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‫תאריך עדכון אחרון ‪23-07-2018‬‬
‫נקודות זכות באוניברסיטה העברית‪2 :‬‬
‫היחידה האקדמית שאחראית על הקורס‪:‬אמירים ‪ -‬תכנית מצטיינים‬
‫השנה הראשונה בתואר בה ניתן ללמוד את הקורס‪0 :‬‬
‫סמסטר‪:‬סמסטר ב'‬
‫שפת ההוראה‪:‬עברית‬
‫קמפוס‪ :‬הר הצופים‬
‫מורה אחראי על הקורס )רכז(‪:‬ענת הלמן‬
‫דוא"ל של המורה האחראי על הקורס‪anathelman85@gmail.com :‬‬
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‫ד"ר ענת הלמן‬
‫תאור כללי של הקורס‪:‬‬
‫הקורס בוחן תופעות ותהליכים שונים בתרבות המערבית מהמאה ה‪ 16-‬ועד סוף המאה ה‪ 19-‬דרך‬
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‫האשנב החומרי‪-‬חזותי של הביגוד‪ .‬הקורס מציג תיאוריות מרכזיות על אודות לבוש ואופנה ובוחן מקרי‬
‫חקר היסטוריים‪ ,‬הדנים בביגוד כמשקף ומאשש תפישות פוליטיות ולאומיות‪ ,‬מושגים של מעמד‪ ,‬מגדר‬
‫וגזע‪.‬‬
‫מטרות הקורס‪:‬‬
‫לאתר את תפקידי הבגד במערכות חברתיות במערב בעת החדשה‪ .‬אחרי הצטיידות בכלים‬
‫תיאורטיים‪ ,‬ייבחנו מקרי חקר היסטוריים שונים‪ ,‬תוך ניסיון לזהות את האופנים שבהם שימשו בגדים‬
‫ואופנה נדבך בעיצוב זהות מעמדית‪ ,‬מגדרית ולאומית‪.‬‬
‫תוצרי למידה‬
‫בסיומו של קורס זה‪ ,‬סטודנטים יהיו מסוגלים‪:‬‬
‫לסכם תיאוריות מובילות בתחום; לבקר מחקרים היסטוריים על הנושא; להסביר את המאפיינים‬
‫העיקריים של הלבוש והאופנה בתרבות המערבית המודרנית ולפרש באופן עצמאי דפוסים ספציפיים‪.‬‬
‫דרישות נוכחות )‪:(%‬‬
‫‪100‬‬
‫שיטת ההוראה בקורס‪:‬השו"ת מתנהל כדיון רב‪-‬משתתפים ומדי שבוע כל התלמידים מציגים בכיתה את‬
‫מסקנותיהם מפרקי הקריאה‪ .‬במשך הקורס יוגשו שלושה תרגילים בכתב ובסוף הסמסטר יוגש חיבור‬
‫מסכם‪.‬‬
‫רשימת נושאים ‪ /‬תכנית הלימודים בקורס‪:‬‬
‫תיאוריות על האופנה בתרבות המערבית‬
‫ביגוד כשפה‬
‫אופנה‪ ,‬ביגוד ושינויים חברתיים‬
‫לבוש והרפורמציה‬
‫האצולה והבורגנות העולה‬
‫לבוש ומגדר במאות ‪19-18‬‬
‫קולוניאליזם ולבוש‬
‫מדים ולאומיות‬
‫הסולם המעמדי‬
‫חומר חובה לקריאה‪:‬‬
‫‪* Gilles Lipovetsky, "Fashion in the West: The Aristocratic Moment", in The Empire‬‬
‫‪of Fashion: Dressing Modern Democracy (Princeton, 1994), 14-54.‬‬
‫‪* Joanne Entwistle, "Theorizing Fashion and Dress" in The Fashioned Body: Fashion,‬‬
‫‪Dress, and Modern Social Theory (Cambridge, 2000), 40-77.‬‬
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* Grant McCracken, “Clothing as Language: An Object Lesson in the Study of the
Expressive Properties of Material Culture” in Culture and Consumption: New
Approaches to the Symbolic Character of Consumer Goods and Activities
(Bloomington and Indianapolis, 1988), 57-70.
