Chapter 24 Outline Facial Makeup
I. Introduction
The field of makeup artistry is a very rewarding segment of cosmetology. Makeup artists who
master a wide range of application methods are able to build a loyal following of diverse clients.
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The makeup application techniques you employ will vary as greatly as the skin types and
personalities of your clients.
In the salon setting, many clients request a makeup application that enhances the best
features while minimizing those that are less desirable.
Ultimately, the goal of effective makeup application is to enhance the client’s
individuality, rather than offering a ‘make-over’ based on some ideal standard.
II. Describe Facial Makeup and Their Uses
A. FOUNDATION
Foundation, also known as base makeup, is a flesh-toned cosmetic used to minimize the
appearance of skin imperfections. It is used to cover or even out skin coloring, conceal
minor imperfections of the skin, and protect the skin from climate, dirt, and debris. It is
available in liquid, stick, and cream forms. The newest trend is mineral powder makeup.
• Primer: Primer is used to help disguise less than perfect skin. It is applied to the skin
prior to foundation to help cancel out or disguise skin discoloration.
1. Foundation chemistry: Most liquid and cream forms of makeup contain a base
mixture of water and oil spreading agents that contain a significant amount of
talc and various color agents called pigments. Often a foundation will contain
aluminum or some other drying agent to help the product set quickly when
applied to the skin to produce a matte, non-shiny finish.
a. Liquid: This is a water-based foundation made up of mostly water and
emollients such as mineral oil or a silicone such as cyclomethicone. Some
may contain alcohol or drying agents. The mixture of water and oil helps
apply the makeup color agents evenly.
b. Oil-free: Intended for oilier skin types; read labels to ensure it has been
tested for oily and acne-prone skin. Be sure to check the ingredients to
ensure the product can be considered noncomedogenic, meaning it does
not contain ingredients that would clog the follicles, aggravating acneprone skin.
c. Cream: Known as oil-based and thicker than liquid; they provide
heavier coverage. They are usually intended for dry skin types and are
not recommended for oily or acneic skin.
2. Concealers: Concealers are used to hide dark eye circles and cover blemishes
and discolorations. They are available in tins, jars, or tubes with wands.
B. FACE POWDERs
Face powder is used to create a matte or non-shiny finish. It is used to set the
foundation, making it easier to apply other powders, such as blush or bronzer.
1. Loose and pressed powder: Comes in two forms: loose and pressed. Both are a
mixture of talc or cornstarch with color pigments added. Loose powder and
pressed powder have the same basic composition.
a. Pressed powder: Pressed powders are compressed and held together
with binders such as zinc stearate. Some are considered translucent.
C. EYE SHADOW
Eye shadows are cosmetics used to accentuate the eye shape and compliment eye
color. Available in every color and in cream, pressed and loose powder forms.
D. EYELINERS
An eyeliner is a cosmetic used to define the eyes and make the lash line appear fuller. It
is available in pencil, liquid, pressed (cake), gel, or felt-tip pen form and comes in a
variety of colors.
E. EYEBROW COLOR
Eyebrow pencils and eyebrow powders are used to add color and shape to the
eyebrows.
F. CHEEK COLOR
Cheek color, also called blush or rouge, comes in powder, gel, and cream. Cream is used
after foundation and before powder; powder is used after foundation and powder have
been applied.
G. LIP COLOR
Lip color, also called lipstick or gloss, is a cosmetic in paste form, available in a variety of
colors. It is used to enhance or correct the shape of the lips. Some contain sunscreen;
others contain moisturizers.
1. Available in many colors and forms: Available in a variety of forms: creams,
glosses, pencils, gels, and sticks. All are formulas of oils, waxes, and dyes.
2. Choosing lip color: Consider the client’s preferences, eye color, skin tone, and
lip shape. Do not apply directly from a container unless it belongs to the client.
Use a spatula to remove the lip color from the container and take it from the
spatula with a disposable lip brush.
3. Lip liner: Lip liner is generally applied before the lip color to define the shape
of the lips and keep color from bleeding. It also helps keep lip color from
feathering. Coordinate lip liner with the chosen lip color. Sharpen the lip liner
and sanitize the sharpener before every use.
H. Mascara
Mascara is a cosmetic preparation used to darken, define, and thicken the eyelashes. It
is available in liquid, cake, and cream forms. It enhances the natural lashes, making
them appear thicker and longer. Lashes should be darker than the eyebrows.
