BTLE 30223 CLOTHING SELECTION PURCHASE AND CARE
SUBJECT DESCRIPTION: This is on aesthetic, technical, economic and psychological
factors in the selection, purchase and care of clothes.
Chapter 1: Guide to Material Selection
Objective:
1. Determine the type of fabric to select or use for the clothing.
2. Apply the factors in clothing selection in their daily life.
3. Wise buyer in the selection of fabric.
Introduction:
The type of fabric to use for any type of clothing is a very crucial step in selection of
clothes. Choosing the right fabric sometimes is too difficult to decide. Settling with the
wrong type of fabric can be one of the main reasons for the clothing to be disappointing
to wear and functional.
What makes the fabric selection process difficult is the fact that there are many options
for fabric types and a few of them could seem the “perfect” fit for a given garment.
However, by finding some common examples, looking at the catalogs and based on
experience, the process of choosing the right material for specific clothes can be made
easier.
There are only two reasons why we want to sew clothing. First, we like a fabric and find
a fitting pattern for it. The other one is we like a pattern for which we need to find a fabric
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for. Finding the right decision lies in these two aspects. They compliment to each other
and work together.
Types of Fabric
Cotton voile - lightweight, semi-sheer fabric notable for having great drape.
Cotton lawn - similar to cotton voile but with the more crisp feel.
Rayon challis - smooth and lightweight with excellent drape. This fabric is slightly
heavier compared to other lightweight fabrics such as cotton voile and cotton lawn.
Chambray - smooth and lightweight but is not know for having good drape.
Denim - heavy fabric with close to no drape and elasticity
Double gauze - rarely used fabric which is literally two layers of gauze woven together.
The double layer solves the issue of sheerness when sewing clothing from gauze while
retaining its positive qualities (lightweight and breathable).
Knit - there are different kinds of knit ranging from heavy to middleweight fabrics. This
type of fabric is your automatic choice if the garment needs to have a great deal of stretch.
Silk - lightweight and fragile with excellent drape. This fabric is slightly shimmery and
slippery making it difficult to work with. Commonly used as a lining fabric.
Satin - weight varies depending o the type of satin. Mch like silk, shimmery, slippery and
fragile.
Linen - middleweight fabric that is a bit elastic. Linen conducts heat very well. It is
popular choice for warm-weather.
Wool - has a wide variety of types depending on the kind of sheep the wool s taken from.
Extremely durable and warm.
Flannel – soft and lightweight fabric that works well for perfect for loose garments.
Terms
Pattern – is the template from which the parts of a garment are traced into fabric before
being cut out and assembled. Patterns ae usually made of paper, and are sometimes
made of sturdier materials like paperboard or cardboard if they need to be more robust to
withstand repeated use.
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Fabric – is cloth or other material produced by weaving together cotton, nylon, wool, silk
or other threads. Fabrics are used for making things such as clothes, curtains and sheets.
Textile – any filament, fiber or yarn that can be made into fabric or cloth and the resulting
material itself. The term is derived from the Latin textilis and the French texere, meaning
to “weave”, and it originally referred only to woven fabrics.
Factors that Influenced Clothing Selection
Factors that influenced the respondents' clothing selection were grouped into physical,
aesthetic, psycho-social, and economic factors. Color, fashion, affordability, durability
and religion, season, occasion and age were factors that influenced respondents' clothing
selection the most.
Age : While selecting fabric one has to think of the age group of the child. For small
children, dainty prints in soft colors can be chosen. Nursery prints are not suitable for
elementary school children. When the children enter late childhood stage, the boys like
masculine colors, for examples blue, grayish blue, and brown and girls like to wear
feminine colors like pink, green and red. Some fabrics, which are delicate, are chosen for
girls clothing whereas, rough textured fabrics are suitable for adolescent boys.
The style of the dress also changes according to the age group of the child. The A-line
dresses are suitable for toddlers and infants. Later on, dresses with lots of gathers are
suitable for girls' frocks. In the same way type of collars are suitable for younger age
group, for example baby collar is not suitable for adolescent.
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Cotton and blends of cotton with synthetics are good for summer as they are good
conductor of heat and absorptive. There are cool and warm colors. The cool colors are
associated with coolness, for example, blue, green, white etc. Warm colors are bad
conductors of heat and associated with warmth for example, red, golden yellow and
orange. So warm colors are suitable for winter, whereas cool colors are chosen for
summer.
Income : Amount of money affects the selection of clothing. Children belonging to highincome group can spend more percentage of money on clothing as compared to low
income. They can spend more money on fashionable garments rather than on durable
clothes. Parents belonging to low-income group prefer durable clothes rather than
delicate ones. Therefore, the preference of the clothing changes according to the income
of the family. Low socio-economic growth gives more importance to durability, comfort
and price as compared to becomingness and beauty.
Occasion : Selection of clothes also changes according to occasion. For daily wear or
informal wear, durable dresses with simple designs can be chosen but for occasional or
formal wear novel fabrics with new styles are chosen.
Fashion: Fashionable clothes look beautiful. One looks odd when one go out of fashion.
Few fabrics and colors are in fashion while others are not. Some clothes should be
brought according to fashion and others should be simple. Children belonging to high-
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income group can wear fashionable clothes to great extent as compared to low-income
group. Too much of fashion should be avoided.
Family Clothing Budget
Clothing is an essential part of any annual family budget. The family budget is really
nothing more than a listing of the expenses and incoming moneys on month to month
basis. In budgeting one must consider the size of the family, its income, the needs of the
family and the locality where the family lives. For a budget to be workable, income should
be adequate or enough to meet the prioritized needs of the family. Anyone can put
together a basic wardrobe even on a limited budget. By shopping for and selecting certain
classic pieces, we can have a multi-purpose, stylish wardrobe that will suit all our fashion
needs.
FAMILY CLOTHING BUDGET
A budget (from old French bougette, purse) is generally a list of all planned expenses
and revenues. It is a plan for saving and spending. A budget is an important concept in
microeconomics, which uses a budget line to illustrate the trade-offs between two or more
goods. In other terms, a budget is an organizational plan stated in monetary terms.
“What colors should I wear?” : Factors affecting Color Trends for your clothes
Color is everywhere, affecting our moods, our fashion sensibilities, even our appetites. It
is the first thing you notice when you look at something. So when it comes to selecting
clothes, color plays a very big role.
The same garment that looks beautiful on one person can look hideous on
another. One of the major factors that result in this difference in visual perception is the
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color of the garment. Hence designers are particularly concerned about the best use of
colors in their creations. Color is at the center stage of fashion.
When there is question of "Which color is best for
me?" no single answer can say it all. There are a
million colors and a million interpretations to those
colors. How can you restrict yourself to a specific
paradigm, when there are so many different factors
affecting your choice of colors.
For individuals, a knowledge of different colors and identifying the perfect colors for
them can have a lasting effect on their whole outlook and image in the outside world whatever be the trend /fashion of the moment. Check out this post on the mixing and
matching of colors to find the right color combination for your clothes as per the color
wheel.
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You may get lost in the world of color names - understandably so, because there are so
many hues and shades. If you want to know the correct names of the different colors
around you, this post "Color names in Fashion" with names of hundreds of colors may
help you .
Color Trends - Factors Affecting Your Choices
There are some major factors that affect our color choices. But they do not work in
isolation from each other; our choices are a combination of all of these. But most of the
time one of these factors outweigh others in our final choice of color.
Age and Gender of the Wearer
Your 5 year old kid would not like a shirt in a color preferred by his 70 year old
grandfather. When selecting a shirt for your kid you would be going for yellows, minty
greens etc instead of the cream or grey or blue your dad may prefer.
Pinks, peach, lavender, soft yellows are preferred universally for kids clothes; but as
they go older they may look for brighter purple, reds etc. The older kids seems to prefer
more mature and earthy colors like tan, terracotta, blue etc.
As you age, changes in the skin and the color of the hair are also to be taken into
consideration when selecting color.
Stereotyping color preferences based on gender will raise the hackles of my equality
advocating daughter, raising the sexist banner on me but they do exist. I bet my
husband would stare blank if asked to prefer between teal and sea foam green,
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whereas I know their difference in my sleep. He probably knows plum as a fruit, not as a
color.
But both men and women have their strong color preferences; sometimes in the
opposite sides of the color spectrum, sometimes uncannily similar.
In a study it was found that blue is a universally liked color, both by men and women.
But have you seen a man actively choosing a candy pink purse, though I would in a
jiffy. Men seem to prefer blue and women shades of red in a comparative study that I
read recently. So there is a gender difference. And marketers seems to have studied
this color preferences in details going by their offerings.
Physical attributes of the wearer
Factors like Size of the person, hair color, skin tone, and eye color can also influence
color selection
Hair color
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If you have blonde hair / golden hair, usually this is accompanied with fair skin and blue
eyes.