* Colin Campbell, "The Meaning of Objects and the Meaning of Actions: A Critical
Note on the Sociology of Consumption and Theories of Clothing", Journal of Material
Culture, 1/1 (1996), 93-105.
* Bj‫ר‬rn Schiermer, "Fashion Victims: On the Individualizing and De-individualizing
Powers of Fashion", Fashion Theory, 14/1 (2010), 83-104.
* Joanne Entwistle, "Fashion, Dress, and Social Change" in The Fashioned Body:
Fashion, Dress, and Modern Social Theory (Cambridge, 2000), 78-111.
* Graeme Murdock, "Dressed To Repress? Protestant Clerical Dress and the
Regulation of Morality in Early Modern Europe", Fashion Theory, 4/2 (2000),
179-199.
* Valentine Groebner, “Inside Out: Clothes, Dissimulation, and the Arts of
Accounting in the Autobiography of Matthaus Schwarz, 1496-1574”,
Representations, 66 (1999), 100-121.
* Antje Stannek, “Vestis Virum Facit: Fashion, Identity, and Ethnography on the
Seventeenth-Century Grand Tour”, Journal of Early Modern History, 7/3-4 (2003),
332-344.
* Peter McNeil & Giorgio Riello, "The Art and Science of Walking: Gender, Space,
and the Fashionable Body in the Long Eighteenth Century", Fashion Theory, 9/2
(2005), 175-204.
* Elisabeth Gernerd, "Pulled Tight and Gleaming: The Stocking’s Position within
Eighteenth-Century Masculinity", Textile History, 46/1 (2015), 3-27.
* Michael Kwass, “Big Hair: A Wig History of Consumption in EighteenthCentury
France”, The American Historical Review, 111/3 (2006), 631-659.
* Desmond Hosford, “The Queen's Hair: Marie-Antoinette, Politics, and DNA”,
Eighteenth-Century Studies, 38/1 (2004), 183-200.
* Catherine M. Sama, “Liberty, Equality, Frivolity! An Italian Critique of Fashion
Periodicals”, Eighteenth-Century Studies, 37/3 (2004), 389-414.
* Julia Petrov, “‘A Strong-Minded American Lady’: Bloomerism in Texts and
Images, 1851”, Fashion Theory, 20/4 (2016), 381-413.
* Robert E. Moore, “‘Indian Dandies’: Sartorial Finesse and Self-Presentation along
the Columbia River, 1790-1855”, Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture,
Susan Fillin-Yeh (ed.), (New York and London, 2001), 59-100.
* Sandra Lee Evenson and David J. Trayte, "Dress and the Negotiation of
Relationship between the Eastern Dakota and Euroamericans in Nineteenth Century
Minnesota", Religion, Dress and the Body, Linda B. Arthur (ed.), (Oxford and New
York, 1999), 95-116.
* Jennifer Craik, "The Cultural Politics of the Uniform", Fashion Theory, 7/2 (2003),
127-147.
* Alison Matthews David, "Decorated Men: Fashioning the French Soldier
1852–1914", Fashion Theory, 7/1 (2003), 3-37.
.143-134 '‫ עמ‬,(1977 ,‫אביב‬-‫ סיפורים )תל‬:‫ מתוך הירושה‬,"‫ "הענק‬,‫* גי דה מופסן‬
* John Berger, "The Suit and the Photograph", Rethinking Popular Culture:
3/6
Contemporary Perspectives in Cultural Studies, Chandra Mukerji and Michael
Schudson (eds.), (Oxford, 1991), 424-431.
Diana Crane, “Working-Class Clothing and the Experience of Social Class in the
Nineteenth Century”, in Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender and Identity
in Clothing (Chicago, 2000), 26-66.