1. Polymer product: They are polymer products that include water, wax,
thickeners, film-formers, and preservatives in their formulation.
2. Pigment: Pigments are carbon black, carmine, ultramarine, chromium oxide,
and iron oxides.
3. Contain fibers to thicken lashes: Some contain rayon or nylon fibers to
lengthen and thicken the hair fibers.
I. OTHER COSMETICS
1. Eye makeup removers: Eye makeup removers are special preparations for
removing eye makeup. Eye makeup removers are either water-based or oilbased. Water-based removers are comprised of a solution to which other
solvents have been added.
2. Greasepaint: Grease paint is a heavy makeup used for theatrical purposes
because it does not shift during performances.
3. Cake or pancake makeup: Cake makeup, also known as pancake makeup, is a
heavy-coverage pressed powder that is applied to the face with a moistened
cosmetic sponge. It gives good coverage and is used in everyday makeup to
cover scars and pigmentation defects.
J. MAKEUP BRUSHES AND OTHER TOOLS
Makeup brushes come an array of shapes and sizes.
The makeup brush is divided into three parts:
• Hair: Hair is the term for the bristles.
• Ferrule: Ferrule is the metal part that holds the brush intact and supports the strength
of the bristles.
• Handle: The handle comes in a wide range of lengths and can be made of wood,
acrylic, plastic, or metal. See
1. Caring for makeup brushes
a. Gently cleanse brushes. Gently cleanse brushes with an antibacterial
detergent followed by a commercial cleaning solution.
b. Rinse: Rinse brushes thoroughly after cleansing.
c. Reshape: Reshape the wet bristles and lay the brushes flat to dry.
d Lay brushes flat: Lay brushes flat on a clean towel until dry then store
them in a clean, closed covered container.
2. Types of brushes
a. Powder brush: Large, soft brush used to apply powder.
b. Blush brush: Smaller, more tapered version of the powder brush;
excellent for applying powder cheek color.
c. Concealer brush: Usually narrow, firm synthetic brush with a flat edge;
used to apply concealer around the eyes and over blemishes.
d. Lip brush: Similar to the concealer brush, with a more tapered edge.
e. Eye shadow brushes: Available in a variety of sizes and shapes. The
softer and larger the brush, the more diffused the shadow will be. Firm
eye shadow brushes are best for depositing a dense layer of color.
f. Eyeliner brush: Fine, tapered, firm bristles; used to apply liquid liner or
shadow to the lash line.
g. Angle brush: Firm, thin bristles; used to apply powder to the eyebrows
or eyeliner at the lash line.
h. Lash comb: Tiny, thin plastic or metal teeth separate eyelashes after
mascara application.
i. Brow brush: Used to apply mascara to the lashes or brush brows into
place.
j. Tweezers: Used to groom eyebrows, remove excess facial hair, and
apply false eyelashes.
k. Eyelash curler: A device used to give lift and curl the upper eyelashes.
l. Pencil sharpener: Used before each application of eye or lip liner pencil
to ensure ease of application and hygiene.
K. SINGLE-USE IMPLEMENTS
Single-use implements are disposable and should be discarded after one use.
1. Sponges: Available in a variety of sizes and shapes, including wedges and
circles, and work well to apply and blend foundation, cream or powder blush,
pressed powder, or concealer.
2. Powder puffs: May be made of velour or cotton and are used to apply and
blend powder, powder foundation, or powder blush.
3. Mascara wands: Used to apply mascara on a client; generally disposable, so as
to ensure proper hygiene.
4. Spatulas: A tool with a wide, flat base; used to remove makeup from
containers.
5. Disposable lip brushes: Used to hygienically apply lip color.
6. Sponge-tipped shadow applicators: Used to apply shadow and lip color or to
blend eyeliner; may be used damp to intensify eye shadow color.
7. Cotton swabs: May be used to apply shadow, blend eyeliner, apply lip balm, or
to correct application mistakes.
8. Cotton pads or puffs: May be used with toner or makeup removers.
III. HOW TO USE COLOR THEORY FOR MAKEUP APPLICATION
A thorough understanding of color is imperative to becoming an effective Makeup artist. Those
new to makeup should definitely utilize the color wheel as a guide to makeup application.