Hair with blue undertones (such as platinum or ash blond, auburn red, and snow-white
and jet black). These combinations are good with cool colors like pastel pinks, beige,
pale green, light blues, and purples.
Hair with golden undertones (such as honey or strawberry blond, rust red, brown or
brownish black, or creamy white) - Warm colors or colors with orange or yellow
undertones work well.
If you have black or brown hair go for rich and vivid colors.
Grey hair looks good with cool colors like Navy blue and midnight blue.
Skin color
If you have fair skin you will look better in cool colors like blue and green; soft and
pastel colors like soft yellow, peach, lavender, mint green, alabaster; neutral colors like
ivory ; jewel tones like coral, are all good with fair skin.
If you have darker skin with a warm tinge you will look better in warm colors like red,
orange and yellow ; earth tones like green, orange, olive, blue, navy, emerald,
burgundy, ruby; plum white and pink can also suit dark skinned.
Warm colors have a golden / orange or yellow under tone; cool colors a blue undertone.
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Light skinned people look better in silver colors and dark-skinned in gold colors; though
there are exceptions to this rule.
Eye color
Blue, gray or green eyes - if you have any of these
eye colors you will gravitate towards cool colors. If
you have brown, hazel or amber eyes you would
prefer to have warm colors in your wardrobe.
If you have beautiful eyes and you want to
emphasize this, use a darker shade of the eye color near your face ( as a shawl, wrap,
or hat)
Body size
If you are on the petite side and you want to look slightly larger in stature, you would
prefer to wear white or light colored clothes than a slimming black or navy blue.
Warm colors make the object look bigger than cool colors. Bright shades of a color
makes you look bigger than dark deep shades of the same color. Dark and dull colors
do recede the figure. So a bright red will make you look far bigger than you will look in a
darker shade of red.
Neutral colors like white, black , off-white are good at neutralizing lines and projections.
So if you have anything to hide like an unsightly bulge at the love handles, soft lines in
neutrals should be chosen than a bright red.
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Wearing black is slimming. But if you are
overweight covering your body in folds of black from
top to toe may make you look bigger than
otherwise. Check out this post on 30+ dressing tips
to look slim for more details.
Occasion
If you are going to an evening party with plenty of
artificial lighting you can wear very bright colors and still not look garish. Artificial lighting
at these venues can soften bright colors and make the color look glamorous.
For a business function, brown is a dependable color whereas pink may make you
seem somewhat frivolous in that setting.
For afternoon functions in the broad daylight, you can opt for soft colors which are not
too bright.
So choosing colors according to the occasion is important as well. Not adhering to this
can land you in trouble at times. In the West, black color is worn at funerals but in the
East, white is the predominant color at funerals.
For a creative pitch a navy blue color suit may project the label of being not creative
enough ( it is the stable color) whereas red can give the vibe of an extremely creative
energy
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Time of Wearing the Color
On sunny days you are better off wearing light cool colors to keep your cool. Black is
not the best color for sun. In fact white is the best color for sunny summer days. But
then this is a debatable point as studies have been done showing color has no
correlation to not feeling the heat- it is the looseness of clothes that matters in bringing
down the heat.
For winter I would say warm colors fare better. Choose browns and reds. You will feel
less blue.
Fashion Trends and Celebrity Craze
This is more of a factor than you know. Going after fashion trends after analyzing
yourself is better than following blindly.
Find celebrities that match your body shape and skin and other attributes, notice what
they wear and follow them. They have stylists who knows their job and following them
would do you more good than say, me wearing Jennifer Lawrence's clothes, just
because I love her.
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Visual effects of colors
Colors can have different reactions from people, depending on their associations with it.
But generally, the color theory and its offshoots have categorized color and given them
different attributes, which are universally agreed upon.
Basically color is divided into three categories: Warm, cool and neutral colors
Warm colors are red, orange, yellow and all the colors in between. Red is the warmest
color. These are high energy colors. It is said that these colors stimulates a special
chemical called dopamine in our body which makes us feel good. Warm colors are
considered advancing, stimulating, and exciting. They make objects or shapes appear
larger or more important.
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Cool colors are blue and green violet and colors in between. Blue is the coolest color.
They are considered receding, quieting, and reserved. These colors make shapes and
areas appear smaller and less important.
Neutral colors are black, white, grey and the colors in between.Most of use prefer
neutral colors for their elegance but sometimes they can be energy draining. The
negative energy given by these colors have to be relieved with some splashes of color.
Learn more about neutral colors here
After evaluating all these factors, if you still have a color that you like but may not be the
right one, you can get away with wearing it away from your face like as a skirt or pants.
Explanations of different colors and why you should wear them.
White
White is a classic color, favourite of one and all, the symbol of purity and innocence.
Designers use white a lot because most everyone prefers this color one way or the
other. Lacy sheer white to brocade white with double tones, white clothes and
accessories are always in demand.
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The hassle of maintaining the purity of white color wear after wear do not deter white
lovers from investing in more and more clothes of this color. Check out this post
on washing and caring for white clothes, so that the white color is maintained.
Because of its quality of making an object look bigger, white is not the easiest color to
work with but if played right this color can be an asset in your wardrobe.
Another disadvantage of white is that it can
make you look washed out, without a relief.
Pairing it right with other colors can make
this color an asset to your wardrobe
Off white, cream, beige and fawn
These belong to the natural color group, ie
they are associated with the colors of
natural fabrics like straw, hessian , hemp ,
canvas etc. The raw look of these colors are preferred by many. There are people who
prefer to wear only these colors. If not careful, these colors in their entirety can make
you look quite boring. But generally, these colors are becoming for most people.
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Pink
Pink is a feminine color. It can give out a
feeling of cheerfulness, liveliness. One
disadvantage of wearing pink is that you
can be judged frivolous or at least not
serious enough in a formal environment.
Fuschia pink is a vibrant color giving out a
lot of energy vibes.
Yellow
Yellow is a cheerful, lively and fun color,
the color of sunshine. It is a good color to
treat yourself out of depressing moods as it
denotes optimism. The mood elevating
property of yellow is to be used cautiously
though as sometimes bright yellow color
can be quite jarring and over stimulating.
Yellow is thought of as a suitable color for
kids. A soft yellow can be good for kids, cheering them up and stimulating their minds. It
can also be good for raising self esteem in them.
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Orange
This is another energizing color. It is a color
that is very inviting and exudes warmth. It is
also associated with joy and festivities.
Black
Black is a slimming color which wins it many brownie points. It is a slightly depressing
color when worn on its own, and can sometimes overwhelm the wearer but the elegant
and powerful look of black makes it still an all time favorite color, when done right. If
you have sallow skin, avoid black color, because it may make you look wan.
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Silver
This is a color which gives a feel of the futuristic. Using this color singly for clothes can
make you look like someone from the space but a hint of silver can be a good thing.
Green
A calming color, green is used for its natural feel. Think leaves, plants, shrubs, vines
etc. Everything related to the natural landscape can have that effect on you.
The bright green can give out amazing energy and make you feel young. Lime green is
such a vibrant energetic color whereas a pale green is a very soothing color.
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Pantone.com says green is a color of harmony and balance and of well being. Do you
want more recommendation.?
Red
Red is the color of power. If you want to stand out in the crowd this is the color for you.
Ever wondered why the speaker in the podium wearing red is quite an attention
grabber. People look at you and take note of what you say, be it in a more negative or
positive way - they do.
If you are the introvert you would skip red because it will bring all attention to you. Red
can also be overstimulating, so if you want peace and quite skip red.
Check out the post on more tips on getting the Red colour look right.
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Violet
Violet is a calming color.
Blue
Blue is a universally liked color - a color that
denotes honesty, calmness, trustworthiness.
There are many shades of blue and they mean
many different things. A light blue like sky blue is
very calming and a cobalt blue very energizing
and a dark midnight blue may look dull and dark
in the wrong surroundings.
Navy blue is a formal color. This traditional color can make you look authoritative and
trustworthy. It can also make you give an intellectual aura.
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The problem with dark blue is that it can be a little boring and make you look less
creative than maybe you are inside; but it is a safe color and a favorite of many.
Brown
This is a color which proclaims dependability. A
chocolate brown suit can make you seem
trustworthy and likable. People warm up to you
more when you wear brown.
Lucky colors & Star signs
Do you believe in luck? If you do, you may wish to check out colors that bring on luck
according to your star signs.
Star Sign
Lucky Color
Aries
Red
Taurus
Pink, Baby Blue
Gemini
Yellow
Cancer
Blue, White
Leo
Ruby
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Star Sign
Lucky Color
Virgo
Green, Brown
Libra
Pink, Light green
Scorpio
Maroon
Sagittarius
Purple, Dark blue
Capricon
Dark green, Black, Brown
Aquarius
Blue
Pisces
Light Green
.
