TLE 7/8 (Dressmaking) Quarter 1 LEARNER’S MATERIAL Republic Act 8293, section 176 states that: No copyright shall subsist in any work of the Government of the Philippines. However, prior approval of the government agency or office wherein the work is created shall be necessary for exploitation of such work for profit. Such agency or office may, among other things, impose as a condition the payment of royalties. Borrowed materials (i.e., songs, stories, poems, pictures, photos, brand names, trademarks, etc.) included in this book are owned by their respective copyright holders. Every effort has been exerted to locate and seek permission to use these materials from their respective copyright owners. The publisher and authors do not represent nor claim ownership over them. This module was carefully examined and revised in accordance with the standards prescribed by the DepEd Region 4A and Curriculum and Learning Management Division CALABARZON . All parts and sections of the module are assured not to have violated any rules stated in the Intellectual Property Rights for learning standards. The Editors PIVOT 4A CALABARZON TLE (Dressmaking) Grade 7/8 Schools Division Office Management Team: Elpidia Bergado, Noel Ortega, Belen B. Sabalas, Clarissa B. Amulong, Andres B. Sabalas TLE-Dressmaking Grade 7/8 PIVOT IV-A Learner’s Material Quarter 1 First Edition, 2020 Published by: Department of Education Region IV-A CALABARZON Identifying Sewing Tools and Equipment and Their Uses I Lesson In every task or activity you should be familiar with the needed tools and equipment. This is necessary for you to perform well and to be productive. And when you encounter problems in performing the task you already know you can use such tools to fix it and avoid work disruptions. It is very important to know the different tools and equipment in sewing. Sewing tools are those which don’t require the use of electricity. There are tools that are used manually by hand and there are also equipment that would be heavy items such as sewing machine itself. Tool is a device or implement, especially one held in the hand, used to carry out a particular function. Equipment are materials, devices, and appliances that are used as a part of, or in connection with an electrical installation. Sewing Kit is small package containing items such as needles and thread that you need to sew. Sewing Equipment—those are more complicated tool, it provides to carry out particular function or process D Sewing Machine is a machine used to sew fabric and materials together with thread. Sewing machine were invented during the first industrial revolution to decrease the amount of manual sewing performed clothing companies. The sewing machine was created in September 10, 1846. It was used for making blankets, and clothing. It is made sewing much easier and faster. The sewing machine greatly impacted the textile industry and women. This is allowed clothing to become mass produced item which increased the social acceptance of the sewing machine. Besides the commercial sewing machine, the household machine became very popular when it became electric. The sewing tools and equipment categorize into; Marking tools, cutting tools, and sewing tools. SEWING TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1. Measuring Tools L-square. It divides the garment into the desired measurement. It is perfect squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers. Tape measure. It is used in taking body measurements. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by professional dressmakers. Yardstick. It is used for general marking and for measuring fabric grainline when laying out the pattern. Ruler. It is used for general marking. It aids in connecting l lines. Seam gauge. This measuring tool helps make quick, accurate measurements for hems, buttonholes, scallops and pleats. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 4 Hip curve. This tool is used in connecting and shaping curve points. French curve. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and armhole of the pattern. 2. Cutting Tools Trimming scissors. Five to six inch long which are for clipping threads Cutting shears. These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics. Seam ripper. Hook quickly rips seams, opens buttonholes and removes stitches. This should be used carefully to avoid piercing the fabric. Pinking shears / scalloping shears. This is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes. This is used to finish seams and raw edges or many types of fabric. Thread clipper. It is used for snipping threads Stitch ripper. This is smaller than seam ripper, and it can cut stitches close to the fabric. Embroidery scissor. It has 4-5 inches finely tapered blades. Both points are sharp for use in working with fine details in delicate fabrics and in embroidery work. Leather shears. These are used for cutting leather and suede. It has heavy serrated edge. Rotary cutter. It is an adaptation of the giant rotary cuter used by the garment industry. It works like a pizza cutter and can be used by left or right-handed sewers. The rotary cutter is available in different sizes with different blades. When using a rotary cutter, work on a cutting mat to protect the blade and the cutting surface. Bent-handled dressmaker’s shears. These are made of quality steel and hold a sharp cutting edge. The blades move easily and cut smoothly along the entire length and the points should come together. Shears have the length of 7- 12 inches and are satisfactory for most apparel fabrics. 