M M E LIN A
.
CAVALI E RI
M Y S EC R ET S
O F B EA U T Y
BY
M M E LI N A C A V A LI E R I
.
T H E M O S T F A M O U S LI V I N G B E
In c lu di ng M ore T h
Prep
arati
on s
MME
.
ATE D
.
V
n
U sed
M me
I LLU S T R
a
an
AU T Y
a l ab l
u
e
R e c ip e s for
d R e c o mmen de d b y
r lf
C av al i eri He
se
WW
I
TH
I
NE
CA V A L E R
F A M OU S
P H O T OGR A P HS O F
I
A ND O TH E R
B E AU T I E S
W
P U B LI S H E D
BY
T H E CI R CU LA T I O N S Y N D I C A TE , I N C
NE
Y OR "
I
C TY
.
C o p yri g h t b y S ta r C o mp a ny
C o p yri g h t 19 14 b y C i rc ula ti o n S yn d i c a te
,
,
,
I nc
DED
I CATE D
To
EV E R Y S E E " E R AF T E R
B E AU T Y
CO N T E N T S
CH A P TER
I
II
T
H I N GS
IV
"
E
VI
VII
V
III
IX
X
XI
XI I
CO M P LE X I O N
H ow To M A " E Y OU R NE C"
III
V
TH E
T H E CA RE OF
EP IN G
To D O
W
B EA U TI FI ER
TH E
D U T I ES EVE R Y
F EET
WW
T H E P R O P ER CA R E OF
THE
M O U TH A N D TEE TH
OM A N O
B EA U TY
T H E CA RE OF
ES
To
H ER H A I R
H IN T S FO R M E N
TH E
NA I L S A N D F I N GER S
B EA U TY B A TH S
—
OO
D
H
E
A
LTH
B EA U TY S
G
’
F O U N DA T I O N
XIII
H ow To A CQ U I RE A P L EA S IN G V O I C E
XI V
H ow T O I M P R OVE YO U R F I GU RE
XV
XV I
XV II
XV III
XI X
XX
XX I
XXII
XXII I
A N D NO SE
,
To D o FO R
U S EF U L
E Y ES , EA R S
H A N D S A R M S A N D S H O U LDERS YO U N G
THE
M ASS AGE A S A
HAT
TH E
F OR
B EA U T I F U L
S AF E , EA S Y
W
A Y S OF R ED U C I N G
W
E I GH T
H ow T O GAI N F L ES H
E X ER C I SES T H A T H E LP M A "
P O S TP O NI N G
THE
E
D RE A D S I G N S
Y OU B E A U T IF U L
OF
OLD A G E
H ow To T R AI N YO U R CH IL D RE N T o B E
A DV I C E
To
S U RE A I D S
T HE
B EA U T I F U L
BLO N D ES A N D B R U N E TTES
TO
B EA U TY S
’
B E A U TY
P ERS O NA L I TY
O DD S A N D EN D S O F
A N D H E R CLO TH ES
B EA U TY
CULTU R E
LI S T O F I LLU S T R A T I O N S
Madame Lina Cavalieri
F r onti s pi ece
F ACI N G
P A GE
Mary Garden
12
Anna Held
P auline Fre d erick
Maxine
E lli ott
Lois E w ell
14 2
Ma d ame Cavalieri
Kitty Gordon
2 54
F O RE
I
W
ORD
N this volume is prese n ted what we co n fide n tly believe
to be the most complete collection o f autho r itative i n
formation o n the subj ect o f pe r sonal beauty a n d the best
m ethods of acquiring and preservi n g it e v er O ffered to the
public in compact ha n dy inexpensive form
All the newest and best ways o f helpi n g a woma n to r e
tain her youthful char m for a n indefi n ite pe r iod are clea r ly
described in thes e pages and with them a r e give n more
than o n e th o usan d teste d recipes which will be found o f the
g r eatest assistance in attaini n g the desired e n d
E v e ry statement made in this book is based o n lo ng and
thorough practical experie n ce ; eve ry recipe has the e n
d o r s eme n t o f the greatest livi n g authorities o n aids t o
beauty Madame Li n a Cavalieri he r self has followed the
advice which s he here ge n erously passes o n to other women
The preparatio n s for which recipes are given are all o n es
the famous p r ima do n na hersel f uses and to thei r use she
owes the fact that for so many y ea r s S he has been a c
claimed the most beautiful woman o n ea rth
T he woman w ho ow n s this book will be f r eed fo r ever
”
f r om dependence upon u n reliable beauty docto r s a n d
expe n sive cosmetics o f doubtful value Here She has all
the best advice the world a ffords to help her make the mos t
o ut O f the ski n the hair the eyes th e teeth the figure and
all the othe r cha r ms with which Nature has endowed her
Most o f the th o usand and m o r e recipes this volume con
tai n s ca n be easily p r epa r ed at small expe n se right in your
o w n home
A n d no o n e need have the slightest hesi
tat i o n abou t usi n g any o f them
Not only are the y person
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F ORE
W
O RD
l ly recommended by Madame Cavalieri but they have the
e n dorsement o f all the greatest beauty specialists o f both
America and Europe
Great pains has been taken in their selection and a n y
whose v alue seemed doubtful o r which ml ght by any possi
b i li ty have harmful e ffects have bee n rigidly excluded
The world to day places a higher v aluation up o n per
so n al appearance than ever be fore A n d this is why a
book like this which explains j ust how to make the most
o f you r physical self is certain o f a wa r m welcome fr o m
the public
T H E P U B LI S H E R S
a
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M Y S E C R ET S O F B EA U T Y
C H A P TER I
TH E
C
AR E
THE
OF
C O M P LEX I O N
every woman — o r fo r that matter every man
who wants to have and r etain a good complexion the
o n e thorough to ilet O f the day should be made in the even
i ng This done the other toilets throughou t the day may
be brie f a n d more or less perfunctory
The real housecleani n g particularly o f the f ac e an d neck
Should take place at night The reason for this is appare n t
The skin has been in co n tact with the dust and smoke and
cou n tless othe r soiling agents o u t O f doors At night i m
mured in the bedroom an d swathed in bed clothes there
is slight chance o f v agrant d ust sett ling o n the s kin
Another reason is that if the day s grime is allowe d to
remain upon the face o r neck it becomes imbedded in the
pores an d a part o f it at least is taken into the circula
tion and thus car r ied through the bo d y
Wash the face most thoroughly at night F irst with a
coat o f col d cream which may be wiped awa y a fter leaving
it o n for a few minutes S econd with tepid water and a
mild soap I f yo u use a face cloth let it be o f soft silk
o r muslin o r cheesecloth
but personally I p re fer j ust the
f
alms
the
hands
o
p
Do not r ub the face har d A h ar d ru bbing l oosens the
skin c au ses the muscles to sag and m akes wrinkles form
OR
F
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I I
M Y S ECRET S O F
12
BE AU T Y
Last of all give the face its cold c r ea m bath This is
i n dispensable to the person who woul d have a good c o m
plexion A Skin food such as lanolin ay b e used instead
o f cold cream for the face bath i f pre ferred
A col d
c r eam that is excellent for softe n ing and cleansing the skin
is made as follows
Cocoa butter 3 2 grams ; spermaceti 3 2 grams ; o il o f
sweet almonds 1 6 0 g r ams ; whit e wax 1 6 g r ams
A more elaborate an d expensive cream that is als o a
help ful skin food is compou n ded as follows
La n oli n 2 % ounces ; spermaceti
ou n ce ; o i l O f sweet
almo nd s 2 ounces ; fresh mutton tallo w 2 % ou n ces cocoa
nut oil 2 ounces ; ti n cture o f benzoin
dram ; Portugal
extract 2 ou n ces ; O il o f neroli I O drops
—
l
i
o
d
Almo n d milk s an
fashione d favorite still in u Se i n
some o f the best fo r mulae for complexi o n emollie n ts and
bleaches A good ast r i n ge n t cream that both bleaches and
softe n s the skin is this
Almo n d milk f r om 5 0 crushe d almonds ; rose w ater I
pint
I f the mixture is n ot smooth it should be strained
through a cheesecloth o r so ft silk before usi n g In this
form it is so fte n i n g a n d white n i ng With the addition o f
ou
n
ce
f
alu
it
is
stro
n
gly
ast
r
ingent
esides
o
m
b
2
V
With the cold cream o r the Skin food massage away the
wri n kles made by a hard day With rotary motion mas
sage away f rom the corners o f the eyes to the hair li n e
I n the same way with the tip s O f the fi n gers iron ou t t he
li n es which conce n t r atio n has written between the eye
b r ows With the tips o f the middle fi n gers massage the
li n es upward f r om t he corne r s o f the lips t o the no strils
and try to eradicate the ugly little lines in front o f the
ea r s by rubbi n g ge n tly upward
The ca r e of the c o mplexion in Winter di ffers c ons i d
For e xample to cou nteract
e r ably from that in S ummer
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M A RY G A R D E N
a u t h o r o f M y S ec ret s o f B e a u ty
d o n n a as o ne o f t he b e s t ex am p l es o f t he
T he
”
s
“
l c t s t he f am o u s p ri ma
”
w e l l ro u nd e d w o ma n
e e
.
M Y S ECRET S O F
I4
BEAU T Y
warm water and with this remove whatever p aste remains
o n the Skin
It is eas y t o d o the complexion irreparable inj ury in
S ummer One too long fishi n g j aun t one automobile dash
with the skin ill protected against the bur n ing su n ; a to o
long dawdli n g o n the toasti n g sa n ds and the evil is do n e
The once beautiful complexion has become a memory In
i ts place is only a dry withe r ed remnant o f wha t was onc e
a fresh soft ros e like Skin
How to p revent such a tragedy to beauty —for no
woman was ever beautiful without a good complexion and
no woman with a goo d complexi o n can be less than at
—
tractive
I sh all t ry to tell yo u
First and last an d al
ways vigilance
First prepare you r skin for an outi ng It is best never
to u s e hot water on the skin But if you insist upon that
pe r nicious habit at least do not use it shortly before going
out for the hot water renders the skin acutely sensitiv e
to any n ew influence The win d cuts more deeply into
it The sun s rays burn farther They reach the danger
li n e to which I have referred and that really exists
To prepare the skin for its battle with the elements o f
a lo n g S ummer da y the face should be cleansed with tepid
water and almon d meal instead o f soap The action O f the
almond meal upon the face is soothi n g an d co oli n g B e
fore going o u t int o the heat dust the face lightly with ric e
powder which will adhere better i f a very light coat o f col d
cream has first been admi n istered
This famous old English cream is o n e o f the best f or the
pu rpose
Cocoa butter 2 ounces ; la n olin 2 ounces ; glycerine 2
ounces ; rosewater 3 ounces ; eld e r fi ow er water 1 % ounces
I f sweet cream is availab le bathe the face freely with
I f this d oesn t quickl y a llay the b u rning t ry this
it
cucumber cream
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CARE
TH E
O F T HE C O M P L E XI O N
15
Almond o i l I ou n ce ; O live o il I ounce ; white wax 1
o unce ; spermaceti I ounce ; essence o f cucumber 2 ounce s
I f as may happ en in a count r y resort this excellent milk
follow the face bat h o f
o f cucumbers cannot be procured
s weet cream with o n e compose d o f
S lices o f on e cucumber ; sweet milk I pint
I f the case is n ot h o peless but obsti n ate this honey
balm should relieve the brown hue O f tan that follows a
deep but not irremediable Skin burning
O ra n ge flower water 3 ounces ; strained honey I ounce ;
cold c r eam 2 ounces ; white almon d s ( p ounde d to paste )
I V ou n ces
I f the hands have suffere d equally with the face this
lotion is e ffectual in reducing the u n lovely red n ess "
L emon j uice 1 ou n ce ; strai n ed honey 1 ounce ; cologn e
1 ounce
S hould the u n usual exposure result in freckles the appli
cation with a small sponge o r bit o f cotton o f either o f thes e
I recommend
Powdered borax V2 dram ; sugar
dram ; lemon j uice
1 ounce
Another application that may b e used is ma d e O f
Muriate o f ammo n ia
dram ; lavender wate r I dram ;
d istille d water 4 ounces
I f the case is less severe I recommen d for freckles
this "
Peroxide o f hydrogen I ou n ce ; ammonia 1 0 drops
These may all b e more deftly applie d with a camel s
hair brush tha n in any other w ay
S trawbe r ry water which was the bath o f some o f the
court beauties o f an ext r avagant age may be used in seaso n
by Ame r ican beauties for the freshening o f the facial ski n
discolo r ed by tan o r withere d by t o o g r eat exposu re o r by
lack o f care after that exposure to sun o r win d It is
made thus "
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M Y S ECRET S O F
16
BE AUT Y
'
Crushed strawberries 2 pou n ds ; alcohol ( 9 5 per cen t )
I pint
Befo re retiring it is well to give the face three baths
first with pu r e cold cream to remove the coarser dust ;
Second with tepid i f possible distilled water — i f not
—
water softened with borax o r benzoin
and last a light
coat o f cold cream
I f the danger line has no t been reached nor even ap
h
r
c
a
o
e d these a p plications sh o uld restore the complexion
p
to its fo r mer delicacy in a few days If the case is n ot
hopeless but obstinate this paste Should relieve the brown
hue O f tan th at follows a deep but not irremediable skin
burning I have given to this , which I have o ften used
after an automobile t o ur the fi tting name Honey Balm
Orange flower water 3 ounces ; strained honey I ou n ce ;
cold cream 2 ounces ; white almon d s ( p ounde d to paste )
17
2 ounces
This is o ne o f the cooling creams d esirable for u se in
summer
Oil o f almonds I pi n t ; olive o i l I ounce ; cucumber j uice
1 pint ; white wax I ou n ce ; spe r maceti I ou n ce ; cucumber
j uice ( which has been boiled skimmed and strained ) 2
ounces
Excellent for freckles tan and other discolorations is
this
S our milk I cup ful ; horsera d ish I teaspoo n ful S crape
the horseradish i n to fi n e sh r eds a nd let sta n d in the sou r
milk for S i x hours be fo r e u si n g Then wash the face f r eely
in it
F r esh buttermilk is a cleansi n g freshe n i n g tan a n d
freckle removing face bath t o be taken at night
This to o is a lotion which has been recommended by
many
Citrine ointment I dram ; o il o f almonds I dram ; sper
maceti O i n tment 6 drams attar o f roses 3 drops
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THE
C A RE
OF
C O M PL E XI O N
THE
17
either freck les o r liver Spots this has been in many
instances curative
S olution o f ammonia I ounce ; bay rum 1 ounce ; r ose
water I o unce ; powdere d borax I ounce ; glycerine V2
ounce ; distille d water 1 0 drops
S till ano ther fo rmula for freckles an d tan is this which
has a great po p ularity
A m moniu m chloride I d ram ; d istille d wate r 4 ounces
S ome faces otherwise p r etty ar e d isfigure d b y a greasy
T he nee d is met by this 10
o r oily Skin in the summe r
tion which is at once cleansing cooling and d rying It
should be used as a face bath twice o r O ftener a day ac
cording to need
Rosewater 5 % ounces ; alcohol V2 ounce ; boric acid
dram
2
V
After using any tan o r f reckle lotion containing acid
co o l the Skin by massage with a pure col d cream
For sunburn I would suggest as an old an d t r ie d remedy
Equal parts o f oxide O f zinc O intment and cosmoline
Cooling for the sunburne d surfaces is rosewater o r a
solution o f bicarbonate o f so d a A pply the m with a sponge
usi n g them repeatedl y until the bur n ing
o r bit o f cotton
sensation disappears
For the removal o f freckles these have been r eco mmen d ed
after much u se "
A solutio n o f powdered nite r o r a solution o f b i c ar bon
ate o f soda T hese should be a p plied t o the f ace night and
mor n i n g
O n ce a fter motoring on the It alian Rivie ra I s aw some
most unwelcome Spots o n my nos e — light yellow ob t ru
—
sive
resembling the dots with which a t u rkey egg is
fl ec k e d
A chau ffeuse sent me this p rescription which I
have Since use d man y times always successfully
L actic acid 4 ounces ; glyce r ine 1 ounce ; rosewat e r x
o u nc e
F or
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S ECRET S O F
MY
18
BEA U T Y
This also is as e fficacious as it is simple
Glycerine I o u nce ; j uic e o f V2 lemon
F or the excessive and odorous p erspiration that troubles
many in summer I recommen d this f ormula for a d ust
ing powder Its u se shoul d be precede d by a sponge bath
A fterwar d apply the powder with
O f the a ff ected porti o ns
a so f t cloth or powder pu ff "
P ow d ered alum V2 ounce ; pow d ere d bo ric acid V2
o u nce ; o i l o f e u calyptus 2 0 d rops ; subnitrate o f b ismuth
I ounce ; O il O f verbena o r o range 5 drops
F or a refreshing bat h in mi d summer this lotion either
sprinkle d freely into the bath o r splashe d upon the body by
handfuls immediately a fter leaving the bath is my ch o ice
among a score O f such recipes
S trong v inegar 2 00 g r ams ; tincture o f benzoin 2 00
grams ; tincture o f red roses 2 00 g r ams
My fav orit e cold cream is this which I have p repa r ed
u nder my eye "
L anoline 10 grams ; oil o f almon d s 1 00 grams ; rose
w ate r 1 00 grams ; white wax 5 gram s ; spermaceti 5
grams ; o il o f ros e gera n ium 5 grams Melt the lanolin e
and white wax and spermaceti Add the oil o f almonds
Warm again and add the r osewater little by little stirring
a ll the time
T hi s is my favorite fac e powder
B est talcum powder V2 pound ; boracic acid V
dram ;
2
calcine m agnesia I d ram ; po w d ered Florentine orris root
1 5 o unc e
Thi s skin l ot i on I hav e u sed in the summer with m u ch
I hav e foun d it co oling and
b ene fi t t o m y complexion
healing
B itter almon d water 6 ounces ; orange flower wate r 4
I dram
o unces ; glycerine 2 ounces ; bo r acic acid
This is excellent fo r sunburn "
S we et milk I teacupful ; j uice o f I lemon Squee ze the
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T H E CA R E O F
TH E
C O M PL E XIO N
19
j uice o f the lemon into the milk and let it stand in a cool
place u ntil it curdles On retiri n g apply the mixt u re to the
face with a Silk sponge o r a bit o f cotton
A face bath every night o f buttermilk is help ful L ike
the p r eceding it should be washed o ff with tepid water after
it has been on the face for a hal f hour I f the sunburn
is deep and obstinate better try on e o f the milk baths sev
eral times a day
Another good treatmen t f or sunburn is the ap p lication
o f a sti ff paste made o f Fuller s earth and rosewater
This is a cooling fac e lotion p reventive and cure as well
O f sunbu r ned skin
O range flower water 2 o u nces ; rosewater 2 ounces ;
tinctu r e o f benzoin V2 ounce ; borax 1 % drams
F o r freckles this simple preparation is o n e o f th e best I
have ever known
Horsera d ish root I ounce ; borax ( po wdered ) 2 drams ;
hot wate r 1 pint
This m o re complex mixture is e ff ect iv e fo r blackheads
an d tan as well as fre c kles "
Ammonia water I ounce ; bay rum I ounce ; rosewater
1 ounce ; glycerine
ounc e ;
1 ounce ; pow d ere d borax
distille d water 10 ounces
F o r the co r nerstone o f the care o f m y c omplexion I d e
pend upon the body bath We who would be beautiful get
ma n y hi n ts from o u r physician who is himsel f no t at all
beautiful but w ho i f w e O b ét him can make us so He
”
”
talks about local treatment an d general treatment
and he tells yo u that in most cases general treatment is far
more thorough than local
That is the reason that I d epend upon the bo d y bath
more than anything else for my care o f the complexion
It is general t reatment while massage an d the applicatio n
of lotions an d c r eam s are local treatment B ot h are nee d
ful b u t the daily body bath i s indis p ensabl e
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MY
20
S ECRET S
OF
BE AU T Y
To make the bath tonic stimulant and agreeable I have
made many experiments The most successful I have
foun d to be this
To a tub hal f full o f water add o ne pound o f table salt
and one pint o f violet ammonia
The bath should be p repared ten minutes before o n e
e nters it for the salt sh o uld be thoroughly dissolved and the
ammonia Should have been thoroughly mixed with the bath
This I vary by the use of o ne pound o f se a salt and h al f
a pint o f aromatic vinegar
These p reparations being of an astringent nature Should
not be used every d ay Three times a week are enough
for their tonic effect For a s o othing bath I leave o ff the
salt and pou r into the tub
One ounce of tincture o f benzoin an d tw o bath pastilles
s cented to you r taste but never colored
This is the way I t ake it As soo n as I rise in the mo rn
ing I plu n ge int o my te p i d bath The tempe ratu r e I take
mysel f to be sure that my maid has made no mistake
When t he therm ometer which I thrust into the wate r regis
ters about 98 deg r ees Fahre n heit I am satisfied I f higher
it is too warm I f lo w er it is too cold
I permit mysel f j ust twenty minutes in the tub More
than that is weakening While in the tub I play about as
j oyfully as a young porpois e I plu nge and flounder a n d
toss up a sh ower o f water with my hands ; for to lie lazily
in a tub of wate r is to i nvfie rheumatism and neuralgia
I rub upon the brush quantities of the purest scented soap
I can get I try first this then that soap I am always
I scrub
t rying to find something I like better than the last
—
my body vigo rously
as vigorously as the women o f the
Loire p o und their clothes upo n the stones o n the river
I r ise streami n g with rills o f soapy water and take a
cold shower bath upon my shoulders Perhaps I use the
hose a ttached to th e bath Perhap s I catch the water as it
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S EC R ET S
MY
22
O F BE AU T Y
While I have been in the tub I have no t washed my face
It is now to have its first bath The bath is still not a
liquid one It is o f cold cream I give you here one of
my favorite recipes
Rosewater 5 0 0 grams ; o i l o f sweet almon d s 5 00 grams ;
white beeswax 2 0 grams ; spermaceti 2 0 grams ; o il o f rose
g
r
ams
3
All these articles shoul d be absolutely p u re I f you do
not trust your druggist send them to a chemist to be a n
It is expensive but it never pays to econo mize in
alyz e d
the complexion L et me tell yo u how to p repare the col d
cream
P lace the beeswax an d the spermaceti in a steamer The
steamer should not be placed upon the stov e for the fire
woul d be too harsh for it and would taint the cream with
its odo r s P lace the steamer instead in a p an o f hot water
and let the mixture be gently heated With a long handled
wooden spoon stir in sl o wly the o i l o f sweet almonds
Drop the rosewater little by little into the mixture an d stir
again When it is thoroughly mixed pour it into a st one
j ar or a china v essel and when it has co oled add three
drops o f oil of rose I f you use the o i l o f rose be fore the
mixture has cooled the pe r fu me will evaporate
Y ou will have when you have done this an o u nce less
t han a pound o r fi fteen ounces of absolutely pure cold
cream which will last for many months if not wasted
I massage my face sitting be fore the mirror o f my dress
ing tab le This I hav e foun d is far better than the lazy
way of massaging it while in a reclining position I want
light for massage I want a stream o f it over my shoulder
my le ft shoulder pre ferably falling upon the mirror and
showing me any line that I migh t have acquire d since the
morning be fore S itting there be fore the mirro r I give
my face vigorous inspection I mercilessly scrutinize it
Wh ere v er there i s the slightest tracery u pon the smooth
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THE
CARE OF T H E C O M PL E XI O N
23
sur face upon that spot I concentrate I massage my f ace
fo r ten min u tes always keeping in min d the p u rpose o f the
ma ssage
That is th at wrinkles are cause d by d e f ecti v e circulation
in o ne spo t and that the way to remov e them is to increas e
the circulation in that spot S ending a f resh su p ply o f
bl ood to the s u nken region will tend to fill o ut and plump it
Theref o re I c o ncentrat e o n the region from the corners
o f the lips to the nost r ils that region where the ugly diag
onal lines come and hi n t of ill temper o r illness or o ld age ;
o n the space between the eyebrows where t he lines o f worry
form ; o n the area about the outer corners o f the eyes an
area corrugated by too much laughte r ; all these an d the r est
o f the face I massage by q uick light pats o f t he c u shions
—
light but fi rm
o f the ends o f the fi nge r s
Always with a motion round and round A lengthwis e
motion causes the muscles to s ag an d pulls the skin loose
from the muscles I t is v ery ba d A fter the rotary move
ment I go o v er the face with quick light but stin ging slaps
With a square o f thin so f t linen I remo v e any surplus o f
grease that has not been absorbed in the pores
For the Skin that bec omes overheate d and looks f everish
after massage this cooling soothing lotion may be used
Extract o f violet 3 5 0 grams ; extrac t o f rose 3 5 g r ams ;
tincture o f orris 80 grams
Dashed upon the face a f ter th e morning massage it i s
d eliciously cooling an d re f reshing I f you d o not care fo r
the liquid face bath fl u ffing daintily ove r the face a pow d e r
pu ff d ipped in rice powder is sufficient
To the win d ow I go h and mirror in han d p fo r a f urth er
inspect ion be fore applying the rice p ow d er I see perhaps
”
acne a bit o f what yo u in this country call blackhea d
at the side o f my nose I hasten to remove it How "
Not by p r ess mg it out N o no That leaves an ugly hole
in the Skin It i s a m u tilation o f the f ace N o ; I sear ch
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MY
24
f or
S ECRET S O F
BEAU T Y
match or a woo d en too thpick T h en I tak e from my
—
toile t table one of tw o preparations
each is good "
Rosewater 72 wineglass peroxide o f hy d rogen
wine
glass S hake well in a glass Dip the match into t he mix
t u re an d press the dampened e nd upon the blackhead I t
does no t remove it but cleanses its color to white
Or I us e t his which I think is milder
Rosewater 2 3 wineglass ; ammonia 1 3 wineglas s
S hake well together in a tumbler Dip the end o f the
toothpick o r match in it and use as other p reparation L ike
the other this cleanses without r emovi n g the acne
I f my plans fo r the day include a r ailway j ourney o r an
a u tomobile spin I p repare my complexion fo r the o rdeal
Be fore goi n g o u t I massage th e face again with cold cream
and dust it once more with rice p o wder This fo rt i fi es the
face for the whirlwind o f sm o ke o r dust it encounters
When I return to tho r oughly cleans e the face I steam it
Into my stationary wash bowl I pour two quarts o f boiling
water and one ounce o f tincture o f be n zoin I bend for
ward and place my face as close to this as p ossible I
—
w rap about my head a towel an d swathe the towel
a
big Turkish one
about my sh o ulders and the edge o f the
bowl so that no stea m can escape S o I remain until I
f eel that my face drips with pers p iration and until I am
nearly su ffocated by steam Then s itti n g up straight I
dab o ne o f the linen squares about m y f ace an d cool it by a
han d ba th o f eau de c o logn e
O r if the j ourney has been taken in summer and I am
tanne d o r f reckle d in consequence I apply this
One wineglass full o f rosewat er ; fifteen dro ps peroxi d e
o f hy d r ogen
I bathe the fac e with this preparation and leave it on the
skin fo r fi fteen minutes then remove it by massaging the
fac e with t h e c ol d crea m for which I hav e given a p re
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CARE
THE
OF
TH E C O M PL E XIO N
25
scriptio n o r with rosewater The peroxide is drastic and
should only be used in emergencies
And now the day i s passed and I am ready to retire
Again I think of my complexion F or the fi rst time that
day I really wash my face
First it has its bath o f soap and water I use plenty o f
soap but make a lather o f it in the bowl instead o f placing
it di r ectly on my face P lungi n g my hands int o the soapy
water I bathe my face with the palms o f my hands
Never d o I use anything else A sponge o r a cloth is too
harsh There is nothi n g so fter than th e palms o f a woman s
ha n ds They are softer than Silk and because they are
the so ftest obj ects I know I bathe the delicate Skin o f the
face with t hem After the warm water face bath I rinse
the bowl and the face with cool not cold wate r Cold water
is too severe
Then again the ten minutes o f massage with the col d
c r eam Then to bed I feel that I have done for my c om
plexion the duty I o w e it I ow e it but o ne mo r e to sleep
for eight hours in a roo m where the wi n dows are as wi d e
open as possible my bed being o u t o f the draught a n d my
self well cove r ed with bla n kets for to be cold is to commit
a c r ime against the complexion
O n e other precautio n I may take i f the mo r ni n g i n s p ec
tion has revealed that there are pimples o n the face It
is a remedy most Simple but e fficacious
In the mor n i n g bath a handful o f sta r ch B e
fore r et i r
ing a p aste spread over the face and made thus "
O n e tumble r half full o f water The remain d er filled
with starch S tir to a thick pa ste
Eve r y woman who gives her complexion the right care
has to spend many hours at he r dressi n g table This
should be low S O that y o u can s i t be fo r e it with comfort
It Should be wide and lo n g an d flat so that it ma y hold
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M Y SE C R ET S
26
OF
B EA U T Y
all o f those accesso r ies o f the toilet which a woman wants
within reach as She sits before her mirror
It Shoul d have a large mirror a n d a good on e a j ust
mirror but not a me r ciful o n e that will reveal ever y
blemish but will not exaggerate it The faults o f o u r faces
trouble us enough withou t being exaggerated by ou r mir
ro rs
Money spent fo r a good mirror will yield you a good
return in h o nestly Showing you h ow y ou l ook I f you
k n ow exactly how you look you c a n build upon that
foundation o f knowledge a new a n d better appeara n ce
Bei n g sure that your mi r ror is reliable place it where it
will have the best light in the room This should be o p
i
t
s
e
i
f
possible
but
certai
n
ly
near
to
the
window
The
o
p
best light fo r writing i s t he best light for dressi n g The
light s houl d fall over the left sh oulder A rrange your
electric lights o r candles o r lamps o r gas j ets whatever are
your lighting facilities so that the light will fall in that
direction Don t dress by a poor light any more than yo u
w ould rea d o r write by a poor light
The mirror should be as la rge as possible and should be
adj ustable Attached to support s on the table it sh o uld be
easily swung back a n d fo r th according to the angle o f
V iew you wish to get upon yourself
Even i f the table be o f the plainest sort o f home ma n u
facture the table an d mirror f r ame should be white The
e ffect o f dai n tiness an d clea n liness is given by a white
tab le a n d mirror frame S pots an d stains can b e mo r e
easily removed from it S ome you n g women have a fa n cy
for drapi n g their d r essi n g tables in muslin o r silk tied bac k
with ribbo n s o r i n silk finished by tassels o f the same shade
each t o match the curtai n s at the wi n dows a n d the dra
r
of
the
bed
Perso
n
ally
I
p
r
e
fer
the
white
pai
n
ted
o
r
i
e
e
s
p
e n amele d dres sing table to a n y other D r ape r ies are ele
gant but besi d es their elegance I always see their oth er
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T HE CA R E O F
T H E C O M P L E XIO N
—
n
i
ifi
a
c
S gn
c
e
27
that o f d ust t raps In furnishing rooms I
t he money into rich woo d s an d r ugs and shun
.
try to p u t
d rape ries
I f the owner s means permit it a duplex or t riple mirror is
better than a single one I would allow the young w o man
at her toilet literally to s e e hersel f as others s e e her
S he
would study her p rofile and note whether her cheeks were
growing too plump o r too thin S he coul d s e e whether th e
line o f he r coi ffure is as becoming to the sides as in front
S he could study he r Shoulders and learn whether they are
too lean and need fattening o r too fat and r equire thin
ning Having once dresse d be fore a d uplex or t rip le mirro r
o
u
will
about
getting
se
t
o ne
y
But i f yours is a goo d si n gle mirror you can still make
your toilet v ery satis factorily with the aid o f a han d mirror
This will in a little longer time enable you to scrutinize
you r profile an d back successivel y instea d o f seeing all
three v iews of you r hea d at once
On most dressing tables we see a brus h and comb This
is the worst possibl e place fo r them Perhaps the y are
th ere merely for ornament to complete a ha n dsome ivory
o r silve r o r gold set and give the spectato r a sense o f the
completeness o f the t able furnishings But the comb and
brush that are in use Should be care full y kept in a d rawe r
o f the d ressing table o r in a toilet closet o r in one o f th e
medicine chests with which bathro oms are now supplied
After using them an d be fore putting them away he su r e
to cleanse them I f you neglect this you r combing and
br u shing might almost as well not have been d one for the
dust in you r hair has merely been shifted to your comb
an d brush and unless remove d by cleansing will be merely
transferred again to the hair
A bru sh can be cleaned by r ubbing it briskly u p on a
towel A comb can be wipe d th us o r with a piece o f tissue
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28
MY
S ECRET S
OF
BEAU T Y
paper B ut they should be dipped every fortnight at least
in soa py water into which a teaspoonful o f ammonia has
been sprinkled
The toilet table should be furnishe d als o with a tray o r
box containing the manicure utensils The orange wood
stick should be ready for cleansi n g the nails and pushi n g
back the skin that is a n xi o us to encroach upon the nails
In a drawer the r e should be a package o f medicated cotton
In a flask o n the toilet table there Should b e a little peroxide
”
o f hydrogen
This not to touch up the hair but to serve
two worthier purposes The ora nge wood stick wrap p ed
round with a bit o f the cotton and dipped into the p e roxide
—o r better the peroxide pou r ed upon i t — will quickly
cleanse the end o f the nail that has been darkened by dust
The per oxide is also valuable for a gargle or to give the
mouth one o f the fre q uently necessary baths
In o n e o f the little silver o r ivo ry or enameled boxes
o f which a toilet table cannot have t o o many there should
be a little powde r ed pumice sto n e When the daily s c r u n i t y
r eveals dark stains upon o r between the teeth apply this
pumice sto n e by di p ping an orange wood stick o r a hard
rou n d toothpick into it and gently rubbi n g with them the
stained surface Never use a toothpick for this purpose
for this would scratch the to o th and e ro de the e n amel
One o f the toilet bottles o n my dressi n g table I always
keep filled with rosewater This is soothing whe n the face
is fevered a n d is alway s grateful and healing to the skin
In anothe r bottle I keep a stro n g toilet vinegar t o i n hale
o r to sprinkle ab o ut my neck to revive me whe n I am
fatigued This vinegar beauties Of the time of Louis XV
used to b r ighten their complexions by S p r I nkli ng it upo n
their faces when they were fatigued o r i n disposed It is
composed o f
Honey 6 ounces ; vinegar made o f white wine 1 quart
isinglass 3 drams ; nutmeg V2 ounce ; shredded red sandal
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M Y S ECRET S O F
30
BEAU T Y
fac e creams was the inventi o n o f the famous Q ueen Eli z a
beth o f Hungary It is made like this "
Oil o f rosemary V2 ounce ; o i l O f lavender 2 drams ; oil
o f p etit g r ain 3 0 drops ; tincture of tolu 4 drams
orange
flower water V2 pint ; rectified spirits o f wine
pint
Mme S arah Bernhardt long used this Skin tonic It
was adapted to that w onderfully preserv ed woma n s natur
ally moist and oily Skin
F or a ski n that is dry a n d i n clined
to eruptive blemishes it might prove irritating It was
composed o f
B oili n g water I quart ; sea salt 5 ounces ; alcohol V2
pint ; spirits o f camphor 2 ounces ; spirits o f ammonia 2
ounces
This used by the beauties of the deposed S ultan s harem
gave a complexio n said to be the most beautiful in Europe
S weet almond o i l 4 ounces ; white wax 3 2 0 grains ; sper
mac e t i 3 2 0 grains ; powdered benzoin 1 00 grains ; tincture
6 0 grains ; pulverized rice 3 2 0 grains
o f amberg r is
Adelina Patti whose complexion has survived her voice
w as lo n g presumed because o f someone s misquotation o f
her wo r ds to n ever use soap The truth is as I very well
k n ow that she used a mild soap every night to wash
her face be fore retiring S he insists that her face could
not be really clean without it Duri n g the day she cleanses
it f r om dust by the u s e o f any pur e col d cream that is
available
M rs Langtry too is an advocat e of soap fo r the com
plexion A pure Simple soap She uses at least once a day
sometimes O ftener
Turkish women believe in the free u s e o f soap It was
a p r i n cess wife o f the physician o f the prese n t S ulta n
w ho gave me this recipe for a soap that will cleanse a n d
softe n a n d whiten the ski n The women o f the harem r e
gard it as the first aid to a beautiful complexion
S have very fine on e pound o f white oliv e ( Castile ) soap
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T HE
CAR E
OF
TH E
C O M PL E XIO N
"
1
3
P lace in a porcelain kettle covering it with col d water
,
.
’
When the soap has been softened by the heat an d mixe d
with the water stir into it O n e half po u nd o f oatmeal M ix
this well Wh en thoroughly blen ded take it O ff the stove
and when the mixtu re has cooled form with the hands
soap balls as l arge as a walnut Or the soap c an b e used
warm in its li qu 1d state
This f ace lotion is a favorite o f the h arem
f
O
I
lemo
n
s
glycerine
grams
cologne
water
uice
o
0
;
;
j
3
5
grams
Egyptian women believe t ha t th e face shoul d be bathed
three times a day with hot water The Chi n ese women
singularly produce the same eff e ct o f a smooth skin by the
use o f cold face baths The American habit o f cleansing
the face Simply by col d c r eam had its origin in India where
women clea n se the face with vegetable oils
A princess o f the Khedive s court in E gypt tol d me that
hot wate r ablutio n s foll o wed by an application o f this
liquid woul d keep any Skin fair a n d smooth Ce r tainly
the clear brown of her complexion was a recommendation
o f the habit
The reci p e is this "
Rose wate r 1 0 0 grams ; tincture o f benzoin 1 0 grams
The women o f Chi n a Turkey an d Egypt have faith in
the e fficacy o f the j uice o f the beet Wh ile in all those
cou n t r ies it is use d as a paint ma n y o f the women hav e
told me that they bath e their faces i n it for the tonic e ff ect
o f what they term the blood o f the beet
They then r e
move the stain with tepid water
Dust is o n e o f the wo r st enemies o f beauty It settles
in a dim dingy veil upon the face causing it to look ill
kept in a word dirty
To keep the face cleansed fro m dust keep always a bottle
O f olive o i l and a companion bottle o f witch hazel o n you r
dressing tabl e o r toilet Shel f
B efore g oing ou t pass a bit o f cotton o r a p iece o f soft
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S ECRET S O F
MY
32
BEAU T Y
linen that has been moistened in t he oil over the face
P rotect the face furthe r by d usting it with rice powder
Returning from o ut o f do o rs remov e the pow d er and
du st by washing the face with yet more olive oil applied in
the same way The danger o f t he olive o i l turn ing the
fo r that fea r exists in many minds influenced
skin yellow
by the adage Yell o w makes yellow
can b e removed
by adding to two ounces o f olive o i l on e hal f ounce o f
almond oil and twenty drops o f tincture o f be n zoin B e
f ore r etiring the face shoul d have another o f these o i l baths
unless you prefer to use the cold cream which is more u n
wieldy an d s o less quickly cleanses
S trong salt wate r o r a mixture o f bica rb o nate o f soda in
the proportions o f a teaspoo n ful o f bica rbo n ate o f so d a to a
glassful o f water are admirable throat cleansers
To keep the nails guiltless o f the gray o r black rim that
so o ff ends the Sight it is not e n ough t o wrap cotton about
the point o f an orange stick a n d remove the accumulated
dust The hands must be washed o ften even though not
s o iled to remove the d ust fro m b eneath the nails And if
the nails ha v e become ragged beneath the edge which causes
the dust to thickly and obsti n ately collect there thrust them
into soap j elly into which you have poure d a half dozen
drops o f ammonia o r into a cake o f soap well softened by
lying in the water and allow this to remain un d er the nails
fo r a few minutes to do the work o f cleansing
P e rhaps the skin o f you r face is very pale as though
every drop o f bloo d had been drained from it and the fact
that you r stock o f v igor is below par is shown b y the dry
texture and loose condition o f your skin
Refresh it by giving it a cologne bath P our a few drop s
o f cologne over a piece o f gauze and pat the face lightly
with it This will coax the blood quickly to the surface
Or soak a s quare piece o f flannel in olive oi l an d place it
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CAR E
THE
O F T H E C O M PL E X IO N
33
o v er the face The skin abso rbs this o il and in a sho r t
time looks much fresher
S hould you despite your tire d bloo d less aspect have to
be seen in public bathe the face in tepid water usi n g hand
fuls o f almond meal w et with a fe w drops o f benzoin i n
stead o f soap Then dash cold water upon the face This
soon calls back the color that has fo rsaken the visage
Many Englishwomen follow the se n sible practice o f giv
”
ing the face a d rink
For proo f o f the e fficacy o f this
carry to you r bathroom a droopi n g dying plant Turn
u pon it with t he rubber spray a Shower o f cool water
In
s t an t ly the fai n ting plant revives
Just as grateful a s was this plant fo r its needed d raught is
the skin that is parched in the first stage o f the dreaded
”
withering p rocess fo r its dri n k
The E n glish woman
closes her eyes holds he r breath and thrusts her face deep
into a bowl o f cool water S he keeps it thu s subme rged as
long as She is able Then raising her head she breathes
deeply an d again thrusts he r face into the water S he r e
peats this face drink five o r s i x times keeping he r face in
the water as long as her suspended b reath will permit
Wiping the moisture o ff with a soft cloth she is amazed
to s ee the response o f her complexion to the treatme n t
H er skin seems transformed f rom a b r ownish white parch
ment crossed and c riss crossed by the faint etchings that
po rtend wrinkles to a smooth pink and white silken surface
Your skin should be o n e o f the livest things in your e n
tire makeup y et i t i s that part o f you which o ftenest looks
lifeless A d ea d skin as specialists k n ow it is pale a n d
withered looking It is seamed with fine lines an d looks ab
s o lu t ely devoi d of moisture
There are many me thods o f remedying this regrettabl e
appearance which adds many years to a woman s apparent
age and which must by some means be avoide d
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MY
34
S ECRET S O F
BEAU T Y
The fu n d amental remedy is a change o f diet A fathe r s
advice in a recent play Eat two apples and d rink a g lass
”
o f water be fore go ing to bed
was laughed at as old
fashio n ed yet there i s no better beauty rule havi n g the ski n
in mind It gives nature p rompt and powerful aid in cleans
ing the interior O f ou r bodies and without this unclogge d
interior there can be no clear live skin A mottled pim
pled Skin is an i n fallible Sign of an u n clean i n terior
But the apples eate n at night are not enough D rink
lemon j uice slightly diluted with water in the morni n g
The j uice o f an entire lemon p r essed into the glass and
diluted with the same qua n tity o f water will cleanse the
stomach and aid in cleari n g the skin
A remedy for a dead looking mottled Skin is a teaspoon
ful o f grape j uice with the same quantity o f olive oil night
and morning
A French rem e dy for a fa d ed Skin is to eat a small plate
ful o f water cress with salt every day The beauties o f
the ha r ems o f Constantinople rely upon any green salad
eaten at breakfast with much salt for the same purpose
S ometimes these internal remedies must be supplemented
by external aids One of the best is t o moisten coarse
cornmeal with milk an d fi lli n g the hands with it scrub the
fac e ge nt l y y et with vigor The friction opens the po res
an d relieves the mu d dy looking skin o f the poison which
has choked them
A woman wh o s e skin at fi fty is as f r esh as a girl s tol d
me that she would as lie f retir e without saying her prayers
as without ironing her face with i c e This causes the
bloo d to fl ow to t he surface refreshing an d fe e ding the
skin
Col d cream is n ee d ful for most complexions but not fo r
A good test o f you r needs is to pat col d
e v ery o ne
cream into the skin and note whether it quickly ab sorbs it
If so the skin i s hungry and re q uires d aily feeding
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x
C A RE
T HE
OF
THE
C O M PL E XI O N
35
oil if secured i n its purest state is an admirable
Oliv e O i l feeds the Skin well but there is a deep
Skin foo d
r ooted obj ect ion to its t oo frequent u se becaus e it is charged
with making the skin yellow T he owner o f o n e o f the
best complexions I kno w a lovely French woman feeds
her Skin by nightly baths of the following "
Olive o i l 3 ounces ; almond o i l V2 ounce ; benzoin
ounce
In this case the olive oil s tendency to make the skin yel
low i f such a te n dency lies in this greatly remedial oil is
neutralized by the prese n ce o f the benzoin which is a
whitener The benz oin has still another O fli ce useful
to those whose skins have become flabby It is an ast r i n
gent d rawing the relaxe d skin u p into the d esired tigh t
ness
P rimarily the cause o f most facial blemishes is indigestion
To remove an e ff ect on e shoul d always try first to remove
t he cause
Most women hav e some form o f indigestion
an d it is due to o n e o r both o f two bad habits One is
eating harmful things The other is not drinking enough
C ocoanut
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vvat e r
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H ere are ten things I beg women neve r to eat " S ausages
d ried fish pies bo n bons puddings i c e cream b ee f except
when well roasted pork especially ham oysters u n less o ne
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is absolutely cert ain o f their freshness hot bread as
u sually made in America I am opposed to the practice of
d r i n ki n g ho t water Instead o f being an aid to digestion
it is a hindrance Granted a fter a heavy dinner when the
s ense o f overful n ess O ppresses us
a cup o f hot water
slowly sipped aids digestion But this should be used only
in emergencies The regular habit o f d ri n king a great
de al of hot water is ha r mful for when the stomach is
flooded with it the gastric j uices go o n strike F inding the
intru der s there they refuse to do their work and retire
A n d the hot w at e r is le ft t o d o the work ine ffectively an d
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MY
36
alo n e
one
S ECRET S O F
BEAU T Y
S o the hot water habit seems to me a distinctly ba d
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Light foods as chicken fresh fish beans spinach a n d
beets co n tai n i n g iron a n d stewed fruit slowly eate n and
well masticated are excelle n t for the complexion
Three quarts o f water a day should be d r u n k to keep o ne
well which state a good complexion always follows Drink
three tumblerfuls o n risi n g and while you a r e about your
mo rn ing toilet S ip do n o t gulp it If yo u are not thirsty
dri n k it anywa y That morni n g bath for the stomach is
imperative At each meal it is p ermissibl e to dri n k o n e
glass o f wate r slowly sippi n g it
For the work o f cleansi n g the s tomach I shoul d advise a
hal f teaspoo n ful of soda taken in a wine glass o f water
every mo r ni n g I f the disorder is very pr o nounced I sh o uld
repeat the dose after each meal fo r three o r four days
Bica r bonate o f soda like other good thi ngs may become a
bad thing if used in excess I am grate ful to t he Paris
pharmacist w ho gave me this warni n g
Pulverized charcoal is also an excelle n t c o rrective fo r
the stomach which is tired or rebellious One teaspoo n ful
every mo rn i n g and o n e after each meal is as good as a
broom in the stomach
L a rge red splotches appear upon the face sometimes
This lite r ally they
s eemi n g to try to burn their w ay out
are tryi n g to do An excess o f uric acid causes this co n
dition a n d it is best to consult a physician about a cure
If a consultatio n is n ot
fo r it is the pa r e n t o f rheumatism
conve n ient then diet diet diet
Eat no more f r uit in the morning E at it o n ly at n oo n
and night L et the breakfast be most Simple o f some
coarse ce r eal or c r usts o f coarse brea d ; and avoi d rare
meats especially beef
B u t a beauty complai n s that there are spots o n her face
a n d yet she must shine at a ball to morrow There is n o
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8
3
S ECRET S O F
MY
BE AU T Y
Bicarb onate o f so d a 3 6 grains ; distilled water 8 ounc es ;
e ssence o f roses 6 drops
I have seen pimples remov ed by a half dozen application s
o f bica r bonate of s od a dampened slightly and placed with
the tip o f the finger u p on the i rritated surface
Another Simple reme dy for splotches or pimples is this
B icarbonate o f soda 3 6 grai n s ; glycerine 1 d ram ; sper
mac et i oint ment 1 ounce
This shoul d be applied with absorbent cotton allowed to
remain o n the a ffecte d part for a quarter o f an ho u r and
remove d
For the blo tch e d condition o f the skin which is caus e d
by su n in summer an d win d i n winter if the skin be d elicate
I recommend this
Borax
dram ; glycerine 1 ounce ; elde r flower wate r
ounces
7
S teaming is o ften recomme n ded for cl eansing the face
I do no t u s e it because I think its tendency is to make the
skin to o delicate to d etach it from the muscles and to caus e
premature wri n kles
I am often asked how to remove moles I answe r D o
n ot remove them
In the time o f Marie Antoinet te they
”
were regar d ed as marks o f beauty Let the m alone
But
i f anyone insists I s ay then go to a physician an d be by
him guided P robably he will remove them by electricity
—
but I am afraid
a fraid
In d igestion is the great foe to the complexion within
The foe to be feare d with out is the careless u s e of powders
P ow der j udiciously use d especially at night is an ai d to
be auty Its u se in the evening is an indication o f r efi ne
ment An d a dainty pow d er flu ffe d upon the face befor e
going out especially i f cold cream has fi rst been applie d i s
an excellent protection from the col d or heat o r from a
high win d But it is absolutely necessary that the powde r
I t pro
b e pur e
R ic e po w d e r is h arml es s to the skin
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T HE
C A RE
OF
TH E
C O M PL E XI O N
39
complexion as wo ul d a fine v e il A n d it r emoves
shi ne upo n the ski n that m ak es the best
the d i sgr ee ab le
room
d
woman
look
vul
a
r
at
night
e
g
g
This powder I ha v e found most v aluabl e
Rice flour 6 ounces ; rice starch 6 ounces ; c arbonate o f
magnesia 3 ounces ; boric acid 1 V2 ounces ; p owdered orris
root 1 % drams ; essenc e o f bergamot 1 0 d rop s ; essence
o f C i t ron
1 5 d r op s
t ec t s the
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W
HO
TO M
CH A P TE R
A" E
Y OU R
II
N E C"
BE
A UT I F U L
T
is a most decided advanta ge to be born with a beauti
ful neck as it is to be bo r n with beautiful features a
beautiful figure o r beautiful hair It is o ne o f the co mp en
s a t i o n s o f being overplump that the woman o f too ample
li n es has a beautiful th r oat a n d arms Wh ile the thin
woman whose features are well defi n ed not being bla n keted
by superfluous layers of flesh a n d whose figure is more ele
gant because no t swathed by adipos e tissue has as a rule a
scrawny neck and whip like arms
The neck to be beautiful must be neither too long nor
too short to o fat n or too lean It must be shapely ; that
is evenly developed T he Skin must be soft a n d white
T he le n gth o f the neck is o n e o f the fixed quantities o f
nature O n e ca nn ot change it but we can learn the lesso n
o f illusion from the stage a n d t ry to make it seem longer
The best aid to this is the po i se o f the
o r sho r ter than it is
head The woman whose chin is carried w ell up whose
poise o f the head is habitually high gives the impression
that her neck is at l east a n inch l o nger than it is Als o
the manner o f the trimmi n g o f her hi gh neck gown a n d
the line at which the lo w c ut gown is fi n ished determin e
whether the neck loo ks lo n ger tha n it is o r shorter
I f th e neck is short the collar shoul d b e o f soli d colors
The low necked
o r be trimme d with perpendicular li n es
gown should be cu t lower than that of the woman with the
l o ng neck for the neck is more depende n t upo n its s u r
roun d ings for its e ff ect than i s any other part o f the bo dy
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4
M AKE
TO
Y O U R N ECK
BEA U T I FU L
1
4
I f there is a wide sweep o f the shoulders the long line f rom
the poi n t o f the shoulder to the chin will lend itsel f to the
neck and make the neck seem longer than it would i f the
gown were merely one o f the collarless sort with a line o f
cloth defi n ing where the neck actually begins
I f the n eck is long the problem is an easie r o ne especially
at times when much d ressi n g fo r the neck is in vogue
Even an ostrich s neck could be so wrapped about with
laces with collars a n d ties of a contrasting colo r which
would cut the apparent length that it woul d b e f ar less con
I should s ay it could be made to
s p i c u o u s tha n unadorned
look a foot shorter The human neck can be d ressed to
make a p ropo rtionate change o f appearance The ex
t r emely low d écolletage is less becoming to the woman with
the long neck I f S he must a d opt it o r thinks s he must
s he should wear he r j ewels o r a band o f ribb o n about he r
n eck to make her neck see m shorter
The drooping Ma
donna poise of the head may be becomi n gly a ffected by the
woman with the long neck especially when sitti n g for her
photographs
The neck I have be fo re said must be neither to o fat
n o r too lean
T o correct either to o mu ch o r too little flesh
upon the neck w e must summon the aid o f that lieutenant
to beauty massage On the beautiful neck the flesh
is eve n ly distributed The neck Should be save fo r the
two parallel li n es about an inch apart which encircle
the neck and are seen o n the necks even o f babes
perfectly smooth I f the flesh be uneven pe r sistent skill
ful a n d ge n tle massage should redist r ibute the disproport ion
ate bulk o f flesh
The r e is always a possibility that the neck will be flat in
f r ont and display thick layers o f fat at the sides a n d back
This can be corrected by patie nt a n d careful massage The
front o f the n eck Should be made plumpe r by massage
Olive o i l o r a pu r e cold cream should b e freely rubbe d int o
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M Y S ECRET S O F
42
BEA U T Y
the skin by the first three fingers o f each hand m assaging
first on the right side o f the n eck with the right ha n d then
o n the le ft wit h the left hand
then with both ha n ds to
gether The motion should be a rotary o n e always the best
movement for rebuildi n g tissue because it induces circula
tion which feeds the starved atrophied portions
To r educe th e bulk o f the back and Side o f the neck a
reducing lotion should be applied by long swe eping d own
ward strokes the e ff ect o f which str o kes is to melt the flesh
downw ard i nto the larger masses o f flesh on the shoulders
A lotion I have k n own to be used with success for the
melting awa y o f t oo ponderous flesh ab ou t the neck is
thi s "
Tincture o f io d ine 3 0 minims ; iodi d e o f potassium 60
grains ; hyposulphite o f soda 2 0 grains ; distille d water 7
ounces ; aniseed water 1 70 minims
B e careful no t t o tamper wit h and so enlarge the large
gla n ds I n t he nec k Enlarging them may permanently dis
figure a beautiful neck They are the danger points o f the
manipulation It is they and t he gorged veins that give to
a neck that age d withere d app earance which we d esc r ib e
”
by the word ropey
Once these glands are enlarged and
the veins swollen ther e is no ar t in beauty lor e t o diminish
them Perhaps a physician can reduce their size b u t I hav e
never k n ow n it to be achieved
F o r t he
aged neck there is almost no hop e Mme
S a r ah B ernhardt r ealized this and while c ombating all the
other sign s of her increasing years yielded to the demands
o f the neck that was no longe r young an d covered it T he
colla rless gown is not fo r her Always she wears a high
n ecked gown o r i f circumstances require a costume d é
co llet é she wears a ribb on o f v elvet o r a collar o f j ewel s
ab out her throat
F o r b at tling again st the agei ng neck I ca n give no b et ter
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M A KE
TO
Y O U R N ECK B E A U T I FU L
43
recip e than this fo r a massage cre am which should be
plenti fu ll y a p plie d ni ght an d morning "
f
o
ounces
m
u
tton
tallow
pound
tinct
u
re
1
Glycerine 5
;
;