Personality
The mind is a curious thing and even if brown suits me the best I choose pink every
time I go to buy something. My desire triumphs over my logical brain.
Ultimately it is your personality that determines the colors you wear. Personality is the
sum of everything we have described and more.
Personality over rides most of the above factors and decides the color of clothes you
buy. So after factoring everything, narrow down on the colors you personally prefer to
wear and do your own thing.
Read more: Infographic @ Kissmetrics.com
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Definition of a Family Budget
A family budget is the main tool used to manage personal finances and save money. A
family budget can be simple or detailed, depending on ones need for track ones income
and expenses for an entire month to make a family budget.
Benefits of budget
Budget plan helps one to achieve ones spending and financial goals, other benefits are
as follows:
Keeping Track : Budgeting allows one to track ones monthly expenditures so that one
can plan key savings strategies for important short- and long-term goals.
Limits one's spending : A budget will identify expenses that can be cut so that one
can set goals on making important long-term savings.
Discipline oneself : Ones goal is to rid oneself of instant gratification (the symptom of
credit card use). The budget sets guidelines on what and when items can be purchased.
Setting Goals : Budgeting supports ones financial goals, which may include: saving for
one's first home, paying down debt, preparing to go to school, planning for retirement
Good budgeting skills add these goals into the budget.
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Family expenses (annual or monthly)
In budget "cash in-flows" needs to be greater than "cash out-flows"
This section allows one to input either monthly or annual family expenses in each of
fourteen different categories including: food, alcoholic beverages, housing, clothing,
transportation, healthcare, entertainment, personal care, reading, education, smoking or
tobacco, other expenses, contributions, insurance and pensions.
Budget planning
Overview: Sitting down and making a family budget may not be the most fun activity
one ever do. However, the effort and thought one put into ones budget can help relieve
stress and enable one to manage ones money more efficiently. Learning to budget for
one family of four is the first step toward smart financial management. If one have
attempted family budgeting before but have experienced difficulty staying on track, try
once more to set one family on the right financial path.
Step 1: List one fixed monthly expenses. Include mortgage or rent payments, electricity,
cable, food, phone, insurance, loan payments and transportation costs. If our children are
in childcare or a private school, add those costs as well. To ensure accuracy, use past
bank statements to make a complete list.
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Step 2: Look through one's past 12 months of expenses. Write down any expenses that
are paid annually. Magazine subscriptions, pest control fees, car registration fees,
membership dues and school supplies for children and other such expenses. Add these
together and divide by 12 to obtain the average monthly cost of these annual fixed
expenses. List this result on one's monthly budget sheet.
Step 3: Write down one variable monthly expenses on one sheet. List the cost of clothing,
entertainment, restaurant meals and other variable expenses for both adults and children.
Remember to look over the past year and include expenses that do not occur every
month, such as school lab fees, sports or music lessons, and the purchasing of gifts.
Step 4: Compare the total monthly expenses to monthly take-home income. Note
whether the expenses are greater or less than the income. Examine each budgeted
category and decide if one needs to reduce that expense. Involve children in the
discussion if they are old enough.
Step 5: Rewrite monthly budget with adjusted figures. Prepare for unexpected expenses
by setting up an automatic transfer system with one bank to establish or build a savings
account. Budgeting helps establish the habit of saving money. Encourage children to save
part of any money that they receive.
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Step 6: Decide the person responsible for keeping track of monthly budget. Rotate the
responsibilities occasionally to ensure that both of them understands the income and
expenditure pattern, frequent communication will enlighten the budget plan.
Step 7: Set up an envelope system to break any credit card habit one may have. Commit
to paying cash for as many expenses as possible. Pay the fixed expenses before
calculating how much money one have left for variable expenses. Put the budgeted
amount of cash in an envelope designated for each variable category expense, such as
entertainment, clothes, restaurant meals, coffee and gifts. Once the money in that
envelope is gone, do not make any additional purchases for the month in that category.
Tips and Warnings :
Use budgeting software to streamline the process. Consider automating loan payments
through the financial institution. Stop using credit cards and pay off any outstanding
balances. Establish savings accounts for children. Open a vacation or holiday fund to
help save for those expenses. Consult with a trusted friend or adviser concerning any
financial difficulties. Beware of consolidation loans if one has credit card debt. Analyze
any fees and expenses associated with savings plans.
Clothing the family can be an expensive endeavor, especially with the growth spurts
that children go through so often when they are younger.
Restrict oneself from impulse buying. Hold oneself to the rule of buying clothes only if
one or one family absolutely needs them. Purchase new items of clothing, wisely. It is
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best to invest in a few staple pieces that match existing pieces in one's wardrobe and
can be worn in a variety of styles.
Take advantage of end-of-season clearance and buy out specials, especially on big
ticket items such as winter coats. One can easily find discounts of 75% or more on winter
clothing at the end of March or April, and summer clothing at the beginning of August and
September. This can be a bit trickier for younger children because they outgrow things so
quickly, but for teenagers and older children one can find significant savings.
Consider setting up a schedule for purchasing new clothes, and make sure children
are aware of the new ruling. It makes sense to shop in the late summer for new school
clothes and proper fitting shoes for the fall- repeat the process in the spring. Before going
shopping for new clothes, have one family go through their closets and remove clothing
that they no longer wear or outgrown.
Creative thinking and flexibility are the keys to keeping one family budget intact.
These tips will help one stick to a strict clothing budget and save money for more
important things. And with a family-there is always something (or someone) that needs
money.
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Cash Flow Statement
A cash flow statement is a financial statement that provides aggregate data regarding
all cash inflows a company receives from its ongoing operations and external
investment sources. It also includes all cash outflows that pay for business activities
and investments during a given period.
Our fashion choices are not just dictated by Vogue and Kendall Jenner, you know. Oh
no. In fact, there is a lot more going on when you decide to go for Those Jeans or That
Jacket (and, also, why you shun certain styles too). While, yes, we're influenced by our
mates and the bloggers we follow on Instagram, we're also influenced by our emotions
and memories. We spoke to two style experts - Kate Nightingale from Style
Psychology and Lisa Showman from Stylebug, to understand a bit more about why we
wear the clothes we wear.
Psychological Factors in Clothing Selection
It Could be an Emotional Reason
There are many reasons we opt for one cut, color and fit and not the other - one of them
being the way we were raised. 'The things we were exposed to as a child are going to
have a crucial effect because they're more available in your mind,' says Kate. 'For
example, if your mum was wearing a particular shape of jacket, you'll have a higher
inclination towards it. You won't know why, but you'll be driven towards buying that piece
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as opposed to something of exactly same color and made of the same fabric, just a
different shape.' Our sartorial tastes come from a subconscious place, so its unsurprising
that our parents, or the people we grew up with, affect our choices just as they affect our
mannerisms, behavior, and personality. On top of that, we also gravitate towards the
clothes that originally made us feel great, safe and secure: 'You get people who felt good
at 18-24, and they discovered a look they enjoyed so they stick to that look and never
move,' says Lisa. 'They never move and they take it with them through their entire life which is why you can often tell a person's age by the way they dress.' She's found, while
working closely with those needing style help, that we tend to hold on to the things that
remind us of happier times - something Kate agrees with: 'There's an element of attaching
emotional and security to old representations of the times when you felt comfortable and
secure,' she adds. 'They are times when you're a kid or a teenager, when everything was
provided for you so you didn't have the challenge of taking it yourself.
It might be to do with the near-exposure effect
Sometimes it's just good old-fashioned advertising leaking into our porous and
impressionable little brains. The mere exposure effect works on the basis that, the more
you see something, and the more you are exposed to something, the more likely you are
to act with a positive reaction without knowing why you did it,' says Kate. In essence, if
you see some crazy new style in a shop window, only those with an interest in fashion or
a sense of adventure are likely to buy it immediately. But once you have seen it on a few
people, walked or passed by a few billboards, then it'll slowly start to move from your
subconscious to your conscious mind and you'll end up giving it a go. It is like converse
at the moment; if there are 10 people in your office wearing converse, then you'll probably
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end up buying a pair,' says Lisa. 'Easy trends like this make it easier to fit in with your
peers, and you can see certain areas having a different 'look' to prove this. So, in cities
like London, you've got an area where everyone dresses quite media-y, or artsy, or high
fashion. Your brain is constantly picking up clues and signals from everyone around you,
so it's a case of you dress as well as the people you are friends with.
It Can be Dependent on Your Job
You are more likely to dress a certain way. And if you're an IT consultant, the same goes.
But those who move to corporate environments find their style, and the clothing choices
they make, to have a pretty negative effect overall: 'When you start working in a corporate
field, you hold on to what you know because all of a sudden, your peers have
disappeared,' Lisa explains. 'It's like a school uniform - you know what to wear in the day,
and how to power dress but you don't know what to wear when you go out. Because
you're not used to thinking for yourself, and you don't have anything to be influenced by.
