DIY PATIO CHAIR
Thanks for downloading the DIY Patio Chair Plans!
The complete Youtube video and project tutorial photos to go along with these plans can be
found at​ ​http://www.diypete.com/patiochair​ ­​ I invite you to make changes to the plans as
you find necessary to best fit your needs. Good luck with the project and have fun building
it! Please post project photos on the Facebook page at
www.facebook.com/DIYPROJECTSWITHPETE​​ or elsewhere tagged with #​DIYPETE
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Tools Needed
*Please note ­ By using these links to purchase tools you are helping support
DIYPete.com.
Miter Saw​​– I’d recommend a 12 inch sliding, miter saw.
Drill​​– I use R​yobi drills.​
Orbital Sander​​– Ryobi makes a nice one.
Kreg Jig​ (Optional)
Circular Saw​ – Could be used in place of a miter saw
Table Saw​ ­ To rip the side strips
Speed Square
Tape Measure, Ruler, Pencil
Eye and Ear protection, Mask
Clamps​​– Clamps are helpful for any project.
Shopping List:
Qty 4: 2x4x8 boards $9/board: $36
Qty 1: 2x6x8 board $14/board: $14
Qty 1: 1x6x6 board $11 /board: $11
Qty 3: 1x4x8 boards $9/board: $27
Total wood cost (rates vary around all parts of the world): $88
Want to save money? Use Pine, Fir, or Spruce: Approximate cost: $42
Wood glue $4.00
1 pound (1 box) 2 ½ inch wood screws $6.00
Stainable wood putty $3
Sandpaper (120/220 grit) $6
Deck stain or wood finish of your choice: 1 qt: $15
Total Approximate Cost for all project
Materials/Supplies: $122 (does not include tools)
Cheaper Option ­ Pine / Fir / Spruce: $76
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Approximate Overall Dimensions: 33” wide x 28” deep x 35 1/4” tall
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Cut List
Qty 2 ­ 24” long x 3 ½” wide x 1 ½ inch ( front legs ) ­ Then cut notches
Qty 1 ­ 28” long x 5 ½” wide x 1 ½ inch ( front horizontal support )
Qty 2 ­ 25” long x 3 ½” wide x 1 ½ inch ( armrest supports )
Qty 2 ­ 24 7/8” long (from angle to angle as shown in diagram) x 3 ½” wide x 1 ½ inch (
rear legs )
Qty 1 ­ 25” long x 3 ½” wide x 1 ½ inch ( rear horizontal support )
Qty 3 ­ 20 9/16” from straight end to outside angle (15 degree angle on one end of board)
(seat supports)
Qty 2 ­ 24 1/16” from angle to angle long ( as shown in diagram ) x 3 ½” wide x 1 ½” thick
15 degree angles (backrest supports)
Qty 6 ­ 22” long x 3 ½” wide x ¾ inch thick. (Will need to rip 1 of the boards on a table saw)
(backrest slats)
Qty 5 ­ 25” long x 3 ½” wide x ¾ inch thick (Will need to rip 1 of the boards on a table saw)
(seat slats)
Qty 2 ­ 25 ⅝” long x 5 ½” wide x 34 inch thick (armrests)
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Build the front section
Cut two 2x4 boards to 24 inches long. Measure up from the bottom 10 inches and make a
mark. Then measure up 5 1/2 inches and put another mark. You’ll measure back 1 1/2
inches. This will be the notch for a 2×6 board that will connect the front legs. Please note
that a 2×6 board is actually 1 1/2 inches thick and 5 1/2 inches wide. A jigsaw works well
for cutting the notches.
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Cut a 2x6 board to 28” long. A 2x6 board is 1 ½ inches thick by 5 ½ inches tall. Use wood
glue and 2 ½ inch wood screws to attach the boards. I used two screws for each joint.
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Add the chair armrest supports
Attach the two armrest supports. I actually like to flip the leg assembly upside down so I
can use a table or flat surface to hold the boards in place, and to help keep them square at
90 degree angles. Use 3 screws from the inside and wood glue for each armrest support.
