LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 1 INTRODUCTION TO LOTION MAKING Table of Contents INTRODUCTION TO LOTION MAKING 9 THE BASICS OF LOTION MAKING LOTION: AN EXAMPLE RECIPE AN EXAMPLE RECIPE 10 10 WHAT YOU’LL NEED TO MAKE LOTION (EQUIPMENT AND CONCEPTS) EQUIPMENT THE DOUBLE BOILER THE DIFFERENT PHASES BASIC INSTRUCTIONS FOR MAKING A LOTION (THE HEAT & HOLD METHOD) GOOD MANUFACTURING PROCESSES SOME TIPS ON LOTION MAKING SOME TIPS ON BOTTLING YOUR LOTION SOME TIPS ON INTERPRETING RECIPES AND INCREASING BATCH SIZE INTERPETING THE INCI NAME OF YOUR INGREDIENTS 12 12 13 13 13 14 15 16 16 17 BASIC LOTION RECIPE BASIC LOTION RECIPE Oils Butters Emulsifier Water. Preservative. Thickener Fragrance Skin loving goodies 18 18 18 19 19 19 19 20 20 20 HUMECTANTS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND MODIFIED BASIC LOTION RECIPE WITH HUMECTANTS 21 21 TWEAKING THE BASIC RECIPES SUNFLOWER & SHEA LOTION AVOCADO & MANGO LOTION 22 22 23 BASIC CREAM RECIPE RECIPE FOR A THICKER FOOT CREAM 24 24 BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE MODIFIED TO BE DRIER FEELING 26 26 27 BASIC LIGHT LOTION RECIPE BASIC LIGHT LOTION RECIPE 28 28 BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE BASIC FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE 30 33 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 2 THE CHEMISTRY OF LOTIONS EMULSIFICATION: WHAT’S THAT THEN? WHAT DOES AN EMULSIFIER LOOK LIKE? EMULSIFYING WAX NF POLAWAX (non-­ionic emulsifier) HOW MUCH POLAWAX TO USE INCROQUAT BTMS-­50 (cationic emulsifier) 35 35 36 36 36 36 AN ASIDE: HOW TO CALCULATE YOUR OIL PHASE 37 THE ARGUMENT FOR HEATING & HOLDING OUR LOTIONS 38 CHEMISTRY: PHASE INVERSION TEMPERATURE (OR PIT) 40 CHEMISTRY: SOLUBILITY 41 CHEMISTRY: THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SOLUBLE AND DISPERSIBLE 42 CHEMISTRY: WEIGHT VS. VOLUME 43 CHEMISTRY: ANIONIC, CATIONIC, AND NON-­IONIC 44 CHEMISTRY: pH AND OUR SKIN’S ACID MANTLE 45 CHEMISTRY: OUR SKIN! 47 CHEMISTRY: WHEN LOTIONS GO WRONG! COALESCENCE SEDIMENTATION OR CREAMING ENGULFMENT 49 49 49 51 QUESTION: CAN I SAVE A SEPARATED LOTION? 52 CHEMISTRY: EMOLLIENTS, OCCLUSION, AND HUMECTANTS EMOLLIENTS HUMECTANTS OCCLUSION 53 53 53 53 INGREDIENTS WE USE IN LOTIONS INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS 55 INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS -­ CARRIER OIL PROFILES APRICOT KERNEL OIL AVOCADO OIL CASTOR OIL COCONUT OIL FRACTIONATED COCONUT OIL MAKING A LIGHT LOTION WITH FRACTIONATED COCONUT OIL GRAPESEED OIL HAZELNUT OIL HEMP SEED OIL JOJOBA OIL SHAVING LOTION WITH JOJOBA OIL MACADAMIA NUT OIL 56 56 57 58 60 62 62 65 67 68 70 71 73 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 3 OLIVE OIL FOOT CREAM WITH OLIVE OIL AND BUTTERS OLIVE OIL BODY BUTTER RICE BRAN OIL HAND LOTION