1. All steels, chrome-plated shears are for heavy duty cutting 2. Stainless steel blades and plastic handles are fine for lightweight fabrics 3. A serrated edge shears, give maximum cutting control and is used for synthetic fibers and slippery knits 3. Marking Tools T a il or’s c ha lk . T h is is ess ent ial a s a m ar k er fo r us e on m at er ia ls. Ta ilor ’s c h a lk is ava ila b le in a r an g e of co lors a nd is r emov ed b y b r us hin g. D r essm a ke r’s pe n cil. T h is is av ailab le in w h it e or pa st el s ha d es. T h is c ha lk p en c il is used to ma k e f in e lin es o n fa b r ic. I t has an er as ing b r us h a t o n e en d . T ra ci ng w he el. I t is a saw -t ooth w ith a s ha r p p o in t. Th is to o l is u s ed t o t ra nsf er pat t ern ma rk in gs to t h e wr o ng s id e of t h e f ab r ic. T h is is us ed w it h t he dr essma k er’ s ca rb o n p a p er . D r essm a ke r’s ca rb o n pa pe r. Th is t yp e of t rac ing p ap er is a va ila b le in a n um b er of c o lo rs in c lud ing w h it e, r ed, a n d b lu e. It is u s ed in ma rk ing a ll ty p es of fa b r ic in co mb ina t io n w it h a tr ac ing w h eel. T h is w or k is b est o n p la n e, f lat - su rf ac ed fa br ic s. L i qu id Ma r ki ng P e n. T h is is f elt -t i p l iq u i d m ar k i ng p en . Ma rks m ay disa pp ear aft er 4 8 h o urs , a n d t h e ot h er wa sh es o ut. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 5 4. Sewing Tools Pins - they hold pattern pieces in place, anchor seam allowances as you sew, fit fabric on the body, and secure all sorts of squirmy trims, delicate sequins, and miniscule beads. Pin cushion – It is used to keep pins and needles when not in use. Thimble- A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger that pushes the needle in sewing. Sewing Needle Threader - It aids in putting the thread to the needle. Sewing Machine Needle. Sewing machine needles are graded according to diameter and length. In the sys tem of sewing machine needle sizes, the needles for the 96-87 machine are of a class and variety known as 16 x 231 and are furnished in sizes 14, 16, 17, 18, 19, 21, 22, and 23 . Hand Needle - It used for hand-sewing, is a long slender tool with a pointed tip at one end and a hole (or eye) at the other. The earliest needles were made of bone or wood; modern needles are manufactured from high carbon steel wire and are nickel. Classification of Sewing Machine Based on Machine Type Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good results. It should be used correctly in accordance with the job requirements. 1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is usually used in homes and sometimes in school and also called “Domestic Sewing Machine”. It is run by foot and may also be converted to electric power machine. 2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine. This is sometimes called ‘straight stitching machine” or industrial sewing machine. It has automatic lubrication and is used by tailors and dressmakers. 3. Over Edging Machine. Other companies call it “small machine”. It finishes the raw edges of the pattern for construction. 4. Embroidery Machine. This is used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics for the Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and other novelty items. 5. Button Holer Machine. This is used in making buttonholes on garments. 6. Button Attachment Machine. This is used in attaching buttons to the garments. 7. Double Needle Machine. This is used in the construction of the different kinds of clothing especially for the inseam, out seam and side seam. 8. Bartacking Machine. This is used in reinforcing the opening and closing of pockets and plackets of garments PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 6 Sou Two Major Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine The two major parts of the lock stitch sewing machine are the Upper and Lower parts. The Upper Parts is composed of: 1. Head is the complete sewing machine without a cabinet or stand. 2. Arm is the curve part of the head containing mechanism for operating the needle. 