ben z oin 2 d rams ; spirits of campho r 1 dram ; pow d ered
alum V2 dram ; orange fl o wer water I dram ; Russian
isinglass 2 ounces
I f the neck is thin b u t the v eins an d glan d s a r e not en
The skin mus t be fe d b y cold creams
larg ed ther e i s hop e
m
o
e
the
circulation
promoted
by
massag
The
rotar
y
an d
tion with the first thre e fi ngers o f each han d is the de
sirable one Fifteen minutes Should be spent night and
morning in this massage O ne nourishing massage cream
especially excellent f or the neck is this
O il o f sweet almon d s 10 grams ; lanolin 1 5 grams ;
tannin V2 gram
A success ful fattening cream for the neck cont ains
Alcohol ( 9 5 per cent ) 2 0 grams ; lar d o r cocoa butter
100 grams ; essence o f rosemary 12 d rops ; essence o f he r
gamo t 12 d rops
A thir d an d most important essential is t h at the skin o f
T o s ecu re this effect o n e must
t he ne c k be white and so ft
”
as you s ay in America
start r ight
First prevent stains
upon the nec k
A staine d neck i s a l ways a revo l ting sight
A dark
shadow y rim a b out the neck may have been c ause d by dark
colla r s an d ther e may hav e been valiant e fforts to remove it
but if th e y hav e not been successful I beseech you wear only
high neck e d collars u ntil the s tai n is removed The casual
o bs e r v e r at a d inner or a b all will mak e no allowance for the
cause the stain communicating collar o f colored net o r some
other fabric To him y ou r neck will be soiled That i s all
and that is very much
T o prev e nt such stain s avoi d w e aring d ark col o rs next to
the neck
I f the d ark collar is unavoidabl e then line it with
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S ECRET S O F
MY
44
BEAU T Y
something so ft an d white old muslin o r part o f an O ld silk
handkerchief
But ha ving a cq uire d the d ark sha d owy look a bo ut the
n eck that is s o repellent remove it as so o n a s possible
A
thorough sponging with peroxide o f hydrogen full strength
followed immediately by another bath o f ros e water I have
found excellent
Or there may be f r e quent baths with this p reparation
which is admirable for bleaching "
Glyceri n e I ounce ; rosewater I ou n ce ; carbolic acid 10
d r ops ; tincture o f benzoin 1 0 drops
This home remedy is useful when less drastic re medies
are n o t at han d
One—
half lemo n ; o ne small tumbler o f water S quee z e
the lemon j uice into the glass B ath e the neck freque n tly
with t he mixture
For those and there are man y among them experts who
do not wish to use t he peroxide o f hyd r ogen full strength
I woul d r ecommend "
Peroxide o f hydrogen V2 wineglass w i t chhaz el
wi neglass
To bleach a neck that is too oily this used once a day fo r
t hree successive days is hel p ful
Rosewate r V2 wineglass ; ammonia 5 drops U se this
sp ari ngly fo r the action of ammonia upon the skin is to
make it exceeding ly dry
The woman who woul d hav e a beautiful n eck m u st co n
si de r it ev e n in r epos e S he should nev e r u s e a high pillow
pre f e rably no p i llo w at all F o r whe n the head rests U po n
the p illo w the chin falls u po n the breast The muscles o f
the neck are cont racted w rinkle s are form e d and muscles
become flabby L ying on the back is th e best po sture for
slee p ing The muscles of the neck are thus given fu ll p lay
an d rest
Many times I am asked If you had a mole on t he neck
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M Y S E C RET S
46
OF BEAU T Y
E qu al parts o f lemon j u ice an d water
Wate r
pint ; ammonia I d ram
St ill an o ther reme d y is to s crub the nec k with a s o ft com
ple xi on brush dip pe d int o a wa r m l ather o f C astile s oap with
a few dr o ps of ammo n i a a d ded
In summer when the neck beco mes ta nned an d blistere d
by t he sun massage it with a pu re cold cream and bathe it
fr eq uently with a mild s ol u tio n o f p eroxi d e o f h yd r ogen
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C HA P TE R
T H I N GS
III
T O DO F O R TH E E Y E S ,
N OS E
EA R S A N D
the bo d y the beauty o f th e
eyes depends upon their health and their health d e
pends u po n care T he eyes ha v e two arch enemies They
To keep the eyes beautifu l on e mus t
a r e fatigu e an d d u s t
avoid the one and sh u n the other
D o n ot read t o o much
I ne v er read at night Artificial
ligh t destroys the luster o f the eyes At nigh t w e con
a n d the strain
s tant ly strain t he eyes to g e t more light
makes a network o f fine lines about the eyes N ever read
o n the train
no matter how lo ng the j ou rney It is five
days from New York to S an Francisco and many perso n s
make that j ourney several ti mes a year But if they h ave
regard fo r the beauty o f their eyes they take n o magazines
o r books on the train with them and they buy none o n the
way It is quite as goo d a men tal exercise to sp end the
time o n a railroad j ou r ney thinking o f what you have read
an d o f what you have learned in reading the book o f lif e
as to read somethi n g new and it is a thousand times better
fo r the eyes
At its best a railwa y j ourney is a seve r e tax
upo n the eyes as upon the ne r v es an d the complexi o n I
spe n d as much o f the time as possible in a reclining posi
tio n with my eyes closed
When the j our n ey is at its en d I send at once fo r a solu
t ion o f adre n alin
The proporti o n s and qua n tity o f the
solution I always leave to the d r uggist I would not take
the resp onsibility o f prescribing the amount for mysel f and
s o will not for an o ther
Adrenalin is derived from the
S with all other parts
of
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47
MY
8
4
S ECRET S O F
BEAU T Y
supra renal glands o f animals A solution o f it applied
frequently to the eyes rests the m a fter a seve re strain I
know o f nothing more r efreshi n g and immediately r eju v en at
in g but I insist that it must be used only after a physicia n
has prescribed or by the advice o f the pharmacist w ho will
tell you what under the ci r cumsta n ces is a safe solution
I said I d o n ot read too much An hour a n d a hal f a
day and that at t w o o r three Sitti ngs instead o f c o n
t i nuo u sly is e n ough
Close study o f a p ri n ted page is dan
h
r
to
eyes
and
to
other
attractive
features
of
e
u
s
t
e
a
o
g
woman s face
Fo r the sake o f the beauty o f the eyes
and there i s n o
greater beauty — I utter now a di ff ere n t war n i n g I f you
would have beautiful eyes don t dri n k too much A glass
and a half o f wine at a meal is enough A pint of wi n e a
day is all that any woman who wishes to be beautiful should
h
e
r
mit
hersel
f
and
that
only
if
s
e
has
been
accustomed
t
o
p
drinking wine T oo muc h drinking makes the eyes blood
shot It co n gests the bloo d vessels i n them causi n g dis
figuring little red streaks in the whites of the eyes It causes
also a congested condition that i n fl ame s the li n i ng o f the
lids
Wh en the eyes are ti r ed the thing to do is to rest Go
to y ou r r oom Loosen you r cl othes Lie upo n your back
and place upon you r eyes a hot compress Make the com
p ress i n this way "
O n e gill rosewater ; one gill witch hazel Heat this mix
ture and when it is nearly at the boiling point dip i n to it a
ba n dage o f soft li n en o r o f absorbe n t cotto n a n d press this
upon the eyes
S o metimes a f r iend o f mine points to her yellow eyeballs
”
"
d
and says
What shall I o to make them white
I
a n swer "
You a r e bilious You must cleanse the liver
and the stomach A physician o r a pha r macist can best
tell you ho w to do this But if you d o not wish to go to
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THE
F OR
EYE S EAR S
,
A ND NO S E
49
either try a semi —
fast Eat only hal f as much at each meal
as you have been doi n g and drink water freely We need
three quarts o f water a day to keep the body in health If
the system has reached such a condition that the eyeballs
a r e yello w then that quantity should b e increased by o ne
hal f Water drinking is a necessity that should become a
fixed habit
Every morning at rising w e Should d r ink at least tw o
glassfuls o f cold but not ice wate r I f the stomach is ve r y
delicate it would be better that the water were warm If
cold it should be sipped not tossed o ff at a draught because
by the time it reaches the stomach it should be as warm
as the lining o f the stomach its el f t o p revent chilli n g that
import ant organ Throughout the day a good deal could
be dru n k a n d the remai n de r shoul d be dru n k in a leisurely
way at night It is well u n der the most ordinary ci r
c u mst an c es to drink two or three glasses o f water before
retiring F o r the woman with the yellow eyeballs a hal f
teaspoon ful o f bicarbo n ate o f soda o r o f pulv erize d charcoal
could be tak en to advantage I n a glass o f the water at m o rn
ing or night Also I should advise for this w o man exercise
o u t o f doors
For the d aily ca re o f the eyes there s h o u ld be two baths
The bo d y must have its bath The face must have its clea ns
ing Why not the eye espec ially as the eye with its thick
lid and the fringe o f eyelashes is a dust trap and the
slightest s p eck of dust all o wed to remain b e neath the lid
may cause infla mmation o f the lid an d irritation O f the eye
F o r the eye s da i ly bath I o ffer yo u the choice o f s everal
lotions My favo rite is "
Te n ounce s purest rosewate r A p p ly wit h an eyecup
turni ng the eyecu p upside d o wn so that the hal f O pen eye
is completely washed by the contents of the cup Hold it
thus for thirty seconds o r if not uncom fortable a full
min u te Throw away this rosewater Rinse the glass an d
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MY
0
5
S ECRET S O F
BEA U T Y
give the eye a seco n d bath I f the eyes are irritate d the
bath can be repeate d severa l times Ordinarily a bath in
the morning on rising an d another at night o n retiring are
enough
One ounce eld erflo wer w ater S om e o f my fri en d s w h o
have beautiful eyes prefer this to rosewater It is e qually
goo d Apply it in the same way
Another excellen t eyebath is
One half ounce witch hazel ; o ne half ounce distilled
water S hake well in bottle and apply with an eyecup
One other bath is ex cellent "
S ix d r ops boracic acid ; o n e wineglass distilled water
S h ake well b efo re ap plying
S alt has its adv ocates Certainly salt is stimulating to
tired eyes but I would only u se it in emergencies Then
o nce a day be fore retiring as follows
A pinch o f salt i n an eyecu p of cold water U se with
the eyecup Also bath e t he lids with a bit o f cotton d ipped
int o the salt water
A bath o f bora x water is benefi cial and has the ad
vantage o f always being convenient Even whil e t r av eli n g
one may carry a b ox o f bor ax F uthermor e it is safe b e
cause borax will only for m a four per cent solution that is
fou r per cent o f it only will b e absorb e d by wat e r A
I f the e y e s he deli cat e or the
b orax bath is s t ren gthen ing
p e rson so p rej udiced aga inst experim en ts th at she is no t
wi lling to i n troduce thi s substanc e into the eye s, a s ilk s po nge
or a so ft cloth dippe d into bo r ax w at e r an d presse d u p on
the e yelids i s effi c ac i ou s soothing
The old fashioned home remedy o f cold tea l eav e s p ressed
upon the lids has value no t from the t ea leave s intri nsica lly
but from the cool moist contact Cloths dipped in water are
quite as goo d
Whatever re d uc es the fe v e r and inflammation in eyelids
make s f or the b eauty o f the eyes A nd her e a word o f
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E Y E S , E AR S A ND N O S E
THE
F OR
1
5
warning I f the lids bec o me granular that is i f tiny lumps
form inside the li n i n g o f the eyelid d o n t attempt to cur e
the m y oursel f Giv e yoursel f over to a physician s care
There i s nothing more disfigur i n g o r dangerous t o the
eyes than t hese irritating little lumps They are caused
by eye strain and i f the strain b e removed the gra n ules are
likely to disappear I f however the cas e is far advanced
i t needs medical treatment
A s the greatest enemy o f the bea u ty o f the eyes is strain
I f my eyes were l o sing their
so the greatest f r iend is rest
brightness I should first O f all rest B u t rest may be take n
”
to use the d r uggist s phrase in small doses
I f I am too
muc h engaged to go into a dark ro om and rest fo r d ays I can
at least rest my eyes by taking extra Sle ep From the stand
poi n t O f beauty every o n e shoul d retire b efore twelve to
give the eyes sufficient r est
And t he re are twenty chances a d ay t o cl o s e the eyes for
a few minutes S ay five minutes at a time and twenty
ti es There w e have o n e hundred minutes Those
chances can be taken o n the S ubway the L trains or in
the surface cars O ften have I seen a man o n a trai n a d
mire a young woman fo r the demu r e d owncast glance o f her
eye H e thinks that is o ne o f her i n dividual lures S illy
man The girl does n t know he exists
S he is merely tak
ing an eye r est When you a r e bathing your face when
you are ma ssaging it when you are brushi n g y o u r hair
—
while you a r e bei n g manicured o r pedicured
there are
cou n tless O pp ortunities to give the eyes the rest they need
Try it for three days and the results will ama z e yo u
Never use preparations in o r upon the eyes unless you
h ave them analyzed
Do not count th e cost o f analysis
What are a few American dollars or French francs o r
Ita lian lire compared with beauty "
Neve r u se any toi let articl e without such analysis And
e ven a fter yo u ha v e use d the preparation fo r a time it is
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S E C R ET S O F
MY
2
5
BEA U T Y
wise to ag ain submit it to another a n alysis fo r when an
article has secured i ts vogue th r ough excellence I am so r ry
t o say that m anu facture r s o fte n times i n c r ease t hei r p r ofits
by cheape n ing the ingredients and adulte rating the articl e
The sur r oundings of the eyes are as importa n t as the eyes
themselves Keep li n es away from the eyes by keepi n g the m
well rested Also massage lightly about t hem for four o r
five minutes Never lo n ger because to o much massage will
tire the exceedi n gly delicate muscles about the eyes a n d
cause them to s ag Massage them at retiring with any good
cold c r eam
Rub wit h light rotary motion with the tips o f the seco n d
and thi r d fingers outward a n d away from the co r ne r s o f
the eyes With the same fi ngers stroke the muscles that
lie along the upper edge o f the cheekbo ne The st r oke
should be a slow sweepi n g o n e from the lower co rn e r o f
the eye to the edge o f the hair li n e Never touch the soft
flabby skin beneath the eyes It will make w r inkles A
third valuable stroke is above a n d alo n g the uppe r edge o f
the eyebrows It is most soothi n g and rest ful
The eyelashes depe n d for their le ngt h and beauty upon
the conditio n o f the eyelids Do not allo w them to become
i n flamed I f they are i r ritated the lashes will be weake n ed
a n d will stop growi n g or will fall out T o make them
grow long and evenly they should be clipped two o r th r ee
times a year
I f the eyelashes gr ow thin o r u n eve n ly it may be because
the eyes are strained a n d the lids i n flamed To r emedy
such a co n dition I recomme n d either o f the followi ng
prescriptions
1
Rosewater 1 3 glass ; witch ha zel 2 glass Warm a n d
apply by opening the eye when covered by the glass ful of
the mixture t hus giving the eye a thorough bath
Camphor water 1 ounce ; powdered bo r ax 3 grai n s i n
fusion o f sassafras pith 2 o unces Apply with an eye
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M Y S EC R ET S O F
54
mme n d them
BEAU T Y
In themselves hai r dyes are likely to b e
inj urious The applicati o n o f o ne o f them to the eyel ashe s
by an unsteady han d might permanently inj ure the eyes
Eyelashes are o ften too light because they are faded To
restore them to their o rigi n al color clippi ng the ends car e
fully and slightly eve r y t w o mo n ths may st r engthen and
stimulate and s o darken them This pomade is in common
use in France
Red vaseline I ounce ; tincture o f ca n tharides V2 dram ;
oil o f lavender 8 drops ; o i l o f rosemary 8 d r ops A pply
w i th the u tmos t c ar e s o tha t n o n e of i t g e ts i n to the ey es
I f yo ur eyelids are encrusted when you wake up in the
mor n i n g don t attempt to remove the incrustations u n til you
have moistened them with a lotion from your eye c up The
best o n e for this purpose is made by dissolving a n ounce o f
bo racic acid in a pi n t o f rosewater
S tyes are ugly an d disfiguring In their first stages they
can be removed by applyi n g ethereal collodion with a camel s
hair b r ush I f the con dition has progressed far a tiny
fl ax see d poultice so o n brings it to the
ripe stage afte r
which it c an be la n ced by an o r dina ry needle t hat has been
sterilized by passi n g it through fi re
I f your eyeb r ows are straggly and uneven and in places
ve ry thin use an eyebrow brush twice a day Every mo rn
i ng and eve n ing b rush the brows giving them at least
twe n ty fiv e strokes each and being careful t o brush in the
direction you wa n t them to grow In this way yo u can do
much to cultivate the beautiful arch I t will als o remove
the dandru ff that is likely to accumulat e about the eyebrows
Massaging the brows at night with lano lin is also help ful
The greatest menace to a busines s girl s beauty is th at
The danger that this eye strain will produce
o f eye strai n
wrinkles between her eyebrows will inflame the li d s and
cause the eyelashes to fall ou t an d will dim the b r ightnes s
o f the eyes and pro duce t h e tire d expression o f the O l d or
o
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F OR
THE
EYE S EAR S
,
A ND N O S E
55
th ose who are devitalize d by age o r o v erwork is great
These t en dhnc i es s he must balance by greater care t han
the woman in er home gives to her eyes S ince the strain
du r ing business hou fs is excessive she shoul d n ot a dd to t h at
the further strain o f reading o n trains o r b y lamplight This
will caus e s o me intellectuals to c ry o u t "
L a Cavalieri
”
would empty o u r girls heads
No but the purpose o f
these articles is to reveal b eauty secrets an d o ne o f the
secrets o f beauty i s to keep the eyes clear bright and u n
tired There fore I repeat that th e beauty in business mus t
not read o n the moving train N o r must s he rea d by lamp
light The best use sh e can make o f he r eyes fo r beauty s
sake while upon a train is to clos e them and he r broth ers o r
Sisters would better read to he r at nigh t
S he can save the strain upon h e r eyes by closing them for
a few sec o nds at a time s everal times a d ay
They as well
as h er face must hav e their daily bath better two daily
baths one in the morning and one in th e evening T he
baths may be o f e q ual parts o f witch hazel an d warm wate r
o r o f warm water into which a hal f dozen grains o f boric
acid have been sprinkled o r a full cup ful o f rose water
And the girl who would keep her eyes beautif u l mus t
h ave ple n ty of sleep S he should sleep at least eight hours
a day more i f her system requires it I f she can take a
quarter o r hal f an hour s nap after coming home fro m b u si
ness and before her evening meal o r befo re going to the
theater o r a dance she will fi nd her tire d eyes h a v e r e
gained much o f their luster
B efore I finish m y advice about t he ey es I mus t not
forget to give still anoth er formula w h ich i s exc ellent for
bathing them
S alt V2 grain ; sulphat e o f zinc V2 grain ; rosewater 4
ounces Mix with an e q ual quantity o f water and apply
wi th an eye cup
The eyes tire most easily in summer and that is when they
of
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6
5
S ECRET S O F
MY
BEA U T Y
shoul d be given an extra amount o f rest an d attention Rest
them from the glare o f white country roads by wearing
smoked glasses Rest them by giving up the dist r actingly
becoming but eyes torturing crossbar r ed myriad dott ed veil
Read little P ersuade your beaux your little sisters o r your
maids o r poor relations to read to you Close your eyes
while you listen Do n t read i n a hammock n o r o n a lounge
Do n t read on a train Don t read in a r oom dimly lighted
”
s o that it will keep cool
Rest the ti r ed eyes by plenty
o f sleep at night an d a n after n oo n nap
B athe the eyes n ight a n d mo rn ing with witch hazel a n d
warm water mixed in equal parts ; or with an ou n ce of
boracic acid i n a pi n t o f r ose water
U s e an eye cup turni n g the eye upward and op e n ing it
When
s o that it will be laved by the contents o f the c u p
wipi n g the eyes u s e a soft cloth oil li n en or silk and wip e
the lids toward not away from the nose This will help
to p reve n t the wri n kles about the eyes also the wri n kli n g of
the eyelids themselves
For hot ti r ed eyes Mme Recamier used to apply a lotio n
made by pouri n g over d r ied rose leaves a qua n tity O f water
I f the eyes a r e ve r y i n flamed washing
o f twice their bulk
them in equal parts o f witch hazel and camphor water will
be fou n d be n eficial
Fo r gra n ular lids ma n y pastes have been recommended
My advice is to seek o u t a reliable physicia n a n d have the
eyes exami n ed and his p rescription filled
”
A cold in the eye is most a nn oying and liable to be
expe n sive You get up in the mor n i n g look i n the glass
—
—
o r maybe both
and find that o n e o f your eyes
looks
much i n flamed If you do n othing about it the condition
may not pass away fo r a n umber o f days a n d mea n while
you a r e more o r less disabled
Very possibly in some ala r m you go to see the oculist
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E Y E S E A R S, AND
FOR THE
NOSE
,
57
He frightens yo u at once by telling you that it is c on
n
i
i
s
a
lo
n
g
wo
r
d
which
means
simply
inflammation
u
i
t
c
t
v
j
o f the membrane that covers the eye He puts some drops
in the eye and tells you to come back the next day Y o u
a r e fi n ally cured and the bill comes t o $ 1 5 o r $2 5
That is well enough Perhaps you don t mind the bill
o r the trouble of goi n g t o the doctor s
B ut it i s likely t hat
you would be less satisfie d if y ou knew that y ou could easil y
have cured yoursel f much q uicke r and with ou t any ex
pense at all
I f you have a cold in y o u r eye you can get rid o f it
within a few ho u rs by bathing the eye freely and o ften with
a solution made by putting tw o d r ops O f fo rmaline into a
teacup ful o f water The fo rmaline you can buy at any drug
store I t may be used with an eye d ropper or an eye bath
either o f which can be had f rom the drugstore But it is
even more e ffective to allow somebo dy else to pour it i n to
the eye by squeezi n g agai n and again a rag o r p iece o f cot
ton saturated with it
A cold in the eye is nothing in the worl d b ut a germ
infection Fo r maline kills the germs But do n t u se for
maline in any stro n ger solution th an two drops to the tea
cup ful I f you get it into you r eye in a pure state you
might destroy the sight A t the l east y ou w o ul d su ff er
fright ful pain
Incide n tally it may be sai d that the best eye water known
to oculists for the treatment o f sore eyes o r lids is made
by mixi n g ten g r ains o f boracic acid and five grai n s o f
ta nnic acid with one drachm o f camphor water and enough
ordi n ary water to make a total of o ne ounce The ingre
di e n t s are cheap purchase d from the apothecary an d yo u
c an prepa r e them yourself i f
u
care
to
o
y
When not due to over i n dulgence in alcohol an ex c es
s i v ely red nose is usually the result o f indigestion o r cloth
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MY
8
5
S ECRET S O F
BEA U T Y
ing that is too tight In the first stages o f the trouble
P arisians bathe the un fortunate featu re frequently with this
recommended by Dr Vigier "
Distilled water 5 0 grams ; rosewater 5 0 grams ; tincture
o f benzoin I gram ; sulphate o f potassi u m 1 gram
I f it has become ch ronic this massaged freely into the
a ffected organ is recommen d e d by M Andres Valdes
R e c ti fi e d alcohol 8 grams ; pure glycerine 8 grams ; pre
c i p it at e d chalk 8 grams ; cherry laurel water 8 grams ; pre
c i p i tat e o f sulphur 8 grams
The e ar is the most neglected part o f the head That
a pair o f ears stand out unduly from the face making wh at
o n e o f your American artists term the accessories of the
face more p rominent t han the countenance itsel f most
parents regard as a wise v isitation of Providence o r ignore
it Or i f the ears are S O j ammed against the head that
one can not see them without an e ffort that too is liabl e
to be overlooked by pare nts not by anyone else w ho sees
the child who is a victim to the malformation
B e as care ful to frame your child s face well as you are
to frame a picture so that its colors are best thrown into
relief S ome mothers are artists in the matter o f the ar
rangement o f the child s hair and when this is becomingly
do n e they think their duty done T he ears are neglected
If they stand ou t prominently from the head they can
be trai n ed especially in childhood back into the relation
they should bear to the head An ear har n ess made o f
strong cotton tape is made for this purpo se and should be
worn at night by children or adults who need it It is far
better o f course to use it i n childhood when the ca r tilage
that forms the outer part o f the ear is more plastic but it
is more o r less efficacious after you have reached you r full
growth It is certainly well worth trying
If the ear is packed closely against the hea d train it o u t
ward by gentle massage and light pulling done by yoursel f
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E Y E S EAR S
THE
F OR
A ND N O S E
,
59
are the best j udge o f whethe r the pulling h u rts If it
does stop I f the ears ar e less than the normal si z e they
can be enlarged by the same process
An earache that canno t be quickl y relieve d b y placing
loose warm bandages over it shoul d be b ro ught at once to
the doctor s attention fo r a persistent earache is often the
forerunner o f serious conditions especially o f d eafness
I f you r ears are delicate riding in the tunnels may be
rmanently
inj
urious
to
them
The
greatly
increase
d
pres
e
p
sure o f air under the r ivers is a menace to the eardrum ;
may caus e it to burst an d bring about incurable deafness
You d o not kn ow perhaps that chronic an d severe dis
e ases o f the ear o ften b egin in the nose o r throat
Where
fore you are taking care o f the ear when yo u keep t h e th r oat
and the nasal passages free f rom obstacles Gargling the
throat every morning is a measure fo r health and c leanli
nes s th at no one shoul d neglect A tables po on ful of salt in
a glass o f warm water o r a pinch o f bor ax in the sam e
q uantity o f water will s e rve well B ut I am inclined to
the later belie f that no o ne Should do uche the nose except
by the d octor s order The liqui d you use fo r the douch e
might carry germs o f d isease into the back o f the hea d and
cause a general infection while they might d isappear in the
na t u ral wa y if there w e re no interferenc e with nat u re s
plan of ca r ry ing away inva d ers o f the hea d I f the no se
is in heal thy condition it secr etes a pin t o f li qu i d ev e ry day
a nd is n at u re s adequate channel for clearing the h e a d
B u t the e ar must not be encourage d no r allow ed long
”
to run
A c h ronic disc h arge from th e ear i s a seriou s
con d ition and may have a fatal end Hasten with it to a
physician L i fe insurance companies knowing how serious
this i s will never insu r e the lives o f persons with running
ears
Doctors generally advise us not t o try to remove the wa x
T hey s ay that if we let the ear alone the
f rom the ears
Y ou
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60
MY
S ECRET S
OF
BEAU T Y
wa x will finally form into a ha r d little ball and d rop out
without assistance They advise us not to put cott on into
the ears unless Specially advised to by a reliable physician
who will never give the advice unless the need is imperative
The y forbid p o ultici n g o r syringing the ears without special
advice and they are quite right in warning against the i n
discrimi n ate use of ear drops B etter rega r d the i n ner
pa r t of the ear as inviolate S o too the outer except for
keepi n g the folds clean In the cleaning do not handle the
ear roughly Remov e the dust from the folds of the ear
with a so ft cl o th soap and water B e careful to i m
mediately a n d thoroughly dry them If you leave the neck
o r hair about the ears wet or chilled the earache or neu
r alg i a that will follow may lead to d eafness
Never box a child s ears ; it may caus e a rupture Do
B e su r e to have
n o t pull a child s ears lest inj ury follow
the adenoids removed Adenoids i n children are a cause
o f ear troubles among many others Physicians no w b e
lieve that s ea Sickness is du e to ear disturbances
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M Y S EC R E T S O F
62
BEAU T Y
the fi rst
C arry your mu ff f rom October t o Ap ril
I
said to t he second And when they ha d promised I having
sternly exacted t h at essen tial thing I s et about removing
the ugliness T he fi rst aid was to Show the m the right way
to wash t heir han d s N ot one p e rson in fi fty k nows how to
wash the han d s
T he water shoul d be t epid
I f it is what is known as
h ar d water it may be so ftene d with a little borax say one
O r i f possible it would
t easpoonful to a q uart o f water
be well to u s e distilled water since borax m u st be used with
discretion
Then dip i n to the water a cake o f the best soap A
scented soap is not necessarily a bad soap S o I try va r ious
kinds liking o ne but s eeking another that is better When
I have dipped the soap into the water long enough to ma ke
a dainty lat h e r I plunge my hands i n t o i t
Then I dr y them but onl y partly upon a s o ft linen towel
B e fore the han d s have time to d ry and especially before
they have time to chill I take from my toilet Shelf or medi
cin e chest a bottle o f my favorite ha n d cleanser The bot
tle may be large or small but the proportions o f the mixt u re
I keep always the same Here is ho w it is mad e
Hy d rated glycerine ( glyceri n e mixed with water ) I
tablespoonful ; any favorite p erfume ( mine is Italian pink )
drops
3
Rub is not a strong
R ub t h e hands thoroughly with this
enough word for the p r ocess I t does not suggest the thor
S ay rather wash your hands in
o ughn e s s o f the process
it T en minutes is none too long for washing the hands
F iv e minute s shoul d be given t o the water five to the
glycerin e bath Then dry thoroughl y wi th a towel O h
serv e how so f t yo u r hands are after such a bath an d you
will be surp r ised and delighted with this treatment
I am aware that there is som e prej udice against glycerine
Woul d b e a utho r iti es will rise and say that gl yc e rin e burns
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A N NA H E LD
T he
f asc i n a t i n g
b e au ty
of
he r
e ye
s
is
fa m o u s
t he
w
or
ld
ove r
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KEE P I N G
A N D A RM S YO U N G
HAND S
63
exceedingly delicate skin
that it i s an irritant in some
cases S o it i s T he person w ho uses it must be a j udge
It has always agreed with my hands
o f that herself
making them so ft and white and supple But fo r those
whose hands burn and itch a fter using it there is this lotion
for occasional not regular u s e for I am opposed to a to o
free use o f p e r oxide o f hydr ogen
P eroxide o f hydrogen
wineglass witch hazel
wine
glass ; always shake well be fore using
I Should n o t advise this o ftener than three times a week
at most And I should vary it with rubbing with oli v e o i l
which is o f especial v alue to thin hands A few w eeks o f
u sing it will result in a pe rceptible plumpening o f them
O r to whiten an d soften the hands this has many adv o
cates and I s e e no obj ection to its occasional use A m
monia is too powerful for regular use
O live oil 1 wineglass ; ammonia 6 d rops
B u t to assure beautiful hands and that in the sho rt es t
possible time massage the m with a simple co ld c r eam and
wear rubbe r gloves at night But the gloves should be at
least two Sizes larger than the 5 % o r 6 you wear in kids
an d they shoul d b e punctured as freely as the top of a
h
e
h
f
t
x
o
epper
Ventilation
is
necessa
r
y
to
the
healt
b
o
p
han d s and o f the owne r o f the hands
F o r a cold crea m fo r the hands fo r the night t oilet I
should advis e this mixture "
S pe rmaceti 2 ounces ; white wax 1 ounce ; almon d o i l
2 gills
There are two pastes that are excellent to b e u se d as a
night cosme ti c with gloves
Rosewater 6 ounces ; hone y 4 ounces ; yellow beesw ax
2 ounces ; myrrh
I ounce
This c an be prepared at home i f yo u desire Melt the
wax S tir the pow d ered myrrh while hot Add the honey
and rosewater d ro p by d rop I f the preparati o n seems t o
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64
MY
S ECRET S
OF
BE AU T Y
be a bit t oo thick to handle comfortably th i n it with a few
drops of hyd r ated glyceri n e
Anothe r delightful paste has the following ingredients
Tincture o f benzoin 2 d r ams ; fresh yolks of eggs 2
drams ; rice flour 1 dram rose wate r I ounce ; o il o f sweet
a lmonds 2 drams ; glyce r i n e I dram
This is a home p reparati o n and because o f the peris hable
natu r e o f the eggs can only be kept for a few days
N ow as to how to ma ss age the h ands F o r the face a
rotary motion but fo r the hands a le n gthwise o n e I c an
best describe the massage for the hands by summoning you r
imagination Fancy that you are wearing a pair o f gloves
for the first time That y ou have accu r ately fitted the fi n
gers and tha t you have now o n ly t o s ee that the glove fits
smoothly upon the back o f the hands Y ou stroke the back
of the right hand gently but firmly wi th the fi ngers of the
left and the left hand w ith t he fingers o f the right D o
this at least twenty times for each han d Then lightly
pinch the ends o f each finger p ressi n g the si d es o f the fi n
gers between the thumb and second finger
S ome excessively nervous o r anaemic persons are an
n oyed by cold moist clammy hands
This is a remedy tha t
is safe and e fficacious "
Tannic acid 1 0 grains ; tincture o f be nzoin yz ounce ;
elder flower wate r 3 ou n ces ; rosewater 6 ounces
I f there is a stro n g obj ectio n t o soap try the liquid
sort I f you r obj ectio n persists then substitute fine al mond
meal a handful for one cleansing o f the hands Tincture
o f ben z oin is als o a good softe n i n g age n t for the water and
its o d or is refreshing Four drops to a quart o f tepid water
are su fficient
Ho w can I hav e nice white hands though I d o my o w n
”
work "
This is the p r oblem ma n y housewives continually
face By wearing loose gloves as muc h as possible about
your work By thoroughl y drying your hands a fter wash
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KEE P I N G
A R MS
H A N D S A ND
YO U N G
65
ing th em o r better still by washing them agal n be f ore they
are drie d in
Glycerine I ounce ; lemon j uice I ounce
The beauty o f the h ands s u ff ers in di fferen t ways at d i f
fe r ent times o f year
In winter the col d winds frequentl y
chap them F or this d isagreeable condition I have used
with goo d res u lts a lo tion ma d e as follows
Glycerine 1 ounce ; spirits o f wine I ounce ; violet ex
tract I ounce P ou r over the hands a fter washi n g
I f the chapping has ma d e the han d s too se n sitive to bear
the glyc erine t ry t hi s
Oil o f almonds 1 o u nce ; lime water I fluid ounce ; bo rax
6 g r ains
In summer the ha n ds an d arms o ften su ffer a s much i f
not mo r e than the face f r om the su n s burn ing rays Here
is a lotio n which will cool the m and reduce their unlovely
redness
Lem o n j uice 1 ounce ; st r ained honey 1 ounce ; cologne
1 ounce
I f the sunburn results i n freckles apply with a small
sponge or a bit o f abso rbe n t cotton o r a ca mel s hai r brus h
the following
I
P owdered borax V2 dram ; sugar 2 d r am ; lemon j uice
I ounce
Here is still another remedy which answers the purpose
as well as the ones j ust described "
Muriate o f a mmo n ia
dram ; lave n der water 1 ounce ;
distilled water 4 ounces
For a mild case o f freckles here is a simple remedy th a t
will o ften p rove su ffi cie n t
P eroxide of hydrogen I ounce ; ammonia 1 0 drops
Apply with a camel s hai r brush
O f no part of the body is it quite s o true that c u rv es ar e
the lines o f beauty as it is of the arms and sho ul d ers A
lovely woman in an evening gown always reminds me o f a
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66
MY
S ECRET S
OF
BEA U T Y
beautiful b ouquet rising o u t o f a v ase T he woman s hea d
and shoulders and arms are the fl o w ers the gown and the
rest of her body the v ase Fancy a bo uquet with one fresh
purple pansy in the center and all about it withered yellow
flowers It is not a pleasant picture even in fancy but that
i s precisely how the woman with a charming face and u n
lovely arms and shoulders looks
B eautiful sh o ulde r s must first o f all be symmetrical
shoulders They must be j ust b road en ough to balance
finely the fi gure I f the figure which they surmount be
sle n der the shoulders also should be slender But they
For beauty s sake they must be soft
s hould never be thin
n o t mu scular
They must be overlaid with a veili n g of
fi rm flesh They must slop e gently into the li n es o f the
arms and bust and back by almost imperceptible degrees
While they are plump in front they should be thin at the
back A roll o f flesh between the shoulder blades is u n
sightly an d gives the appearance o f age
After shapeliness o f the shoulders in imp ortance comes
whiteness S houlders well cared for should be the whitest
a
rt
of
a
woman
s
body
p
A th ir d impo rtant element in the beauty o f the shoulders
is the texture o f the skin It should be o f satin fineness
To attain shapely shoulders b egin with the chest T he
woman with a high chest always has beauti fully shape d
shoulders Form the habit o f breathing d eeply A shop
girl in o ne o f New Y ork s d epart ment stores had S O fi ne a
development o f chest an d shoulders that I asked her how
Her fi gure w as so slender that I knew she
s he achieve d it
must have bu ilt up those sh o ulders an d the chest b y so m e
wise system o f exercise
”
Yes ha ven t I done fi ne " she answered
Two ye ars
ago I was the scrawniest thing you ever saw My neck
a n d sho u l d ers looked like a wood pile t hat ha d tumbled over
itself I was all sharp corners I heard o f this new de e p
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M Y S ECRET S O F
68
BEA U T Y
l
Rosewater 1 2 ounces ; tincture of benzoi n I ounce ; tan
nic acid 2 0 grains ; elder flowe r water 4 ou n ces
S hould ers shoul d be white Normally they are and if
n ot the general health sh o uld be loo ked to as a corrective
Are the Shoulders yellow " P robably thei r owner is bilious
and r equires a change from a heavy meat a n d sweets diet
to a lighter o n e in which cereals a n d g r een vegetables an d
s alads predominat e
The system should be irrigated by
much water drinking Try to remember that the amount
o f food for a day s s u stenance has been estimated i n th e
p r opo rtio n o f fiv e parts t o s even parts water Are her
shoulders marre d b y pimples o r ac n e " Again she should
look to her diet eating less rich food A thorough scrub
bing o f the shoulders with warm water a n d pu r e soap o n ce
a day followe d by a rub down with alcoh o l should be su f
fi c i en t to keep them prettily white if the diet is a cor r ect
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I f the shoulders have been ta nn ed o r f r eckled by much
they will be
s ea bathi n g o r lolling on the bu rn i n g sa n ds
improved by applications twice a day of this ol d fashi o n ed
remedy
Horseradish root I o u nce ; borax 2 drams Pour over
these o n e p int o f b o ili n g water Ap p ly with a sponge
Also apply distilled water a n d the j uice o f a lemon o r
pe ro xide o f hydrogen mixed in equal pa r ts
The e ffects of a hal f doze n app lications o f these Shoul d
be quickly appare n t
Arms like shoulders must possess symmet ry That is
they must seem to be of the body inclu d ed in the original
plan instead o f be ing hastily added as an afterthought
They must be in pe r fect p r oportio n The size o f t he arm
depends wholly upo n the size O f the b ody
In Paris rece n tly a pretty little Russian Miss Ameli a
Rose won the prize for having a perfect arm In P aris
where beauty is the chief d ivinity the awardi n g of the pri z e
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KEE P I N G
H A N D S A ND
A R M S YO U N G
69
not of the French nation was a m omentous matter
Everyone w anted t o kno w the proportions o f the arm
The Russian beauty s height was five feet fi ve inches
Her arms con formed to the canons of statuary T h e upper
arm was one third shorter than the forearm The circum
fe r ence o f the upper arm w as thirteen inches ; O f the fore
arm nine inches and of the wrist s i x inches
The beautiful arm looks as though it were mad e for
ornament not for use No muscle is undul y prominent
It should b e a s Sof t an d smooth as white velvet I f the
a rm i s t oo fat its size can be reduced by massage with the
wringing motion The masseus e s ho u l d manip u l ate the
a m exactly as th o ugh she were wringing ou t cloth e s b e
r
fore hanging them out to d ry
To develop the arm there a r e man y e xercises S mall
d umbbells weighing hal f a poun d can b e swung to great
advantage Also to d e v elop at once the musc l es o f shoul
ders and arms this is v aluable S tretch the arm s hori
z o n t all
from
the
ody
until
the
muscles
r
tense
Then
b
a
e
y
slowly raise them above t he hea d trying to keep the muscl es
rigid Cle n ch the fists and stretching the arms horiz o n
tally at the sides rais e and lower the arms T his d ev elops
the biceps Cle n ch the fi sts an d turn th em slow l y about
o n the wrists to make the wri s ts s u ppl e
L ight massage
with olive o i l supplements the exercises
I k n ow a gi r l w ho otherwise had a charming fi gu re but
whose arms were distressingly thin It t ook two years o f
attentio n to them to make thos e arm s attracti v e but she
succeeded
The means we r e a change o f diet to more nou rishing an d
muscle building food a hal f hour tw ice a day with dumb
bells and daily massage with cold cream o r olive o i l T he
resul ts were so ft well rounded pinkly white arms that
cha rmed everyone who s aw them
A n exercise that develops the arms and the back an d
to
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MY
9
7
S ECRET S O F
BE AU T Y
bust as well is this " H olding t he arms at the sides inhale
deeply Clench the fists Bend the elbows B r ing the
fists to the shoulders moving only the lower arms With
t he fists resting at the Shoulders raise the elbows to a
straight lin e with the shoulders Mov e the fists down
slowly until they fi t close into the armpit s Move the fists
slowly around to the back crossing them and then lower
ing the a rms to their fi rst position Keep the muscles tense
while so doing This is a famous resistance exercise
I f the texture o f the skin o n the arms is coarse a dry
r ub eve r y day with a s o ft flesh brush should open the pores
whose long collecting accretio n s have made the skin rough
This treatment will make the skin tender I f it seems s en
s i t i v e apply a goo d cold cream every mo rn ing and evening
A fter the morning application powder may be added The
a r ms may be dusted with a pure powder One of the
best cold creams for the purpose is this
Oil o f sweet almonds 5 0 grams ; white wax 1 0 g r ams ;
spermaceti o r sper m o i l 1 0 grams ; rosewate r 2 0 grams ;
tincture o f benzoin 5 g r ams ; tincture o f amber 2 grams
While reducing her arms o r before she has succeeded in
s o d o ing the stout woman should not wea r sleeves shorter
than the elbow length ; Her upper arm is g r oss a n d she
should veil it until she has reduced it to lovelier prop o r
tions
T o ke e p my han d s smooth and white I wash them a la
Cavalieri First in soapy water through many waters
until they are spotless as my linen Then I d ry them but
only part ly by the heat of the hands themselves n o t with
a towel Then I bathe them again in this mixture
One ounce glyceri n e ; three ounces rosewater ; ten drops
lemon j uice This should be well Shaken when bei ng
mixed and also every time it is used
Cold roughened hands must be treated with special care
That is the time to giv e the m their complet e
at night
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KEE P I N G
H A N D S A ND
AR M S Y O U N G
1
7
It is well fo r them i f it has not been necessar y to
wash them often d uring the day They m u st of course be
kept clean But bett er avoi d soiling the m d uring the d ay
than wash them t oo o ften
Bu y a large pair o f ru bbe r glo v es at l eas t three o r f o u r
si z es larger th an the ki d glo v es y o u are in the habit o f
we aring A fter washing the hands in warm water so f
tened with a few d rops o f ammonia say a hal f do z en drops
to a q uart o f water and a good pure soap as white castil e
o r one o f the tar soaps b athe the han d s in cooler water an d
before d rying them rub thoroughly over them
Glycerine 1 ounce ; rosewater 1 ounce Then draw o n
the ru bber gloves
I f the hands be m u ch d arkene d o r re dd ene d this will
whiten as well as s often them
Glycerine 1 ounce ; lemon j uice 1 ounc e
In extrem e cases a paste worn fo r two o r three nigh ts
u nde r the rubber glo v es will facili tate the work o f making
the hands onc e more presentable This is a goo d paste
Almond meal 1 o u nce ; tinct u re o f b enz oin 1 0 d r ops ;
honey V2 ounce
In simi lar fashion w h en h an d s hav e been reddened and
blistered by the s u n wear a pair o f loose gloves at night
first coveri n g the hands with this mixture
Honey 2 ounces ; glycerine 1 ounce ; barley flour 8
ounces ; whites o f two eggs
O r the followi n g lotion rubbed into the hands well will
answer the same purpose
Cologne 2 ounces ; lemon j uice 2 ounces ; liquid honey 2
ounces
M u ch is asked an d much from time to time answered
abo ut the care o f th e arm s yet an attractive arm may b e
hopelessly mar r e d by an U gly elbo w Resolve that y our
arms are onl y as prett y as y our elbows an d set to work
upon them
t oile t
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MY
2
7
S ECRET S O F
BEAU T Y
First examine them closely and while you examine them
keep in mi n d the standard for a lovely elbow To be lo v ely
it should be little in evide n ce s o little i n fact that it seems
to be merely an appearing and disappearing feature —so
to speak — a dimple playing peekaboo
Instead o f this what do you p robably see " A sharp
bo n y cor n er o r a mass o f unsightly wrinkles in either
case darker than the surrounding flesh Almost certai n ly
the skin cove r i n g it is dark and r ough
a patch o f goose
flesh a you n g girl complained when d ressing for a dance
Now what is to be done "
T ry first to rid the elbows of their dis fi gu ring redness o r
darker col o r Rub them every night befo re r etiring with
This is better than a lemon because
a hal f grape fruit
the elbo w can settle into it and work about it I f you
place the halves o f grape fruit o n a table an d rest your
elbows in the m you can read o r chat o r meditate and leave
the elbows to their bleachi n g fo r an in d efinite t ime R e
peat this every night until yo u notice an improvement in
their color
But do not be satisfied with this progress S cr ub the
elbows daily with warm water an d a bleaching s o ap One
Or u se castile soap
o f the peroxide soap s would be useful
with water into which yo u have sprinkled a few drops o f
peroxide o f hydrogen o r o f ammonia
An inge n ious girl I kno w bound slices o f lemon o n her
elbows eve r y night be fore going to bed While this is not
as quickly e fficacious as the grape fruit it is cheaper
When this gradual whitening o f the elbows has been ac
complished take the next step in their beautifying which
is smoothi n g them I f they are very rough scrub them
with a p umice sto n e that has bee n dipped int o warm water
R ub the r oughened s p ots gently with this and slowly lest
you irritate the skin Then apply cold cream or O live o i l
t o allay even an y tendenc y to irri tation
O r i f they are
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KEE P I N G
H A ND S
AND
A RM S Y O U N G
73
only slightly roughened rubbing them round and round
with finge rs that ha v e been spread with cocoa n ut O il is
e n ough i f long continued to so ften them
I f the elbows are v ery sharp massaging the flesh about
them with palms well g r eased with mut ton tallow Should in
time nourish t h e m into r o undness
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C H A P TER
M
A SS A GE A S A
V
BE
A U T I F I ER
is o f two kinds
good a n d bad It is good
o r bad
according to the knowledge and skill o f the
masseuse I have a pro found unshakable belief i n the
e fficacy o f massage It is my cure all I rarely take medi
ci n e Almost never i n all my life in fact F or long ago
I heard what your American poet Oliver Wendell Holmes
wrote "
I f all the drugs were thro w n into the s ea it
would be ha r d on the fishes b u t i t woul d be bette r for
huma n ity
That f ro m a man w h o knew medicine d eeply
impressed me
That which will most interest readers o f this bo o k prob
ably will be the consideration o f massage as a b eau ti fi e r
In that aspect I most earnestly rec ommen d it F o r hal f
my life I have had my face massaged frequently a n d for
ma n y years I have had it massaged every day With what
result " That my face is absolutely free f r o m lines That
my complexion is smo o th and absolutely free from blem
ishes I resolve d that it sh o uld approach the smooth n ess
a n d clearness o f an infant s skin if care could achieve that
e ff ect and I have succeeded
Moreover there is no abnormal growth o f hair upon the
face With pleasure I lay the ghost o f that fiction against
massage Despite all that we hear to the contra r y the fric
tion has not caused the growth o f the tiniest o f beards
I f you entrust the mass age o f your face to a masseuse
be s u re tha t she has had prope r instruction an d considerable
B ad massage is much worse than n one for it
ex peri enc e
A S S A GE
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74
6
7
S E CRET S O F
MY
BE AU T Y
Tincture o f b enzoin 1 ounce ; tincture o f vanilla 4
drams ; sweet almo nd oil 3 ou n ces ; bitter almo n d o i l I
dram ; s p e r maceti 5 d r a ms ; white w ax 5 drams ; lanolin
1 ou n ce ; witch h az el
1 ou n ce ; rosewater 3 ounces
Havi n g first had your face massaged several times by an
expert masseuse you can lea r n the movements you r self a n d
massage your o w n face S ome become deft at self facial
massage in a sho r t time S ome w ho have clumsy fi n gers o r
a lack o f perception neve r maste r the a rt S ome beautiful
wome n never entrust their faces to a masseuse I am told
Fi r st look to the shadowy new lin es upon your face I f
there be n one consider where the li n es form whe n you
laugh when you f r o w n when you sulk o r when you cry
Anticipate thes e lines by nourishing well the muscles in
those regio n s
The wrinkle regions o f a woma n s face a r e four The
first is abo ut the outer co r ners o f the eyes The w ri n kles
there formed have been known for many ages as c r ow s
feet b ecause they radiate outwa r d in somewhat the fashio n
tha t a bi r d s toes are dis p osed They might as fi t ti ngly
be called chi c ken s toes o r pigeon s toes or eagle s toes
They are supposed to be the i n e r adicable unmistakable
Signs o f age The t ruth is they a r e the paths o f laughte r
and indicate a mer ry disposition I have seen them o n the
fac e o f a boy o f twelve I have seen th em st r o n gly ma r ked
on the counten ance o f a young woman of twenty o n e
They are the measures o f the laughi n g capacity o f the pe r
In that light they a r e the l eas t ugly
so n who bears them
o f the wrinkles ; yet w r ink l e s they are a n d at best w ri n kles
are undesirable
To remove c r ow s feet d i p the tips o f the fi ngers in o n e
of th e good massage c r eams and with the s econd and thi r d
fingers rub th e area a ff ected with a rotary motion wo r ki n g
from the corne r s of the eyes outward
More disfigu r ing than the crow s feet because o f more
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M A S S AG E A s
BE AU T I F I ER
A
77
ignoble o r igin and more diffi cult to erase are the diagonal
li n es from the nostrils to the cor n er o f the lips They are
”
known variously as the bad temper lines the emotional
”
”
lines the lines o f discontent
Using the middle finger
the massage should begin at the corners o f the mouth and
should end where the lines en d at the nostrils This move
ment should also be a rotary o ne It should be deeper and
firmer than that about the eyes
The thi rd o f the w rinkle areas an d the o n e in which the
wrinkles fi rst app ear in most faces is the forehead One
o f y our A merican wome n d octors said that the signs upo n
When
the forehea d are unmi stakable and infallibl e ones
a woman h as three transverse lines across the f orehead I
”
know that she i s t wenty se v en s ai d this woman physician
When she has t wo v ertical lines between the e y es I know
”
This is interesting but untrue I
t h a t she is fo rty fiv e
kno w hal f a dozen women o f fi fty who hav e neither o f these
group s o f telltale lines
I n massaging the lines o f the brow remember the gen
eral rule fo r massage The movement must be in contrary
direction from the line F o r instance the v ert ical lines b e
tween the eyes must b e treated b y the second finger o f each
hand and must b e rotary and upward branching abo ve the
eyes with a ge n tly diminishing motion to the right an d lef t
toward the temples The transverse lines forming as the y
do by a creasi n g o f the skin fro m b o ttom to t op Should b e
massaged by a rotary motion from the bottom to the t Op o f
the forehead
The fourth o f the danger z ones is that in front o f the
ears The vertical lines in front o f the ears are belie v e d
to bet o ken advancing age Yet like those about the eyes
they are misleadi n g They Sometimes appear o n the face s
o f in fa n ts
The manner in which t he ea r is s et accounts
la rgely fo r the prese n ce o f these w r inkles I f it is s et
o ut f ro m t h e head prominently t he s kin i s loose i n f ront o f
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M Y S EC R ET S O F
8
7
BEAU TY
the ear an d fa ll s readily into wrinkles I f the ear s et s clos e
to the head th e skin in front o f the ear is drawn tau t an d
the so called age betraying w rinkles never ap p e ar T o
che ck this fold o f skin is almost impossible i f the ear stands
To retard its deepening u se the middl e
o u t f rom the head
finger for massage and with deep firm motion push slowly
upward toward t he top o f the ear
The lines on the neck behind the ears d istress som e
women To correct them massage with the first an d s ec
ond and third fingers deeply upward toward the hair
Massage o f the body is prescribed by many physician s
for nerv ous disorders for d efective circulation and for r e
d uction o f flesh for insomnia and other disorders Whil e
invaluable it Sho u ld only be given by a skillful masseuse
p re ferably o ne recommended by a reliable physician
O f all systems o f massage the S wedish is regarde d as
bes t Its O per ators must study their a rt for t wo y ears
I f a woman be thin this massage emollient is agreeable
and ad d s t o her weight
O il o f sweet almon d s 6 ounces ; oi l o f bitt er almonds
2 0 drops ; ba lsa m o f tolu 4 grams ; benzoin 4 grams ; es
sence o f ora n ge 6 drops ; essence o f caj eput 6 dro ps
I f the patie n t be plump talcum powder is the only aid to
t he hands o f th e masseus e required
The beautiful woman has po i n ts L et us enumerat e
A figure grace ful in outli n e not too thin nor t oo
t hem "
fat A face that is fascinating and by fascinating I mean
interesting But to make it interesting it m u st have what "
Features that are well proportio n ed let us say regular
They must seem to belong to one s o wn face and no other
T he nose must not be too large nor too small but j us t large
e no ugh for the face in which it is s et
H o w to keep the lines o f that face as good as they were
"
It is most important The
o r b etter
at the beginning
intelligently massaged The
n os e s ho u l d be massaged
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a
P i nt e r
s
a nd
s cu l p s ag i gi i g h h i g h a
m s b a u ti fu l l i i g w m
to r
o t
ree
e
n
v
n
v n
er
o
r
en
.
