Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Acknowledgements Development of this program … Trademarks & Copyright Acknowledgements PowerPoint® is a registered trademark of Microsoft Corporation. LeaderGuide Pro™ is a trademark of Great Circle Learning, Inc. Intellectual property of Aveda Corporation. This leader guide was created with: a product of Great Circle Learning, Inc. www.leaderguidepro.com Leader Guide Table of Contents Table of Contents INTRODUCTORY MATERIAL Getting Started ii About This Guide ii The Program In Perspective vi Program Preparation vii Training At A Glance xii MODULES Welcome and Introduction Welcome and Introduction Hair Color Challenges Overcoming Challenges 1 2 8 9 Color Theory Review 14 The 6 Consultation Steps 17 Hair Color Solutions 32 Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired 33 Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired 46 Post-Treatments: Color Balancing 53 Post-Treatments: Toning 59 Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy 67 Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 73 74 Page i Getting Started Leader Guide Getting Started About This Guide What’s the purpose of this guide? This leader guide provides a master reference document to help you prepare for and deliver the Hair Color Solutions program. What will I find in the guide? This leader guide is a comprehensive package that contains Page ii the workshop delivery sequence checklists of necessary materials and equipment presentation scripts and key points to cover, and instructions for managing exercises, case studies, and other instructional activities. Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Getting Started About This Guide How is this guide organized? This section, ―Getting Started,‖ contains all of the preparation information for the Hair Color Solutions program, such as learning objectives, pre-work, required materials, and room setup. Following this section is the ―Training At A Glance‖ table. This table can serve as your overview reference, showing the module names, timings, and process descriptions for the entire program. Finally, the program itself is divided into modules, each of which is comprised of one or more lessons. A module is a selfcontained portion of the program, usually lasting anywhere from 20 to 90 minutes, while a lesson is a shorter (typically 520 minute) topic area. Each module begins with a one-page summary showing the Purpose, Time, Process, and Materials for the module. Use these summary pages to get an overview of the module that follows. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page iii Getting Started Leader Guide About This Guide, continued How is the text laid out in this guide? Every action in the program is described in this guide by a text block like this one, with a margin icon, a title line, and the actual text. The icons are designed to help catch your eye and draw quick attention to ―what to do and how to do it.‖ For example, the icon to the left indicates that you, the instructor, say something next. The title line gives a brief description of what to do, and is followed by the actual script, instruction set, key points, etc. that are needed to complete the action. A complete list of the margin icons used in this guide is provided on the following page. IMPORTANT NOTE You may also occasionally find important notes such as this one in the text of this guide. These shaded boxes provide particularly important information in an attention-getting format. Page iv Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Getting Started About This Guide, continued Graphic Cues Module Blocks Goal Time Overview Materials Break Lesson Blocks Assessment Audio Capture Case Study Check Computer Flipchart Activity Handouts Game Highlight Key Points Lab Objective Process Project Q&A Role Play Say This Speaker Time Tools Transition Video Workbook wheel connect attend image inform practice extend refine perform © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page v Getting Started Leader Guide The Program In Perspective Why a Hair Color Solutions program? To teach learners how to use Aveda Hair Color to address common hair color problems with smart solutions. Learning Objectives After completing this program, participants will be able to: Explain how to use Aveda Hair Color systems to solve common hair color challenges Perform the 6 consultation steps using a Color Talk Profile Formulate and apply hair color changes with success Program Timing 7 Hours (including a 1-hour lunch break) Number of Participants 15–20 Page vi Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Getting Started Program Preparation Pre-Work Create any flip charts in advance. Gather required training materials and tools. Pre-color 3 mannequin heads for the workshop: – Mannequin 1: Lightened to Level 8 with 1–2 inches of new growth – Mannequin 2: Darkened to Level 3 with 1–2 inches of new growth – Mannequin 3: Darkened to 4 V/R Create Color Talk Profiles with guest practice scenarios. Required Materials General Materials Computer with DVD Player Projector and Screen Flip Chart, Stand and Markers PowerPoint Slides Pens and Markers (for each table) Post-it Notes (for each table –you will need 6 different colors if you are doing the color Sudoku puzzle as a large group) Participant Workbook (1 per person) Models or 3 Pre-colored Mannequin Heads for the Workshop Certificates of Completion (1 per person) The Art and Science of Hair Color and Texture DVDs (OPTIONAL) Collateral © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Full Spectrum Permanent Hair Color Chart, Swatchboard Page vii Getting Started Leader Guide Program Preparation and Formulation Guide Full Spectrum Deep Hair Color Chart and Swatchbook Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Color Treatment Hair Color Chart and Swatchbook Full Spectrum Hair Color Professional Reference Guide (1 per table) Botanical Therapy Positioning Chart (1 per person) Product (one complete set of each color category) Full Spectrum Permanent Full Spectrum Deep Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Color Treatment Enlightener Powder Lightener and Creme Booster Color Catalyst (5, 10, 20, 30 and 40 Volume) Color Treatment Activator (Creme and Liquid) Color Conserve Shampoo, Conditioner, Strengthening Treatment and pHinish Damage Remedy Shampoo, Conditioner and Intensive Restructuring Treatment Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution Botanical Therapy Hair Treatments: – Dry Remedy Penetrating Moisture – Damage Remedy Penetrating Protein – Refillable Applicator Bottles (5) Page viii Full Spectrum Stain Remover Color Viscosity Hair Color Thickener Hand Relief (1 per table) Blue Oil (1 per table) Aveda Candles (1 per table) Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Getting Started Program Preparation Handouts Blank Color Talk Profiles (a stack per table) Pre-filled Color Talk Profiles for Practice Scenarios Technical Tools: 3 Pre-colored Mannequin Heads (see Workshop module for precoloring instructions) Hair Color Bowls/Applicator Bottles Hair Color Brushes Whisks Gloves Scales Tube Wringers Towels Room Set-Up Set up the room with theater-style seating and round tables (space permitting). Place a flip chart and stand at the front of the room. Set up the computer, projector and screen at the front of the room. Place the following items on each table: – Participant Workbook (1 per person) – Blank Color Talk Profiles (color copies, 1 stack per table) – Full Spectrum Hair Color Professional Reference Guide (1 per table) – Pens and Markers – Post-it Notes (for each table) © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page ix Getting Started Leader Guide Program Preparation – Aveda Candle (1 per table) – Blue Oil (1 per table) – Hand Relief (1 per table) Set up any Shampoo/Electricity Stations. Instructor Preparation Page x Read through this Facilitator Guide and review the Full Spectrum Hair Color Professional Reference Guide prior to the training. Make copies of all handouts and gather all required materials. Pre-color the mannequin heads for the workshop and complete Color Talk Profiles for the practice scenarios. Set up the room following the above Room Set-Up instructions. Make sure any audio/visual equipment is working properly. Play upbeat music as learners enter the room. Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Getting Started Program Preparation 4MAT Wheel Concept: Solutions © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page xi Training At A Glance Leader Guide Training At A Glance Time 15 Minutes Module Welcome and Introduction Description Welcome learners to the training, lead the group through the Aveda Mission, experience a moment of wellness and share the learning objectives. 1 Hour (plus Hair Color a 15-minute Challenges break) Solve a color Sudoku puzzle, perform oneminute skits to review hair color theory and review and practice the 6 steps to a successful consultation. 1 Hour and 30 Minutes Hair Color Solutions Review the top 3 color change scenarios, learn hair color cleansing, precoloration, color balancing and the Botanical Therapy Hair Treatments. 