Introduction to Leather Products
Manufacture
BSC 4th YEAR 2ND SEMESTER
Lecturer_ Getachew Adhena (M.Sc. )
(S/Researcher, Leather Goods Designer and
Photographer)
2009 E.C /2017 G.C
GENERAL
CLASSIFICATION OF
LEATHER GOODS
Bags can be generally classified in the
following way:
A.According to size
B. According to leather thickness
C. According to degree of reinforcement
D.According to shapes/silhouette/
E. According the handles
F. According to the surface ornamentation
2.1. CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS
ACCORDING TO SIZE
1. SMALL LEATHER GOODS
• Personal leather goods which are usually carried in pocket or
hand bags
• Most of product made with out any internal stiffening of
reinforcement.
• Cow softy, goat glaze, sheep Nappa, calf skin etc. can be
used to manufacture.
• Example- wallet, key case, pass port case card case cigarette
case
2.1. CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS
ACCORDING TO SIZE
2. MEDIUM LEATHER GOODS
• Sizes are large compare to small leather goods.
• Products may have stiffening reinforcement.
• Dry milled, sheep Nappa, Buff Softy etc. can be
used to manufacture.
• Example-shopping bag, shoulder bag, document
case.
3. HEAVY/LARGE LEATHER
GOODS
• Large than medium leather goods products.
• Products are made with stiffening of
reinforcements.
• Made from cow, buff and camel hides.
• Split leather, cow upper, upholstery, buff
softy leather can be used to manufacture.
• Example-Doctor case, Rolling bag, Travel
case bags.
STANDARDS/RANGES OF BAG SIZE
a. Small bag- 30cm w* 25/26cm h
b. Medium bag- 30-32cm w * 27/28cm h
c. Medium large bag- 32-34cm w*28-30cm h
d. Extra – large bag- above 34-40w* 32-35 h
OTHER BAG CLASSIFICATION BASED ON
SIZE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Up to 6"
6 ¼" to 12"
12 ¼" to 14”
14 ¼" to 16"
Larger than 16 "
UP TO 6"
Olds the bare minimum
- your phone, keys, lip
gloss and a few credit
cards.
6 ¼" TO 12"
Fits a small
wallet, phone
and lip gloss
12 ¼" TO 14''
A good everyday
bag. Holds all the
essentials, with
room for your backup flats
14 ¼" TO 16"
Carries
essentials, work
papers, laptop, water
bottle, and back-up
shoes.
LARGER THAN 16 "
A perfect carryon. Holds essentials plus
a magazine, laptop,
a light scarf and
anything else you need.
2.2.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING
TO LEATHER THICKNESS
1. Tinny Leather- leather which has a thickness of 0.5mm to 1mm
and used in making of small Leather Goods.
2. Standard Leather-
leather which has a thickness of 1mm
to1.2mm and used in making of Medium Leather Goods.
3. Dense Leather- leather which has a thickness of 1.2mm to 1.5mm
and used in making of Heavy/large Leather Goods.
2.3.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING TO
DEGREE OF REINFORCEMENTS
Classified in to three groups
1.Limp leather Goods
2.Semi Limp Leather Goods
3.Stiffed Leather Goods ( Mold
and Box or Build Up Leather
Goods
)
1. LIMP LEATHER GOODS
• Leather Goods Products are made with
out applyin interna stiffener or
g
l
reinforcement
.
2. SEMI- LIMP LEATHER GOODS
• The products have paper or stiff fabric
material as a foundation between the
leather and lining.
3. STIFFED LEATHER GOODS
A. MOLDED LEATHER GOODS
It is container type and the foundation is made by
gluing successive layer of paper or plastic around the
block of the required shape.
• Molded work is with in the area of both small and large
goods.
• Vegetable tan leather is appropriate for molded work.
•
3. STIFFED LEATHER GOODS
B. BOX OR BUILD UP LEATHER
GOODS
Articles are made on the foundation of sheet pulp
board/texon board/ and covered with leather.
• They are subjected to fancy leather goods.
•
Box
Built up
BOX HAND BAGS
BUILT UP
CLUTCH
2.4.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING TO
SHAPES/SILHOUETTE/
Classified in to four types
1.T- Gusset hand bags
2.U –Gusset Hand bags
3.All round Hand bags
4.Bottom base/Oval gusset hand
bags
GUSSET
It is a triangular or rhomboidal
or rectangular piece of Leather
that is placed inside of a seam to
reduce the stress of tight fitting .
2.4.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING TO
SHAPES/SILHOUETTE/
A. T-GUSSET BAG
• The bag look like letter “T”.
• Base can be done by cut out and with out cut .
• The volume of the bag depends on the styling of the bag
and the purpose of utility/Function.