3. Bed is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the feed dog where it is mounted, and the shuttle and lower thread are placed. Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm 1. Spool Pin is the thread holder. 2. Thread Guide keeps the thread in position. 3. Thread Take up Lever releases the thread and interlocks with the bobbin thread. 4. Presser bar lifter moves the presser foot high. 5. Tension controls the looseness and tightness of stitches. 6. Needle Bar holds the needle in place. 7. Needle Clamp holds and tightens the needle. 8. Presser Foot holds the fabric in place while sewing. 9. Needle is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp used for sewing. 10. Bobbin Winder controls the bobbin while winding thread. 11. Stitch regulator checks the length of the stitches. 12. Balance Wheel sets the mechanism in motion. 13. Belt connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel. 14. Stop Motion Screw hinders moving when loosened and starts moving when tightened. 12 3 2 1 10 4 5 6 11 7 9 14 13 8 PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 7 Parts of Sewing Machine under the Bed 1. Feed Dog moves the fabric while sewing. 2. Throat plate is the windows of the feed dog and it is where the bobbin threads come out. 3. Slide plate is a movable plate that covers the shuttle and bobbin case. 4. Shuttle holds the bobbin case while sewing. 5. Bobbin is a metal spool for winding thread. 6. Bobbin Case holds the bobbin. Learning Task 1: Analyze the sentence below. Choose your answer on the box below. Write your answer in your quiz notebook. 1. When you make a mistake in sewing, what essential tool might you need? 2. One way to finish a seam and keep the fabric from raveling is to trim them with what special type of shears? 3. What sewing tool is used to hold the fabric together temporarily? 4. What part of sewing machine that holds the fabric while sewing? 5. What kind of machine that makes sewing easier and faster? Pins Presser Foot Running stitch Pinking Shears Needle Seam ripper Sewing Machine E Learning Task 2: Crossword Puzzle. Write in the crossword puzzle the term being described by the statements below. 1. This is used to as a marker on the materials 2. It is essential in sewing. 3. This is use as device for particular process with powered by electricity. 4. It is used in inserting thread to the needle. 1 2 3 4 PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 8 Learning Task 3 : Identify the numbered parts of Lock stitch sewing Machine. Write your answer on your paper. Learning Task 4: Identify the parts of Hi-Speed lockstitch sewing machine and write function of each parts. 3 1 2 4 6 5 7 A Learning Task 5: Read the statements and select the letter of the correct answer. Write the letter on you answer sheet. 1. These are used for cutting leather and suede. It has heavy serrated edge. a. rotary cutter b. pinking shear c. seam ripper d. leather shear 2. The equipment that makes sewing easier and faster is _________. a. electric iron b. iron board c. sewing machine d. working table 3. The size of sewing machine needle used for general sewing is __________. a. 10 b. 12 c. 14 d. 16 4. A machine that is run by foot which may also be converted to electric power machine is known as __________. a. hemmer machine b. high speed over edger c. lockstitch machine d. over edging machine 5. It is a cutting tool with one handle larger than the other handle. a. leather shear b. seam ripper c. cutting shears d. seam ripper 6. It is 3 – 4 inches long and is used for trimming and clipping threads and snipping slashes a. trimming scissors b. buttonhole scissors PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 9 7. This cutting tool is popular in zigzagging or scalloped edge or for seam finishes a. rotary cutter b. pinking shear c. seam ripper d. leather shear 8. It is used to keep pins and needles when not in use. a. Pins b pincushion c. sewing kit d. emery bag 9. It is used for general marking and for measuring fabric grainline when laying out the pattern. a. ruler b. meter stick c. tape measure d. Yard stick 10. A machine used in making fancy stitches and in making different kinds of embroidery stitches on fabrics is _____________. a. button oler machine b. double needle machine c. embroidery machine d. lockstitch sewing machine Learning Task 6: Match the types of the sewing machines from Column A with their descriptions in Column B. Write the letter of the correct answer in your notebook. COLUMN A COLUMN B _____1. It aids in putting the thread to the needle. A. French Curve _____ 2. A small hard pitted cup worn for protection on the finger. B. Thread Clipper _____3. This is used to shape the depth of the neck hole and armhole of the pattern. _____4. It is a saw-tooth with a sharp point. C. Needle Threader D. Thimble E. Tracing Wheel _____5. It is used for snipping threads. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 10 Obtaining Measurements I Lesson This lesson provides varied and relevant activities and opportunities to determine your understanding of the key concepts and to demonstrate core competencies on the following: 1. Take accurate body measurements 2. Read and record required measurements 3. Apply the systems of measurements. 4. Perform simple calculations based on job requirement. 5. Demonstrates accurate reading measurements 6. Assess the appropriateness of design based on client’s features. 7. Read specifications 8. Apply the principles of design, color and harmonies. The pictures below show how to measure different body parts. Proper tool is essential in taking correct body measurement. Parts of body to be measured can be taken in: Horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the figure to the right. Vertical measurement is taken from the top of the body figure to its base. Circumferential measurement is taken around the body. Examples: Neck - Loosely measure around the circumference at the base of your neck. Bust - Lift your arms to the side. Measure around your body crossing over the fullest part of your bust. (The tape measure must run directly over your nipples and across your shoulder blades on your back). Bust to Bust - Measure from your one nipple to your other nipple. Upper Bust - Measure around the torso directly above the bust line. From armhole to armhole +- 8cm down from neck. Lower Bust - Measure around the torso directly under the bustline Waist - Measure around the waist at the narrowest natural waistline point, allowing 2 fingers between your waist and tape measure. Hips - Measure around the fullest part of your hips. As a guide, this is often 20cm below your natural waistline. Stand with your knees together. Shoulder to Bust - Measure from tip of the shoulder to the centre of bust (nipple). Front Shoulder to Waist - Measure from tip of shoulder over bust to natural waistline. Shoulder to Shoulder - Measure across the back of neck from socket of one shoulder to socket of the other shoulder. Shoulder to Neck - Measure from base of neck along top of shoulder to the shoulder socket. Down Center Back - Measure from nape of neck to natural waist. Back Shoulder to Waist - Measure from tip of shoulder to natural waist line. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 11 Across Back - Measure from armhole across back to armhole positioning tape measure + - 8cm down from nape of neck. Full Back - Measure from side seam, under armpits to side seam across back, positioning tape measure +- 4cm down under armpit. Sleeve Hole - Measure around the shoulder under the armpit. Bicep - Measure around the fullest part of the upper arm. Elbow - Do a fairly loose measurement around the bent elbow. Over Arm - Measure from outer shoulder socket on outside of arm, with a bent arm, to the wrist. Side Seam - Measure from under armpit to natural waistline down. Over Arm - Measure from outer shoulder socket on outside of arm, with a bent arm, to the wrist. Upper Arm – Measure from the outer shoulder socket on outside of arm to crook of elbow. There are 2 units of measure that can be used to get body measure. The Metric System, that uses, millimeter, centimeter and meter. The other is the English System of measure like, inches, feet or yard. The metric system is an internationally agreed decimal system of measurement created in France in 1799. The International System of Units (SI), is the official system of measurement in almost every country in the world, is based upon the metric system. The units of measurement commonly used in dressmaking are meters, centimeters and millimeters. You can convert Metric unit of measure to English unit of measure. CONVERSION GUIDE Use this conversion guide to From To Multiply by Inch Centimeter 2.54 Centimeter Inch 0.393701 Feet Centimeter 30.48 Centimeter Feet 0.0328084 Yard Meter 0.9144 Meter Yard 1.09361 Inch Feet 0.08333333 Foot Inch 12 Foot Yard 0.333333 Yard Feet 3 Inch Yard 0.0277778 Solution: From feet to centimeter multiply the given by 30.48 Yard Inch 36 5 x 30.48 = 152.4 Millimeter Centimeter 0.1 Centimeter Millimeter 10 Centimeter Meter 0.01 Meter Centimeter 100 Examples: 1. Convert 100 centimeter to inches. Solution: From centimeter to inches, multiply the given by 0.393701. 100 x 0.393701 = 39.73 inches ( rounded to 2 decimal places) Therefore 100 cm = 39.73 inches 2. Convert 5 feet to centimeter. Therefore 5 feet = 152.4 cm PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 12 Learning Task 1: Identify whether the following are vertical measurements, horizontal measurements or circumferential measurements. Draw for F horizontal, for vertical and for circumferencial. 