nk
am g th
on
e
M A S S AGE A s
A
BEA U T I F I E R
79
owner o f the nose he r sel f can d o it qu ite a s we l l i f not be t
ter than any othe r
I f the nose is too broa d she shoul d massage i t d elicately
toward the p o int I f it is too s h arp she shoul d massage it
away from the point to the flare o f the nostrils always with
the merest p oints o f the c u shions o f he r fingers T o keep
its no r mal whiteness it s ho u l d hav e o ften at least once a
day a hot compress o f cotto n dippe d in ro sewater o r other
distille d water spread upon it An d a fter that there sho u l d
be a da sh o f col d water u p on it to close the pores
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W
C H A P TER VI
H AT
TO DO FO R TH E
F
EET
HE b eautiful foot is that o f the baby It is beautiful
because it is n atural unmarred by ill fitti ng cramp
i ng distorting shoes
Just in so far as the foot has departe d from its origi n al
shape and habit is it less than pe rfect It is hard indeed
to find a b eautiful fo o t The story is told o f a New York
sculptor who searching fo r a perfect foot dismissed three
thousand models w ho were applicants for the h o n or d eclar
ing that there was not o n e beautiful foot among them
By the establishe d modern standard the foot should be
neither small nor large though it is pre ferable that it be
small rather than large The tiny foot o f a large woman
is absurd It suggests deformity S o does the short foot
o n the tall woman
The foot Should seem to belong to the
woman n o t to have been loaned to her for the occasio n
Like her hand it should seem to be in perfect harmony
with the rest o f her body I f the owner be plump the foot
should not be thin I f she be thin th e foot shoul d not be
plump
It should be neither bony n o r too fat The bones should
be well covered but their outli n e shou ld be plain e n ough
to give a ce r tain distinction called character to the foot
The toes should spread comfortably apart yet there should
not be unseemly spaces between t h em The spaces should
be slight and even like those b etween regular and well
kept teeth The Skin Should be smooth an d pinky white
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80
M Y S E C R ET S
82
OF BEA UT Y
the sole Your ounce o f preventio n is sendi n g the
shoes to a cobbler the moment you s ee the hi n t of crooked
ness in the heels They can be planed o r built up to their
former evenness at very slight expense The money Spe n t
thus is much less than the fee o f a chiropodist that yo u will
save
Having formed the habit of wearing comfortable shoes
and let me say here that American Shoes are the best a n d
that I always wear them — s ee that the feet are released
o ften from their prison Even the best pair o f shoes is
a pris o n In your own room wear the Japa n ese sa n dals
that protect the delicate soles from the floor but that leave
the toes free to lie loosely apart though they are secured
by strong cross bands These give the muscles of the feet
a chance to relax They are much better for this pu r pose
than th e felt slipper o r shoe which is t oo cl o sely woven to
permit prope r ventilation
The f eet like that o ther extreme o f the body the hai r
need sunlight Think how little the poor imprisoned feet
get They need air How little o f that they get
Well shaped feet are so much rarer to day than they were
i n the days o f the Ro ma n s a n d Greeks mai n ly because we
imprison them in unventilated sun forbiddi n g shoes instead
o f wearing the sa n dal of the ancients which gave the feet
the light and air they need
It is un fortunate that the arbiters o f fashion ha ve not
seen fit to condemn modern shoes in favor o f the ancient
sa n dal More harm is do ne to the feet by the present
day footwear than is done to the hair by rats and pu ffs o r
to the vital organs by t i ghtfi tt i ng c orsets
S ome years ago it did become the fashion for childre n to
wear sandals b u t their elders we r e no t wise e n ough to
f ollow their example But if you ca nn ot wear sandals
yourselves there is no reason why you shouldn t ha v e your
on
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W
HA T T O D O F O R T H E F EET
83
c h il d ren wear them f or it is even more impo rtant t h at the
child s feet be pro perly t aken care o f than the adults
In early li fe the bones are naturally soft an d may b e
r eadily fo r ce d o u t o f their normal shapes by any consider
able ext erior pressure I t is obvious that to maintain the
pro p er contour o f the child s feet the san d al is much more
satis fact o ry than the shoe The former permits the feet
to be flat on the ground and sp r eads the toes the latter
crowds the toes and compresses the wh o le foot
And adults can improve the condition o f their f eet b y
wearing sandals in the ho u s e even if prevailing f ashi o n do e s
not permit o f their w earing them out o f doors
To be healthy the feet must be kept scrupulously clean
S o much are they exposed to the dust o f the streets es
i
l
l
ec
a
by
those
who
wea
r
l
sh
es
that
they
need
mor
o
e
w
o
p
y
than the perfunctory share o f the morning plunge o r shower
They should be b athed every night in a fo o t tub containing
warm water I f the feet be tender the water shoul d c on
tain borax in the p roport ion o f an ounce to a gallon
Wa r m salt water is also very easeful for tired fe et e s
l
i
l
e
c
a
use
ful
fo
r
reducing
the
congesti
in
swollen
feet
o
n
p
y
This powder sprinkled into the warm bathwater a ff ords
great relief
Borax ( pow d ered ) 1 o u nce ; S ea salt 1 ounce ; alum
ounce U se one teasp oon ful to a gallon o f water
F or tired swollen feet lemo n j uice s p r i n kle d freely into
the wate r is a means o f alleviation An easie r way to appl y
it is to cut a lemon in hal f an d rub the soles o f the feet
with it
Calloused spo ts may be remove d f rom the sole by planing
o ff the rough surfaces with pumice stone
English women give ease to their feet a fter a long walk
by bathing them in an in fusion o f r o sema r y leaves
S teep
the rosemary leaves a hal f ounc e t o a gallon o f w ate r
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M Y S ECRET S O F B EA U T Y
84
When cool bathe th e feet fo r twenty mi n utes in the mix
tu r e addi n g warm water now and then as the water in the
f oot tub cools
Fo r feet i n clini n g to excessive p erspiration a powder made
o f these ingredients should b e used in the footbath "
Tannin 60 grains ; alum 2 drams lycopodium 6
d r ams One teaspoon ful o f the powder to a gallon of warm
water is su fficient
S e n sitive feet are m u ch relieve d b y this remedy which
is popular i n Engla n d
Rosemary leaves 72 pound ; j uni p e r berries 3 ounces ;
d r ied mi n t V2 ou n ce Boil in three quart s o f water
Corn s are me r ely hardene d portions o f the skin usually ap
pea ring upon the top o f the toes Each speaks loudly o f
pressure by sh oes No Indian ever had a corn u ntil he
be gan wea r i n g the white man s boo ts Corns and bunions
a r e the reco r d o f the f act that t he shoe as many wea r it
is a n instrument o f torture I f the corns be new and n ot
—
deep seated they c an be removed b y sel f t r eatment
S oak the feet from fi fteen to t wenty minute s in warm
water s o ftened by a fe w drops o f violet ammonia o r o f
be n zoi n B ind a Slice o f lemon o n the toe s tying it securely
with a bandage o f white muslin I f the corn r espo n ds
naturally to the treatment it should be so loose after three
or four applicatio n s that you can push it out by ge n tle fric
tion with a t o wel Never use your finger nails in extracti n g
a corn no matter how l oose it seems B loo d poisoning
might result
I f the case is more ob sti n at e this a p plie d with a small
c am el s hai r bru sh Sh o uld be quickly e ffi cacious
2 grams ; alcohol
Collodio n 4 grams ; ether ( 6 5 per
pe
r
g
r
am
ti
n
cture
of
Cannabis
Indica
I
;
5
(9
1
g ram ; salicylic acid
gram
L ess exp ensive is this "
C ollodion I ounce ; salicylic acid I d ram ; flui d extract o f
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W
H AT
D O F OR
TO
THE F EET
85
In d ica I scruple Apply several times a day
until the corn is so ft enough to be scraped away
I f the co r ns are o f the soft variety that grow between
the toes absorbent cotton powdered with tan n i n or alum
may be inse rted between them Ri n g plasters to p rotect
the corn from further ir r itation by the shoe have their
friends an d foes I think it much wiser to remove the p r es
s ure permanentl y by abandoni n g the shoes that caused it
Bunions o r enlarge d and inflamed j oints are the greatest
a ffl iction to w h ich su ff eri n g feet can be subj ected A new
bro ad pair o f shoes with low heels is the best remedy To
assis t this reme dy the j oints may be painted three times a
d ay with this simple but strong bunion lotion
Tinct ur e o f iodine 2 d rams carbolic acid 2 drams
glycerine 2 d rams
A dainty foot powder should be o n every woma n s toilet
shel f o r table especially i f her feet perspire freely An ex
c ellen t one is made like this
Florentine orris p o wder 1 0 0 grams ; starch 1 00 g r ams ;
alcohol 1 0 g r ams ; phe n ic acid 5 grams This should be
sprinkled o n the foot before dressing it especially through
o u t the summer
A n d here is still anothe r f o ot powde r which I hav e used
fo r a long time sprinkling a hal f ounce o f it int o a f oot
tub holdi n g two gallons o f water o r dusting my feet with
it after the bath
Powdered alum I o u nce ; powdere d boracic acid 2 ounces ;
talcum 4 ounces ; sta r ch 6 ounces ; a few drops o f perfume
at pleasure
This yet simpler pow d er is much used fo r p erspiri n g
feet
P owdered orris root I ounce ; powde red alum yz ounce ;
rice powder 3 ou n ces
The nails should be c u t square across except when the
formation of the toes ac qui r ed by close pressure o f the t oes
C annabis
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MY
86
S ECRET S
OF
BEA U T Y
each other demands that the nail b e cu t ro u n d to a d apt
it s el f to the shape o f the toes
At the first sign o f an ingr owing to e nail each o f two
simple remedies may b e used The corner o f the nail at
the Side where the toe is inflamed may be gently lifted and
cotton thrus t beneath it to relieve the p ressure Also at
the middle o f the upp er edge of the nail a t iny V may he
c ut
Natu r e in extra e fforts to heal this breach in the n ail
withdraws her forces fro m the irritation of the side of the
toe
L ight massage by a skillful masseuse is greatly bene
fi c i al to tired feet
Dancers pedestrians and female
cyclists have use d this u nguent rubbing it well into the
muscles and about the j oints to make them more flexib le
P ortugal ext r act I ounce ; r o sewater 1 ounce ; brandy
I gill ; olive O il 3 ounces ; mutton tallo w 4 ounces ; virgin
wax I ounce ; amberg r is V2 grain
Walking barefoot in the early morning is still a fad o f
many society women and actresses and singers who have
regard for the health o f their feet Besides the beauty of
t he foot a n d the elastic carriage so secured walking with
ba r e feet upon the bare earth is believed by ma n y physi
e iaus to be very be n eficial in ce r tain cases
It is r eco m
me n ded als o as a tonic for the nerves
A good exercise to develop the elasticity o f the foot is to
sit with the fee t scarcely reachi n g the flo o r and press the
fore p art of the sole upon the flo o r This also strengthens
weak ankles
No woman is ev er p retty while her feet hurt ; and a
horrid male pe rson has been ungallant enough t o say that
the awkwardest thi n g in natu r e is a woman with a sore
”
foot
That he didn t exaggerate we must admit
What shall we do to stop this weari n g o f beauty this
most excruciating of the minor physical ills " We should
first look to the cause
u po n
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W
H AT
D O F OR
TO
THE F EET
87
skin between the toes cracked an d sensiti v e " It
is po ssibl e that this i s a symptom o f a uri c aci d condition
S ee your physician and let him determine whether it is so
If you have j oined the grea t army o f those who ha v e the
uric acid diathesis be treated accordingly I f the cracks
between the toes are caused by the feet being excessively
hot eith er o f these shoul d complete a cu re in a short time "
S prea d z inc ointment over the cracke d s u rfaces ; o r
po wd er them thickly with Fuller s earth
If the feet are bathe d every nigh t before retiring in tepi d
water into which a little borax o r common table salt has
been sprinkle d there is little likelihood o f se n sitive
swollen feet o r o f hardene d o r calloused portions o n the
feet As the e v ening f oot bat h is a preventative s o is i t a
cure for such conditions u nless they have reached an ex
—
treme stage I f s o a f ter care f ull y d ry ing t h e f ee t
being
careful to dry them thoroughly between the toes so that
no soft corns will form there — rub the swollen portions
o f the feet gentl y with witc h hazel ; o r t h e har d callouse d
o
rtions
with
olive
oil
col
d
c
r
eam
r
o
p
Keep several pairs o f shoes so that you nee d not wear
the same p air on tw o successive days Wear a di fferent
pair o f hose each day tur n i n g wrong side out and leaving
to air the pair that you have worn the previous day
—
If the feet perspire this r emedy is a goo d on e
a p ply it
by dusting the feet with it
Borax I O grams ; starch 1 0 grams ; salicylic acid 3
grams ; powdere d alum 5 grams ; t alcum powder 5 0 grams ;
naphthol 5 grams
This simpler p reparation can be applied with a camel s
hair brush
Distilled wate r
pint ; bichromate o f potassium I %
drams essence o f violet I dram
The masculine habit o f resting the f eet upon ano the r
chair than the one occupied by the sitter has i ts origin in
I s the
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M Y S ECRET S O F
88
BEAU T Y
the instinct
sel f preserv ation The bl oo d flows foo freely
into the legs and feet that remain too long in a suspende d
position engorging the veins and causing discomfort It
is this condition which men seek to relieve by placi n g their
feet on desks and chairs I t is a habit which women may
well imitate when alone
at l east to the limit o f the hei ght
The long chair o f the F r en ch mee t s the
o f a chair seat
need o f allowi n g the legs t o lie o n a level with a port ion
o f the b ody while the upper part is in a sitting po sture
Rest the feet by wearing larger shoes an d only cot ton
stockings Wear san d als witho u t stockings in yo u r ro om
o n warm days
of
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M Y S EC R ET S O F
9
9
BEA U T Y
The pleasing mouth has lips that curve from thin o u t e r
corners to a ripe fullness at the middle The sweep should
be upward to a fine cleft at the middle o f the upper lip
A deep cleft j ust above the upper li p is o n e o f the recog
n i z e d marks o f beauty
The lowe r lip should be st r aighter
a n d not s o full as the upper Much has been said about
the beauties o f the lips but nothi n g has been said more
illumi n ative tha n t he phrase Cupid s bow
S tudy the ge n tle sweep o f a bow hel d i n place by a cord
”
It adheres to the rule
Curves are the lines o f beauty
The curve is soft te n der It seems to b e the ble n ding of
countless curves S o the mouth I once s aw the mouth
like a slit in a sto n e
o f a cruel woman described as bei n g
”
wall
I th o ught the phrase apt
I believe in allowing the mouth to take ca r e o f itsel f
It is its surrou n di n gs i t s enviro n me n t s o to speak that is
impo r ta n t Look t o the li n es fro m nost r ils to lips S ee
that they are remove d by massage Massage restores cir
culation Massage is like a syste m o f ir r igation for
waste land Creases are caused by lack o f circulation
The muscles that hold the mouth in a fi r m li n e are thread
like o n e j ust above and at the sides o f the lips It is most
impo r ta n t to keep these taut by massage
As to color I have said that the lips should not b e too
red The n ormal lips should b e the sa me color as the
gums a n d has n ot your de n tist said to you
Your gums
are too re d are not healthy
S o the lips Should be a deep
pink o r a light red Not blood color but three shades at
least lighter than a stream o f arterial blo o d I mak e this
distinction because ve n ous blood may be bluish and far
from a model for the health ful color o f the lips
An Italian authority o n beauty said the beautiful mouth
must always be open enough to Show fi ve teeth This is
att ractive but no t hygienic The teeth are to the beauty
o f the mouth as imp o rtant as t h e keystone to an arch
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C ARE O F
TH E
M O U T H A ND
TEE T H
1
9
Without the keystone there can be no arch Without lov el y
The lips are
t eeth the beauty o f the mo u t h does not exist
a promise o f beauty The teeth are its fulfillment
The teeth shoul d be regu lar The y shoul d not b e
crow d e d together and there Shoul d be no aggressively n o
The y sh oul d be white o r
t i c eab le spaces be tween the m
seem white The u n romantic truth is that teeth are
never white The y are o f three sha d es blue y ellow and
gray always o ne o r the other B ut in contrast with the
lips they loo k white and the more vivid the lips the whiter
do the teeth look in contrast Which is the reason I s u p
i
r
r
m
n
e
d
a
e
c
se
that
I
ha
v
seen
women
with
f
r
ightfull
y
o
v
e
o
p
li ps
No w how to make the mouth or keep the mouth well
shaped red but not too red and teeth to be o r look perfect
The time to train o u r mouths to beauty i s in o u r in fancy
Ou r mothers shoul d begin the wo rk an d w h en w e have
reached years o f intelligence w e shoul d carry it forward
I f an infant s mouth is too la rge it c an b e trai n ed to
lesser siz e by tender pinching o f the corners This makes
the line at the corners almost indeterminate and dimin
ishes the size Need I tell any mother that this must be
most gently and tenderly d one " Al so train the lips to
deepen their beauty cle ft by pushing the mid d le portions
together with the first fingers This light pressure fou r
o r five times a day when you are dressing the child in the
morning an d undressing her at night will marvelously r e
fashion the mouth I knew a P arisian mother who not
only ma d e over her c h ild s mouth but also t he nose into
good lines by this light discreet pinchi n g
I f your mouth is de fective improve the shape o f your
lips by av oidi n g careless habits Ma n y pretty women are
d isfigu r ed by crude careless habits o f mouthing their words
o f chewi n g their lips of ridiculous labial contortions while
they talk
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M Y SE C R ET S O F B EA U T Y
2
9
T 0 correct them p ractice in talking o r reciting be fore a
mirror Note whether you draw down the lips wh i le you
speak Note whether you catch them between you r teeth
a n d nerv ously chew them Observ e whether while you
make a Short speech lo n gitudinal li n es form on the upper
lip Notice whether you r smile is simple natural u n ex
agg e r at e d
o r whether your mouth widens vacuously o r
d r aws i n to a pri m resembla n ce t o a buttonhole when you
smile When you have dete rmined whether y ou have any
o f these bad habits dete r mi n e to cu r e them a n d d o s o
There is but o n e w ay to cure them an d that is b y remem
beri n g you r fault a n d avoidi n g it
The lips should be lightly massaged before falli n g asleep
For that massage this is my favorite pomade You will
obse r ve that i n n o p r epa r atio n that I advise fo r the lips is
any ca mphor I dislike camphor for the lips because it is
an astringent and the mouth is too much incli n ed to pucker
i n t o u n lovely li n es without its aid Try this
Oil o f sweet almonds 1 2 5 grams ; white w ax 2 8 g r ams ;
spermaceti 2 8 grams ; o i l o f bergamot 1 gr am ; o il o f g e
ran i u m 2 g r ams
This so ftens the lips e ffacing the tiny lines that fo r m in
the lips destroying their smooth surface du r i n g the day
It c an be varied by another a n d simpler remedy
Hydrated glycerine ( 5 0 per ce n t water ) 60 grams ; r ose
water 2 0 grams
D o not use glyce r i n e alone o n the lips n or on any other
s u r face of the bo dy It is too d rying It has the power
to d raw moist ure f r om the ski n and t hat moistu r e shou ld
by replaced by the water with which the glycerine is mixed
Leaving the shape we come to the color o f the lips
P reserv e that by keeping the bo dily health goo d I f the
circulatio n is de fective the lips will b e pale I f we becom e
a naemic pallid lips will be o n e o f the fir st signs of ou r
state T o m ak e them healthily red improve the tone of the
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S E C RET S
MY
94
B EAUTY
OF
by being an interes te d listener Wild aimless excessively
ex cited talking is one of the biggest leaks o f beauty
The mouth i f t oo large may be lightly massaged by
using the middle fingers o f each hand to coax it t oward the
g r eater fullness at the middle and less at the corners If
it be too small rotary massage from the corners o f the
lips will tend to widen it
I f the chin be too strong the jaw too hea vy as it is
su r e to b e in thes e latter days o f n ew equality the fact
can be rendered less gl a ring by d ressing t he hair well for
ward above the forehead so that there will be a semblance
o f b r ow and chin being o f equal weight an d the face seem
to be well balanced I f the chin is too weak the hair
should be well draw n back so that the strengt h o f t he brow
will seem to make u p the character d e fi cit
F or lip s th at chap easily and always have a parched look
let me advise that this poma d e be ap p lie d every night freely
massaged into the lips
Cocoa butter 2 4 grams ; white wax 4 grams ; o i l o f rose
geranium I gram
Thi s s ho u l d relieve an ordinary case I f it be an ob sti
nate one s uppose you try this remedy prescribed by the
famous D r V au cai r e whose comman d ments are the deca
l ogue o f beauty loving P aris "
Castor oil 6 grams ; coco a butter 20 grams ; o i l o f birch
f
drops
extract
ca
echu
grams
essence
o
star anise
f
t
2
o
;
;
4
1 0 drops
To make rough lips smo oth t ry th i s
Oil o f sweet almon d s I o u nce ; spermaceti 1 ounce ;
white wax
ounce ; o il o f rose 6 drops Melt together
s lowly then work into a fi rm cream
The gu ms should be o f a healthy red I f they look pale
massage them gently for five minutes several times a d ay
with thi s co mpound "
Woun d wo r t water 1 00 grams ; horseradish extract 1 2
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CA RE
OF
TH E M O UTH
TEET H
A ND
95
grams ; oil o f clo v es 1 d rop D ilute with an equal q u antity
o f water
T he wholesome woman tri es to k eep her breath as sw e e t
”
as the ki n e s recalli n g the exclamation o f Byron S he
keeps a j ar o f bicarbonate o f soda on her bathroom shel f
and takes a teaspoonful in a glass o f water wheneve r
needed S he always d ri n ks two o r three glasses o f cool
water sl owly on rising This is because when the stomach
is in the tubular shape that it is in the morning it lends it
sel f easily to the work done by the water o f cleansing the
stomach for its work o f the d ay T o correct aci d condi
tio n s o f mouth o r stomach s he takes a couple o f unsweet
e n ed charcoal tablets now an d then an d this is her favori te
mouth pastille
Unsweetened choco l a te 1 % o u nces ; white sugar
ounce ; charcoal powde r V2 ounce
These are mo r e easily taken i f mixe d t o the consis tency
o f paste by the a d dition o f dissolved gum arabic
coole d
and cut int o tablets
For the care and p reservation o f the t e eth four things
are essential T he y are " P rope r d iet proper tooth brush
proper t o oth pow d ers o r pastes an d proper mouth baths
But beyon d any doub t the fi rst safegu ar d is to have a
reliable skillful dentist —i f yo u can make sure o f findi n g
one
O ne may go o n for years with f alse con fid ence in a
dentist be fore o n e fi nds o u t her s ad mistake
I go to a d entist once a month to hav e my teeth exam
i ne d
No o ne sh o uld let more t han three months at most
pass without a visit to the dentist for an insp ection o f the
teeth
The best dentist is none t oo goo d The careless o r i g
n o r an t o r lazy o r dishonest dentist ma y ca u se irrep arabl e
damage And the saddest part o f it is that we are at the
mercy o f the dentist because we cann o t know whether his
work is goo d o r bad until the damage is done
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MY
6
9
S EC R ET S O F
BE AU T Y
There o ften come o n the teeth pa r ticularly between the m
where foo d is permitted t o lodge small dark stains which
really are the fi r st wa rn ings o r p r emo n ito r y sign s o f deca y
I f allowe d t o remain the enamel eve n tually disintegrates
and we have a cavity which must then be excavated and
fi lled B e fore this disco loratio n has adva n ced to an actual
b r eaking down o f the tooth st r uctu r e it may very p rope r ly
a n d successfully be removed or polished away by the de n
t i s t s engine and the sa n dpaper disc used for this pu r pose
a n d f or smoothi n g gold fillings
The ho n est dentist will do this a n d restore the tooth to
its original color a n d sou n d n ess after which it may be
with care indefinitel y preserved but the u n sc r upulous den
t i s t may o f course construe this suspicious looki n g spot as
caries and h e may wickedly cut away sou n d t ooth surface
fill in with the custo mary unsightly gold o r amalgam a n d
the unsuspecti n g victim pays the bill a n d departs no n e the
wiser O f course in front teeth it is especially a mi s fo r
tun e to make a cavity where it could have been avoided
L et us co n side r now the diet We must avoid extremes
The English gi r l s answer to the question
Why d o you
might as well ha v e been
h ave such beautiful complexions
made t o another que r y "
Why do E nglish girls have such
”
beautiful teeth "
The girl replied
B ecause we neve r
e at anythi n g very sweet o r sour nor anythi n g very hot or
”
cold
That is an excelle n t rule
Who ever follows it will ado p t an admirable dietary
A ls o live i f possible in a region whose soil is strongly i m
with
lime
n
a
t
d
re
e
p g
That i t s soil is so strongly im p regn ated with lime is t he
r eason why the Bluegrass region of Ke n tucky is as famous
for the beauty o f its women as o f its ho r ses Much lime
i n the soil means much lime in the products thereof and
whoever eats o f these products has st r o n g bones and corre
spondingly strong teeth B ut we may not all live in Ken
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8
9
MY
S ECRET S O F
BEA U T Y
mouth wash O r when the teeth have been irritated or u n
pleasantly a ff ected o r the gums irritated by a food or medi
cine to which they are unaccustomed it is well to rub
precipitated chalk about the n ecks o f the teeth and betwee n
the teeth I t is well als o to rinse the mouth with milk o f
magnesia at night be fore retiri n g
Again let me suggest that diet i s o f immense importance
fo r two reasons I f the diet be an unwise one it may create
an excess o f uric acid which makes itsel f ma n ifest in the
mouth a n d causes the teeth to decay about the necks that is
the portio n e n closed by the gums a state to be avoided
fo r the cavities thus formed are hard to reach and are the
most pain ful to be operated upon by the dentist
Agai n the diet is importa n t becaus e i f there is an undue
fermentati o n o r a n y other u n wholesome co n ditio n in the
stomach the gases and acids arisi n g from these discolor th
teeth
There fore avoid as I have said articles of diet that are
very sweet or very sou r a n d articles o f d r i n k that a r e ve r y
F o r example do not eat candy pastry
ho t o r very cold
puddings except those co n sisti n g chiefly o f fruit ices
pickles o r sour ora n ges o r grape f r uit Do no t drink sour
lemonade nor limeade Avoid i c e water o r very hot tea
I am extremely care ful about my diet quite as
o r co ffee
much for the care o f my teeth as fo r my complexion
As soon as I r i s e in the morning I place my tooth brush
which should b e s o ft and shaped to fit the teeth i n a mug
I let it remain there for a hal f hou r until
o f hot water
I have had my bath and my alcohol rub This hi n t I r e
w ho said that it woul d make the
c e i v e d f r om my dentist
bristles soft besides swelling th e m so that they would fill
the spaces for them in the brush and thus p r eve n t the
bristles from loosening and d etaching themselves from the
brush a n d i rr itating the gums
Always u s e a good tooth p owder or paste which a reli
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C A RE
TH E MOUTH
OF
TEET H
A ND
99
able chemist has analyzed and pronounce d pur e S imple
pleasant and beneficial to g u ms and teeth is this
Camphor gum 1 ounce ; p recipitated chalk 5 ounces ;
pulverized orris root 3 ounces
A good variant o f this is the foll owing
P recipitated chalk M po u nd ; powdere d starch M
pound ; powdered orris root M po u n d ; sulphate o f q uinine
dram
M
One o f my own f avorite pow d ers is ma d e according to
this formula " Carbonate o f magnesia pow d ered 3 ounces ;
powdere d orris root I o u nce ; powdere d sugar 1 ounce ;
castile soap M ounce ; pow d ere d precipitate o f chalk 1 0
ounces ; oi l o f roses 2 5 d rops ; oil o f lemon 5 drops ; oi l o f
W intergreen 5 drops ; tannin 1 5 drops
I recommend als o this as help ful an d agreeable
Precipitated chalk M pound ; powdered borax M
pound ; p ow d ered myrrh M po u n d ; powdere d orris root
dram
M
Another simple and e ffective preparation is th i s
Powdered chalk 2 ou n ces ; o i l o f peppermi n t 2 drops
A good antiseptic p owder for occasional use I have found
to be this
Bicarbonate o f soda 1 ounce ; cinnamo n 1 ounce ; o i l o f
cinnamon 2 drops
I f my teeth a r e discol o red I brush the m thoroughly with
this powder
S ugar o f milk 2 00 grams ; powdere d catechu 3 grams ;
o i l o f peppe r mint
i
f
i
l
f
drops
drops
o
l
anise
o
o
o
;
;
4
4
ora n ge flower 4 drop s Pour i n to the sugar o f milk a
few drops o f alcohol Add the catechu stirri n g them thor
oughly S ift them through bolting cloth and spri n kle the
o i l o f peppermint
the o i l o f anise and the o il o f orange
flower into the powder
Another which is less expensive and is also excellent is
this
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MY
1 00
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
P recipitated chalk
g r ams ; pulverized orris ro ot 2 5 0
grams ; pulverized campho r gum 1 2 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5
per
1 0 drops
This should be Sifted through bolting
cloth to remove lumps that might irritate the gums
It has always bee n my habit to use powder only once a
day and that i n the mor n i n g I thi n k it enough because too
much tooth p owder i n time wears away the e n amel Yet
my dentist tells me that the best time to use tooth powder
is at night because the saliva ry glands being quiet duri n g
sleep when we do not talk or eat do not then secrete the
saliva whose flow has a cleansi n g action
After each meal I use dental floss drawing it between
the teeth to remove any particles o f food that may have
lodged between them Hard toothpicks are liable t o crack
the enamel Also I give the mo uth a bath t hat is I thor
oughly rinse it several times with a good mouth wash
O f preparations for liquid de n tifrices and mouth baths
”
there is no e n d This the bath o f r oses is my favo r ite
a n d I rinse my mouth with it after each meal and before
retiring
Ti n cture o f orris ro o t 8 d rams ; spirit o f roses 8 fluid
drams alcohol 9 5 per cent 8 fluid drams
A n ag r eeable p r eparation for a mouth bath is made o f
Powdered borax 3 drams ; honey water 2 ou n ces ; cas
tile soap ( powdered ) I ounce ; warm water 1 pint ; oil o f
cloves 2 drops
Dissolve the powdere d soap in the warm water Add the
other i n gredients and shake well
Either of the followi n g washes will be found excellent
fo r the teeth
Ta nn ic acid 1 ounce ; o i l o f W interg r een 1 d ram ; p o w
dered orris roo t 4 ounces ; alcoh o l 4 ounces ; water 4
ounces
T i n c tu r e o f orris root I ounce ; tincture o f musk 4
drops ; o il o f rose 2 d rops ; oi l o f neroli 4 drops ; oil o f
0
0
5
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MY
102
f ul
S E C RE T S OF
B EAU T Y
it i s w o rth w h ile F o r a tiny space b u t an und u e
may change the natural expression
o ne between the teeth
I kno w an A merican statesman whose face
o f the face
i s o f t h e strong noble lines o f a statue o f granite but who
takes on a fatuo u s exp ression when he smiles because there
is a considerable space between his two upper front teeth
A fte r the teeth are drawn into their p r oper place t hey are
secured by small bands o f gol d o r by a ro d at the back o f
the teeth
I f the teeth are permanently discolored it may be because
you need a dentist s services It is well to call o n him at
least every three months Every two months is still bet
ter H is examination will Show any fault in the teeth that
may be a ti n y o ne but which i f neglected for th r ee m onths
longer would be troublesome Frequent visits to c on s ci en
tious d entist s ar e best for y o u r teeth and best for your
purse
The teeth are th e most important o f the app ointments the
furnishings s o to speak of the mouth They must be kept
pe r fect at all costs o f care and forethought But they like
all portions o f a woman s body must be delicately t r eated
Tooth powder should not be used more than once a day
F o r the rest dental floss and a
A nd that in the m o rning
delicate li quid dent r i fic e a fter each meal an d before retiring
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CHAPTER
D U TI ES
EV E R Y
V III
W O M A N O W ES
T O H ER
H AI R
T i s Monday and I note that my hair does not respon d
readily to the b r ush ; that it lies lifeless under my fi n
ge r s ; that i n stead o f bei n g a li v e b u shy glowi n g mass it
has diminished to a wisp scarcely larger than my two fi n
gers It is as though some witch in a rage ha d plucked it
hair by hair from my head as I slept
But that has happened too often t o give me alarm Once
I wept over it
I thought that I was to become as the
shiny headed men that s i t in the first rows o f the opera and
stare a n d stare But that w as lo n g ago Now I kno w
when my hair shows these symptoms that it is dead but
o n ly temporarily and that with care I can resu r rect it
make it live agai n
With this lifeless condition o f the hai r I hav e always
found two corresp onding c o nditio n s o f the scalp The
scalp is hot and dry Also the brushing reveals dandru ff
—light fi ne an d profuse It is a condition that must b e
corrected
First remov e the d andr u ff H ai r cannot thrive w h en
that fine light powde r lies upon the scalp obstructing its
pores To rid one s sel f o f it the hair must be w ashed n o t
once but often I resolve upon washing it eve ry day for a
week I choos e the time when I have had my bath I n
t he water I hav e dissolve d hal f a cake o f the best soap I
can get I f upon analysis it is proven to be made o f sper
maceti all the better
I always have a n ew soap analyzed
as I do a new cold cream
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MY
1 04
S EC R ET S O F
BE AU T Y
part my hai r and dipping a small brush the size o f an
o rdi n ary toothbrush into the water
r ub the pa r ting vigor
o u s ly
I part it again and rub that pa r ti n g a n d the next
a n d the nex t scrubbing it as you say i n thi s Country st r e n
u o u s ly with the brush dipped i n soapy wate r
When this has been do n e I empty the bowl a n d i n a se c
o n d water in which the othe r hal f o f the cake of soap is
dissolve d I wash the hair again but this time r ub the scalp
n ot with the brush but with my fi nge r s The n again an d
again and again until the water is as clean as whe n it ru n s
from the faucet I rinse the hair
Now comes the problem o f d ry ing it The hai r that is
dried in the hot funnel becomes brittle a n d cracks If it is
d r ied by d r aughts o f cold air its ow n e r contracts n eu r algia
It Should be d r ied first by a b r isk toweli n g The towel
should be rubbed quickly through the hair a n d upo n the
Scalp taki n g the fi r st d r ippi n g stage o f moisture from each
The rest o f the dryi n g should be done by the
o f them
heat o f the hands With the tips o f the fi n ge r s every bit
o f space o n the scalp should be rubbed u n til dry
A s the scalp d r ies the hair dries too
Last that the hair
may not ha ng together in matted stra n ds but sta n d fl u ffily
each hair for itsel f there should be the last stage o f the
dryi n g This is the rubbing o f the hair st r a n d by stra n d
between the hands Even this o n e shampoo will p r ove
that the hair that seemed to be dead is a fter all ve ry much
alive
After the d rying the hair shoul d o f course be brushed
—adequately brushed But there are curious ideas among
women in this country as to what is adequate brushing
Ame r ica n friends o f mine give the hair o n e hu n dred eve n
two hundred strokes I think this is too ma n y E x ce s
sive b r ushi n g drags upon the hair and lo o se n s its roots
E or ty s t rok es o f the brush I be lieve to be quite enough
i s n ee d e d by a 11
i
h
t
r e mass a i
a
L ess brus h mg
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MY
1 06
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
until the mixture is as black as after dinner co ffee
Usually fi fteen minutes are quite enough Pour it i nt o
two more quarts of col d water and place in a gallon j ar
Massage the scalp with it after the shampoo This is a
favo r ite p reparation in F r ance There no grease nor oil
is used o n the hair
To encourage the hair t o grow an application o f a good
quini n e mixture is a great aid Duri n g the after n oo n of
the second da y that I go into seclusion fo r my hair s sake I
massage the scalp lightly with such a tonic O r I apply it
before going to bed Many o f the quini n e mixtures sold
in the drug sto r es I have used with good e ffect after hav
ing had the m a n alyzed by chemists
He r e is a preparation which a f r ie n d becomi n g bald used
to secur e a splendid new lot o f hair Were I in s o serious
a state I might als o use it
Precipitated sulphu r 1 0 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5 per
1 0 grams ; distilled water 5 0 grams ; r osewate r 5 0 g r ams
And here is another which were my case radical I woul d
use "
1 00 grams ; acetone 1 0 0 grams ;
Alcohol ( 9 5 per
2 0 grams ;
o i l o f cade
10 grams ; precipitated sulphur
pyrogallic acid 2 grams ; ch r ysopha n ic acid 2 0 ce n tigrams ;
bichloride o f mercury 4 0 centigrams
O n Wed n esday I would do that which ordinarily I should
do but twice o r three times a year
I would si n ge the e n ds
Then again I would shampoo it with the
o f my hair
preparation for which I gave the fi r st recipe and would
again give it the to n ic o f air a n d s u n bath
A n d again I would use the camomile but i f o n e pre fers
to have the aid o f the d r uggist he r e is a preparatio n that is
much used in Lo n don with great satisfaction I shall give
it in the English measure
Resorcine 1 d ram chloral hydrate 3 drams s weet
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DUTIE S TO TH E HAIR
1 07
almon d o i l 1 d r am ; chloro form 6 drams ; eau de cologn e
6 ounces
On Thursday if my hair is not showing great improve
ment I may vary my shampo o H ere is an excellent
cleansi n g o n e
Extract o f witch hazel 1 pint ; eau de cologne 8 ounces ;
chloro form 3 drams
On Friday a n d S aturday I would repeat this shampoo
the massage and the s u n a n d air bath
By S unday with every mor n ing a sha mpoo a massage o f
the scalp for fi fteen minutes — not long enough to irritate
the nerves
and the sun and air baths and the repose one s
hair should be excellently vigorous I f the rigorous treat
ment Should hav e caused it to be t oo straight I would e n
courage i t to curl by the application o f rosewate r and gu m
arabic in these quantities
r
Q
a
m
00
ter
rams
s
a
R
o
e
w
s
;
4
M
g
Always in brushing the hair the strokes should be back
ward straight back instead o f to the Sides for in that way
the hair is aided to gro w lo w o n the forehead which is a
most desi r able mark of beauty
Before retiring I always braid my hair in two loose braids
I never use curling irons whe n I c an avoid it U s e the m
cautiously B et te r not at all especially i f your hair have a
natural wave
I f your hair persistently continues to f all o u t it i s p rob
ably because o f a gene r ally lowered tone o f your health
I Should then resort to iron o r a rsenic hypodermic i njec
tions under the direction o f a p hysician When I have
su ff ered from nervous exhaustion I have always taken this
t r eatment at a physician s prescription I have found the
iron particularly upbuilding I woul d r eceive an i n j ection
every day fo r ten days then rest three or four days then
begin again for another ten d ays until seven weeks hav e
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108
gone
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
Always at the end o f that time I have felt rej u
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v en a te d
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And a fter my complexion my hair w as the first to i m
prove Never attempt this without medical d i r ection I
repeat The inj ecti ns o f iron I pre fer r ed t o taki n g it i n
o
t er n ally thereby sav i ng the teeth from the bad e ffects o f the
iron Also the administeri n g o f medicines in this way pre
vents an unpleasant disturbance o f the stomach
I f there be an unconque r able obj ection to the i n j ectio n s
a physician will prescribe cod liver o il or tablets co n tai n i ng
quinine and phospho rus that are a tonic t o the system
I f the hair be prematurely gray I Should first take a
general treatment fo r t he system hoping that the gray hair
would fall out and a c r 0 p o f natural color appear Or i f
I could gain my own consent to dye my hair I Should go
t o a druggist s and as k fo r a safe solutio n o f he nn a
This
is the one hair dye which I can recommend It is ha r m
less but its range of useful n ess is limited for it o n ly dyes
the hair red It is prepare d like this "
Henna leaves 1 ounce ; boiling water 2 pints ; henna
owder
1
ounc
P
lace
the
henna
leaves
in
a
sto
n
e
j
ar
e
p
Pour over them the wate r Allow the liquid to sta n d u n
Then strain and heat until it
d isturbed for twelve hours
reaches the boiling point To the liquid add the henna
powder S tir thoroughly and strain once more The hair
must be thoroughly clean when it is applied s o the best
time to apply it is immediately after a shampoo
B ut do not place too much reliance upo n the henna
Look to the state o f your gene r al health and be sure to k eep
the scalp cool clean a n d moist If this is done the next
crop o f hair
for we raise new hair every three years you
k n ow — may come in the former natural color a n d the
former unwelcome gray may disappear befo r e the new
crop U s e a good hair tonic t o bring about that condition
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MY
1 10
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
woma n rarely su ff ers she makes her life more than ever
wholesome S he lives out o f doors the more S he takes
more regular Sleep and mo re nourishing food S he i s mo r e
than ever punctual and thorough as to he r exercise A n d
havi n g do n e all these s he may assist nature with this rem
edy which her less wholesome Sister has used with su c
cess to arrest the turni n g gray o f her hair
G ood claret 3 0 grams ; sulphate o f iron M gram To
use the cook s p arla n ce
B r ing these to a boil
Keep in
a well corked j ar in a cold place a n d wash the hai r with it
after each Shampoo I f necessary it can be used two o r
three times a week Permit the mixture to dry o n the hair
H ere is another wash that has proved success ful when
t he hair was turning g r ay
S ulphur 2 ounces ; bay rum 8 ounces
S ulphur to a degree strengthens the pigment — that i s
the natu r al colori n g matter o f the hair Use the sulphur
in lumps for it will not adhere t o the scalp as will sulphur
in the powder state
If the case be beyond such relief a F r ench dressing
which those who use it disdain to call a dye is used by
bru n ettes whose hair has tur n ed p rematurely gray "
White wax 2 ou n ces ; olive o i l 5 ounces ; burnt cork
a
x
powdered
fine
I
ounce
The
white
and
oil
should
w
)
(
be melte d together over a sl o w fire Add the bur n t cork
and mix well The mixture should be applied to the hair
as a pomade a n d tho r oughly brushed in
Here is a goo d cor r ective for falling ha 1r
Oil o f sweet almo n ds 2 ounces ; alcohol 2 gills ; a qua
ammonia 2 ounces ; go o d whiskey or rum 4 ou n ces ; gum
camphor M ounce S hake thoroughly each time before
using a n d rub thoroughly into the scalp Massage your
scalp well so that you can feel the skin o f the scalp
move
F or a scalp that is to o oily u se borax o r bicarbonate of
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D U TIE S
TO TH E HAIR
I I I
so d a in t he we ekly s hampoo A blon d e o f m y ac qu aint
ance believes tha t the j uice o f o n e lemon used in the last
rinsing water after a shampoo a d ds to the brilliance o f her
”
hair while als o drying it enough to make it flu ffy
Allow yo u r hair to be straigh t i f N at u re planned it so
Find some becoming metho d o f wearing it straight If
the ends ha v e become broken an d the hair is thin an d u n
e v en s et about raising a new and stronger crop B ut fi rst
prepare the soil for the new crop b y cleansing y our scalp
with frequent shampoos o ne e v er y other day i f necessary
an d by using on it a good o i l O live oi l is an admirable
agent fo r loosening and feeding a heat dried scalp Have
the e n d s s mge d o r clippe d Massage t he scalp ever y day
unless it is too ten d er to endure massage that often I r r i
tating the nerves which protest against s u ch treatment does
far more harm than good A few applications o f electricity
b y a physician f a miliar with y ou r cas e sho u l d s tim u late
the a n aemic scalp
A few y ears ago t h er e wer e alm os t no goo d h air t onics
Now there are many Almost any toni c contai ning a liberal
amount o f qu inine is a good hai rg ro wer H ere is o ne much
u s ed in P aris
O i l of almonds 6 o u nces ; oil o f rosema ry 2 d rams ; o il
o f mac e 60 drops
An excellent tonic f o r the scalp is
A lcohol M pint ; o i l of mace M ounce
One that has many advocates is this
1
Flui d extract o f j abo randi 2 ounce ; glycerine 1 ounce ;
s u lpha te o f q uinine
1 0 grains ; cologne
2 ounces ; rose
water 1 0 ounces ; ba y mm 2 ounces
T he wash that h as toni c properties in a dd ition to being
an excellent cleanser is made as f ollows
IO
P recipitated sulphu r 10 grams ; alcohol ( 9 5 per
grams ; d istilled water 5 0 grams ; ro sewater 5 0 grams A p
ply i t to the scal p a s all other tonics are applie d with the
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MY
1 12
S E C RET S O F
B E AU T Y
tips o f the fi nge r s o r a soft brush fo r in stance an old too th
brush
T hi s to ni c will keep the scalp cool clean an d moist an d
help pre v ent the hair falling ou t
Tinctur e o f cantharides ( alcoholic ) 1 ounce ; spirits o f
rosemary 1 M o u nces ; rose water 3 ounces ; aromatic vine
gar I M o u nces
P arisiennes have recently been washing their hair in
gasoline Not beca u se they believe that it will cause the
hair to g r o w but fo r the same purpose that it i s used upon
a spotted garment
to cleanse the garment and remove the
spots Also gasoline make s the hair so ft and silken o f
texture I am t ol d
I have myself u se d gasoline a few t ime s o n my hair
but always try to keep it away from the scalp as much
as possibl e I canno t b eliev e that gasoline is good f or
the scalp
I take the gasoline shampo o somewhat as I do the water
bath for the hair I wash it in a bowl o f the gasoli n e pour
o ut the fi rst bowl ful and wash it th r ough a n other then an
other until the last bowl ful is entirely clean Let as little
gasoline as possib le get to the scalp But the shampoo is
always taken o n the morning o f a clear day Never do I
have it done while there is a light o r fire i n the room I f
I did there would be no more Lin a Cavalieri Gasoline is
most inflammable an d o ne cannot be t oo care ful when
using it
N ever use v aselin e on the h air nev er n eve r I t is 11013
harm ful It is merely useless It no more makes the hai r
grow than would Spri n kling flour over the face make it
gro w It is derived from a mineral and nothi n g o f mineral
origin causes the hair to grow I neve r u s e grease on the
hai r Afte r the shampoo once a week I use the camomile
lotion I have already describ e d rubbing it in carefully
with the points o f the fingers an d o n no account permit
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M Y S EC R ET S O F B EA U T Y
1 14
and Clean will always describe it I f the s cal p b e cool
and clean the hair w ill be beautif u l I f the scalp be not
cool and clean the hair will speedily reveal that fact H ow
to keep it so during the summer is a probl em that every
woman must be careful to solve acco r ding to her surrou n d
ings and facilities B ut someh o w she must attai n that e n d
i f she woul d preserv e the beauty o f her hair
Keep it free fro m dust T o do s o it must be f requently
—
shampooed
twice as often I Shoul d s ay as in the winter
I f for instance it is your habit t o wash you r h air ever y
two weeks in winter try washing it every week in summe r
If it has required a weekly shampoo in winter y ou will u n
doubtedly find it necessary to wash it twice a week in mid
summer But you must j udge that yo u rsel f keeping before
you the two wor d s Cool and Clean which should
al w ays be your gui d es When the dust from the hair soil s
the fingers and brush it i s time for a shampoo even though
for a time the hair must b e washe d e v ery d ay The oh
servant o n e will n otice that so soon as the hair is unclean
it falls o u t
Also she will observ e tha t an itching scalp prece d es al
most immediately the falling o u t o f the hair With the s e
obj ect lessons in cleanliness she Shoul d resolv e to b e v i gi
lant S pare t he shampoo an d spoil the hair
A good shampoo espec ially for an itching scalp c on
tains beside the usual borax for softening the water an d
the castile soap for cleansing the scalp these
Apply
rubbi
n
g
b
t
f
2
c
e
s
fi
y
M i b
S ggi i j l
the whites o f the eggs thoroughly i n to the scalp with the
tips o f the fingers Afte r this application moisten the scal p
thoroughly with the lemon j uice diluted in o n e quart of
cool water
For the usual shampoo u n d er ordinary circumstance s the
e ssentials are "
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DUTIE S T O TH E HAIR
1 15
ard women say "
I wa sh ed m y hair yesterday
and to day it is as ba d as ever
I f that is true it i s you r
You did not give it a thoro u gh shampo o For
o wn fault
a thorough shampoo care and nicety are necessary
First prepare the water fo r a head bath b y pou r ing into
the stationary wa sh stan d or the po rtable washbow l o r
basin the soap shavings O ver these pour a q uart of hot
wate r With hands o r a long handle d spoon stir until the
soap has dissolve d an d the substanc e has become mere
lather P a r t the hair which I assume has previously been
well combe d from the top o f the middle o f the forehea d
to the back o f the neck M ake similar partings at the
sides and transverse partings h ere an d there as man y as
possible With the finger tips o r with a so ft old nail br u sh
scrub the scalp with this lather In this way go o v er the
scalp several times u ntil it tingles under you r v ery touch
and the skin is loosened f rom the scalp beneath When
a fine glow convinces you that this part o f the task is well
done attack you r hair
Dip your hands into the lather an d taki n g the hair b e
tween them wash i t thoroughly but carefully with light
touch as you would a fine handkerchief When this has
been thoroughly done empty the bowl an d wash the hair
through a secon d water If to use the hair dr esser s ex
”
pression the water r u ns clear you will kno w that the
hair is thoroughly washed I f the water is dark showing
that the lather has not thoroughly removed the dust apply
more lather Then again was h it in cool water The
rinsing is best don e with a spray It should be con
t i nu e d until t h e water pouring o ff the hair is as clea n
as when it flows fro m the hydrant The clearness
o f the rinsing water is the onl y criterion o f whether the hair
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M Y S E C RE T S
1 16
O F BEAUTY
cl ea n T h e rinsi n g water Should be g r adually cooled
but it should n ever be cold It is my opi n io n that cold
water is to o severe a shock t o the scalp
D ry the hair as carefully as you have washed it Never
dry with a hot air fu nn el nor at a radiator nor fireplace
nor stove The i n tense heat makes the hair brittle A
goo d brisk toweling is a method always available I f you
haven t time to dry the hair by toweling wait for the sham
p oo until you have time
I f you can s u n dry it so much the better S eated at an
open window shake the moisture out of the hair and as it
slowly dries massage the scalp with the fingers The proc
ess o f drying will be aided and neuralgia pre v ente d by
vigorous massage o f the scalp
This is an excellent time fo r the ha 1r 3 d aily airing The
hair needs ve n tilation as well as your room your lingerie
Every day it should be shaken out and
o r yo u r bed line n
allowed to blow about in the wind A balcony o f a summer
cottage is admirable for this purpose
I know an E nglish beauty who always gives h er hai r
its airing as she sits u n der an old apple t r ee in the back
y ard o f her father s home A f rie n d o f mine shakes her
hair down and sitti n g o n the deck o f her husband s yacht
lets the wind play hide and seek in it every afternoon A n
other friend retur n ing by steamshi p from he r vacatio n t r i p
to Maine sat up aloft and tumbling her hair about her
shoulders let the win d whip it at will
Form the habit o f always letting your hair d own when
you s i t alo n e in yo ur room This hal f hour or hou r s air
ing gi v e s the hair exercise as well When a hair ha n gs by
its roots it is gaini n g the s trength it loses while the hair
is b eing support ed upon the head by pins
If the treatment o f the hair has pas s ed the s tage o f p r e
dry falling hair can b e
v e nti o n an d reached that o f cu r e
helpe d b y this v ariant o f the shamp oo I hav e de scri be d "
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MY
1 18
S ECRET S OF B EAU T Y
.