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Rear legs
Cut the rear legs. The legs have 15 degree angles that are parallel to each other. Set your miter saw
to the 15 degree setting.
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Use clamps to hold the legs in place while you line them up. Measure 12” back from the
inside of the front leg. The rear leg is placed at that mark and lined up so the angle is flush
with the top of the armrest support. The leg needs to rest evenly on the ground.
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Connect the rear legs with the 25” long support. Measure up 8 ½ inches from the table surface.
Clamp the support in place and then attach from the outside using wood glue and screws. The lower
corner of the support board should be flush with the front of the rear leg. The support board should
be oriented straight up or at 90 degree angle to the ground.
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Seat Supports
I used 3 seat supports. One for each end and one in the center. The front of the board is cut
at a 90 degree angle, and the others are all 15 degrees. Connect the two outer supports to
the legs with screws. The board should be parallel to the ground, and should rest evenly
and level on the rear support board. The inside of the 15 degree angle should be close to
even with the back side of the support board. (as shown below)
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Attach the center seat support. Pre­drill and use screws/wood glue from an angle . Angle
the screw through the support and into the front 2x6 and rear support as seen in the video.
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Backrest Supports
Cut and add the backrest supports. I used 2 of them. Cut 15 degree angles at each end. You can
then cut two 30 degree angles on top to give it a rounded over appearance (see second diagram
below). You can then use the board as a template to cut the second backrest support so you get the
same exact angles on the top. These angles are just for looks, so if they don’t turn out perfect it’s
okay. You could round over the tops with a coffee can and jigsaw if you’d prefer.
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Here you can see the tops. I basically used a miter saw to cut two 30 degree angles to round
over the tops. Use wood glue and screws to attach the backrest supports to the seat
supports and to the armrest supports. After attaching, feel free to trim off the back of the
arm supports so they match up perfectly with the backrest. You can do this before
assembling if you’d prefer.
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This is how it will look once the ends are trimmed off. The armrest support has a length of
24 ⅜” to the outside angle.
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Make Seat and Chair Back
Use 1×4 boards to make the seat and chair back. A 1×4 board is actually 3/4 inches thick
and 3 1/2 inches wide. I prefer to make the backrest first, followed by the seat. Use 1/4
inch spacers to evenly space each board. Use a table saw to rip down the width of 1 or 2
boards if needed to make them fit perfectly. Always pre­drill. I chose to rip the lowest
board. The backrest slats are 22” long.
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Start at the front of the seat and move your way back. Overlap the front board about a 1/4
of an inch. Rip the farthest back board if needed. The boards are each 25” long.
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Shape and Attach Armrests
Round the front of the armrests. A paint can works perfect for this process. I decided to do
a 45 degree angle on the back side of the armrest. Cut the angle with a miter saw. The front
of the armrest should have a 1 inch overhang. The back is flush with the support. The
armrests are 25 3/8 inches long from front to back.
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Finish Work
Fill the screw holes with stainable wood putty. Apply a finish of your choice. Deck/Fence
stains work well for outdoor furniture. You may also paint or apply the finish that best fits
your needs.
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Enjoy
You’ve done the work, now enjoy your new DIY Patio Chair! Modify your build as needed
and share this project with your friends. Thanks for following along and be sure to check
out the free blog post and video tutorial at​ ​http://www.diypete.com/patiochair​.
Cheers!
Thanks so much for checking out the DIY Patio Chair plans. I’d love to hear how your
project goes! Please post photos on Facebook at ​www.facebook.com/diyprojectswithpete
and subscribe to my Youtube channel at ​www.youtube.com/diyprojectswithpete​.
Cheers from Montana,
* Please refer to the post at http://www.diypete.com/patiochair and check out the
video tutorial for more information, instructions, and tips.
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http://www.diypete.com/patiochair​ ­ Copyright 2016 ­ DIY PETE, LLC