1. Bust 6. Upper Arm 11. Shoulder to Bust 16. Bicep 2. Upper Bust 7. Side Seam 12. Front Shoulder to Waist 17. Sleeve hole 3. Lower Bust 8. Over Arm 13. Shoulder to shoulder 18. Full Back 4. Waist 9. Under Arm 14. Shoulder to neck 19. Across back 5. Hips 10. Elbow 15. Down Center Back 20. Back Shoulder to Waist D Learning Task 2: Using the chart below and your tape measure, take and record your own body measurements. Use inch as the unit of measure. Bust Upper Arm Front Shoulder to Waist Sleeve Hole Upper Bust Side Seam Shoulder to Shoulder Full Back Lower Bust Over Arm Shoulder to Neck Across Back Waist Under Arm Down Center Back Back Shoulder to Waist Hips Elbow Bicep Shoulder to Bust PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 13 E Learning Task 3: Using the illustration below, record the body measurement and convert the measurement from inches to centimeters. Body Parts English System (Inch) Metric System (cm) Body Parts Neck Waist Shoulder to Bust Bicep Neck to Shoulder Elbow Shoulder to Waist Under Arm Hips Sleeve Hole English System (Inch) Metric System (cm) A Learning Task 4: Convert the following and show your solutions. How many.. Are there in.. Inch/es answers How many.. Are there in.. 500 cm Centimeter/s 120 meters Foot/Feet 40 cm Yard/s 15 inches Meter/s 12 yards Meter/s 120 centimeters Yard/s 20 meters Inch/es 500 centimeters Inch/es 12 feet Centimeter/s 5 feet answers PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 14 Principles of Designs and Colors I Lesson Principles and Elements of design will greatly help you to determine the outfits good for you. First things first, you have to identify the types of our body. The personality of the wearer shows the kind of image she/he projects. Personalities differ depending on the kind of clothing people wear. Introvert persons prefer clothes of simple yet classical cut with pastel or light colors. Extrovert persons are creative, artistic, expressive and energetic. They prefer clothing that is comfortable, attractive and fashionable. They can wear all kinds of clothing of varied style, colors and design with confidence. In this lesson you will be able to assess the appropriateness of design based on the clients’ features and read specification and apply the principle of design and color harmonies. Principles of Design BALANCE From the centered of the dress, design should be identified on both sides ●Symmetrical or the formal balance –having equal "weight" on equal sides of a centrally placed like a see saw. This is an easy way of balancing but lends monotony to the design. ●Asymmetrical or the informal balance –The structure decoration and accessories are different both sides from the center of the design. ●Radial the design are at equal distance from a central point;A man wearing a sun design on the front of his shirt may have this kind of design. RHYTHM These are smooth movement lines repeated again and again. It is created by repeated use of the design. If there is rhythm in a design, the eye would move easily from one part to the other EMPHASIS Every pleasing design has one part that is more interesting than any other. The center of interest. HARMONY It is the blending of all components of design. When the structural lines, decorative lines, colors and accessories all relate to each other comfortably, harmony results PROPORTION The pleasing relationship of all parts of the object with one another. Proportion refers to the relative size and scale of the various elements in a design. The issue is the relationship between objects, or parts, of a whole. ELEMENTS OF DESIGN 1. Line creates a visual dimension of length and width. When lines meet, space is enclosed and a shape is defined. Lines direct the eyes to a certain path of vision, or it can draw the eyes away from an undesirable area of the body. There are two kinds of lines in garments: A. The Directional line such as vertical, horizontal, diagonal, checkered, broken and curved. These affect the height and size of an individual. Lines are serving as clothing designs like the art of printing flowers, dots and others on fabric. B. Structural lines are found on necklines, armholes, hemlines, darts, side seams, sleeves, collars, tucks and pleats of garments. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 15 2. Color is a radiant energy loosely termed light that produces sensation in our eyes. COLOR THEORY The first thing you usually notice about clothes or anything is their color. Before you start studying which colors look best together, you should learn the meaning of color terms and the rules that apply to colors. The Color Wheel Primary Colors – red, blue and yellow. Secondary Colors – are produced when mixing two equal amount of primary colors. Look at the color wheel you will find these colors – orange, green and violet. Intermediate Colors – are produced by mixing two equal amount of primary and secondary colors. Pure Colors – are the primary, secondary and intermediate colors because they