While in y our room give the hair plenty o f res t an d ex
B oth are provided by brushing the hair an d letting
e rc i s e
it hang loose as long as possible in the su n and air baths
Usually the hair needs in summer at least o ne shampoo a
week u n less the hair b e extraordina rily dry O ne o f the
mat s v s ry simply "
b eS E
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t
a
s
a
b
a
p
g
z
a a
Fo
f 3 Elfy shampo o thi s is good for moist scalps
h
ed
a
v
s
“
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11
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s
ab c
a
,
1 q uart ; table salt 1 ounce ; qui
Alcohol ( 9 5 per
nine 1 6 ou n ce
I f you pass your holiday at the seash o re you will wel
come a formula that will keep the hair in curl Here is
o n e o f the best I know "
Gum arabic M ounce ; carbo n ate o f potash M ounce
glycerine M ounce ; rosewater 1 pint ; Po rtugal extract 2
ou n ces
Fo rtunate are you indeed if you come back from your
summe r outing with hair thick and lustrous and scalp cool
a n d loos e skinned as when you le ft But even if you hav e
achieved this your hair is certain to be faded for the sun s
rays while stimulating to the scalp diminish the richnes s
o f the hue o f the hair
The p r obability is that the scalp has been dried by the
heat and dust Mass age with cocoanut o i l o r the following
tonic
S weet almon d o i l 3 o u nces ; oil o f cinnamon 3 0 drops ;
1 ounce
o i l o f rosemary
L et me tell you o f an experience which taught me muc h
about the hair I was invited to an info rmal house pa rty
Arriving at an early hour in the morning I was met in the
hall by my charmi n g hostess S he was as lovely as ever
but there w as s o methi n g odd about he r something u m
u sual
S he laughed at the puzzle d look in my face
Yo u are
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DUTIE S TO TH E HAIR
1 19
e
wil d ered she said
I look di ff erent b u t yo u d o not
know ho w It is this I am resting my hair
Wo n derful woman " I cried
It is the great Amer
”
ican; common se n se
Then I saw that her lovely blon d hair short as is all
curli ng hair rested about he r shoulders in a golden shower
It was parted in the middle S he had always worn it in
a pompadour o r some modificatio n o f the pompadour Now
it was parted in the middle and combed as smoothly as
i t s rebelliou s luxuriance would permit away from that part
and flat upon the top o f the head Glistening from its
recent b ru shing it h u ng about her shoulders fresh combed
fresh brushed and with the faintest o dor o f a cleansing
tonic hangin g about it It ha d no ribbon about it No
hairpin confined it It was free It was resting after the
ni n e months toil o f a fashionabl e season
”
Every mo rning she said
it has ha d a t h orough
combing and slight brushing Eve ry night a slight combing
and thorough brushing The fi r s t week I gave it a sham
I continued until the last trace o f dan
p oo eve ry day
d ru if was gone A s u n dried Shampoo o f course Every
othe r sort except th e toweling I consider barbarous and
destructive to the hair Every afte r noon when the s u n
shone in my be d room window I have let down my hair
and s at where the breez e and sunshine came thro ugh the
O pen windo w
S itting there I h ave taken my hair between
my p alms a nd strand by strand have rubbe d it lightly u m
til every hair has ha d its bu rnishing When this was d one
I shook it ou t loosely between my thumb and fo refi ngers
s o that the win d an d s u n coul d reach every part o f the hair
”
and scalp
My friend s hair h ad made almost instant response to
the treatment Fro m being dead hair it had become live
as a galvanic battery
From being dull an d faded it ha d
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S E C RET S OF B E AUTY
MY
12 0
become rich and glistening All over he r scalp was the
fi n e first fuzz o f a new crop o f hair And the old galvan
i z e d hair had grown an inch lo n ger in one month
S he had experimented with vario us loti ons o r dry sham
poos This s he found the greatest cleanser an d tonic fo r
her hair "
Peruvian bark ( powdered ) 3 ounces ; rum 1 pint
An other aid to this summer rest o f the hair was a n ew
brush S he showed it to me It was a plain wooden
backed hair b rush with the bristles s et well int o the back
i n groups The b r istles in these groups were irregular
in order that they might reach all p arts o f the head the
long o n es pe n etrating the hair where it was thickest the
short ones s u ffic i ng for the parts where it was thin n est
S he adj ure d vaseline as I have advised my readers to
do It is a mineral o il and ca n not cause the hair to g r ow
Instead She rubs olive o i l o r bee f marrow well int o the
roots o f the hair at night softening the scalp and fe r tili z
ing a dry area
Also she varied these t reatments w ith this which being
a woman o f wide readi n g s he had c opied from The La n cet
1
ounces
q
u
i
n
ine
grains
Alcohol ( 9 5 per
;
;
4
5
casto r oil M ounce
Careful to massage the hea d gently ever y night after its
brushi n g she kept the scalp loose When it was hot she
cooled it by applications o f cracked ice in an ice cap S he
shu n ned the tempting fi n e tooth comb that removes dan
dru ff it is true but perpetrates atrocities u pon the scalp
as painful and disfigu r ing as scratches upon the face
O n ce a month she had her hair si n ged before a shampoo
Her g r eatest concession to the conventions was the slip
pi ng over her shining well curried mane a net o f exactly
the same sha d e which she wore at dinner
a token o f
”
respect for the soup and butter merely she explained
One hundre d strokes every evening before retiring are
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
12 2
S ulphate
grai n s ; fluid extract o f j abo ran di
1 ounce ; glycerine 2 ou n ces ; colog n e 4 ounces ; bay rum
4 ou n ces ; rosewater 2 0 ou n ces
The above is excelle n t also for hair that is t oo dry For
moist hair I advise a dry shampoo o r tonic treatment o f
this
Eau de colo gn e 4 ounces ; borax M ou n ce ; ti n cture o f
1
cochineal 2 ounce
S ome blondes whom I know use the following methods
to keep their hair light
Washing soda 2 tablespoonfuls ; water 1 quart D is
solve the soda i n the water and give the hair a thorough
shampoo with the mixture once a week i f neede d less often
i f necessary The susceptibility o f the hair to treatment
determines the number o f the t r eatments
A half dozen drops o f ammonia in shampoo shoul d k eep
the hair light Als o o ne teaspoonful o f p eroxide of hy dr o
gen in one q uart o f water will lighten witho u t 1nju r i ng the
hair
Bear in min d that whatever makes the hair d ry makes
it brittle an d use any prepa r ation discreetly studying the
e ffect o f on e or two applications o n the hair
Remember that headache is o ne o f the greatest foes o f
the hair Wh en my scalp is f eve r ish I sometimes apply
a rubber cap fille d with cracked ice for a hal f an hour o r
longer u ntil the congestion is removed
Never retire without brushing your hair The hair is
a dust trap an d no dai n ty woman would r etire without
removing the day s accumulation o f dust The b rush t ells
its o w n story o f the day s catch o f dust i f you take the
trouble to examine it After b rushing the hair loosen the
skin from the scalp by slow fi rm massage pressing the skin
towar d the crown
T hi s i s th e best tim e to appl y a h air t onic
A goo d h ai r
t onic i s ma d e o f
of
q uinine
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20
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D UTI E S T o TH E
O il
H AI R
12 3
mace 2 grams ; essenc e o f rosemary 60 grams ;
o i l o f sweet alrn on d s 3 0 grams
I hav e fo und that while I may p r otect my skin my eyes
my hands somewhat from the winds o f winter my hair al
ways su ffers from i t The wind I found dried the o il in
it making it harsh an d brittle Or d inary massage an d
brushing I di d not fi n d as use ful a s in the summer I t rie d
many remedies fo r the d ry con d ition o f the scalp w h ich
A t last I hit upon this whic h
o f course p roduced d ry hair
I rubbed well into the ro o ts o f the hair be fore retiring on
the night before m y s hampooing d ay "
Lanoli n 1 ounce ; sulphu r M ounce
L et me explain I d id not rub this hapha z ar d upo n the
scalp I have seen women dab a hair scalp emollient s o
carelessly upon the scalp here and there that they might
quite as well have le ft it u ndone an d employe d their t ime
fo r better purpo ses
I d id t his as thoro u ghly as I think
everything we u n d ertake shoul d be d one
First I combed the hair thoroughly d oing it slowly b e
ginning about an inch from the ends holding t he long hair
near the roots s o tha t rough c ombing might not pull it out
Then I bru she d it slowly b eginning at the roots and b rush
ing downwar d with long slow strokes to the v e r y en d I
parte d the hair into fi fty strands combing it smoothl y awa y
fro m each little parting
Then with fingers dippe d into the mixture o f lanolin
and sulphu r I began at the hair line an d w ith firm long
strokes the e ff ect o f which was to loosen the skin from th e
scalp I rubbed the mixture well into the roots From
the hair line I followe d the parti n gs to the c rown from
which it radiated This done and thoroughly done I u n
braided my hair and combed and brushed it o n ce more and
allowed it to hang loose for an hour o r more exercising
an d v entilating it
until I retire d when it was b raided
and tied
into two large loose brai d s an d tie d at the
of
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MY
124
S ECRET S O F
B EAU T Y
end with narrow ribbons I never use either elastic o r
thread to fasten the ends o f the h air for I think it breaks
the hairs maki n g the ends uneven
The next m o rning I have a shampoo O rdinarily I use
a lather of white castile soa p an d warm water But in
winter noting the dryi n g e ffects o f the cold winds upon my
hair I try to use a shampoo which will aid in maki n g the
hair soft and lustrous doi n g for the time the work o f the
natural oils which seem to have suspende d operations
Yolks o f 2 e gs 3; w arm water I qu art
he hair i ntg fifty Stan d s as I have d escribe d the
I pfi
night before and into each o f the partings and particularly
around the hair line which a woman can n ot a fford to neg
lect I rub the tips o f the finge r s with the yolks o f the eggs
u sing the tips o f the first two fingers When this has been
tho r oughly do n e I rinse the hair a n d scalp in warm water
”
After the hair has been through the first water I turn
upon the scalp a spray from a small hose one o f the small
size sprays now made fo r shampooing Thi s distributes
the water better and the force is not so great as when it
is poured from a p itcher in the old fashione d home way
The full force o f city water must never be used upon the
tender scalp The little sprays are C heap and a good invest
ment The shower from the spray can be gradually cooled
but I do not believe in extremes o f temperatu r e for the ha ir
any more than I do fo r the complexion I never use either
col d or hot water for a Shampoo no r cold water fo r rins
ing Warm t o cool water is a su fficient gradation that
s oothes the ne r v es of the scalp while dashes o f ho t and
cold wate r overstimulate and shock them
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MY
1 26
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
j ust be fore d inner a tepi d o r warm bath with a s h owe r
afterwar d as a cleanser
The col d bath is no t cleansing O n the contrary it
merely c l ose s t h e pores shutting the gates upon the e ffet e
matter that is trying to escape from the system by mean s
It is v aluable
o f the millions o f little gateways in the skin
as a tonic to the ne rv ous syst em by means o f the Shock
it gi v es t o that system But n o t ev en my lord man mighty
in his st rength shoul d take such powerful tonics without
ha v ing consulted his physician about it
A man who always seems to shine with the radiance o f
his bath po u rs a wineglass ful o f perfumed ammonia into a
tub o f water This softens the water removes the o d or s
o f pers p iration and whitens the skin
An exquisite w ho i s the fashion in L ondon uses a quarter
o f a pound o f borax in his bath to soften the w ater an d s o
re fi n e his skin
I once heard the story o f the physician with so admirabl e
a skin that all his women patients asked the secret o f his
complexion s perfection H e told o n e who generously told
many others that knowing the mighty power o f absorptio n
he had experimented with the u s e o f Epsom
o f the skin
salts in the bath He had found it stimulating and in con
sequence had used a pound o f the sal t s d issol v ed in a bath
tub ful o f water every day
A salt bath is stimulating Rubbing handfuls o f tab l e
salt o n the body get ti n g it into a fine glow before the bath
is on e means o f absorbing the salt into the system A n
othe r is pouring an ordinary fi v e cent bag o f table salt into
the water and letting it thoro ughly dissol v e before taking
the bath
But as k any well groome d man if baths are su ffi cient f or
cleanliness and h e will answer N o No man can be clean
”
unles s he walks f o u r to six miles a d ay
There m u st be
then three baths t he col d p lunge in the morning the natu ral
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W
h
fac e
o
M
AXI N E
E LLIO T T
m M m C a a l i i ad m i s
d fig u
b
als f
h
an
e
v
.
re ,
er
ut
re
o
or
no t o n
er
ly
ad m
c ss c
s
s
fo r he r l a i l i n e
i r a b l e t a te i n d re
of
ss
.
12 8
MY
S ECRET S O F
B E A UTY
stre n gthens the roots as walking strengthe n s the muscles
o f the legs or rowing the muscles o f the a r ms
Ev e ry man fears the ugly d ewlap often called the
H e can prevent this by carrying his head
s tatesman chin
and chin well up He can to some extent correct it by
u sing webbing chin ban da ges at night
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C HA P TER X
TH E C AR E O F TH E N A I LS A ND F I N G ER S
finger nails are N ature s fin ishing touch f or
a beautiful woma n They have always seemed to me
to be the n atural j ewels o f the hands and if they are in good
order that othe r j ewels ar e unnecessary if not super
A I NT Y
’
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fl uous
,
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Let me describe these j ewels at their best They are o f
color pink as the deep fresh heart o f a blush rose In
shape they are nearly like the fi lb e r t nut In size they a r e
in good propo rtion to the Size o f the fi nger and the hand
They must be neither too la rge nor too small They must
seem to be long They are more like the petals o f a hal f
blown rose o r the lining o f a sea shell than an ything else
in nature At their base must be a crescent tiny in p ro
portion to the siz e o f the nail but as clear cu t an d silvery
as a young moon o n the night o f its d ébut in the sky
Is there need to say that the othe r end of the nail b e
spotless as u tterly beyond suspicion as the character o f
Caesar s wife " Ther e must not be the slightest rim nor
shadow to darken the fair pi nkne s s o f the nails
The skin a b out them must s eem to bear but r emote and
casual relation to the nails It must be discourage d from
a n y i n timacy with the nail any close r intimacy shall we
"
say than the thorn y calyx with the rose
It serves i n
deed the same pur p ose It is the mer e protector o f its
cha r ming charge
Thus should the nails be But how to make and ke e p
them so is what we must d iscuss to da y In t he fir st p l ace
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129
,
MY
13 0
S E C RET S OF
B E AUTY
as to th eir d ail y care If they are in normally goo d co n
dition the mo rning hand bath should be supplemented by
soaking the nails themselves fo r five min utes in warm soap
suds o r lather made o f castile soap
This supplemental nail bath shoul d b e followed by a
careful pressing back with the to wel of the skin about the
nails until each portion o f the skin is d etached
A third step i n the daily care o f the nails is t o brush
them vigorously with a nail brush dippe d into the soap
s uds
Notice next whether any portion o f the skin about the
nails is still attached or if not attached is slightly sore
If it is that portion o f the nail should be anointed with
a bit o f campho r ice o r with vaseline o r la n oli n or a
preparation co n taining witch hazel I f necessar y wrap it
round with white musli n o r white silk
If in spite o f all these endeavors there remains a faintly
dark rim around the en d of the nail o n e fu rther process
is necessary Wrap around the pointed end o f an orange
wood stick a bit o f antiseptic cotton Moisten this with a
few drops o f peroxi d e o f hydrogen With this ca r efully
remove the d ust that may remain between the nail and the
Never use a steel instrument an ivo ry nail cleaner
S kin
o r anything harder than the cotton wrapped around the
I f you d o the sensitive skin u n
end of the oran ge s tick
d er the nail is lace r ate d Dust settles upon the ragged ends
an d the ugly d i s fig uring dark rim is evident
o f the ski n
I f the n ails become brittle it is because they are dry
Into
an d th e y should at once be moisten e d by an o i l bath
shall o w bowl pour a gill or more o f oli v e oil
a sma ll
S oak the nail in thi s for ten minute s o r longe r every even
ing u ntil the condition is correcte d I f for any reason
this is not feasible massage them every evening with cold
cream I f white spots appear under the nails rub t he nail
with slice s o f lemon
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MY
1 32
S ECRET S
O F B EAUTY
Most manicures assist the process by soaking the hands
alternately for five mi n utes a fter they have been filed The
palms o f the hands add a polish to nails that a r e not readily
suscept ible to the polisher You will find that the oftener
u
o
polish
your
nails
the
mo
r
e
s
u
sceptible
do
they
become
y
o f p olish
This nail pow d er len d s itsel f well to polishing
P ulverized starch M ounce ; boric acid pow dered M
ou n ce ; talcum powder M ounce ; tincture o f carmine 1 0
drops
Another wh ich I have use d satisfacto rily is composed o f
Oxide o f tin thoroughly p o wdered 1 0 drams ; oil o f
lavende r 60 d r ops ; tincture o f carmine 2 0 drops One half
o f this q u antity may be put up and will serve for ma ny
weeks
S till another good n ail p olish is made like this
Z inc oxide I ounce ; carmine 4 grams ; oil o f violet to
suit taste
This nail rouge is excellent
Fresh lard 1 dram ; finely powdered carmi n e M dram ;
o i l o f bergamot 1 2 drops
This which was d erived I am told f r om the Orie n t is
e ff ective
Chippings o f alkanet M ounce ; alcohol 9 5 per ce n t 1
ounce After this mixture macerates for o n e week it b e
comes a brilliant colo r Apply to the fi n ger tips with
j eweler s cotton blending it afterwar d s with more cotton
Personally I prefer to d o my own nails They should
be done every day to attain pe r fection Two o r three times
a week are needful and at least once a week essential
The purpose is to ke ep t he nail s clea n to make them
shapely to preserv e their color to adorn the tips o f the
fi ngers
I have tried to make my nails the exact shape of a filb e rt
I keep them ve ry p ointed an d do not sand p aper that is
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N AI LS AND F I N GER S
THE CARE OF
133
s orten them o ftener than twice a month But the d ail y
h
pr ocess i s this
F irst to study them in a good light an d t o s e e w h eth e r
the re be any stains o n the finge r s I f there are I r u b the
stai ns with pumice s tone until they have disappeare d
S eco n d I look care fully to the half moons at the bas e
They are as illuminating to the nails as the
o f the nails
I f they are well de fi ned I
n e w moon to the heavens
merely press the cuticle back gently when I dry my hands
But if they be overgrown with cuticle I give the m a bath
i n olive o i l Into a shallow vessel I pou r a half pint o f
olive o i l Into this I dip my nails holding them there fo r
five mi n utes i f they are but slightly overgrown fifteen
minutes i f extremely cove r e d with the cuticle Then when
the cuticle is so ftened I care fully go over each on e with a
li n en towel so ftly p ressing back the skin I f it clings o h
s t i n at e l
I
not
persist
but
resolve
that
the
fingers
must
d
o
y
have seve ral o i l baths Also I resolve that that night I
will rub them a s carefully with cold cream as I d o any
other part o f the hands In a week the half moo ns shoul d
sta n d beautifully reveale d I f not I continue the o il baths
in the mo rning an d col d cream applications at night until
they a r e visible
Third I twist abo u t the poin t o f an orange woo d stick
a bit o f cotton dip the en d into peroxide o f hydrogen and
rub the dampene d point o f the o range wood stick along
the inside o f the nail Mark that I sai d nail not skin
The reaso n s o many persons must kee p their nails short to
keep them clean is that they use sharp or j agged i n str u ments
to clean the nail a n d pressi n g this upon the skin beneath
The uneven edges o f the skin
t he nail makes it ragged
catch the dust and give the g r ay o r even black r i m that is
so ugly a border fo r the fingers
Fou r th with a C hamois I polish each finger nail b y three
o r f our strokes using the least touch o f nail rouge be fore
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S ECRET S
MY
1 34
OF
B E A UTY
th e p o lishing P ink nails are charming Re d nails are
horrible
Don t I beg allow your h a n ds to grow old Hands
unless well cared for bet r ay the age more quickly than does
the face
S tudy your hands well Don t let the skin grow coarse
Don t let the veins grow large Don t let the ski nha ng in
folds and creases about them Never allow the divorce o f
the skin from the muscles
The young hand is sm o oth and firm The o ld is rough
skinned and loose muscled In the youth ful hand the vei n s
are only faintly i n dicated In the old hands they stand
fo r th as whipcords When the ha n d is you n g the knuckles
are inconspicuous When it is old they are more promi n e n t
than any other part o f the ha n d There is between the
young ha n d and the o ld the same di fference there is b e
tween the thin bark o f a sappli n g and the thick rugged
bark o f a storm beaten o ld o ak The nails i n youth are
thin and pink In old age they a r e thick and yell o w
Knowi n g these signs the i n telligen t student o f beauty
culture will avoid them S he will discourage these symp
toms o f multiplyi n g years The cause o f aged hands is
the common cause o f bodily decay defective ci r culation
I f you note sign s o f ageing in your hands atte n d more
than ever before to the circulation Exercise promotes
circulation Exercise your hands particularly the finge r s
Fancy that you r fingers are but loosely attached to the
hands and that you are trying to shake them o ff Raise
them from the elbows a n d with the ha n ds bent at the wrist
vigorously shake them with fi n gers spread and loose ( 1 )
S hake them f r om r ight to left and back again ( 2 ) S hake
them up and down ( 3 ) S hake them round and round
Invent exercises o f your own Any movement that will
cause the blood to fl ow at an increased rapidity will r enou r
We rea d in poem and
i sh and so rej uvenat e th e h an d s
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S ECRET S
MY
136
OF
BEAUTY
will run out o f the minstead o f downward so that the bloo d
will run into them
Also to avoid this congeste d condition o f the han d s that
distends the vei n s unbeco mingly avoid lifting heavy weights
F o r lifting anything o f heavy weight st r etches the hands
maki ng them larger and o v e rfi lli ng the blood vessels
Eve n pia n o playing enlarges the ha n ds that reach the oc
taves a n d to some extent causes swollen vei n s The beau
ties o f the old French courts s o well u n derstood this that
they never use d their hands when it was avoidable
Enla rged knuckles o n e O f the sign s o f age c an be p r e
vented by avo iding overwork a n d car ryi n g heavy weights
I f the k n uckles b e natu r ally la rge it is well to keep the
han d s well plumped by good ci r culation and much feeding
o f the tissues with oils and creams
This same p recaution wi ll prevent the h an d s becomi n g
unshapely But i f they were u n shapely fro mbirth they
can be improved by p inching the tips o f the fi ngers f r o m
the sides o r by wea r ing clamps o r if these be not available
by weari n g thimbles on all the fin gers a hal f hour or more
each day
They can be made longer and slimmer by massaging the
hands with long sl o w strokes fro m the w r ists to the tips
o f the fingers always with the hands well oiled or covered
with p ure cold cream
Massage o f the finge r s can be profitably combined with
massage o f the face by usi n g a rotary motion o f the fi nger
tips This stimulates bo th face and finger muscles
Han ds o f a n y age shoul d be kept white Reddene d
hands are always unsightly whatever the cause There
are four causes for reddened hands One is washing in
An o ther is exposure t o cold air A thi r d
hot or cold water
is extremely ha r d manual labor A fourth i s the habit o f
holding the ha n ds dow n ward
There are a good many bleach es for the hands O ne
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TH E
CA RE O F
N A I LS
A ND
F I N GER S
137
the best is washing t he han d s in a bowl o f warm milk
every night Another i s that o ld frie n d o f the dainty
which should be within reach o f every toilet table — a
lemon The r e is no bleac h better than hal f a lemon rubbe d
o n the back o f palms o f the hands be fore retiring
This too is an excellent bleach which als o softens the
hands The addition o f perfume makes it a pleasa n t p rep
aration
L emon j uice 1 ounce ; honey 1 ounce ; eau de cologn e
1 ounce
When m y hands are soiled I was h them in warm
never hot — water w ith a pu r e soap L ifting my ha n ds
from the b ow l o f warm water I pour upon t hem a table
spoonful from a bottle o f
Rosewater 3 ounces ; gl y cerine 1 ounce ; carbolic acid 1 0
drops
I was h my h an d s thoroughly again i n this and d ry them
upon a so ft towel a piece o f cheesecl o th or an O ld silk hand
kerchie f and am careful to wipe them tho r oughly dry
Chapped hands are t he penalty o f careless drying T o
further whiten the hands carbolic acid may be adde d to
this mixt u re
1 0 d rop s t o 4 ounces o f th e rosewater an d
glycerine
The woman w h o d oes her own ho u sework o ften fi n d s the
skin abo ut the j oints o f her fi ngers getting loose and flabb y
and the skin at the sides o f the nails becoming calloused
For these troubles I a d vise wearing large loos e gloves
while sweepi n g an d d usting Don t put your hands in hot
water mo r e than is necessary Massage the hands as I
have directe d an d soak them every day in a bowl o f milk o r
olive oil Use o n e o f t he bleaches I have recommended
and wear big l o ose rubbe r gloves t h ree o r four sizes larger
than your kid gloves at night
At luncheon o ne day i n London I s aw a girl trying t o
h ide her hands S om e o ne h ad remarke d that h ands may
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MY
1 38
S ECRET S
O F B EAUTY
look ol d when their owner is not T he disc u ssion o f the
s ubj ect threw the girl into acute embarrassment
and her
hands sought t o screen themselves be n eath the damask o f
her dinner napkin Interested I studied those hands when
I could do so without embarrassme n t to the girl They
were large and r ed b u t what made the unhappy guest try
to hide them w a s that they were what every beauty sp e
”
c i ali s t knows as
o ld hands
Had I j udge d the age o f their possessor by th ose hands
I Should have sai d She was fifty They were deeply
wrinkle d The skin ha d formed in de ep creases about the
knuckles The texture was coarse There was the r e
sig n ed look o f accepte d age in their contou r Yet when
my eyes t r aveled up from t hose hands to the figure o f the
girl I s aw tha f it was Slender and u n developed and as my
scrutiny ex tended to the face I s aw that it was fresh and
sweet as an E nglish p r imrose that grows in o n e o f the de
li c i ou s ly romantic E n glish lanes
S he w as young as the
unblown rosebud as the fledgling j ust peeping over the
nest as the silver crescent moon is yo ung B ut she had
Why "
o ld ha n ds
I was traveling
A kee n ly obse r vant man sai d t o me
to Cherbourg I was in the same compa r tment as two
wome n My eyes tired o f the landscape a n d came back to
my fellow t r avelers One o f the women had drawn o ff her
glov es Her hands lay in he r lap I dly I speculated about
their owne r I guessed by those hands that s he was forty
Her face showed she was not more than eighteen N ext I
glanced at her compa n ion s ha n ds They too were u n
gloved and lyi n g r elaxed in her lap were aged hands
S he must be e ighty I thought and a glimpse o f her face
It was that o f a woma n in middle life
c onf o u n ded me
S he w as o f that opulent beauty whose midsummer is pro
longed indefinitely S he was probably forty fi v e And the
girl beside her was her da ughter S he was an exact replica
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S ECRET S
MY
14 0
OF
BEAUTY
a fter the water and soap bath It neutralizes the d ry ing
e ff ect o f the soap
Glycerine agrees with some han d s If it d oe s not
redden and make them se n sitive as you can learn by two
o r three applications it will be a good article o f hand foo d
Equal parts o f glycerine a n d rosewater will make a milder
application for glycerine alo n e is often an irritant I f
lemon j uice is u sed instead o f the rosewater it whitens the
hands
Well fed han d s I hav e seen h av e their d aily meal o f
cocoanut o i l S everal col d creams are good hand foods
S o is buttermilk
Many of my frien d s complain that winter always leaves
”
them with disgrace ful looki n g ha n ds
I do not suppose
that this statement is really true Americans and espe
c i ally Ame r ican girls are p r one to extravagance in conver
sation
What they mean by this bill o f complaint is that
the cold weather makes their hands l ook rough and red
Do n t mourn those reddened c o arse looking hands
You will o n ly etch lines in your face an d cause the muscle s
to s ag as muscles do early in life i f they have not been
uphel d by a cheerful disposition and the facial exercise that
laughter bri n gs B esi d e s all fo r c e is wa s ted that i s n ot
used in upbuildi n g new conditio n s o r in remedying o ld o n es
"
What i s to be done with those red hands
First do not
exp ose them to sudden change s o f temperatur e Don t
plunge them into hot water a n d draw them Out o f the hot
water a n d dry them in a cold ro om S leep in a cold room
by all means but don t dress in o n e I f there a r e no m eans
to make your bedroom warm for the morning toilet dress
i n some part o f the house that is warmed if necessary by
the kitche n stove Cold followed by heat o r the O pposite
extreme is su r e to redden the hands an d t o coarsen the
textu r e o f their ski n
S econd do not wear tight gloves I dislike a tightly
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C AR E O F
THE
NAIL S
F I N GER S
A ND
14 1
gloved han d It has always seemed to m e vulgar I am
glad to s ee that Fashion is recognizing this and giving her
endorsement to the practice o f wearing gl o ves a hal f o r
whole size too large So that the glov e will wrinkle a trifle
over the hand and look as though the wearer were com
Wea r gloves that are otherwise com fortable that
fo r tab le
is that do not irritate the skin F o r summer cotton o r ve ry
thin suede silk or chamois are best S uede are best in win
ter because they are so fter than most othe r materials use d
by the glover in p r oviding his stock Woolen gloves may
be worn over the gloves but I do not advise wearing them
next to the skin fo r they chafe the skin making it rough
Thir d do not wash the m in water too o ften while t hey
are in the coarse re d dened state Remove the dust o r
grime when possible by rubbing o i l or cold cream over the
hands and afterwards carefully wiping them When you
wash them in water let it be in merely war m wate r Into
this you may drop a teaspoonful o f powdered borax to a
q u art o f water o r in the same amount o f water a dessert
spoonful o f li q uid ammonia o r a hal f d ozen d rops o f ti n c
ture o f be n z oin All thes e will whiten t he skin I f you
drop in the water a handful o f bran o r oatmeal it will
soften and whiten the han d s D ry the hands gently
Don t treat them as though yo u were putting them through
a clothes wringer with the Monday was h
Fourth until the hands reach t he re fi ne d condition you
desire never retire without dressing them for the night
Rub over them thickly lanolin o r n a falan o r a mixture o f
equal p arts o f vaseli n e and lanolin I f you have made the
hands to o greasy by this ap p lication wipe o ff the supe r fluous
c r eam with a so ft handkerchief o r piece o f cheesecloth
Or i f you p refer yo u can use the Englis h p aste o r the
French formulas fo r which follow
P ure soap shaved M quart ; olive o il 1 2 quart ; mutton
suet M qua r t ; brandy M quart Warm the soap suet a n d
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S ECRET S
MY
142
BEAUT Y
OF
until they blend While they are still tepi d po u r in the
bran d y A d d a few d rops o f any favorit e per f ume if d e
s ire d
Ea u d e co l ogne 100 gram s ; o il o f almon d s 100 grams ;
pow d ere d soap 3 0 grams Warm to blending point ; then
shake well an d pou r into a j ar and keep in a cool place
S prea d o n e o f these pastes over the hands and draw over
the hands large loose rubber o r la rge o ld kid gloves before
retiring
I f the hands have reached such stage o f roughness that
there are small cracks o r fissures in the skin cover these
cracks o r fissu r es with zinc oxide plasters I f the fissures
are ve ry d eep apply a salicylic soap plaster
”
I f your hands take a notion t o be red s ay at an even
ing party or at a tea for instance when you are expected
”
to pour shake the m violently so that if the fi ngers were
less lo o sely attached they woul d fly o ff
Also work the hands back and forth f r om th e wrists for
a few minutes This is better than the old French custom
for the
o f holding the hands up to let the blood run o ut
blood will run back into them again as soon as the hands
are held as usual On the other hand the shaking of the
hands and limbering o f the wrists will restore the circula
tion the interruption o f which has caused the hands t o
r edden B e sure that your rings are not too tight for i f
they are they will impede the ci r culatio n and ca u se the red
ness s o many o f y ou are try ing to a v oid
oil
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C HA P T ER
BE
A U TY
XI
B AT H S
ET me d irect the baths o f the body an d th e complexion
will take care o f itsel f
How shall I impress upon y o u my bea u tiful rea d er w ho
would remain beautiful my plain reader
if ever a woman
was plain —who wants to be beautiful how necessary is
the frequent bath " B y this I mean the daily bath L et
me tell you that which you may have fo rgotten that when
”
the third lung we minimize its
w e speak o f the skin as
importance The skin discharges twice as much waste
matter from the body as do the lungs Keep that ever in
mind and help the skin in its task
Again t here is the story which you als o may have heard
and forgotten that the man whose skin has been gilded in
died in a few
a n e ffort to make o f him a man o f go ld
hours because his pores hav ing bee n fi lled coul d not dis
charge their function
The daily bath i n some instances the bath twice a day
is not as persons advanced in s ome di r ections and pitiably
behi n d in others tell us a luxury It is a necessity It
does not as some ignorantly assume destroy the oils o f the
skin It causes them to circulate mor e f reely through the
medi u m o f the skin
P ermit me to picture to you the con d ition which a bath
"
H ow
changes Have you ever seen a shower o f ashes
from a d isturbed furnace a g r ay flur ry rises then falls
thickly as snow upon the n earest smooth surface " That is
what h appens to the skin The sho wer o f white ashes
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43
S ECRET S
MY
14 4
B EAUT Y
OF
refuse from the fires in t he human body pushes its wa y
through the pores to the surface o f the body o r the skin
There in the m o uths o f the po r es they remain obst r ucti n g
them as a wagonload o f soil would obstruct the mouth o f a
sewer if poured into it and allowed to remain
The shower o f human ashes must be removed j ust as the
t r aces of a s n ow fall are remove d fr om city streets quickly
a n d thoroughly else tra ffic is impeded The sca r f skin
must go and the best and most direct way to send it is by
the route o f the bath
I have desc r ibed in a previous chapter my o w n method
o f bathi n g
I fi n d the tepid bath i n the mo rn i n g followed
by a Slightly cooler shower or splash with spo n ge o r ha n ds
the best for my needs Also for dryi n g the Ski n I pre fe r
a soft towel for it is best fo r my skin But I d o not
recommend this as a unive r sal method
My skin happe n s to be exceedi ngly thin and sensitive
annoyi n gly s o I f it were o n e of the ha r dier more dur
able s o r t with a te n de n cy to a coarse n i n g a n d roughe n i n g
I should t r y this much m or e drastic method o f removi n g
scarf S ki n I f I we r e st r o n g e nough a n d my physicia n s
vouche d fo r the fact that I we r e I would try the daily cold
plu n ge or shower This I would take in the mor n i n g r e
maini n g in the icy tub o r u n der the chilli n g shower n ot more
than o n e mi n ute The n I should have a brisk r ubdown n ot
with the so ft line n towel o r cheesecloth but with a big
coarse Turkish towel F o r this pu r pose I like best the big
towels that swathe the body completely which one may
wrap rou n d hersel f a n d w r apped i n them s i t upo n a bath
i n g stool a n d dry herself with immu n ity from chill U n
less I we r e to dress at o n ce I should b r iskly rub the body
with alcohol to r ende r less the possibility o f t aki n g cold
But i f my roo m were su n ny I would p r efer to r u n about the
room half a dozen times o r a rehea r sal o f da n ci n g steps
fo r five mi n utes o r j umping the rope O n e o f the greates t
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S ECRET S
MY
14 6
OF
B EAUTY
To an or d inary bathtub hal f fille d with water a dd one
po u nd o f pure starch Let it d issolve in water at 90 to 9 5
deg r ees Fahrenheit T o this many French women ch oose
to add o n e wineglass of t o ilet amm o nia for its whiteni n g
e ffect
The oatmeal bag is an o ld and admirable remedy for
rough o r stained ski n The best is made in this way "
Oatmeal 1 pound ; pulverized o r ris root M pound S tir
well together a n d s ew into a large square bag Toss the
bag into the tub a n d let it remai n in the warm water fo r
fi fteen minutes It will give the water that delightful
milky aspect s o pleasant to the luxurious bather Bran
may be ma n ipulated in the same w ay with equally good
results
For whitening a n d soft ening the skin a bath powder may
be made at home f r om these i ngredients
B icarbonate o f soda 6 ounces ; cream o f tartar 5 ounces ;
starch 8 ounces ; o i l o f lemon 1 dram ; o i l o f bergamot 10
drops If another sce n t is preferred to bergamot it ca n
be substituted ; for instance 5 drops o f o i l o f rose gera
nium
F o r a person not strong enough to endure t h e col d bath
this tonic in tepid water is recomme n ded by many Eu r opea n
physicians
A romatic vi n egar 1 pint ; tincture o f benzoin 1 wine
glass
A delicious bath us e d by our grandmoth ers and that is
is ma d e by boiling
a s e fficacious for their granddaughters
fo r th r ee hours two pounds of bran S train the b r an
through a sieve To the remai n ing liquo r add some scent
o f your choice let us say 1 0 drops o f bergamot 5 o f ros e
o f geranium o r 5 o f oil of lavender
A belle o f limited mea n s utilizes all the left over bits o f
her toilet soap These s he g r inds or chops with a knife
into a fine powder To two ounces o f this p o w d er she ad d s
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B E AUTY B AT HS
14 7
f our tablespoon fuls o f borax S he Sifts these into two
quarts o f bran A pint o f this mixture p oured into an old
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linen or cheesecloth bag and th e bag used as a washcloth
gives a pleasant touch o f l u xury to a bath besides greatl y
so fte n ing and whitening the skin
Many women prefer to make their ow n t oilet o r aromatic
F o r the m I reco mmend
V inega r s to be use d in the bath
this formula "
Camphor M o unce ; o i l o f rosemary M d ram ; o il o f
cloves M d r am ; o i l o f bergamot 1 dram ; acetic acid 4
ounces ; alcohol 8 ounces
When for any reason the perspiration is odorous in spite
o f the bath this sprinkled upon the o ff ending portions o f
the body destroys the unpleasant condition
S ubnitrate o f bismuth 1 ounce ; pulve r ize d boric aci d M
ounce ; p ulverize d alum M ounce ; o i l of eucalyptus 1 0
drops ; o i l o f rose geranium 5 d r ops ; o i l o f lemon 5 d r ops
For those o f full habit I recommend a Russian bath once
a week as beneficial to the complexion I prefer those
give n in the cabi n ets For mysel f being meager there
would be after six o f the m nothi n g le ft
L et me suggest this means fo r the invalid or the perso n
There
o f lean purse o f taki n g the Russian bath at home
a re inexpensive cabinets folding o r statio n ary made fo r
this purpose o f wood o r tin Even a packing box would
su ffi ce But a good Russian which means vapor as dis
t i ngu i s he d fro m the Turkish o r ho t air bath — and the
Russian I think much to b e p re ferred because it does not
—
involve breathing hot ai r
may be taken at home
—
The home made Russia n bath requires " Three o r more
blankets ; a cane seated chair ; a spirit lamp ; a c an contai n
ing on e qua rt o f water Place the can upon the lighted
spirit lamp the spirit lamp be n eath the chair and yoursel f
env eloped in blankets upon the chair The water in the
can can be replenishe d f r om tim e to time
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MY
14 8
S ECRET S O F B EAUT Y
Drinking three or more glasses o f hot water d uring the
b ath aids in perspiratio n
I f there are more blankets avail
able lie dow n swathed in from four to s i x
d r y o n es a n d
the process o f perspi r ation will co n tinue for twenty mi n utes
longer
In Tu r key baths are regarded not only as means o f clean
li n e s s but as age n ts o f beauty
He r e is a to n ic Tu r kish
women pour i n to the t u b t o tone the Skin a n d th r ough that
the whole body "
Ammonia ( pure ) 1 00 grams ; cooking salt 5 00 g r ams
This i s o f special value when o n e is tire d a n d listless
It is called the S timulant Bath
Oil o f tu r pentine 1 0 0 g r ams ; carbonate o f soda 5 0
grams ; o i l o f rosemary 1 0 grams ; o i l of eucalyptus 5
g rams
This o i l bath is rubbed i n t o the ski n to r ender it soft a n d
smooth It is an admi r able remedy fo r a d ry ski n The
harem women style it The B eauty Bath
Rosewater 1 00 g r ams ; glyce r i n e 6 0 g r ams ; starch 5 0
grams ; oil o f lavender 1 5 grams
Famous beauties were always ca r eful about their baths
even in a pe r iod when baths we r e dis r egarded o r were de
Marie A n
sp i se d as the habits of the u n duly e ffemi n ate
toi n ette for he r full bath used a mixtu r e o f wild thyme
a n d marj ory with s e a salt In the wi n ter the baths we r e
taken cold i n the summer wa r m it bei n g the fancy o f the
court physic i a n D r F ag o n i that the temperature o f the
b ath should co rr espo nd to the temperatu r e o f the outer air
The wi n e bath is not a fiction o f the imagi n ati o n but
r ather a fact o f histo ry The beautiful Russia n Marie
Cz et w e r tyn o sk a favo r ite beauty o f the Court of Alexa n der
the Great insiste d upon the tonic o f a weekly bath in
S panish wi n e Poppaea bathed in asses milk a n d was r e
no w n e d for her complexion
N ovel was the method o f Isabeau Q ueen o f Bavaria
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MY
150
S ECRET S
OF
BEAUTY
being u nmixe d with the minerals which well water collects
o n its tour through the various strata o f earth and which
hardens it
The starch bath is one o f the best to allay itching or cure
annoying skin e r uptions It is made like this "
Into a tub o f s ay ten gallons o f water drop one half
pound o f starch
The gelati n e bat h serves a similar pu r pose It is sooth
ing to an irritated skin The proportions are two hu n dred
a n d fi fty grams o f white Fre n ch gelatine to ten gallons o f
tepid water
The col d bath is a stimulant for those w ho are st r ong
enough to react from it The test is whether after the cold
plunge the skin tur n s red If it turns blue the vitality is
not su fficie n t to bear such heroic treatment Cold baths
Should n ot be take n without the advice o f a competent
physician
The hot bath is soothing but i f taken too o ften is ener
v at i n g
O n ce a
eek under ordinary circumstances is
o ften enough fo r a hot bath
The tepid bath graduated to a cool bath by letting the
cold water run in as the warm water runs o ff is the best
daily bath
For the person who perspires excessively a wineglass o f
ammonia to ten gallo n s o f water is a good corrective
Fo r the seaside bath five pou n ds o f table salt dissolved
in a tub ful o f water at home is a ve r y good substitute
This followed by a shower o r spray will lend the illusion
o f Ostend o r Atlantic City
But besides these simple baths tha t any o n e may take
there are some that ar e complex a n d that only those who
have for a time at least s ome spare hours to spend at their
toilets may trouble to take This is what my p hysician
ordered whe n I had come from a Russian tour wea r y fro m
travel and i n that state o f depression that follows extreme
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B EAUT Y B ATH S
weari ness
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15 I
Used in tepid water every morning I foun d it
i nv i go i at i ng
‘
Bromide o f potassium 1 gram ; carbonate o f calcium 1
gram ; carbonat e o f Soda 3 00 g r ams ; sulphate o f soda 3 00
grams ; sulphate o f iro n 3 grams ; o i l o f lavender 1 gram ;
1 gram ; o i l o f rosemary 1 gram
o i l o f thyme
The same physician recommen d ed for the skin that was
t o o sensitive to endure soa p "
Tincture o f q u illagac 1 0 grams ; glyc e r1n e 2 0 grams ; o il
o f bergamot 3 drops
The ext remely nervous person whose skin is much irri
t ate d may take the starch bath I have d escribe d and add
to it a pint o f vinegar
Disc r eet bathing besides its first o ffice o f cleanli n ess ai d s
and even cures an aemia biliousness obesity rheumatism
neuralgia and even S t Vitus s dance
The hot water treatment fo r pimples is more e fficacious
than most medicines given fo r that purpose The applica
tion o f so ft cloths dippe d in hot water has e ff ecte d a c u re
in a few days
A class o f skin diseases that produce postules o n the
ski n these postules eve n tually bursting and forming crusts
are alleviated and sometimes cured by a systematic cou r se
The falli n g o f the crusts like dandru ff
o f warm baths
and the gradual heali n g ; may b e b rought about by two
warm baths daily Tetter is o ne o f these forms that has
been cured by warm water baths and care ful ten d er d rying
with soft towels
An obj ect lesson in the v alue o f the war m bath in sooth
ing the nervous syste m is seen in the cas e o f children
screaming with the colic who cease their cries and grow
sleepy as soon as they are placed in a t u b o f warm water
I f p ossible bathe not less than two hours be fore eating
nor less than three hou rs after eating
N ever take a bath w hile ver y tire d There will b e no
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S ECRET S
MY
152
OF
B EAUTY
r eaction — that is the blood will not leap to the sur face
as under favorable circumstan ces it makes its response to
,
the bath and the bath will merely reduce further the low
ered vitality
A little exercise j ust before bathing an d a litt le exercise
after aids the go o d e ffects o f the bath The exercise b e
fore opens the pores for the reception o f the water The
exe r cise afterward permits the entra n ce o f s u n an d air into
the pores too little accustome d to either
Light exercise a fter the drying o f the skin with a so ft
towel and b efore e n vel o pi n g it with clothes is a sple n did
to n ic and a wonderful b e au ti fi e r I k n ow a half dozen
beautiful P arisiennes who have had their bathrooms built
in that part o f the house most exposed to the sunshine and
at the top o f the house a n d ope n i n g from these have built
small su n parlors square rooms with roo fs and sides e n
t i r ely o f glass
Here they exercise for from five to ten
mi n utes j umpi n g the rope or flexi n g the arms a n d legs a n d
h ead
One vigo r ous beauty has a bla n ket spread upon the
fl o o r o f her s u n pa r lor a n d upon this turns somersaults to
make her body pliant and to assure hersel f that her c i r cu
lation is free S ome o f these exercises are illustrated by
the Silhouettes on this page
Duri n g the su nbaths they are u n clad o r i f clothed are
merely wrapped in a light loose dressing gown After the
bath and the exe r cise some Pa r isiennes repose for an hour
u p on a couch in the s u n pa r lo r their hair ha n gi n g loose
and their faces protected only by a delicate shade like a fire
screen from the t oo strong rays o f the s u n
Bathe briskly in the water Never stay in it more than
twe n ty mi n utes Indeed a good scrub can b e taken i n
three minutes A b r ush is better than a sponge It pries
open the pores D o not u s e coars e towels They abrade
the skin U s e soft towels o r bath gloves D ry thoroughly
uickl
Man
bathe
t he fac e an d ne ck fi rst to pr e
an d
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C H A P TER XII
G O OD H EA LT H A S A F O U N DA T I O N FO R
BE
AU TY
H OW me a woman who has indigestion an d I will Sho w
you a pe r son with muddy complexio n dull o r fever
ishly bright eyes a coated tongue and a la n guid man n er
None o f these makes for beauty All are signs o f ill
health B esides t hese outward an d visible signs o f ill
health it is a heav y weight u pon the spirits The girl
thinks she is unhappy and manufactures causes for misery
an d
o r exaggerates the t r i fl es that are n o t t o her liking
makes them causes for u n happiness
Besides thes e i n digestio n causes yet graver troubles I
recall several persons I k n ew who have since passed from
the earthly plane whose decline in health bega n with vari
It was never clear to me
o u s symptoms o f i n digestio n
whether the i n digestion w as the cause or the e ffect o f thes e
maladies But I t rust I have said enough to p rove that
indigestion is a most undesirable state Vanity alone should
forbid it
"
How to p revent in d igestion
I shall have a great deal
to say farther o n about food wrong in kind or quality as
a cause o f indigestio n But first let me tell you o f an ex
c ellen t exercise t o discou r age indigestion
Knead the abdome n o n retiri n g and several times a day
when there is opportunity Double you r hands as though
Place the cle n ched ha n ds beneath the
fo r kneading bread
ribs Pres s firmly and r egularly upon the i n testines mov
i n g t he fists forwa r d until they meet H aving done this
five to ten times allow the left han d to rest at y our si d e
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15 4
TH E
FO U N DATIO N F O R
B EAUTY
155
and with the right han d press gently b u t s teadily d ownwar d
at the left o f the ab dom e n until your h an d is opposite the
thigh Repeat this operation sev e ral time s each time you
tak e the exercise This is still more e ffective if taken while
f
o
u
are
lying
in
your
bathtub
The
relaxatio
n
the
o
y
muscles is aided by the fact that they are under water
The hyd r opath i c school believes this one o f the greatest ai d s
t o restoring proper digestion
Much walki n g is an ai d t o digestion S o is this exercise
which can be taken in bed
Lying upon your back draw the knees slowly u p b e
neath the chin then let the legs fall to their forme r positio n
This is the most valuable o f early morning exercises for
those who have a torpi d liver o r some other form o f indi
gestion
Coars e cereals are an enemy to in d igestion S eldom
does o n e see a case o f indigestion in S cotla n d and i f we
d o it is when w e meet a queer S cot w ho dislikes his na
t i o n al dish oatmeal
Oatmeal whole wheat rice all being
large fib e r e d foods stir the stomach an d intestines to a c
t i v it y which is good fo r d igestion
Again every girl shoul d know some o f the principles o f
t h e values o f foods Apply to your daily food these facts
You r food shoul d consist o f thes e p r o portions
M ixture o f starches an d sugars about 1 6 parts Pro
t e i d s 4 parts
Fats 2 parts
In other words on e—
half o f our daily amount o f foo d
may be made up o f potatoes rice bread e tc One eighth
should consist of the proteids as milk o r eggs o r cheese
One sixteenth should be fat as butte r o r the fat to be
f o un d in meat o r o i l in dressing of salads Keep this table
in mind and you will fi n d a new interest in choosi n g your
food and in a short t i me y ou will welcome a ma r ked i m
p rovement in your health
Do not decline s weets unless yo u are overw eight but eat
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1 56
S ECRET S
MY
OF
B EAUTY
them at the right time which is as desser t for luncheon o r
dinner Never eat cake o r ca n dy between meals
Turn resolutely away from all fried foods Y o u have
heard that fried foods are i n j urious but you do not know
wh y It is my pleasure to tell you They are indigestible
because they form in the stomach a substance as thick a n d
u n wieldy as leather and as di fficult o f digestion
Neither
meats n o r eggs no r milk should eve r reach the boiling point
For this reaso n never eat boiled bee f no r a boiled egg nor
milk that has bee n boiled The beef cut up in a stew that
has simme r ed belo w the boiling p o int an egg that has been
dropped into water j ust below the b o ili n g point and allowed
to heat there for eight minutes i n stead o f boili n g four and
milk that ha s been heated but never pe rmitted to Show o n e
o f the bubbles that attend the boiling state are substitutes
for the old fo r ms and admirable ones
Keep this also i n mind i n selecting your food " For the
bones formation w e need lime and the cer eals as oats and
wheat and rice co n tain eleme n ts that make it S ugar is
c o nverted i n to e n ergy as the Russia n da n cers well k n ow
for they eat ino r di n ate qua n tities o f ca n dy a n d sweet paste
yet because they exercise it O ff remain thin The fats a s
butter and meat fat cause warmth i n the body s o shoul d
be used more f r eely in wi n ter than in summer B read is
a good food i f made o f coarse grain Co n t r a ry to the gen
eral opi n ion macaro n i and spaghetti are good foods Ex
amine them i n their raw state a n d you will see that they are
yell o wish That shows the prese n ce o f glute n which is
valuable as an aid to digestion in bread fo rm
Are yo u anaemic " Then besides mil d exercise i n the
always stoppi n g before you are tired a n d mas
o pen air
sagi n g the body and face with feedi n g oils as la n olin a n d
olive o il f eed yoursel f gene r ously with thicke n ed broths
and thick soups Ham and bacon and mutto n chicken and
game are reb u ild e r s o f the weakened system an d b u t
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MY
15 2
3
S ECRE T S
OF
B EAUTY
f r om the b ody A lcohol sweets and strawberries a d d to
them
Eat v ery slowly o f the following " Thin vegetable so u p s
fresh fi s h and raw oysters whi t emeats as the breast o f
chicken sweetbreads and p igs feet Take the white s o f
eggs pre ferably raw
Toasted graha m or w hole wh eat bread is the best for
your condition Zw ei b ac k and graham gems are also help
ful F o r yo u celery lettuce cucumber Cabbages y o ung
peas a n d stri n g bea ns spinach those vegetables c o ntaining
much water are excellent Juicy fruits as oranges lemons
apricots cranberries pears peaches better stewe d o r baked
than r aw are medicinal for yo u
But eat no bee f no fried dishes no ragouts no r hashes
n either turkey nor duck nor goose no omelettes a n d no salt
fish and no dessert s except fruits I f you drink tea o r
co ff ee let it b e weak Buttermilk is better for yo u and
you more than any other class o f person should drink wate r
in large q ua n tities
I f you are li v er l sh or are troubled by bilious attacks eat
less heavily than you have bee n doin g Choose white meats
a n d fish a n d eat n o fat part o f the meat O f v egetables
eat much watercress and lettuce an d Spinach D r ink
skimme d milk a n d that very sl o wly and eat o n ly raw o r
poached eggs Co r nbrea d o r bread made from whole wheat
flour and hot water in which you have s queezed the j uice
o f a lemon or o r ange w ill help you back to a state of health
Eat n either cheese nor potatoes oatmeal n o r dried v ege
tables
—
I f you are neurasthenic never attempt the no breakfast
plan It is better for you i f yo u can have your b reakfast
in bed The diet should be light Meats fi sh eggs gree n
vegetables a nd fruits are a help ful diet Milk ca n be tak en
if the stomach does not rej ect it Tea co ffee tobacco and
alcoholic drinks are f orbidden to you
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T HE
FOUND ATIO N
F O R BE AUTY
159
T rain
yourself to note your symptoms and treat them by
diet When your face has a mottled appearance you may
be sure that you are eating too much food of all sorts o r
th at yo u are eating to o much that is greas y o r rich or sweet
A chic P arisian frien d o f mine when she notices such
—
symptoms limits hersel f to o ne moderate meal a day
her
—
dinner
an d the earlier part o f the day contents herself
with fruits and salads d r i n ki n g water moderately at these
meals and copi o usly between them
The r e are many times when w e feel o u r bodies and
are growing to o heavy o r t oo lazy that it is well to subsist
for a few days o n a liquid diet This nourishing dri n k
stre ngthens the body eve n while the work o f removing the
remaining ashes from the bo d y goes o n "
Whole barley I tablespoonful ; a slice o f lemon ; boiling
water 2 cup fuls P lace the barley an d slice of lemon i n an
earthen dish O v er them p our the boiling wate r Cover
the dish and let the mixture stand for ten mi n utes Then
strain into another earthen dish The d r ink may b e fl a
The
v o re d with a small q uantity o f sugar i f pre ferred
qua n tity given is ampl e for on e nourishing meal fo r one
person
This is a dr ink o ften taken by athletes to refresh them
during their trai n i n g period in England but is useful to
wome n taking a semi fast for beauty s sake
B ran 2 tablespoonfuls ; seeded raisins I tablespoon ful ;
l emon 1 thick Slice Chop the raisi n s fine and place them
with the b r a n and lemo n i n an ea r then bowl Over these
pour a hal f pi n t o f boili n g water L et stan d t o cool a n d
blend for ten minutes S trai n a nd dri n k while wa r m
Raisins are o f special value in cleansing an d to n ing the
kidneys
The water in which peeled apples hav e been stewed and
to which a few curra n ts have been added is a strengthe n ing
cooli n g and cleansing drink It is made more appetizing
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
1 60
by the additio n o f a few cloves o r a broken stick of ci n n a
mon
This is a n o ther tonic a n d re f r eshi n g dri nk during the
tim e w he n you a r e eati n g little o r nothing
S queeze i n to a la r ge co ff ee cup the j uice o f o n e o range
Fill the Space re mai n i n g in th e cup w ith boili ng water
Add a teasp oo nful o f liquid ho n ey a n d the sa me amount o f
lemon j uice
This t oo app eases hun ger
Milk 1 pi n t ; hot water 1 pint S lowly s i p in lieu of a
meal The use o f w ate r in a w ay p r events the cloggi n g
o f th e syste m that sometimes follows an exclusively milk
diet
