HISTOLOGY OF THE HAIR OF THE BODY We have approximately 5 million hairs on our body Of these, about 150,000 (more if you're blond, less if you're a redhead) are found on our scalp. The only parts of our body where there are no hair follicles are the palms, soles, lips, and genitalia HAIR GROWTH CYCLE Each hair grows from a pocket in the skin called the hair follicle. During its growing (anagen) phase, the follicle has a bulbshaped bottom, the center of which is called the dermal papilla. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE The papilla protrudes into the hair bulb and is responsible for instigating and directing hair growth. The lower part of the dermal papilla is connected to the fibrous root sheet. The hair matrix surrounds the top and sides of the dermal papilla. NORMAL HAIR FOLLICLE HAIR GROWTH CYCLE: ANAGEN The papilla is fed by very small blood vessels, which bring food and oxygen and take wastes away. The papilla is highly sensitive to hormones. It is here that hormones and chemicals secreted by your body (or ingested as a medicine) work on the hair, making it grow faster, slower, or not at all. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE: ANAGEN Hair grows by forming new cells at the base of the root. These cells multiply to form a rod of tissue in the skin. The rods of cells move upward through the skin as new cells form beneath them. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE: CATAGEN As they move up, they're cut off from their supply of nourishment and start to form a hard protein called keratin in a process called keratinization. As this process occurs, the hair cells die. (catagen) The dead cells and keratin form the shaft of the hair. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE: TELOGEN The length of a person's hair depends on the length of the growing phase of the follicle. Follicles are active for 2 to 6 years; they rest for about 3 months after that (telogen) A person becomes bald if the scalp follicles become inactive and no longer produce new hair. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE: ANAGEN, CATAGEN, TELEOGEN Each hair grows about ¼ inch (about 6 millimeters) every month and keeps on growing for up to 6 years. The hair then falls out and another grows in its place. HAIR GROWTH CYCLE Within every head of hair, each hair grows, falls and grows again, quite independently from its neighbor. Despite differences in speed of growth all the hair in the world follows this timeless cycle which seems capable of reproducing itself many times over. However, very often this fine system of constantly regenerated life becomes seized up - so that little by little hair loss increases, the hair becomes rarer and finishes by disappearing altogether HAIR PIGMENT The color of our hair is determined by pigmented cells growing at the dermal papilla. These cells (melanocytes), contain a chemical pigment (melanin). The amount and density of melanin in these cells determines the exact color of your hair. HAIR PIGMENT There are two types of melanin, one coloring hair brown to black (eumelanin) and one coloring hair blond to red (pheomelanin). The color, shape and thickness of hair is in a large part determined by genetics...just look at your folks! HAIR PIGMENT/GROWTH CYCLE In darkly pigmented individuals, melanin can be found in abundance within the melanophages of the dermal papilla. The hair matrix is the actively growing portion of the follicle consisting of a collection of epidermal cells that rapidly divide, move upward, and give rise to the hair shaft and the internal root sheath. HAIR PIGMENT/GROWTH CYCLE Melanocytes can be found between the basal cells of the hair matrix. Melanin is transferred from these melanocytes into the cells that make up the hair shaft and is responsible for the color of the hair according to its quantity. The hair matrix cells give rise to 6 different types of cells that make up the different layers of the hair shaft and the inner root sheath. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE Thick hair grows out of large follicles; narrow follicles produce thin hair. Hair shape is also determined by the shape of the follicle FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE Size and shape matter Studies seem to increasingly indicate that these two elements are closely implicated with the shape of the hair follicle and its position in the scalp. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE We can now say with certainty that this "biological factory" functions as a mold, giving the hair its shape from the moment it is reproduced. Hair is a biologically dead material, subsequently hair fiber keeps this original shape. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE The shape of a hair is never completely circular. The cross-section of a hair is an ellipse which can tend towards a circle or be distinctly flattened. An analogy with other materials shows how this cross-section influences the appearance of the hair: a virtually flat ribbon rolls up much more easily than a cylindrical length of string. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE Asian hair has a round , cylindrical cross-section and is a thicker hair. Most Asian hair is straight FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE African hair has a flattened cross-section and is finer, the ringlets of which can form tight circles with diameters of only a few millimeters. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE Caucasian hair is much more variable and as its cross section forms a more or less accentuated ellipse, Caucasian heads of hair range from straight, through wavy to very curly. FOLLICLE SIZE AND SHAPE These general points should not make us forget that a hair, of whatever sort, is never totally consistent in size throughout its entire length. In this respect, Asiatic hair can be observed as being the most regular while African hair is the most irregular. THE HAIR FOLLICLE IS A SAC-LIKE STRUCTURE THAT SURROUNDS THE HAIR ROOT. IT IS FOUND BELOW THE SKIN, AND HAS VERY SMALL BLOOD VESSELS GIVING IT NOURISHMENT. EXOCRINE GLANDS Sebaceous glands surrounding the hair root secrete oil (sebum) while saltwater (perspiration) is secreted from nearby sweat glands. Sebum protects the hair and keeps it shiny and waterproof,sweat is a way for the body to cool down if it's too hot. SEBACEOUS AND SUDERIFEROUS GLANDS PURPOSE OF BODY HAIR Keep body heat in. Warm-blooded mammals require a warm body temperature to survive (cold-blooded animals, like snakes and other reptiles, metabolize and survive at "roomtemperature" and thus neither need, nor have, hair). PURPOSE OF BODY HAIR: MUSCLE The arrectorpili, contracts when in a cold environment, or when fearful. The hair is pulled downwards so it stands up straight (goosebumps or gooseflesh) Warm air trapped between each hair. This functions like a layer of clothing, keeping warmth in. PURPOSE OF BODY HAIR Thus reducing cooling by air convection of the skin, as well as in response to central nervous stimulus, similar to the feeling of 'hairs standing up on the back of your neck’ This phenomena also occurs when static charge is built up and stored in the hair. HAIR COMPOSITION Hair is composed of a protein called keratin. Same protein found in our nails and in our skin. Amino acids form polypeptide chains that combine to form the hair filament AMINO ACID CHEMICAL COMPOSITION STRANDS OF KERATIN MADE UP OF AMINO ACIDS HAIR COMPOSITION: CUTICLE The hair shaft consists of 3 layers The outermost layer is called the cuticle. It is transparent and acts to protect the inner layers. . The outermost layer of the hair shaft (cuticle) consists of overlapping cells that are arranged like shingles. They point outward and upward and interlock As a result, they move upward in the follicular canal as a single unit. HAIR COMPOSITION: MEDULLA The innermost layer (medulla) is composed of large baggy cells that may have a hollow-like appearance. Difficult to visualize. this layer is discontinuous in many cases and is often completely absent. Medullary cells contain glycogen-rich vacuoles and medullary granules. HAIR COMPOSITION: CORTEX The middle layer of the hair shaft is the hair cortex Constitutes the bulk of the hair and consists of cells that keratinize gradually as they move upward from the hair matrix. The bulk and strength of hair is from this compact area of cells The hair cortex cells keratinize without forming granules The keratin produced is termed hard keratin. HAIR AND HUMANS: WHY? The thermodynamic properties of hair are based on the properties of the keratin strands and amino acids that combine into a 'coiled' structure. This structure lends to many of the properties of hair, such as its ability to stretch and return to its original length. HAIR AND HUMANS Hair is a very good thermal conductor and aids both heat transfer into and out of the body. This is often seen as a problem with straighteners and blow drying as the hair quickly transfers the heat into the inner hair shaft and heats the water in the hair to boiling point resulting in dry brittle hair if silicone insulating oils are not used. HAIR AND HUMANS Keratin can easily be damaged by excessive heat and dryness, suggesting that extreme sun exposure, perhaps due to a lack of clothing, would result in perpetual hair destruction, eventually resulting in the genes being bred out in favor of high skin pigmentation. HAIR AND HUMANS Parasites live on and in hair Peoples who preserved their body hair would have required greater general hygiene in order to prevent diseases A need for grooming, two predominant factors in the civilization of homo sapiens.[2] HAIR AND HUMANS It had been believed that body hair was lost and replaced by increased fat storage. However, this is often found to be quite untrue, where people with excessive weight tend to also have increased body hair production.] HAIR AND HUMANS •It is more correct to understand fat storage as a means of storing energy evolved due to infrequent sources of food being available commonly seen in people of nomadic descent •Hair production as a result of increased weight may be due to sensitive skin attempting to prevent abrasion where skin to skin contact may occur, HAIR AND HUMANS SUMMARY Hair is an appendage of the skin Hair is made of Keratin Hair has a 3 stage growth cycle Hair holds body heat Follicles are where hair is produced Follicle size and shape determine hair siaze and shape Hair color is from melanocytes The hair follicle holds the sebaceous gland Hair growth can be hormonally stimulated http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Androgenic_hair Milady Comprehensive Training for Estheticians Delmar Learning, Thompson Publishing 2007 Salon Fundamentals, Pivot Point Intl. 2000