This is how people get stuck in ruts, and panic when it comes to smart casual.' If the last
time you were able to regularly express yourself was at the age of 18, then you'll hang on
to those styles for dear life until it becomes uncomfortable to change them (see the above
paragraph on being afraid of change...): 'Some people don't stray far from the basics and
they do not have any kind of demanding trend-led job, so they just wear old-fashioned
corporate textures,' Kate says. 'They don't have any visual influences. The life they've
created, usually on purpose, is not demanding a change from them.
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If You are Having an Identity Crisis
This sounds a lot more intense than it is - an identity crisis could mean anything from
getting dumped to getting a new job, and it's in those times that we're more likely to go
hell-for-leather and buy those leather chaps. Or something less insane, but still out of our
comfort zone. 'When you see situations of crisis, and crucial changes in life, you will see
a different style or a change in the person's overall look,' says Kate. 'It's because our
sense of self is reflected in the clothes we wear. If someone, for example, constantly
changed their look and there was no common thread running throughout, then that would
probably imply that they're trying to find themselves and are a bit lost.' Hence why, as
teenagers, we can go from goth to chav to skater to girlie-girl in the space of six months.
We're figuring out which 'tribe' we belong to, but as you get older, you'll find your style
reflects your life: if you're stuck in a rut, your style will be too. If you're all over the place,
then you'll be a clothing chameleon.
It May be the Bloggers
There are loads of psychological tricks shops use to get you to buy stuff (we wrote a
whole article on it), but it only really works if a) you trust the brand enough to start wearing
white dungarees (for example) or b) you've seen someone influential wearing it, too. 'A
while ago, we needed real people to recommend things to us. A good friend who was
maybe a little bit more objective than our close friends who may be jealous, so tell us the
wrong information, or just recommend things that work for them. With bloggers, we can
choose who we follow and like,' says Kate. 'It's the same with brands - the followers are
either similar to the blogger, or it's aspirational.' Word of warning, though - if you're
copying a blogger's style completely, or finding yourself totally obsessed, then that might
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say something about your own self esteem: 'You rarely get people who copy someone
completely who have high self esteem,' Kate says. 'More comfortable people will take
elements and mix them with their own personality.' Which leads nicely on to.
Self-esteem Plays a Big Part
If something suits your body shape, then you're more likely to gravitate towards it,' says
Lisa. So, for example, hourglass shapes tend to prefer skirts because they feel more
comfortable in them - and it's no coincidence that skirts flatter their shape a lot more than
trousers!' But if you're not confident, and you find dressing your body really stressful, then
you're more likely to either opt out and wear tracksuits, or slavishly follow trends. That
last one, Kate adds, is especially noticeable: 'If you are comfortable with your body, and
who you are as a person, you're not going to pretend to be someone else. If you don't
have healthy self-esteem then you will change yourself to fit in with a particular scheme.
Sadly, it doesn't work because our brains can spot elements of communications via things
like body language or facial expressions; we can see that conflict, and see how you're not
authentic.' Basically, if your face, voice and stance are saying one thing, but your clothes
say another, we can tell. So, it is worth trying to figure out what YOU like, rather than
what.
Activity:
1. Bring/show samples of the different types of fabric and be able to identify them.
2. Make a simple cash flow on clothing expenses.
3. Share their experiences in the Psychological factors in the Selection of Clothes
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Chapter 2: The Fabric
Objectives:
1. Identify the parts o a woven fabric.
2. Master the correct cuttings strips using the grainline.
3. Develop the value of precision in cutting the clothes.
Parts of a Woven Fabric
Fabric selvage is the tightly woven edge that runs along each side of a piece of fabric's
lengthwise grain, which is also called the fabric's warp. Selvage edges can be seen on the
edges of quilting fabric that are at the top and bottom of a bolt of fabric. In Great Britain, the
same term is often spelled "selvedge."
Selvage edges occur when crosswise grain threads, called the weft threads, turn back and
forth as they are woven along the length of weft threads, which stay in place (secured at
their ends) during the weaving process. Tiny loops are formed where the weft threads make
each turn, and it is the little loops that keep the fabric's edges intact.
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Selvage edges vary in width. They are bound more tightly than the rest of the fabric—
another quality that prevents fraying.
If you are planning to make a lot of quilts, you will encounter selvages along the
way. Cutting accurate strips of fabric is a skill you should master.
How to See Selvage Edges
Quilting fabrics are usually 42 to 44 inches wide when measured across their width from
selvage to selvage. It is easy to see the selvage edges, although they often change in
appearance along their lengths. Here are some ways to spot them:
•
In some areas of the cloth, selvages may look exactly like the rest of the fabric, but
they are thicker and more tightly woven.
•
Some selvage edges are wide and a totally different color than the fabric (pictured).
•
Selvages nearly always include little dots that show us the colors that are included
in the fabric. Those little dots can help you match colors or locate colors that
contrast or blend when choosing fabrics for quilts. Take a close look at the dots
printed in a few fabric selvage edges.
•
Selvage edges usually include the name of the manufacturer. The name of the
designer and the design's name are often printed in the selvage, too.
Selvage Edges in Quilts
It is best to avoid using selvage edges in quilts because the extra thickness can create
problems (little lumps and irregular areas) when patchwork is sewn together. If the
appearance of the selvage changes in some areas and does not resemble the fabric, the
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appearance of the patchwork will change, too. Extra thickness can also make it more
difficult to hand quilt some areas of the project.
The cardinal rule with quilting is that there are no rules in quilting. When short of fabric and
are forced to include a small portion of the selvage, try to keep it within a seam allowance,
and use as little of the selvage as possible. When a project is complete, people may not
even be able to see where the selvage was sewn into the quilt.
Patterns and Selvages
Quick-pieced quilt patterns are often assembled, at least in part, with rotary cut strips that
are cut from selvage to selvage across a fabric's crosswise grain. Most patterns will nearly
always direct you to avoid using the selvages in the patchwork.
Quilts Designed With Selvages
Selvages are perfect for string piecing but can be used to create any project. Take a look
at a few selvage edge quilts online to see some of the creative ways quilters have used
these unique strips of fabrics.
How fabric is made (ppt video online)
https://slideplayer.com/slide/3439171/
How to find the grainline
All fabric will have a direction to its yarns (woven threads). The threads will run lengthwise
as well as crosswise in a woven fabric in a parallel fashion, interlocking with each other
forming the fabric. Lengthwise yarns are called warp – they form the skeleton of the fabric;
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crosswise yarns which lie perpendicular to the selvedges of the fabric are called weft, or
filling or woof.
In terms of sewing, a reference to the grain of the fabric indicates how the fabric should
be cut so that the lengthwise yarns will be parallel to the length of the body for better
fit and drape; ie. The lengthwise grain is cut so that they run vertically on the
garment/body, and the crosswise grain runs horizontally across the body.
Grainline
On fabric, when you say grainline, it refers to the direction of the yarns along the warp
thread ie lengthwise yarn. This is the lengthwise grain.
The weft thread is referred to as the crosswise grainline. The crosswise grain is
perpendicular to length or warp grain. It has some stretch to it but not as much as bias
grain. The crosswise yarn is fuzzier with more slubs than long grain yarns and when
folded will not lay flat as length grain, but will be a bit bouncy.
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In a sewing pattern grainline refers to the lines marked on the pattern to give you
directions on how to place it on the fabric. Generally, it indicates that the fabric should be
cut so that the lengthwise yarns are placed along the center front and back, down the
center of the arm, down the center front of the pant leg, etc. Bias grain and crosswise
grain are also used depending on the design.
The ends of the grainlines will have arrowheads to show direction, for your understanding
The sewing pattern is kept on the fabric such that the grain line mark is parallel to
the selvage of the fabric. This is how the fabric is cut with the right grainline according
to the pattern
So what is bias grain?
Bias grain refers to the diagonal direction of a fabric. This direction has a lot of stretch on
the fabric.
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When you want a lot of stretch from a woven fabric bias grain is the direction to place the
pattern to cut the fabric. You can cut the fabric in a partial bias direction or a true bias
direction – with the true bias you get the greatest stretch – it is the most diagonal cut of a
fabric. Learn more about bias grain and bias cutting here.
Why is a grainline so important in sewing?
For one, the lengthwise yarns of a fabric are stronger than the crosswise yarns. They fall
and drape better when they fall down the body. The lengthwise yarns stretch lesser than
the crosswise yarns.
Bias grain stretches more than either of these grains, with the true bias grain having the
most stretch. This helps in better fitting according to the shape of the body. So it is
important that you know the grain of the fabric before you cut the fabric.