A d ri nk much in use i n Engla n d that is hal f food hal f
medicin al is this
T w o tablespo o n fuls o f whol e wheat ; a little ca raway or
cele r y seed to flavor I n to a pi n t bo wl of b oili n g water stir
the whole w heat a fter it has been gr ound Add the ca ra
S weete n if you wish with a hal f
w ay o r cele r y seed
teaspoo n ful o f powdered licorice
Nut dri n ks a r e am o n g the s tren gt he n in g beverages sub
stitute d for food du r i n g a beauty fast F o r example this "
G r ou n d p ea n uts 1 tablespoonful ; boiling wate r 1 cup
ful Flavor with equal quantiti es o f ho n ey o r lemon j uice
as desi r ed
Pe r haps you prefer m ea t j uices in th e thi nning o r r e
buildi n g time In that case
Pour over fi n ely chopped bee f o r chicken tw ice its
bu lk i n bo ili n g w ater i f you wish th e tea to b e strong three
times if w eak
S ome thi ngs the r e are that no one who wishes to be b ea u
tiful should eve r take i n to the stomach Those thi ngs
should be co n traba n d as po iso n s a n d leads They a r e
S weets past ri es a n yt hi n g very sweet o r very s our any
thi ng ve ry cold o r very hot pork puddings o ther than tho s e
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
1 62
less work to do For that reason I should advise t he beauty
with spots upon her countenance to try for a few hours o r
if possible a few days the water cure Let her so far as
food is concerned fast if her physician permit and live
as long a s seems j udicious on air an d wate r The fu r nace
o f an engi n e m u st be cleansed occasionally o f its clinkers
S o the intestinal tract must be cleansed o f its obstructions
I have said before in these pages that everyone should
drink three q uarts o f water a day I repeat it I f the
sto mach be very delicate the water may be taken hot but
a s I have also said be fore
I have found that while hot
water taken copiously into the stomach r elieves a condition
t emporarily i f the stom ac h; continues habitually to be
flooded with it it checks the flow o f the gastric j uices The
gastric j uices refuse to work pettishly leaving their func
—
r
tions to the intruder Cold o cool water
never let me
repeat i ce water
should be taken s o that when it reaches
the stomach it is of nearly the same tempe r ature It shoul d
be sipped and slowly swallowe d ; nev er no matter how
thirsty o n e may be gulped
A s well int r o duce a lump o f ice suddenly into the
stomach as a tumblerful o f cold wate r I f you have ever
by accident swallowed a lump o f i c e you know how painful
and violent is the stomach s protest Never drink more
than two glasses o f water at a time A pint as I have
e
r
ointed
is
all
that
the
stomach
shoul
d
asked
to
u
t
b
e
o
p
tain at o n e time I f the beauty the charm o f whose face
has been ecli p sed by blotches desires she can increase the
amount o f wate r by a quart or mo re but this only when
she is taki n g no food I f she finds it more palatable th r ee
o r four drops o f lemon j uice squeezed int o a glas s will help
the cleansing process While she is taki n g the wate r cure
sh e should take as much exercise out o f d oors as her strength
will p ermit S he must not continue the exercise a fter she
becomes tired
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163
THE FOUNDATIO N FOR BEAUTY
This water cu r e can be assisted b y flushing the colon with
warm water a subj ect with which I ma y deal more fully
later S u fficie n t a t this time that the internal bath given
as o fte n as her physician directs is o f great a i d to her who
would have a clear complexion
The water and air cu re has been contin u e d un d er medical
direction for o n e day th r ee even fi ve o r s i x d ays with
beneficial results The lengt h will depend upon the strength
When s he resumes food
o f the person taki n g the cure
s he would do well to begin with warm milk
B eginning with one quart o f milk a d ay the quantity can
be increased to t w o a n d even three It should be remem
bered that milk is food rather than a beve r age and should
be consumed as such Not less than five minutes shoul d be
given to drinking a glass o f milk
When foo d has been r esumed bear in mind that i f the
spots upon your face are caused by ac n e ( blackheads ) tea
and co ff ee should be avoided S 0 should pastry C heese
sauces and highly seasoned foods On the other hand the
beauty w ho would remove the small black blemishes may
eat freely o f w ell cooked gree n vegetables a n d stewed fruits
While followi n g this cooli n g cleansi n g r égime I would
suggest that pimples roughnesses and spots will the mo r e
quickly disappear if fo r three o r more mor n i n gs the blood
be cooled by a dose o f o n e teaspoonful o f Epsom salts i n
a glass o f warm water
For the be auties w ho are t o o thin a diet that will em
rich the blood is recommended For this condition fat
meats gravies lima beans potatoes rice sweets
all those
things above which I have writt e n the flami n g sign Don t
for stout beauties
should be eaten
When the cheeks a n d lips are pale the eyes dim the
gait laggi n g and the body abnormally thin these conditions
all indicate that there is a lack of i r on in the system I use
iron hypo dermic inj ections myself pre ferring them because
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M Y S E C RET S
1 64
OF
B EAUT Y
they save the stomach the disturbance that follows i nt ro du c
i n g medicines But if there i s an obj ection to this iron
may be taken in food fo r m by eati ng the yolks o f eggs
sp inach beets and string bea n s
The same dietary will help the woman whose hair is
falli n g o r is prematu r ely gray The results though Slow
are b e n efi c en t
I believe i n fasting in moderation as an aid to the good
health upon which beauty depends AS fully as I indorse
the beauty device o f stayi n g in bed now a n d then for a day
o r longer
i f circumsta n c es permit o n e day of every te n
I am c o nvinced that an occasio n al fast is conducive to well
being
Fasti n g confers benefits in general and i n specific cases
When persons are in that co n dition for which you have a
”
nai ve word o f description logy which mean s heav y a n d
listless fasti n g serves a n e xcellent purpose Usually the
”
logy person has been overfed Let her go back to
natu r e for a lesson on ho w to cure hersel f o f this diso r der
When a n a n imal has eaten too much it usually crawls a way
to some da r k a n d quiet p lace and fasts That is what the
woman w ho has overtaxed her digestion should do At
such times the a n imal drinks plentifully o f wa ter S o
sh o uld the human bei n g
When the digestion goes o n st r ike humor it Grant the
overworked stomach a n d i n testi n es a holiday Let them
suspend work fo r a time but o n ly for a short time Better
in my opi n ion a forty eight hour fast take n four times
a mo n th than a fast take n fo r eight co n secutive days
In ge n eral the body is bette r o ff for a n occasio n al relief
to the digestive organs But the r e are spe cific i n stances
o f the fast being o f g r eat be n efit
For insta n ce I k n o w a woma n whose beautiful fi gu r e
was seriously marred by a n enlarged abdomen When she
came to me fo r advice I asked her to stand and to walk
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MY
1 66
S E C RET S OF
B E AUTY
milk is food and so consider that I eat rather than d r ink
it Five minutes at least for a glass I always permit my
sel f S o metimes I take ten
The stomach having been gently p repare d for the cha ng e
it is ready by the second day for the water and lemo n
The lemon j uice not only makes the water more palatable
but it stimulates the liver s o clearing the complexion
When ready to b r eak the fast I have fou n d it well to
accustom the stomach to the change back to food by sippi n g
o r a n ge j uice that has bee n pressed i n to a cup or glass then
to begin eating again by consumi n g a small sweet ora nge
I returned to regular diet by the easy way o f soups and
gruels My lon gest fast was for four days a n d I consider
that o n e o r two days too long
In fact the safest method of fasting I co n sider the semi
fast with milk gruels and soups that I have desc r ibed
Thus o f the ma nn er Of fasts No w as t o their value
Catarrh I have known to be greatly relieved i f not wholly
cured by recurrent fasts Rheumatism in its ea r ly stages
has yielded to repeated short fasts and care to avoid sweets
a n d beef in the i n tervals bet w een these fasts
Even n ervous n ess that fo rm o f it which is aggravated
by rich a n d heavy foods I have known to disappear du r ing
the silence an d
o n e of these silent and da r k roo m fasts
rest bei n g pro bably the chief agents
A fairly good rule t o follow is that whenever the tongue
is coated the amount o f f o od may b e reduced or we would
do well to have no food fo r a sho r t time The coated
to ngue indicates that there is much dead refuse matte r
like the chok i n g ashes i n a furnace obstructing the body
If you can fast u n til the to n gue is o n ce more clean and
r ed you will be the gainer
Als o when yo u feel your body that is when you a r e u n
pleasantly conscious o f i ts weight and its handicap a fast
will u sually reliev e you But a warning Do not under
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T HE
FOUNDATION
B EAUT Y
F OR
167
take a fast while you are doing your heaviest wo r k Fast
when the demands upon you a r e lightest and fast if p o s
sible alone so that n o o n e will be a ffl icte d b y the irritable
temper that is liable to follow
No o ne looks he r best when she has not ha d enough sleep
L ittle li n es come about the eyes deep creases form in the
flesh about the mouth the eyes lose their light the facial
muscles their firm n ess the complexio n its freshness a n d
what is most important the mi n d loses its alertness when
we have not slept well Ir r itability and supersensitiveness
Show in face and manner
Lack o f soun d sleep is d ue to two causes a brain under
nourishe d o r over stimulated S leeplessness o r fi t fu l rest
less sleep follows nervous dera n geme n t There may be
indigestion cause o r result o f nervousness There may b e
wo r ry There may be mental fag o r nervous exhaustion
But whatever fo rm it takes the root of the matter i s nearly
always in the nerves This granted w e must look to r e
lievi n g the brain the main station along the li n e o r we
must supply it what it needs
B anish worry Take plenty o f exercise B reathe much
fresh air These a r e three excellent recipes for sleep
I f you fi nd that you have been over worki n g lighten your
work a little Try to spend a day o r two in the country
i f possible B ut this to a busy person is sometimes o u t
o f the q uestion
I f that is the case with you try to retire
an hou r earlier S ome d r ead retiri n g earlier because they
s ay they know they will not sleep
Try it at any rate Ly
ing in a dark roo m will bri n g a sens e o f rest that should
soothe the nerv es and tend towar d sleep
Make sur e that the room is at the right temperature fo r
your com fort I f it is too war m you will su r ely n ot sleep
I f it is cold to the poi n t o f discom fort you will lie awake
S ixty deg r ees Fah r or less is a good tempe r atu r e for a
sleeping room B e sure that the air o f your bedroom is
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MY
1 68
f r esh
S ECRET S OF
B EAUTY
I f it se ems stale o r stu ffy O pen the win d ows wide
an d eithe r mov e actively about the roo m o r g o in to any
other o ne while this freshening is taking place It would
be much better i f the ai r i n g had co n tinued all day and the
air were as near the freshness o f t he ou t o f doo rs as you
could make it
I f your head aches from the st r ain o f the day a ba n dage
o f cracked ice should drive the excess o f blood f r om the
head a n d pe r mit sleep I f o n the other ha n d you a r e
a n aemic a n d your feet are col d at night thrust them into
a tub o f hot mustard water Place the elbow i n the water
first to test its temperature I f it i s too hot for the elbow
it will ce r tai nly be too hot for the feet
I f you are annoyed while lyi n g awake by a gnawi n g
p r ovi n g that it is quite o r nea r ly empty
o f t he stomach
forestall this by sippi n g a cup o f gruel before goi n g to bed
This will warm the stomach a n d quiet the nerve disturba n ce
s oothi ng the body for its rest
A case o f p r otracted i n som n ia I knew to be cured in this
simple and it woul d seem did I not know the results trivial
ma nn er Lie flat upon the bed with a low pillow —
o r bet
ter n o pillo w at all — and loosen you r grip upon you r
muscles Uncurl them so to speak Relax as completely
as does you r house dog when he sleeps with his body
stretched o u t nose upon his paws befo r e the fire The n
breathe very deeply but gently counti n g s i x at each r espi r a
tion To aid i n thi s d eep breathi n g p r ess o n e nost r il shut
by laying the forefin ger firmly agai n st it a n d d r awing the ai r
through the othe r nost r il Repeat this a half dozen time s
cou n ti n g s i x at each d r awi n g in a n d letti n g o u t of the a i r
Call into use the hot water bottle or the warming pa n
Put on you r bed r oo m slippers if you awake with cold feet
Pret e n d that you are sleepy eve n though you a r e not and
let the eyelids slowl y close as thou gh d r oop i n g f rom their
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
1 70
whose expression lies where expression should in the flash
o f a sudden smile and the quick lighting o f b r illiant eyes
"
N e ed I recou n t the symptoms of disordered n erves
Not to mature wome n They k n ow them too well But
for the benefit o f my younger readers to who m nerves are
yet happily only names I will describe a few
Irritability o f temper is one the most commo n and the
one which occasions the least s ympathy
Exceedi n g sensitiveness which makes the person pro n e
to take o ffe n s e whe n no o ffense is i n te n ded is a n othe r
Dep ression o f spirits as o ften results from tired nerves as
fro m an overbu r dened liver
The habit of making monkey f aces which I have s o
o ften noticed in American wome n
The habit o f maki n g ma n y and needless movements
The girl who flings her head al o ft in aimless little gestures
may think she is vivacious but vivacity is rather o f the
mi n d tha n o f the body S he is merely r evealing the u n
pleasant secret that her nervous system is impaired
Capricious appetite is o n e o f the symptoms The nerv
ous patie n t eats either too litt le o r t oo much and she may
eat too little breakfast and t oo much din n er on the same
day
Insomnia is a sure and serious sign o f derangement o f
the nerves
The i n ability to sit still for a c o nsiderable time is still
a n othe r a n d ve r y bad Sign that the nerves are as you s ay
here ragged o r j umpy
I have seen one o f your most disti n guished a n d beautiful
women su ffer from this i n ability while at the theater and
to p reclude j okes by the parag r aphers I will explai n that
it was at a very good play whe r e n o person i n the normal
state could possibly be bored I have seen her lov ely hands
twitch in he r lap I have seen her k n ees c reate a silken
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THE
FO U NDATIO N
F OR
B EAUTY
1 71
tempest amo n g the folds o f he r gown Int o her face I have
seen that worried look come the look that so d i s figu r es
the av erage American fac e
This overwrought state o f nerves has many causes
S ometimes it i s a bad here d ity The daughters o f men
with the alc oholic habit o f overwo r ked and over worried
financiers o ften su ffer f rom this predisposition of nerv es
T he daughters o f fashionable mothers who lace d too tightly
o r who followed the will o the wisp o f society too per
s i s t e ntly for their health s sake o ften s o su ff er
S timulants taken by the victi m herself o ften p ro d uce it
B eware of these stimulants in many guises S ome of the
headache powders open the gate to acute ne rvousness
Don t use any without you r physicia n s endorsement
But I believe that the chief cause o f nervous n ess i s i n
temperance not o f alcoholic or other stimulants but o f
mental habits Worry causes a tho u san d break d owns I
never kne w work to cause o n e
For those symptoms of nervous a ffection which I hav e
mentioned I have tried home treatment with success One
o f the be st methods has bee n stretching S ta n ding o n my
tiptoes r aising my heels far from the floo r standing as
nearly in that straight line from toe to k n ee which Genee
does so admirably as I c an I stretch and stretch my body
fancying I am an India rubbe r woman an d getting great fun
o u t o f trying j ust how tall I can make myself
S ometimes
I raise my arms above my head with fi nger tips extended
and play again that I am trying to reach the ceiling
The value in stretching is largely in the pleasu r e one
gets from it For this reason I never continue o n e postu r e
after it has become tiresome D ropping t o my heels a n d
sta n ding with my soles flat upon the floor I stretch the a r ms
out at right angles with the sides The fact that one is
always moved to yawn with this ex e r cI S e shows that it
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MY
1 72
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
is valuable For yaw n ing is natu r e s violent means of
r idding the body o f a n excess o f impure air and securing
a new supply
I f yo u can yawn naturally do s o while stretching o r at
a n y other time I f you ca nn ot yawn naturally yaw n a r tifi
c i ally
that is simulate a yaw n It is at least a s helpful to
respiration as the Tu r kish bath is t o perspiration They
are both substitutes fo r the n atu r al p r ocess
Lettuce salad both at luncheon a n d di n ner o r raw o n ions
eaten with b r ead a n d butter at n ight before retiring calm
the nerves a n d aid sleep
Light — that is surface — massage is a good corrective
for nervous n ess Deep seeki n g the —
bone massage which
is used fo r live r complai n t a n d for obesity is too severe for
the nervous patient B esides s o ma n y o f the ne r ves lie
near the Ski n that the r egio n o f the skin is the real seat o f
operatio n s fo r cure Light massage by co axi n g the blood
to the surface and induci ng a new and stro n ger i nt e r fl o w
amo n g the n erves feeds and stre ngthe n s them
Electrical t r eatment applied t o the seat o f the ne rvous
a ff ection as well as to the sp me 1s a means that has stim
ne r vous patie n ts This I advise
u lat e d ma n y dep ressed
o n ly u n de r the supervisio n o r at least by the directio n o f
a physician
Long walks and for distu rbed nerves walki n g is better
than d r iving have cu r ed ma n y cases o f nerv e exhaustion
Col d plu n ges or showe r s are recomme n ded by ma n y
physicia n s for diminished n e r ve fo r ce But the patie n t
should be sure the advice is adapted t o her individual case
and s he should be su r e o f her heart Neither the plu n ge
no r the Shower shoul d be taken until a physician has pre
s cribed them
Cold sprays upon the spi n e g iven at Turkish baths are
tonic to the ne r v ous system They too c a n be applied at
h o me The rubber tube fix tures for a spray c an be bought
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S E C RET S
MY
1 74
OF
BEAUTY
may cause a sensation o f d i z ziness But this is not alarm
i n g O n the othe r hand it is encouraging It means that
the poor pale ill nourished brain is receiving as large a
blood supply as it needs and it will soon become used to
you r new generosity
I f yo u are n ot s o situate d that you can get to a garden
a roo f o r open window t r y to go alo n e to a room whe r e
you c an recline for a few minutes There let the muscles
become limp Foldi n g the a rms abo v e the breast or clasp
i n g the ha n ds loosely above the stomach will aid this
To be sure that both nostrils are doing perfect work
p r ess one shut by placi n g the fi n ger agai n st it a n d breathi n g
through the other Ge n erally you will discover that the
left nostril draws a larger volume o f air th rough it than
does the right I have noticed it v er y fre quently while
doi n g my deep breathing
Test the correct n es s o f your breathing by placi n g you r
ha n ds against y our abdome n I f its walls rise a n d fall
regularly and in obedie n ce to every breath you a r e doi ng
deep b r eathing I f not you have not maste r ed the a r t
In two weeks by repeati n g these exe r cises s i x o r eight
times a day for t w o o r three mi n utes each time you will
not only have lea rn ed how but you will have derived such
benefit from it that yo u would not eve r forget givi n g up
s o healthful and improvi n g a practice
"
n
hat does it do for o e
I c an hear as an ech o this
que stion impatie n tly put by practical Ame r ican wome n
That is the femi n i n e variatio n o f the question often heard
”
"
u
f
in America "
What do I get o t o it
Y o u get ou t o f it free well developed lungs
Y o u get
c hest expansio n
You get i f yo u begi n early enough i m
munity from that dread disease tuberculosis You get
quieted ne r ves a n d an imp r oved temper You get p u r e
bloo d which will make your complexio n clear You
e nergize the whole body and stimulate your vital fo r ces
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W
C H APTER
HO
T O A CQ U I R E A
XII I
P LE A S I
NG
V OI CE
would h a v e a beautifu l v oice shun its tw o greates t
e nemie s
coryz a ( cold in the head ) an d the evil emo
tions
Every woman would have a beauti ful vo ice fo r it is i n
deed one of the most excellent things in woman To my
mind it is the most desirable possession in the worl d But
then I am a singer I wish only to be a singer I f the
singing v oice were d enie d me I shoul d choose i f I might
have my choice first a lovely face then a lovely figure and
thi r d a cha r ming speaking voice
There have been beautiful women without agreeable
v oices but never a fascinating o ne The voice rather than
the eyes is the seat o f magnet ism M a n y a plai n woma n
has e njo ye d that invaluable gift of personal mag n etism and
students o f character have been ba ffled by it until they
guessed the riddle o f her voice Plai n women with low well
modulated v o ices w ith the heart note in them are mo re
da n gerous rivals than pretty women who sc r eech as pea
cocks P ainfully often the p retty fac e a n d figure are ac
companied by the ha r sh s queaki n g voice The reaso n is
the same that exists for the fact that pretty wome n seldom
cultivate the power o f charm Content with what nature
has g1v e n them they make no e ffort to be respo n sive or
e n tertaining Thei r voices fall gratingly upo n all ears but
their o w n which hav e been dulled by praise o f their natural
beau ty
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MY
1 76
S ECRET S
OF
BEAUTY
Every woman may not have a sweet voice but every
woman may have an ag r eeable o n e The pleasantest speak
i n g voice is more often made than born It is susceptible
o f cultivation
The uncultivated voice reflects the emotions as candidly
as the eye mi r ro r forth the soul Culture o f person a n d
voice gradually supp r ess o r at least rest r ai n this faculty
I f the voice be pleasa n t it should reflect o n ly pleasant
thi ngs This let it be understood applies o n ly to the speak
i n g voice I am n ot givi n g in this a r ticle a si ngi n g lesson
Anger suspicion j ealousy covetousness if they be felt
must be imp r iso n ed i n the spirit AS disfiguri n g t o v o i c e
as face are these which have been called the dark emo
”
I f t hey cannot be elimi n ated from the soul they
tions
must b e drive n o u t of the voice The dark emotio n s make
the voice harsh The silly emotions make it shrill Me n tal
and character poise a r e the father and mother o f the beauti
ful speaki n g voice
Coryza ( cold in the head ) is a menace to the voice
Hoa r se n ess hides the beauties o f a voice as a thick veil
the face o f a woman Colds Should b e avoided Or hav
i n g been contracted they shoul d as quickly as possible be
cured
Many women o f full habit who as they say
feel a
”
cold coming o n go immediately to the Turkish baths
a n d by d r astic treatment rid themselves quickly o f it
This
if followed by g r eat care t o p reve n t catchi ng a fresh cold
immediately after the bath is a good remedy S o t o o is
th e ancient o n e o f r etiri n g early a n d with many bla n kets
added to the usual amount o f bed clothi n g to coax a heavy
perspi r atio n This c an be greatly aided by the other O ld
fashio n ed remedy o f a glass o f hot lemo n ade A moderate
”
dose of qui n i n e is als o e ff ective in breaki n g u p a cold
The roots o f the disease havi n g thus bee n plucked up
the accompanying u gliness ca u sed by rheumy eyes swollen
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MY
178
S ECRET S
B EAUT Y
OF
I am glad to s ee tha t fi g and apricot paste has been
importe d from the Orient for P ersian women have su c
c es s fu ll
r
f
used
this
j
am
like
con
fection
an
d
medicine
o
y
many generations for the cure o f hoarseness
Weak eld er fl o w e r tea is an admirable remedy A n i n
fusion o f chickwee d is als o recommende d Thes e latter
should be inhaled The fig and apricot paste is o f course
for i n ternal use
Mme Pompadour the famous F rench beauty used to
clear her voice o f huskiness b y inhaling the fumes o f "
Pulve r ized myrrh 1 ou n ce ; amber 5 0 grains
A husky voice indicates that the th roat is d ry Our
ancestresses k n e w this and made their children dri n k much
sweet milk o r buttermilk t o remove hoarseness The poor
si n ger seeki n g relief f r o m that distress by sucking a lemo n
has been a subj ect fo r caricaturists fo r t w
enty years But
the ludicrous practice has a basis in common sense A
lemon is a broom fo r the throat A raw egg b eaten with
t he lemo n j uice se r ves that purpose and is soothing to the
burning throat
While I was si n ging in P hila d elphia I ac quired a bad
cold O n e o f the o ld families who had always extend ed
me the courtesy o f their home and friendship o ff ered me
”
a cough syrup they called S tewed Q uake r
It was s o
quickly effi cacious that I aske d for the formula Here it
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15
°
New Orl e ans molasses M pint ; bu tt e r 1 tabl esp oo nful ;
white suga r 1 tea s poon ful ; vinega r 1 tab le sp o onful
Cold comp r esses o ften cur e a sore throat over night Into
i c e cold water dip a fold o f cotton cloth
Wring it out
o n ly dry en o ugh to p r event its dripping Pin this tightly
around the thr o at with safely pins and over the compress
pin a fold o f flannel S oo n the heat f r om the neck causes
vapor and loosens the cold
In the morning remove the
compress an d massage the neck wi th oli v e oil
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T o AC QU I R E A
’
PL EA S I N G V O I C E
1 79
I f you value your voice try to avoi d that p r otracted u n
pleasa n t n ess which is k n own as a summer cold
To best understand how to prevent a cold let us pe r fect ly
understand i t s causes I s ay causes not cause for an
authority o n the subj ect has recently said that there are
four co n ditions that bri n g about the annoying and dangerous
”
condition we call a cold
There must be lowere d vitality In other w o rd s a p erson
”
may be in that state w e describe as run d own
When w e
”
are run d own o r seedy as they s ay in England o u r
resista n ce is lessened ; w e are like a besieged town whose
walls a re falling In this unprotecte d state w e have little
chance against a cold
A simila r condition is fatigue We are more p rone to
catch col d when we are tired because the good white cor
in
the
bloo
d
the
bo
d
y
s
de
fenders
are
lessene
d
by
l
u
s
e
s
c
p
wea r iness Also fatigue creates an excess o f certain gases
in the b ody carbonic aci d gas among others an d these
sel f poisons weaken the body and open the doors to cold
No w how to p revent a cold
Keep you r liver active
I f it becomes lazy take plenty o f exercise to stir it into
activity If the live r is torpid the poison it should take
care o f is cast upon the m u cous membrane irritati n g it
a n d causing catarrh
B e sure that your digestion is th e best an d that the i n
t e s t i n al tract is kept clear
Unless you d o this there may
be an irritation o f the lining o f the i n testi n es that will
cause all of the alimentary tract to become cata r rhal This
i n tu rn will extend to the nose and throat To avoid i n
digestio n b e careful that you eat only nourishing foods
Tuberculosis is more common in the poorer quarters o f
eve r y city especially o f London and p hysicians have c o n
cluded that this is not because they do not have enough
to eat but becaus e they eat too many starchy foods as
pa stry and potatoes an d too many sweets as candy
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S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
1 80
Prevent a c o ld by activity Why do you catch a cold when
you lie down without any cove r ing except the garments
you are wearing " B ecause whe n you are i n active you r
body is relaxed and the temperature is lo w ered Exercise
much keep the blo o d flowing briskly and you will generally
avoid colds
But be not satisfied with avoiding stagnant bloo d Avoid
stag n a n t air Keep the air circulati ng i n the r oom you o c
c up y
Try to keep a stream o f f r esh air flowing through
your room At a n y rate keep the wi n dow open two o r three
inches at the top no matter what the weathe r
Cold plu n ge o r shower o r sp o nge baths harden the skin
and help to make o n e immu n e from colds but befo r e b e
gi n ni n g to take them ask a physicia n s advice You may
n o t have enough vitality t o e n dure the ordeal
I f you h ave
your physician s O
the best time to begin is in the
summer
Avoid coughi n g when you ca n for coughi n g i s some
times merely a n ervous habit Besides a cough irritates
the li n i n g o f the throat
The old fashioned remedy fo r a cold o f swallowi n g a
mixture o f equal parts o f vi n egar and molasses is as good
now as it was when o u r g r a n dmothers dosed us plentifully
a n d e ffectually fo r hoarseness A pleasante r a n d perhaps
mo r e refined remedy is t he ple n tiful use o f honey Use
it f r eely o n bread o r with rice at table a n d swallow a table
spoo n ful of it whenever betwee n meals you feel the tickling
sensatio n that prece d es coughi n g
Gargli n g with strong salt water ofte n clears the throat
saving fits o f viole n t coughing
A good method a n d a simple one o f relief f r o m violent
coughi n g is to place upo n the chest hot cloths followed by
cold ones then hot the n cold s o alter n ati ng ma n y times
This re establishes natural circulation and restored circula
ti o n means relief f rom cold
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S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
1 82
I
weight o f the j aw T his a dd s to the impression o f streng th
o f character
but it s ubtracts much from the s u m o f the
beauty o f a face
I have refer r e d to the f ace because I wish to appl y it
as a determini n g factor in j udging the beauty o f the figure
The sculptor s test o f the beauty o f a face is its profile
I f the profile is strong a n d beautiful the face is e qually
st r o n g an d beautiful In other wo r ds the beauty o f a face
cannot exceed that o f its profile S o the determini ng view
o f a figure as to its beauties or its defects is the profile
vie w The woman who woul d imp r ove her figure shoul d
study it critically from the side Fo r this reason the woman
who sells her easy chair and buys a duplex o r triple mirror
i s an economist o f her own beauty
D e termine i n what respect your fi gure varies f r om the
canons o f beauty and try to conform to them Are you a
little too short for the breadth o f your figure " S tretch
i n g exercises should add somewhat to your height S ta n d
befo re the O pen windo w and with hands back to back the
fi n ger tips touching rise upon yo u r toes and stretch to y our
greatest height
S o the woman who would be taller Should recline a gr ea t
deal take as much sleep as possible P hysiologists hav e
roven
that
the
body
is
co
n
siderably
taller
in
the
morning
p
than i n the evening This is because the muscles and
j oints have r elaxed while during the varied exercises o f
the day they have cont r acted The mass o f muscles have
much in common with india rubber — they have elastic
p roperties
The critical view in the duplex or triple mirro r may r e
veal that the figure is too broad or too thick for i t s height
I f too b road the de fect is serious and will be di fficult if
not impossible o f remedy If too thick diet exercise o r
massage o r all of these may be summo n ed B readth r e
v eals the framework o f the bo dy indicating usu ally that it
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HO
W
T O I MPROVE YOUR FI GURE
1 83
massive You cannot change the framework o f a
The modification m u st
no r yet o f the human body
the layers o f muscles
c e in that which covers it
an
The figure that i s t oo thick that is fro m front
to
o f waist or from the middle o f the spinal col u mn
to t he point o f the bust may be materially improved
F o r this improv ement I woul d look first to the back
I alw ays notice instantly whether the back be st r aight and
flat or round and full F o r in that di fference lies much o f
the elegan ce or lack o f it in a female figu re I f the back is
full and the hips bulge the waist is large the fi gu r e has no
eleganc e ; i s indeed common I f you are the po ssessor
o f such blemishes to beauty you shoul d at once s et at work
to remove the de fects
Fi r st give attention t o your d iet Eat muc h less than
usual S ay reduce your diet at the beginning by o ne
quarter then o ne third and after that o ne hal f T he slim
mi n g results will soon become apparent
But d o not b e satisfie d with o n e means o f securing a
flatter back and slender hips Exercise especially in the
open air Walk walk walk begi n ni n g with a Sho r t walk
i f yo u are unaccustome d to walking and increasing the
distance each day
And i f possible have reco u rse to massage I hav e b e
fore said i n this series o f articles that I consider massage
the first aid to beauty It has always seemed t o me a
cure all fo r defects i n b e au ty It improves th e complexion
improves the figure brighte n s the exp ression an d makes
more beautiful the eyes Therefore t o give t he flat back
and narrow hips that are part o f an elegant fi gure I ad
vise d eep massage with an astringent liquid p r eparation
S ome adve n turou s women have taken i nternal remedies
under the a dvice o f their physician which is the onl y sa f e
way to take any inter n al obesity medicine I have never
a dv ised re d uction remedies to be s o t aken B y absorption
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S ECRET S
MY
1 84
OF
B EAUTY
however I consi d er this to be a good r emedy fo r ove r
d ev el opment
Oil o f swee t almonds 4 ounces ; tincture o f benzoin 1
d ram ; extract o f Portugal 4 ounces ; oil o f neroli 2 0 drops
This too is a good astri n ge n t lotio n
Tincture o f iodine 3 0 mi n ims ; iodide o f potassiu m 6 0
grams ; distilled wate r 1 0 ou n ces ; aniseed water 1 70
minims
Also this
Tinctu r e o f iodine 1 ounce ; alcohol 1 0 ounces
I f o n the othe r hand the critical side view reveals not
only the back a n d sides as too thi n but the e n tire outline
as too meager then this cream freely applied by light a n d
frequent massage i s an aid in curve maki n g a n d flesh
building
Fresh mutto n tallow 6 ounces ; lanoli n 6 ounces ; sper
mace ti M ounce ; cocoanut oil 4 ou n ces
This too is a good tissue feedi n g cream
La n oli n 60 grams ; o i l of sweet almo n ds 4 0 gr ams ; tan
nin 1 gram
Wome n w ho think their busts are too large write me
o fte n asking how they may reduce them Pe r so n ally I
do not approve o f any treatment except a gene r al dietary
and general exercise such as te n ds to reduce all po r tio n s o f
the body In v iew o f the ma n y requests I receive from
determined women beggi n g Such a recipe I give this Euro
pean formula but I protest against a n y woman using it
unless with the sanction of he r p hysicia n
Oil o f sweet almonds 1 00 grams ; white wax 5 0 grams ;
tincture o f benzoin 2 5 grams ; rosewater 2 5 grams ; ta n
nin 1 5 grams
After exercise and diet for improvi n g the figure there is
nothi n g so important as t o be well corseted I f possible
h ave your co r sets made to order
Pay less fo r a gown i f
necessary to order a better corset Get o n e that is pliable
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1 86
MY
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
S ome women are really tall enough but they look dumpy
The thing for them to do at o n ce is to reduce their weight
I f you r educe your hips you will look taller is an axiom
o f the beauty culturists
S o s et about it If yo u are sho r t
and t hi n then hasten to broaden your shoulders expand
an d inflate your lu n gs ; draw back your elb o ws and breathe
d eeply Fill ou t your bust a n d chest This will ac tually
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make yo u taller and appear more s o
S hort girls generally car r y themselves badly Keep your
head thrown back and your chin o u t The woman who
keeps her chin down in he r neck always looks shorter than
Take physical culture lessons all you short girls
s he is
w ho would be tall ; learn to walk g r ace fully and train your
muscles into suppleness Take walks in the O pen air with
a light buoya n t step your shoulders thrown back b r eathing
deeply through your nose And stretch yoursel f every
moment o f the day when yo u can
Thre e inches real o r apparent may b e adde d to a
woman s statu re by a little common sense
The short girl who would be tall should go in s ys temat
i cally for stretchi n g exercises
L ie down flat and stretch
o ut your arms as far as possible above your head
Also
—
practice neck movements
keep on stretching your neck
o u t j ust like a goose to elongate it
S tretch your legs out
taut and keep stretching yourself on tiptoe Hold up your
chin and you r abdomen and st r etch conti n ually H ere a r e
some excellent stretching exercises to make you supple and
straight — an d taller
Lie flat o n your back o n a hard mattress Plant palms
downward straight at the sides but do not grip the ticking
with them Now draw the legs up Slowly bendi n g at the
knees and holdi n g the knee s in the air a n d heels close to
the bo dy Now with a quick sudden movement thrust the
legs out straight and flat on t he bed the toes st r etched as
far as possible an d pointing down This brings into play
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H O W T O I M P R O VE
YO UR F I GU RE
1 87
every muscle from the knee to the tip o f the toes an d set s
the limbs tingli n g D raw up slowly counting seven and
inhaling ; hold position through seven count s and agai n
thrust down exhaling through the mouth Rest four
counts and repeat
Lie flat o n the back heels and balls o f the feet together
arms at sides palms down B reath e Slowly seven times
Now with the shoulders or u pper p a r t o f the trunk rigidly
flat o n the bed raise the middle o f the trunk generally
known as the waist line by the muscles o f the hips Inhal e
as you l i ft cou n ting seven ; exhale as you fall Next inhale
deeply and lift the lowe r part o f the trunk an d let it fall i n
quick succession repeating the movement p erhaps fi ve times
while inhaling once
Reverse the exercise d escribed above ; that is let the
lower part o f the trunk rest o n the bed and li ft from the
waist line up by means o f the muscle s o f the s houlder
blades U s e the same method s o f counting inhaling while
counting seven ; hold the position then lower the trunk
counting seven and exhaling Then work rapidly with
five quick uplifts to each breath
It is well to scan you r figu re occasionally in the mirro r
to satis facto rily do this y ou nee d a full length mirror
an d decide what are its flaws and how to rid yo u rsel f o f
t hem
Per h aps you have a dis figuring stoop Ri d yo u rsel f o f
this if necessary by wearing sho u lder br aces Yo u can
buy stron g reliable one s at mo s t d rug stores an d yo u c an
make them fo r your s elf with two s trong stitc h ed ban d s o f
muslin to which cross pieces ar e attache d Fasten the s e to
your cors ets by sa fety pins Perhaps that apparent stoop
is due not to actual bending o f the should e r s but to a roll
o f superfluous fat that accum u lates j ust below the neck o n
women w ho have attaine d thirty years or even before
Remove this u nsightly blemish by se v eral met h o d s F irst
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MY
1 88
S ECRET S O F B EAUT Y
throw away your pillow and lie with head and feet on a
level Fo r m the habit o f standi n g very erect S tretch
your arms Sideways and o n a level with your Shoulders
and twirl them rapidly backwar d
There are always several preparations which can be used
to advantage if applied outwardly Bathe the shoulders
every night with this rubbi n g it thoroughly i n t o the
shoulde r s "
Iodide o f potassium 1 ou n ce ; alcohol 1 2 ounces
I f your limbs are to o heavy as is liable to be the case
in America where women s figures a r e not s o well p ropo r
t i o n e d as in many other countries the lower part o f the
body being d isposed to stout n ess walk much This will
reduce the bulk o f the fat a n d make t he muscles solid
Occasionally I receive letters aski n g me t o tell a girl how
to make the limbs larger a n d more shapely Massage with
olive o il should enlarge them To i n quiries as to how to
make the thin ankles plumpe r I make the same reply
No fi gure is attractive if the hips a r e o u t o f proportion
to the rest o f the body They should b e neither t oo large
nor too small but in perfect accord with the rest o f the
figure I f the rest o f the figure is thin and the hips plump
the e ffect is ludicrous I f the bo d y is ample and the hips
flat the hips are incongruous Fashion may dictate broad
hips o ne se as on and nar r ow hips the next but their i d eal
si z e remains the same They must loo k as though they
be lo ng to that body an d no other
They sho ul d be am phora shape d as any sculptor will te ll
you A n amphora you know is a large Roman vase with
lines ex q ui sitely curved downward S tudy the pictures of
statues o f the ancient Greeks and you will comp r ehe n d the
beauty of the hip line in the natural fi gure They are
neither over heavy no r too thin
The bo n es Shoul d be well covere d but there should be
no fat creases an d no loose hanging ski n I f there is to o
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S ECRET S
MY
1 96
OF
B EAUTY
Fourth stand as I at fi r st described the body straight
Raise the
t he chest and head high th e heels together
han d s sidewise above the head b r ingi n g the tips of the
fi ngers together Then i n the posture that swimmers take
before they dive bend slowly forward keep in g the knee s
straight until the finger tips reach the ground Repeat this
u ntil fatigue warns you to stop N ever exercise until
weary
B ut even a perfect fi gure avails little unless you hav e
grace When I am asked how to b e grace ful I answer
B e care ful o f your moveme n ts whe n alo n e a n d u n con
”
scious o f the m when you are in public
Grace can be cul
There is no excuse for a woman who is n ot de
t i v a te d
fo rmed bei n g awkwar d There are deg r ees in grace but
eve r y woman may possess it to some exte n t
To the woman who wishes to e n hance her natural grace
having none desires to add it to her charms I
o r w ho
advise first o f all the study o f great paintings and statuary
that are models o f line and po i se L i n e is impo rta n t but
I have seen women w ho were all straight li n es to whom
nature had given n ot o ne gracious cu r ve who we r e never
The lo n g flowing li n es o f g r ace may be
t hele s s g r ace ful
assisted by careful dressi n g a n d this a dressmaker may do
fo r us but poise which is a much bigger a n d bette r wo r d
than pose i n cludi n g pose and muc h more comes from
withi n a n d may be self taught
I wis h that ev ery wo man w ho reads this chapter would
pay a visit to the nearest art ga llery and study if there be
Let he r
o n e a good copy o f the wonderful Venus de Milo
s tudy it until something o f the inward stre n gt h which gives
it its wonder ful bala n ce a n d power and perfect symmet r y
is reve aled t o her
One o f the secret s o f that ma rvelous statue is the calm
soul it expresses Again a n d again I have said that
serenity is the chief secret o f beauty and I point to the
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H o w T o I MPR O VE YOUR FIGURE
19 1
Venus de Milo in proo f o f my assertion The nerv ous
distraught ill centered woman reveals he r soul state by
nervous abrupt awkward moveme n ts
Compose yoursel f i n wardly a n d s e e with what grace
a n d stre ngth you stand before you r mi r ror Permit some
emotion to disturb you and note the ravagi n g unlovely
e ffect Grace is poise and poise means a calm soul cen
ter
F o r a grace ful carriage w e must consider how t o stand
how to walk and ho w to sit The late Hei n rich C onried
bei n g asked to describe a beauti ful w oman said
That
”
is simple S he i s harmonio us
What he meant w as that
s he was harmonious within an d ha r mo n ious without
the
i n ward harmony re v ealing itself in the outer There w as
no discord in her To stand in a drawi n g room as y o u
would stan d o n the ledge o f a mountain would be i nhar
mo n i o u s To S it on a high backed chair with straight li n es
as you would Sit upon an ott oman o r a t éte a t ete would
be st r ikingly discordant To walk into a ballroom as you
would s et forth fo r a walk along the beac h would be ludi
c ro u s
There must be in eve r y moveme n t harmo n y with
your surroundings and you must yourself be go v erned by
the immediate circumstances
L ola Montez the enchanting dancer and the dancing e n
chantress well kne w the v alue o f a graceful carriage a n d
o f the cheerful spirit o f which it is an exp ression
S he
said "
A crushed s ad o r moping spirit e speciall y if al
lowe d at a tender age when the body i s fo rming is a fatal
cause o f a flabby and moping body A bent and stooping
form is quite sure to c o me o f a bent an d stooping spirit
I f you would stand well s i t w ell walk well lie well sway
”
g r acefully o n the poised waist a s upon a pivot
Given a straight healthy spine straight stro n g bo n es a n d
the serene spirit o f which I have spoken and there remai n s
for grace two necessities knowledge and training One
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MY
1 92
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
must know ho w to hold the body correctly before she c an
s o hold it
The correct position o n e in which the balance o f all
parts o f the body is perfectly preserved is almost but not
quite erect It should incline very slightly forward above
the hips The weight o f the body shoul d rest fi r mly upon
the balls o f the feet The heels Should be close together
The knees should also be close neighbors The arms in
standing should hang naturally at the Sides with the elbows
close to the sides
I t should be
O n e position only i s p r oper fo r the chin
well up Notice any woman whose chin is lowered
S hadows fall about the hollows o f the face o r create an
illusion o f hollows there Every woma n looks five years
older with her chin lowered Also such a pose o f the head
will make wrinkles in the fairest a n d plumpest neck
Nature design ed w o man to hold her head as p r oudly as
that o f a mettlesome horse The ches t should be held up
an d o u t
Observe how a well t r ained soldier stands on parade
That is an excelle n t model He appears to have no abdo
men s o well is it hel d in His shoulder blades are flat as
a kni fe
I f the shoulder blades are not naturally flat shoulder
braces should b e wor n to co rr ect the p r oj ecti n g o n es and
to destroy the round shouldered e ffect s o dest r uctive o f
the beauty o f a figure These can be pu r chase d at d r ug
stores and department stores but c an be made at home at
slight cost S titch two lo n g st r ips o f coutil two a n d a hal f
inches wide in ma n y parallel rows to make it stro n g
Fasten these at the back j ust over the Shoulders with
another ho r izontal stitched ba n d o f the same width A
simple exercise for saggi n g shoulders is to draw the arms
behi n d you bend them at the elbows and thrust a cane
between the elbows and back
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S ECRET S
MY
1 94
O F B E AU TY
a d mirable hint The upper hal f o f the bo dy Shoul d b e
e v ident in the walk The lo wer sh o ul d be merely a means
to the end o f walking
The walk should invite attention only to the fine poise
o f the head the perfect carriage of th e chest the straight
ness of the back The limbs shoul d be forgotten A walk
which attracts attention to them is always an awkward
walk The upper pa r t o f the body sh o ul d be as free as
though it turned itself upon a pivot The lower part Should
be regarded and utilized merely as a pedestal for holding
In walking as i n standing the weight Should
t he U pper
rest upon the ball o f the feet The toes should be turned
Slightly o u tward The knee j oints shoul d move easily and
the m o vement o f the whole o f the lower part o f the body
sh ould be a stately and apparently unco n scious motion
S ome women there a r e w ho stand well and walk well
who s i t badl y Indeed they do not s i t They lounge
The same law o f balance shoul d hold in all That is the
weight should b e evenly distributed no portio n o f the body
havi n g to bear the lion s share o f the burden As a rule
the comfortable attitude is t he correct o n e in Sitting
though this is not true o f the lazy person who sits wit h
chin lowered upon breast and abdomen thrust fo rwa r d as
S it with the feet resting
a caricature o f the human form
upon the floor o r upon a footstool Never let them swi n g
without support S it straight o r rest against a straight
backed chair with the lower part o f the body pushed close
against the chai rb ack This is a much better way to rest
than the hal f lying h al f sitting posture that is so ungrace
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In stan d ing don t throw the hips far back They should
be straight in easy line with t he body In w alking do not
swing the arms In sitting keep the crown o f the head up
and back
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HO W
TO
I M P R O VE YOUR
F I GU RE
1 95
To test your carriage pass the han d across the back
I f the ends o f the shoulder blades can he felt at a ligh t
touch o f the fingers the ca r riage is incorrect The sh o ul
ders must be drawn farther back
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W
CHAPTER XV
A Y S O F R ED U C I N G
SA F E, E A S Y
W
E I GHT
N this chapter I shall try to answer that which I call
”
The Great American Q uestion
In other countries
where I have lived a n d visited women ask What shall I
”
"
do to remain y oung
In America women h ave by their
intelligence solved that problem Here the torturing ever
"
recurring question is What shall I do to be thi n
Fat i s the greatest foe to American beauty But it is a
self created foe American wome n lear n ed in all other
matters o f personal hygiene ignore that which is chief the
hygiene o f the table
They eat
I will not s ay that Ame r ican women overeat
the wrong things In food they deal in extremes which
are always detrimental whether to beauty or to morals
They eat what is ve r y sweet o r ve ry sou r They eat what
i s very cold or very hot
They eat foods that are too highly
spiced o r underdone Extremes always extremes " And
when they have had t oo much o f this extreme food and the
tortured stomach revolts they go to another extreme and
fast which is in my opi n ion a most pernicious ext r eme
One fac t that the stout woman should keep ever before
her mind as a sig n al light before a ship battling its way to
port is that f resh air is a destructive agent to fat Oxygen
bur n s carbon T o make this clea r let me ask you if you
have notice d how a dyi n g fire flames up when a draught o f
cold air is turned u pon it
That is p recisely what happe n s
when a woman who is to o fat goes o u t for a walk Carbon
which is in the great folds o f flesh that lie upon her abdo
men and blanket her hips is also a component part o f the
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S ECRET S O F B EAUTY
MY
1 98
reduction in weight I f a woman sees that her belts have
become t oo la rge and that she needs a dressmaker o r tailor
to take in her gowns abou t the hips i t does n ot matter
whether she has lost fi v e o r twenty poun d s S he has ac
complished that which s he resolved to do S he has grown
beautifully less
I have kn o wn women w ho never walke d more than a few
blocks at a time accomplis h a ten mile w alk in a mor n ing
The wisdom o f this I always questione d Walking i s of no
permanent value unles s i t is regularly done B ette r th r ee
miles every morni n g than ten miles twice a week B esides
an exceedi n gly lo n g walk i s a severe tax u pon muscles u n
u sed to walki n g The muscles must b e treated ge n tly a s
little children They should b e slowly accustomed to thei r
task
Riding is an excellent reducing agent A morning gallop
in the park o r alo n g country roads will soon dimi n ish pon
Golfi n g is excelle n t S wimmi n g is admirable
d er ou s flesh
D rivi n g because the body is e n tirely passive is o f little u s e
I n door exercise i n a gymnasium is better much better than
nothing but outdoor exercise distances it by o n e hu n dred
per ce n t Although the windows o f the room be opened
wide the ro om does not p ro vide half the oxygen yielded b y
—
f
the great out o doors
A fter the burning aid o f fresh air in im p o rtance comes
diet The stout woman should try reduci n g the qua n tity o f
her food o n e third then o n e half S he should eliminate
from i t these dishes
Pork v eal bea n s peas fat beef or mutton cauliflower
potatoes milk co n tai n i n g c r eam puddings pies ca n dy
sugar white bread eels salmo n chocolate beets butter red
wine ice cream
S he shoul d substitute for them
Lean meats eggs gr een vegetables ( as spinach stri n g
beans asp aragus beet t 0 p s ) oranges whole wheat graha m
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W
S AFE
AY S O F REDU CI N G WEIG H T
1 99
gluten bread white brea d toaste d t h in an d crisp saccha
rin e instead of sugar f r esh o r dried fruits
A famous woman rid hersel f of ten superfluous pounds
i n a mo n th by a modification o f the milk diet S he dran k
two quarts o f skimmed milk a day and ate but o n e meal
S he dined at seven with her famil y H er breakfast and
luncheo n consisted o f two glasses o f skimme d milk S he
sipped the milk giving herself five minutes for each glass
for she knew milk w a s rather a food than a beverage an d
that since it passed speedily into the consistency o f cheese
in the stomach it must be Slowly swallowed The remainde r
o f the two quarts o f her d ai ly s t i nt she sippe d wheneve r
hu n ger gnawed and she w as tempte d to return to her o ld
diet of what in America you call three s q uares a da y
S everal o f my friends have re d uce d their weight by the
as long as their s t rengthl
e xpedient of taking a lo n g walk
would permit be fore break fast but the nearly uncontrol
lable appetite fo r the de ferred meal created by this e xercis e
is a discouraging element Others have been success ful in
reduci n g flesh by foregoing their breakfast altogethe r Man y
dieticia n s agree tha t breakfast is the fattening meal
And there is reason to believe t he stomach nee d s breakfast
less than any other meal since there has been no special
o utlay of strength during the night o f rest as during the da y
o f activity
The fashionable w oman use d to think that she shoul d res t
immediately after a meal N ow she walks slowly o r at
least stands fo r twe n ty minutes a fter each meal being con
v i n c e d that if she sits o r lies down after a meal he r abdo
men will be come distended o n e o f the most u n sightl y f orms
o f superfluous flesh
Massage a n d baths are an un d oubted aid in the re d uction
of flesh Massage should not be made to take the place o f
exercise It should supplement it It is e stimated tha t
thorough massage given b y a skillful operator is e q uivalent
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MY
2 00
S ECRET S O F
B E AU T Y
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to a seven mile walk But if this be true s o far as the physi
cal e ffort i s co n cerned there is no substitute for the carbon
destroying bath o f o xygen
No room can be s o well ventilated as to approach the
purity o f the outer air The woman w ho is taking massage
to reduce her flesh should not rest afterward The massage
Should b e followed by a dip into a bathtub o f tepid water
a sc rub and a salt rub a cool spra y and dressing calisthe n ics
or a walk
Do not allo w your masseuse t o use oil o r col d cream
Talcum powder is best for the woman who wa n ts to be thin
Reduction medicines I do not advise Certainly I should
n ever use o n e o f them i n ternally without co n sulting a physi
ci an a n d havi n g the compound analyzed
There a r e drastic
remedies that reduce the flesh an d demoralize the digestive
apparatus Far better i n this i n stance the ill than the rem
edy and its co n seque n t evils
S ome p reparations of an absorbent nature I have known
to be used with go o d results Most of these contain iodi n e
There are several soaps used for the purpose o f massage
all co n tai n i n g iodi n e After receiving my physicia n s em
d o r s emen t a n d havi n g the soap a n alyzed by a scrupulous
chemist there would seem to be no dange r atte nding their
use
This formula is safe and if persistently used should be
e ff ective as a n abso rbe n t remedy I have known corpule n t
beauties w ho took it internally but I should never b e so
dari n g "
Ti n cture o f iodine 3 0 mi n ims ; iodide of potassium 60
grai n s ; hyposulphite soda 2 0 grai n s ; distilled water 7
ounces ; aniseed water 1 70 minims
I have before recomme n ded Turkish baths fo r flesh r e
duction That advice I must qualify by explai n i n g how they
should be taken for there are thi n women w ho take Turkish
baths to fatten them a n d with success
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M Y S E C RE T S
2 02
OF
B EAUT Y
day out of doors The more active the outdoor exercise the
better stoppi n g this side the p oint o f exhaustion
Reduce the am o unt o f food o n e hal f a n d cha nge the diet
ary f rom the fat producing foods to bo n e and muscle make r s
And in conclusion a war n i n g As the muscles diveste d
o f blanketi n g flesh seem to shri n k be sure that the skin fol
lows them instead o f hanging baggily a bout them in ugly
wrinkles or creases
To contract the Skin that surrounds the diminishe d mu s
cles bathe it frequently in cold wate r Bathe with a sponge
dipped in cold water o r wrap the parts about with col d
compresses
I f this method which is called freezi n g the muscles is
not successful this astringe n t cream applied every morning
and eve n ing should be
Glycerine 5 ounces ; mutto n tallo w I pou n d ; tincture o f
benzoin 2 drams ; spirits o f camphor I d r am ; powde r e d
alum
dram ; o range flower water 2 ounces ; Russian isin
glass I dram
One day not long ago a charmi n g young woman came t o
Her face i n dicated deep dist r ess
see me
”
You are looking charmi n g I assured her
”
retu r ned
I am looking
s he
No no madam
wretched dread ful I am positively ashamed o f myself
”
But w hy " I asked
Don t you s ee " I am over weight I am twenty seven
My height is fi ve feet three inches I weigh o n e hundred
and Sixty fiv e pounds
Your cu rv es are a bit ample I admitted
You know very well dear madam that I am like a pillow
I lived at a summer hotel where they had
o f feathers
really good food and behold me I c an hardly believe that
I gained thirty po unds in Six weeks What Shall I
”
do "
Firs t understand that you cannot lose the flesh muc h
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W
2 03
f aster th an you gained it
You will need at least a month
SA FE
A
Y S O F REDUCI N G WEIG H T
.
