29-JULY-2016 SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT _ __ _ __ _ __ _ __ Submitted By: NAME ROLL NO. E-Mail ID YOUNUS USMAN D-14-CH-115 younuskk1993@gmail.com MUHAMMAD AWAIS D-14-CH-51 engr.awais1451@gmail.com RAEES PATEL D-14-CH-111 raees.jawed@gmail.com ABDUL MANAN KHOKHAR D-14-CH-119 abdulmananhere@gmail.com DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECHNOLOGY KARACHI YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT ACKNOWLEDGEMENT We proudly present our report which is based on Wet processing. For this report we are extremely thankful to the talented people that worked and helped us in sorting out our circulated questionnaires and confusion throughout the internship especially we would like to thanks the skillful personalities and worker whose co-operating was very beneficial & studious for us. We are also very thankful to, GM Processing Incharge of Processing Floor QC Executive Management Trainee Management Trainee Mr. Rizwan Younus Mr. Javed Salat Mr. Imran Sabir Mr. Farooq Ali Mr. Usama Bin Adnan Special thanks to respected Mr.Javed Salat guided us during our internship program. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 1 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT PREFACE In line with recent trends toward high-quality production and diversification in the textile processing, much efforts are being exerted to improve the performance of mixed fabrics of natural and synthetic fibers and to introduce the new product with new values. The report includes information presents a detailed description of the standard latest working procedure in wet processing on Polyester/Cellulosic blends, CVC, PC fabrics. As continuous wet processing for polyester/cellulosic blends, CVC, PC fabrics involves a large variety of fiber substrates, processing methods for pretreatment and dyeing and finishing. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 2 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT YUNUS TEXTILE MILL Yunus Textile Mills (YTM) is the latest addition to the Yunus Brothers Group of Companies. YTM is a complete vertically integrated textile mill with state-of-the-art machinery for the home textiles and the garment industry. It is also a major contender in the home textile and garment export segment of the Pakistani economy. The staff strength at only YTM unit is around 6,500 employees whereas the Yunus Group employs approximately 15,000 staff countrywide. Yunus textile group is a big name in Pakistan export and a winner of above 20 export trophy from the government of Pakistan for the highest exports from the country as well as the highest exports in the textile sector. The group of companies: Fazal textile mills limited. Gadoon textile mills limited. Lucky cement limited. International trading. Lucky textile mills. ICI Pakistan limited Yunus textile mill basically deals with home textiles and has following international customers: Germany: MGB METRO, KAUFHOF. USA: JC PENNY, TARGET, WALL-MART, MARMAXX, KOHL’S, SEARS, LINEN-N-THINGS, BED BATH AND BEYOND Italy: GABEL, CAMAGNOLO DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 3 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Products: YTM has its own products includes: Bed linen. Curtains. Bath Shower Curtains. Kitchen Curtains. Table Covers. Blended Fabric. Cotton Fabric. Dyed Fabric. Grey Fabric. Printed Fabric. Bleach Fabric. Mercerized fabric. FinishedFabric. FLOW CHART FOR WET PROCESSING Grey Fabric Inspection Sewing or Stitching Singeing Bleaching Scouring De-sizing Mercerizing Dyeing / Printing Finishing Lab Testing Sanforising Calendaring Final Inspection Finish Folding Delivery DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 4 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT GREIGH DEPARTMENT This is the first department of the wet processing industry. In Greigh department inspection of fabric is done with the help of 10-100% inspection the fabric fault are counted and grading of fabric is done. Production: Machine speed is 100 m/min. Maximum width run on machine is 126-130 inches.2.25 lacks for three shifts. Each shift process about average 32000 meter per machine. GREY DEPARTMENT DEALS: To inspect, mend & grade the fabric. Making lots. To keep the record of store fabric. The rejected fabric is sent back to the respected Mill. Make bath and transfer it to the next department. Inspection / Grading: The main purpose of the inspection is to check the Greigh fabric for identify the faults. Tacoma (Spain) Batch Making: (2003 Model) Speed 90-100 m/min. Tacoma is brushing and batch making machine in greigh department. Batcher machine is used to made batch of the fabric. Maximum batching Length: 700-750 a/c to the density of fabric. Components of the machine: 1. Conveyor belt. 2. Screy. 3. Expanding rollers and guide rollers. 4. Winder. 