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I * 4' , _ - j I -N I - , I I t't .4 \: t ': S P :- ,.4 * # ' --- 2,5I : I) :' I. ;,I I . , 4" 14j t I . ,- : V i A Z I . II R ,- I 44- :u; .- : 1, :: I I .4' :; / .=. '' $4 '1 Ar-> 41 4 iw:I: ¼ . 4 A.4 - I00 I0 1000 * * 0 00 $, . 10 '4 A?' - 4 * 4 4.44 4.44 4 * S - V I X I. Vf I: : > . - : S6 THE WASHINGTONIAN . - 4: '; 11 - / I I - .-. . 4 :,- Y. - '' 44 :4 ;' 't I SHOULD HAVE BEEN JUST ANOTHER FACE IN the blur of bodies that circled through the hotel lobby in Zhang Jia Jie, a city in central China. But my words singled me out.' "Yun doll,' I repeated to the red-capped clerk, Maybe he understood English: "Do you have a gym here?" FOR THE PAST THREE YEARS, MY PARENTS' CIRCLE OF FRIENDS The clerk blinked, studying the inco'ngruity between English words and my half-moon eyes, rounded nose, and midnight hair. Then he reached behind the counter and pulled out an iron, as if laundry could substitute for exercise. I smiled blankly. My brain rooted through my limited Chinese vocabulary:After a minute of silence, my dad strolled up. his eyebrows arched in amused triangles. "She wants to know where the gym is," he supplied in rapid.Mandarin Chinese, his native language. He turned to me and explained gently, "Yutn dong is exercise. Sharon. Yun dou means ironY I mumbled a sheepish apology to the laughiing clerk and glanced at my dad. Ajlook of recognition flashed through his eyes: We had gone through this before. Only this time, the tables were turned. For the first time. I realized how my parents must have,felt throug4tout2their 27 i i I years as American citizens. ~Chevy t Like strangers in their own country. 0 0 I WHEN I WAS YOLUNGER, I WOULD A sometimes close my eyes and try to imagine rny parents as children. What were they li}ce growing up in China.and Taiwan? -= has arranged an annual trip to a different.region of China. Like imy parents, the majority fled to Hong Kong and Taiwan as children. As young adults, they moved to the United States to lead better lives. Now they return to China as a reminder of the past. This was the first year my parents decided to participate in the trip. They asked my older brother, Tim, and me to join them on their six-city tour across the middle of China. I almost said no. There were plenty of reasons not to accompany my parents. My brother couldn't go because of medical-school courses. I recently graduated from college and was itching to move from North Carolina to Washington. I wanted to start my new job at The Washingtonian and settle in my Rosslyn apartrment. Besides, I had already traveled through China; I spent five months in Beijing on a study-abroad program my sophomore year of college. My next dream vacation was a backpacking trip across india, not a two-week sightseeinig tour with my parents and 30 of their friends. I cringed when Mom described details of the trip, *which was shaping up td be straight out of one of Chase's "family vaca- tion" movies. g} ~ -~-- - 5''~'~ Everyone wear bright pink or blue hat," she said excitedly. "So no one get Z., . a_ t f .. lost.Suchgoodidea,dQn't you think, Sharon?" . >' \ , "Uh, yeah, Mom," I replied, thankful she couldn't In Septemb Sharon see my grimace over the phone. But I could only envision them in the grainy Liao joined er parents, I debated whether I could spend fwo 17-hour black-and-white of their faded childhood picEric aiid Brhei ida, on a trip flights trapped next to my parents, who shout tures. It was not until I saw a photo from to China, thielirhomeland. stomach-sinking questions like "Sharon, need 1973. when my dad was 38 and my mom was The visit waisfilled wvith to go pee-pee?" in public places. The trp 24, that I could finally visualize them in vivid unexpected dh isights. seemed like an impossible challenge. Those color, clad in bell-bottoms and sniling in front flights plus 17 more days of travel: Could I of our North Carolina house. make it out with my sanity intact? My parents' pre-American life was an enigma to me. But something inside urged me to go. I couldn't explain Their childhood stories didn't match the people I knew. I why,.after my jam-packed list of why-nots, I wanted to couldn't picture rmy domestic mom, unsure of her halting spend all my vacation time on my parents. English, studying international economics at a Taiwanese When the plane jerked to a stop in Shanghai, our first desuniversity. I laughed at the image of my stern father, an tination, all of those reasons I decided to go materialized in electrical engineer, chasing chickens in his Chinese village. the expressions on my parents' faces. My mom folded and I related to my parents' pre-American lives as only a seunfolded her hands impatiently iii her lap. My dad craned ries