A. WARM AND COOL COLORS
Warm and cool colors form the basis of all makeup application and enable you to select the
proper shade for your client’s coloring. There are three main factors to consider when choosing
colors for a client:
1. Skin color
2. Eye color
3. Hair color
B. DETERMINING SKIN COLOR
Determine if skin is light, medium, or dark and whether it has warm or cool undertones.
1. Warm colors: Warm colors range from yellow and gold through oranges, red-oranges,
most reds, and even some yellow-greens.
2. Cool colors: Cool colors encompass blues, greens, violets, and blue-reds.
C. SELECTING MAKEUP COLORS
When selecting makeup colors, you will find pairing warm and cool colors is not recommended.
The warm and cool colors compete with each other and result in an unbalanced appearance.
Staying within one range of colors will ensure a balanced, beautiful look.
1. When applying makeup: Analyze the client’s skin type and choose makeup that will
enhance their skin tone, eye and hair color, as well as their features.
2. Once you have determined if the skin is fair, medium, or deep: Choose eye, cheek,
and lip products. Colors should match the skin tone in level, or try to contrast for more
impact. Most skin tones are complimented by a wide range of colors.
3. Be cautious when choosing lip, cheek, and eye colors for deep skin tones. Light or
flesh-toned shades without enough blue pigment will appear gray or chalky on the skin.
D. COMPLEMENTARY COLORS FOR EYES
Neutrals are always the safest choice. Contrasting eye color with complementary colors will
emphasize the color most effectively.
1. Blue eyes: Orange; choices include gold, warm orange-browns like peach and copper,
red-browns like mauve, and plum and neutrals like taupe or camel.
2. Green eyes: Red; choices include brown-based reds, red-orange, red-violet, and
violet; coppers, rusts, pinks, plums, mauve, and purples.
3. Brown eyes: Neutral and can wear any color; contrasting colors such as greens, blues,
grays, and silvers.
E. ADDING CHEEK AND LIP COLOR
Refer to the color wheel and coordinate in the same color family as the eye makeup
F. HAIR COLOR AND EYE COLOR
Hair color needs to be taken into account when determining eye makeup color.
G. MATURE SKIN
Take care when choosing products for older clients that may have uneven, textured skin due to
wrinkles or sun damage. Shimmer, glitter, or frosted colors can accent dry patches or wrinkles.
IV. ALTER FACE SHAPES WITH MAKEUP
When you analyze a client’s face, you are sure to find that some features are not symmetrical.
Using proper highlighting and contouring techniques helps define facial features. The basic rule
when altering a face shape is that drawing light to an area emphasizes features, while creating a
shadow minimizes them.
• Highlight: A highlight is produced when a product that is lighter than the client’s skin tone is
placed on the high planes of the face.
• Contour: A contour is formed when a product that is darker than the client’s skin tone is used
to create shadows over prominent features so they are less noticeable.
A. ANALYZING FACE SHAPE
The primary goal of makeup application is to emphasize the client’s most attractive features,
while minimizing those that are less appealing.
1. Oval-shaped face: Well-proportioned and considered the ideal face shape.
2. Round face: Broader in proportion to its length than the oval face.
3. Square-shaped face: Composed of straight lines with a wide forehead and square
jawline.
4. Triangular face: Characterized by a jawline that is wider than the forehead.
5. Heart-shaped face: Inverted triangle and has a wide forehead and narrow jawline and
pointed chin.
6. Diamond-shaped face: Its greatest width is across the cheekbones.
7. Oblong face: It has greater length in proportion to its width than the square or round
face.
B. Altering the Forehead Area
1. Low forehead: Apply a lighter foundation just above the brows.
2. Protruding forehead: Apply a darker color.
C. Altering the Nose and Chin Areas
1. Large, protruding nose: Apply a darker foundation along the sides of the nose.
2. Small, flat nose: Apply a lighter foundation down the center of the nose.
3. Broad nose: Use a darker foundation along the sides of the nose and nostrils.
4. Protruding chin: Minimize with a darker foundation.
5. Receding chin: Highlight the chin by using a lighter foundation.
6. Sagging double chin: Use a darker foundation on the sagging portion.
D. Altering the Jawline
Contour clients with a fuller build or sagging jowls with a darker foundation. To correct a
narrow jawline, highlight the thinnest areas with lighter foundation.
E. Altering Eye Shape
The application of eye color can enlarge or minimize certain aspects of the eyes.
1. Round eyes: Lengthen by extending shadow beyond the outer corners of the eyes.
2. Close-set eyes: Apply a light concealer on the inner corner of the eyes.
3. Protruding or bulging eyes: Use a deeper color over the prominent part of the upper
lid.