Karen Sayer, "‘A Sufficiency of Clothing’: Dress and Domesticity in Victorian
Britain", Textile History, 33/1 (2002),112-122.
Peter Jones, "Clothing the Poor in Early-Nineteenth-Century England", Textile
History, 37/1 (2006), 17-37.
Danae Tankard, "‘A Pair of Grass-Green Woollen Stockings’: The Clothing of the
Rural Poor in Seventeenth-Century Sussex", Textile History, 43/1 (2012), 5-22.
Victoria L‫ף‬pez Barahona & Jos‫ י‬Nieto S‫ב‬nchez, "Dressing the Poor: The Provision of
Clothing among the Lower Classes in Eighteenth-Century Madrid", Textile History,
43/1 (2012), 23-42.
Sam Smiles, "Defying Comprehension: Resistance to Uniform Appearance in
Depicting the Poor, 1770s to 1830s", Textile History, 33/1 (2002), 22-36.
Brian Maidment, "101 Things to Do with a Fantail Hat: Dustmen, Dirt and
Dandyism, 1820–1860", Textile History, 33/1 (2002), 79-97.
C. M. Jackson-Houlston, "‘The Burial-Place of the Fashions’: The Representation of
the Dress of the Poor in Illustrated Serial Prose by Dickens and Hardy", Textile
History, 33/1 (2002), 98-111.
Christiana Payne,"‘Murillo-like Rags or Clean Pinafores’: Artistic and Social
Preferences in the Representation of the Dress of the Rural Poor", Textile History,
33/1 (2002), 48-62.
Christine Stevens, "Welsh Peasant Dress — Workwear or National Costume?",
Textile History, 33/1 (2002), 63-78.
Jennifer Harris, "The Red Cap of Liberty: A Study of Dress Worn by French
Revolutionary Partisans, 1789-94", Eighteenth-Century Studies, 14/3 (1981),
283-312.
Lynn Hunt, “Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France”, From the Royal to the
Republican Body: Incorporating the Political in Seventeenth and Eighteenth Century
France, Sara E. Melzer and Kathryn Norberg (eds.), (Berkeley, 1998), 224-249.
E. Claire Cage, "The Sartorial Self: Neoclassical Fashion and Gender Identity in
France, 1797-1804", Eighteenth-Century Studies, 42/2 (2009), 193-215.
:‫חומר לקריאה נוספת‬
Barthes, Roland. 1991. Written Clothing. In Rethinking Popular Culture:
Contemporary Perspectives in Cultural Studies, ed. Chandra Mukerji and Michael
Schudson, 432–45. Oxford: University of California Press.
Bell, Quentin. 1976. On Human Finery. New York: Schocken Books.
Benjamin, Walter. 1999. Fashion. In The Arcades Project, 62–81. Cambridge, MA,
and London: The Belknap Press of Harvard University Press.
Berg, Maxine, and Helen Clifford. eds. 1999. Consumer and Luxury: Consumer
4/6
Culture in Europe, 1650-1850. Manchester: Manchester University Press.
The Psychology of Fashion, ed. Michael R. Solomon, 3–14. Lexington, MA: Lexington
Book
Bourdieu, Pierre. 2000. Distinction: A Social Critique of the Judgement of Taste.
London: Routledge.
Breward, Christopher. 1995. The Culture of Fashion. Manchester and New York:
Manchester University Press.
———. 1999. The Hidden Consumer: Masculinities, Fashion and City Life, 1860-1914.
Manchester and New York: Manchester University Press.
Chenut, Helen Harden. 2005. The Fabric of Gender: Working-Class Culture in Third
Republic France. University Park: Pennsylvania University Press.
Craik, Jennifer. 1994. The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion. London:
Routledge.
———. 2003. The Cultural Politics of the Uniform. Fashion Theory 7/2: 127–46.
———. 2005. Uniform Exposed: From Conformity to Transgression. Oxford and New
York: Berg.