WITH RICE BRAN OIL SESAME OIL SESAME OIL & SHEA BUTTER LOTION SOY BEAN OIL SOY BEAN OIL IN A BODY BUTTER SUNFLOWER OIL SWEET ALMOND OIL VIRGIN COCONUT OIL WHEAT GERM OIL 75 76 78 80 80 83 83 85 86 88 89 91 92 INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS -­ BUTTER PROFILES COCOA BUTTER MANGO BUTTER MANGO BUTTER AND HAZELNUT LOTION SHEA BUTTER 94 94 96 96 98 AN ASIDE: CAN I USE GROCERY STORE OILS IN MY PRODUCTS? 100 AN ASIDE: WHY USE MORE THAN ONE OIL IN A LOTION? 100 INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS -­ EXOTIC BUTTERS ILLIPE BUTTER MOWRAH BUTTER KOKUM BUTTER SAL BUTTER MURUMURU BUTTER BABASSU OIL 102 102 102 102 103 103 104 INGREDIENTS: EMOLLIENTS – EXOTIC OILS BORAGE OIL CALENDULA OIL CAMELLIA OIL CARROT TISSUE OIL CRANBERRY OIL EVENING PRIMROSE OIL POMEGRANATE OIL PUMPKIN OIL ROSEHIP OIL SEA BUCKTHORN OIL 105 105 106 107 108 109 111 112 113 114 115 AN ASIDE: HOW DO I KNOW WHEN TO ADD INGREDIENTS? 118 INGREDIENTS: HUMECTANTS GLYCERIN SODIUM LACTATE SODIUM PCA (salt of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) HYDROVANCE ALOE VERA 120 120 121 121 122 122 INGREDIENTS: THICKENING AGENTS 126 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols STEARIC ACID CETYL ALCOHOL AN ASIDE: CETYL ALCOHOL VS. STEARIC ACID CETEARYL ALCOHOL CETYL ESTERS 4 126 127 127 128 129 INGREDIENTS: EXTRACTS ALLANTOIN CHRYSTANTHEMUM OR FEVERFEW EXTRACT COMFREY ROOT CUCUMBER EXTRACT GINSENG EXTRACT GRAPESEED EXTRACT GREEN TEA EXTRACT SHAVING LOTION MODIFIED TO INCLUDE GREEN TEA EXTRACT HONEYSUCKLE EXTRACT HORSETAIL EXTRACT LIQUORICE EXTRACT ORCHID EXTRACT PAPAYA EXTRACT ROSEMARY EXTRACT ST. JOHN’S WORT STRAWBERRY EXTRACT WHITE WILLOW BARK WITCH HAZEL 131 131 134 135 136 138 139 141 145 147 148 150 151 152 154 158 160 162 163 INGREDIENTS: HYDROSOLS Chamomile hydrosol Clary sage hydrosol Honeysuckle hydrosol Lavender hydrosol Melissa hydrosol Orange flower or orange blossom (neroli) hydrosol Peppermint hydrosol Rose hydrosol Rosemary hydrosol 164 164 164 164 165 165 165 165 165 165 INGREDIENTS: SALICYLIC ACID (or BHAs) 166 INGREDIENTS: ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS (AHAs) 167 INGREDIENTS: HYDROLYZED PROTEINS HYDROLYZED OAT PROTEIN HYDROLYZED SILK PROTEIN PHYTOKERATIN 169 170 170 171 USING HYDROLYZED PROTEINS IN YOUR LOTIONS & CREAMS SHAVING LOTION SHAVING LOTION WITH HYDROLYZED PROTEINS USING HYDROLYZED PROTEINS IN BODY BUTTERS BASIC BODY BUTTER WITH OAT PROTEIN RECIPE 172 172 172 173 173 INGREDIENTS: PANTHENOL 174 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 5 LOTION RECIPES HAND LOTION RECIPES HAND LOTION RECIPE FOR WINTER HAND LOTION RECIPE, modified for winter LESS GREASY HAND LOTION MODIFIED FOR WINTER WINTER TIME HAND LOTION, modified to be less greasy FORMULATING A DRIER FEELING HAND LOTION BASIC DRY FEELING