lose the thirty p ounds
But I must los e them madam Think o f appearing in
the opera like this " Thi n k o f dancing n o t only with a man
”
but with thirty extra pou n ds What shall I do "
I repeated the litany o f re d uction "
Exercise diet ah
”
s ti n en c e perspiration
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B ut ho w "
Exercise until you are tired an d th en d on t rest but
exercise some more Rest fro m o ne kin d o f exercise b y
”
t ry ing another
”
What exercise " persiste d my too plump frien d
First a series o f exercises that force yo u t o breathe
deeply B egin as soon as you rise in the morning and by
the w ay rise at least an hou r earlier than usual Y o u fat
ten as much by too much sleep as from t oo much foo d In
your night robe or if you prefer it in a bathing o r gym
n as i u m suit
go to the window fling it wide open and
standing with the a rms raise d above you r hea d palms o u t
ward elbows straight inhale deeply an d slowly counting
eight Hold the air while yo u count eight This gives the
air a chan c e to sweep through the air cells o f the lungs
bathing them with its freshness Then expel the air slowly
while you count eight Repeat this u n til a Slight dizziness
warns you that y ou have do n e enough
Then begin the be n ding exercises With fingers ex
tended bend slowly u ntil the fi n ger tip s reach the floo r
Then rise slowly and raise the arms above the head D o
not raise the shoulders but slowly bring the tips o f the fi n
gers together above the head Then gradually bend for
war d u n til the tips o f the fingers reach the floor Then
back and up again
This exercise is di ffi cult especially for the sto u t B u t
persist in it and it will reduce t he o v erfatness o f t he ab
domen
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S ECRET S O F BEAUT Y
MY
2 04
Y
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will b e tired by this time but you must not en co u r
age the feeli n g o f drowsiness and torpor a n d disinclination
for further e ffort that creeps over you Banish all thoughts
o f goi n g back to bed Instead begin your rolli n g
There is no mystery abo ut rolling It is simply
what the name indicates Down upon the floor you
go and roll over and over swiftly not slowly as a
po rpoise rolls The porpoise yo u will obs e rv e is not a
sle n der a n imal Roll over as a puppy ti n gling with the
j oy o f life r olls i n the dust when at play Roll quickly
Make at least eighty revolutions be fore stopping N ow you
are ve r y tired The u naccustomed perspiration appears
That is good To r e
u pon your face and body in drops
duce weight you must p erspire Most fat people have lost
the a r t o f perspiri n g
But you have n ot fi n ished your exercise Don t think
Don t thi n k o f a nap after your strenuous
o f b r eakfast
hal f hou r Get a skippi n g rope a n d go o u t o n the roo f o n
the fi r e escap e o r i n to a vacant room a n d j ump the rope
twe n ty fi v e tim es This the fi r st mor n ing The second
mo r ni n g make it fifty a n d co n ti n ue i ncreasi n g the n umber
u n til a flutter at your hea r t hints that you have taken e n ough
o f this exercise fo r th e present
Then try some new dance steps I f you have done these
thoroughly you will have spe n t a n hou r a n d a quarter at
reductio n Go then to your bath r oom and take a shower
fi r st wa rm then cool then gradually becoming cold With
a big Turkish towel rub yoursel f thoroughly dry Come
”
back i n a week a n d tell me ho w much you weigh
”
O n e hu n dred sixty one s he said
But that is no t
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It is not I answered
We must do better This
week after you have fi n ished your exercises indoors you
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must d r ess at o n ce and go for a long w alk o r ride
”
"
But b r eakfast
s he aske d faintly
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M Y S E C RET S
2 06
.
O F B EAUT Y
I f the hunger fo r sweets seizes you let f r uit tablets dis
solve i n y our mouth and swallow them slowly This will
satisfy for a time the cravi n g for sweets that is as torment
ing in its way a s the cravi n g for drink and as hard to cure
The fruit tablets are a make believe ca n dy a n d yet are so
largely fruit and water that the sugar i n them is hardly
”
a calculable quantity
B ut I am hungry nearly all the time ; hu n gry for other
”
than sweets Hungry fo r substantials
I f you insis t upon eating as much as you wish I c an
do nothing for you Y ou must leave the table with you r
appetite unappease d
Drink a great d eal o f water That refreshes the body
but helps to destroy the appetite fo r food Normally you
should drink ten glasses a day Increase the amou n t to
twelve o r f o u rteen With your buttermilk for breakfast
your lean meat dry toast a n d co ffee at luncheon a n d the
same with white wine at night you r stomach will b e satis
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fi ed
But do y our wate r drinki n g discreetly B egin in the
mor n i n g as soon as you rise by sippi n g two glassfuls
Fi n ish the day by the same quantity The other should be
drunk between meals o r at most one glass Should be d runk
a day
Keep befo re your mind th e wor d Abstain
Remem
ber that you must abstain from sweets from pastries f r om
milk from cauliflower potatoes lima beans cor n all the
vegetables and cereals that fatten
At the end o f the third week she came back perceptibly
”
lessene d
Eight pounds less this week she said t r i u m
n e hu n dred a n d forty six
My
weight
is
now
o
l
h
a
n
t
p
y
”
Only eleven p o unds o f the thirty remain
”
"
Do yo u perspire well
Better than I did But not freely
Then the pores must be educated S ome pores must go
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S AFE WA Y S
OF
REDUCIN G WEIGHT
2 07
to school to learn their functio n When all else fails a
course o f Turkish or Russian baths will do this Take them
as you p refer I
a t home in a cabinet or a t public baths
pre fer the Russian baths because they a re moist and they
do n o t force the lungs to b rea the hot air The cabinet baths
pe rmit an opening for the head so that while the body is
perspiring the lu n gs may be i n hali n g cool pure air
Take on e of these baths every morni n g Keepi n g the
feet in hot water facilitates the per spi r ation At the e n d o f
a week you will find that the po res will have le af fie d their
o ffice and perspiring will have become easy While you are
taki n g the cours e o f baths you may relax somewhat f rom
the exercise O r you may take i n stead deep o r k n eading
massage the sort in which your masseuse s k n uckles seem
”
to reach the b o nes
At the end o f the week my patient wrote me
I canno t
call to day but rej oice with me I have lost eight pounds
this week Only th r ee more t o spare I am keeping t ailo rs
”
and dressmake rs busy taki n g in my f r ocks
Th r ee days later s he appeared looking radiant It was
a s though a half doze n blankets that hid her beauty had been
removed Her charms had bee n hidden by too much flesh
a s the flame o f a lamp is o bscu r e d by a soiled chimney
”
One thing I forget I said a n xiously scrutinizing her
”
face fo r saggi n g skin
But you do not need the warning
No I had a facial massage every d ay to keep the skin
o f my face firm
A n d the re is no sign o f a pen d ulous chin I said a d
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mi r i n gly
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I kept the chin fi rm by freezing the muscles into hard
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n ess with cold wate r compresses and applications o f i c e
Here is how a n other you n g friend o f mi n e lost ni n eteen
pounds in five weeks W ithout i n j u ry to her health
B efore she fairly realized that she was putting o n flesh
She found hersel f with all the symptoms o f overweight
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MY
2 08
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
Her face was full a n d pu ffy Her cheek muscles sagged
—
giving he r face the j owl like look that suggests the lower
a n imals tra n s forming beauty s face into a beastlike s em
blance and that beast not the handsomest nor most poetic
o f the o r d er As s he surveyed her figure in the mirror
particularly i n the back it looked broad a n d coarse More
over she w as co n scious o f her weight H er moveme n ts had
become clumsy When we are at normal weight that is
when w e are o n ly so heavy as nature intende d a n d nature
abho rs o v er fl es he d women we a r e not o ppresse d by our
bodies We feel s o light and our minds are so capable of
domi n ati n g o u r bodies that we scarcely realize that e have
a n y weight That bi r dlike lightness o f body is a sure Sig n
that w e are at our best
My f rie n d havi n g a lo n g s ocial season before her when
B ut
she wished to look her best resolved to trai n down
how " S he adopted n o n e of the cure —
alls prescribed by stout
wo en w e meet at Turkish baths S he did what is the
wisest course when w e are able to adopt it went st r aight
t o her physician and asked his advice
This w as W ise because her physicia n knew her co n s ti tu
tion as she knew her alphabet He k n ew which w ay lay
peril S he must not take the bee f a n d hot water cure b e
cause she w as p redisposed to rheumatism and authorities
claimed a n d this physician believed that in beef there is
at least seventeen per ce n t o f uric acid The body is able
to e liminate o n ly a limited amou n t of the acid a n d the intro
duction i n to it o f such excess over that amount would i n
v o lve some remai n i n g i n the system This should be
avoided in cases o f what the physicia n s call u ric acid dia
”
thesis
Also his patie n t was ne r vous s o he must not permit her
that starvation system of diet which reduced her nervous
force Not being an especially vigorous woman he was
unwilling to run any risk o f impairing her vitality
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MY
2 10
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
only thre e or four sho r t city squares but after two weeks
when natu r e had become accustomed to the n e w r egime n
s he was able to walk four miles a day two before a n d t w o
afte r noon
I f as Sometime s happe n ed she returned from her walk
faint s he w as allowed to dri n k a c u p of hot b ut ve r y weak
tea and if nature seemed to demand more suste n a n ce she
d r a n k t w o cups But from these cream and sugar were
ste r nly p r ohibited
The results I have told you A n d my frie n d n ever looked
s o lovely and s he assures me s h e has never felt s o well
There w a s n o expe n sive j ou rn ey n or stay at the baths ; n o
daily massage The loss o f those ni n etee n pounds cost he r
o n ly sel f de n ial the o n e fee fo r her physicia n a n d the tailor s
charge s fo r taki n g in all her gowns four inches about the
hips a n d two at the waist
While w ays to grow thi n do n ot especially i n terest me I
ca n not help hea r i n g co n ti n ually o f them Whe r ever I go
the co n versatio n o f the women I meet te n ds to fat All are
i n terested b ecaus e those w ho a r e fat wish to be thi n a n d
those w ho are thi n fear they may become fat All woma n
kind it would seem has orga n ized into an army o f fat
fighters
To the baths go women w ho weigh two hu n dred pou n ds
a n d whe n they return from Carlsbad from Marie nbad a n d
elsewhe r e I pass them i n the Bois without saluti n g them
because i n thos e s i x weeks they have lost fifty pou n ds a n d
are thin beyo n d recogn ition It is marvelous One of th e
g r eat physicians w ho crossed the Atla n tic r ece n tly to treat
a New York society leade r for obesity received
for
his services fo r two weeks They will do much a n d pay
greatly to r educe their flesh these rich but what of us who
are n ot wealthy "
We can choose and follo w some o f their methods o n ce
This is one method which a friend
w e have learned them
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S AFE WAY S O F REDUCI NG WEIGH T
2 11
mine uses to keep he r weight thi r ty fi v e pounds belo w
what it fo r merly w as It is simple being baths three times
a week in ho t salt water I n to a n o rdi n a ry bath tub she
empties t wo pou n ds of table salt S he pours water i n to the
tub until it is t w o thirds full a n d remai n s i n the tub fo r
twenty minutes After this s he rubs her body briskly down
with alcohol a n d retires
Like most methods o f quick reduction this may b e c r i ti
Therefore while I am ac
c i s e d as temporarily weake n i n g
q u a i n t i ng y o u wit h this treatme n t for obesity I do not
recomme n d it to o n e who must keep her stre n gth at its full
est A vacation o r a time wh en your tasks whether they
be business or p rofessional or social are light would be the
best time for this measure for reductio n o f weight
From the harem o f Co n sta n ti n ople through an escaped
i n mate comes the news that when a member of it becomes s o
fat that she i s a formless s ea o f flesh the overlo r d o r ders
that s he have bone deep massage daily with this lotio n
Iodide o f potassium 2 ounces ; camphor water 2 ounces ;
alcohol 2 ounces
If while this deep massage a n d the hardship fo r a woman
o f the harem o f eati n g no more o f the delicious T ur kish
paste are co n ti n ui n g her face grows hagga r d a n d lines ap
pear i n it it is bathed s i x times a day with "
Witch hazel 1 ounce ; rosewater I ou n ce
S pecialists are always prepared to hear the complai n t
”
I don t eat much
All their patie n ts tell them this a n d
all o f them believe it to be true but i n n ea r ly eve r y case it
is n t A few admit that they are e n o r mous feede r s but s ay
It is impossible for me to control my appetite
A beauty
Specialist I know laughs at this
When you are hu n g ry between the two meals I will per
”
mit you to dri n k wate r he o r ders
Hot water o r cold
as you like but dri n k it very slowly a n d never take a glass
of water unless there is the j uice o f a lemon in it I f you
of
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S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
2 12
keep the stomach filled with water you will be less hungry
I f you feel a g n awi n g d r i n k more water
This is the dietary per mitted by an autocrat at o n e o f
the great Europea n baths
No liquo r ; all fish except trout and salmon ; chicken ;
bee f ( in very small and rare portio n s preferably raw ) ;
eggs ; n uts ; all acid f ru its such as cranbe rr ies cher r ies
peaches a n d blackber r ies ; rhuba r b ; beans ; carrots ; cabbage ;
cauliflower ; aspa r agus ; squash ; tomatoes ; onions ; lettuce ;
cele r y ; homi n y b r ow n o r rye bread ; Dutch cheese
These a n d n othi n g more composed the food No servant
could be b r ibed fo r a potato a n d all tu rned rou n d eyes o f
in n oce n t wo n der upo n you if you asked fo r a sweet cake
B ecause the cha n ge to this diet was s o radical the docto r
did not insist upon viole n t exercise but he kept his r educi ng
patie n ts o u t of doors a n d encouraged them as did the P aris
physicia n to keep movi n g
While you are reducing dep end upon a tap e measure
rather than the scales to dete r mine you r loss o f weight
Measure your hips and waist and upper arm Fat is bulk
maki n g but it takes a la r ge amou n t of it to weigh a pou n d
A woman my neighbor at the baths I visited had lost th r ee
i n ches about the hips a n d t w o about the waist yet had lost
only th r ee quarte r s of a pou n d i n weight
I f I were eve r encumbe r ed by too much flesh I should
fi r st give the rice t r eatme n t a tho r ough trial It is simple
a n d cheap a n d has the me r it of n ot r educi n g too rapidly so
that the facial muscles have time to adj ust themselves to
the n ew co n ditions and the skin o f the face to als o adj ust
itself p r eve n ti n g the haggard n ess and aged look that follow
t o o r apid reduction
The r ice cure c an b e explained in a paragraph a short
It consists i n an exclusive diet of rice
o n e even i n a line
a n d milk o r rice with a little butter a n d salt to make it
palatable It is a leisurely a n d for that reason healthful
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MY
2 14
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUT Y
season and besides the food is o f a lighter nature an d
co n tains more acid than in winter
One fashionable Parisien n e betook herself to her ch atea u
last month for her annual rebuildi n g and for the first th r ee
weeks lived exclusively o n grapes and Slept in an open air
chamber o n the roof o f her cou n try home S he grew clea r
o f skin a n d lissome as a girl
A third reason fo r utilizing summer in your re d uction
treatment is that it is the season which favo r s perspi r ation
A n d fat flows fr o m our body o n the streams of perspi r atio n
The latest wo r d in the matter o f obesity cures is that fat
bei n g composed chiefly o f water must be squeezed as a
spo n ge is to r id it o f the liquid with which it is satu r ated
Whe n ever the r e is need a supply soon follows A school
o f masseuses have adopted this theory of fat a n d have go n e
to work he r oically to p rove their theory O n e o f these
w ho has go n e to you r country from S weden gives the n e w
massage for three hours at o n e treatme n t S he beats a n d
ounds
a
n
d
squeezes
the
flesh
until
it
is
soft
as
putty
The
p
results are amazi n g I know an actress w ho in o r der t o
play a vampi r e woman must needs reduce thi r ty pou n ds
This she did last summer becomi n g sle n der a n d straight as
a you n g p ine tree and with n o lesseni n g o f her vitality o r
beauty
In Lond o n they are j umpi n g the fat down
O n ce a
day or oftener the overweight clan j ump up and down fifty
times
In Paris the s o called electric blanket has many advo cates
and frie n ds The perso n who desires to reduce her flesh
wraps this bla n ket about her attaches to its faste n i n gs the
elect r ical powe r f rom the lights i n her room a n d prese n tly
Completely relaxed as i n
she is d r ipping with perspiration
a Turkish bath She lies in her o w n room o n her ow n bed
a n d loses u n des ir ed ounces and pounds After twe n ty mi n
utes o r more s he springs from her blanket hurries to her
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S A F E WAY S O F RED U C I N G WEIGHT
2 15
bath room and turns o n the cold spray o r shower or takes
a plu nge i n a tub o f cold water This done twice a day
has been the secret o f the va n ishing flesh o f many beauties
at Ostend w ho had the g r atificati o n o f remai n i n g i n fash
io nab le ce n ters a n d enj oyi n g life instead o f immuri n g them
selv e s at stupid baths
These are e ffective new methods fo r general reduction
Often however there is need only o f reducing certain por
tions o f the body that are to o redundant Ma n y w omen are
an n oyed especially when they wear eveni n g dress by an
unbecomi n g roll o f fat lying between the should ers This
has been removed by the simple mea n s o f patti n g it briskly
with first one hand then another a fterwards by stroki n g it
first with o ne hand then the o ther the strokes being firm
and dow n ward o n es I t is better still t o dip the palms in
cold water before begi n ning this manipulation
I ro n i n g
the flesh roll with a l u mp of i c e is a n oth er method success
ful in several instances o f which I have personal knowledge
If the chin has begu n to multiply the ice iron i n g is u seful
especially if the i r o n ing be followed at night by tyi n g up
the chin by a muslin o r rubber bandage that is fastened
about the head
S ometimes the excess o f fat is in the face givi n g the
cou n tena n ce a gross look robbi n g it of much o f its apparent
intellige n ce and mu ffl i ng fi n e features i n a blanket o f supe r
fl u ou s flesh
S uch a face has rid itself o f this i n cubus
and emerged youthful rosy a n d well proportioned becau se
as its owner whispered to me she n eve r retires without first
passi n g a small lump o f i ce over her face always with U p
wa r d strokes I f the touch o f the i c e is u n pleasa n t o r i f
there is i n your composition a tendency to n euralgia w r ap
the i c e in a thin layer o f abs o rbe nt cotton o r in a piece o f
gauze o r cheesecloth
Individual t r eatment for overweight can be treated ac
cording to individual needs S tudy your nee d s and adapt
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M Y S E C RET S
2 16
.
OF B E AUT Y
your knowle dge to t h em Keep in min d these f o ur princi
ples of flesh re d uction A ll methods d epend upon inc reased
perspiration lessene d q uantity o r di fferent quality of food
‘
more vigorous exercise o r that which reacts upon certain
porti o ns o f the body or greater freedom f rom clogging maf
Those bath powder s
t e r i als which are wastes of the body
which are adve rtised as reducing age n ts usually contain o ne
o f th e salts which ind u ce the latter re s ults
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MY
2 18
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
must learn a lesson from her fat sister It is not t o worry
Almost always the fat woman is care free S he is amiable
S he never worries and never n ags Dia n e de P o i t er s the
great Fre n ch beauty had to struggle agai n st the en c r o ach
ment o f a sea o f fat The reaso n may be found i n her
”
answer to the question "
Why are you s o beautiful "
Her reply w as
I am beautiful because I never worry
The thi n woma n must stop worryi n g
The thi n w o man is a spendthrift o f vitality S he is neve r
still when there is a cha n ce for activity It w as of such a
woman that the sardonic bachelor says
S he cuts up
quilt pieces j ust fo r the fun o f sewi n g them together agai n
By which the bachelor meant t o co n vey that she did needless
work The thi n woman must learn to rest
The woman w ho is too slender t o please herself o r others
must look to her diet Thos e foods which her fat Sister
must eschew she must habitually eat
S he too must ha v e he r daily baths a n d her massage but
they must be radically di fferent from those take n by the
woman w ho would diminish her flesh
S ince her greatest hop e o f i n creased flesh lies i n food I
will first discuss that He r e i s a list o f those edibles which
co n tai n the sta r ch or sugar o r both that are needful for
the taki n g o n o f flesh
Thick soups as bisque cream of celery cream o f cor n
puree o f peas a n d puree o f beans ; fat beef fat mutto n hot
co r n bread hot biscuits wheat cor n and buckwheat cakes
plenty o f butter ho n ey ; salad dressi ngs i n which the r e is
more o i l t ha n vi n ega r ; chocolate pastries puddi n gs bo n
bo n s ba n a n as peaches pru n es beans peas cauliflower
asparagus potatoes rice gelatines
S he should dri n k cocoa or chocolate made with milk ;
red wines if wi n es be drunk at all ; tea o r co ffee if dru n k
at all must be taken with cream a n d sugar S he should
dri n k more hot water than cold
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Ho
wT o
F LE S H
GAIN
2 19
Cold baths I do n ot recomme n d for any woman Her
orga ni sm i s too delicate I think to successfully resist th e
shock o f a cold plu n ge or showe r but if a n y woman c an
withsta n d it it is the stout woman It has been claimed
to be a considerable aid in reduction o f flesh By that
token if by no othe r t he thin woman should avoid them
Her baths must be at least tepid I should advise them as
warm as she can com fort ably take them For while hot
baths are enervating a moderately warm bath is soothi n g to
ti r ed nerves a n d s o te n ds to those easeful habits which the
thin woman n eeds to acquire The fat woma n Should rise
immediately f rom her bath dress a n d go about her a ff airs
But it is admissible even desirable for the thi n woman to
lie d o wn for a rest o f twenty mi n utes or longer after her
bath The repose that follows a warm bath is one of the
best aids to gai n ing flesh
A Turkish bath once a week may b e take n but it should
be t aken prude n tly o r it will lessen the flesh The thin
woman should n ot remain in the hot room for more than
A fte r the scrub which follows she Should
t e n minutes
not lie in blankets as I have advised fat women to do to
p romote further perspiration Instead she Sh o ul d go to a
slightly cooler room and there take massage while her pores
a r e gaping as open hu n gry mouths to receive it Massage
with olive o il is a fattener For each bath I recommend
1
Olive oil I gill ; o il o f bergamot 2 teaspoonful
After massage with the o i l s he should rest fo r a hal f
hour before dressi n g T o remove the odo r a n d other u n
pleasant souve n irs o f the o i l rub she should powder her
body f reely with talcum before d ressing
F o r those to who m oliv e o i l is distaste ful ther e is this
massage fo r the meager body which is much used i n France
and Ge rmany " Tannin 5 6 gram ; lanolin 3 0 grams ; oil
o f sweet almon d s 1 0 grams
This which I ha v e before recommen d ed for building the
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S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
2 20
adipose tiss ues o f the n eck is excelle n t for the body e sp ec i
ally for the sunk en regio n s about the collarbones fo r the
thin layer of flesh over the ribs and for e n lar gi n g th e hip s
Co coa butter 1 00 grams ; alcohol 9 5 per ce n t 2 0 grams ;
essence o f rosemary 1 2 drops ; e s sence o f bergamot 1 2
drops
S ome skin s a re ir r itated by coco a butter F or these pu r e
f resh la r d could be substituted A recipe somewhat dif
fi c ult to fill this side o f Pa r is but which has b ee n i n v alu
able to thi n wome n w ho des ired to b e pl u mp is this for
massage c r eam
S alep o f Pe r sia 1 5 grams ; powdered cocoa 60 gram s ;
glan doux d A S i e 60 g r ams ; potato starch 4 5 gr ams ; r ice
s ta r ch 60 gr ams ; th i n gelat i n e solutio n 2 5 0 g r ams ; va n illa
ce
n
tigrams
5
An other s i mple ple asant a n d e ffi cacious massage c r eam
is made from "
O live o il 2 ou n ces ; pure starch I ounce ; la n oli n I
o u nce
XVhile I am a w are that in Am erica the r e is a prej udi ce
a gai n st p erf u mes I ca n not share i n it S ince the days o f
the early Roman s w ell ch os e n p erfumes have added ele
gance to a toilet It is o n ly th ei r abuse which is to be
deplored A dain ty wo ma n n eed n ot be told that sh e must
use the perfume spari n gly that there should b e a hi n t n ot a
bald s tatement o f them about her B ut t here is n o qu estio n
that certa i n pe r fumes have al so a tonic medici n al e fl ect
Ther e fore for the thin woman whose n erv e s r equi r e s ooth
i n g I recomm e n d this toilet water used by E n glish a n d
French wome n when t i r ed A hal f doz en drop s i n a bo wl
o f wate r is deliciously s oo thing and l eaves a plea s a n tly per
v a s i v e yet e lusive pe r fume in the room
ou
n
ces
van
il
la
water
I
ou
n
ces
asm
n
water
e
i
;
;
%
j
3
a cacia water 1 % oun ces ; t ube rose w ater
ounce ; esse n ce
o f amb e rgris 5 drop s ; tinctur e o f be n zoin V
2 dr am
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MY
2 22
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
dinner eat any food that appeals to you that is o f
sta r chy o r suga r y o r fatty n atu r e Avoid pickles o ra nges
a n d all acids
I n this diet use savi n g commo n se n se D o not eat o f
rich foods so freely that you r digestion will b e impai r ed
a n d your complexion become mottled Drive away i n s o m
nia by dri n ki n g a glass o f wa rmed milk a c up o f cocoa o r
chocolate a n d eati n g a biscui t or t w o before retiri n g
Fo r the thin woman the rule agai n st eati n g betwee n
meals applied to the fat o n e does n ot hold S he may e at
whe n ever hu n ger moves he r for hers is a normal hu n ge r
indicati n g need o f more n utrime n t
I thi n k it is not well to t r y to guide the natu ral g r owth
o f a young girl toward slende rn ess o r plump n ess
Nature
Should have its cha n ce to i n dicate rather st r ongly which
w ay it i n tends her to t r avel whether the road o f thin n ess
or
fat Whe n this ha s become appa r e n t which is not
u n til after sixteen o r eightee n it is quite time to supplement
nature
But for those readers whose g r owth will not b e inter
r up t e d by a n y radical cha n ges i n ma nn er o f livi n g I would
advise special atte n tio n t o diet Give a great deal o f i h
Keep i n mi n d
t elli g en t atte n tio n to n ou r ishi n g the body
always the class o f foods that fo r m flesh
O f the ce r eals co rn wheat a n d oats belo n g i n this class
The b r ead made f r om them has the Same p r ope r ties e sp e c i
ally i f they a r e u sed i n thei r n at u r al u n adulte r ated state
Corn bread made f r om r ough yellow meal and spread
ple n tifully with butte r is o n e of the best mea n s o f addi n g
to the weight o f the body Potatoes if used in co nn ectio n
with eggs cheese a n d milk are important aids in that d i r ec
tio n
A F r e n ch physicia n o f unusual skill prepares to fatten
his thi n patie n ts by r equi r i n g them fi r st to fast fo r a sho r t
time S ometimes h e asks that this continue fo r th r ee days
F or
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HO W TO GA I N FLE SH
223
though in my opi n ion forty eight hours are quite enough
This is to clea r the body o f all rem n ants o f former ma n ner
This is followed i n his system by an exclusive
o f diet
milk diet of th r ee more days he permitti n g the patie n t to
d r i n k as much as she likes but i n sisti n g on at least two
quarts a day d r unk very slowly ten minutes for the c o n
sumptio n of each glass almost literally eati n g rather than
d r inking it
S hou ld the appetite rebel at the milk it may b e varie d by
an o ccasional glass o f orange j uice o r o f lemon j uice and
water half a n d hal f
The thi r d step i n this rej uve n ati n g o f the body before
begin n ing to take the flesh formi n g foods is to eat nuts a n d
fruit freely for a day or t w o o r longer unless y o u r appetite
becomes too rebellious
When you have begu n with the flesh f orming foods
which I have given and which always i n clude meats con
tai n i n g conside r able fat b e ca r eful to chew them s o tho r
oughly that all tur n to liquid form i n your mouth be fore
swallowi n g
I knew a woma n o n ce extremely thi n w ho always ate a
hal f doze n dates for desse r t after a full meal To this She
ascribed her rapid gai n i n welcome flesh
Exercise ge n tly while building flesh but d o not exercise
quickly nor lo n g at a time
D r i n k ater f reely a n d during meals o n e glass Slowly
dru n k o f cold wate r will n ot i n te r fe r e with but r ather aid
i n the digestion One of the first measu res taken by thos e
—
w ho wish to reduce their flesh is the opposite
to avoid
drinki n g water at meals
Rest often S lee p as much as you can taking a nap at
midday if possible Thin perso n s are nearly all wo r rie r s
Fat pe r so n s as a rule do n ot worry
Massagi n g the body with olive o i l o r vaseli n e aids i n
flesh formation Dri n king olive o i l has the same result
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
2 24
My prescription for the increase o f flesh is twofold I
cou n sel peace o f mi n d and eati n g flesh maki n g foods
Generally speaking thin perso n s are o f nervous tempera
ment They have a positive genius fo r worry S top
worryi n g and control your nerves This can be done
th r ough the p r actice o f common se n se and the exercise o f
you r will Train yourself alon g this line and it will amaze
you to see what progress you have made in a few mo n ths
It is p o ssible not to let thi n gs a n d persons get on your
nerv es Tr y it and keep o n trying until the avoidance
becomes a habit
You will be less nervous if you take more rest S leep ;
o r if yo u ca n t sleep remain i n bed an extra hour o r two
if possible every night A n d if your circumsta n ces permit
take a nap o r a hal f hour o r mo r e o f relaxation at n oon
Rest a fter meals
Aside from this nerve co n trol a n d ba n ishment o f w o r ry
the greatest aid in fl e s h maki n g is i n the greater quantity
and di ffere n t quality o f food
S cience has lately co n tributed a valuable item to the flesh
maki n g foods The pine nut know n as pign olia is o n e o f
the foods richest in fatty matter and in fat making i ng r e d i
D r Harvey W Wiley the great food e xpert a n d
e nts
calls attention to the fact
a dvo cate o f the pure food law
that these small sleek white nuts are composed o f nearly
60 per cent o f fat and that the sugar a nd starch als o fat
maki n g i n gredie n ts i n them amount to 1 7 per cent o f thei r
composition They have heat maki n g p r ope r ties equali n g
those o f butter co n tai n i ng nearly four times as much nou r
This discovery I repeat hopi n g that
i shme n t as lean beef
those perso n s to whom the idea o f eati n g pork o r fatty beef
will be obnoxious will fi n d a n excelle n t substitute i n this
Butte r is a fatte n ing agent S pread bread thickly with
this and e at f oods cooked in it i f you would g r ow flesh
But because butter and cod liv er oi l are believed to i n ter
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MY
226
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
themselves int o the belie f that it is impossible to gain w eight
A n emine n t physician tells me he has know n people o f
middle age w ho have never varie d more tha n a fe w pou n ds
in weight for twenty years to add thi r ty fi v e pounds i n one
su mmer But this w a s accomplished not by a n y haphaza r d
luck but by a most careful persistent and i n telligent system
o f nourishment
Most people a re accustome d t o eat about the same aver
age amou n t o f food every day a n d they are guided in the
amount they eat by their appetite The result is that with
about the same daily habits o f life and about the same daily
appetite a n d with about the same c o n sumpti o n o f nourish
me n t day after day the bodily weight continues at a fixed
amou n t I f o n e is worki n g extra hard the appetite may
be a little st r o n ger and the additional weight which might
be gai n ed is co n sumed by the extra labor which is bei n g pe r
formed Duri n g a summer vacation it ofte n happens that
there is a gain o f weight o f five o r eight or pe r haps te n
pounds but this is lost again as soon as the old habits o f
life are resumed a fter the vacation is over
In fo rmulating a system fo r i n creasi n g weight it is n ec e s
sary to co n side r all o f the ma ny factors which may be made
to co n tribute to t he g ai n O f cou r se it must be unde r stood
at the very outstart that it i s n ecessa r y to i n crease the
amount o f food w e are eati n g if we are to increase weight
It is not di fficult to understa n d that a person s w eight which
is maintained at an even level year after year o n a give n
qua n tity o f food is not likely to increas e u n less the quantity
But it does
o f food o r the quality o f the food is i n creased
not necessarily f ollow that weight will i n crease Simply by
increasi n g the amount o f food consumed Ma n y other
facto r s e n ter i n to the problem
It is p robably almost u n iversally tru e that w e eat ma n y
things every day which are o f little o r no value Our
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How
T O GAI N FLE S H
227
stomachs are o fte n filled with more o r less worthless food
i n stead o f thi n gs o f great food value
The m o st impo r ta n t si n gle facto r i n gai n i n g weight is the
kind o f n ourishment that is taken
B read meat cereals thin soups desserts cracke r s pastry
a n d most vegetables are o f v ery little value in inc r easing
weight
Thick pea o r bean soup baked beans B oston b rown bread
rice Welsh rarebit cheese raw eggs chocolate milk and
c r eam a r e the great producers o f weight
It is o f course ge n erally well k n ow n that rapid and co n
s i d e r ab le gai n s i n weight may be made by d r i n ki n g la r ge
quantities o f milk The flesh gained by ab n ormal c o n su mp
tion o f milk is likely to disappear as rapidly as it w as ac
quired a n d it is the o pinio n o f many o f the best physicia n s
that too much milk puts a dangerous strai n u pon the kid
neys
Flesh gained through a milk diet is o f doubtful value but
flesh gai n ed by eating the highly nou r ishi n g foods I have
recomme n ded i s o f perma n e n t value
I f a person is eating all his appetite demands it may b e
asked ho w any one is to eat a n y more O n e w ay o f c reating
a larger appetite is to move y our meals fu r ther apart
I f fo r any reason you are not able to get di nn er until an
hour o r more afte r your u sual di n ner time you feel a con
s i d e r ab ly kee n e r a ppetite and eat co n siderably more
If
you will apply this to all the hour s for your meals you will
fi n d th at you are eati n g a co n siderably larger bulk o f foo d
each day Get up e arlie r i n the mor n ing a n d have a lo n ger
i n terval between you r breakfast and midday meal a n d you
will eat p r obably te n o r fiftee n per cent more at noo n Put
o ff your eve n i n g meal an hour late r if possible a n d you will
fi n d that you eat a considerably heav ie r eve n ing meal than
you had been eati n g
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MY
228
S ECRET S OF
B EAU T Y
The older you grow the slower are your digestive proc
esses It takes fully an hour lo n ger for a person o f forty
five to digest the same meal eaten by a person o f twenty
Everybody knows how pate de foie gras which is the fat
and diseased liver o f a goose is produced In S trasburg
where most o f the pate de foie gras comes from the u n
fortunate goose is taken into a dark cellar and o n e foot is
n ailed to the floor
The goose is then fed all he will eat
a n d when he has finished his meal more f ood is poked down
hi s throat with a stick
The goose is i n this way stu ffed
with food d ay after day and i s not allowed to have fresh air
o r exercise The result is that his liver becomes degenerate
fat and enlarged ; and this is the way pate d e foie gras is
p roduced
The same s o rt o f thing works i n the same w ay with the
h uman a n atomy and if you are t o stu ff you r sel f with extra
food a n d acquire perma n ent and v aluable flesh you must
thoroughly oxyge n ate your blood by fresh air and a reaso n
able amount o f moderate exercise S leep with you r win
dow open at night a n d take a walk morni n g a n d eveni n g
D o not run hurry or take violent exercise o f a n y kin d
The chief factor in gai n i n g weight is to come to your
meals with more appetite than eve r be fo re an d eat mo r e
than ever before Eat things of the highest nutritive v alue
I f you are begi nn ing your dinner with thick rich pea soup
try to eat two or even three helpings o f it Whatever else
you eat help you rsel f to double the usual amount and t r y to
eat it all And when you are all through a n d thi n k you ca n
not eat a n y more then eat a liberal helpi n g o f cheese and
a fte r that dri n k a glass o r t w o of milk
I f such a meal t axes your digestio n you may need he lp
The chie f digestive agent o f the stomach is hyd r ochloric
acid a n d you may add power t o your digestive machi n ery
by taki n g a little You may at the same time stimulate the
other ga stric secretions with a little nux v omica Here is a
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CHAPTER XVII
E X E R CI S E S TH A T H E LP
M
A " E YO U
BE
AU T I F U L
H ERE are exercises that reconstruct build over a n d
there are exercises that dest r oy chiefly by excess I
am goi n g to tell you o f the first sort The seco n d may b e
dismissed as violent exercises Violence is always a de
stroye r o f beauty Excessive e xercise with heavy dumb
bells whose W eight exceed s the stre n gth of the perso n
wielding them I mention as o n e o f the worst o f these de
stroyers
I have be fore said and I am glad to hav e an opportunity
to repeat that I disapprove o f heavy exercise for wom en
Extreme physical e ffort taxes the st r e ngth and leaves its
marks upo n the c o u n tenance writi n g the heavy disfiguring
characters o f fati gue It overdevelops the muscles robbi n g
the figure of its soft delicate outline maki n g it bumpy u n
seemly a n d masculi n e
Exercise for women Should have three aims First s e
cu r i n g as much f r esh air as is n eeded for health S eco n d
as much motion and adj ustme n t o f the i n ternal o rga n s as
are needed for health Third fo r the correction o f such
habits as are threate n i n g t o the health a n d disfiguri n g to the
beauty A good eclectic system o f exercises serves all these
pu r poses
A simple exe r cise that I have long used whe n I noticed
a tende n cy o f the shoulders to s ag forward is to place my
a rms behi n d me bend them at the elbows a n d thrust b e
tween the back and the elbows my brother s ca n e When
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23 0
E XERCI
S E S THAT MAKE YOU B EAUTIFUL
23 1
he rebelled o r when he a n d his precious ca n e were absent
I used my o w n u mbrella o r su n shade The temporary s u p
po r t drew the shoulders fa r back a n d expa n ded the lungs
I n this
s o greatly that it became my favorit e exercise
attitude I walk about the room many times o r sta n di n g
before the open wi n dow tightly close my lips and b reathe
deeply This I continue fo r fifteen minutes u n less my
arms grow very weary in which cas e I cease for the time
begi n ni n g agai n i n a few mi n utes when I have rested In
all exercises I stop short o f the point o f fatigue
F o r a sagging abdome n slow regular be n ding exercises
are best S tand with the arms raise d above the head a n d
the palms fo rwa rd Keep the elbows straight With a
slow s weepi n g motion bend forward until the tips o f the
fi n gers reach the floor i n front o f you This is di fficult
especially for the stout and those with muscles sti ffened
from lack of use
When you have mastered this exercise by practise thrust
the hands clasped at the fi n ge r poi n ts as far back between
the k n ees as you c an I n this way a semicircle is de
scribed at one sweepi n g motio n and the abdominal muscles
are strengthe n ed at the same time and the abdominal organs
stim ulated
For i n active heavy back muscles the rotary tru n k motion
is best Be n d the body forward from the waist li n e a n d
swing the upper part o f the bo dy slowly around as though
the waist were a pivot Move the trunk slowly to the right
as far as it will go then to the left as far as possible S way
slowly from the extreme right to left and back again bei n g
care ful not to wre n ch the body These last two exercise s
are i n valuable fo r setting sluggi sh i n testines at work
Hund r eds o f que r ies are se n t me putting i n va r ious ways
the o ne esse n tial questio n
What Shall I do for a muddy
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complexio n
Let me a n swer all those questio n s now and
b riefly S et your sluggish liver to wo r k The exercises I
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MY
232
S ECRET S O F BE AU T Y
have j ust described wil l aid in that mos t necessary work
S o will walks long enough for sufficient exercise y et not
long enough to exhaust yo u
I f all these togethe r with much water drinking fail to
correct the liver marked complexion this will be assuredly
help ful " S tanding perfectly erect raise the right arm as
high as you c an stretchi n g the left arm d ownward at the
s ame time Re v erse this motio n and alternate the two
This air sawi n g done rapidly will bestir the laziest liver
F o r chronic indigestion I recommend walking varied by
r op e j umping
After a brisk wal k r eturn to your room
and resti n g briefly j ump the rop e from twenty t o fifty
Your strength must determine the number It is
t imes
better to begin with ten times a nd increase the n umber to
fi fty o r even seventy fiv e as you bec o me accus tomed to the
u nusual exercis e
A favorite exercise o f mine i s the simple easy one o f
sitting straight S itting straight develops the habit o f poise
I si t every day befor e a mirror and at sufficient distanc e
from it s o tha t I can see my reflection at full length I note
whether my chest is high o r drooping I f high I know
that my figure is at normal I f drooping I at once seek
the cane or umbrella o f which I have spoken and take t he
and
s houlder and chest raising exercis e I fi rst described
”
which I c all my uplifti n g exercise
This I vary by claspi n g my hands behind an d letting the
head rest in them as a c up while I inhale and exhale pro
fou n d ly movi n g the head slowly in i ts socket o f claspe d
h ands from one side to the other
S winging about on my revolving dressing stool I note
c lo sely and critically my p rofile from brow to to e I f my
chin tends to sag seems by the slightest tendency to sag I
lift it as high as I ca n and closi n g my teeth tightly dra w
the backs o f my ha n ds alternately ac r oss it I repeat this
e xercise fifty times unti l the chin tingles and I know t h at
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
2 34
For clearing clogged lungs this also deriv ed from India
is useful " Inhale naturally and deeply but expel the air
slowly and thoroughly from betwee n the lips letti n g it
escape with a whistling sound Remembe r howeve r to i h
hale th r ough the nost r ils alo n e expelling o n ly with the lips
fo r while ge r ms can n ot be drawn into the system through
the nostrils the fi n e hairs which line the nose being natu r e s
sieve they swa r m from without into the o pe n mouth at the
slightest cha n ce That cha n ce is a fforded by the intake o f
air This outrush o f course bars their e n tra n ce
It is really o n e of the simplest things in the world to hav e
healthy lu n gs S it erect stand erect wal k erect A n d if
you go th r ough life sitti n g correctly sta n di n g co r rectly a n d
walki n g correctly you will b r eathe co r rectly a n d breathi n g
co rr ectly you will have healthy lu n gs
A n d in o r der to have a good pair o f lu n gs a wo rki n g
machi n e that will se r ve you well all your life begi n at
the you nger you a r e o f course the better
to build
o n ce
up the muscles between the shoulde r blades the muscles
at the top o f the Shoulders and the muscles at the back o f
the n eck
—
f
F r esh air you must have o course
ple n ty o f it But
o f what avail the purest oxyge n i f the r e a r e districts i n that
wo n de r ful regio n i n side you r ribs where a b reath o f f r esh
ai r c an n eve r reach A n d those a r e the very spots where
pulmo n a r y germs like Jeshuru n i n the Bible w ax fat a n d
kick When o n e has little plague spo ts like these i n side of
his a n atomy fresh ai r an d exe rcise the usual p r escriptio n s
fo r Sick lu n gs a r e o f no g r eat value u n less e r ect Sitti n g
sta n di n g a n d walki n g are systematic a n d co n ti n uous habits
The n o n ly are fresh air a n d d r y su n shi n e o f avail to a ff ect
radically the germs of tube r culosis
Begin r ight o ff n ow S traighten u p
hethe r you have
well lu n gs o r sick lu ngs sta r t exercisi n g The results o b
tai n e d by even the simplest gy mnastics are o fte n magical
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EXERCI
S E S THAT MAKE
Y O U B EAUTIFUL
235
o n ly as a gain in health but as a disti n ct asset o f physi
One of your shoulders may hang a little l owe r
c a l beauty
than the ot her ; that will work much harm to a depressed
lu n g Look to it always that your shoulders are well up in
the air and well back Lif t up and th row back you r shoul
ders so that you r shoulder blades will lie flat o n the back
of your ribs with the tops o f the shoulders themselves
poi n ti n g directly upward Make this a habit
I mysel f exercis e but little The reaso n is appa r e n t I
am o f slight physique requiri n g rathe r a foste r i n g o f the
vital spark than a lavish expenditure of it in the direction
o f muscle making
Light gym n astics after the bath in the morni n g a n d a
d r ive i n the a fternoo n quite su ffice fo r me S i n ce I n ever
grow fat there is no need o f trai n i n g down There fore the
exercise I take is quite e n ough for my needs
But for American women with their te n de n cy to grow
fat this I k n ow is not e n ough While I believe there
should be o n ly enough exercise to properly to n e the body
yet some require much more fo r this purpose tha n others
a n d there i s not e n ough to n ing whe n the body g r ows fat
There i s no on e form o f exercise s o generally tonic t o
the system I thi n k as walki n g I f a woman b e o f the
bilious temperame n t with an i n clination to grow sallo w
and heavy eyed she needs lo nger walks than the woma n o f
sa n guine temperame n t whose blood leaps through her vei n s
and seems to seek escape by w ay o f the mounting blus h es
i n he r cheeks
A woman w ho needs walking and she and her physician
Should be the best j udges o f whether she does may beg i n
by walki n g five city blocks and e n d by walki n g five or six
miles S he should i n crease the distance g r adually fo r o n e
lo n g walk may be o f b r ie f be n efit but regular long walks
a r e o f inestimable value It is never well to begi n suddenly
viole n t u n accustomed exercise
no t
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236
S ECRET S
MY
0F
B EA U TY
The chief value o f walki n g is that it forces deep breath
ing and deep breathi n g causes a clea n si n g o f the intestines
as when a blast of cold air is introduced i n to a furnace it
burns up all the refuse that while the fire w as low clu n g to
the sides a n d back o f the grate Here is a fact that should
be kept h anging o n a p romine n t peg in the memory In
ordinary instances when a pe rson rests he breathes four
hundred a n d eighty cubic i n ches o f air a minute This is
much less than i s neede d fo r clea n si n g the body That is
the reason why I oppose t o o much sleep Duri n g the sleep
ing hours the amount of air w e breathe is much reduced
That is the reason w hy many perso n s look at their worst
when they rise in the morning Lack o f the amou n t o f
oxygen they take i n to the body when they are movi ng
about leaves their cheeks pale their muscles saggi n g a n d
their eyes dim Note how much handsomer you are a n
hour afterward than immediatel y upon rising
On the other hand while walking at the rate o f four miles
an hour which is not the maximum rate you will i n hale
five times as much air tha t is
cubic i n ches i n the
same time Have you a room or suite o f rooms contai n i n g
fou r windows " Have yo u opened one and finding that the
air w as not being f reshe n ed fast e nough have you opened
the other three a n d noticed the instant improveme n t " That
then must be the best argument fo r walking as against d r i v
ing
I f you form the daily walk habit see that it becomes a
daily habit Don t stay indoors because it is too hot o r
be c ause it is raining O n e should n ot take her daily walk
in midsummer while the s u n is highest Rise earlier a n d
take the walk in the dewy pa r t o f the day before break
fast
I f it is raining dress for the walk in the coquettish little
rubber boo t s that are no w fashionable a n d the short serge
and the little Tam o S han te r o r
o r flann el walking skirt
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MY
238
S ECRET S
BEAUTY
OF
not pe rmitted to form if there is a tho rough elimination by
mea n s o f walking a n d much water d r i n ki n g
I n digestion i n its various fo r ms c an be corrected e sp ec i
ally i n the earlier stages by walki n g in co nn ectio n with
ca r e ful diet I n digestion is a physical faili ng especially
peculiar to women Walking by bringi n g i n to pla y unused
muscles a n d by maki ng deep b r eathi ng n e ces sa ry as a walk
always does relieves this co n dition Whateve r clears the
i n te r nal o rga n s clears the c o mplexion Whatever n aturally
clears the intern al o rgans brightens the eyes Whateve r
promotes deep breathing lays in a new stock o f vigor as w e
fill o u r cella r s with coal in the wi n ter
Ridi n g is good exe r cise for women if not take n i n excess
Its drawbac k i s that the side saddle forces o n e hip a n d
shoulder higher than the other I f a woma n rides She
should by all mea n s ride astride s o obviati n g this d iffi
culty
While I take my o w n mor n i n g exe r cise after the bath
with no aid whatever dumbbells are valuable to those w ho
”
can n ot become i n terested i n freeha n d exe r cise
I should
advise begi nn i n g with the smallest dumbbells made those
weighi ng o n e to hal f a pou n d
Wrapped in a lightweight woolen bathrobe a n d weari n g
tights o r k n icke rbockers hose a n d sa n dals o r slippe r s let
her sta n d befo r e the open wi n dow while s h e ma n ipulates
the dumbbells With Shoulde r s back a n d chest throw n o u t
a n d head e r ect let her curl the dumbbells twe n ty times
meanwhile b reathi n g slowly and deeply i n time with the
exe r cise
S tart with the dumbbells at the shoulders and push them
high ove r the head counting a n d b r eathing deeply twe n ty
times
Rest for five mi n utes the dumb b ells sta n di n g o n the floo r
in f r o n t o f you B ending you r k n ees ve ry little but keep
ing you r arms straight rise to an erect position with the
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MY
24 0
S E C RET S O F B EAUTY
unbent above the head stretch the body to the greatest p os
sible height
Another to gi v e suppleness to the body is to rise o n the
tiptoes then lowe r the body until the weight rests upon
the soles then up and down again fi fty times I have
k n own persons s o in fatuated with this exercise that they
repeated it two hundred and eve n five hundred times a day
One warni n g " Neve r carry exercise beyo nd the poi n t
Never let it reach the point o f ex hau s
o f slight fatigue
tion for exhaustion like ill n ess is a sy n o n ym for ugliness
Women fa n cy that a weak back is the heritage o f their
They fancy that aches an d pains in that region are
s ex
i n evitable In this they a re mistaken The back may be
rebuilded and strengthe n ed as can other weak spots Dis
c r eet exercises a r e the best aid in that desirable direction
F o r children w ho are growi n g round shouldered shoulder
braces a re f or a time beneficial for they train the muscles
to erect n ess When this training has been accomplished
the b races should be removed and the child required to p rac
tice the carriage the brace has taught him But for a
grow n perso n I neve r advise braces except as a last resort i n
a desperate case and particularly in cases o f lung a ff ec
tio n s to require the person to i n hale fresh air
We ofte n receive the advice Rest your back to stop its
”
aching
This is sound advice i n cases of ext r eme fatigue
but generally the best way t o rest the back is to strengthe n
it and the way to st r engthen it is by well directed but n ot
violent exercises
Every muscle in the body is ther e fo r some use Every
The
o n e should have e n ough exe rcise t o keep it healthy
muscles o f the back a r e weak because they are so seldom
used
The best exercises for development of these neglected
muscles are those which involve stooping S poiled pam
pered beauties test themsel v es by stooping and if they can
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E XER C I
S E S THAT MAKE Y O U
B EAUTIFU L
24 1
touch the floor with t h eir fi nge r tips without ben d ing the
knees they pronounce themselves fit Women less spoiled
and pampered have far less anxiety about keeping fit
Their everyday work requires enough stooping to keep the
muscles o f the back flexible and the muscles o f the abdomen
fi rm and o f normal size
Lifting moderate weights from the floor is a good ex e r
cise for strengthening the back I f the back be very weak