have no white, black and gray in them. Pure colors are also called ―normal, true and basic colors‖. Tints – when pure colors are mixed with white, they are made lighter. Shades – when pure colors are mixed with black, they are made darker. Grayed colors – most colors we used in clothes are grayed colors rather than bright, pure colors you see on the color wheel. Neutrals – are white, black and gray. They look well with another and with all other colors. The more grayed colors becomes, the more different colors it will harmonize with. yellow-green, while olives are dull yellow green. COLOR SCHEMES 1. One-color harmony (monochromatic color) – the easiest color scheme to follow is one that uses the same color in different values and intensity. Example, dark blue suit with very dark blue accessories and a light blue blouse. 2. Adjacent color harmony (analogous color harmony) -Since they are near each other on the color wheel, neighbor color harmony. Example, yellow-orange, orange and yellow green are next to each other on the color wheel. 3. Complementary Color Harmony – these are colors that are opposite in the color wheel. a. Complementary colors – directly opposite in the color wheel. Example, red and green, blue and orange b. Split complementary colors – a variation of the complementary color scheme. In addition to the base color, it uses the two colors adjacent to its complement. c. Triad - A triadic color scheme uses colors that are evenly spaced around the color wheel. Triadic color harmonies tend to be quite vibrant, even if you use. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 16 Female Body Shape Apple body shape traits: Hips and shoulders have the same width; waistline has the same width or is wider. You gain weight mainly around the waist, at least in proportion to the other parts of your body. You probably have slender lower legs and arms. Your high hip is wider than your lower hip. Your bust and/or midriff are larger than your hips. You might be short-waisted. Your thighs or hips are probably the narrowest part of your body. Pear body shape traits (Triangular): Your hips are wider than your shoulders. You have round, sloping shoulders. You have a well-defined waistline (and might even have killer abs). Your buttocks and thighs are full and round. Pear body shapes gain weight on their thighs. Male Body Shape Your hips and shoulders have about the same width. You have round and sloping shoulders. You have a well-defined waistline. Your lower hips are wider than your high hips. Your thighs are full but narrower than the lower hips. Hourglass body shapes gain weight through the hips and above the waist. Rectangle body shape traits: Your hips, waistline and shoulders have about the same width. Rectangles gain weight evenly, but may gain some more through the upper back or neck. You have rather straight shoulders. Your buttocks are flat. You have an athletic build and a small bustline. Inverted body shape traits: You have prominent and broad straight shoulders — wider than your waistline or hips. You have an athletic build. You might have a larger chest and fuller back than rectangles. D Learning Task 1: The following are the lists of principles and elements of design. Classify whether it is a principle or an element. Draw a if it is principle and a if it is an element. CLASSIFICATION CLASSIFICATION 1. BALANCE 5. PROPORTION 2. RHYTHM 6. LINE 3. EMPHASIS 7. COLOR 4. HARMONY PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 17 Learning Task 2: Each body have different shapes. Look carefully, compare then try to guess their body shape. E Learning Task 3: Draw an outfit designed for yourself. Identify the body shape that you have. Sketch a design of dress/clothes that will fit on your body shapes. Apply the principles of design and color harmonies. A Learning Task 3: Match Column A (Principles of design) to Column B (description). A B 1. BALANCE A. These are smooth movement lines repeated again and again. It is created by repeated use of the design. 2. EMPHASIS B. It is the blending of all components of design. 3. RHYTHM C. From the centered of the dress, design should be identified on both sides 4. HARMONY D. Every pleasing design has one part that is more interesting than any other. The center of interest 5. PROPORTION E. The pleasing relationship of all parts of the object with one another Proportion refers to the relative size and scale of the various elements in a design. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 18 Proper Maintenance of Sewing Machine I Lesson A sewing machine like any piece of equipment, needs some care and cleaning. Keep it dusted and lubricated at least once a week or more often if the machine is in constant use. Sewing machine requires basic maintenance of cleaning, oiling, and lubricating. You must be familarized with the following terms in taking care of sewing machine Adjust – change present setting as in adjusting tensions. Entangle - forming knots like thread entangled in the bobbin case. Lift – moving upward as in a presser foot lifter . Replace – putting something new in the place of an old or damaged part. Pucker – wrinkling of fabric caused by very tight stitches. Lubricant – a material capable of reducing friction when applied between moving parts. Lubricate – the act of applying a lubricating agent between moving parts to reduce friction and preventing the form of rust. Proper Handling and Cleaning the Sewing Machine For a machine to perform well, it should be well taken cared of. A. General Cleaning As you clean the machine, it is best to clean one area at a time. Remove only the parts that are involved and be sure to note where each part is from, and its correct position. Here are the steps: 1. Prepare the needed tools and supplies in cleaning the sewing machine. Cleaning tools and materials includes: Quality oil, lint brush dry paint brush screw drivers, pen and record notebook, cotton buds (optional). 2. Remove the needle if there is any. This will prevent the cleaner from pricking fingers during the cleaning process. Parts needed to be cleaned 1. Face plate (presser bar, needle bar, thread take up lever, lifter). Unscrew face plate and keep it in the drawer while cleaning. Brush dust away then put a little amount of oil while rotating the balance wheel so inner parts can be accessed. Put back the face plate in place. 2. Upper Tension (disc spring and dial). Remove outer bolt, tension dial, discs and disc spring. Lay each part in your front table following its disassembling for easier assembling. Brush dust and wipe with absorbent cloth with oil. Assemble by following the laid parts in your table. 3. Lower Mechanism ( rotary oscillating hook ) Remove bobbin case. Fasten sides of oscillating hook. Remove dust with lint brush. Put a little amount of machine oil on moving parts. Return spare parts in place. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 19 Classifications of Sewing Machine Troubles There are two classifications of sewing machine troubles, namely: 1. Minor sewing machine trouble. This refers to problems that arise involving incorrectly attached accessories or supplies, unadjusted tensions, or that requires a little dusting or oiling. 2. Major sewing machine trouble. This involves replacing or removing damage spare parts that made the sewing machine not totally functioning. SEWING MACHINE PROBLEMS AND REMEDIES In the previous lessons, you have learned the basics in sewing machine operations. This is now the time to apply your skills in giving corrective measures for identified problems in your machine. Let us review the sewing machine troubles and how to treat them. PROBLEMS Skipped Stitches Thread Breaks Needle Break Seams Pucker Machine Jams CHECK REMEDIES 1. Type of needle may be wrong for the fabric 2. Stitch length may be too long. 3. Condition of the needle may be dull or bent 4. Machine threading may be incorrect 5. Needle position may be wrong Change the needle with the 1. Size of needle too big or too small 2. Type of thread too thin, knotted, or uneven 3. Type of needle maybe wrong for the fabric 4. Machine threading may be incorrect 5. Tension may be too tight. 1. Tension may be too tight 2. Needle position may be wrong 3. Presser foot may not be tight. 4. Fabric – may have too many layers or may be too thick 1. 2. 3. 4. Tension may be too tight Needle may be too big or dull Thread may be too coarse Stitch length may be too long Loosen tension screw Replace the needle Change the thread with 1.Bobbin threading may be incorrect. 2. Thread may be knotted or too coarse 3. Bobbin case threads may catch thread Rewind thread to bobbin correct size Adjust the stitch length to standard size Replace the needle with a new one Thread the machine properly Set the needle properly Change the needle with the correct size Change thread with the correct type Change the needle with the correct type Thread the machine properly Adjust tension then check stitches Adjust the tension and test stitches Set the needle properly Tighten the presser foot Adjust pressure on the presser foot correct thickness Adjust stitch regulator to Entangle thread or change thread Remove caught threads from PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 20 Health and Safety Procedure in Sewing Machine Maintenance Cleaning and lubricating a sewing machine is quite a messy task. Therefore, personal care should be observed during this activity. The following health and safety precautions should be practiced at the shop or at home. 1. Wear personal protective equipment. This prevents your clothing from being tarnished by oil and dirt. Be sure to wear gloves to avoid accumulation of oil and dirt in your nails and palms. (Wearing of protective eye glasses is optional). 