4. Hooded eyelids: Apply a slightly deeper shadow through the crease.
5. Small eyes: Extend the lightest shadow slightly above the upper lash line.
6. Wide-set eyes: Apply shadow from the inner corners of the eye towards the nose.
7. Deep-set eyes: Use a bright, light reflective color.
8. Dark circles under eyes: Apply a color correcting concealer.
F. Altering Eyebrows
Reshaping and defining eyebrows is an art unto itself. Well-groomed eyebrows are part of a
complete and effective makeup application.
1. Low forehead: A low arch gives more height to forehead.
2. Wide-set eyes: Eyes can look closer by bringing the eyebrows inward.
3. Close-set eyes: Widen the distance between brows.
4. Round face: Arch the brows high to make the face appear narrower.
5. Long face: Make the eyebrows almost straight to create the illusion of a shorter face.
6. Square face: Create a high arch on the ends of the eyebrows to make the face more
oval.
G. Eyelash Enhancers
There are now treatments available to enhance the eyelashes. Cosmetic lash enhancers are lash
lengtheners that contain fibers to make lashes look longer and fuller.
H. The lips
Lips can be full, or thin, and are usually uneven. They should be positioned so that the cupid’s
bow, the peaks of the upper lip, fall directly in line with the nostrils. Create a lip shape using a
lip pencil.
I. Skin Tones
1. Ruddy skin: Apply a green color corrector or color correcting primer to affected areas.
2. Shallow skin: Apply a pink-based foundation on affected areas.
J. Camouflaging Techniques
Use corrective makeup to conceal scars, burns and pigmentation disorders.
V. OUTLINE THE STEPS FOR BASIC MAKEUP APPLICATION
Basic makeup application is a step-by-step procedure to enhance your client’s features. To
accurately interpret their beauty concerns, each session you must start with a consultation.
A. CLIENT CONSULTATION
The client consultation is the first step in the makeup application process. Gather pertinent
information about the client, including skin condition, and make note of any skin sensitivities.
1. Listen closely to the client’s responses when you ask questions such as:
a. What are your beauty concerns?
b. What is your current makeup regimen?
c. How much time do you spend applying makeup each day?
d. What are your favorite colors?
e. What would you change, if anything, about your current makeup look?
2. This is also the perfect time to assess sensitivity due to contact lenses or allergies.
3. Record this information on a service record card.
4. After completing the makeup service: Fill out and review an instruction sheet for your
client to take home.
5. Consultation area: It should be clean and tidy. Keep a portfolio that includes
photographs of your work or pictures from magazines.
B. LIGHTING
Adequate and flattering lighting is essential for both the consultation and the application of the
service. Be sure your client’s face is evenly lit without dark shadows caused by overhead
lighting. Daylight is the best choice.
C. APPLY FOUNDATION
Choosing the correct color of foundation is the first step in the application process. The
foundation should be as close to the client’s natural skin tone as possible:
1. Have the client sit in a well-lit area.
2. Apply with cotton swab: Use a cotton swab to apply a small amount of three different
skin matching shades to the jaw line. The color that seems to disappear is the right
choice.
3. Color balance skin on face and neck: It is important that the color balances the
difference between the skin on the face and neck. If the color of the foundation is too
light, it will look dull and chalky. If the color is too dark, it will look muddy and uneven.
4. After choosing the correct color: Use a spatula to remove the makeup from its
container.
5. Place the foundation on a palette: To avoid contaminating the container.
6. Blend foundation: Use a sponge, your fingertips, or a brush to blend the foundation
from the center of the face outward, using short downward strokes.
a. Line of demarcation: There should be no obvious line of demarcation where
foundation begins and ends.
D. Apply Concealer
Concealer color should be no more than two shades lighter than guest skin tone.
1. Place concealer on palette: Use a clean spatula to scrape some of the product onto a
palette.
2. Apply: Using a concealer brush, apply the product over the area that needs concealer.
3. Blend: Blend by tapping with the ring finger or sponge.
E. Apply Powder
Apply loose powder with a large powder brush or a disposable puff.
1. Applying face powder: Remove some and place it in a disposable cup or tissue. Dip
the brush in the powder and fluff it across the face. Cover all areas of the face; remove
any excess powder. Avoid a caked, streaked, or blotchy application.