it is well to begi n with an empty bucket AS exercises
strengthen it gradually fill the pail A basket with a handle
may se r ve the same purpose S to op slowl y and slowly lift
the weight Keep the leg muscles tens e and make the mus
cles o f the arms tense Reach sl o wl y fo rward and lift the
weight with both hands Lift it on a level with the waist
line Then lower it as slowly to the floo r
Next to stooping twisting the muscles o f the back is a
good exercise for strengthening it B ut let this twisting be
slowly and gently do n e o r this will b e one of the instances
in which the remedy is worse than the disease Violent
exercise will only make the muscles weaker a n d cause a
more severe ache and possibly a severe i n j ury by w rench
ing them
This is the best method for the twisting L i ft the arms
slowly above the head with the elbows unbent Then
slowly turn the body to the right resting its weight on the
left leg S wing the body aroun d keeping the a rms above
the head but shifting the weight to the right leg This is
a most valuable exercise for it contorts the muscle s causes
a supply of blood to flow through them and by the unusual
action they gai n strength
The same exercise as the fo regoing can be a d vantageously
done with the arms stretch e d out horizontally be fore you
and swinging them in a larg e half circle being ca r eful to
shift the weight from one leg to the other and keeping tense
the musc l es of the legs on w h ic h the weigh t rests
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MY
24 2
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
As a r ule round shoulders are the Sign o f weakened mu s
cles O r the appearance o f r ou n d Shoulde r s may be given
by a too great accumulatio n o f fat across the shoulders
A good exercise to correct this is a simple squari n g o f the
shoulders drawing in at the same t i me lu ngs full o f air
Push back your a rms so that the forearms are on a level
with the waist an d the elbows are pushed as far back as
possible By a gentle sawi n g motion move the elbows for
ward a n d back This causes a rush o f blood to the mus
cles surrou n ding the shoulders a n d nourishes the muscles
which you a r e exercising a n d banishes the fat cells
To ba n ish fat from the back draw th e arms back as I
have described Th rust between the back a n d elbows a
stout cane o r a broomstick Ma n ipulate the ca n e by means
of the elbows so that the muscles are not o n ly stre n gthe n e d
but the ca n e is rolled over the flesh The e ffect is to break
the fat cells
This i s sometimes more easily do n e i f you hold the cane
in a diagonal position
Useful t o the same end is the exercise o f sitting erect in
a chair and exagge r atedly shruggi n g the shoulders first on e
the n the other then both toge ther
Wo r k w ith light dumbbells will also in time reduce the
fat o f the back but I cou n sel the u s e o f light clubs and
these i n moderation S ta n di ng erect the feet resting flatly
raise the dumbbells
o n the floo r and the knees unbending
s lowly above the head without be n di n g the elbows
As
slowly lower them until the arms ha n g loosely at the sides
I f you notice that o n e shoulder is higher than the other
give heed to your hips The hip o n t he other side is prob
ably thrust u p a n d the shoulder o n that side sinks the
shoulde r o n the opposite side r ising to bala n ce it S o i f o n e
shoulde r is high correct your way of standi n g S tand with
the weight eve n ly divided a n d rest o n the balls of your feet
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S ECRET S
MY
2 44
0F
BEAUTY
the floor will keep the hip s and abdomen in control and in
time diminish their size
For this reason i f not fo r that o f neatness never lose an
opportunity i f you r fi gure has the defect I mention to stoop
to pick u p a bit o f paper o r li n t o r a scrap o f cloth from the
floor
S t 00 p from the waist D o n t resort to that trick o f the
i n dolent o r the awkward falling upon the k n ees when you
pick up anything S tooping I S a graceful posture L earn
it
I f the defect in your fi gure is the other sort the broom
stick is still your friend But use it i n a di ffere n t way I f
you have a weak narrow chest i f you a re rou nd shouldered
you should apply yoursel f t o development in a di ffe r ent di
rection and your sweeping shoul d not be the main obj ect
but an incident o f your b room handle exercis e And if you
are o f this habit b e sure to protect your not robust lungs
from the dust raised to s o me exte n t by sweepi n g even
though the br oom be swathed in a damp cloth by keeping
your lips firmly closed Dust is nearly always disease laden
While the d ry disease germs might co n ti n ue their way
through the air without causing breedi n g o f disease the
dark n ess and moisture and the weakness o f your lu n gs to
which they find their way through the open m outh will stir
them into new life a n d you will be the victim Never i n
any ci r cumstances i n hale through the mouth Occasion
ally to r i d the body o f a n exc ess o f carbo n ic acid gas you
may safely exhale through the m o uth to still furthe r pu r ify
the body Never never take in air through the mouth
Don t allow the nose to become lazy To i n hale air is its
duty Force it to pe r form it And aid it b y keeping the
nostrils free from cloggi n g substances
The broom stick will se rv e its best purpo se fo r yo u by b e
ing Shorte n ed cut to a length o f two o r t w o and a half feet
according to the reach o f your arms Grasping the stick
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E XERCI S E S
YO U BEAUTI F U L
THAT MAKE
245
fi rm ly wit h a han d at either end hold it h igh ab o v e the h ead
an d draw t h e air in d eeply filling the lungs to their capac
ity with full draughts of air When you h a v e fi lled every
cell o f the lungs with the fresh air hold the stick firmly
above the head count silently at least fi ve This done
d rop your arms slowly y o ur hands still clenching the stick
in front o f you below the waist Wh ile doing this expel
the air gently until you feel that the lungs are almos t empty
o f air
It is not enough to say to most persons "
S hallow
”
breathing is a bad habit Correct it
The active human
mind is an interrogation point and deman d s the courtesy and
satisfaction o f an answer
Well then the results o f shallow breathing are these
S ensitiveness to all the conditions that cause colds and a
disposition to allow colds to deepen into consumption o r
widen int o pneumonia S hallow breathing makes the liv e r
l azy and soon the body is bile flooded the eyes becomi n g
dull and the complexion yellow an d lifeless Clogged
stomach and intestine s are the marks o f the shallow
breather for the body e n gi n e has not enough oxygen
d raught to burn up the fuel that has been thrown into i t
as food
It is o nly the deep breather who enj oys life to its full
an d shows her enj oyment o f it
I f you are not already an out o f d oor woman become one
at the earliest opportunity Make a b usiness o f l earning at
least one of the outdoor sports
S hall it be gol f " Then yo u will h av e ch osen well for
gol f develops the muscles whic h are not strong in women
those o f the back By encouraging d eep breathing it de
v elo p s her chest
B y causi n g her to bend consi d erably
from the waist it stre ngthens her abdominal muscles B e
cause i t causes he r to walk a great deal it strengthens weak
ankles and d evelops th e muscles o f the l ow e r leg These
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246
MY
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUTY
points remembered an d p racticed will make you a better
gol f player and will develop your health a n d stre ngt h in a
correspondi n g ratio S elect you r clubs with careful view
to their length a n d this will depend upon your o w n height
and the length o f your a rms To choose a club that is too
long is as foolish and inj urious as it is if you are short to
s i t upo n a chair so high that your feet dangle
Learn a good position for your strokes with wooden
clubs at the very begi nn i n g You should be erect O n e
leg should be straight u n der the body Its heel sh o uld be
o n the ground
the toe a little poi n ted in S lightly below
the hips a n d n o t more than fou r inches from the body
should be the level o f the grip
Because freedom o f the wrists is so v e ry important better
practice when not o n t he li n ks with a ca n e o r closed u m
brella Place the hands together and hold them quite still
in front o f the hips dependi n g for the motion of the stick
enti r ely upo n the wrists Remember that the gol f stic k
swi n gs on a pivot formed by the hands a n d w rists
One o f the benefits o f gol f playi n g t o a woman is that it
teaches c o ncent r ation The eye must be kept upon the ball
no t before it is struck o r while it is leaving th e sward b u t
a fter it ha s le ft the ground
I f you take up lawn ten n is play in mo d eration e specially
at the begi nn i n g I like ten n is for women because it i n
duces a fi n e flow o f p erspi r atio n that will ca r ry the clogging
po isons o u t o f the system It stimulates the circulation
and forces deep b reathi n g It has the fu r ther value of dis
tributi ng the exercise rather ge n erally througho ut the mus
cles o f the body Many women play te nn is but few play it
well A reason is that they are careless in learni n g t he
first principles o f the game They are liable t o grasp the
racket loosely a n d this spo ils thei r play Relax your grasp
an d the racket will tu r n i n the h and while y ou make y our
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CHA P TER XVII I
TH E D R E AD
P O S T P ON I N G
S I GN S
OF
O LD A G E
VERY woman is haunte d by a specter the drea d ghost
o f o ld age
At sixteen girls begin to dread it At
—
thirty si x women s et traps fo r it At sixty they ward it
o ff as best they may
I will tell you to day what are the
marks o f old age a n d how to remove them
Women search their faces in the mirror fo r the first faint
lines that they fear may develop i n to wri n kles The i m
portance o f these lines they greatly exaggerate For ex
ample there ar e even o n a baby s neck two parallel li n es
”
known to experts as lines o f beauty
Others have nam ed
”
them the collar o f Venu s
Women foolishly t ry to r e
m ove them while the truth is that i f a woma n does not
have them she lacks a rec ognized Sign o f be auty a n d writes
herself down to all beholders as s o fat that her flesh has
swallowed up he r Venus s collar
The in fallible first Sign o f age is the saggi ng cheek mus
cles These are more serious and m ore di fficult to treat
than wrinkles When at the merciless inspection o f her
face which every wise woman gives hersel f in the morni ng
a woman detects signs o f these saggi n g muscles she must
at once get to work upon them The sagging muscles i h
d i c at e that they have grown too weak to remain in place
and they must be assiste d strengthened T he way to
s t r e ngthe n t he m is to cause freer circulation in those parts
that are a ff ected And the w ay to stimulate circulation is
to massage the surfaces where circulation is d esired
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24 8
TH E DREAD
S IG NS
O F O LD
AGE
2 49
must be ve ry care ful about the massage B ad
that is unintelligent massage is worse than no n e
S tudy the drooping cheek muscles and you will notice
that they are apt to sag from the cheek o v e r the edge o f
the lower j awbo n e and try to melt in an ungraceful way
i n to the neck This is not to be pe r mitted The j awbo n e
should keep its thin fi n e edge to the e n d o f life The nearer
it is like a razor edge in sharpness the nearer yo u are
S ome babes are born
t o keeping the facial line o f youth
moon face d and moon faced remain B ut it is true never
t hele s s in the large maj ority o f cases that if the lower
edge o f the j aw is o f knife like sharp n ess the woman w ho
possesses it is young I f it b e mu ffled by flesh the woman
is ol d or is growing ol d
S ince the flesh is incline d to melt down into the chin so
forming the double o r triple chin it i s necessary to massage
that s u rplus flesh S trengthen the muscles o f the true o r
no r mal chin thus "
With a pure massage cream give o ne stroke to the mus
cles o f the chin with the right ha n d then with the left and
P ass the ha n ds f r om side to side o ne under
so alternate
the other When you have made twenty such strokes g i ve
your atte n ti o n to the cheek muscles proper With the tips
o f the first second an d third fingers rub slowly and gently
with a rotary motion upward a n d backward along the li n e
o f the j aw and upward to the hair line
Repeat this ope r a
tion agai n and again u n til the cheek muscles and the fingers
are weary When they have rested begin again this time
with the so fter flesh above the j aw Use the first three
fi n ge r s again a n d let the motion be backward and upwa r d
again but the pressu re should be much lighter for these
tn u scle s ha v e not the bony support o f the lower ones and
it is always hazardous to wo r k other than skillfully o n such
muscles Fo r instance the flesh j ust beneath the eye should
ne v er be touch e d
B ut
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S ECRET S
MY
250
BEAUTY
0F
Twice a day is o ft en en ough for o r din ary cas es But i n
ext reme ca s es ten min utes fo r mas s age fou r t i mes a day is
n ot t oo o ften
Also let the w oman whose cheek muscles are b egi nn i n g
to sag a n d w ho by the s am e token is acquiri ng a doubl e
chi n remembe r to keep up her hea d O r di n a ri ly a woma n
may tu rn to the flower fo r lesso n s i n bea uty I n thi s i n
stance sh e must loo k to the ho r se H ow much handsomer
is the ho r s e that ca rri es his h ead high a n d how much
younger he looks "
Keep you r hea d up w hi le you are walki n g whil e you are
ta lki n g even wh i le you are resti ng Did you ever s e e a
b eauty eve n when i n re p os e allow her chin to s in k u p o n
"
h en
her breast
N ot while she is co n sci ous No no
S he is e xhausted from a lo ng wa lk o r a d ance s h e res ts th e
back of her hea d aga inst the back o f a lo u ngi ng chair but
her chi n i s always up always A n d th is not o nl y wh i le
s h e is awak e
but whil e s h e is asleep D o n ot sleep u p on
a p i llow if you can p ossibly r est without i t O r i f you
must have a pillow let it b e ve ry small A n d try to li e o n
you r back with you r chin up That is th e best positi on fo r
he al th an d beauty
An d no w a b out an other parti c ular sign post o f age
Th e r e is a s ayi n g which p e r so ns always accom p an y by po int
i ng to th e de licate lin es i n fro n t of a n d ex t en di ng belo w th e
lowe r po r ti o n of a woman s ear
That is whe r e a woma n
”
fi r st shows her age
I n part that is true There is o n e
exte n uati n g fact S ome ea r s ar e s et much closer to the
head th an o thers Those that are s et well ba ck an d i n d r a w
the ski n with a d rum like tightnes s at the b as e o f the ea r
Li nes never fo rm about ca r s so s et B ut if they gr ow well
away from the hea d th e ski n abo ut the ea r i s loo se a n d
the lin es are su r e to come be t w een thirty an d forty I have
see n them come abo ut th e ea rs of gi rls o f n in et een They
U s e the t hi r d fi nger o f
t oo ca n be rem ov ed by mas sa ge
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MY
252
S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
Sign o f age is a draggi n g gait The woman w ho wants
to remain young should repair the waste by more rest
When s he is in the p rivacy o f her room she can completely
relax B ut for her in public there Should be no relaxation
Let her remember the tendency to this dragging and in
public be a s truly o n parade as a soldier at guard drill
Also in the older woman w e note bent shoulders They
should be straightened B est o f all by massage A long
full stroke over the shoulders with the palms o f the h ands
meeti n g at a point between the shoulder blades I f mas
sage did not cure I shoul d try the shoul d er and back braces
sol d at pha rmacists
But massage with pure cold cream tested and a n alyzed
by a chemist is the best frie n d o f the olde r as well as the
younger woman w ho wishes t o be b eautiful This is excel
lent fo r o ily ski n s
O ne ounce tinctu re of benzoi n ; two drams ti n cture o f
mu sk ; four drams tincture o f ambergris ; five ou n ces r ecti
fi e d spirits ; o n e an d o n e hal f pints ora n ge flower water
This I recommend especially for delicate ski n s easily
roughene d by the wind "
Three ounces almond o il ; five d rams white w ax ; five
dr ams o f spe rmaceti ; o n e dram o i l o f bitter almonds ; three
ounces elder flower water ; o ne ounce witch hazel
This a simpler cream is wholesome a n d efficacious
Four ounces a lmond oil ; four ounces rosewater ; o ne
ounc e spermaceti o ne ounce white wax
This is an excellent preparation also f or an oily skin
S ix o unces or ange flower water triple extract ; one ounce
d eo do ri z ed alcohol ; o ne ounce blanched bitter almonds ; one
dram white w ax ; o n e d r am spermaceti ; one dram o i l o f
benne ; twelve drops oil of be rgamot ; s i x drops o i l o f cloves ;
o n e quarter ounce borax
s i x drops o i l o f bigarade
This is an excellent massage c r eam havi n g cleansing
p roperties
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THE DREAD
S IG NS
O F O LD A GE
25 3
Three ounces oil o f sweet almo n ds ; two drams balsam o f
tolu ; ten drams o i l o f bitte r almonds ; two drams benzoin ;
two drops essence o f lemon ; two drops esse n ce o f caj eput
An exquisite cream much used by those who are fastidi
o u s is this
Four ounces o il o f sweet almon d s ; s i x drams white wax
Six drams spe rmaceti two drams borax ; one ounce glyc e r
i n e ; five drops oil o f neroli ; fi fteen d r ops oil o f bigarade
i
l
f
extracted
from
orange
skin
fifteen
drops
petit
o
o
;
(
)
g r ain
S ome women o f the old school prefer a liquid prepara
tion to a cream O n e o f these w as the beautiful Q ueen
Elizabeth o f Hu n gary Her complexio n w a s o n ce the toast
o f Europe and this when sh e had reached a ve r y adva n ced
age I have used this modification o f he r favorite lotion
for the face
One half ou n ce oil o f rosemary ; t w o d r ams o i l o f laven
der ; thirty g r ai n s o il o f petit grai n ; three d r ams tincture
o f tolu ; o n e—
hal f pi n t ora n ge flower water ; five ounces
rectified spi r its
Let us co n sider first the cause o f wrinkles The causes
rather should I s ay for the sources o f wrinkles are five
They are " Age worry wea r iness the bad habit o f mak
ing faces a n d the shrinking o f the flesh away from the skin
We cannot arrest age the process of growing old but we
can conceal fo r a long time the fa ct of age I believe it is
quite possible for a woman to s ay
From this moment I
”
shall not appear to grow older and to achieve that end
I have known women who have seemed to stop short the
revolutio n s in the wheels o f time fo r twenty years Others
I have k n own who by a new regimen or by cha ngi n g their
mental attitude toward life accustomi n g themselves to that
most wonderful o f all rej uvenators taking a mo re cheerful
view have seemed to grow five o r ten years you n ger
Age is not an inevitable creator o f wrinkles It merely
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S ECRET S
MY
2 54
OF
B EAUTY
deepens the tracks made by o u r thoughts wearing them
deeper and deeper with the years as the wheels o f a wago n
cut deeper and deeper into the clay o f a count ry road It
is to be seen then that prevention is a large part o f the t reat
ment o f w rinkles T o cure wrinkles first look to it that
you do not acquire them
Worry is ano ther foe o f the childlike smo o thness o f ski n
that is o ne o f the most d esirable states o f beauty The o u t
ward and v isible signs o f inward wo rry appear chiefly in
two areas in the diagonal lines extending f rom the nost r ils
to the lips and in the forehea d where they create what a
precocious child studying his mother s f ace calle d gutte r s
”
for the tears
These lines are interesting as i n dicators o f
character The woman with d eep lines about her lips has
g r eater determination an d passion S he has a more intense
emotio nal nature The woman with the strongly marked
horizo n tal lines I n the fo reh ead is more intellectual Her
anxieties are mental while thos e of the woman with the
parentheses are temperamental T o the woman with the
ever growing deeper trace ry o n her forehead I Should s ay
Do n t fret
The woman w ith the fast deepeni n g paren
”
theses I advise
Don t care
Consid er these bits o f a d
vice The disti n ction is illuminative
The accustomed eye sees readily the characters written
by fatigue They are rather creases than w ri n kles deep
folds in the skin as though the cove r i n g o f the muscles had
grown weary and limp and was resti n g f rom its task o f
s moothly fitting o ve r the muscles They are perhaps the
most disfigu ri n g o f the wri n kles and the hardest to remove
The b ad habit o f maki n g faces
I shrink appalled from
my task o f preventing this o r o f cou n seling ho w to remove
S ome women especially American women have
i t s traces
yielded to the ugly habit thi n king that the li n es that follow
it are the price o n e must pay for he r vivacity But they
a re mistaken hopelessly fatally mistaken O ne o f the
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S IGN S O F OLD
THE DREAD
A GE
2 55
most vivacious faces I have k n own is that o f a beautiful
F r ench woman Her face is like a mirror b u t the eyes a n d
mouth a r e the o n ly r eflectors S he does not d r aw th e
mouth down at o n e co rn e r o r the othe r while she talks
S he does n ot raise her eyeb r ows u n til they th r eate n to b e
come lost in he r hair puckeri n g the ski n at the cor n e rs o f
the eyes as though there we r e a d r awi n g stri n g beneath
them S he does not prove her co n ce n tration upon a topic
o f conversation by creating deep horizontal lines in the
forehead above a n d between the eyes S he does not laugh
s o viole n tly that the flesh breaks up i n to ripples a n d eddies
about the eyes S he makes he r glowing eyes and her smil
ing lips express all her thought a n d emotion S o did all
the Fre n ch beauties o f o ld which w a s the reason that
Nino n L E n c lo s a n d Mme Recamier in their extreme age
had lovers a n d n o w r i n kles
The sh r i n ki n g away o f the muscles from the skin is a
serious menace to beauty Its causes are several Pe r haps
a woma n has reduced her flesh more sudde n ly tha n wisely
Perhaps the shri n kage has been caused by a n aemia The
conditio n dema n ds nourishme n t o f the ski n a n d o f the mus
cles beneath the ski n But this is merely a local treatment
More than anythi n g else it requires a rebuildi n g and r e
f
i
e
n
a
o
n
v
u
t
o
the
e
n
tire
system
j
K n owi n g the causes w e must avoi d them We must r e
solve to co n ceal if w e ca nn ot sto p the agei n g process We
must no t dare not wo rry We must never pass a ce rtain
poi n t of fatigue that poi n t at which w e are too ti r ed to
rest or sleep S uch a weariness is destructive We must
n ot make faces while w e talk Whatever o u r emotions we
must t r y to keep o u r features sere n e as those o f a mask
Leave to the mouth a n d eyes the task of expressio n We
must by n ourishing both skin a n d muscles prevent their
divorci n g each other
But granted that the wri n kles have appeared what shall
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2 56
S ECRET S
MY
OF
B EAUTY
do to remove them
We must first remove the cause
which has produced them I f t w
o ugly parallel li n es are
discer n ible betwee n the eyebrows w e must correct that habit
And w e must
o f scowli n g w hose footp r ints are ugliness
avoid eye strain O ften the lines in their beginni n g can be
removed by giving u p the habit o f reading except by day
light and then o f not reading lo n g continuously
A young woman w ho a fter much travel noticed a light
but omi n ou s tracery o f delicate lines o n her face said
Heavens " I must take the rest cure and buy cold cream
”
by the pou n d "
S he w as right Those first menacing
wri n kles showed that s he ha d not prese rv ed the balance o f
vitality which assu r es perfect health S he had give n o u t
her st r e n gth faster tha n she re n ewed it The outgo ex
c e e d e d the inflow which is merely o ver exertion di ffere n tly
phrase d S he went to bed a n d remai n ed there fo r three
days In her darkened room sleep the great iro ner o u t o f
lines aided by the ge n erous and freque n t applicatio n s o f
cold cream removed her w ri n kles When she came fo r th
from her rest cure her skin w as smooth and as delicately
flushed with pink as that o f a healthy babe
The cold cream which she had bought by the pou n d
w a s o n e o f the best to be obtained in the market o r to b e
f r ugally made at home
S permaceti V2 ou n ce ; white w ax
ounce ; o i l o f sweet
almo n ds 2 ounces ; la n olin I ou n ce ; cocoa n ut o i l I ou n ce ;
ti n cture of benzoi n 1 2 drops ; orange flowe r wate r I ounce
S he might have u sed as e ffectively this which has an
astringent quality while the former is essentially a Skin
food "
Almond milk I VZ ounces ; rose water 6 o u n ces ; alum
60 grai n s
This relic o f the customs o f o ld Fra n ce is a n other aid in
the r emoval o f c r o w s feet o r other paths o f age
Honey 3 ounces ; isinglass 1 % ounces ; pu r e v inegar
"
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MY
2 58
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUTY
First she must cultivate as a habit that poise o f the head
which is infinitely useful in removing a double chin S he
must keep the chin a n d head tilted upward the most grace
ful and becomi n g poise o f the head for all women S he
should massage the muscles with the first three fi n gers fol
lowi ng the muscles backward toward the li n es o f the ea r s
For the wee wrinkles that form in fro n t o f the ears massage
with the second finger in rotary motion gently back toward
the ear
F or obstinate wrinkles o n the forehead adhesive plaster
may be cut into strips a n d pasted across the wrinkled
surface after the skin has been drawn taut into place by the
thumb a n d forefinge r
A home remedy is a compress o f o ld linen o r muslin
dipped into a mixture o f the white o f an egg and a gill o f
alcohol Press the loose skin back i n to place as I have
directed and apply the comp ress
Dryness o f the skin will cause wri n kles To understa n d
this study two rose leaves o n e moist and full vei n ed and
nourished the othe r d r yi n g a n d formi n g fine li n es The
dry skin wrinkles sooner and deeper than the oily skin
Wrinkles are chiefly fo r med by the ski n ceasi n g to fit well
over the muscles which it p rotects This may be because
the muscles shrink o r because the ski n loses i t s firmness o r
both
Try t o avoid wrinkles by keeping your face placid The
n ervous person has more wri n kles a n d forms them ea rlier
than the o n e o f more sel f controlled n atu r e Do n t hal f
close you r eyes when you laugh That habit causes w r i n
kle s
Don t let you r mouth d r oop whe n you are a n gry o r
troubled That carves deep li n es about you r lips making
the dreaded pa r entheses Do n t w ri n kle your b r ow when
talk
o
r
listen
to
p
r
ove
you
r
ve
r
acity
or
i
n
terest
It
is
u
o
y
a habit that carves transve r se li n es o n the b r ow
When they begin to appear take more rest P lenty o f
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S IGN S
THE DREAD
O F O LD
AGE
2 59
Sleep is the greatest ir o ner o u t o f wri n kles Correct the bad
habits t hat have caused them Live simply Nothi n g
b r i n gs w r i n kles soo n er than dissi p ation and late hours
When small fi n e lines begi n to appear putti n g cold c r eam
well i n to the a ffected area Should help to drive them away
Ironing that portion o f the face with small lumps o f ice
covered with cotton or gauze is a goo d remedy if you per
sist in it
A metho d i n gene ral use in the beauty parlors o f Paris
a n d that has bee n i n troduced recently in this country is to
spray the wri n kle area with cool o r cold water I f you
have n o t a wrinkle sp ra y a large perfume atomizer will
se rve the same end
When your skin seems loose and i n clined to form into
folds use o n e o f the followi n g remedies
Dip a bit o f abso rbent cotton i n to glycer i ne and pat i t
well into the wri n kle bed O r apply colog n e water i n the
same w ay In a short time you ca n d ecide which is the
better adapted to your skin Glyce r i n e while a food a n d
stimulant to some Skins is a n irrita n t to othe r s
A nightly bath o f the face in buttermilk sometimes tight
e n s up the loosened ski n
This is a method much in use in Paris and Rome Hun
dreds o f years old traced eve n to the time o f Cleopatra it
is still e ff ective it is claimed in keepi n g the cou n te n a n ce
smooth a n d youth ful Heat a Shovel red hot in the fi re
Throw upo n it when s o heated a ha n dful o f powdered
myrrh B e n d the face over it to receive the fumes such
fumes as can pe n etrate the napki n that has been spread
ove r the face Do this t w o o r th r ee times at the same t r eat
me nt Heati n g the shovel o n ce mo r e p ou r white wi n e over
it a n d still th r ough the moiste n ed n apkin which p rotects
the face f r om the heat o f the fire receive the fumes i n the
face A fo r t n ight o f two such treatme n ts given daily is
the recipe a woma n whose face is smooth as a gi r l s though
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S ECRET S OF B EAUTY
MY
2 60
this famous Parisienne is now sixty gave me for my Ameri
c an readers
A Simpler remedy is to boil a small h andful o f pearl
barley in hal f a pi n t o f wate r until it is tho roughly cooked
Add a half dozen drops o f mecca balsam Place in a stone
bottle and Shake thoroughly before using Bathe the face
I n this once a day
These astri nge n t lotions may also be applied with ben efit
Water I quart ; pearl barley 2 hand fuls Boil u n til the
barley g r ains are s o ft S train the li q uor an d add 5 0 drops
o f tincture o f benzoin
Wash the face i f possible a d ozen times a day with this
Oil o f rosemary V2 ounce ; o i l o f lavender 2 drams ;
tinctu re o f tolu 4 drams ; rosewater I pi n t ; rectified spirits
o f wine I yz pi n ts ; o i l of p etit grain 3 0 drops
Believe me if the spirit remains y o u n g the flesh will age
but slowly Cont r ive to keep i n terested in perso n s a n d
co n ditions and circumstances Don t let yoursel f be bored
Flee from bores or drive them f rom you
When you are u n i n terested your face g r ows heavy and
opaque It loses its reflective power that mirror like qual
ity which is its chie f charm One o f the wisest a n d most
enchanti n g women I ever knew — truly a woman i r r e si st i
—
ble
told me she would nev er a llow any o ne to s ee her in
any but he r sun n iest mood
Meeti n g people is maki n g pictures o f one s sel f she
said
Memory pictures that remain lo n g perhaps for
ever in their mi n ds It is difficult sometimes impossible
They may s e e us i n other
t o remove that memory picture
moods and phases but the ugly picture persists I f I am
in an u nbecoming mood I hide u n til it is past as I would
”
hide did I su ffer from an infectious disease
That is true philosophy o f charm B e interested be
cheerful be at your best when you are i n public I f you
cannot be these hid e f rom the sight o f men and women
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MY
2 62
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
I said you must look to your feet That is true If you
have worn shoes that give yo u a silly mincing gait buy
larger ones a n d acquire a free natural spri ngi n g walk
Do n t drag your feet about as though they a n d your body
had a weight you could scarcely bear Lift Your feet a n d
walk with the fi n e spri n g a n d swi n g o f youth This too
is a habit that c an be formed even at an adva n c ed age
Perhaps you have had the slow heavy step o f ag e from
your childhood Then it i s high time to change i t
if you
would be you n g
S tudy the faces about you and you will s e e that some of
them are fi rm muscled full a n d o f even contour In others
you see th at the muscles are saggi n g slippi n g from place
The face is growing heavier about the chin a n d the r e is a
d rawn strained look o f the muscles about the eyes and tem
ples These are the fallen faces
I f you s e e that the muscles o f you r face are beginni n g to
slip downward lose n o time in counte r acti n g this te n de n cy
Had I my
to make the visage look older a n d heavie r
choice between wri n kles and the regrettable fallen face I
should choose the wrinkles a s less agei n g in appea rance and
more likely to be remedied
First reform your habits of Sleepi n g The posture i n
which w e Sleep determi n es i n to what li n es the face a n d
body fall for eight o r ni n e hours o f each twe n ty fou r — a
third o r more o f o u r time I f cor r ect habits a r e formed
for that time there is an a dmirable start on the road to better
looks
N o tice how your head rests as you fall asleep Pe r haps
it is be n t far forward I n that case the facial muscles a r e
relaxed a n d their te n de n cy i s to slip dow n wa r d tuggi n g
their weight especially that o f the larg e chi n a n d cheek
muscles d r awi n g them dow n throughout the night All
muscles relax while w e are asleep That is the reaso n why
pudgy
o n rising in the morning the face looks heavy and
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W
THE DREAD
S IGN S O F O LD AGE
2 63
l muscles do not recove r their tone until the habits o f
Th
e
the d ay reassert themselves
th this knowledge you should be willi n g to make sp e
i
i al ffo r t and e n dure some i n convenience t o p reve n t this
p
slipp i g o f the facial muscles at night Toss away your
.
c
n
.
pillow or if you a r e exceedingly uncom fortable without
one if the blood rushes to the head a n d causes yo u to be
Sleepless u s e a small flat pillow o r bette r still slip such
a pillo wbe n eath the head o f the mattress s o that your body
will res t at a slight i n cli n e a n d the hair a n d scalp will be
spared the heati n g o f the pillow Lie upon your back In
this posture you r chin will be thrust upward a n d the muscles
will be at tension I f you sleep thus the facial muscles will
not sag during the night hours
S tudy your habits during the day an d correct such habits
as cause a falli n g o f the facial muscles Perhaps you be n d
your head u nn ecessarily low over your work I f so avoid
this At any rate give the chin muscles the o pposite e x e r
ci se by be n ding the head backward upon the shoulders many
times a day
Perhaps you have formed the habit picturesquely de
”
walki n g into your chest
This is an unbe
s c r ibed as
comi n g ma nn e r ism o f ma n y women S hyness o r self con
s c i o u sn e s s o r listless n ess may be the cause i n some i n stances
I n others it is sheer bodily lazi n ess Don t let your chin
sink upon you r chest when you talk nor at any other time
It makes a very unpleasant impression upon the hea re r
It gives him the idea that you are secretive or deceitful
Lift your head when you talk and look i n to the face of the
person you are addressi n g H e o r she will admire you
more Besides it is a n other mea n s o f preventing the slip
pin g o f the facial muscles of keeping your face from fall
i ng
We go back to n ature for i n spiration for beauty S ome
o f the most grace ful o f the modern dancers ar e sel f taught
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MY
2 64
S E C RET S
0F
B EAUTY
and nature taught taking fo r models o f grace the swaying
o f the tree boughs and the lilt o f flowers in a wi n d
So
w e can go back to n ature fo r models in the poise o f the
head Take for an example not some ti r ed dray horse
w ho lets hi s discouraged muscles sink beneath his forelegs
but the inquisitive bird with head uplifted and u pturned
eyes seeking to solve the mystery o f the trees
Coax the muscles o f the chin and neck into obedience
B egin n ing at the poi n t where the muscles o f the neck meet
those o f the shoulders press firmly with the fi ngers o f both
hands moving the ha n ds upwa rd to the muscles of the
lower jaw and continuing the pressure o n the muscles b e
hi n d the ears
"
Is your neck beginning to look old
I s the skin growing
"
flabby " Are the muscles saggi n g
IS the Skin looki n g yel
low " Is it no longer a source o f p ride an d pleasure to wear
—
a V shaped o r low cut gown
Do not despair for the agei n g neck is not an infallible
sign o f growing old It is o n ly o n e o f them A n d you
have my assura n ce that you can make it look youthful
again For p roof o f this let me point you t o the g r eat
yes and the great si ngers w ho are thei r
s i n ging teachers
pupils Almost every o n e o f them
indeed I c an thi n k of
no exception
has a round white youthful looki n g th r oat
One o f the most beautiful necks I ever saw white strong
gi r lish w as that o f the celebrated vocal teacher Mme Ma r
c he s i when s h e w as seve n ty
But while this is t r ue it i s als o true that yo u should begi n
giving the n eck special atte n tio n before you are thirty It
we r e better i f you began when yo u were twe n ty fi v e
First look to its ca r eful feeding Give it at least o n e
good meal a day by rubbi n g cold cream liberally i n to the
front o f the neck at night before reti r i n g
Look very ca r efully to the poise o f the head I f the
head be held proudly the chin u p the muscles o f the n eck
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S ECRET S OF B EAUT Y
MY
2 66
a n d connecting the shoulders and lift these also Raise
them as though it were you r purpose to place them i n the
cu r ve o f the neck This should be followed by a vigo r o u s
k n eading o f the muscles
The aim o f all these massage movements is to promote
ci r culation in the neck The yellowish withered looki n g
ski n de n otes that the blood flows weakly in that pa rt o f the
body The flabby muscles i n dicate that the muscles have
not been well exercised A good developing exercise fo r
the neck is to let the head lie back as far as possible o n the
Shoulders then roll sl owly from on e shoulder t o the other
The hands Should be imme r sed i n n ou r ishi n g cold cream
”
befo r e feedi n g the throat muscles This is a formula
for a nutritious cream
Almo n d o i l I V2 ounces ; lanolin V2 ou n ce ; spermaceti
ou n ce ; witch hazel V2 ou n ce ; ti n cture o f benzoi n V2
d ram
Ni n on de L E n clo s one o f the greatest beauties o f French
history had a beautiful neck a n d to he r is acc r edited the
u s e of this neck food "
Rosewater 8 o unces ; almo n d o i l 8 ou n ces ; ti n ctu r e o f
benzoi n
ou n ce ; attar o f rose 5 d r ops
This will be quite as e fficacious a n d much less expe n sive
without the attar o f rose
The following nourishes and whitens the sk i n o f the
neck "
Honey I tablespoo n ful ; lemo n j uice I teaspoon ful ;
whites o f tw o eggs ; enough bra n or almo n d meal to make
a fi n e paste
This wash i s als o a good neck bleach particula r ly useful
in removi n g the dark stains or ri n gs caused by wea r i n g
the prevale n t gilt and silve r t r immi n gs about the throat "
Hyd r ochlori c acid
ou n ce ; water 5 ou n ces
Avoid high tight colla r s Wear soft white Silk a n d mus
lin linings next the throat for colored collars I f it is
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S IGN S
THE DREAD
O F O LD
2 67
AGE
necessary to wear costumes with high collars on the street
cha nge them at o n ce fo r collarless gowns whe n you are at
home I f you wear chains or dog collars about the neck
let them be loose
A famous theatrical ma n ager whose duty it ha d been to
select thousa n ds o f beauties fo r the choruses of his produc
tio n s a n d w ho w as a celebrated con noisseur of femi n i n e
beauty said that a n eck to be beautiful must look as thou g h
”
it belo n ged t o the body that is to use theatrical par
la n ce it must b e in the picture
A long neck o n a short
woma n is absurd a n d a short neck o n a tall woman makes
her look like a freak o f nature I f a girl is slender her
n eck should b e slim but she should take measures to p re
”
vent i ts being scraw n y
If a neck is full a n d round to
co r respond with the body o f the owner it is as nature de
sign ed it to be A full well rounde d neck is not only
beautiful i n itsel f but it is a Sign o f abu n da n t vitality
The same theatrical manager I h ave before quoted said he
cared n ot ho w thin a neck w as i f it matched the body and
”
w as well
covered
He mea n t if the outlines o f the bones
and si n ews were well hidde n by a delicate covering o f flesh
Usually if the n eck is ve ry thi n the e n tire body is also and
measu r es should be take n to upbuild the constitution Eat
ing nourishi n g food b reathing deeply and giving the body
plenty o f rest should fill o u t the hollow s in the neck as well
as the body
This process c an be hastened by patting into it nightly
a n emollie n t made o f equal parts o f almond o il and vase
line Also the n eck muscles can be strengthened by plac
i n g upon the head n ow and then a moderate weight as a
book a n d walking Slowly about the room balanci n g the
book by s o steadying the head that the book will not fall
If the neck be disproportionately fat gentle pinching b e
tween the thumb and first three fingers should re d uce its
bulk
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HO
W
CHAPTER X IX
'
T O T RA I N YO UR C H I LD R E N TO
BE
BE
AU T I F U L
is possible to train a child to beauty and this trai n ing
co n sists o f t w o means One is to teach the little o n e
habits o f perso n al dai n ti n ess The other is to imp ress upon
him o r her while ve r y you ng the p ri n ciples o f health
A third is t o cor r ect a n y defects by early attention to
them o n your ow n part if you are pare n t guardian o r
teacher
Fo r instance there is the child whose beauty may be
marred by outsta n di n g ears The ea r s can be p r essed back
agai n st the head by a comp ress made at home a n d worn at
night A ba n dage easily made i n the house co n sists o f
a lo n g folded st r ip o f stro n g musli n twisted first arou n d
the head be n eath the chi n then arou n d the neck then over
t he crown o f the head the ends o f the strips o f musli n
bei n g drawn rather tightly over the ears and fastened to
o n e o f the lengthwise st r ips by safety pins
I f you fi n d the child o ften breathi n g with difficulty he
probably su ffers from that growth at the back o f the nost r ils
called ade n oids Take him to a physician and have them
removed s o p reve n ti n g a lo n g train o f disaste r s me n tal
and physical whose signs are that strai n ed d r oopi n g coun
Do n t let a n y char
t e n an c e w e kno w as a n ade n oid face
lata n try to convince you that they can b e cu r ed i n a n y
other w ay The si n gle way t o remove adenoids is by a
su rgical operatio n
Look to the fact that the child s teeth have a good start
I
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MY
2 76
S ECRET S
OF
BEAUTY
pores had been closed by the gaudy stu ff with which he
w as bedecked
Bogie sto r ies a r e pe r mi s sible if they
frighten child r en i n to ca r e of thei r health by leavi n g thei r
windows ope n tw o o r three i n ches at n ig ht a n d by wea r i n g
their clothes loose
D on t let the c hildren in your cha rge study to the poi n t o f
eyestrain Teach them to use the ears to save the eyes
Let them learn by liste n i n g It was prophesied by a writer
on health that in time the phonograph that n ow g r i n ds o u t
rag time airs to the lesse n i ng o f the standard o f popular
taste will have records which tell the classic short sto r ies
o f biography
fiction a n d history Do n t allow a child to
ove r study B etter a well developed rosy che c ked little
o n e w ho knows n o Lati n nor higher mathematics tha n a
squinty a n aemic w ho k n ows both but w ho does n t k n ow
the w ay in the woods to the woo dchuck s hole nor how to
defe n d himself in a schoolboy fight
Teach them to love the life in the open I f you live all
year in the crowded city the roofs at least are available
t o you
And in some part of you r home eve n thoug h
small you can put up a crude gym n asium For i n sta n ce
a horizo n tal bar with a mattress d r aw n u n der it for p r e
cautio n will give the little o n es great fun besides bei ng a
developi n g age n t
B r eak the child r e n s unpleasa n t facial habits in the fo r m
i n g S how a little gi r l how ugly a n d old She looks by
flashing a mi rr or before he r eyes while she is f r ow n i n g
S how her that the frown o f co n ce n t ratio n is as ugly as the
f ro w n of a nger a n d trai n her to solve a problem with smooth
b r ows I f she twists her mouth u n pleasa n tly whe n she
talks tell he r o f it and i f that doesn t cure her call the
mir r o r to your aid
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CHAPTER XX
ADV I C E
TO
B LO N
DE S
A ND
B
RU N ETTE S
IX subj ects are o f special consideration t o the blonde
S he must remember that her type has the most delicate
To accentuate her blondness she shoul d
o f complexio n s
keep her hair as light as possible S he should eat such foo d
as will e n rich her golden colori n g S he should avoid what
ever tends to the accumulation o f fat S he should guard
against the faded appearance that comes e a rly to most
blondes S he Should dress to emphasize her golden color
ing
While it is true that woman s hair is her crowning glory
a blo n de s hair is her aureole her halo o f beauty
Half the time a n d atte n tion she gives to her toilet should
be give n to her hair The blo n de s hair as a rule has a
golden tint This tint is the key n ote o f her beauty an d
should b e enha n ced in every possible w ay
S he may wash her hair as ofte n as she likes with no f ear
of its fading The lighter it becomes the bette r Fo r her
there n eed b e no fear o f usi n g carefully those aids in clea n s
i n g the hair ammonia borax o r washi n g soda Each o f
these if used o fte n tends to make the hair several shade s
lighter — but in to o large quantities it will make the hai r
brittle
Because it does not matter how light her hair becomes
the blonde may wash he r hair ofte n er tha n the bru n ette
does A shampoo in borax water o n ce o r twice a week soon
lighte n s the hair One tablespoonful o f borax in a gallon
o f water is su fficient
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S ECRET S
MY
2 72
OF
B EAUTY
Shamp oos a week i n water in which ammoni a has
been sp r i n kled soon brings about a lighteni n g o f the hai r
O n e gallo n o f water a n d hal f a wineglass o f ammo n ia is
a good propo r tion
T w o shampoos a week in a gallon o f wa rm water with a
heapi n g tablespoo n ful o f washing soda in it is the speediest
age n t I k n ow for lightening the hair excepti n g pe roxide
which some blo n des w ho do not wish to actually bleach
their hair use in small proportions in the shampo o O n e
tablespoo n ful o f peroxide o f hydrogen in a gallon o f water
is the usual p r oportion
Every o n e expects light hair to be flu ff y F lu ffin e s s i s
the accompa n ime n t of golden n ess in hair and the observer
o f beauty is always disappointed if he sees fair hair smooth
S mooth n ess seems to belo n g rather to dark hair The
blonde should s o comb and brush her hair that each hai r
is disti n ct a n d separate f rom the othe r s This gives a n
aureole like e ffect to her face and wonderfull y softens her
features
The blonde knows that fair h air is e xpecte d to b e flu ffy
I f it isn t she can make it so by drawing it i n to a loos e mass
after a shampoo a n d tyi n g it with a ribbo n letting it d ry
thus I f the hair is long it can be tied again by anothe r
ribbon close to the ends making it curve o r wave
The blonde s skin bei n g finer a n d more delicate has a
greater tendency to wri n kle Wri n kles come early to he r
because her skin is s o delicate It is like rice paper form
i ng fi n e surface wri n kles as well as deeper o n es For this
”
reason her mott o should be Oil o i l oil
The blonde s complexion is comparable to that o f a rose
It has a superb bloom but fades early The withered rose
petal is o n e of the most pathetic sights i n nature It is a
da n ger sig n al to the blonde sayi n g sadly to her
Gua r d
”
well your complexion "
The blonde should remember that the d r y skin is the fore
T wo
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S ECRET S
MY
2 74
0F
B E A UTY
me n t i n stead o f the severe treatme n t o f the old r égime
Always with a view t o keepi n g a n d e n hanci n g the golde n
tints in hair a n d ski n the blo n de should be careful to eat
such food as will feed the pigment that p roduces the wheat
like hair a n d apple blossom skin
I have before spoke n o f Mme de Crequy the French
beauty w ho w as in ma n y respects a model to the othe r
beauties o f the court o f France Her biog r aphe r s said that
Mme de Crequy had the loveliest complexion ever g r a n ted
to woman They said i n the n ext li n e that she ate every
day thirty oranges and almost nothing else
The o r a n ge is the best frie n d o f the complexion amo n g
the fruits It clears the complexio n marvelously but it has
besides the p r operty o f holdi n g much o f the golden Shade i n
solution A blo n de whom I k n ow tried the experime n t o f
eati n g a half dozen ora n ges a day a n d i n creasi n g the n um
ber to a dozen daily for three mo n ths I n that time the
change in her colo r ing w a s marvelously for the better
He r hair which had bee n a shade too pale took on the rich
yellow o f cornsilk
When she had quite convi n ced herself o f the fact
that ora n ges are the food of beauty and especially o f
blo n de beauty sh e w as advised also to eat ma n y car rots
This She did in co n nection with the ora n ges for si x mo n ths
S he ate car r ots sliced a n d stewed i n cream S he ate them
i n soup S he ate them mashed a n d seaso n ed slightly with
salt a n d pepper S he even ate them baked This she
began doing i n the early summer By the same time the
next year her hair had deepe n ed th r ee shades a n d w as far
richer A n d her complexion w a s freshe r fai r e r a n d it
ha r mo n ized more pe r fectly with the golden lights i n he r
hair
The blonde as a rule must fight the tendency to ac cu mu
late flesh The ma n w ho first w r ote fai r fat a n d fo rty
H e had registered the co n clusion that the
w as observant
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ADVI CE TO BLO NDE S A N D BRUNETTE S
2 75
woman who is fair is at forty more than likely to be fat
A n d so s he is Recognizing this tende n cy o f th e placid
n ature which is usually a n accompaniment o f fair face and
hai r the blo n de should begin to combat it at twenty B etter
at eightee n
S he can preve n t her waist and hips growi n g larger by
deep massage The Japanese women never g r ow fat Ask
them w hy and they Show you ho w they pinch thei r hip s to
c r ush the tissues a n d keep the hips flat
Your fun n y American da n ce the cakewalk is a great hip
reducer That backward motio n with the face tur n ed u p
ward a n d the feet lifted p ra n ci n gly draws the tendons
solidifies the muscles and makes the limbs compact
To reduce the hips with ha n ds o n hips bend forwa r d
swayi ng the upper body in a hal f circle on a horizo n tal
plane
S ta n d erect and try to make the elbows meet in the back
This is an excellent exercise to remove the superfluous fat
o r to p r eve n t superfluous fat fo rmi n g upon the back
To make the waist small and pliant stretch the a r ms hi gh
above the head a n d be n d them forwa r d describi n g a quarter
circle
To reduce the abdomen be n d forwa r d u n til the palms
touch the floor
To avoid g r owi n g stoutness lie upon the back and raise
the body slowly to a Sitting posture without bendi ng the
knees
These exercises alo n e begun ea r ly and persisted in will
keep back the tid e o f fat that comes with the years to most
blondes
S he should guard I have said agai n st the early fadi n g
that is the blighting tende n cy o f her type It is nature s
compe n satio n a reve n ge nature seems to work at the behest
o f the j ealous b r u n ettes that the blo n de who w a s s o ex
i
i
t
u
s
e
i n youth should ea r ly lose the delicacy o f her skin
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276
MY
S ECRET S
0 F B E AUTY
and the brilliancy o f her hair But some blondes have p r e
vented this early fading and what some blondes have don e
o ther blo n des may d o
The cu r e in this insta n ce is the p r e
v e nt i v e
The delicate ski n that has been well fed will no t
grow dry a n d wri n kled early The blonde w ho has mad e
carrots a n d o ranges her chie f a rticles o f d iet for many
years supplyi n g the iro n needed to reple n ish the rich gold
o f her hair will n ot early lose the luster o f that hair
The blo n de s critics say that she should wear gow n hat
shoes and gloves to match but that she should wear o n ly
o n e color
Perhaps this is unt r ue but I have noticed that
many o f them a r e disposed to heap color upon color upo n
thei r costume s Violet a n d green a n d mauve a n d black I
have seen in o n e combi n ation The blonde w ho wore it
looked cheap and commo n and the glory o f her hair w as
dulled by it Had she wo rn any o n e o f the colors alo n e
been a sympho ny in violet in mauve i n green o r in gold
she would have been ravishi n g A n d the sple n dor o f her
hair would have bee n a glo ry i n bur n ished gold But she
di ffused her color e ffects by her stra n ge costume B londes
Should always dress fo r thei r hair
A rude bachelor said that blonde had come to be a
te r m o f co n tempt because there were so few n atural o n es
S cie n tists to o say that her type is decade n t a n d will in the
course o f a few hundred centuries disappear But the
blonde can e n j oy he rself for many ge n e r ations before that
happe n s A n d She may remember that the blonde races
have been the world rule r s for ma n y years
The histo r y of the evolution o f the blonde shows that her
origi n was i n the n o r th but that she emigrated t o the south
and ruled the bru n ette natives S cience gravely i n forms u s
that the blonde flourishes i n the moistest climates This
great racial fact may be applied to i n dividual cases Cer
t ai n ly the blonde w ho wa n ts to cherish her golde n hair an d
fair ski n should not turn i n land but to the seas h ore
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2 72
3
MY
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUTY
cles o f the eyes ache cause eyestrain a n d eyestrain causes
i n flammation of the eye itsel f o f the linings of the eyelids
a n d o f the r ims of the eyelids
Whatever i n fl ame s the li n ing o f the eyes i nfl ame s the
edges o f the lids a n d from inflamed eyelids the eyelashes
fall with alarmi n g swiftness
T r immi ng the e n ds o f the eyelashes once in six weeks I
fi n d makes them grow lo nger a n d thicker I al ways have
this done by a you n g pe r so n because a you n g pers on s hand
i s firmer a n d the r e must be n o trembli n g o f the ha n d that
wo r ks in the regio n o f the se n sitive eye U s e on e o f the
ti n y brushes made for eyebrows a n d eyelashe s Use it
eve r y mo r n i n g a n d eve n i n g B rush the eyelashes lightly
with a downward st r oke t o make them lo n g upward to
make them curly Both serve the chie f purpose i n the c u l
ture o f eyelashes which is to keep them clea n Y o u a r e
most careful to keep your velvet gow n f r ee f r om dust B e
careful also o f your eyelashes which a r e more vitally i m