How To Place A Pattern Piece On A Grainline
The most important steps in the process of making a clothing item comes at the
beginning with the drafting of the sewing pattern then cutting it properly according to
its grainline. If you are a sewing beginner, you might feel a bit overwhelmed by some
of the terms used when discussing the process of aligning, pinning and cutting a
sewing pattern.
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Via Pixabay
Terms like grainline, selvage edge, cut edge, or cut-on-fold can all seem like a big
blur for someone who is just starting out. However, once you understand the
importance of these elements when preparing your fabric and eventually cutting your
sewing patterns, you'll be glad you put in some extra effort to understand them.
Below, we'll walk you through 4 basic ways to align and cut your sewing patterns
according to fabric grain but first, lets start with the basic understanding of grainline
and selvage edge- the two most important elements used in the fabric cutting
process.
The grainline on a sewing pattern is depicted by a double pointed arrow. It is
positioned within the body of the sewing pattern (as opposed to the edge) and
essential
in
the
pattern
alignment
process.
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The grainline on the sewing pattern should match the grain of the fabric which can be
identified using the selvage edge. Here it is, another term- the selvage edge is
depicted by the finished lengthwise edges of the fabric piece. These edges do not
fray and are used as a guide in the pattern cutting process.
When the fabric is taken off the bolt or roll, you'll notice it is woven such that it has
two selvage edges on both its lengthwise sides. Vise versa, the width edges
perpendicular to the selvage edge are called cut edges representing the direction in
which fabric is cut off the bolt or roll.
At the fabric store, the length of the fabric (in yards) is measured along the selvage
edge and cut perpendicular to it (cut edge). It is incorrect to cut a fabric piece along
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the selvage edges as this edge should remain intact and is an essential tool for
aligning your sewing patterns in the sewing process correctly.
Lengthwise Grain: How to Align A Sewing Pattern On The Lengthwise Grain.
The lengthwise grain of fabric is positioned parallel to the selvage edge. Due to
the nature of the lengthwise grain's durability and drape, this is the most common
direction
in
which
sewing
patterns
are
cut.
The first step in understanding whether your sewing patterns are meant to be cut on
the lengthwise grain or otherwise is by identifying the grainline mark on the sewing
pattern. As mentioned above, this is depicted by a double pointed arrow positioned
somewhere within the body of the sewing pattern. This arrow is essential in
pattern-making and pattern-cutting thus you will seldom come across a professional
sewing pattern that doesn't have a grainline marking.
Once you identify this arrow (grainline), note its placement in relation to the top
and bottom of the garment- A lengthwise grainline will extend vertically on the
pattern, pointing towards the neckline/shoulder seams at the top and the garment's
hem at the bottom.
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A
lengthwise
grainline
is
also
(almost
always) parallel
to
the
Center
Front/Back. The Center Front/Back is a vertical line, whether visible or invisible on
the sewing pattern, that represents the center-most vertical line mark at the front and
back of a clothing item. It is important that you understand the concept of these two
center lines as they determine the correct balance, size and proportion of the garment
and used a lot as the starting point in the pattern-making, cutting and draping process.
Once you've determined the grainline of your sewing pattern, align the sewing
pattern on the fabric such that the grainline on the sewing pattern is parallel to
the selvage edge of the fabric. This is actually the #1 rule of aligning a sewing
pattern to the fabric correctly: Always place the sewing pattern such that the double
pointed arrow on the sewing pattern (grainline) is in parallel relation to the selvage
edge.
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The most accurate way to do so is by using a ruler. Measure from one end of the
grainline (arrow) to the selvage edge and place a pin through both pattern and fabric
to secure this placement. Next, measure the same length from the selvage edge to
the other end of the grainline (arrow) and place a second pin through both layers to
secure. Pin the rest of the pattern at the seam allowance and cut it out carefully.
Crosswise Grain: How To Align A Sewing Pattern On The Crosswise Grain.
As opposed to lengthwise grain, the crosswise grain of fabric is located
perpendicular
to
the
selvage
edge.
Although most pattern pieces are cut on the lengthwise grain, some sewing patterns
require to be cut crosswise on fabric. This is mostly done when attempting to fit as
many pattern pieces as possible on a smaller fabric space.
In other cases, patterns may be cut on the crosswise grain if the pattern or weave
perpendicular to the selvage edge is more desirable for the design at hand.
Crosswise and lengthwise stretch is also taken in consideration when deciding on the
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pattern's cutting direction. If cutting the sewing pattern on the crosswise grain allows
for more stretch in the finished garment, then a crosswise cut may end up being the
more appropriate choice.
For the most part however, the crosswise grain of fabric is a bit weaker and features
a different drape than the lengthwise grain, especially when it comes to woven fabrics.
This difference in drape can negatively affect the fit and comfort of a clothing item
once sewn. For that reason, it is usually recommended that most sewing patterns
are cut on the lengthwise grain (parallel to the selvage edge).
To identify whether the sewing pattern at hand displays a crosswise grainline, find the
double pointed arrow marked on the pattern as described above. As opposed to a
lengthwise grainline, a crosswise grainline will extend horizontally from one side seam
to the other, perpendicular to center front or center back. Vise versa, the lengthwise
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grainline extends from the top of the clothing item to the hem, parallel to the center
back and center front.
To align a pattern on the crosswise grain simply position the arrow of the grainline
parallel to the selvage edge as described above. You will notice that while the
grainline on the pattern remains parallel to the selvage edge, the direction of the
garment pattern itself is different than that of a lengthwise grain placement - The
pattern piece is perpendicular in relation to the selvage edge.
Without overwhelming you with too many terms, keep in mind that the woven
threads that are parallel to the selvage edge (lengthwise grain) are called weft and
and those that are perpendicular to the selvage edge (crosswise grain) are
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called warp.
Weft= Threads on lengthwise grain
Warp= Threads on crosswise grain
Bias Cut: Aligning A Pattern On The Fabric Bias
A bias grainline can sometimes be a bit confusing for sewing beginners, but if you
follow the same logic as described above and work with the selvage edge of fabric,
you'll find that a bias cut is just as simple. The bias represents the diagonal direction
within the fabric, and is positioned at 45 degrees in relation to the selvage edge.
You might wonder why you would ever need to cut a sewing pattern on the bias.
Well, bias cuts are actually used a lot more often than you think, mainly in evening
wear/bridal and for making bias binding. While it is more costly due to the fact that it
requires the use of more fabric yardage, it allows for a beautiful drape with added
stretch even for those woven fabrics that completely lack stretch along the lengthwise
and crosswise grains.
Don't believe us? Try this experiment: Pull a woven fabric vertically along the selvage
and note it's stretch. Now do the same horizontally on the fabric, perpendicular to the
selvage edge. You'll notice that the lengthwise flexibility of a woven fabric is usually
identical to its crosswise. Now, stretch the fabric diagonally from one corner to the
opposite corner- notice the stretch? The intersection of the threads diagonally allow
for more movement and increased comfort.
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A bias grainline is positioned diagonally on a sewing pattern at a 45 degree angle in
relation to the center front/back line. It points from one corner to the opposite corner
of the pattern piece intersecting the lengthwise and crosswise grainlines.
To align a bias pattern piece on fabric, follow the steps described above by aligning
the arrow mark on the pattern parallel to the selvage edge of the fabric. Make sure
you position the grainline at exactly the same distance from the selvage edge
throughout- use a ruler for precision.
You'll notice that aligning the bias grainline parallel to the selvage edge will
automatically position the pattern piece diagonally on the fabric. This is the beauty of
grainlines- once they are marked on the pattern piece, all you have to do is place
them parallel to the fabric's selvage edge and you'll always achieve the correct
alignment.
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Cut on fold: Cutting a Sewing Pattern On Fold
Cutting a pattern on fold is conveniently used when limited on work space, to save
pattern paper, or simply for cutting comfort. Keep in mind that not all pattern pieces
can be cut on fold. In the case of an asymmetric design or when the fabric is too
difficult to handle or cut while folded, cutting patterns on fold is not an option.
Vise versa, in the case of a pattern piece that has symmetric sides separated by a
straight line (usually center front or center back), cutting on fold can be quite
convenient. A cut on fold mark on the sewing pattern is usually depicted by a double
arrow pointing downwards towards the edge that is aligned with the fabric fold (see
image bellow).
As is true for all pattern cutting methods, it is important to look at the grainline on
the sewing pattern before determining whether to fold the pattern crosswise or
lengthwise. Follow the directions above to determine the grainline's direction in
relation to the selvage edge.
A lengthwise fold as shown below is the most common of the two. A lengthwise fold
is generally more stable, easier to measure and align.
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When folding the fabric lengthwise, make sure the distance from the fold to the
selvage edge is exactly the same throughout. This is important in achieving the
proper cut and fit and avoiding off-grain comfort issues in the final garment. Once
the fabric has been folded, align the cut-on-fold edge with the fold on the fabricthey should be perfectly matched and overlapping.