F. Apply Eyebrow Pencil
Sharpen the eyebrow pencil and wipe with clean tissue before each use.
G. Apply Eyebrow Powder
Scrape powder from the container onto a palette or tissue then, using a clean, angle brush, fill
in brows with the same techniques used when applying pencil.
H. Apply Eye Shadow
1. Highlight color: Use a highlight color to accent certain areas such as the brow bone.
2. Base color: Use a base color, close to the skin tone across the entire eye.
3. Contour color: Use a contour color to contour the crease, minimize puffiness or
define the lash line.
I. APPLY POWDER EYE SHADOW
Scrape product onto a palette and then use a brush to apply. Blend eyeshadow to achieve the
desired effect.
J. APPLY CREAM EYE SHADOW
Scrape product onto a palette and then use your ring finger to apply. Dab in the center of the
eyelid and blend upward and outward as desired.
K. Apply Eyeliners
Be extremely cautious when applying eyeliner. You must have a steady hand and be sure that
your client remains still.
L. Apply Blush
For a fresh look, color can be applied to the apples of the cheeks, blending outward towards the
temples.
M. Apply Lip Color
Properly applied color should be even and symmetrical on both sides of the mouth.
N. Apply Mascara
If you are using an eyelash curler, you must curl the lashes before applying mascara. Apply
mascara so that it coats the tiniest hairs at the inner and outer corners of the eyes.
1. Using mascara: It may be used on all lashes from the inner to outer corners. Dispose
of the wand. Never double-dip.
VI. APPLY ARTIFICIAL EYELASHES
Artificial eyelashes make the client’s own lashes look fuller, longer, and more attractive without
appearing unnatural.
Two types of artificial eyelashes are commonly used:
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Strip lashes: Strip lashes are eyelash hairs on a band that are applied with adhesive to
the natural lash line.
Individual lashes: Individual lashes are separate artificial eyelashes that are applied to
the base of the eyelashes one at a time.
Eyelash adhesive: Eyelash adhesive is used to make artificial eyelashes adhere, or stick,
to the natural lash line.
A. Apply Strip Lashes
Be sure to choose the correct color and trim to the correct length.
B. Remove strip eyelashes
Be sure to use cotton pads that are saturated with oil based makeup remover.
C. individual lashes
This utilizes tab or cluster (flare) eyelashes.
VII. HOW TO USE SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP
A. SPECIAL OCCASION MAKEUP FOR EYES
1. Option 1: Striking contour eyes.
a. Apply the base color from the lashes to the brow with a shadow brush or
applicator.
b. Apply a medium tone on the lid, blending from the lash line to the crease with
the shadow brush or applicator. Apply a medium-to-deep color in the crease,
blending up toward the eyebrow, but ending below it.
c. Apply a highlight shadow under the brow bone with the shadow brush or
applicator.
d. Apply eyeliner on the upper lash line from the outside corner in, tapering as
you reach the inner corner. Blend with the small brush or applicator.
e. Apply shadow in the same color as the liner, directly over the liner. This will
give longevity and intensity to the liner. Repeat on the bottom lash line if
desired.
f. Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
2. Option 2: Dramatic smoky eyes.
a. Encircle the eye with dark gray, dark brown, or black eyeliner.
b. Smudge with a small shadow brush or disposable applicator.
c. Using the shadow brush or applicator, apply dark shadow from the upper lash
line to the crease, softening and blending as you approach the crease. The
shadow should be dark from the inner to outer corner. You may choose
shimmering or matte finish eye shadows.
d. Repeat on the lower lash line, carefully blending any hard edges.
e. If desired, add a highlight color in a shimmering or matte finish to the upper
brow area with the shadow brush or applicator.
f. Apply mascara with a disposable wand.
g. Add individual or strip lashes if desired.
B. SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP FOR CHEEKS
1. Use a darker blush color under the cheekbones to add definition.
2. Apply with a blush brush or applicator, and blend carefully.
3. Add a brighter, lighter cheek color to the apples of the cheeks and blend.
4. Use a cheek color with shimmer or glitter over the cheekbones for highlight.
C. SPECIAL-OCCASION MAKEUP FOR LIPS
1. Apply liner to the lips. Fill in the lip line with pencil and blot.
2. Apply a similar lipstick color over the entire mouth with a lip brush or disposable
applicator.
3. Apply gloss to the center of the lips with a lip brush or disposable applicator.