• The size of the width will vary 10-14cm.
T- GUSSET HAND BAG
B. U-GUSSET BAG
The oval or round side of the bag determined from the side (U
gusset)
• Front and back part depends on the side panel.
• The volume of the bag depends on the styling of the bag and
the purpose of utility/Function.
• The size of the side width will vary 10-14cm.
•
U-Gusset
C. ALL ROUND GUSSET BAG
• The curved edge or rounded bags are determined from the front or
back panel.
• The all round gusset is determined from the front/back panel.
• The volume of the bag depends on the styling of the bag and the
purpose of utility
• The size of the width will vary 10-14cm.
D. BOTTOM GUSSET BAG
• The oval or rounded base bag determined from the bottom
panel.
• The front and back panel depends on the base panel.
• The volume of the bag depends on the styling of the bag
and the purpose of utility
• The size of the width will vary 10-14cm.
·-
2.5.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING TO
HANDLES
A. TOTE BAG
• Medium to large bag with two straps and open top
B. CLUTCH- handle less
C. SHOULDER BAG
• Any bag with two shoulder length straps.
D. CROSS -BODY BAG
• One long strap that crosses over the body, with the
bag resting at the front by the waist.
2.6.CLASSIFICATION OF BAGS ACCORDING TO
SURFACE ORNAMENTATION
A. QUILTED BAG
SEQUINED
A. S
EMBROIDERED BAG
C. BRAIDING BAG
D. CUT WORK BAG
E. WEAVING BAG
--
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F. BURNT OUT LEATHER
BAGS
H. SMOCKING
TECHNIQUES BAGS
G. RUCHING TECHNIQUES
BAGS
I. CORDING TECHNIQUES
BAGS
Components of Handbags,
Travel –related bags and
small leather Goods
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• A handbag can be as simple as a tote bag or as
complicated as any designer wishes.
• There is no limit to materials and components to be
used.
1. Body- the outline of the particular products.
2. handle -A bag usually has one or two handles or a
shoulder strap, by which it is carried. Some bags
have both.
• The strap width depends on the accessories inner size (inner
width), such as D-Ring or Buckle, Dog Hook, etc. If the DRing inner size is 2.5cm, then the strap width will be 2.3 cm,
because for easily movement of the D-Ring.
• Handle or strap length depends on the purpose of the
bag. If it is shoulder bag then the drop length will be
28 cm -32cm. The briefcase shoulder strap will be
adjustable- shorter strap with buckle will be 30 cm and
longer strap will be 90 cm-120 cm strap. Cross over
bag with adjustable will be 140 cm.
• Distance between the straps (inside) for the arms in
small bags should be 12cm it can go up to 14 or 16 cm
for larger one. The width varies according to the size
of the accessories starting from 2, 2.5, 3, 3.5cm etc…
for shopper bag it should not less than 2cm.
There are various types of straps and handles, such as raw
edge handle, chain handles, folded handle or strap, rope
handles, weaved rope handles, tub handle.
CNTD…
3. Flap
4. Pocket and components
5. Gussets
6. Lining
7. Hard ware- it includes all
metal components of a bag
like metal closures, rings, DRings, Buckles, Lock and key,
Feet studs, Snaps, Zippers
and the logo plate.
8. Feat and wheels
9.Closuresit
offer
protection from pickpockets
and prevent the contents of
the bag from falling out
STRAP/HANDLE CONSTRUCTION
Construction detail states about the particular pattern
of different leather goods products. There are
different types of leather goods handle/strap
construction.
1. Raw edge
2. Folded edge
3. Butt edge
4. Turned over edge
5. Cord strap
1. RAW EDGE (CUT EDGE)
These are articles whose component parts are cut to definite
size and assembled together so that outer edges are absolutely
flush or level when stitched. For this type of work, vegetable
tanned leather of good quality with firm close texture is
preferred.
To impart a good finish to these articles, all the edges are
stained, polished and creased.
Two components
Pasted and stitched
2. FOLDED EDGE
This term refers to all articles whose components are
cut with additional margins which may be skived
according to substance of the material used. Then
the margins are applied with an adhesive and turned
or folded over on to the lining or other interior
parts. Then they are secured by stitching, thus
enclosing all raw edges.
Two component
Trimming of corners
One component skived
Folded together
Pasting one over the other
Final stitching
3. BUTT EDGE
 In butt edge construction two folded edges are placed
together keeping the grain side out and stitched. It gives a
double edge stitches all round the edges.
Two components
Skived on four sides
Folded individually and stitched
together
4. TURNED OVER EDGE
 This type of construction is very popular in leather
making.
 The main feature in this type of construction is that
the stitches in the articles are not seen.
 During fabrication the components are assembled with
inside out and then stitched.