5. Brush. The fabric is placed on conveyor belt the pile is threaded through the tension rods and the guide rolls works on the electronic sensing to run the fabric in center the fabric is than enter the scray than the fabric DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 5 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT is passed through the expanding roll which expands the fabric to run in smooth through the machine. After it the fabric entered into the brushing section to brush the contaminants and fluff and fly because they may create problems in next process especially in dyeing and printing. The fabric is than rolled on a frame to make our required batch wheel rotates and measure how much fabric is wounded. There are two Tacoma machines installed in YTM. Singe De-Size Machine (Osthoff): (1999 Model) Singeing is the removal of protruding fibers from the surface of the fabric in order to improve their surface appearance and sharp surface for printing and dyeing and also to remove the size material applied on to the warp yarns to avoid breaking of warp yarn due to mechanical stress. If not done, this will disturb the appearance of dyed and printed fabric. Parameters for singeing: • Singeing position • Flame intensity • Fabric speed • Distance between fabric and burner Machine Components: • • • Guide rollers Pre drying Pre rushing • • • Singeing chamber Cooling drums Post brushing • • De-sizing unit Winder. 2 3 DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 6 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Parameters: Machine name Made Max. Width of singe de-size 1 Max. Width of singe de-size 2 Max. speed Flame intensity Pressure of the padder OSTHOFF Germany 126” 110” 100 m/min 10-16 cm 2.5 bar Flame angles 90,45,90 SCOURING & BLEACHING SCOURING; The process of scouring is to make material highly and uniformly absorbent. (i-e the removal of natural impurities like wax, fats, oils). When oils and fats are heated with a solution of sodium or potassium hydroxide, they hydrolyzed into glycerol and the alkali salts of fatty acid, these salts of fatty acid are soaps therefore his particular hydrolysis is referred to as Saponification, BLEACHING; Scouring removes almost all the impurities except natural coloring matters which are ultimately broken down with bleaching agents. Bleaching is necessary for producing white goods either as finished products or for dyeing pastel shades. There are two scour bleach machines both the machines are continuous and gives average 2.5 production per day. Scour Bleach -2 step (Goller Germany): 2004 Model The machine is 2 step scour bleach machine with 1-1.2 lack production. Machine parameters: Speed Caustic H2o2 Stabilizer Wetting agent 125 m/min 48 Be 50% KEB RGN The fabric after de-sizing is directly carried out on the bleaching machine for the process of washing, scouring and bleaching. machine parts and their functions and also process on the machine, DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 7 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Scour Bleach solomatic (Goller 1995): Production of goller solomatic is about 1.23lack per day production. Machine components: Pre washing: Chemical padding: Steaming: Post washing: 2 chambers for pre washing at 90-98 C. Chemical padder in which scouring and bleaching chemicals are padded. The fabric is entered into the steamer 103-108 C for 22 min. 4 chambers in post washing 3. chambers for washing at 70-98 C and last 1 for neutralization. MERCERIZATION OBJECTIVES To increase luster. To increase the affinity for dyes. To increase the tensile strength. To give dimensional stability Use of dye after mercerizing is less Width control After mercerizing increase cost of fabric Rs 2.70 per meter. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 8 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT In this process cotton is dipped in a solution of NaOH so that NaOH penetrated in to the fiber and then NaOH is washed out completely by neutralizing by dilute acid like formic acid. When mercerizing fiber are examined under microscope. It is seen that each fiber in twisted ribbon like form. After mercerizing fibers become cylindrical and free from twists. Process: After bleaching the Ends/Picks of the fabric are disturbed and also fabric is shrink up to 510%, therefore to regain fabric original width and Ends/Picks fabric is conditioned to be passed through the STENTER MACHINE, it is also depends upon the material requirement. After pre-stenter the fabric batch is placed on a mercerizing machine The fabric is passed through a number of guide and Bow rolls. After that the material is dipped in to the main section, which is a STRONG LYE containing chamber. The number of chambers in mercerizing machine is different and depends upon the manufacturer of the machine. In this chamber the material is continuously treated with caustic soda of about 26-30°Be @ 60°c. The lye is showered in zigzag manner the fabric is rolled over a number of padder. Load cell are used to maintain tension to the coming fabric. If the material is subject able for reactive print mercerization is necessary, whereas on the other hand for pigment print no mercerize material is required. After strong lye the fabric is passed through weak lye chamber. The temperature is increased up to 85°c and caustic concentration is decreased up to 7-8°Be, this