Crane, Diana. 2000. Working-Class Clothing and the Experience of Social Class in
the Nineteenth Century. In Fashion and its Social Agendas: Class, Gender and
Identity in Clothing, 26–66. Chicago: Chicago University Press.
Material Culture in Social Worlds: Values, Activities, Lifestyles, 85–109. Buckingham
and Philadelphia. 1999
Eicher, Joanne B., and Ellen Roach-Higgins. 1993. Definitions and Classifications of
Dress: Implications for Analysis of Gender Roles. In Dress and Gender: Making and
Meaning in Cultural Contexts, ed. Ruth Barnes and Joanne B. Eicher, 7–28.
Providence, RI: Berg.
Eicher, Joanne B., and Barbara Sumberg. 1995."World Fashion, Ethnic, and National
Fashion. In Dress and Ethnicity, ed. Joanne B. Eicher, 295–306. Oxford and Herndon,
VA: Berg.
Finnane, Antonia. 2008. Changing Clothes in China: Fashion, History, Nation. New
York: Columbia University Press.
Fussell, Paul. 2002. Uniforms: Why We Are What We Wear. Boston and New York:
Haughton Mifflin.
Gordenker, Emilie E. S. 2001. Anthony Van Dyck (1599-1641) and the
Representation of Dress in Seventeenth-Century Portraiture (Turnhout, Belgium:
Brepols.
Ilg, Ulrike. 2004. The Cultural Significance of Costume Books in Sixteenth-Century
Europe. In Clothing Culture, 1350-1650, ed. Catherine Richardson, 29–47, Aldershot
and Burlington, VT: Ashgate.
Kuchta, David. 1996. The Making of the Self-Made Man: Class, Clothing, and English
Masculinity, 1688-1832. In The Sex of Things: Gender and Consumption in Historical
Perspective, ed. Victoria de Grazia with Ellen Furlough, 54–78. Berkeley: University
of California Press.
Mansel, Philip. 2005. Dressed to Rule: Royal and Court Costume from Louis XIV to
Elizabeth II. New Haven, CT, and London: Yale University Press.
Mason, Roger. 1998. The Economics of Conspicuous Consumption: Theory and
Thought since 1700. Cheltenham and Northampton, MA: Edward Elgar.
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Purdy, Daniel L. 1998. The Tyranny of Elegance: Consumer Cosmopolitanism in the
Era of Goethe. Baltimore, MD: Johns Hopkins University Press.
Ribeiro, Aileen. 1988. Fashion in the French Revolution. New York: Holmes and
Meier.
Roche, Daniel. 1994. The Culture of Clothing: Dress and Fashion in the "Ancien
Regime". Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
———. 2000. Ordinary Consumption and Luxury Consumption. In A History of
Everyday Things: The Birth of Consumption in France, 1600-1800, 54–78.
Cambridge: Cambridge University Press.
Shannon, Brent. 2006. The Cut of His Coat: Men, Dress, and Consumer Culture in
Britain, 1860-1914. Athens, OH: Ohio University Press.
Simmel, George. 1997. Fashion, Adornment and Style. In Simmel on Culture, ed.
David Frisby and Mike Featherstone, 187–217. London: Sage.
Steele, Valerie. 1985. Fashion and Eroticism: Ideals of Feminine Beauty from the
Victorian Era to the Jazz Age. New York and Oxford: Oxford University Press.
———. 1996. Fetish, Fashion, Sex and Power. New York and Oxford: Oxford University
Press.
- Styles, John. 2007. The Dress of the People: Everyday Fashion in Eighteenth
Century England. New Haven and London: Yale University Press.
Fabrications: Costume and the Female Body, ed. Jane Gaines and Charlotte
Herzog,. New York and London: Routledge. 1990
Zdatny, Steven. 2006. Fashion, Work, and Politics in Modern France. New York:
Palgrave Macmillan.
:‫ הרכב הציון הסופי‬- ‫הערכת הקורס‬
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