HAND OR BODY LOTION DRIER FEELING LOTION WITH ASTRINGENT OILS AND BTMS-­‐50 175 175 176 178 178 179 180 181 BODY LOTION RECIPES BODY LOTION FOR WINTER MONTHS HAND LOTION RECIPE MODIFIED TO BE A BODY LOTION FOR SILLY WOMEN WHO REFUSE TO COVER UP IN THE WINTER BODY LOTION FOR DRY, AGING SKIN BODY LOTION FOR AGING, DRY SKIN MODIFIED LOTION FOR THE SUMMER BODY LOTION FOR SUMMER TIME CAMPING FUN! FORMULATING A SORT OF ALL NATURAL LOTION ANOTHER VERSION OF A SUMMER TIME BODY LOTION (A MORE NATURAL ONE) FORMULATING A SUMMER BODY LOTION IN A COMPLETELY DIFFERENT WAY ANOTHER VERSION OF A SUMMER TIME BODY LOTION 182 182 BODY BUTTERS TWEAKING THE BASIC BODY BUTTER RECIPE MODIFIED BODY BUTTER RECIPE USING ALLANTOIN IN BODY BUTTERS BODY BUTTER WITH ALLANTOIN AND HYDROLYZED PROTEINS BODY BUTTER SUITABLE FOR SUMMER SUMMER MODIFIED BODY BUTTER BODY BUTTER SUITABLE FOR WINTER MONTHS WINTER BODY BUTTER FOR WITH INCREASED BARRIER INGREDIENTS BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR ITCHY, WINTER SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR DRY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR DRY SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR OILY SKIN MODIFIED BODY BUTTER FOR OILY SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR BRUISED SKIN BODY BUTTER FOR BRUISED, DRY SKIN 192 192 193 194 195 196 197 198 198 200 201 202 205 206 209 210 210 FOOT LOTIONS AND CREAMS MAKING A BASIC FOOT LOTION BODY LOTION MODIFIED TO BE A FOOT LOTION MAKING A THICKER FOOT CREAM RECIPE FOR A THICKER FOOT CREAM FOOT CREAM WITH DIMETHICONE FOOT CREAM FOR INTENSELY DAMAGED FEET INTENSELY MOISTURIZING FOOT CREAM FOR REALLY DAMAGED FEET WITH BTMS-­‐50 212 212 214 215 215 216 217 219 LIGHT LOTIONS 221 183 184 185 186 188 189 190 190 191 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 6 LIGHT, SPRAYABLE LOTION OR BODY MILKS LIGHT SPRAYABLE LOTION LIGHT, SPRAYABLE SUMMER LOTION MODIFIED LIGHT SPRAYABLE LOTION FOR THE SUMMER 221 221 222 222 FACIAL MOISTURIZERS -­ GENERAL LIGHT FACIAL MOISTURIZER FACIAL MOISTURIZER RECIPE WINTER TIME MOISTURIZER FACIAL MOISTURIZER WITH HEMP SEED AND MACADAMIA NUT OIL FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN MODIFIED FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR DRY SKIN MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN MODIFIED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER SILICONE BASED MOISTURIZER FOR DRY, WRINKLED SKIN MOISTURIZERS FOR OILY SKINNED GIRLS MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL-­‐FREE FACIAL MOISTURIZER FOR OILY, RESISTANT SKIN MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL-­‐FREE MOISTURIZER FOR ACNE PRONE OR ROSACEA TYPE SKIN MODIFIED CATIONIC OIL-­‐FREE MOISTURIZER FOR OILY, AGING OR WRINKLED SKIN OIL FREE MOISTURIZER CATIONIC OIL FREE FACIAL