of events, like facts for some high-school history exam. over my seat for a glimpse out the porthdle window. My dad fled to Taiwan in 1949 as a 14-year-old, after the I was surprised and slightly scared to see my stoic dad's Communists won the civil war, His father fought for the loseyes glimmnering,with emotion. He slipped,his hand, soft ing side, the Nationalists. My mom's father, a Nationalist .and spotted with age, in mine. : navy captain, also retreated to Taiwan. My morn grew up "Last time I was here, more than 50 years ago," he said. thinking that her family would eventually return to China, "My parents goifig from north to south, away-from the after the Nationalists reclaimed their homeland. Communists. So much bombing. A lot of people starving.'" That didn't happen. and my parents did not step onto ChiHe leaned close and nodded. "You very lucky, Sharon." nese soil for more than 50 year's-after spending half their That was my dad's line. When I would whine as a child, lives in the United States and raising both of their children my dad's response was inevitable: "Some people not lucky as Americans. When they finally returned to the "mainland;' as you." My brother and I would mimic those words in imithey brought along a product of their American life. They tation of him, smothering our giggles. brought me, their 22-year-old daughter. . But I never cared about being lucky. I just wanted to be nor- JANUARY 2001 57 :D' ;ss mal. I wanted to be like the other American kids. My parents, however, intended mrnbrother and me to become model Chinese-Americans. They planned for us to speak fluent Mandarin and switch from American to Chinese culture with the ease and grace of,diplomats. It didn't happen. My parents struggled to teach us their culture. Starting from age six, they would drag me away from Saturday cartoons to a Chinese church. I would squirm in my seat while a teacher recited Chinese vocabulary. I d.utifully recited my "bo po ro fo's-the ABCs of speaking Chinese, But in my head, I rearranged the chalk marks that made up characters into pictures of house s and trees. When four o'clock inched by, I dashed out to the front of the church to meet my parents. For me, Saturday Chinese school wasn't the culturally.enriching experience it was intended to be. It was a major drag. When I turned nine, I declared I wasn't going to Chinese school any more. "This stinks," I yelled. "None of my friends have to go to extra school and have extra homework. Why do I have to go?" "Because.you Chinese,' my mom replied coolly. "Then I don't want to be Chinese:" I-shouted back; my face turning pink. 'It's notfair. I just want to be normal." I almost stopped, but the words were already out of my mouth. "Why can't you and Dad be normal? Why can't you be like everybody else's parents? I wish I was someone else's kid.' I waited for my mom to shout at me or drag me t. 'to my room. But shejust stared at me with tired eyes. "If you don't want to go, don't . have to'"she said, turning away. I opened my mouth to say anything that would erase that deflated look in her eyes. But it was too late. II . from across the country have flocked to Raleigh for technolQgy jobs, bringing culture, diversity, and development. But during'my youth, Raleighresidehts spoke mostly in soft Southern drawls. A cow pasture framed mpy suburban neighborhood. and the grocery store was a 20-minute drive.. The Millers across the street were known as "the black couple' and my-family was dubbed "that nice Asian family." In elementary school, I was one of two Asians in my grade. James, a Korean-American, was also born in -tlie United States. Classmates eyeballed him and me, then asked curiously, "Is James your brother?" "Nol" I responded huffily. In the third grade, James and I were in the same class for the first time. I avoided him more than the other boys. One day, James asked me,pplitely.for the scissors I was using. Turning to a friend, I rolled my eyes ind hid the scissors in my desk until he left. It made sense in my nine-year-old mind. If I ignored James, the simnilarities that singled us out from the crowd would go away. That was how I dealt with my Asian heritage. Maybe if I ignored my differences, they -E : 0 > I0 U 0 Tould disappear. FOR THE MOST PART, I FIT IN WITH MY peers. My friends and I-wore the same brand of je,ns, dried our hair into the. same frazzled messes, and wore identical bracelets as plastic. tokeifs of our friendship. But there were daily reminders that I. was different. The pork dumplings in my lunch. The way niy mom nodded confusedly instead of answering a question. My reflection in the bathroom .miror. 