2. Remove the upper belt or turn power off (for powered sewing machine) before oiling the sewing machine. 3. When a chemical or small spare parts get into your eyes, call the attention of your teacher at once. 4. Do not remove any safety device from any machine. 5. Be sure that all screws are well-tightened before starting the machine. 6. Make sure that no screws or tools are left on the floor to avoid slipping. 7. Wipe dry spilled oils on the floor to avoid accidents. 8. Assign colored tags for a newly maintained sewing machine. This will make the user be aware of its present condition. MAINTAINING RECORDS OF SEWING MACHINE Recording is very important because it provides solutions to a problem, gives information for tracing the trend to the source. It gives information on consistently unsatisfactory machines, and it also provides vital information for without it, it’s impossible to know the situation at any given time and so make sound decisions Record Matrix A record matrix form is a form to be completed after setting the machine. It may involve adjustments on the stitch length, tension and attachments included in the accomplishment of the project/activity to be done. Contents of the Record Matrix 1. Date – the day when the sewing machine is set. 2. Project Title – correct name / agreed name of the project. Date July 14, 2008 Project Title Straight Stitching ADJUSTMENTS AND ATTACHMENTS Upper Tension Stitch Setting Thread Use No. of Needle 5 10-8 Polyester Thread 14 Remarks Students Good Joanne Zartiga PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 21 E Learning Activity 2 Answer the following questions based on your own understanding about the lesson.( at least 50 words each). Write your answer on your answer sheet. 1.Why is there a need to put oil on slots after dusting the sewing machine? 2. How do we classify sewing machine troubles? Learning Activity 3: JUMBLED LETTERS Rearrange the letters in column A and write the Correct word that corresponds to the given description in column B. Write the correct word on your activity notebook. A. B. 1. NSTEION a. Tighten and loosen the stitches 2. SENGSWITSOLO b. This is essential in cleaning and lubricating the sewing machine 3. THOCLDPMA c. It is a cloth applied with moisture on water 4. HURBS d. It is used in wiping dust in cleaning the Sewing machine. 5. ROSEBANTB e. a material property that sucks-up or takes -in the manner of sponge A Learning Task 4: Create Educational Infographics Plan and create a Poster about the safety procedures in maintenance of sewing machine. Your output will be evaluated using the given rubrics. Rubrics Originality 25 % Creativity 25 % Content 30 % Over all Impact 20 PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 22 Hazards and Risks in the Workplace I Lesson Workplace Health and Safety are important factors in any sewing industry either in hand sewing, using a sewing machine or even both an electrical or a manual sewing machine. Employees/individuals encounter several risk factors, such as awkward arm, neck, trunk, leg postures and back pains. Safety measures have to be taken seriously especially when sharp pointed objects are used such as, scissors, tacking pins, needles, and other equipment. Sewing involves lots of opportunities for injury. Some of these are obvious, but some are less so. Sewers can injure their bodies in almost imperceptible ways. Taking basic precautions will reduce the risk of injury in the sewing room. D A hazard is any source of potential damage, harm or adverse health effects on something or someone under certain conditions at work. Risk is the chance or probability that a person will be harmed or experience an adverse health effect if exposed to a hazard. It may also apply to situations with property or equipment loss Hazards in sewing Hazards that may be encountered when conducting sewing activities include: Cut and injuries from sharp edges, knife blades, scissors and pins. Holding the wrist in awkward position while cutting with scissors cause injury to the wrist. Finger injuries while sewing. Low back injury from poor posture. Eye strain from poor lighting. Back injury from improper lifting procedures 1 E Learning Task1: Formulate me. Answer the following questions. 1. How you are going to differentiate hazards and risks? A Learning Task 2: Reflection How important to you learning about this module on dressmaking.? Will this help you as a person? PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 23 Reference K to 12 Basic Education Curriculum Technology and Livelihood. PIVOT 4A CALABARZON 24 For inquiries or feedback, please write or call: Department of Education Region 4A CALABARZON Office Address: Gate 2, Karangalan Village, Cainta, Rizal Landline: 02-8682-5773, locals 420/421 Email Address: lrmd.calabarzon@deped.gov.ph