Once the pattern piece has been cut and the pins are removed, you'll notice that
opening the folded fabric results in two identical, symmetric sides.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_4ddlJvR1SU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PGVFEVnmwbQ (How to find the grainline)
How to Find the Grainline Without Selvage
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEAFEDrmmkc (How to find the grainline without
selvage)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdJHHXlAM2g
How Pleated Fabrics are made?
Pleating involves folding fabric into different shapes creating differences in the volume
and texture of the fabric. Pleating fabric involves having a mold made up of two pieces
of card that are folded identically so that they can fit together with an outer wrapper to
protect the pattern during the heating process.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dv79rcgZBOw
Chapter 3: Textile & Production
1. Develop the skill in choosing the right fabric for the right clothing.
2. Evaluate how to buy the right fabric for the right design of clothing.
3. Consider the three key points in choosing the right fabric.
Three Key Points in Choosing the Right Fabric
1. Consider the Fabric Weight. The weight of a fabric is measured in GSM (grams
per square meter) and it defines how heavy or light a fabric is.
2. Examine the Fabric Drape. The drape determines how the fabric flows. In short,
stiff fabrics have less drape, and fluid fabrics have more drapes.
A fabric with more drape will make the skirt float away from your body while to a
fabric with a soft drape which will make it fold close to your body. For example,
you want a flowing skirt, you should pick a thin an ell-draping fabric, but if you want
a more structured skirt, choose a stiff and thick fabric.
3. Test the Fabric Stretch. Stretch is how much your fabric stretches. Fabrics have
different elasticity (ability of textile fibers to “bounce back” when they ae stretched).
When you are choosing a fabric with stretch, you have to be sure that it works for
your pattern, because it can change how the final product fits the body.
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To measure the stretch of a fabric, stretch 5” of fabric over a ruler, holding one end
on the zero mark and stretching the other until you feel resistance and then divide
that number by the original length of the fabric.
For example: if your fabric stretches to 7.5”, it stretched 2.5 past the original length.
This is 50% stretch.
How to Buy Fabric
1. Type of Fabric – First thing to know what is the type of fabric you have in mind.
The textiles available are broadly categorized as natural textiles and synthetic
textiles.
Natural Textiles
Cotton
Silk
Denim
Flannel
Hemp
Leather
Linen
Velvet
Wool
Synthetic Textiles
Nylon
Polyester
Acetate
Acrylic
Polar Fleece
Rayon
Spandex
2. Colorfastness - Ensure that the color of the fabric is even, without any streaks
or spots. You will have to open and check carefully to see indications of uneven
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dyeing. There may be spots or color fading on areas especially on the crease
line/fold line. If you find light colors in some areas, unless it is a design, do not
buy – this may indicate that the color will fade with washing machine.
One way you can test the color of the fabric you are about to buy is to take a small
white handkerchief or cotton, dampen it and then rub it somewhere on the fabric.
If it is good quality the color will not transfer to the fabric/cotton in your hand.
3. Suitability and Location – You have probably have some sort of garment in
mind when buying the fabric and you have to know the suitability of the fabric then.
For example, you cannot make wool swimsuit or cotton sports clothes or polyester
baby clothes. Think of the occasion and the place where the garments will be worn
as you choose the fabrics to make them. Wool will not do in a desert environment
and chiffon will definitely not be right for visiting the cold alpine region. The cotton
fabric would be perfect for summer clothes since they are perfect for cooling the
skin.
4. Shrinkage – You have to consider the shrinkage factor when choosing your
fabric. You have to know if the fabric will shrink after getting wash. Every fabric
shrinks differently. In order to be on the safe side, by an extra 10% of the fabric.
If you can consider a preshrunk fabric which will not give you trouble. Preshrunk
fabrics have labels such as “Sanforised”, “Mercerised” and so on.
5. Color – The color of the fabric is very important especially if you ae choosing
the fabric to make your own dress. Choose a color that agrees with your skin tone
to make the dress even more beautiful on you. If it is a wedding color and you are
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buying fabric to make several dresses, just ensure that the color is in accordance
with the wedding theme color. Shop for the fabric in broad daylight and not after
sunset if you are going to an actual brick and mortar shop. Artificial lighting can in
some cases distort the color which is why you need natural light to tell the real
color.
Just remember that once the fabric has been cut from the bolt, you cannot return
it when you realize it is the wrong color after buying it. It will not be accepted, and
you will be forced to spend more on the right or correct color of material this time
around. This could really put a dent in the budget.
6. Quality of the fabric -
Before you even check whether it is linen, cotton,
polyester or nylon, you must feel it against your skin and feel whether it is of good
quality. The fabric must be blemish-free especially when it comes to things such
as dye, print, fibers, tears and so on. The quality should be perfect because if the
fabric has blemishes, you will no doubt have clothes made that will depict those
imperfections in the fabric.
7. Pattern – You might be considering buying patterned fabric after you see the
various appealing patterns on display. Just take into great consideration the fact
that there will be pattern repeat in these fabrics which should influence the cutting.
The motifs on the fabric have to be distributed in a systematic manner by being
placed correctly especially at the seams. Be careful and ensure that the fabric
does not become distorted or when matched p or lined to create the garment.
When it comes to patterns, choose one that will best represent the fashion look
you intend to achieve with the dress created in the end.
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8. The Fabric Gain – This should be a major consideration when buying fabrics
because as much as you buy the most attractive fabric, it might present some
challenges if the grain is not right. With the wrong grain on the fabric, the outfit
you make with it will hang wrong. The moment you realize the grain of the fabric
is all wrong do not buy it to avoid further complications down the road.
9. Fabric weight - The fabric weight is in most cases determined by factors such
as the fiber type, weave and so on. The weight of the fabric can be indicated by
GSM which can vary from 60-700. A denim fabric, instance, will have a GSM of
400 of course depending on the weave. Just remember that a higher fabric weight
does not necessarily mean that the fabric is of fine quality. The fabric weight
should mainly influence suitability.
Knowing the fabric weight will help you
compare various types of fabrics and decide on the best fabric for garments of
certain occasions and environments.
Buying fabrics should not be a headache now that you know what to look for. Go
out there and shop for the fabric of your dreams and transform it into the most
fashionable designs of garments.
Activity:
1. Bring/show at least three different types of fabric and determine what is the best
design for this type of fabric and why.
2. Watch and evaluate a video on choosing the right fabric.
3. Watch a fashion show and assess the clothes based on the topic for the day.
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Chapter 4: Care of Clothes
Objectives:
1. Learn how to take care of the different types clothes.
2. Apply the proper way of washing and ironing clothes.
3. Share/give their assessment after their classmates demonstrated on proper washing
and ironing of clothes.
How to Wash of Your Clothes
1. Pay Close Attention to the Insides of Collars. It is here that stains can creep up
from skin products, like lotion or makeup. Be sure to wash them immediately, especially
before hanging shirts in the closet (scroll down for tips on how to remove stains).
2. Avoid Dryers. They will break down the fibers of the fabric and cause the garment
to shrink and age prematurely.
3.
Instead, Air-Dry on Hangers. Colban prefers wooden ones. “The width of the
hanger should not overpass the width of the shirt shoulders. Make sure the shoulders
are well laid on the hanger and more generally, pull a little bit the fabric of the shirt to
limit wrinkles (this will facilitate ironing).” When storing hangers in the closet, she
suggests leaving space between them — to keep the pressed shirts smooth.
4. Rewash Stains. “Before ironing, it is important to check that there are no more
stains. If there are, wash the shirt again.”
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5. Iron With Water. Colban advocates for steam or no steam, whatever you prefer, but
cautions against completely dry ironing. “It is better to iron the shirt when it is still humid.
If necessary, a spray with water can make ironing more easy.”
6. Iron in Order. The correct ironing order is: collar, cuffs and then the rest of the shirt
7. Pack Them Well. Before traveling with a dress shirt:
1. Button the shirt completely.
2. Put a plastic or cardboard band — the kind that come inside new shirts from the
store, or from the cleaners — inside the collar (to help support the collar and
maintain its shape.)
3. With the shirt front-side down, place a sheet of paper or tissue paper on the back
of the shirt before folding it (to avoid creases).
4. Use soft cases, like these, to keep the shirts in good condition.
5. When piling the shirts, alternate their directions.
Insider Tip: Wrinkle-Free Traveling. “I travel with a small spray bottle, and then I fill it
with water,” says Bruce Pask, Bergdorf Goodman’s men’s fashion director. “When I
unpack, I just give the shirts a quick spritz and tug on the bottom of the hem, and then
the wrinkles kind of come out naturally without needing to press it again.”
T-Shirts
The designer Tony Melillo, whose eponymous line of super soft T-shirts (ATM) is
beloved by T’s web editors, wears a white T-shirt almost daily. Here are his simple tips
for taking care of them.