3 Hours Model / Mannequin Workshop Practice color change services on models/predone mannequin heads, solve any ―Unsolved Challenges‖ as a group and review key concepts by creating hair color superheroes in groups. Page xii Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Welcome and Introduction Goal The purpose and goal of this module is to welcome learners to the training and introduce the learning objectives. Time 15 Minutes Overview Welcome learners to the training, lead the group through the Aveda Mission, experience a moment of wellness and share the learning objectives. Materials Needed © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide. Page 1 Welcome and Introduction Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Show Slide 1: Hair Color Solutions Title Slide Say: Welcome to Hair Color Solutions! Today you are going to learn how to use Aveda Hair Color to solve the hair color challenges you face at your salon every day. IMPORTANT NOTE Introduce yourself to the group, share your history and role with Aveda and why you love Aveda Hair Color. You could also share a story about when you faced a tough hair color challenge. Ask: If you think about the guests you see on a regular basis, what percentage have virgin hair? (Accept any answers and write the average percentage on a flip chart page. The goal is for them to share a small percentage.) Page 2 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Welcome and Introduction Say: If we do the math, that leaves _______ percent who are coming in with previously colored or treated hair. This means that as hair colorists, we are rarely working on a ―clean canvas.‖ And hair color is a reactive chemical process, which can cause unpredictable color outcomes. Our job is to use hair color creatively and solve any hair color challenges that come our way. Ask: How many of you have faced a hair color challenge that you just couldn’t solve? (Look for a show of hands.) Say: By the end of today’s training, you will have the knowledge and tools you need to tackle your unsolved hair color challenges with Aveda Hair Color. IMPORTANT NOTE Go over any necessary housekeeping information before you continue the training. Agenda Bathroom Locations Breaks Direct participants to PAGE 3 in the Participant Workbook. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 3 Welcome and Introduction Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Show Slide 2: Mission Activity mission activity 3 Say: Aveda is known throughout the beauty industry for its unwavering commitment to the environment, which is reflected in our mission. Since today is all about solutions, please fill in the missing words from the mission in your workbooks. (Give learners a few minutes to complete the activity.) Show Slide 3: Aveda Mission Mission • Our mission at Aveda 3 Say: Let’s recite the mission together. Page 4 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Welcome and Introduction Show Slide 4: Wellness wellness Say: Solving hair color challenges requires creativity—and when our minds and bodies are well, we give our creativity more room to uncover solutions. Let’s take a moment to refresh our minds and bodies before we begin. IMPORTANT NOTE Lead the group through a wellness activity of your choice. Try to incorporate color or relate it to the concept of solutions. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 5 Welcome and Introduction Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Show Slide 5: Learning Objectives learning objectives • Explain how to use Aveda Hair Color systems to solve common hair color challenges • Perform the 6 consultation steps using a Color Talk Profile • Formulate and apply hair color changes with success 4 Direct participants to PAGE 4 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Now that we’re feeling refreshed, let’s review the learning objectives. After today’s training, you will be able to: Explain how to use Aveda Hair Color systems to solve common hair color challenges Perform the 6 consultation steps using a Color Talk Profile Formulate and apply hair color changes with success Place an “Unsolved Challenges” flip chart at the front of the room. Page 6 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Welcome and Introduction Welcome and Introduction Say: Remember those unsolved challenges you were thinking of before? I want to you write them down on the Post-it Notes at your tables and add them to this chart. During our workshop, we’ll come back to these challenges and see if we can’t solve them together. Feel free to add new challenges to this flip chart as you think of them throughout the class. Ask: Are there any questions before we begin? Say: Let’s learn the art and science of hair color solutions! Transition to Hair Color Challenges © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 7 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges Goal The purpose and goal of this module is to connect learners to the concept of solutions and understand how it applies to hair color. Time 1 Hour (plus a 15-minute break) Overview Solve a color Sudoku puzzle, perform one-minute skits to review hair color theory and review and practice the 6 steps to a successful consultation. Materials Needed Page 8 See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide. Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges Overcoming Challenges connect Show Slide 6: Color Sudoku Challenge color sudoku challenge 5 Direct participants to PAGE 5 in the Participant Workbook. Ask: How many of you have played Sudoku before? Say: Sudoku is a logic puzzle that involves creating patterns of numbers or colors. Since we are all hair colorists, you’ll find a color Sudoku puzzle in your workbook. The puzzle is comprised of six squares, and there are six additional squares within each larger square. The goal is to fill in all the squares of the puzzle using the six color options and following a few simple rules: Use all the color options in each box without repeating Use all the color options in each row without repeating Use all the color options in each column without repeating © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 9 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide Overcoming Challenges Take a few minutes and try to solve the puzzle on your own. (Give the learners 5 minutes to complete the activity.) IMPORTANT NOTE You could also do this as a large group activity by recreating the puzzle on flip chart pages and using six colors of Post-it Notes. Say: Let’s review the solution as a group and see how you did. (Go through the solution on the PPT slide.) Show Slide 7: The Solution grey green orange blue blue grey green orange pink black green grey blue green pink green black orange black the solution blue pink black blue orange green grey 5 attend Page 10 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges Overcoming Challenges Ask: How many of you solved the puzzle? For those of you who didn’t, how did you feel when you couldn’t solve the puzzle? How did you feel once you knew the answer? Say: When we are faced with challenges we can’t solve, we often have an emotional response like the ones you just described. Direct participants to PAGE 6 in the Participant Workbook. Say: As hair colorists, we all have at least one hair color ―horror story‖ that you hope to never repeat again. Please answer the questions in your workbook, and then take a few minutes to share your story at your table. (Give learners 5 minutes to share at their tables.) Ask: Would someone like to share one of their stories with the group? Say: Our goal today is to make these hair color horror stories a thing of the past and build your confidence to handle any hair color challenge. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 11 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide Overcoming Challenges image Show Slide 8: The Big Challenge the big challenge 7 Direct participants to PAGE 7 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s say that a guest comes into your salon with her hair looking like this. Her natural level is 6 Dark Blonde with 50% grey, and her desired shade is a 6 Y/O Dark Golden Blonde. Please complete the head sheet in your workbook with the guest’s existing hair color. Ask: Any ideas on how to solve this challenge? (Accept any answers.) Page 12 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges Overcoming Challenges Say: At first glance, you may think that the only solution is to cut the hair and start over. But at the end of today’s training, we’ll return to this challenge—and you’ll be able to solve it using the foundational principles we’re going to cover today. Let’s review one of these foundational principles right now— color theory. In order to have successful hair color outcomes, you need to understand how color theory impacts the chemical hair coloring process. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 13 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide Color Theory Review inform Show Slide 9: Color Theory Review color theory review 8 Direct participants to PAGE 8 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Take a moment and visualize your favorite color. Color appears everywhere in the world—not just in the world of hair color. When you color a guest’s hair, the laws of color are at work. Ask: Why do you think it is important for hair colorists to understand color theory? (Listen for: create better results, work with the N.R.P., make more creative formulas, accurately assess the guest’s natural level and their desired result, etc.) Page 14 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges Color Theory Review Say: For our color theory review, you’re going to get into groups and teach back the key concepts to the rest of the class in oneminute skits. You’ll use the Full Spectrum Professional Reference Guide as your primary resource—and don’t be afraid to be creative! Run the Color Theory Review activity: Divide learners into 7 groups and assign them the following topics in the Professional Reference Guide: – Black & White and the Color Wheel (pp. 96–97) – Level and Tone (p. 98) – Decolorization (p. 99) – Natural Remaining Pigment (p. 100) – Composition and Structure of a Hair Strand (pp. 101–102) – Melanin and Natural Hair Color (p. 103) – Hair Color Categories (p. 104) Give the groups 10 minutes to research and create their oneminute skit. Encourage the learners to be creative (use flip charts, get the class involved, etc.) Have each group perform their skit while the rest of the learners take notes on page 9 in their workbooks. Recap the key points after the skits are complete and coach as needed. Ask: Are there any questions about color theory? © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 15 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide Color Theory Review Say: Let’s talk about another key factor to a successful hair color outcome—the consultation. Page 16 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps inform Show Slide 10: The Consultation the consultation 11 Write “Guest Consultation” on a flip chart. Say: Every great hair color service begins with a great consultation, which is part of the Discover Needs section of the Aveda Service Cycle. Ask: During a hair color consultation, what are some of the key things you discuss with your guest? (Accept any answers and write them on the flip chart.) © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 17 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Show Slide 11: The 6 Consultation Steps the 6 consultation steps 11 Direct participants to PAGE 11 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The consultation is a critical time during the hair color service—and when you might see the first signs of challenges. That’s why the goal of the consultation is to get as much information as possible from your guest. To help you, Aveda has created a consultation framework that consists of six key steps: Page 18 Analyze the hair Determine the hair color history Determine the realistic desired shade Discuss the price Discuss the timeframe Recommend home care Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Show Slide 12: Color Talk Profile color talk profile 12 Direct participants to PAGE 12 in the Participant Workbook. Say: There is a great tool to help guide you through these six steps— the Color Talk Profile. Please follow along in your workbooks as I review how to use it during the consultation. Show Slide 13: Analyze Hair • Length • Texture • Condition – Porosity – Elasticity • Density 13 © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 19 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Direct participants to PAGE 13 in the Participant Workbook. Say: On the Color Talk Profile, you’ll see a section with a checklist of what to analyze. This section will help you identify the pretreatments and amount of product/cost for the service before you even begin talking about their desired color results. Length: The length of the hair will determine the time frame and the amount of product you will need to use— which will both affect the pricing. Texture: The size or diameter of the strand (fine, medium or coarse). Coarse hair has a tighter cuticle that makes it more resistant to hair color. Fine hair absorbs hair color quickly. Ask: How else might your color formula be affected by the hair’s texture? (Listen for: Color Catalyst volume) Say: If the hair is very coarse, you may need to use a higher Color Catalyst volume to achieve the desired result, even if you are only lifting one or two levels. The same goes for fine hair—a lower volume may be the better option. The next thing to assess is the hair’s condition. Page 20 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Ask: Why is the hair’s condition important when determining your formula? (Listen for: to determine if you should proceed with the service) How many of you have a hair color that didn’t take on the ends? How about color that went black on the ends? Say: Condition: When we talk about the overall condition of the hair, we’re really looking at two key things—porosity and elasticity. – Porosity is the hair’s ability to absorb and hold moisture. Porous hair will absorb hair color fast and fade quickly. If the hair is extremely over- processed, there may be nothing left in the cortex to retain the color. We will talk about options for these guests later. Non-porous hair has a tight cuticle that rejects color. – Elasticity measures how well the hair stretches and returns to its original length. Damaged hair typically lacks elasticity. There are complete steps to the porosity test and elasticity starting on page 13 in the Full Spectrum Professional Reference Guides at your tables. If you’re not familiar with these tests, please review these steps during one of the breaks and take notes in your workbook. Ask: Have you ever have a guest whose hair felt mushy when it was wet? © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 21 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Say: This means that the hair lacks strength and elasticity and could produce very inconsistent, unpredictable results. This will not be a good outcome if your guest is expecting a different color. Your expertise on determining whether the hair is in a condition to proceed with a color change service is very important for your business. We will learn more about how to solve this situation when we talk about pre-treatments later in the training. During the hair analysis, the first thing to look at is density. Density: The number of hairs per square inch on the scalp (thin, medium or thick) Ask: Which parts of your formulation will density affect? (Listen for: the amount of product you use, Color Catalyst volume) Say: If your guest has thicker, denser hair, it may require a higher Color Catalyst volume and more product during application. On the back of the Color Talk Profile, you’ll see extra room for a more in-depth analysis of the hair, including space to write different answers for different parts of the hair strand. Ask: Why should you analyze the hair at the new growth, midlengths and ends? (Listen for: the condition of the hair may vary from new growth to ends and will affect your application and/or formula) Page 22 Any questions about analyzing the hair? Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Show Slide 14: Determine Hair Color History • Previous hair color? • What type? • How recent? • Lifestyle? 14 Direct participants to PAGE 14 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Next, you will talk to your guest about their hair color history. If your guest has previously colored their hair, the Color Talk Profile highlights some additional questions that you can write down in your workbook: What type of hair color? How recent? Any lifestyle or other things to consider? Take a moment to think of your own favorite questions for discovering your guest’s hair color history and share them at your tables. (Give learners a few minutes to discuss.) Ask: How does previous color affect your formula choices? (Accept any answers.) © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 23 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Say: Because color doesn’t lift color, your outcome will be limited if you are unaware of the canvas you are working with. Keep in mind that the guest’s previous color, including the number of different colors present, may not be visible to the eye, so you will need to ask questions to help understand what might be under the color you see. Show Slide 15: Establish Realistic Desired Shade • Ask open-ended questions • Use pictures and descriptive language • Gain agreement 14 Direct participants to PAGE 14 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Once you’ve determined the existing hair condition and taken a hair color history, it’s time to discuss the guest’s desired outcome. Remember that every person sees and describes color differently—I’m sure you can think of a time when what your guest described and what you created were different. Take time to understand and confirm the exact color your guest envisions. Page 24 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Ask: What are some questions that you ask your guests to confirm their desired hair color? (Accept any answers.) IMPORTANT NOTE Remind the learners that asking open-ended questions is the best way to get the most information from the guest. Having a portfolio of different hair color looks will also help confirm the final color they envision. Say: Once you determine the preferred shade and complete the Offer Solutions section of the Color Talk Profile to determine any pre-work and the type of application, you can fill in the guest’s desired level, tone and intensity on the back. The answers to the first two steps (hair condition and history) will determine if you can achieve the guest’s result in one or multiple visits. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 25 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Show Slide 16: Establish Price $60? $400? $250? 