 When the stitching operation is over they are turned or
pulled out. So the stitches are visible only inside the
articles. These articles need piping on the seam to add
strength and beauty.
 Articles like travel bags, air bags, shoulder bags, ladies
hand bags etc are fabricated in this way.
Two components
Skived on one side
Folded and pasted
Turned over
Stitched with grain side together
Two components
Stitched with grain side together
Piping wire and leather to cover
Piping prepared
Turned over
Final turned assembly
5. CORD/PIPE STRAP
 The leather has to cut as per size – such as length is
65cm to 70cm. and the width is 4.5-5 cm.
 Leather has to cut according to the pattern. Rope or
Plastic Pipe has to place in the middle of the leather
part by glue.
 Put Eva or Rubber in the tip of handle as bump
effect.
 Cover the back part by small piece of leather
(spitted). Fold the handle as round and the edge will
be match. Stitch and Color the edge.
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READING ASSIGNMENT
Port folio Handles
Pleated /Fancy Handle
4. Pocket /patch
• A pocket is a small bag, particularly a bag-like
container either fastened to or inserted in an
article of goods.
• Pocket is a pouch that has a closed end is
usually stitched on leather goods or even
inside the goods.
• The pocket can be both functional and
decorative purposes.
• Pocket helps in holding and small article
temporarily.
• A pocket opening should be wide enough for
hands and deep enough to keep objects from
falling down.
• It is important that pocket size, shape, and
placement should complement the design of
the leather goods.
• Pocket can be classified based on
 Shape/style
 Appearance/placement.
4.1. CLASSIFICATION OF POCKET
BASED ON SHAPE/STYLE
Patch pocket
patch pocket with
top stitch
Flap pocket
Buttoned flap pocket
4.1. CLASSIFICATION OF POCKET BASED
ON APPEARANCE/PLACEMENT
There are three types of pocket under this category:
1. Outside pocket
2. Inserted pocket
3. Welt pocket
1. OUT SIDE POCKET
A. PATCH POCKET
• Appear on the out side of the
products.
• They can be lined or underlined
attached by machine.
• They can be squa re, rectangular,
point or curve.
B. POUCH POCKET
• Appear on th
the out side of the
products
They can
can be
be llined or underlined
•• They
attached by ma chine.
•• They
attached by round
They are
are att
gusset.
• They can be designed with or
with out flap.
C. ACCORDION POCKET
• Appear on the out side of the products
• They can be lined or underlined
attached by machine.
• They have some gathered and pleated
part.
• It was used for utility for military and
industrial garment.
• The pocket has now become
fashionable for any leather goods.
• They can be designed with or with out
flap.
2. INSERTED POCKET
The pocket is stitched inside
of the leather goods in to
straight and styled seam.
Inside pockets are usually
made from a lining fabric.
3. WELT POCKET
• A welt pocket is a small, flat pocket that is commonly used on the
exterior and interior part of leather goods.
• It has either one or two lips. A lip is simply a finishing on the
opening edge of the welt pocket.
• the width of welt pocket lip will vary 3/8inch(1cm)-1 inch(2.5 cm)
• Wider welt pocket lips are usually used in luggage bags that only have
a lower lip. Thinner welt pocket lips, on the other hand, are usually
used in medium and soft ladies bags
Single lip
Single
lipwelt
weltpocket
pocketCV
Double lip welt pocket
4.3 POCKET MARKING
• Pocket cab appear in different part of bags
• Gaps that should be given for attaching zip according to
their size.
Number 3--------------1cm gap
Number 5--------------1.2 cm gap
Number 7--------------1.4cm gap
5. SOME COMMON
CHARACTERISTICS OF HANDBAGS
cross- body bag_one long strap
that crosses over the body, with
the bag resting at the front by the
waist
2. drawstring bag_ any bag that
closed
or
can
be
cinched/assured/ with a draw
string on top.
3. Sling bag: one long, wide strap
that crosses over the body, with
the bag resting on the back
1.
4. North-south bag_ designers term for any bag that is
taller
rather than wider compare to portrait orientation.
5. East-West bag_ designers term for any bag that is wider
rather than taller compare to landscape orientation.
6. Purse _ small container holding coins and now may
contain a wallet, keys, cell phone….. The term is much
more general synonym for women hand bag.
7. PORTFOL IOS
• Portfolios are generally viewed as types of briefcases.
• They were designed for carrying by hand, and they have
two handles at the top.
• Portfolios have a zipper that runs from the top to the
bottom to allow easy access. Logo portfolios are available
in smaller sizes and larger sizes. The larger versions have
carrying straps or longer handles so that they can be
carried over the arm like messenger bags or purses.
Larger portfolios are often used by artists and models to
show their artwork or pictures to potential clients.
CNTD…
.
