Chapter 22 Outline Hair Removal I. INTRODUCTION One of the fastest growing services in the salon and spa businesses is hair removal. Once restricted to an occasional lip or brow service, a growing number of clients now want to have their entire face, arms, and legs bare of hair. Body waxing has gained a tremendous amount of popularity in the last few years. Many clients now have body waxing performed as regularly as getting their hair cut or colored. Hirsuties, also known as hypertrichosis, is the growth of an unusual amount of hair on parts of the body normally bearing only downy hair, such as the faces of women and the backs of men. Hirsutism is an excessive growth or cover of hair, especially in women. The most common form of hair removal in salons and spas is waxing, but with the popularity of these services on the rise, many different methods are now coming into play. Many men are now frequently requesting hair removal services. The nape of the neck, chest, and back are the most frequent removal requests for men. II. CONSULT THE CLIENT Be sure to perform a consultation with the client prior to the hair removal procedure. Have client complete the client intake form which is used in skin care services and is a questionnaire that discloses all medications, both topical and oral along with medical issues, skin disorders, or allergies that might affect treatment. III. NAME THE CONTRAINDICATIONS FOR HAIR REMOVAL Some medical conditions and medications may cause thinning of the skin or make the skin more vulnerable to injury. Waxing clients with these conditions could cause unnecessary inflammation or severe injuries to the skin. Accutane: A contradication would be present if a client has been using isotretinoin (Accutane) within the last six months. Blood thinners: A contraindication would be present if the client is taking blood-thinning medications. Chemotherapy: A contraindication would be present if a client was undergoing chemotherapy or radiation. Autoimmune diseases: A contraindication would be present if a client was taking drugs for an autoimmune disease including Lupus. Prednisone or steroids: A contraindication would be present if a client was taking prednisone or steroids. Skin diseases: A contraindication would be present if a client was suffering from psoriasis, eczema, or other chronic skin diseases. Sunburn: A contraindication would be present if a client had a sunburn. Skin lesions: A contraindication would be present if a client had pustules, papules, or other skin lesions in the area to be waxed. Cosmetic surgery: A contraindication would be present if a client recently had cosmetic or reconstructive surgery. Laser skin treatment: A contraindication would be present if a client recently had a laser skin treatment. Varicose veins: A contraindication would be present if a client had varicose veins. Bleeding disorders: A contraindication would be present if a client had hemophilia, bleeding disorders, or circulatory conditions. Medical condition: A contraindication would be present if a client had a questionable medical condition Conditions that prevent facial services: Guests should not receive a waxing services if they have rosacea, very sensitive skin, cold sores, Recent chemical peel such as a glycolic or salicylic, or recent microdermabrasion. If the guest is using topical exfoliation medications such as Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, Differin, Azelex, or other medical peeling agent. If the guest has had a recent laser skin treatment, surgical peel, or use of hydroquinone. IV. DESCRIBE PERMANENT HAIR REMOVAL Permanent hair removal methods include electrolysis, photoepilation (light-based hair removal), and laser hair removal. A. ELECTROLYSIS Electrolysis is the removal of hair by means of electric current that destroys the growth cells of the hair. B. PHOTOEPILATION Photoepilation, also known as Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), uses intense light to destroy the growth cells of the hair follicles. C. LASER HAIR REMOVAL Laser hair removal is another method for the rapid removal of unwanted hair. A laser beam is pulsed on the skin, impairing hair growth. 577 V. DISCUSS TEMPORARY HAIR REMOVAL Temporary methods of hair removal, some of which may be offered in the salon or spa, are discussed below. A. SHAVING The most common form of temporary hair removal, particularly of men’s facial hair, is shaving. B. TWEEZING Tweezing is using tweezers to remove hairs, commonly used to shape the eyebrows, and can also be used to remove undesirable hairs from around the mouth and chin. C. DETERMINING THE BEST SHAPE FOR EYEBROWS Determine the client’s wishes for final eyebrow shape. 1. Where the brow should begin: Hold the base of a comb or spatula against the corner of the nose with the other end of the comb or spatula extending straight upward toward the eyebrow. This is where the brow should begin. 2. Where the brow should end: Hold the comb or spatula so it extends from the corner of the nose to the outside corner of the eye and then across the eyebrow. The high point of the arch of the brow should be near the outside corner of the iris if the client is looking straight ahead. D. DEPILATORIES A depilatory is a substance, usually a caustic alkali preparation, used for the temporary removal of superfluous hair by dissolving it at the skin’s surface E. EPILATORS An epilator removes the hair from the bottom of the follicle, i.e. wax. Wax is available in two main forms: hard and soft wax. Soft wax is applied to the skin and then removed using fabric strips. Hard wax is somewhat thicker and does not require fabric strips for removal. An example of a waxing service that uses an epilator is a Brazilian bikini waxing which is a technique that requires the removal of all the hair from the front and back of the bikini area. 1. Safety precautions for waxing a. Prevent burns. Always test the temperature of the heated wax before applying to the client’s skin. Use a professional wax heater for warming wax. Never heat wax in a microwave or on a stove top. Wax can become overheated and burn the client’s skin. b. Use caution. So that the wax does not come in contact with the eyes. c. Never double-dip wax. When removing wax from the wax pot, always use a new spatula. d. Do not apply wax over warts, moles, abrasions, or irritated or inflamed skin. Do not remove hair protruding from a mole because the wax could cause trauma to the mole. e. The skin under the arms is sometimes very sensitive. If so, use hard wax. f. Redness and swelling sometimes occur after waxing sensitive skin. Apply an aloe gel and cool compresses to calm and soothe the skin. F. THREADING Threading, also known as banding, is a temporary hair removal method whereby cotton thread is twisted and rolled along the surface of the skin, entwining the hair in the thread and lifting it from the follicle. G. SUGARING Sugaring is another temporary hair removal that involves the use of a thick, sugar based paste and is especially appropriate for more sensitive skin types.