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Wash Gently. Melillo suggests washing T-shirts with cold water and drying on
permanent press to avoid wrinkles. Also, try OxiClean. “I’m not saying it’s going to take
away pit stains but I put it in everything.”
Stash Carefully. Folding T-shirts keeps them fluffy. Melillo suggests folding in the
sleeves toward the back, and then folding the T-shirt in half once crosswise, to avoid
creating extra creases. And keeping them in a light stack on the shelf. Don’t hang your
T-shirts: He says it creates unsightly hanger marks, and it stretches them — T-shirts
can grow an inch just from gravity’s effect on cotton.
How to Starch Shirts Like the Laundry at Home
Written by
Mary Marlowe Leverette
If you like your shirts to look and feel crisp, then you probably rely on a professional
laundry service to handle their care. But believe it or not, you can capture the sharp and
professional look of a "stiff as a board" fabric at home. There are just a few things that
you should know and by following these tips, you'll save time and money by making fewer
trips to the cleaners.
Here's What You Need to Iron Like a Professional
Before You Begin
One of the keys to successfully getting a shirt to look and feel crisp is selecting the right
type of fabric. The shirt must be made of a woven fabric. You cannot achieve a crisp shirt
with a knit fabric.
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Shirts made of natural fibers like cotton or linen will hold the starch and crispness much
better than a fabric made from a blend of natural and synthetic (cotton/polyester) fibers or
a hundred percent synthetic fabric. If the shirt is labeled dry clean only, it will be difficult to
add the right amount of starch necessary to make it crisp.
Always start the process with a freshly-washed, stain-free shirt.
When to Iron Wool Clothes
Wool and cashmere are on the delicate end of the spectrum when it comes to
fabrics for clothing. Therefore, great care must be taken to ensure that the
cleaning process doesn't damage the the fibers, which come from sheep, goats,
alpaca, and llama.
Ideally, wool and cashmere clothes should be hand-washed, though they can be
machine-washed on the delicate cycle using shampoo formulated for thee
garments. Stay away from chlorine bleach, as even dilute solutions of chlorine
bleach will cause permanent yellowing, color loss, stiffening and weakening of
wool. Additionally, never place any wool or cashmere garment in an automatic
dryer—you will end up with a shrunken garment that is often impossible to restore.
Structured wool clothes, such as outer coats, blazers and men's suit coats, should
always be dry-cleaned. While the exterior wool fabric is washable, the fabrics used
to create the inner structure may be destroyed or become misshapen when
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washed. There is no way to reverse the damage once this happens.
Activity:
1. Two-three students will demonstrate on washing and ironing of clothes.
2. Watch a video on ironing clothes.
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Chapter 5: Small Business in Clothing
Objectives:
1. Aware that they can put up their own on-line textile business with no or little
investment.
2. Develop characteristics of a good entrepreneur.
3. Learn the requirements in planning a business and inspire them to put up their own
business.
Nine (9) Steps to Starting Your Own Textile Business
The textile industry can be regarded as one of the most active in recent times. Hopefully
it will continue to gain strong ground in times to come, as well. If the idea of opening a
textile business has fascinated you, it is time to take some action.
Being in the textile industry means having close connections with the world of fashion
and designing since textile businesses supply fabrics to these subsidiary industries.
There are two types of textile businesses, one that includes chains of stores selling all
sorts of fabrics and the other that includes small stores that sell only a few, particular
types of fabrics.
Therefore, if you are planning to make a fortune in the textile business, you must first
decide what kind of textile you want to sell. Before you get the idea rolling, make sure
you are sure about where you are headed.
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Planning the Business
Photo Credit: Wikimedia
1. Know the Market
It is always a good idea to take advice from those who are already in the business about
the market and the challenges it entails. However, before you take the plunge you must
have an idea about the following:
a)
Product Demand
It is important to understand the nature of demand for the particular type of fabric you’re
planning to sell. Demand may not be same everywhere so you should carry out an
area-wise survey to determine it.
b) Competition
If there is another store in the same locality selling similar products that you intend to
sell, then try to discover what you can do to outplay them.
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c) Pricing
Pricing is an important factor in any kind of business. Try to price your products as
competitively as possible.
2. Research
If you want your textile business to be a successful venture, you cannot underplay the
importance of good research. You need to understand your customers, what they seek
and also what your competitors are doing. There are other considerations to make as
well, like the kind of capital you would need to start the textile business, your funding
options, steps you need to take to promote your business, the type of licensing your
business needs and much more.
3. Connect with Vendors for Textile Printing and Production
If you are planning to start a business in textile printing or production you should begin
to look for the vendors supplying the raw materials needed for that purpose. Latex
products are used by many in the textile markets for digital textile printing.
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Photo Credit: Wikimedia
4. Find the Fabric
You should start contacting manufacturers and vendors to decide the type of fabric
you’d like to carry. You need to maintain caution when purchasing high-quality fabrics or
a wide variety of them. If you want you can also check up on some unique fabrics
outlets or local artisans specializing in hand dying fabrics or weaving textiles. Such
types of fabrics will add value to your regular offerings.
5. Manage the Cash Flow
Even if you have already arranged for the capital to start your small business, owning a
small business credit card would allow you to take care of the recurring charges and
make secure online purchases. You might even be entitled to a number of extra benefits
like cash back offers on certain purchases.
6. Location
Whether it’s a shop for selling textile products or a factory that produces textiles,
location is a major factor that influences the success and growth of your business. If it is
a factory, make sure it is well connected. At the same time it should also have an
abundant supply of water and electricity. For shops, it should be located in an area
frequented mostly by your target buyers.
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7. Time Management
Mastering the art of managing time is crucial to the success of any business. If you are
constantly running short of time and in the process missing out on important tasks, it is
time you learned effective time management.
8. Transportation
An important consideration in your textile business will be transportation. You must
include the cost of transportation in your budget before starting any business venture.
Photo Credit: Wikimedia
9. Advertise for your business
You need to let people know
about the new business you’re
going to start or have already started. Spread the word to as many prospective buyers
as possible. You can expect a good start to your business if more people are already
aware of it beforehand. Social media marketing and online marketing are some of the
most powerful tools these days. You can effectively reach out to a large number of
target buyers by using these tools. Signing up for Twitter or creating a new page on
Facebook can get you started along these lines.
To start a textile business you need to first make sure that you have gathered enough
knowledge not only about establishing the business but also about the product you
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intend to sell. In-depth knowledge of fabric, in this case, such as how it is made or how
to produce better quality than your rivals will help you climb the ladder of success.
On-line Apparel Business/Clothing Business/Garments
Business/Retailing
If you are starting your own online clothing store, this guide answers all of
the following questions•
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•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
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•
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How to create an online apparel store?
How to create an online clothing store?
How to start a clothing website?
How to start your own online clothing business?
How to start an online clothing store?
How to start your own clothing store?
How to start an online children’s clothing business?
What is the start-up cost for a clothing store?
How to create a website to sell clothes?
How to start your own clothing website?
How to start an online store for clothing, apparel, or garments?
How to create a fashion startup business plan?
How to start a successful online clothing store?
How to plan to start an online clothing business?
How to start an online clothing store with no money?
How to prepare a fashion company business plan?
Apparel Photo from Shutterstock.
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Start Selling & Open Online Apparel Business
Following things should be considered while starting an online store with no money:
1. Identify Your Clientele And Research Your Market
Targeting everyone in the initial stages can lead to a lack of a targeted inventory and
confusing marketing. KYC – know your customer – is far from simply a banking norm. It
is the foundation of a well thought and painstakingly planned business. Thus, identify
your target customers, i.e., whether you wish to begin with catering to men, women or
children, or any combination of these. Look into niche verticals as well, such as clothing
for curvy or ‘plus-sized’ women, maternity wear for office goers, traditional apparel that
is handmade/ handwoven by Indian artisans, and the like. Remember to start with a
narrower clientele. Know that you can expand with time, so don’t try to do it all at once.
When researching your market, you need to target your competition, your product, and
the future market for your offering.
•
Another KYC, Know Your Competition, is the key. Know what they’re selling,
who is buying from them, what is their marketing strategy. Understand what
they are doing and how they are doing it so that you can do it better.
•
Get feedback on your clothing from your network of friends and family to have
an intimate and honest survey. Ask them what they liked and what they didn’t,
and what they would feel happy buying. Make notes.
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•
Be sure to take into account market research conducted by third-parties, such
as this one:
Image Source: Wazir Management Consultants
2. Business Plan and Startup Capital
A business plan is a charter of the various aspects of a business, how they blend, and a
prediction of what the expected outcome is. The variables of your business
plan (manpower, storage/ warehousing, marketing, sales, costing and corresponding
fund requirement, delivery logistics) will depend on the model which you choosewhether you manufacture apparel and wish to further sell it in wholesale, or if you wish
to only retail, or if your business structure is to procure from a wholesaler and then
retail, or simply to dropship. Decide what, how much, and when you will be sourcing the
fabrics and the material.