MOISTURIZER 224 224 224 225 226 227 229 230 231 232 233 233 235 235 236 236 238 SHAVING LOTIONS SHAVING LOTION USING EXTRACTS IN A SHAVING LOTION MODIFIED SHAVING LOTION WITH BOTANICAL EXTRACTS AFTER SHAVE LOTIONS AFTER SHAVE LOTION (for men & women) BASIC MOISTURIZING AFTER SHAVE RECIPE OR MEN’S MOISTURIZER 240 240 241 242 242 243 245 MODIFYING LOTIONS FOOT CREAM WITH AVOCADO OIL AND BUTTERS 246 246 AN ASIDE: CAN I MAKE UP BATCHES OF PRODUCT AND SCENT IT LATER? 247 KEEPING YOUR LOTIONS SAFE: ANTI-­‐OXIDANTS AND PRESERVATIVES CHEMISTRY: RANCIDITY: A PRIMER 249 CHEMISTRY: MECHANISMS OF RANCIDITY OXIDATIVE RANCIDITY PHOTO-­OXIDATION AUTO-­OXIDATION HYDROLYTIC RANCIDITY MICROBIAL RANCIDITY 250 250 250 250 251 251 CHEMISTRY: ANTI-­OXIDANTS VITAMIN E VITAMIN C 252 252 252 AN ASIDE: IS THERE ANY VALUE IN COMBINING ANTI-­OXIDANTS? 253 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 7 CHEMISTRY: SEQUESTERING AND CHELATING AGENTS EDTA CITRIC ACID 254 254 255 INTRODUCTION TO PRESERVATIVES 257 PRESERVATIVES: WHAT MIGHT CONTAMINATE OUR LOTIONS Gram positive bacteria Gram negative bacteria Fungus How do we avoid contamination? 258 258 258 258 258 PRESERVATIVES: HOW DO THEY WORK? 259 PRESERVATIVES: FORMALDEHYDE DONORS 260 PRESERVATIVES: CHEMICALS WE FIND IN OUR PRESERVATIVES ORGANIC ACIDS & SODIUM BENZOATE PARABENS IMIDIAZOLIDINYL AND DIAZOLIDINYL UREA PHENOXYETHANOL IODOPROPYNYL BUTYLCARBAMATE (IPBC) 261 261 263 264 265 266 INGREDIENTS: PRESERVATIVES COSMOCIL CQ GEOGARD ULTRA GERMABEN II LIQUID GERMALL PLUS LIQUIPAR OIL LIQUIPAR OPTIMA LIQUIPAR PE MIKROKILL COS OPTIPHEN OPTIPHEN ND OR ROKONSAL ND OPTIPHEN PLUS PHENONIP SUTTOCIDE A TINOSAN SDC 267 267 268 270 271 272 273 274 275 276 277 278 279 280 281 PRESERVATIVES: WHY GRAPEFRUIT SEED EXTRACT IS NOT A PRESERVATIVE 282 PRESERVATIVES: INACTIVATION OF PRESERVATIVES BY OUR INGREDIENTS INACTIVATION BY NON-­IONIC INGREDIENTS INACTIVATION BY PIGMENTS INACTIVATION BY CELLULOSE DERIVATIVES 282 282 282 283 PRESERVATIVES: CHOOSING THE RIGHT PRESERVATIVE FOR YOUR PRODUCTS 284 DETERMINING THE SHELF LIFE OF YOUR LOTION 285 PACKAGING AND CONTAMINATION 288 APPENDICES: USEFUL INFORMATION ON OILS AND BUTTERS APPENDIX – FATTY ACIDS 291 LOTION MAKING 101 by Susan Barclay Nichols 8 APPENDIX – HYDROGENATION, FATTY ACID SHAPES, AND TRANS FATS HYDROGENATION FATTY ACID SHAPES CIS AND TRANS FATS 293 293 293 294 APPENDIX – FATTY ACIDS YOU MIGHT FIND IN OILS PALMITIC ACID STEARIC ACID LINOLEIC ACID OLEIC ACID GAMMA LINOLEIC ACID CONJUGATED LINOLEIC ACID AND CONJUGATED LINOLENIC ACID 295 295 295 295 297 298 299 APPENDIX -­ OTHER THINGS YOU MIGHT FIND IN OILS AND BUTTERS VITAMIN E – TOCOPHEROLS AND TOCOTRIENOLS POLYPHENOLS PHYTOSTEROLS 301 301 301 303 A LITTLE INFORMATION ON MY YOUTH GROUPS AND YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS 305