15 Direct participants to PAGE 15 in the Participant Workbook. Say: With your hair color plan in place, it’s time to talk price. The Color Talk Profile helps you confirm pricing for every step of the service and gain agreement from your guest. A good practice is to offer two options so the guest can make a decision that best fits their budget, time constraints and lifestyle. Always remember to include pre- and post-treatment services in your options. You could say: ―To achieve this look, it will cost $X today and X number of visits to achieve. The ongoing maintenance required for this look will cost $X per visit.‖ Pricing can often be a challenging subject with guests. At your tables, share some of your best tips for talking price with your guests and write them down in your workbooks. Page 26 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Ask: What are some of the best tips you discussed at your tables? (Accept any answers and encourage the learners to write them down in their workbook.) Show Slide 17: Discuss Timeframe • How long today? • How long for future appointments? 16 Direct participants to PAGE 16 in the Participant Workbook. Ask: Have you ever started a hair color service and halfway through had a guest tell you they needed to leave soon? How did that work out? (Accept any answers.) Say: Time is precious to everyone and especially during a color change service, because things don’t always go exactly as planned—that’s why it’s important to ensure that your guest has a realistic expectation of how long the service will last today as well as at future maintenance appointments. Timing can be a major factor in the service option your guest © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 27 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps chooses, so it is important to discuss it up front. Show Slide 18: Recommend Products for Home Maintenance shampoo condition treat prep style finish 16-17 Direct participants to PAGES 16-17 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The final step in the consultation is to recommend products for home care. Ask: Why would you talk about home care during the consultation instead of at the end of the service? (Listen for: introduce retail products early, links retail products to ongoing maintenance, encourages the guest to purchase retail twice during the service, etc.) Say: The consultation is a great time to introduce the guest to the Color Conserve system and other products designed for colortreated hair. It shows the guest that you are the expert and that you care about helping them keep their new color looking Page 28 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps fabulous. You could say: ―It’s my job to give you a great new color, and it’s your job to keep it looking great at home. One way you can do this is by using Aveda products designed for color-treated hair.‖ Talking about home care also gives you a natural transition to ongoing appointments and pre-booking, which will boost your guest retention and revenue. Explain how pre-booking ensures you are available to keep up their brand new look. practice Show Slide 19: Consultation Practice consultation practice Say: Let’s put what you just learned into practice. You’re going to pair up and do some role playing using the Color Talk Profile and the six consultation steps. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 29 Hair Color Challenges Leader Guide The 6 Consultation Steps Run the Consultation Practice activity: Have the learners find a partner. Instruct the learners to complete the consultation steps using their existing hair color as their desired result (Have learners with bald/shaved heads join another group to create a group of three). Have the learners take turns role playing the stylist and guest. The learner playing the stylist should complete a Color Talk Profile and perform all six consultation steps. Walk around the room and coach as needed. After five minutes, instruct the learners to switch. When both role plays are complete, have the learners give each other feedback on what they did well and what they could improve on. Ask: How many of you feel there are parts of the consultation that you could work on? Direct participants to PAGE 18 in the Participant Workbook. Say: In your workbooks, I want you to write down a consultation step that you want to improve on. Then write down two action items that will help you improve that particular skill. Ask: Are there any questions about the Color Talk Profile or the six consultation steps? Page 30 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Challenges The 6 Consultation Steps Say: Let’s take a quick break. When you return, we’re going to dive into the hair color processes you need to know to overcome challenges and create beautiful hair color results. Take a 15-minute Break Transition to Hair Color Solutions © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 31 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Goal The purpose and goal of this module is inform learners how to perform successful color change services with Aveda Hair Color. Time 1 Hour and 30 Minutes Overview Review the top 3 color change scenarios, learn hair color cleansing, precoloration, color balancing and the Botanical Therapy Hair Treatments. Materials Needed Page 32 See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide. Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired inform Show Slide 20: What Are the Top 3 Color Change Scenarios? what are the top 3 color change scenarios? 19 Say: Since we know that most guests we see have previous color on their hair, let’s narrow down our options for making a color change. Write “Common Color Change Scenarios” on a flip chart. Ask: When guests come in needing a color change, what are the most common scenarios you see? (Listen for: darker than desired, lighter than desired, and different tone.) Write all answers on the flip chart and star or circle darker than desired, lighter than desired and different tone. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 33 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Direct participants to PAGE 19 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The top three scenarios are: Darker than desired Lighter than desired Different tone Take a minute to write them down in your workbook. Show Slide 21: Hair Color Solutions Path hair color solutions path 19 Direct participants to PAGE 19 in the Participant Workbook. Page 34 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Say: In your workbook, you’ll see a hair color solutions graphic that will be our roadmap as we learn about corrective hair color services. At Aveda, we believe in treating every hair on the head during a hair color service—and treating every guest to Aveda Unique Service. Depending on your guest’s scenario, you will follow a different path, which includes both pre- and post-treatments. Let’s start with a guest who comes in with a hair color that is darker than they desire. Ask: How have you approached this type of challenge in the past? (Accept any answers, but listen for: hair color cleansing.) Show Slide 22: Pre-Treatment: Hair Color Cleansing pre-treatment: hair color cleansing Remove the tone in order to achieve the desired shade 20 Say: If we follow the path in your workbook, the first step is to cleanse the previous color from the hair. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 35 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Ask: Why do you need to cleanse the color? Why not just put the new lighter color over the previous color? (Listen for: hair color does not lift hair color) Direct participants to PAGE 20 in the Participant Workbook. Say: In your workbooks, you’ll see four different squares representing different tones and levels. Using the markers at your table, I want you to draw lines with as many different colors as you can in each square. (Give learners a few minutes to do this.) Ask: Which colors look true to tone? Which colors get lost? Say: This may seem like a simple exercise, but it proves a powerful, essential point. When the hair is too dark and you want to apply a lighter color—or if the tone is incompatible—you must first remove the existing tone so you get a true-to-tone color result. Level and tone are critical to assessing the guest’s existing color and their desired color. For example, a guest may say they like how dark/light their current color is but they want to ―warm it up‖ for the Fall. This is referring to tone. Page 36 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Ask: How do we adjust tone without changing the level? (Listen for: hair color cleansing) Say: Let’s learn how to formulate and apply a hair color cleanse. We can do this by using the Hair Color Cleansing Chart to create a formula that will remove the tone. Removing tone is an essential skill to successfully shifting a guest’s look seasonally. Let’s talk about how to determine when you need to do this. If your guest’s desired result is an incompatible tone with their existing hair color, you will need to first remove the tone in order to achieve the desired shade. Let’s practice a few scenarios. practice Show Slide 23: Should You Remove the Tone? should you remove the tone? 21 © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 37 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Direct participants to PAGE 21 in the Participant Workbook. Run the Tone Game activity: Have learners find a partner. Explain that they will be completing an activity in their workbook about removing tone. Discuss an example together as a group: – The guest had a V/R tone applied at their last hair color service. Now they want a R/O tone at the same level. Since V/R is the stronger tone, R/O will not cover it. Therefore, the incompatible tone (V/R) must first be removed with a hair color cleansing formula. Give the learners 5 minutes to complete the Remove Tone exercise in their workbooks. Review the answers as a group and coach as needed. Say: When you need to change the guest’s level without changing the tone (for example when the hair is darker than the desired level) you can use the same formula but adjust your Color Catalyst to help lighten the level. inform Page 38 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Show Slide 24: Formulation: Hair Color Cleansing formulation: hair color cleansing 22 Direct participants to PAGE 22 in the Participant Workbook. Say: There are three steps to formulate for a color cleanse: Identify the level of the previously colored hair Determine the desired level and tone Use the Hair Color Cleansing Chart to select the correct formula for the desired result Say: The Hair Color Cleansing Chart lives on your Full Spectrum Permanent Hair Color Chart for easy reference. It’s also in your workbook with a spot to take notes. You’ll notice that you can choose to simply remove tone or lighten the hair 1, 2, or 3 or more levels—and every formula contains Enlightener Powder Lightener, Shampure and either hot water or Color Catalyst. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 39 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Ask: When would you remove tone versus lightening the hair? (Listen for: when the guest desires to stay the same level/lightness or darkness, but wants to go warmer or cooler; to go lighter than the existing level you must cleanse the color to expose lighter hair) Show Slide 25: Rock Your Reds rock your reds 23 Direct participants to PAGE 23 in the Participant Workbook. Page 40 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Say: Hair color cleansing is especially important for redheads. Removing tone twice a year can help remove brownout or faded, drab ends. The goal is to remove the tone until you expose the N.R.P. that supports your desired end result. Let’s take a look at how to do that by using the Natural Remaining Pigment chart in your workbook. Ask: What would the NRP be for an intense copper at a Level 7? (Listen for: orange) What about an intense red at a Level 6? (Listen for: red) Looking at your N.R.P chart, where do you think you would get the best red formulas? (Listen for: where the N.R.P is red or orange for that level) Say: I want you to highlight or circle these levels in your workbook—this is the sweet spot for creating great reds. It is possible to create great reds at lighter levels, but because reds are notorious for fading and losing vibrancy, these levels would be best to target when talking about reds and coppers with your guest. OPTIONAL: Show Hair Color Cleansing application video from The Art and Science of Hair Color and Texture DVD. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 41 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Say: Remember to begin a hair color cleanse application at the darkest area and take a test strand frequently to ensure best results. Once the color has been cleansed, you will rinse and apply another pre-treatment before re-coloring the hair. Show Slide 26: Pre-Treatment: Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution pre-treatment: damage remedy™ equalizing solution • Strengthens, repairs and evens porosity • Protects weak, delicate hair during processing • Improves the hair’s resistance to breakage 24 Direct participants to PAGE 24 in the Participant Workbook. Say: If we go back to our hair color solutions path, the final step before applying your new hair color formula is to pre-treat the hair with Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution. Ask: How many of you are using this during your hair color services? How do you use it? (Accept any answers.) Page 42 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Say: Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution is an ideal pre-treatment that works from the inside out, protecting the hair during the hair color service. Let’s review some of the key benefits, and write them down in your workbook: Strengthens, repairs and evens porosity Protects weak, delicate hair during processing Improves the hair’s resistance to breakage Show Slide 27: How to Use It how to use it Pre-service treatment Leave-in treatment during the hair color service • Spray 1 oz on the hair and comb to distribute • Dry the treatment into the hair • Apply hair color 24 Say: When the hair is darker than desired, you will use Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution as a leave-in treatment after the hair color cleanse. After shampooing and rinsing the hair, spray 1 oz (30 ml) of Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution on the hair and comb to distribute. Dry the treatment into the hair. Then you’re ready to apply your new hair color formula. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 43 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Ask: Are there any questions about the pre-treatments for coloring hair that is darker than desired? practice Direct participants to PAGE 25 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s practice creating a pre-treatment plan and formulating for a guest with hair that is darker than their desired level. Show Slide 28: Practice Scenario: Eva practice scenario: eva Natural Level: 3 Ash Desired Level: 7 Neutral What is your pre-treatment plan? 25 Say: Imagine you have a guest named Eva who is a natural Level 3 and ash in tone, but she wants to be a Level 7 and neutral in tone. Using the Color Talk Profile, work with your table to develop a pre-treatment plan, including formulas. (Give the learners a few minutes to determine their plan.) Page 44 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Darker Than Desired Ask: Would one of the groups like to share their plan? (Accept any answers and coach as needed.) Say: Great job everyone. Make sure you write down the correct formulas in your workbook. Now let’s talk about the pre-treatments needed when a guest’s hair is lighter than desired. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 45 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Inform Ask: When a guest comes in and wants to go darker, how do you typically handle this situation? (Accept any answers, but listen for: precoloration.) Say: There are several options, and we will review all of them, but in the case of a guest who wants to go three or more levels darker than existing color, precoloration is required. Let’s go back to our hair color solutions path, where you’ll see Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution again in the pretreatment process—but when you are precoloring the hair, you will use Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution both before and after the precoloration service to even the porosity and protect the hair during processing. Show Slide 29: Pre-Treatment: Precoloration pre-treatment: precoloration The desired shade is 3 or more levels darker than the existing color 26 Page 46 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Direct participants to PAGE 26 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s talk about precoloration, which will provide the Natural Remaining Pigment required to support the darker desired shade. Ask: Does anyone know what type of Aveda Hair Color you use for precoloration? (Listen for: Deposit-Only Color Treatment) Why do you use this type of hair color? (Listen for: you are going darker and do not need lift) Show Slide 30: Formulation: Precoloration formulation: precoloration 1. Identify the natural level 2. Identify the level and tone of the previously colored hair 3. Determine the desired level and tone 4. Use the Precoloration Chart to select the correct formula for the desired level and tone 26 © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 47 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Say: There are four steps when creating a precoloration formula: Identify the natural level. Identify the level and tone of the previously colored hair. Determine the desired level and tone. Use the Precoloration Chart to select the correct formula for the desired level and tone. Show Slide 31: Precoloration Chart precoloration chart 27 Direct participants to PAGE 27 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The Precoloration Chart also lives on your Hair Color Chart, but you’ll find a version of it in your workbook as well. Page 48 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Ask: What are some things that you notice about this chart? (Listen for: organized by tone, different formulas for intense results, all formulas include Natural Base and Universal ØN, target level represents the desired Full Spectrum Permanent level) Say: Keep in mind that all your precoloration formulas use DepositOnly Color Treatment shades. Once you’ve determined your formula, you will pre-treat with Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution, apply the precoloration formula and process at room temperature for 15–20 minutes. Then shampoo, apply Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution again and towel-dry the hair to prepare for applying the final hair color formula. OPTIONAL: Show Precoloration application video from The Art and Science of Hair Color and Texture DVD. Ask: Any questions about precoloration? practice Direct participants to PAGE 28 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s practice with another scenario. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 49 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Show Slide 32: Practice Scenario: Beth practice scenario: beth Natural Level: 9 Gold Desired Level: 6 Auburn What is your pre-treatment plan? 28 Say: Now imagine you have a guest named Beth who is a natural Level 9 and gold in tone, but she wants to be a Level 6 and auburn in tone. Using the Color Talk Profile, work in groups at your table to develop your pre-treatment plan, including your precoloration formula. (Give the learners a few minutes to determine their plan.) Ask: Would one of the groups share their plan? (Accept any answers and coach as needed.) Say: Great job everyone. Make sure you write down the correct formulas in your workbook. Page 50 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired Show Slide 33: Practice Scenario: Kari practice scenario: kari New Growth: 6 Mid-Lengths: 7 Ends: 9 Desired Level: 6 Gold What is your pre-treatment plan? 28 Ask: How often do you have guest with hair that is different colors at the new growth, mid-lengths and ends? Say: This is the kind of hair you see every day in the salon. Let’s review one more scenario for a guest named Kari, who has a variety of different colors and tones in her hair: New growth: 6 Mid-lengths: 7 Ends: 9 Kari’s desired level is 6 and gold in tone. At your tables, determine your pre-treatment plan using your Color Talk Profile. Ask: Would one of the groups share their plan? (Accept all answers, but make sure the plans include the pretreatments of Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution and precoloration.) © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 51 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Pre-Treatments: Lighter Than Desired IMPORTANT NOTE Don’t reveal Kari’s final formula, as this scenario sets up the next section on refreshing and reestablishing color. Ask: Are there any questions about what we learned so far? Say: Great work! Now let’s talk about the color change services you would perform after you apply the guest’s desired hair color formula. Page 52 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Color Balancing inform Show Slide 34: Hair Color Solutions Path hair color solutions path 19 Say: Let’s go back to our hair color solutions path again. Unlike the first half, which follows a specific path, after you apply your desired hair color formula, you have several post-treatment options to choose from. Ask: What type of color change processes would you do if your guest’s color wasn’t even from new growth to ends? (Accept all answers.) Say: Aveda’s term for evening color is ―color balancing,‖ It addresses all the processes you just mentioned, and the formulas can vary to provide a very specific result depending on your guest’s desired outcome. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 53 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Color Balancing Show Slide 35: Post-Treatment: Color Balancing post-treatment: color balancing 29 Direct participants to PAGE 29 in the Participant Workbook. Say: There are two reasons why you color balance. In your workbooks, you’ll see two different hair color scenarios. I want you to write down what you think the solution would be. Ask: What would you do if the hair lost tone or lightened up to one level? (Accept all answers, but listen for refresh color, which is Aveda’s term.) What if you lost tone or lightened 1–2 levels? (Accept all answers, but listen for reestablish color and go over the answers in their workbook.) What if the color has lightened 2 or more levels? (Listen for: precoloration) Page 54 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Color Balancing Show Slide 36: Refresh Color refresh color • Apply Full Spectrum™ Permanent to new growth • Process • Emulsify through midlengths and ends for 2–5 minutes • Rinse, shampoo and condition 29 Direct participants to PAGE 29 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s talk about refreshing color first, which will follow a new growth application or retouch. This is probably one of the most common color processes you do at the salon when guests return for their color maintenance appointments. Let’s review the steps: Apply Full Spectrum Permanent to the new growth. Process for the recommended time. Add water and emulsify through the mid-lengths and ends for 2–5 minutes. Rinse, shampoo and condition. Ask: Are there any questions about refreshing color? © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 55 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Color Balancing Show Slide 37: Reestablish Color reestablish color • Apply Full Spectrum™ Permanent to new growth • Two options at mid-lengths and ends: – Permanent (1:1 ratio with 5 volume Color Catalyst) – Deposit-Only Color Treatment (1:1 ratio with Color Treatment Activator) • Process for last 20 minutes of processing time • Rinse, shampoo and condition 29 Direct participants to PAGE 29 in the Participant Workbook. Ask: When might you need to reestablish a guest’s hair color? (Listen for: when a guest is getting a new growth touchup and the hair has faded 1–2 levels or lost tone) Say: Reestablishing the hair color follows a slightly different process than refreshing color and can use both Full Spectrum Permanent and Deposit-Only Color Treatment. Let’s review the steps: Apply Full Spectrum Permanent to the new growth. At the mid-lengths and ends, you have two options: – Apply the same shade of Permanent in a 1:1 ratio with 5 volume Color Catalyst – Apply a matching Deposit-Only Color Treatment in a 1:1 ratio with Color Treatment Activator. Page 56 Process for the last 20 minutes of the retouch processing Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Color Balancing time. Rinse, shampoo and condition. IMPORTANT NOTE When refreshing reds, using the new growth formula to refresh/reestablish may be a better option. Or you could create a customized formula using Universal ØN and the Pure Pigment/Pure Tone to provide tone over previous color. Show Slide 38: Color Balancing Guide color balancing guide 30 Direct participants to PAGE 30 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Another tool to help you is the Color Balancing Guide, found in the Hair Color Chart and also in your workbooks. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 57 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Color Balancing IMPORTANT NOTE Review the Color Balancing chart, explaining when you would use different options and pointing out how the formulas range in translucency. Remind learners that this chart is just a starting point, but their creativity is the limit. Ask: Are there any questions about color balancing? Say: Now we’re going to talk about another post-treatment option— toning. Page 58 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Toning inform Show Slide 39: Post-Treatment: Toning post-treatment: toning • Refine blondes • Create fashion colors 31 Ask: How many of you have had to adjust the tone of a hair color after the first process? Direct participants to PAGE 31 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Toning is a common process when blonding and creating true fashion colors. If you look at the Vibrancy Chart in your workbook, you’ll notice that it shows how to create true fashion colors over prelightened hair and how to tone prelightened blondes for more subtle effects. The tone of a hair color is essential to a successful color outcome—even the slightest variance in color can mean the difference between beautiful and not-quite-right results. Toning the hair occurs after prelightening the hair or as the second step in a double process, and you can use both © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 59 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Toning Permanent and Deposit-Only Color Treatment to refine or enhance the tone. Show Slide 40: Toning Chart toning chart 32 Direct participants to PAGE 32 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s review how to create a toning formula for subtle blonde results. Ask: How many of you currently tone your blondes? Page 60 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Toning Show Slide 41: Formulation: Toning formulation: toning 1. Determine Stage of Enlightenment achieved 2. Determine the desired tone to refine or enhance 3. Select the correct formula from the Toning Chart 32 Say: This is a process that is essential when you have a bit too much warmth for very light results or not enough warmth for more buttery, golden blondes. Please follow along with the Toning Chart in your workbook as I review the steps: Determine the Stage of Enlightenment achieved. This can also be seen visually on the hair. – TIP: Don’t formulate your toning formula until the hair is dry. Slight shade variations on these extremely light formulas can appear darker when wet. Toning in the bowl sometimes covers a world of sins, but it will not produce optimum results and can result in another corrective scenario or unnecessary application. Direct participants to PAGE 33 in the Participant Workbook. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 61 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Toning Say: Determine the desired tone to refine or enhance. There are two ways to tone: – To refine tone: Select Natural, Ash or Intense Ash shades. Ensure that the hair has the proper N.R.P. to support the intense ash or ash tones. If it is not yellow/orange or yellow, select a soft formula or use natural for refinement. – To enhance tone: Select Gold or Copper shades. Select the correct formula from the Toning Chart. Ask: Can you think of an example of when you would want to refine the tone? What about when you want to enhance the tone? (Accept any answers.) Show Slide 42: Two Systems for Toning two systems for toning Full Spectrum™ Permanent Full Spectrum™ Deposit-Only Color Treatment 33 Direct participants to PAGES 33-34 in the Participant Workbook. Page 62 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Toning Say: Once you’ve determined your toning formula, the application and processing will vary depending on if you use Full Spectrum Permanent or Deposit-Only Color Treatment. Ask: When would you use Permanent to tone? (Listen for: to create a slight shift in lift and removal of remaining warm tones on lighter levels; deeper penetration of color molecules) When would you use Deposit-Only Color Treatment? (Listen for: when the hair needs condition or when no additional lift is required—just deposit) Say: Let’s review the application and processing for each one: Permanent – Mix formula with 10 or 20 volume Color Catalyst in a 1:1 ratio – Virgin on-the-scalp application: Apply on dry or damp hair from new growth to ends. – Retouch on-the-scalp application: Apply on dry or damp hair in the newly retouched area only and to the mid-lengths and ends as needed. – Process at room temperature for up to 30 minutes. Deposit-Only Color Treatment – Mix formula with Color Treatment Activator in a 1:1 ratio. – Apply from new growth to ends. – Process at room temperature for 20 minutes. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 For toning and creating true fashion colors, you will mix Page 63 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Toning Pure Pigments and 5 volume Color Catalyst in a 1:1 ratio and process for 20 minutes. Ask: Are there any questions about toning blondes and creating fashion colors? practice Show Slide 43: To Tone or Not to Tone? to tone or not to tone? • Was the hair prelightened to the correct level? • If not, what is the proper level? • What is the final formula to achieve the desired result? 34 Direct participants to PAGE 34 in the Participant Workbook. Run the Toning Activity: Divide the learners into 4 groups and assign one of the toning scenarios below to each team. Explain that the each group’s goal is to determine: – If the prelightening step was the proper level of lightness to achieve the best desired result. If not, they need to determine the proper level. – The final formula to achieve the desired result. Page 64 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatments: Toning Scenario 1 – Natural Level: 4 – Desired Level: 9 Ash – Prelightened to Level 9 (a very warm, strong yellow) Scenario 2 – Natural Level 4 – Desired Level: 10 Neutral – Prelightened to Level 10 (pale yellow) Scenario 3 – Natural Level: 4 – Desired Level: 8 Orange – Prelightened to Level 9 Scenario 4 – Natural Level: 4 – Desired Level: 6 Red – Prelightened to Level 7–8 Have each group share their scenario and answers while the rest of the group follows along in their workbooks. Coach to the following answers with regards to prelightening: – Scenario 1: Not light enough to go ash – Scenario 2: Correct – Scenario 3: Too light – Scenario 4: Too light Because the final formulas are subjective, ensure each group has created a correct formula. For scenarios that required a different prelightening result for the first step, be sure to elaborate and refer to N.R.P. and how it supports the concept and delivers the correct outcome. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 65 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatments: Toning Say: Great job everyone! We’ve covered every type of pre- and post-treatment with the exception of the essential final step in any hair color service —a Botanical Therapy hair treatment. Page 66 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy inform Show Slide 44: Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy post-treatment: botanical therapy 35 Direct participants to PAGE 35 in the Participant Workbook. Ask: Looking at your Color Talk Profile, what are some things you might notice during the hair analysis that would identify a guest who might not be a good candidate to receive a color change service? (Listen for: porous hair, dry hair, poor elasticity, damaged hair, multiple color services, etc.) Say: Even guests with hair in good condition can benefit from additional moisture and strength after a hair color service. That’s why Aveda created the Botanical Therapy Hair Treatments to be an essential part of every hair color service— they are ideal for every type of hair color guest. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 67 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy Bring the Botanical Therapy products to the front of the room and highlight each one as you review it. OPTIONAL: Show Hair Treatments chapter from Botanical Therapy DVD. Say: These conditioning hair treatments deeply penetrate the hair shaft and infuse it with strength, moisture and shine in just five minutes—making them an essential part of a hair color service and an easy way to enhance your guest’s service experience. You should recommend a treatment to EVERY hair color guest. There are two different treatments, depending on the hair’s condition: Dry Remedy Penetrating Moisture (for dry hair) Damage Remedy Penetrating Protein (for damaged hair) For the guest whose hair is too damaged to proceed with their desired color service, a Botanical Therapy hair treatment is an option that will get them on the path to get the color service they want in the future. Do not send them away without offering this service and the home care products they need to get their hair back in shape. For the guest whose hair is in good condition for a color change service, I’m going to quickly review how to perform the treatment during the color service—you can follow along with the service snapshot in your workbooks. Page 68 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy Show Slide 45: How to Perform the Treatment how to perform the treatment Step 1 • Shampoo with Color Conserve™ Shampoo and pHinish Step 2 • Section the hair into quadrants, spray treatment on ¼-inch subsections and slide fingers along the strand Step 3 • Gather entire section in hand, and spray to saturate ends Step 4 • Comb through all the hair, and process for 5 minutes Step 5 • Rinse and finish the hair 37 Direct participants to PAGE 37 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The treatment happens at the shampoo bowl right after you’ve rinsed the color from the hair: Shampoo with Color Conserve Shampoo and pHinish and towel-dry the hair well. Pour 15 ml of the selected treatment into the applicator bottle. Section the hair into quadrants and spray the treatment on ¼-inch subsections. Place the subsection between your two fingers, and slide along the length of the strand. Gather the entire subsection in your hand and spray until the ends are thoroughly saturated. Then gently squeeze the hair. Once you’ve applied the treatment to all quadrants, comb through the hair and process for 5 minutes. This is a great time to perform a Stress-Relieving Hand Ritual on your guest. Then simply rinse and finish the hair as desired. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 69 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy Ask: Why should you offer a Botanical Therapy treatment to every hair color guest? (Listen for: improves the hair’s condition, is a quick and easy service add-on that can increase your revenue, if they love the results, they will ask for it again, etc.) practice Direct participants to PAGE 36 in the Participant Workbook. Say: The best time to recommend a Botanical Therapy hair treatment is during the consultation. It is an extra service that the guest will pay for, so it is important to position it as essential to beautiful hair color. Using your consultation steps and the Color Talk Profile, it is easy to have this conversation. Refer back to the profile you filled in with your partner earlier and take a minute to practice what you would say. Pair up with your partner and practice offering the service to each other. (Give learners a few minutes to practice and take notes in their workbooks.) Ask: Would someone like to share how they would offer a Botanical Therapy hair treatment to their guest? Page 70 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Hair Color Solutions Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy Say: If you’d like to learn more about the Botanical Therapy treatments—including treatments for the scalp and thinning hair—be sure to take the Color Talk Featuring Botanical Therapy class for more in-depth training on Botanical Therapy. Ask: Are there any questions about the Botanical Therapy hair treatments? practice Show Slide 46: Practice practice Say: Before we break for lunch, we’re going to take everything you just learned and apply it to some guest scenarios. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 71 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Post-Treatment: Botanical Therapy Run the Guest Scenario activity: Have the learners find a partner. Hand each pair two Color Talk Profiles with the hair analysis and desired result sections completed (you will have prepared these in advance). Instruct the learners to complete the Color Talk Profile for each scenario using each other as guests and work together to determine the hair color plan for each scenario, including pre- and post-treatments. Have each group share their scenario and results. Gain feedback from the rest of the group and coach as needed. Say: Great work everyone! Let’s take our lunch break. After lunch, you’ll get to practice solving hair color challenges on models/mannequins with Aveda Hair Color. Take a 1-Hour Lunch Break Transition to Model / Mannequin Workshop Page 72 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Model / Mannequin Workshop Goal The purpose and goal of this module is for learners to practice solving hair color challenges and perform color change processes on models/mannequin heads with success. Time 3 Hours Overview Practice color change services on models/pre-done mannequin heads, solve any ―Unsolved Challenges‖ as a group and review key concepts by creating hair color superheroes in groups. Materials Needed © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 See the Required Materials list at the beginning of this guide. Page 73 Model / Mannequin Workshop Leader Guide Workshop extend Show Slide 47: Workshop workshop IMPORTANT NOTE You will run only one of the workshops below depending on if you are using models or pre-done mannequin heads. Run the Model Workshop: Page 74 Assign 1-3 learners per model. Go around the room and have each group complete a Color Talk Profile for their model while the rest of the learners follow along on a blank Color Talk Profile. Have the entire group identify the challenge and determine the correct formula together, including measurements. Once all model formulations are complete, have the groups begin their applications. Walk around the room and coach as needed. Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop During processing, return to the ―Unsolved Challenges‖ flip chart and try to solve the challenges as a group. Run the Pre-Done Mannequin Workshop: Divide the group into three teams and assign each of them one of the pre-colored mannequin heads: – Lightened to level 8 with 1–2 inches of new growth – Darkened to level 3 with 1–2 inches of new growth – Darkened to 4 V/R Inform the learners that the desired result is a 5 Golden Brown (5 Y/O). Go around the room and have each group complete a Color Talk Profile for their mannequin head while the rest of the learners follow along on a blank Color Talk Profile. Have the entire group identify the challenge and determine the correct formula together, including measurements. Once all mannequin head formulations are complete, have the groups begin their applications. Walk around the room and coach as needed. During processing, return to the ―Unsolved Challenges‖ flip chart and try to solve the challenges as a group. Bring the “Unsolved Challenges” flip chart back to the front of the room. Direct participants to PAGE 38 in the Participant Workbook. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 75 Model / Mannequin Workshop Leader Guide Workshop Say: While your models/mannequins are processing, let’s go back to our collection of unsolved hair color challenges. We’re going to try and solve them as a group based on everything you learned today. IMPORTANT NOTE Have different learners read the Post-it Note challenges out loud to the group and discuss possible solutions using the flip chart. Coach as needed and help the group determine successful solutions and write them in their workbooks. refine Show Slide 48: Presentations presentations Page 76 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop IMPORTANT NOTE When everyone is finished, have each group present their results back to the entire class. Then ask the entire group the questions below after each presentation to debrief. Ask: Do you think they successfully solved the challenge? What do you notice about the results? What would you do differently next time? Show Slide 49: The Big Challenge Review the big challenge review 39 Ask: Remember our big challenge from the beginning of the training? Do you think you have enough information to solve it now? © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 77 Model / Mannequin Workshop Leader Guide Workshop Say: At your tables, I want you to take a few minutes and try to come up with a hair color plan that will achieve the desired shade of 6 Y/O Dark Golden Blonde. (Give learners 10 minutes to complete the activity.) Ask: Who thinks they may have solved the Big Challenge? (Accept any answers.) Show Slide 50: The Big Challenge Reveal the big challenge reveal 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Cleanse 4 R/O to Red/Orange Cleanse 5N to Red/Orange Rinse and apply Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution Precolor 9 V/B and 10 Y/O areas with 6 R/O Rinse and apply Damage Remedy™ Equalizing Solution Apply 6 Y/O (Permanent) to new growth Remix 6 Y/O (Permanent) and apply to mid-lengths and ends 8. Apply a Botanical Therapy hair treatment 39 Direct participants to PAGE 39 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Let’s reveal the answer and write it down in your workbook: Page 78 Cleanse 4 R/O to Red/Orange with ―lighten 2 levels‖ hair color cleansing formula. Cleanse 5N to Red/Orange with ―lighten 1 level‖ hair color cleansing formula. Rinse, shampoo and towel-dry the hair. Apply 1 oz of Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution and comb to distribute. Precolor 9 V/B and 10 Y/O areas with 6 R/O Dark Copper Blonde. Use Full Spectrum Deposit-Only Color Treatment or Permanent for the precoloration formula, and process 10 to 20 minutes. Rinse well and towel-dry. Apply 1 oz of Damage Remedy Equalizing Solution and comb to distribute. Apply 6 Y/O Dark Golden Blonde (Permanent) with 20 volume Color Catalyst to new growth. Process 45 minutes. Remix 6 Y/O (Permanent) with 20 volume Color Catalyst. Apply to the mid-lengths and ends. Process for the last 30 minutes of new growth processing. Apply a Botanical Therapy hair treatment. Say: Remember that solving hair color challenges is about simply creating an even base so that the desired result can be applied and create the look the guest desires. Ask: Are there any questions about the Big Challenge? perform © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 79 Model / Mannequin Workshop Leader Guide Workshop Show Slide 51: Create a Hair Color Superhero! create a hair color superhero! 40 Direct participants to PAGE 40 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Being a hair colorist is all about saving the day with smart solutions and creating gorgeous hair color results that your guests will love. When a guest comes in expecting a specific result, it’s your job to deliver—no matter what challenges rise up along the way. In this way, you are all hair color superheroes. For our final activity today, I want you to create your own hair color superhero. You’ll find some illustrations in your workbook to get you started. Run the Superhero activity: Have learners work in groups at their tables. Instruct learners to create a hair color superhero including the following: – Name – A list of ―superpowers‖ they need to successfully solve any hair color challenge Page 80 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop Give the groups 10-15 minutes to create their superhero in their workbook and write in their superpowers. Have each group present their superhero to the rest of the group. Ask: Which hair color superpowers do you think are the most important? (Accept any answers.) Say: Congratulations everyone! You have now learned how to solve any hair color challenge with Aveda Hair Color! Show Slide 52: Learning Objectives learning objectives • Explain how to use Aveda Hair Color systems to solve common hair color challenges • Perform the 6 consultation steps using a Color Talk Profile • Formulate and apply hair color changes with success 4 Say: Let’s review our learning objectives. Now that you’ve completed the training, you should be able to: Explain how to use Aveda Hair Color systems to solve common hair color challenges Perform the 6 consultation steps using a Color Talk Profile Formulate and apply corrective hair color with success © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 81 Model / Mannequin Workshop Leader Guide Workshop Direct participants to PAGE 41 in the Participant Workbook. Say: Before you go today, I want you to create a list of action items that you will do when you return to your salon. You can use your superhero drawings as inspiration. Think about the pretreatments and the post-treatments and write down an action item for each one in your workbook that will help you improve your skills in each area. (Give learners a few minutes to create their action items.) Take a few minutes and share your ideas with the people at your table. I encourage you to share these action items with your salon owner or mentor so they can help hold you accountable for what you’ve learned today. Ask: Are there any final questions? Show Slide 53: Hair Color Solutions Thank You Slide thank you! Page 82 Hair Color Solutions Leader Guide Model / Mannequin Workshop Workshop Say: Thank you for your participation and enthusiasm during today’s training. I hope you are feeling confident to return to your salon and overcome any challenge with these new solutions and Aveda Hair Color! IMPORTANT NOTE Hand out certificates and remind learners to complete their course evaluations. © 2011 Rev. Date 10/19/2011 Page 83