair (optional)
Hook: 3.25mm (or the hook used to make your doll)
Yarn Color: Brown (or preferred hair color)
Preferred Method: Yarn Under (x-stitch)
Straight Hair
Rnd 1: 7sc in mr (forming base), slst into first sc to close magic
ring (Photo 67)
(7)
Rnd 2: Making 4 strands:
Strand 1 - (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook, 7slst, FLO - slst in next
st on base), (Photos 68, 69, 70)
Photo 67
Strand 2, 3 - (ch11, starting 2nd ch from hook, 10slst, FLO – slst in
next st on base) x2,
Strand 4 - (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook, 7slst, FLO – slst in next
st on base), 3sc (Photos 71, 72)
Photo 68
Note: Pull starting tail through center of mr so that it is on the
front side, as the wrong (back) side will be the part which faces
out.
Rnd 3: Turn hair piece over (Photo 73), and now working into the
4 back loops left from working in FLO on the previous round (Photo
74), making 3 strands that fall between the 4 strands on the
previous round, and wrong side facing the same as previous
strands:
Strand 1, 2, 3 - 1slst in next loop, (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook,
7slst, slst in next loop) x3 (Photos 75, 76, 77)
Photo 69
Photo 70
Photo 71
Photo 72
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Photo 73
P a g e | 48
Photo 74
Photo 76
Photo 75
Photo 77
4 strands from Rnd 2
(bottom layer)
3 strands from Rnd 3
(top layer)
Finish off leaving a tail for sewing to head, wrong side up (or glue with craft glue.)
4 stitches from center of
the top of head
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 49
Curly Hair
Rnd 1: 7sc in mr (forming base), slst into first sc to close magic
ring (Photo 78)
(7)
Rnd 2: Making 4 strands:
Strand 1 - (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook, 7sc, FLO - slst in next
st on base), (Photo 79)
Strand 2, 3 - (ch11, starting 2nd ch from hook, 10sc, FLO – slst in
next st on base) x2,
Photo 78
Photo 79
Strand 4 - (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook, 7sc, FLO – slst in next
st on base), 3sc (Photos 80, 81)
Note: Pull starting tail through center of mr so that it is on the
front side, as the wrong (back) side will be the part which faces
out.
Rnd 3: Turn hair piece over, and now working into the 4 back
loops left from working in FLO on the previous round (Photo
82), making 3 strands that fall between the 4 strands on the
previous round, and wrong side facing the same as previous
strands:
Photo 80
Strand 1, 2, 3 - 1slst in next loop, (ch8, starting 2nd ch from hook, 7sc, slst in next loop) x3
(Photos 83, 84)
Photo 82
Photo 83
Photo 81
Photo 84
4 strands from Rnd 2
(bottom layer)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
3 strands from Rnd 3
(top layer)
P a g e | 50
Finish off leaving a tail for sewing to head, wrong side up (or glue with craft glue.)
4 stitches from center of
the top of head
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 51
Blushing your Baby Doll
You can blush your doll with make-up, chalk pastels, or fabric paint. I use fabric paint with a
makeup brush. The key is to dab most of the paint off the brush onto a paper towel so that the
brush is very dry. I do not recommend this technique to beginners, and this technique requires
practice before applying to a doll, as it is permanent. (Once you get the hang of it, it is fairly
easy though!) Makeup is very forgiving and looks great, but will wear away fairly quickly and
need to be reapplied.
Feet
Toes
Knees
Bellybutton
Elbows
Wrists
Ears
Bottom
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
Nose
P a g e | 52
Cheeks
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 53
Examples of the Bundle Babies made by my
Tester Team:
Here are some examples of work done by my tester team! I’m sharing these with you so that
you can see the results from different crocheters, as everyone has slightly different tension and
experience that they bring to the design. One crochet pattern can result in many different
beautiful babies!! (Click to link to their Instagram accounts!)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 54
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 55
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.
P a g e | 56
© 2023 Bundle Babies Crochet Pattern
Original Design by Megan Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
Original Artwork by Molly Stoaks, Mushrooms and Meadows
This pattern is for personal use only. Posting, selling, or sharing of this pattern in any form is illegal. Do
not translate, publish, distribute, or claim any part of this pattern as your own design without my
permission. Please respect the work of artists! Finished products may be sold if not mass produced.
Please credit Megan Stoaks of Mushrooms and Meadows as the designer and if possible, include a link to
the pattern listing or shop. Please use your own photo when selling or presenting your product.
Follow @mushroomsandmeadows on social media:
(Click Icons for Links!)
Copyright © 2023 Megan Stoaks. All rights reserved.