Hair Colouring By Gurjap Singh Areas of specific expectations: B.2.4 D.2.2 D.2.5 Why do people use hair colouring in the first place? There are many reasons as to why someone would do that, to keep those gray and white hairs out of people’s site, some do it for fashion, or your famous big time youtuber might use hair colouring to celebrate their 1 Million followers. Egyptians using henna Henna is being used for hair dying purposes for over 5000 years now. It strengthened and smoothened their hair shafts and gave them a little shine as well. Its alternate name is Lawsone and it is extracted from plants. Its chemical formula is C10H6O3. For the average long hair, an amount of 200 g of lawsone(henna) is used, it has has a MM of 174.16 g/mol, converting that to moles it would be 1.1484 Mole. The Romans using hair dye and wigs Yellow hair was required to indicate a prostitutes’ profession. That said, some tribes like the Gaul and the Saxons dyed their hair in bright colourful shades to show their ranks and numbers on the field. Thus, intimidating their opponents. Hair dyeing became popular amongst Roman’s fairly quickly. However, since not all of them were naturally blonde they referred to simple solutions like wigs or making pastes out of ashes and shells of plants and nuts. The rich went as far as to sprinkle gold dust in their hair while going to parties. The revolutionary discovery of William Henry Perkin In a desperate attempt to find a cure for malaria, the chemist was hoping to use coal tar for the cure but instead he created mauveine. This discovery was the first permanent chemical dye, first used on wool and clothes since back then they weren’t many permanent colours. Later on Professor Hoffman, Perkin’s teacher, made para-phenylenediamine (PPD) which was just a refined formula for mauveine. About 500g(5 dL) was used to dye an average shirt, we’ll use that for the calculations. Mauveine: C26H23N4+ First L’oréal Product Eugene Schueller was a French pharmacist who in 1907 invented the first synthetical hair dye which was made using PPD as its main ingredient. L'Auréale was the name of the first commercial permanent hair colour, hence guiding onto the world famous trademark of L'Oréal. Eugene was also one of the first people that used modern advertising techniques. The exact formula of L'Auréale was never found but it consisted majorly of para-phenylenediamine (PPD). An average packet had around 150g(5 oz) in it. PPD C6H4(NH2)2 = C6H8N2 Miss Clairol hair colour bath 1956 Up until the 1950s, hair colouring was only considered something that stage performers or street walkers would use. Women refrained from using the products openly, instead they would carry out the process in full secrecy, in private booths for example. They would book appointments under pseudonyms, a fictitious name that a group knows for a particular reason, in this case it was to show that whoever booked the appointment was getting their hair coloured, without ever mentioning the real name of the person. “Does she… or doesn’t she?” Was the famous slogan that clairol created to get women to be more comfortable with colouring their hair. Today’s hair colouring kits Hair colouring today provides more choices and alternatives. A chemical that is always present in all dyes is para-phenylenediamine (PPD), in addition to PPD, there’s an oxidizing agent known as Hydrogen peroxide H2O2. This oxidizing agent reacts with your hair to first demolish the melanin pigment making your hair lose its natural colour, then it reacts in order to help getting the new colour on the hair. Like mentioned earlier, the average size of a pack of hair dye is about 150g. Today’s hair colouring kits cont’d... Ammonia NH3 is only slightly used in permanent hair dyes. It bleaches your hair, meaning that it removes all colour from your hair leaving a yellowish colour, which then can be dyed. It starts of by raising the pH level of the hair follicle, making it less acidic. This then aids in the removal process of the cuticle layer, a shielding layer on hair, and makes it so that the inner part of the hair can be coloured from deep within, hence why the hair stays permanently in that new shade. Side effects of hair colouring Ammonia is the main reason that hair colouring is very dangerous, since it break down the hair cuticle, which is the outermost layer of the hair. The purpose of the cuticle is to protect the inner shaft of hair, ammonia destroys this layer of protection and opens up the inner hair shaft for the dyeing agent to colour the hair within. Not having that layer of protection, even for a few days can be very damaging to the inner layers. Hydrogen peroxide, like mentioned earlier, is an oxidizing agent, which means that there’s going to be a chemical reaction in the hair. This reaction has oxidative stress on hair, it ages and may end up causing some hair to fall out. H2O2 also is one of the main reasons why hair loses its natural texture, since of all the chemicals it reacts with to get the colour right, you pay the price of loosing beautiful hair texture, shine and appearance Quickkkk!! Use it before it's too late ! Oxidation plays a big role in hair colouring, thus making it very useful and dangerous. For starters it is the kick to the chemical reaction which gets your hair bleached and ready to colour. But when the molecules in the mixture come in contact with the air, sunlight etc.. they quickly start to be less and less effective. So to sum it up, you can’t store already mixed hair dye because it may burst the container, but mainly because if kept out for longer than an hour it becomes ineffective and may even cause some serious allergic reactions in your hair if applied later on. How does hair colour get on every single strand of hair? The ammonia and hydrogen peroxide do the magical work. When ammonia breaks the cuticle, hydrogen peroxide breaks the chemical bonds in hair thus releasing sulphur. That released sulphur by the way makes everything stinky. Anywho, The new dye then gets oxidised goes and colours the hair from within since there is no more cuticle and the hair cortex is exposed which makes it vulnerable to the new pigments. The main 3 faces of hair dye Well by now I’ve talked about these three quite a lot, the main ingredients that are in almost all hair dyes are ammonia, hydrogen peroxide and p-phenylenediamine(PPD). However, this doesn’t mean that they are the only chemicals that are in your Garnier Nutrisse, the last component are the coupling agents. These agents dictate what colour your hair will be, they react with the main chemicals and colour the hair shaft the desired colour. Hydrogen Peroxide, around us and in us This nifty little acid is present in many products that we use on a daily basis. It is used in personal care products, bleaches, toothpaste, mouthwashes, bathroom cleaners, laundry detergents and of course in HAIR DYE. However, those aren’t the only places that you would find Hydrogen peroxide, it is present in your lungs, guts and your ano thyroid gland (this is the organ that releases hormones into the bloodstream). Sources Links: - - - Guenard, R. (2015, January 02). Hair dye: A history. Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2015/01/hair-dye-a-history/383934/z NC, A. (n.d.). Hair dye history: Crazy ways ancient people colored their hair. 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(2018, March 16). The chemistry of Permanent hair Dyes. Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://www.compoundchem.com/2015/05/14/hair-dyes/ Anne Marie Helmenstine, P. (n.d.). The science behind how hair coloring works. Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://www.thoughtco.com/salon-hair-color-chemistry-602183#:~:text=Peroxide%20is%20used%20as%20the,bonded%20to%20the%20hair%20cortex. Ashleyjlong, & Instructables. (2017, October 01). Hair dye science. Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://www.instructables.com/Hair-Dye-Science/ Medical information and health advice you can trust. (n.d.). Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://www.healthline.com/ The cons of coloring your hair at home. (2019, February 22). Retrieved April 17, 2021, from https://americanbeautystar.com/article/pros-and-cons-of-coloring-your-hair/ What is oxidation in hair color? (n.d.). 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