'These two halves of myself-the part that fit *_ ---Confused me. Where did I belong? ;I remernber facing this question on a fourth-grade standardized-test answer sheet. The directions read FILL IN RACE. The three choices made a neat row, of pale green circles: wHiTu, BLACK; and orHER. I glanced at my best friend, Sara. She crouched over her sheet. darkening AS AN ADULT, I WINCE WHEN I REMEM- Eric Uao, the author's father, ber my behavior. I want to lecture who sits on his mother's lap in his. I was thenr Tell her-not fo yell at her -parents because they were different, be- native Qirigdao, China, in 1937. Onanda Liao; above left, cause that is who they are. Tell her to is with a friend at her 1970 listen when they teach her, Chinese, becollege giraduation inTaiwan. cause that is vho she is. But I can only delve into those past the wHiTE bubble. feelings of discomfo'tr and rationalize why I I contemplated my options. I wasn't black. I pushed away my parents' culture. didn't consider myself an "other." Sara and I I grew up in Raleigh in the early 1980s, before were the same, weren't we? I picked up my inurn it became a vibrant city. In recent years, people . S8 THE WASHINGTONIAN . . .. ,_ . . .x ber-two pencil and filled in the wHITE bubble. After the test, the teacher shuffled through the answer sheets. She stopped when she reached mine. "Sharon," she called, motioning me to the front of the ro 6m. "You've filled in 'white' for your race." She erased the bubble. "You should have filled in 'other.'" Heat reddened my cheeks. "I know." I said. good price?" and "What's this meaning?". Their parents chatted easily with each other and our teachers. .Their parents understood dating, the prom, and what it was like to grow up with the pressures of drinking, drugs, and sex. Their parents asked them about their social and love lives. My parents discussed only my grades, career, and prospective salary. Their parents knew the right things to say. My HOW COULD I FORGET? parents spoke in thickly accented English. My At home, the differences that separated me stay-at-home mom speaks English like I speak from my peers were more obvious. Although my Chinese: slowly, halting, and punctuated by parents 'had lived in the United States for "um'"s,and "ah"s. She becomes confused when decades, they still led a Chinese life. They spoke someone speaks English too rapidly. to each other in, Chinese and read a Taiwanese I recognize my mom's I-don't-get-it l,ook inpaper every morning. stantly. Her mouth freezes in a Only Chinese food covered polite smile. Her eyes cloud our dinner table. Breakfast With confusion, and a thin line consisted of watery rice with traces across her forehead. pickled vegetables and meat, When her face molds into that or fried eggs with soy sauce. blank stare, I know it's time to At dinner, I'd douse my rice explain something. bowl with ketchup and re.d f About a month before we mind my parents that Sara's ,\ * left for China, I helped my family ate hamburgers at i a v ^ .,.mom return a purchase to Walhome, not just at McDonald's. D y. r: ):W! . Mart. The clerk rudely ignored My brother and I laughed at my mom's slow English, my mom's attempts at Western In a 1979 family rtrait, Sharon speaking to me instead. cuisine. Her version of macaLiao is surrounde dlIby her parents In,the car, my mom thanked roni and cheese was a bowl of and older brother im. me for my help. "Xie xie, overcooked pasta topped with Sharon," she said. slices of American cheese. My birthday cakes reI kept my eyes on the road. "It's nothing, Mom,". sembled frosted sponges until Mom discovered She patted my shoulder. "I have good daughBetty Crocker's instant cake mix. ter," she said. "Good Amdrican daughter." At school and swim-team potlucks, Morn's floury cookies outlasted even the wilted Jell-O salad. IN THE AIRPORT BEFORE WE DEPARTED FOR CHINA, We celebrated Christmas and Thanksgiving as my parents' friends-many of whom I was meeta nod to American tradition. I listened enviously ing for the first time- herded-around me. As is I as my classmates described their families' preChinese custom, they fired off one compliment sents and holiday-feasts. In our dining room, after another. Thahksgiving consisted of stringy turkey served "Such pretty daughter," they crowed to my' with rice. Christmas dinner was an improvement. beaming dad. "Good swimmer. So smart." with steamed crab or a red snapper baked in One man, my "Uncle" Liu, pulled me aside. black-bean sauce. . "Your parents," he said, wagging afinger in my My parents only vaguely knew about American face. "So proud of you. Always tailing about you." holidays. My mom, raised Catholic, explained His words surprised me. Christmas to my Buddhist father. But it was my I felt like I barely spoke with my parents. Did brother who introduced Santa Claus to my family. they really know who I was? I