Your clothing apparel business plan and requirement of capital will be formulated in
tune with the model (or combination of models) you want to premise your business
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upon. Now get your startup capital ready, it could be your savings or loans from
friends/family or bank or could be raised capital from the third-party. Therefore, you
must have a fashion startup business plan.
3. Flaunt your Unique Selling Point (USP) and Decide on the Brand Name
Define your USP. It sets you apart from your competition. It can be the fact that your
fabric is sourced from fair trade shops or is organic, or that you offer custom tailoring at
home or that you donate one piece of clothing to a child in need for every online
purchase, etc. Remember, every online apparel business/store sells cloth, but what
makes it different from another is its USP. So, flaunt your USP and let your clientele
know that you offer the ‘x’ factor, which your competitors do not.
Next is to give a name to your unique offering. The name of your brand is what people
will identify you with. It must define your products, must resonate with your USP, and
should be short and catchy! Make sure it is available for Business Name Registration
and domain names.
Delve into different languages and try to come up with a name, which would give the
consumer a glimpse into the experience he/ she will have with your products. Do not
shy away from using help from professionals and online tools such as Wordoid.
•
4 Things You Should Start with to Market Your Brand
•
5 Branding Mistakes You Need to Stop Making Right Now
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4. Decide what eCommerce platform you will take in selling online
Now when you have decided on your target and offers time to decide how you wish to
be seen online, there are many possibilities vis-à-vis how to make your brand go live.
Gauge the pros and cons of each. Check out other e-tailers’ websites- how are they
showcasing themselves online? See bigger brands, as well as niche brands. Assess
what characteristics you like, what is a must-have, and what you despise. You can,
(i) Create your web store from scratch,
(ii) Offer your products on online marketplaces such as Amazon, Myntra, and Jabong;
or
(iii) You may opt for a SaaS (Software as a Service) e-commerce solution
Creating a web store from scratch will need you to hire a team of professionals
(programmers, designers). Though this option will give the exact store which you
visualized, it could be a time and intensive money process as you need to pay for each
aspect, be it buying a domain name, hosting, website designing, security, coding, and
everything. It is a good option only if you have a successful existing online business and
are looking to scale due to huge demand.
An online marketplace is a reasonable option, as it allows you to list your products/
catalog on its website at a low initial cost and might give you volume sales. But for that,
you either need to be an old player or have good company reviews and lower prices.
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Online marketplaces also have a commission on the sale of your products and brand
building would be negligible.
SaaS platforms do not need a techie to manage your online apparel business website. It
is easier than self-hosting because you can have a website set up in 30 minutes and a
monthly price as low as INR 1000 / month. For creating your brand, it is better than
marketplaces. Moreover, some service providers offer the DIY option, so you get your
shop the way you envisioned it. Be sure to execute non-disclosure and confidentiality
contracts with your host.
ZDNet Survey: Reasons why businesses are opting for SaaS
Image Source: ZDNet
5. Get Your Domain Name
You can buy a domain name from hosts like GoDaddy or BigRock. Get it registered for
a trademark, so you deal with no legal issues in the future. But when you opt for a SaaS
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platform, you get it here only. The latter would gather all your tech work under one
umbrella, ensuring responsibility and accountability, and reducing the number of
verticals you would have to deal with.
It makes good business sense to purchase the additional domain endings like .com,
.net, .in, and other such available and applicable TLDs. It would ensure that consumers
reach your website even if they remember the domain name incorrectly.
Ensure that you get SSL (Secure Sockets Layer) certification from your host. It ensures
that sensitive information, such as credit card numbers and login information, is
encrypted while being transmitted. It is important to instill confidence in your clientele
while they purchase products from your website.
6. Get, Set and Load Your Website with Information
(i) Few must-have pages – Know Us Better, Stunning Collection Categories, FAQs,
Sizing (International Size Chart), Shipping, Returns, Feedback or Contact Us, The
Weave (a blog of sorts, with creative and relevant information regarding cloth/ textile in
general and your apparel in particular).
(ii) Upload high definition photographs – This is critical, as you must ensure a
visually enthralling experience for your consumers. Especially for online apparel demo,
multiple views and zoom in the photograph are a must so that the viewer can have a
closer view of the fabric. Better hire professionals and go for the model shoot as it gives
an idea to the viewer how the apparel will look like when worn. Consult a lawyer – apply
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for copyright for the photographs of your ensembles; they are your online business
assets and need protection.
(ii) The Size Chart – Upload the sizes available along with the size chart guide. It is
very critical when targeting women section for fashion apparel.
(iii) The Descriptions – Upload detailed descriptions of your ensembles. Integrate your
content with Google keywords on Google Adword, and ensure you have professional
help with Search Engine Optimization (SEO) techniques and tools – it increases your
online visibility exponentially.
(iv) Finalize the prices of your ensembles– Keep it relative- know how your
competitors have priced their products. Take into account shipping costs, and do not
charge a bomb for delivery.
(iv) Cataloging – User-friendly catalogs make shopping quick, fun, and easy for your
customers. Showcase your unique and new arrivals on your front page. Segregate the
products under different collections like formal, casuals, nightwear, etc. Keep the color
variants along with the size of the selection. Also, don’t forget to set up cross-sell and
up-sell opportunities. They generally increase bag value.
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7. How Will You Deliver?
Fulfilling your customers’ orders on time and safely is key to success. It needs to be
decided before you finalize your prices as for how you will determine the cost of
shipping, which you have to integrate into your products’ pricing.
Consider whether you want to have your team which carries out the delivery of orders,
or an independent delivery/logistics team. Do you wish to have a huge inventory and
warehouse all of it, or would you try dropshipping? You could have a slab based costing
for shipping. For instance, for orders up to INR ‘X’, you could charge your basic shipping
cost. For orders from INR ‘X’ to ‘5X’, you could charge a tad less, and for orders above
INR ‘5X’, shipping could be free. In case you offer free shipping (which is very attractive
to online consumers), ensure that you absorb the cost of shipping in the cost of your
product as much as possible.
Some companies have become a one-stop-shop for online businesses, such as Purple
Stores. Not only will they set up your online apparel business, but offline as well, i.e.,
they provide you with logistics support for order fulfillment.
8. Rake in the ‘Cha-ching’!
Online payment can be made through credit and debit cards, internet banking, etc. Be
sure to integrate PayPal/Paytm and CC Avenue/Citrus Pay (choose the payment
gateway you wish, but keep multiple options – just in case one fails, there should be
another one available for consumers). Payment gateways have their commissions and
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set up costs, so be sure to investigate properly before deciding which one to use for
your website. Purple stores ties in the popular payment gateways into your website
(with the sole exception of their starter plan) for free.
•
The Latest Technology that Helps Your Get Money Transferred Quickly and
Easily
9. Go Live, and Shout Out to the World!
Launch your website for online apparel business; plan a party with page 3 regulars or
persons from the textile/ clothing industry; start a blog regarding your business in
particular, and about textiles/ silhouettes in general; try and get news coverage.
10. Promote your Online Business, Online!
Social Media is everywhere – there is nowhere it cannot or has not reached. Use it to
promote your business, be it Facebook for business, Instagram, Twitter, Pinterest,
Youtube, Tumblr, or any other social platform. Come up with interesting hashtags,
slogans, and taglines. Make sure you apply for the copyright of taglines that qualify for
copyright protection.
Selling apparel online is a different ball game from creating and cultivating your brand of
the online apparel business. Although the latter involves a good deal of initiative,
planning, coordination, and implementation, just a few loyal consumers will make all the
work worth it! With professional help readily available for your technical, creative,
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logistical, and legal concerns – sometimes all under one roof, there exists no reason to
deny the world exposure to your fabulous creations! Go online, Sell big!
Activity:
1. Invite a young entrepreneur whose line is on apparel or fabric.
2. Watch video on successful entrepreneurs to inspire them to go into business.
References:
https://intrepidsourcing.com/blog/perfect-material-clothing-production/
https://blog.makersvalley.net/3-key-points-to-choose-the-right-fabric
https://www.textileschool.com/5389/tips-for-buying-the-best-clothing-fabrics/
https://www.doinaalexei.com/beginnersewingtutorialblog/4-ways-to-lay-out-a-sewingpattern-for-cutting-understanding-fabric-grain-and-the-selvage-edge
https://www.techprevue.com/guide-start-apparel-online-business/
https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/234685919.pdf (reading materials)
https://www.iiste.org/Journals/index.php/ADS/article/view/17040 (abstract)
https://www.investopedia.com/investing/what-is-a-cash-flow-statement/
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