The two recipes in the upper part of the paper are “Finnish refreshment pill” and “Black Tea”
“Honeywine (Mead)
Mead= An alcohol beverage made from honey, referred in the following as wine.
SPECIFICALLY NOTABLE WHEN MAKING MEAD-WINE
1.
⁠It is important to use soft ware – clean rain water or alternatively distilled water. Water
from the faucet, even if soft, may not be suitable incase of rust particles in the water.
2.
⁠The quality of the honey determines the wines taste and smell. Tame honeys, such as
clover and linden honeys are most suitable. Strong honeys - except heather – should never be
used: the result may be a terrible disappointment. The misconception, that any strong or a bad
quality honey can isn’t suitable for any other purpose, is suitable for wine, is most wrong and
has resulted in many failures in the creation of wine. Only the best tasting honey results in the
finest wine.
3.
⁠The yeast used determines largely the character of the wine. Real grapeyeast (preculture grape wine yeast) gives the best results. These exist in many different strains, all of
which give good results in wine. We use Maury-wine yest, but Madeira- or Malaga-wine yeasts
give most satisfying results. Up until now, brewery yeast or bread yeast have been generally
recommended in making wine. The first gives the wine, as one might guess, a particular taste of
ale. The latter gives a specific flavour that is to be expected of this kind of fermenting substance.
4.
⁠The honey and water mixture must be sterilized, as must the vessel or barrel where the
fermentation takes place. Of utmost importance is, that after sterilization any kind of
contamination cannot be allowed to occur.
5.
⁠No chemicals should be added in the liquid, except in special cases when a very dry
wine is wanted. Chemicals – such as cleansed winestone or ammonium phosphate, that are
recommended in most recipes – should absolutely be discarded. These substances do
accelerate the fermentation, but ruin the fine taste and smell, that is to be expected in a fine
wine.
6.
⁠Temperature must be kept steady for the whole fermentation time, so not too high and
not too low. For the fermentation substances of my recommendation – Maury, Madeira and Port
– the most suitable is 18 – 21 °C.
7.
⁠The fermentation process should be completed during the summer months, for during
this period the temperature and air qualities are the most suitable for yeast to grow and
produce. This is why the best time to start the measures is from May to June. This is the same
for all wines. For sparkling wine the best time to start fermenting is in October.
8.
⁠In case certain flavour is desired, its specific taste, it must be aged in tight oak vessels
and it must remain in these wooden vessels for seven years before it is bottled. But after this the
drink surpasses even the finest wines made from grapes in its flavour.
HONEY TO WATER RATIO
It is absolutely to be remembered, that the wines taste, smell and character is a combination of
the honeys flower scents and the yeast applied. On the other hand the wines essence, or
“oiliness” and its contained alcohol are determined by the ratio of water and honey. Wine, that is
made from less than 2 *nails of honey to a gallon of water(1kg to 5 litres), will not survive. The
maximum strength, that can be achieved by applying 6 nails of honey per a gallon of water (3kg
to 5 litres). For sparkling wine I recommend 2 ¼ nails (1,125 kg), dry “still” wine 2 – 3 ½ nails (1
– 1,75kg), and from medium sweet to strongly flavoured dessert wine 4 – 6 nails (2 -3kg).
If the amount of honey in the liquid is no known, it is necessary to use an **areometer to
determine the amount of honey. Alternatively the amount of honey can be made sure by a less
precise method, by weighing ¼ gallons (or 1litre) of this liquid. A quartergallons weight (the
weight of 1 litre) and the amount of honey per watergallon (five litres) together with specific
gravity number, the true sugar amounts are as follows:
Paino=Weight. Hun.=Honey. Om.P. = SG. Sokeripit.=Sugar content”
The chart is in the picture.
*1 Nail is the old Finnish equivalent of 1 Pound
**Hydrometer