explained Thanksgiving's history to my parThen the question, the one I skirted throughout ents, who showered me with questions like my adolescent and college years, surfaced in my, schoolchildren. conscience. Of course I loved my parents. But I did I really know who these people -were? Did I AS I GREW OLDER,'MY PARENTS OFTEN TURNED TO even come close to understanding them? I me with questiQns about American culture and language. Sometimes I felt like ,the parent, teachTHE TOUR WAS A 17-DAY WHIRLWIND. BEGINNING IN ing my mom and dad about an American tradi.Shanghai, we snaked across the middle of China. tion or slang phrase. We toured lakes laden with lotus flowers. snapI envied my friends' relationships with their ped pictures of jagged mountains rising out of parents. It seemed so easy for them. My friends the Yellow River, and hiked up stone stairs to didn't have to worry that their parents would intricately painted temples. embarrass them with questions like "Is this Continued on page 168 I *; My parents wanted my brotherand me to become model ChineseAmericans andswitch from American to Chinese culture with the grace of diplomats. II I JANUARY 2001 S9 A Daughter's Journey Continuedfrompage 59 6 one-week residential camps: * George Mason * William & Mary * Virginia Tech * Wake Forest * NC State * UNCG I I saw beautiful things, such as rice paddies cut like square emeralds into the mountainside. I toured interesting places, like a factory where the employees spun silk into sheets of gloss. But the best part of the trip was watching my parents. They carried themselves with an ease unfamiliar to me. They blended into the throngs of Chi- tion's economy is developing rapidly, the base standard of living lags behind what I'm accustomed to. It was hard for me to step off our airconditioned tour bus into a crowd of dusty children clutching begging cups. Sometimes I felt guilty as I boarded our cruise ship with my arms full of souvenirs. I felt the employees sizing up my purchases. It reminded me of a conversation my dad and I had near the beginning of the trip. "Guess how much our tour guide makes in one year," he'd said. x - "No? She makes 400 yuan a year. Can you A believe it?" I calculated the fig,I out as two small ures. The guide, a dark figures inl cute girl just out of the crowd. Even college, earned 50 US parents' my dollars a year. tacky clothes, Later, our group and out of date r _ toured a college camAmerican by pus in Nanjing. A standards, fit in. student let me inside Their voices her dorm so I could America to grated em Eric Liao Brenda and auswelled with thority. My mom from Taiwan in 1973. Thil y were married that use the bathroom. As I walked down the would translate year at a New York churc h. hall to the toilet, I the tour guide's They.reminded rooms. at the dorm gaped voice. Chinese in her girlish, unwavering me of my two-person college room, She whispered historical anecdotes she about the same size with poster-covered learned in school as we fell in step behind walls. But six beds were crammed into the tour group. each room. At meals, my parents answered my conThe student rambled on about her aspistant questions. "What's this?" I asked suspiciously about each colorful bowi that rations. "Everyone here studies computer science, minor in English," she said. "We would rotate by on the lazy Susan. all hope to move to America one day. I My parents chuckled at my response when a waiter placed a bowl of soup on study all day so I can make good score on GRE. Do you know GRE?" the table. I was horrified to see the remI looked at this fresh-faced girl, barely nants of a turtle floating in a clear yellow out of her teens. "I could be this girl," I broth. But the rest of the table shbuted thought. Then I wondered, "What if I was with excitement. this girl? What would I be like if I grew "Turtle soup, so fragrant!" exclaimed my up here?" dad. He ladled a generous portion into his How very different I would be. Maybe bowl. "I haven't had this since I was young." more like my parents. The other adults chimed in their stories about the last time they tasted turtle soup. , Y EXPERIENCE IN CHINA PIECED TOMy table cried in dismay when I 1et the gether the puzzle I knew as my soup circle past me. For the first time, I saw * _parents. < turyou can have only time this is the "But DateAble is them in their entirety. I saw them in their tle soup," Mr. Bai said, blinking indigrpantly. a social group culture, not in mine. I placed my hand over my soup bowl. for people, I realized that many things I found em"That's okay. Really." barrassing or frustrating about my parents "Strange," Mr. Bai said in Chinese, with or without were normal in China. shaking his head. "Such good soup." disabilities, I understood