gradually reduction in caustic concentration stabilize the mercerized material, then in the stabilizing section caustic concentration is decreased up to 4-3°Be through counter flow of water. The mercerized material is rinsed and washed and PH is maintained in a washing range. The next stage after weak lye section is washing. In goller machine there are four chambers as compare to FAISLABAD MERCERIZE. The temperature of starting chamber is about 90-95°c and last washing chamber contain room temperature. In continuous washing range of GOLLER MACHINES, neutralization is also alone by using formic or acetic acid. After neutralization the wet fabric is wound on a batch with the help of tension and winding arm. PAD THERMOSOL MONFORTS (2002): Pad Thermosol is a high temperature dyeing. On pad thermosol we ca get dark shades we are not fixing the dyes on pad steam we can dye vat, disperse and disperse dyes. In YTM there are two Pad thermosol machines with 1.2 lack production per day. Pad thermosol 1 has 4 chambers and it is automatic and Pad thermosol 2 has 5 chambers and it is manual. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 9 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Types of Dyes applied on Pad thermosol machine: Disperse Vat Reactive Pigment PROCESS SEQUENCE IN PAD STEAM Batcher Screy Cooling drums Drying and curing chamber Cooling drums Padding IR (pre-drying) Screy Batcher Working of Machines: The fabric is unwound and then pass through brushing section here the fluff is brushed and fabric is collected and stored in screy. fabric passes over cooling drums to cool down the temperature of fabric because when we are dyeing PC fabric then after RC fabric is hot enough. The fabric is then passed through Kuster padders, two types of pressure used in Kuster padders hydraulic and neumatic.the central pressure is hydraulic and sides pressure is neumatic.we can adjust the pressure of the padders . Then there is given I.R system the temperature of I.R is about 60- 50 c. there are two I.R installed the temperature of first I.R kept 850 c and second 800c.the function of I.R is to remove 30-35% moisture. the fabric is then passed through the thermos, 5 chambers are provided, 1-2 Drying. 3 Drying. 4-5 Fixation. The fabric is then passed through cooling drums and finally fabric is collected on a batcher. PAD STEAM MACHINE :(GOLLER 2000 Germany) Pad steam is used for dyeing light shades and the fastness properties of the pad steam is better than pad thermosol. On pad steam fixation of dyes also done. The max temperature of the machine is 100 cand speed 80 m/min. we can done RC, VAT develop, wet on wet and chemical pad. In pad steam there are three types of flows, 1-Counter flow 2-Static flow 3-Over flow In pad steam there are two I.R for high production. We can plant one I.R for normal production. In pad steam we use urea and steam for increasing the moisture but we use steam in the replacement of urea DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 10 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT because is less costly then urea also the urea damage the environment. In pad steam there is an E control or economical control. E-control provide good results but initially produce some variations. Production of Pad steam is 1 lack per day. Chambers of Washing Range: Chamber Chamber Chamber 1,2 and 3 4,5,6 7,8 soaping, RC, VAT develop Hot Washing Neutralizing Cylinder dryers: There are 20 cylinder dryers last 2 cylinders contain water and 18 cylinders contains super saturated steam 120 C. PRINTING There are 3 m/c of REGGIANI having max fabric length 130” and 97” and length is 40 m. on Printing 1 and 2 ,16 colors can be printed and on Printing 3 12 colors can be printed at a time. Production is 1-1.3 lack per day. CAM CAD: The design given by the customer may be on a paper or directly they given a sample fabric to the cad cam department they scan the design in the computer. Software used: • • Ram Set Photoshop After the approval of the design by the customer design is sent to the engraving department. Screen Coating: The screen is made up of 100% nickel. Screen is coated with coated material SCR 100. Screen is coated upside down for 15-30 min at high temp over 180-200c and left for dry about 10-30 min. Screen exposing: Wax exposing machine. Contain black wax which fired on the screen. When light strikes on the screen wax become hard. Ink jet. Laser exposing. Laser light bombarded. SCR 102+101 coat is used only curing, exposing and enduring. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 11 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Screen Developing: The screen is developed which means only that parts where patterns are printed on screen are removed from coating while other remains same Oven Heat (polymerization): The screen is again oven heated. Hindering: The screen is thoroughly washed normally to make sure the patterned area is open i.e. Mashes are not closed by coating or another dust. Dried and Heated: Finally, the screen is heated and dried and sent to the rotary machine Types of sheets/mashes for screen: Standard Panda Nova 30,40,60,80 100,125,125 V, 155,155 DHL,165 mesh 135,135 DHL, 165,195 mesh. Process flow: Entry → Printing → Dryer→ Exit Components of machine: •Entry •Suction •Flat rollers •Trolley • • • • Printing zone Sensor Conveyor belt washing Dryer The fabric is passes through guide screen rollers to the suction area here the sucker sucks the fabric fluff and dust particles. Flats are provided when we use knit fabric. The fabric enters into the trolley where DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 12 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT PVA is applied to stick he fabric with the blanket belt. The machine is provided with an I.R system and cambered plate to give temperature to the thermoplastic glue. Then the fabric enters into the printing zone. The fabric is sandwiched b/w the rollers and the blanket, magnetic system of printing is used. Color is dozed into the squeegee through pumps automatically. The first screen roller is to press the fabric and the second gathers the remaining fluff. The printing starts from the third screen. each screen prints a single color. the number of the screen depends on the type of design. The sensor is used to control the speed of the blanket. The fabric than entered into compact HC dryer 160-180 c. the dryer has 5 burners. The dryer has three passages air is blown into the chambers 2 times. Finally, the fabric is collected by a crank gear mechanism to a trolley. FINISHING Stenter machines (Monforts Montex): The purpose of the stenter machine is to bringing the length and width to pre determine dimensions and also for heat setting and it is used for applying finishing chemicals and also shade variation is adjusted. Components of Machine: Padders Weft straightner (Mahlo) Burners Heat recovery Attraction rollers Circulating fans Exhaust fans Winder Clips Pins I.R Cooling drums The fabric is collected from the batcher to the screy and then it is passed through the padders where the finishes are applied and sometimes shade variation is corrected. The fabric is entered into the mahlo (weft straigtner) the function of the mahlo is to set the bow and also weave of the fabric is griped by the clips and pins are also provided but the pins has a disadvantage that they pins make holes at the selvedge but the stretching of the pins are greater than the clips. These clips and pins are joined to endless chain. There are 8 to 10 chambers provided on the machine each chamber contains a burner and filters are provided to separate dust from air. The circulating fans blow air from the base to the upper side and exhaust fans sucks all the hot air within the chambers. Attraction rollers are provided to stretch the warp yarn. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 13 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT After stentering we can increase the width of the fabric up to 1.5-2 inch. The speed of the machine is about 7-150 m/min.3 meters fabric can run in each chamber. Temperature is adjusted that a/c to the fabric as for, PC 210 c Cotton 110-130 c After dyeing 160-170c and after print 130-140c. Calendaring Machine (KLEINEWEFERS) Calendaring is an operation carried out on a fabric to improve its aesthetics. Purpose of calendaring is: To upgrade the fabric hand and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric. To improve the opacity of the fabric To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness. To impart different degree of luster to the fabric. To reduce yarn slippage. The mechanical finish is done for softness and shining of the fabric or stiffness according to the nature of the chemical, this process is done after the chemical finishing as per buyer requirement. Speed of the machine is 10-100 m/min. There are two calendaring m/c in ytm production of 1 machine is 1.5 lac / day Components of machine: Winder Metal detector Seam detector Rollers (cotton, reclon and steel) Anti-static rod Oscillating roll Batcher sensor cooling drum DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 14 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT SANFORISING MACHINE: Monforts Sanforizer: (Germany 2003) The processed fabrics are subjected to elongation during processing. The shrinkage is controlled in the mercerize and stenter to some extent and it is ultimately brought within the norms in the latest monforts sanforizer made in Germany. The width ranges from 40cms to 325cms. Sanforising is a mechanical of treating the textile fabrics to prevent the normal dimension alterations of warp weft, which occur in the finishing operation; especially those carried on in laundering &allied operations. Production / day70,000 Speed 50 m/min but max is 120 m/min Rubber roller length 305- 312 MECHANICAL COMPRESSIVE SHRINKAGE: The fabric is compressed by the contraction of the conveyor surfaces on which the fabric has been made to adhere. The conveyor takes the form of a rubber belt or sleeve. The outer end expands as it passes over a roller and at this point the fabric is applied. The surface contracts with it, expansion and contraction are controlled, precise and predetermined length can be obtained, hence the process is positive. EVASET PRINCIPLE a specially made rubber sleeve is tensioned b/w roller 2 and 3. A driving roll on the outside of sleeve and deflects the upper run of sleeve into a reverse curvature, the driving roller 1 is steam heated. The outer surface of rubber sleeve is expanded as it moves round the tension roller. The driving roller nips the fabric into contact with the expanded surface contract on taking up the reverse curvature around the driving roller. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 15 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Textile testing lab The YTM processing laboratory has latest testing equipments for testing fabric, yarn and also shade matching. the lab is divided into 4 portions. Lab dip. RND. Physical. Online Q.C. Lab Dip: A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. Several lab dips may be submitted for feedback until the standard is achieved and the lab dip is approved. There is also now a machine used to read lab dips called a "spectrometer” which will give the same feedback. As not everyone sees color as well as the next (and you can be tested to see how well you see color) a machine can take out human error. RND and Color Matching: The main functions of RND department are to check all the running chemicals used in the industry and also to find our troubleshooting and investigate the problem and solve it. They also check new chemicals available in market which fulfills the running chemical and it is cheaper than the running one. Important tests conducted by RND portion, Whiteness. CMC. Formaldehyde test. Water testing. Raw material checks. Barium activity test. Core pH. Troubleshooting. New product assessment. Degree of de-size. Absorbency test. CHEMICAL TESTING WASHING TEST: Sample size= 10x4” Standard=ISO -105 CO1 CO6 CO1 and CO2 are for the leather garments CO4 for the Vat dyes CO6 for the fabric SHIRINKAGE TEST: Sample Size: For ISO=50x50 cm For AATCC=38x38cm DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 16 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Standards: SO-6330 2A-9A AATCC-135 Washing machine for ISO wascator Washing machine for AATCC=Whirlpool Sample is washed in its washing machine and dried. Then, its size is checked and change in size is noted. Both warp and weft shrinkage is tested. pH METER: It is important machine in any chemical lab to check out the pH. PERSPIRATION TEST: Perspiration test is performed for both acidic and alkaline mediums.2 samples that are sandwiched between the multi-fiber fabrics are dipped in acidic and alkaline solution. then these fabrics are placed on perspirometer under a weight of 5 kg for 4 hours for ISO and 6 hours for AATCC. Then the stains on the multi-fabric are matched with the grey scale. HARDNESS TEST: To check the hardness of water, 1 ml of buffer of pH 10 is added in the sample and is titrated with EDTA. Eurochrome black t (EBT) is used as an indicator. The point at which the sample gives blue color is noted and is hardness of water. Hardness= burette reading * 20 DETECTION OF IRON PARTICALES: Iron particles present in fabric create pinholes after bleaching and they appear visible after dyeing. In order to detect % of iron particles in fabric, 10% of potessium thiocyanide and 5% of nitric acid are used. Dip the fabric in nitric acid for 5 to 10 min, dry then dip in potessium cyanide solution. The iron particle on the fabric will appear as red spots and are easily detected. Spectrophotometer meter: Spectrophotometry involves the use of a spectrophotometer. A spectrophotometer is a photometer (a device for measuring light intensity) that can measure intensity as a function of the color, or more specifically, the wavelength of light. We can take each and any type of test including shade matching, CIE whiteness test, Burger whiteness test and also this instrument give us the composition of shade. Data Color D650 Dual Beam Spectrophotometer. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 17 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT PHYSICAL TESTING All the physical tests on a textile sample or material is conducted in physical portion of the lab. The tests conducted by the physical portion are, Tensile strength Seam. Abration Air permeability. Pilling. Appearance. Rubbing fastness. Washing fastness. Color fastness. Water fastness. Perspiration fastness. Dry cleaning fastness. Light fastness DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 18 YUNUS TEXTILE MILL (YTM) SUMMER INTERNSHIP REPORT Final Folding Taking samples from each and every roll and faults are detected and the grading is done then shade is forwarded to the shading department. The rolls are separated in shade wise. The defected fabric is separated. The grading is done a/c to the customer requirement. There are two types of machines in YTM namely, • Rolling machine. • Flat folding machine. The rolling machine is used for making the rolls of A and B grade fabrics and other graded fabrics are separated and folded on flat folding machine. DAWOOD UNIVERSITY OF ENGINEERING & TECNOLOGY, KARACHI Page 19