There are also "internal" differences between
padfolios and portfolios.
Portfolios are typically larger or thicker because they
are designed to hold a multitude of items. Many of
them are accordion-style to accommodate more than
just papers.
On one side of the portfolio there is space for a
steno or a legal pad, and on the other side there are
extra pockets used to store miscellaneous office items.
Leather
portfolio with
handle
8. PADFOLIOS
• Padfolios are slightly different.
• They do not have handles at the top because they
are meant to be carried under the arm.
• They are available in two sizes: letter size and
legal size. This refers to the size of the padfolio
when it’s closed.
• The letter size fits standard-sized pieces of paper,
while the legal size holds a standard-sized legal pad.
Some padfolios have zippers and some do not;
many have a buckle-type closure on the front
instead.
CNTD…
• Generally, padfolios are thinner and more
lightweigh because they are designed to
tcontain "flat" items like paper or
They have the same space on one side for a notepad
• notebooks.
or a legal pad, but instead of having extra pockets
like portfolios, they usually have only one pocket.
This pocket is large enough to store a thin file or
several extra sheets of paper. However, there are
some versions that have small storage compartments
for pens or pencils.
SLING BAG & CROSS BODY BAG
--
DRAW STRING BAGS & PURSE
Bags & lining
techniques
• Lining is a very important factor for judging the quality of a
bag.
• Aesthetics of the bag interior plays an important and the
lining must be beautiful to the eye.
• There are two kinds of bag lining construction
1. Drop-in lining method
2. Fixed lining method
• Both methods can incorporate a lot of practical storage
compartments and zipper pockets, as well as welt seams,
adding to the complexity of the design.
1. DROP IN LINING METHOD
• It is made separately from the
outside of the bag.
• Lining pieces are more or less
square grids with the bottom
corners cut out.
• The lining should be same
size (5-10mm less ) and
shape as the body of the
bags before being inserted in
a bag cavity and attached to
the opening.
2. FIXED LINING METHOD
• It is made as part of the exterior
assembly while everything is flat.
• It sewn on three side and the 4th
will left open for turning.
• It is important to think the
construction step by step.
• Once the lining is attached it is
not possible to sew a pocket
over it.
DROP IN & FIXED LINING INSIDE HAND BAGS
,
Activ,
C,o to
Belt and its
classification
• A belt is a flexible band or strap, typically
made of leather, synthetic or heavy cloth and
worn mostly around the waist.
• The actual use of the waist belt is to keep the
pant tight at the waist.
• The buckles used are different attractive
designs , coated and they are attachable and
fitted as per customer choice.
• Leather belts are more comfortable in use and long
lasting that belt made of other materials.
• The manufacturing process of these belts is very
simple.
• Belt can easily be fabricated by small scale/ cottage
scale.
• Factors to be considered
Size, Materials, Price, Color,
Buckles
BELT SIZE
The belt size is often indicated in
inches or centimeters. This
number corresponds to the length
of the tour of the strap –
measured from the buckle to the
mid hole
Size
XS
S
M
L
XL
2XL
3XL
4XL
5XL
Measurement in Inch
24-26
28-32
34-38
40-44
46-50
52-56
58-62
64-68
70+
BELT HOLE
Belt may have 3, 5 or 7 holes.
From the center hole of the belt
1,2, 3 punched holes longer (at
one inch increments) and 1,2,3
punched holes shorter (at one
inch
increments).
This
arrangement gives you the widest
relevant range in adjusting your
belt.
BELT CLASSIFICATION
Belts typically fall into two categories: Formal and Casual.
A. FORMAL OR DRESS BELTS
• This types of belt should be worn with suits,
dress slacks/pants and most business-casual
pants.
• If you are wearing dress shoes, wear a dress
belt.
• the dress belt should match with dress shoes,
both in leather finish as well as leather texture.
• It is 1 and 1 ½ inches or It will be 2.5 – 3.5cm
wide. And approximately 1/8" thick
A. FORMAL OR DRESS BELTS
B. CASUAL BELT
• They are worn with casual pants like jeans,
chinos, khakis, and shorts.
• They are typically wider and thicker than
formal belts.
• The belt's width can vary between 1" and 2
although most casual belts fall between 1 1/4"
and 1 3/4“.
• the leather's thickness can range from below
1/8" up to 3/4" .
CNTD…
• There are two main casual belt
options: leather and fabric/synthetic.
• The casual belt buckle comes in
every size, shape, and material you
can imagine.
• Casual fabric belts don't need to
"match" they need to coordinate
with your outfit.
OTHER BELTS CLASSIFICATION
1
2
3
4
5
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Utility Belt /Duty Belt/
Studded Belt
Brest Belt
Leg Belt
Ammo Belt
Seat Belt /Safety Belt/
6