po rta n t to your beauty
F o r bathi n g the eyes to relieve them o f inflammation a n d
s o to st r e n gthen the eyelashes u s e this preparation
Distilled water 1 pi n t ; co r n fl ow er s 3 0 g rams Crush the
S teep them i n the wate r for a
co r n fl o w e r s i n a mortar
—
day
that is fo r twenty four hou r s S t r ai n the liquor
th r ough a piece o f fi n e cloth such as cheesecloth Heat in
a po r celain pan over a mode r ate fire Cool a n d tightly
co r k Bathe the eyes night a n d mo r ni n g f r om an eyecup
o r with a n eyedropper
S pa n ish women whose eyelashes have faded o ften apply
this mixture to make them darke r "
Water 3 00 gr ams ; sulphate of iron 1 0 grams ; gall nuts
5 0 grams
S t r ai n
B oil the nuts i n th e water fo r a half hour
through cheesecloth or musli n Add the sulphate o f iro n
B oil again unti l t he qua n tity of the li q uor i s reduced o n e
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A DVICE TO BLONDE S
A ND
BRUNETTE S
2 79
thir d Apply at the roo t o f the eyelashes bei n g careful not
to let any o f the mixture touch the eye The best mea n s
of appl ying it i s with a sable pencil This fo rmula may also
be used for the eyebrows
Brush t he e yebrows night an d morning traini n g them to
a hi gh a rch The expression o f the face is more piquan t
if the eyebrows b e high
The br unette even more than the blonde should develop
by every prope r means the brilliancy o f her eyes for while
the brune tte s chie f glory is her eyes that o f the blonde is
her hai r
—
u
S he sho ld besides taking all the rest she needs even
more than she needs s o that she will be sure to have enough
use many cooli n g lotions The boracic acid water which
I have recommended for the blonde I forbid to the brunette
because it often leaves a sediment which clings t o the eye
lashes and shows white as hoar frost o n the black lashes o f
the bru n ette But for her there is the re freshing eyebath o f
cool weak tea o r o f this applied fairly warm
Rose water I gill ; witch hazel I gill
I f the eyes ache persiste n tly retire to a dark room lie
dow n and place upo n the eyes some cool tea leaves secu r e d
there by the useful eye ba n dage or b an dalett e to which I
have referred in a previous chapter
I f crow s feet appear prematu rely abo ut her eyes she
should apply lanolin patting it in thoroughly L anoli n
is the base o f most o f the skin foods a n d has no equal to
my p r esent knowledge as a builde r o f flesh tissues
The blo n de s complexion fades early because her skin is
extr a ordinarily thin a n d fine The bru n ette s as a rule is
the reverse A fine almond meal is a good substitute for
soap for the blonde s complexion
The brunette because her ski n is thicker and has a ten
d e ncy to a n oily a p pearance could to her be n efit u s e once
a day a toilet soap made as follow s
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S E C RET S OF
MY
2 80
B E A UTY
White castile soap 3 00 grams ; spermaceti 2 0 grams ;
1 0 grams ; honey 2 0 grams ; esse n ce o f rosema r y
o xgall
1 0 grams ; essential o i l o f oranges
I 5 grams ; o i l o f lemon
I 5 grams ; attar o f roses 2 drops
2 0 grams ; alcohol
Melt the spe rmaceti and the shaven soap in a bain marie
Add the other i n gredients o n e by o n e mixing th oroughly
after each addition Pour into molds
I f the brunette finds that the pure cold creams contain s o
much o i l and lanolin that they encourage the natural o i l in
her skin she can feed her skin with Slighter nourishment as
for instance some o f the cucumber lotions that have from
time t o time appeared in the articles I have written This
Wash and wipe carefully s i x
can be prepared at home
large cucumbers ; leave the rind o n and cut the cucumber
into inch square cubes Fill o ne saucepan with water and
into a small o ne place twelve ounces o f almo n d oil Drop
the pieces o f cucumber int o the o il and heat until they reach
the boiling point When it has reached that poi n t put it
at the back of the stove and let it simmer for thre e o r four
hours S train through cheesecloth crushing o u t o f the e u
cumbers as much j uice as possible S tir in while it cools
four ounces o f benzoin Keep the liquid in a j ar in a cool
place
I had n ot thought there w as a brunette who did not know
that when she dabs powder o n her face in the evening s he
should cho o se n o t white but Rachel the bru n ette Shade
which has a tint o f yellow i n it But I have seen brunettes
go forth to conquest with their face s o white as to make
them seem ghastly and repulsi v e
S ome o f my blonde frie n ds in Paris were washi ng their
hair every other week in light ale They thought this was
a tonic for the scalp a n d that it made the hair light My
brunette friends on the contrary use diluted claret
Claret I pint ; water I pint
They believe that this helps to keep their hair dark
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CHA PT ER XXI
S U RE
A I D S T O B EA U T Y
O giv e al l the beauty recipes I have teste d and can
perso nally recommend would require three o r four
volumes as large as this There are ma n y helpful ones
which I have been unable to find room for in the chapters
where they rightly belo n g S o I am going to group here
”
in this last chapter a number o f S ure Aids to Beauty
which I feel confident every sensible woman will be glad to
know
Amo n g the recipes a n d bits o f advice which I can least
a fford to miss the opportunity o f passing o n to other women
are many which have to d o with the hair The woman
w ho wants t o
ear her hair parted but finds this ma nn er
unbecoming because the roots o f the hair are darker than
the e n ds will welcome this treatment
S ha mpoo at least once a week U s e the j uice o f two
lemons i n a quart o f water for the shampoo Occasio n ally
substitute for the lemon j uice a tablespoo n ful o f ammoni a
Rub this well i n to the roots when washi n g the hair
The best w ay to make dead brown hair rich a n d glossy
is to upbuild one s general health The hair and teeth are
fairly safe barometers o f the vitality Abundant glossy
hair is usually the i n dex o f perfect health Take the to n ics
o f ple n ty of fresh air o f exercise o u t o f doors o f simple
n ou r ishing food a n d your hai r will share you r vigor
Much brushi n g should make it more lustrous To darken
it some brunettes wash it in this "
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282
S URE AID S TO BEAUTY
2 83
Claret I quart sulphate o f iron %3 ounce
No o n e could ask fo r a mo r e satisfacto ry Shampoo than
the following " Water o ne cupful ; o n e egg ; ti n cture of
green soap 1 teaspoonful cologne 1 teaspoonful Mix
tho r oughly and rub well i n to the scalp
A simple and harmless hair dye that has been vouche d for
by honest folk is the water in which potato pari n gs have
been boiled Walnut stain prepared in the same w ay is
uni n j urious Experime n t u n til you have secured the right
Shade B ut I would advise stimulating the hair by mass ag
i n g the scalp every day a n d by v 1g 0 r ou s brushing
T o get ri d o f dandru ff without maki n g your hair either
oily o r dry first give the scalp frequent shampoos Every
other day o r even daily is not to o o fte n for a week o r t w o
if the case be an obstinate o n e After shampooing and on
other nights rub carefully i n to the scalp a tablespoon ful o r
more of the following
Bay rum 2 % ounces ; olive o i l 72 ounce ; tincture o f
cantharides V2 ounce
S ometimes after a serious illness like typhoid fever o n e s
scalp becomes v ery dry For such a condition massage well
into the roots every morni n g a n d eveni n g the following "
Oil of sweet almonds 4 5 grams ; essence o f rosemary 4 5
grams ; o il o f mace 2 grams
Brown hair that is becomi n g streaked with gray may be
darkened with henna water One handful of henna to a
quart o f water is the right propo rtion B oil down until
there i s only a pint o f liquid
The best method o f s hampooi n g the hair is in my O pinion
to rub tw o o r three ha n dfuls o r as much as is n eeded
through the hair a n d upo n the scalp D raw the lo n g e n ds
o f the hair together to the top o f the scalp a n d lather well
about the neck Massage the hair well with the soap
Then pou r upon the head pitcher after pitcher o f warm
water o r play upon it with the bath spray Gradually r e
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M Y S E C RET S 0 F B E A U T Y
2 84
duce the tempe rature o f the water until it i s cool though
never cold Cold water causes a shock to the scalp that is
detrimental to the nerv es
I have told o f the simplest shampoo I k n ow F o r bru
nettes w ho wish to preserve the glossy d uskiness o f their
hair this is be n eficial "
Rum or red wine 1 wineglassful ; yolk o f on e egg
There is no arbit rary usage i n the matter o f si n geing the
ends of the hair When the e n ds are split singe them
There i s no need at any other time But I have noticed that
the need is liable to occur in my hair about once in t w o
mo n ths The singei n g shoul d always p recede the shampoo
for the odor o f burnt hair is not a desirable f ragrance
One word more concerning the hair B e scrupulous
about your b rushes I f necessary dip them i n to a bowlful
o f lather made o f white castile soap every day after the
morning brushing A hal f dozen d r ops o f ammo n ia in the
water will help to cleanse them Ri n se them thoroughl y
s o that no particle o f the soap remai n s
I have said that the scalp must be kept cool Brushing
helps to preserve this co n dition I have k n own gi r ls w ho
came home tired a fte r a day at busi n ess to wrap a few bits
of i c e in a towel a n d place it upon the flushed an d burning
scalp feverish from a day of i nte n se mental activity This
s oon cools the scalp relieves the co n gestion in the head and
sends the blo od dashing back toward other centers Mas
sage also relieves the congestion
Avoid a dry scalp as much as you d o a hot one Indeed
the dryness i s the e ff ect o f the heat This can b e corrected
by massage Lotio n s containi n g o i l are many I f the tri
weekly massage fails t o release the o il from the sebaceous
glands there may be a few applicatio n s o f this
1 % pints ;
Castor o i l 2 ounces ; alcohol ( 9 5 per
o il o f bergamot 10 drops
I f you insist on using a dye to h id e t h e approaching gray
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2 86
S E C RET S OF BE AUTY
MY
pucker and dry u nbecomi n gly I n stead of using powder so
o fte n ri n se the mouth o fte n w ith stro n g salt water espe
c i ally after a meal an d b r ush the teeth w ith a b rush dippe d
i n to salt w ater o r w ith water in w hich a pi n ch o f b i c arb o n
ate o f soda has been dissolved
hen the teeth are in fai r ly good conditio n this simple
powder is s u fficie n t "
Precip ita ted chalk 5 ounces ; powdered orris root 3
ou n ces ; camphor gum 1 ou n ce
This is a to n ic to teeth a n d gums
Magn esia 2 ou n ces ; powde r ed o rr is root I ounce ; b i
carbo n ate o f soda V2 ou n ce ; g r ou n d cloves 5 drams ; green
a n ise seed pow der 5 d r ams ; powdere d charcoal 4 drams
This is o n e o f the stro n gest o f tooth powde r s and should
be used only occasio n ally a n d i n extreme cases
Precipitate o f cha lk 3 ou n ces ; c r ushed cuttl e fish bo n e 3
oun ces ; powdere d o r r is root 2 ounces ; myr r h 2 ou n ces ;
bu rn t hartshorn 2 ounces
This is a remedy fo r recedi n g gums a n d for those that
are sensitive a n d addicte d to bleedin g
S ugar o f mi lk 3 ou n ces ; tan n ic acid 3 d r ams ; red lake
1 d r am ; oil of a n ise seed 8 dr ops ; oil o f mi n t 8 d r ops ; oil
o f n eroli 5 d r ops
S alt w ater st r o n g a n d warm is a n excelle n t mouth bath
S o is bica rbo n ate o f soda i n a o n e part to three s olution
This is the famous Eau de Botot
Alcohol 1 3 4 qua r ts ; a n ise seed 1 00 g r ams ; gr o u n d c i n
namon 3 5 g r ams ; gro u n d cloves 3 2 gr ams ; e sse n ce of mi n t
2 0 gr ams ; cochi n eal 1 0 grams ; qui n qui n a 1 0 g r ams
This is a mouth wash ea sily p repared at home
ater ( filte r ed if po ssible ) I quart ; alcohol I pi n t ;
salicylic acid 7% d r ams ; oil o f peppe r mint I 5 gra ins
o r a n ge flower w ater 1 5 gr ai n s
This myr r h lotion is o n e o f the best for the mouth "
O r a n ge flower water 5 ounces ; tinctu r e o f m y rrh
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S URE AID S
To
2 87
BEAUTY
grams ; pulverized gum arabic 2 V3 drams ; pulverized gum
mastic 2 drams ; balsam o f Peru V2 dram
A red spot o n the white o f the eye is a sign of i n fl amma
tio n an d that indicates some strain o f the eye First r e
move the strain Give the eyes all the rest possible S leep
more than usual Give up sewing an d reading for a time
Take a midday nap i f you can If not close the eyes as
o ften as circumstances will permit for a few seconds at a
time Keep them closed while o n a train S tudy how
to get the best light you can o n y our task A v oid the direct
light u pon the eye B athe the eyes with an eyecup in a
mixture o f boric acid I ounce ; rose wate r 6 ounces
Keep cool bandages as cold tea leaves o r finely cracked
ice on the eyes Rest rest rest the eyes If a few weeks
o f this care does not clear the spot from the eye consult an
oculist fo r the trouble may b e a deepseated o n e
You cannot cha n ge the color o f your eyes but you can
accentuate their color by taking especial care o f your eye
brows and eyelashes s o that they will grow lo nger and
thicker and le n d their shadows to the eyes B rush them
every night and morning with an eyebrow b rush to keep
them free from dust The brush may be dipped i n t o lano
lin at night There will be plenty o f time fo r the lanolin
to be absorbed by the skin duri n g the night
S ince I advise agai n st hair dyes I can not conscientiously
advocate dyeing the eyebrows a n d eyelashes To massage
la n olin into the eyebrows and touch the edges o f the eye
lids with the same may in time ca use the growth o f new
hair As it comes in it may be a trifle darker That is the
o nly experime n t I advise
Eyebrows that look u neven and scraggly shoul d be
treated every night with an eyebrow brush dipped in this
mixture
Olive oil 1 ounce ; tincture o f cantharides 72 d ram ; o i l o f
nutmeg
ounce ; o il o f rosemary
ounce
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2 88
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
I f by any accide n t the lids have become granular as may
have chanced to be the result o f excessive golf o r excessive
a u t o mo bili n g
the wholesome gi r l does not pe r mit the dis
order to grow S he knows that rest is to some exte n t co r
r e ct i v e of the evil
I f this does n ot quickly remove it I
advise seei n g a physicia n at once I ca nn ot co n scie n tiously
recomme n d a ny lotio n for a diso r der so serious and d i s fig u r
ing A physician s advice is n ecessary
For heavy flabby soft eyelids which will wrinkle early
i n to a prematurely aged appeara n ce the wholesome gi r l
seeks first the extra sleep a n d rest that are the greatest tis
s u e repai r ers
To ge n tly assist n ature i n the work o f r e
u
n
i
v
a
o
n
h
e
t
s
may
resort
to
this
oi
n
tment
e
j
Fresh lard 1 5 0 grai n s ; sulphate of potash o f aluminum
2 5 g r ai n s ; ta n nin 1 0 grains ; borax 2 0 grai n s
I f her eyes he i n flamed and ext r a amou n t o f rest does n ot
ba n ish the u n lovely co n ditio n s he may suppleme n t the rest
with this applied
from three to five d r ops — b y an eye
d r opper
Distilled water 5 0 g r ams ; qui n ce seed mucilage 5 g r ams ;
water o f cher ry laurel 3 g r ams ; bo r ax V2 gram This is
recommended to be used with th r ee times the qua n tity o f
water by the famous Dr V a uca i r e
A n othe r F r ench remedy is this compou n d "
Distilled wate r I pi n t ; sulphate o f zi n c 1 0 ce n tigrams ;
orris root powde r 1 g ram
I f on awake n i n g i n the mo rn i n g the wholesome girl who
is also a n i n tellige n t gi r l fi n ds that her eyelashes are e n
c r usted by se cr etio n s f r om the eyes s he will first softe n
those encrustatio n s by rose w ate r i f that be available If
n ot by warm strong salt wate r o r by equal parts o f witch
hazel a n d water There are ma n y oi n tme n ts recomme n ded
for such pu r poses This is by Dr V au c ai r e an ackn o w l
edged autho r ity o n the care o f beauty It should be applied
after th e lids a n d lashes have been washed i n warm water
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S ECRET S
MY
2 90
0F
BEAUTY
band o f rubber or of stro n g muslin wor n at night will help
to support the muscles also prevent one of the habits which
produce sagging cheek muscles Form the habit o f holdi n g
your head high with chin a little uptilted The application
o f cloths w et in cold water makes the muscles firmer Ma n y
pat the face with i c e Others pass the i c e over it with long
upward strokes from chi n t o fo r ehead The i c e should be
wrapped in cotton o r in a piece o f muslin
A red nose is caused usually by excessive use o f alcohol
o r by some form o f indigestion o r impe r fect circulatio n
Looseni n g your clothi n g whe r ever it is tight whether it be
i n colla r s garters belts gloves o r shoes Eat plai n foods
little meat a n d ma n y vegetables a n d sala d s a n d much fruit
Dri n k water ve ry freely
Y o u can of ten imp rove t he shape o f an ugly nose by ge n tly
pulli n g it beginni n g at the bridge between the eyes a n d
pressi n g the cushions of the thumb a n d first finger agai n st
the Sides o f the nose a n d drawing them slowly ge n tly but
with fi r m pressure to the tip Dip a so ft complexio n b r ush
i n to g r ee n soap which you probably know is a liquid a n d
sc r ub the parts a ffected by blackheads The more obsti n ate
of them may have to be pressed ge n tly o u t with the fingers
Afterward apply cold cream t o
o r a comedo n e extractor
heal the ski n i r ritated by the treatme n t
F o r a n oily n ose t r y dusti n g it with this powder
B ica rbo n ate o f soda 2 ou n ces ; pulverized orris root 1
ou n ce ; pulverized spe r maceti I dram Mix thoroughly and
keep in a d r y place
A sparing diet chiefly of fruit a n d liquids a n d copious
wate r d r i n ki n g should soo n clear the complexio n Alte r
n ate applicatio n s of hot a n d cold cloths to the ski n help to
clea r it A pi n ch of iodide o f lime i n a glass of water i n
daily doses for a week will aid i n the body cleansi n g which
is necessary to ba n ish the tende n cy to boils A few Turkish
baths will aid the work
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S URE AID S
T o B EAUTY
291
For blackheads I sometimes recommend scrubbi n g the
a ffected pa r ts with green soap usi n g a complexion brush
Whe n they have bee n so fte n ed p ressi n g out the blackheads
with the side o f a n eedl e that has been sterilized by passi n g
it through a flame o r th rough boiling water is the best a n d
Simplest mea n s After pressing o u t the blackheads place
cold cream o n the a ffected parts to heal the i rr itati o n
I have k n own double chi n s to b e removed by bandagi n g
them pe r siste n tly i n cloths w et in w i tchhaz el which is an
astringent Also press the muscles upward f rom the side
o f the face usi n g all the strength yo u can coax int o your
hands
Cocoa butte r i n itsel f does no t cause the growth o f hair
but friction o f rubbi n g any cream i n to the skin may cause
the growth o f hair i f o n e is i n cli n ed to such growth
Lemon j uice should remove tan It is too stro n g to u se
undiluted on the face U s e an equal quantity o f wate r o r
o f rose water with it
This is a good lotion for decreasing the size of open pores
also for checking the greasi n ess o f the face
Rose water 3 ou n ces ; elder flower water I ounce ; ti n c
ture o f benzoin
ou nce ta n nic acid 5 grains
All save oily faces are impro v ed by the use of cold c ream
But I know n o reason for usi n g a cloth in applying it The
cloth wastes the cr eam and usi n g it will probably cause the
face to wrinkle Pat the c o ld cream into the face with you r
palms o r the cushio n s o f your fingers
There is no unfailing remedy fo r superfluou s hair o n the
face fo r even electrolysis sometimes fails Try v arious
remedies until the hair is killed Tweezers ofte n remove
the hair permanently Try them first pulli n g each hai r o u t
gently being sure first to sterilize the tweezers by passing
them through a flame or d ippi n g them i n t o boiling water
After removi n g the hairs bathe the skin with w i tchhaz el or
pat into it a soothing cold cream Washing the skin re
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S ECRET S
MY
2
9
B EAU TY
0F
with equal part s o f pe r oxide o f hydrogen and wate r
weakens the hairs as well as bleaches them s o that they will
be far less co n spicuous than i f da r k
I advise n o w oma n to u n de rtake increasi n g the size o f th e
bust without first co n sulti n g he r physician I f he thi n ks it
wise apply w ith muslin cloths to the b r east this lotio n
La n oli n 5 0 grams ; vaseline 5 0 grams ; ti n cture o f ben
z o i n 2 0 d r ops ; iodide o f potassium
r
ams
3 g
He r e is a n excelle n t remedy fo r an oily ski n especially
on the n ose whe r e such a co n ditio n o fte n e n la rges the pores
It is a d ryi n g lotio n which te n ds to draw the pores togethe r
and is made like this
Ros e water 6 ounces ; eld erfl o w e r water 2 ounces ; ti n c
ture o f benzoin M ou n ce ; ta nn ic acid 1 0 g r ai n s
On ly ext r em e measu r es w ill r elieve an aggr avated case o f
blackheads o r acne With a flesh b r ush dipped i n to a lather
made o f warm water a n d white castile soap ru b the a i
fl i ct e d part o f the face vigorously
I f the ugly black specks
have n ot then become loose n ed it w ill be necessary to steam
them Fill a bowl with hot w ater p r ess the face i n to the
bowl j ust avoidi n g touchi n g the face w ith the water and
cover the head a n d bowl w i t h a la r ge thick towel so that
the steam will n ot escape This Should b e do n e for f r o m
ten to twe n ty mi n utes When this bath is fi n ished the ac n e
will be so loose n ed that it will be possible to p ress the black
heads o u t b i t by bit usi n g a sterilized needle Afte r wa r d
massage the pa r t of th e face t r eated with pure col d cream
A famous F r e n ch skin specialist recomme n ds for acne "
S alicylic acid 5 0 g r ams ; pure lard 5 0 g r ams
Wome n w ho fear t o apply to their faces a n ythi n g which
might gr ow hair may safely use the follo w i n g cold cream "
Almo n d oil 2 ou n ces ; rose water 4 ou n ces ; spe r maceti
2
x
ou
n
ce
ti
n
ctu
r
e
o
f
be
n
zoi
n
ou
n
ce
white
a
w
;
;
M
M
M
d r ams ; eld e rfl o w er wate r 1 0 d r ops
Cocoa n ut oil is a good substitute fo r the more expensive
p e at e d ly
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S E C RET S
MY
2 94
B EAUTY
OF
without any apparent cause I have k n ow n them to be r e
moved by applying the followi n g mixture with a ti n y
ca mel s hair brush "
Glyceri n e M ou n ce ; rosemary water M ounce ; carbolic
a cid 1 0 drops
For a bust that is not fi rm this preparatio n is sold in
France
Oil o f sweet almo n ds 1 00 grams ; white w ax 5 0 g r ams ;
tincture o f be n zoi n 2 5 grams ; rosewater 2 5 gr ams ; pulver
i z e d ta n n i n 1 5 grams
For enlargi n g an undeveloped o r atrophied bust D r
He forbid s the
V au c ai r e recomme n ds a fl esh maki n g diet
application o f a n y pastes o r lotio n s t o the meager breasts
but p r escribes this i n te rn al remedy
Liquid ext r act o f galega ( goat s rue ) 1 0 grams ; laco
phosphate o f lime 1 0 grams ; tincture o f fe nn el 1 0 grams ;
s imple sy r up 4 00 grams
H e advises t wo s ou p sp oo n fu ls i n water be fore each meal
The d r i n ki n g o f malt ext r acts is recommended by some
specialists Personally I advise all exe r cises that develop
the chest for this purpose O n e o f the best is called ceil
”
i n g gazing
With the head bent as far back as possible
sta r e steadily at the ceiling breathing deeply while cou n ti n g
for each i n halatio n te n for each holding of the air in the
lu n gs ten a n d for each exhalatio n ten
Bathi n g the face with a mild solution o f borax a n d water
will help dry any superfluous o il Relief fo r this u n p lea s
a n t co n dition will als o be found in this lotio n
S ulphate o f zi n c 2 grains ; distilled water I ounce ; com
pou n d ti n cture o f lave n der 8 mi n i ms
This or the lotion which follows should be applied a fter
bathi n g the face a n d t w o o r th r ee times a day as co n ve n ie n t
Camphor water 1 pi n t ; pure glyceri n e M ou n ce ; borax
ounce
M
Either cologne alcohol glycerine an d water o r tinctur e
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S URE AID S
of
of
T o B EA U TY
295
is
a
good
astringent
for
aiding
in
the
reduction
u
a doub le chin Or you might try for the same trouble
b e nzo i
.
the fo llo w ihg
Vaseline 100 grams ; lanolin 1 00 grams ; iodide o f p o ta s
sium 6 grams ; tincture o f benzoin I ounce
I advise fe eding arms that are too thin with olive o i l or
cocoa butter Both of these a r e fattening agents Patie n ce
and thorough d aily applications of o n e o f these will greatl y
improve the th in a rms But the patient should try exercise
also Holding the arms straight out at the sides a n d mov
i n g them rou n d and r ou n d in a circle is a good ar m de
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v e lo p er
.
Any o f the following creams are excellent for massage
purposes
Oil o f sweet almonds 5 00 grams ; spermaceti 5 00 grams ;
white wax 1 00 g r ams ; rosewater 5 0 grams
This is especially good fo r th e neck ha n ds a n d arms
which are to be uncovered that night
Glycerine I ounce ; rosewater I ounce ; oxide o f zinc
1 ounce
The o ld fashioned Nadine cream has a stro n g claim upon
many beauties o f many nations It is made this way
Lanolin 4 ounces ; cocoa butter 4 ounces ; glyceri n e
d
l
fl
ou
n
ces
r
e
o w e r water 3 ounces ; rosewate r 5 ou n ces
e
;
4
This valuable for its whitening as well as softening e ffect
is o f English origin
Milk o f white almonds 3 ounces ; strained honey 2
ounces ; col d cream 4 ounces ; o range flower water 5
ou n ces
From E ngland too comes this recipe which has been
adopted in slightly modified form by F r ance "
Essence o f cucumber 2 ounces ; j uice o f cucu mbe r s 2
ounces ; spermaceti 1 ou n ce ; white wax 1 ou n ce ; olive o i l
1 ounce ; almond oil 1 ou n ce
This is a well known and valuable massage cream
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2 96
S ECRET S
MY
B EAUTY
0F
Expressed o il o f almonds 9 fluid ounces ; rose water 3
fluid ou n ces ; fine sodium bo r ate 3 3 grains ; spermaceti I
ou n ce avoirdupois 4 00 grai n s ; white w ax 1 ounce av o i r d u
pois 3 70 g rai n s
Fo r making the limbs plump enough to cor respond with
a well developed body tw o methods are practicable One
is to rub olive oil i n to the ski n every night before retiri n g
O r if you p r e fer a col d cream Developing exercises that
will e n large the muscles a r e fo r the a rms twi r li n g them i n
large ci r cles at the sides a n d holding them straight from the
Shoulders For e n la r gi n g the muscles o f the legs a similar
exe r cise f r om the hips swi n ging the leg in large free cir
cles is valuable
I am o ften asked if powder i n j ures the skin Pure rice
powder c an do n o ha r m if r emoved at night with cold cream
Washi n g the face with water d oes n ot s o e ff ectually remove
powder Take the po w der o ff with cold Ic r eam which
mixes bett er with it The n cleanse the face with warm
water a n d almond meal or oatmeal or if yo u prefer it with
soap
Paris physicians also those o f the Russian court have
withd r awn their obj ectio n s to perfumes a n d luxurious
women a r e usi n g them more than ever They are more
discreet a n d discrimi n ati n g than formerly relying mo r e
upo n perfumes used afte r the bath whe n they c an be well
absorbed i n to the Ski n a n d causi ng them to remai n lo n ger
tha n by a hit o r miss applicatio n o f them upo n the hair o r
clothi n g This bo r rowed from E n gland i s a delightful
to n ic applied to the ski n a fter the bath "
Rosemary 6 ou n ces ; orange peel gro u nd into fine powder
i
ounce
rosewater
p
nt
spirit
o
f
ounce
thyme
I
;
;
;
M
M
wine I quart
B ath bags fil led with equal parts o f orris root pow d er and
almo n d meal a n d bran a r e tossed into the baths instead o f
soap and are more refreshi n g a n d quite as white n i n g
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2 98
MY
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUTY
’
Don t eat many sweets
Don t read in a dim light
Do n t bathe in a cold room
Do n t neglect a daily outi n g
Don t read o r w r ite faci n g a light
Don t Slee p in ill ve n tilated rooms
Don t read when the eyes are ti r ed
Do n t read o r w r ite o n a movi n g t r ain
Don t open the eyes upon a bright light
Do n t stand with the shoulders forward
Don t sta n d with the abdome n thrust out
Don t let your hands o r feet remain cold
Don t make faces when you talk or listen
Don t drink much wi n e The less the better
Don t neglect to bathe your feet every night
Do n t Sit o n the last three b o n es o f your spine
Don t be afraid to yawn o r st r etch when alone
Don t thrust the hips far backward as you walk
Don t s i t with one shoulder higher than the other
Don t stand with o n e hip higher than the other
Do n t fail to sleep as many hours as yo u require
Do n t wear t oo light weight clothi n g in winter
Do n t sleep i n a room crowded with draperies and rugs
Do n t forget to visit your dentist once every three
months
Do n t let the chi n bury itsel f in the neck Keep it hi gh
Do n t wear tight shoes o r tight gloves or tight corsets
Do n t b r ush or comb the hair roughly The scalp is
te n der
Don t go into the oute r air di r ectly after washi n g the
face
Don t be a fraid o f r ai n o r s n ow They are to n ics a n d
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b eaut i fi e r s
.
Don t be discontented
in the face
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Discontent eng raves
ugly lines
S URE AID S TO BEAUTY
2 99
Don t fall asleep with the features drawn in a nger worry
o r fatigue
Don t forget that the warm bath is a sedative ; the cool
bath a stimulant
Don t use every new cosmetic you see advertised or hear
recommended
Don t wear clothi n g so heavy that its weight drags upon
the vital organs
Don t dwell upon unpleasant thi n gs D ismiss them i f
you value your beauty
Don t allow the skin to grow dry A dry skin is the
parent o f many wri n kles
They cause rou n o shoul
D o n t rest upon large pillows
ders and double chi n s
Don t lie dow n for rest with you r nerves and muscles
tied in small hard knots
Don t forget that the recli n i n g posture is a storehouse o f
st r ength and beauty
Don t let the muscles grow flabby Firm muscles giv e
the appearance o f youth
Don t lead a too regular life A v aried p r ogramme is
better than an u nva rying o n e
Don t keep you r rooms either too hot or cold but at an
eve n moderate temperature
Don t be afraid to work and to work hard It is only
worry mi n gled with wo r k that kills
Don t allow yoursel f to become ill Every illness sub
tracts from vitality and adds to apparent age
Don t think that when y ou have brushed your hair your
duty to your head is done The scalp must be massaged
Don t wriggle the feet o r fingers or hu n ch the shoulde r s
Find other and less ugly outlets for you r nervous energy
Don t moisten the lips with the to n gue to make them
red It will only caus e them to ro ughen and chap
Don t f orget t h at t h e eye bath the nasal douche and the
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MY
36 6
S E C RET S
OF
B EAUTY
mouth bath are part of the daily ceremonial o f cleanliness
Don t forget for o n e mome n t that health is the basis o f
beauty And build your beauty u pon that only sure foun
dation
Don t neglect the protection for y our skin when you go
o u t or the care for it whe n you come in from o u t of doors
Don t thi n k that to keep the teeth beauti ful they must
be continually brushed After the daily brushing remem
ber the mouth bath
Don t thi n k yo u are ever t oo tire d for the nigh t toilet
The face must always b e washed and cold creamed at night
if you value you r complexio n
D o n t especially if you are slenderl y built permit the
shoulders and chest to sink I f yo u a r e too tired to hol d
them up take a nap o r at least recline for a time
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MY
3 02
S ECRET S O F
B E AUT Y
and lear n to apply your ow n principles o f dressing Make
y o urself individual It costs but little to dress well if you
c an make your o w n clothes
I f you find that your front
view is better face the world as it were instead o f turning
your side to it
I have heard o f some women Her hair grows prettily
When I have scrutinized their faces I have found that what
w as meant by the phrase w as that it gre w in o d d attractive
little ripples or scallops about the face Yet I have see n
the same women brushi n g their hair flat a n d pressing it
back in a hard straight line from their faces These hu
ma n j ewelers we r e neglecting on e o f the best a n gles o f their
perso n ality I have seen women whose rich thick hair
w a s their greatest charm d raw back the hair from their
faces a n d twist it up in a hard little knot I wanted t o cry
o u t agai n st this thoughtlessness
I o n ce overheard a pair talking while in the first stages
The man
o f love maki n g on board a tra n satlantic steamer
Y o u have beautiful eyes but you don t know how
said
to use them
The next day as I saw her W hile on a deck
promenade I saw that he w as right S he hal f covered the m
with heavy lazy looking lids When she looked at a n y one
with them she looked with a Slow steady regard and with
I f I had had eyes like that I should
o u t a smile in them
have bee n most in d ustrious with them I would have
opened them very wide very often every day It would
have illuminated conversati o n and promoted mutual u n der
standing And I w o uld have taught them the pleasant
trick o f smiling
I know a woman o f whom it has often been said "
S he
”
is handsome whe n s he smiles but she hardly ever smiles
a n d this should have been en o ugh o f a tip as you say in
America Yet it wasn t Whe n ever I saw her her lips
drooped Her cheeks muscles relaxed I f anything
startled her o ut o f herself she smile d q uickly roguishly
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THE BEAUTY
’
S PER S O NALITY
0
3 3
with a flash of intelligence and good humor that was e nt ran c
i n g Her smile transformed her f rom a plai n dej ected
looking woman to a radia n t attractive o ne ten years younger
i n appeara n ce than she had looked a second before I f she
had polished her personality She would be always living up
to that smile
I know another woman more intelligen t though younger
S he has lovely red gol d hair At a time when it w a s
fashionable to wear hats that come low upon the face com
l
l
e
t
hiding
the
hair
I
sai
d
her
And
do
you
hide
e
t
o
"
p
y
”
"
your beautiful hair beneath the foolish fashions
”
No she answered
S omehow I always manage to
show s om e o f it P erhaps I d raw it back fr om the fore
head a little more than the fashion requires O r I may tilt
it a little more to the side than is necessary But I always
show my hair
P olishing her personality you s ee
I f a woman h as a beautiful mouth she should be at more
pains than anoth er to massage the lips to keep the m full
and moist S he s h ould massage the gums to keep them
strong and re d An d o f her teeth she should take infi n ite
care S uch a woman should smile and smile again fo r fine
teeth and a fresh sweet mouth are always attractive
I f she has a classic chin a n d a fine throat She should keep
the chin well up to reveal the line from chin to chest
I f her hands are pretty she shoul d wear her sleeves short
enough to display them I f her hands are shapely a n d
tapering she shoul d wear he r sleeves still shorter
I f the lines o f her throat a n d sh o ulder are good she
Should form the Dutch collar a n d low necked habit I f her
figu re is good she sh oul d emphasiz e that within the limits o f
modesty
In short make radiant your personality Discover your
best poi n ts and keep p r eserv e and acce n t them To use
Keep your best foot for
y our plain Americanism
ward
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MY
6
3 4
S ECRET S
OF
BEAUT Y
Fashions change but taste endures F ashions co me and
go but becomingness is a fixed qua n tity
The woman w ho is wise in her o w n beauty will make this
her c reed S he will determine after much obse r vatio n o f
hersel f what is becomi n g to her and what is n ot n ever to
cross the danger line between
S he will not aggressively d e fy fashio n S he will adopt
its bec o ming modes and adapt its u n becoming o n es to the
point o n ly o f becomi ngn ess But s he will resolutely deter
mine that she will wear nothi ng that will detract from her
beauty
In the matter of dress I have the courage o f my co nv i c
tions I will n o t wear that which I believe to be unbeco m
i n g to me S ometimes I may fa n cy I look well in what an
othe r may not admire as a part o f Cavalieri In that I may
be mistaken But I ne v er consciously wear what makes me
look less well than I would otherwise
For insta n ce you will obser v e from my photographs that
I almost n ever cha n ge the style o f weari n g my hair Lo n g
ago I fou n d th at flat waves drawn low upon my brow a n d
cheeks were bec o ming to me In itsel f the style is a
trying o n e but it happe n s t o be becomi n g to my type o f
face The Italian women are almost the o n ly nation that
it t o adva n tage It seems to belong to the
c an wear
large soft e yes straight nose and delicate chin o f the race
And so through t he succeedi n g years I have wo rn them
and because I looked well i n them have w o rn them in the
mor n i n g in the a ftern o on and in the eve n i n g have worn
them to early musicales to lu n cheo n s to teas for dr ives
a n d the opera I have varied the style o n ly when the times
o r character I was playing in opera dema n ded that they be
changed
It is my opinion that the w oman who discovers the style
o f hair dressing that is adapted to her indiv idual style and
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6
6
3
MY
S ECRET S
OF
B EAUTY
comb the rest o f the hair but loosely from about it N ever
tightly for that will give the drawn frightened look which
nature has already carelessly bestowed
I f your face be broa d the high coi ffure i n creases its ap
parent length
I f yours b e a slen d er countenance then a ffect the low
coi ff ure for its tendency is towa r d breadth
I f the face b e broad do not buil d the hair ou t loosely
about the ears Instead comb it upward above the car s
I f the face be slender its appare n t breadth is added to
by the fl u ffi ng o ut of the hair about the c ar s
I f the face is angular its hardness is re d uced by a soft
arrangement o f the hair
In arrangement o f the hair remember that balance is the
law o f beauty as it is o f wisdom For instance balance
the heavy j aw by drawing the hair in a lo o se mass well for
wa r d above the b ro w B alance the s n ub nose by a loose
coi ffure with no j utti n g protuberance at the back to suggest
that it is the corresp o n di n g p ole o f the nose
As to color o f the hair it is my j udgment that we would
better leave it as nature pai n ted it Nature 1S the gr eatest
colorist S he matches complexion eyes and eyebrows pe r
fe c tly with the hair
Transform your hair and you will
be at the trouble o f trans formi n g your e n tire p erso n
We are not to blame for ou r hair but we are to blam
for our hats They must look as though they belo n ged t o
us a s o u r faces o ur eyes o u r teeth belo n g to us
I always tri m my o wn hats First I began to trim them
because I had not the money to buy them or to pay for
t r immi n g them Now I trim them because no o n e can do
s o to suit me
I prefer simple hats for the su fficient rea son that they
are more becoming to me But an ove r trimmed hat is i n
artistic It is ugly It is vulgar The hat should serve
its function of being a becoming frame for the face The
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B EAUTY
TH E
S P ER SON A L ITY
’
0
3 7
head should not be a mere pedestal or milli n er s dummy
Women a n swer criticisms o f the ter
fo r a monstrous hat
”
rible travesties now worn
But they a r e the fashio n
"
n
Y o u and you and
Yes but who made them the fashio
A
fashio
n
can
be
killed
at
its
birth
in
the
shops
o
f
u
o
y
Paris i f women will but determi n edly say
No no n o
”
I do not like it I shall not wear i t S how me others
Remember the law o f balance A woman with a taper
i n g chin shoul d wear a hat built to a co r respo n di n g peak
at the top The e ffect o f thes e two peaks should be to
form an agreeable oval
The round faced woman s safety o f becomingness lies in
the hat in which angles predomi n ate It should have sti ff
ribbon bows and sharp aigrettes o r pointed wi n gs and
dagger like ornamen ts This woman will always be i m
p r oved too by wearing V e ffects in coats and wraps and
gowns
The h o rnlike e ffects should be avoide d by the woman
with sharp features Her task o f lendi n g a sembla n ce o f
softness and rou n d n ess to her face is made easier by a hat
with a so ft brim trimmed with a fall o f lace o r a shirring
of silk o r velvet Also the sharp featured woman should
never wear a sailo r hat Neither should any woman over
twenty fiv e
Here are some rules about dressing so fundamental that
I would hesitate to give them were it not that every day I
drive down Fifth Avenue I see them flagra n tly transgressed
For instance I s ee the short st o ut woman wearing a
short stout coat The long thin woma n wea r s a lo n g thin
coat That is each woman forgetti n g the law o f bala n ce
has chosen that which accentuates what nature has already
ove r acce n tuated The Short coat Should have been wo r n
by the tall woman It would have made her seem sho rter
The lo n g coat shoul d have been worn by the Short woman
to disguise her brev ity
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6
3
MY
8
S ECRET S
O F B EAUTY
I s ee Short women wearing horizontal trimming when
they should have ha d lengthwise trimming pointed trim
ming or n o trimming at all
I s ee a tall s lender woman wearing a long cape whe n
s he could have divide d her su perabundant height in two by
weari n g a short one
I see a short woman wearing a flou n ce about her already
absurdly short skirt By some perversity the short woman
t r ies to emulate the barrel an d the tall woman the telegraph
pole
The woman with a crane like n e ck b ar e s its fun n y le n gth
to a g r i n ni n g world a n d the woma n with a mere line where
a neck should b e muffl e s that up with ruches that make her
look like a frightened setti n g hen
I f only they would have ever befor e them the thought
”
What is becomi n g to me " a n d put far behi n d them t h e
”
"
other questio n What is the fashion
then would women
dress artistically not ridiculously
I do no t preach that which I am not willi n g to p ractice
It happe n s that I do not like white To me it is a dead
tryi n g c o lor There fo re I never wear it I am told this
”
is to be a white season I answer It will not be for me
And I conti n ue to wear blue o r black o n the street a n d pale
shades o f rose or blue or gree n or yellow at n ight A n d
merely because it happens to be a white season people
do not forge t to look at La Cavalieri in rose or yellow o r
blue o r green
Let me recall to you the most b eautiful o f American
women Maxi n e Elliott O n e winter the coat coveri n g the
hips forming a seco n d thickness o f "c loth upon them w a s
fashion able Did Miss Elliott wear it " No t at all I
o n e in
saw her weari n g a very pronou n ced cutaway coa t
which the frock part o f the coat was cut at the very middle
o f her hips s o taking from instead of adding to the width
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3
S ECRET S OF BEAUTY
MY
10
sents the soul S hould you lean more to the material side
o f life you are best represented by red
I f you are o ne of
the growi n g army o f the intellectuals this authority advises
weari n g much o f the mental color which is blue
It occurs to me to inquire whether that is the reason why
women o f strong mentality are often referred to as blue
stockings
I d o not wholly agree with this woman lec
tu r er
I f for instance you are a red woman why not wear
considerable yellow " It will give you a mo r e soul ful
aspect and i f o u r manners react upon o u r characters why
should not colors " Wearing the soul col o r may develop
late n t soul qualities Or the red woman by wearing much
blue might to use a term o f the stage
convey an illu
sion o f greater mentality tha n she has and perhaps stir
that part o f her sel f to greater activity
It is an interesti n g theo r y but may perhap s be pursued
to the point of attenuation One quality I like so g r eatly
in yo u America n s is that you are practical a n d theories s o
te n uous as this I have quoted move you to laughter I r e
call that w h en o n e o f your authors wrote o f the color o f
”
individual auras and talked o f a pink perso n ality s he
greatly i n terested the humorists I leave with you t his
theory to smile at o r to adopt as you like
But in what I shall s ay next I am most gravely serious
That is that in selecting your wardrobe I would have you
think far more about your individuality than about the
passing fashion I d o not k n ow what will be the next
caprice in furs I do not care B eing tall and Slight I
shall choose lo n g haired furs as the silver fox because to
”
use a n Americanism I can carry them well
But if you
w ho read this are short and especially if yo u are sho r t
a n d stout wear short skin n ed fu r s as mi n k a n d seal and
sable i f yo u can a ffo r d them for long haired furs will
render you out o f drawi n g absurdly costumed
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THE BEAUT Y
’
S P ER S O N A L ITY
1
1
3
While choosi n g your hats a n d wraps your gowns and
gloves be for once self ce n tered S elf centeredness is ex
It is in the direction o f
e n sable when o n e is shoppi n g
eco n omy for if we think steadily o f ourselves we will not
purchase a fur coat in which our sister looks adorable but
oursel f ridiculous and we will n ot order a gown that will
prove s o unbecoming that we will give it away after once
o r twice wea r ing it
Keep in mind a fter your o w n indivi d uality (c ertain art
principles that apply to dress This is a good o n e as to
color
Dress up to your eyes your hair o r you r com
lexio
n
Permit
me
to
explain
If
a
girl
has
br
wn
eyes
o
p
She may not always wear brown gowns But she can be
exceedingly careful to wear n o tint that will make her
creamy Skin look sallow For h er creamy shades are b e
comi n g becaus e they harmonize with her complexion
I f a girl has red hair S he will be wise i f she wears sha d es
regardless of the tint o f the moment that will throw the
—
hai r into relie f
as blue o r green o r black I f a woman
—
has I r ish eyes
that fascinating mixture o f blue and gray
that holds in its depths much o f infa n t in n oce n ce yet much
of wo r ld ly wisdom deep eyes that fascinate because they
are inscrutable — she will look her best in gowns that
match he r eyes the same i n dete rminate blue and gray
Think o f yoursel f s teadily and not tenderly in the selec
tion of stu ffs I f y o u are thin and active so ft materials
as chi ffo ns cr epe de chines light weight silks will be
becoming I f you are o f heavier habit heavier silks and
broadcloths are more expressive and s o more becomi n g
The dividi n g li n e between the skirt and bodice is ugly
I f you ca nn ot have a one part dress then hide the dividing
line by a girdle I f you are stout let the girdle be o f the
same shade and mate r ial as the gown I f not slender you
may safely wear a girdle o f di fferent shade than your gown
A rtists know the beauty o f the straight line an d for a
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MY
1
2
3
S ECRET S OF BEAUT Y
few seasons co ut ou r i er es have groped their way to ward it
Pa r allel lines running le ngt hwise are the li n es of beauty i n
d r ess because they consistently follow those o f the figure
Fo r this reason a gown wh o se pronounced li n es are f rom
the shoulder the d r apery curvi n g slightly at the waist gi ve
grace and beauty to the figure Trimmings that ru n
a r ound the figure always lack beauty an d if o f contrasting
material they have a ludicrous e ffect The high girdle gives
a n appeara n ce o f greater le n gth to the limbs The girdle
if n ot o f the same color and material shoul d not be of too
glari n gly the opposite
Remember that sti ff e ffects are always inartistic s o avoid
the appearance o f being trussed up as a fowl i n the oven
o r soldier o n parade
F o r this reason shun tight sleeves
tight gloves o r ski r ts s o heavy or narro w that they make
your gait an awkward o n e I am glad that fashion per
mits the wearing o f loose gloves They give ease to the
hands a n d are far more graceful than the tight ones that
gave the hand the appea r ance o f bei n g stu ffed into it
When selecting you r hat a bit of brilliant color may be
i n t r oduced ; but let it n ot be directly above the face fo r it
will give to the face the illusion o f being pale whether it is
o r not
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3
S ECRET S
MY
14
OF
B EAUTY
tio n This poison is dest r uctive to the livi n g organisms
and in a few weeks tr eatme n t obsti n ate cases o f p imples
have bee n completely cured by the welcome new process
For obsti n ate cases o f ac n e some adva n ced physicia n s are
utilizing the X ray Blackheads are always disfiguri n g
Certai n physicians have adopted the principle that these
micro orga n isms lodg e in the follicles from which spri ng
the small hai r s t hat form a down on the cheeks These
mic r o orga n isms sprea d fast and caus e i n flammation The
X ray is s u mmoned to check the Sp read o f the i n fl amma
tion This they do without danger to the ski n After
th r ee o r four treatments the face looks as though it were
badly su nbu rn ed This appearance rema i ns it seems to
the patient discoura gi ngly lo n g but the results are most
g r atifyi n g in every case I have studied The ac n e has been
permanently removed and the complexion left b eautifully
clea r
A third scientific treatment o f great aid to beauty is the
removal o f scars by an i n j ection locally o f a heal i ng serum
benea th the ski n Its fu n ction is to loosen the st ructu r e
relax the drawn tissues a n d smooth the surface th at had
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bee n to us e an Americanism puckered
There is in this
last remedy the eleme n t of risk that always obtains when a
fo r eign substa n ce is inj ected in to the circulation
B ecause o f this element the method has n ot the entire
endorsement o f the medical profession
A method that has g r eat vogu e j ust now is the n ew or
mod i fied massage called pa tti n g This is accepted by those
w ho have always bee n consiste n t enemies o f massage as it
is gene r ally given Their theo ry is that massage as ma ny
have k n ow n it me r ely moves the wrinkles from o n e part o f
the face to a n other Patti n g they declare does n o t drag
the ski n but builds up the muscles a n d p r omotes the c i r c u
lation The name is a well fitti ng o n e Patting is do n e
very lightly with the ti ps o f the fi ngers
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O DD S
A ND
END S O F B EAUTY CULTURE
1
3 5
The nose clamp is a new and amusing device adopte d by
beauties and would b e beauties to prevent the spreading o f
the n ostrils and to give the nose that would otherwise be
I have called on my friends in
t oo round a delicate point
the morning and have been received in their bedrooms
They looked very charmi n g in their night robes o f delicate
batiste e mb roidered and further ornamented with pink
and blue b o ws not pink and blue bows on di fferent gowns
but combined in the same gown Their hair carefully
parted from the point o f the forehead to the back o f the
neck and braided in two loose braids either hangs b ec om
i n gly over their shoulders o n e braid tied with a blue bow
the other with a pink to match the ribbon garniture o f the
nigh t robe o r is twisted loosely around the head Their
complexions looked f r esh a n d cool from t heir bath o f cold
cream but they all looked o d d and I shrieked with laughter
at them because they wore nose clamps One w ho disliked
the touch o f the col d metal substituted the homely do
mes ti c article the clothespi n
Both the clamp and the
clothespin are well protected by a lini n g o f white sil k o r
velvet Absurd as these thi n gs look I w as assured by all
who wore the m that they served admirably their purpose
Ice has come to be o n e o f the first aids o f beauty It is
used a fter massage o f the face and neck to harden the
muscles I fi n d women using it to drive away w rinkles
and this seems to me scientific for while the shock o f the
first application will d r ive the blood from the surface it
causes it to rebo und bringing a fine flush t o the skin and
feeding the neglected a n d shru n ken tissues
Whatever renews the tissues eradicates wri n kles
Many physicians are e n dorsi n g sulphur facial baths to
cure acne This lotio n is applied several times a day they
told me with goo d results
Rose water 4 o u nces ; precipitate o f sulph u r 1 d ram ;
tinctu r e o f campho r I dram
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16
S E C RET S O F B EAUT Y
MY
Women are beginning to realize that sagging muscles
rather than a superabundance o f flesh are the cause of the
double chin They are preventing as far as possible the
falling cheek muscles and the pendulousness o f the chin
muscles by harde n ing them with lumps o f ice held in the
ha n d and pressed agai n st those muscles as long as the pres
sure c an b e endured ; also by wea r i n g chin ba n dages
First the fa n cy then the fad then the flitti n g This is
the histo ry o f most annou n ced discoverie s o f the means to
heighten beauty They have their littl e hour o f disciple
ship ; their impulsive followi n g ; their period o f vanishing
Yet beneat h n early all the beauty fads there is a more or
less well applied pri n ciple o f science
For insta n ce there is the rubber chin band The band to
control the usurping flesh o f the double chin w as first o f
muslin Then it w a s i mproved by the use o f elastic Now
it has evolved to its best state that o f strong y et light
rubber made with a throat latch resembli n g the lower part
Attached by a clasp o n either side are
o f a horse s halter
straps that faste n at the top o f the head The original idea
o f compressing the flesh s o that it woul d fo rm in a smaller
a n d becoming mold w a s sou n d but the later idea of usi n g
rubb er appeal s still more to commo n knowledge The
weari n g o f rubb er n ext to the ski n causes perspiration
Therefore the rubber ba n d will not o n ly hol d the flesh
o f the pendulous chin in place but by causi n g free p er sp 1r a
tion it will gradually redu c e its siz e The rubber ba n d
worn at night and frequently duri n g the day for a hal f
hou r or more at a time is the best cure for the double chin
the n ew year has o ffered us
The aged hand has been a source o f much morti fi cati on
and a n xiety to the woman who has left her thirtie s a n d her
fo r ties behind her Y e t electricity that prime aid in the
rej uvenation o f beauty has come to her aid a n d now the
woman w ho has a go o d many yea rs to her credit but w ho
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