why my parents moved, who seek new talked, and acted the way they did. I uns IN MOST TIERD WORLD NATIONS, ~frzenLds XyL derstood why my dad constantly remindscenes of poverty offset China's exed me I was lucky. My own face molded and new 1AXquisite beauty. Although the nainto my mom's I-don't-get-it look. Even Sharon Liao, an editorial assistant at The Washher attempts at birthday cake made sense. | /t}experiences. ingtonian, graduated from the University of North Halfway through the trip, I craved cookCarolina at Chapel Hill. She recommends that ies and sweets. In China, meals typically readers take a trip with their parents if possible. end with a plate of sliced oranges or pears. Liao can be reached at sliao@washingtonian.com. nese people instead of sticking Service Aiha rt ea i1,' M K) T H 168 THE WASHINGTONIAN PHOTOGRAPH COURTESYOF LIAO FAMILY I was thrilled when I discovered one hotel restaurant that offered Western cuisine. I beckoned the waiter and ordered a slice of cake. It was picture perfect: pale vanilla swirled with chocolate frosting. 1 dug in. My dad asked me how it tasted. I made a face. "Gross." I said, managing to swallow the dry mouthful. "It tastes like Mom's.'" He nodded in agreement. "No butter in Chinese cooking," he said. "Not like the soft kind of cake you used to in America. Better stick to fruit." Around here, this is what we call rush hour .. D URING THE TRIP I BEFRIENDED Rachel, the daughter of friends of D my parents'. We laughed over feelings we experienced as Chinese-Americans and griped about the toilets. Rachel spoke flawless Chinese and read off the characters on the karaoke screen with ease. "Your daughter speaks such good Chinese," my dad complimented Rachel's dad, Mr. Chow. "And even reads it, too. You must be so proud." I felt awkward standing next to my dad. In Chinese tradition, Mr. Chow was supposed to brush off the compliment and return it heartily. In this case, he slapped his hand on my dad's shoulder and started talking about the next tour stop. I bit my lip. The interaction touched an insecure spot, something I developed in college. Was I not Chinese enough? When I first arrived at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill in 1996, the number of Asians on campus shocked me. I had never seen so many people like me before. My classes included other sleek black heads. It was a complete contrast to elementary school. There were Asian clubs, classes, sororities, and events. Here my Chinese-American background didn't isolate me. I took pride in who I was. I enrolled in a number of Chinese- and Asian-studies classes to compensate for the many years I ignored my heritage. I read books on history and culture. I traveled to Beijing in a language program, where I learned so many things about China and myself. But through it all, I still doubted myself as a Chinese-American when I couldn't answer a Chinese-history question or speak fluently. I felt like an imposter in Chinese skin. N TEAR THE END OF THE TRIP, MY PAR- ents and I decided not to hike up _N_ s the Zhang Jia Jie mountain range. We sat and talked on a bench overlooking the towering stone monoliths. It was a few days after "the iron inci- European charm and unspoiled tranquility nestled on one of the Caribbean's top ten beaches. ,.- .. =. ./ 11..I -: .. .. f Escape to Aruba and allow us to change your idea of rush hour forever... .. 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I can't wait for my parents to visit so I can show them Chinatown and the Chinese artifacts at the Freer Gallery of Art. I reflected on these things one day while waiting for the Metro about a week after I returned from China. A middle-aged Asian man clutching his young son leaned over to me. He made friendly conversation, pointing to my jade pendant threaded on a bright-red string around my neck. "Where did you get this?" he asked, his words slanting in a familiar accent. "Oh, my mom bought it for me in China," I replied, sliding the cool bit of green between my fingers. "I was there just last week." "I am from Hong Kong," he said. "You are Chinese?" X "I was born here, but my parents are from China and Taiwan," I explained. We chatted about the places and sights I saw on my trip. The Metro squealed into the stop. "Nice that you went to China with your parents," he said. i It was nice, I reflected, as I stepped onto a Metro car. [1 I am very lucky. COPYRIGHT INFORMATION TITLE: A daughter’s journey SOURCE: Washingtonian 36 no4 Ja 2001 WN: 0100100159008 The magazine publisher is the copyright holder of this article and it is reproduced with permission. Further reproduction of this article in violation of the copyright is prohibited.. Copyright 1982-2002 The H.W. Wilson Company. All rights reserved.