ZAMBIAN OPEN UNIVERSITY
SCHOOL OF AGRICULTURAL SCIENCES
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
INTERNSHIP REPORT
----------------------------------------------------------------------------PERIOD
: 20TH AUGUST TO 20TH NOVEMBER, 2018
STUDENT NAME
: SIKANYIKA KELVIN
STUDENT NUMBER
: 21670656
CONTACT ADDRESS : MINISTRY OF AGRICULTURE
BOX 9
SEHEKE
CELL NUMBER
: +260979649896 AND +260954632015
DATE
: 27TH NOVEMBER, 2018
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
DEDICATION…………………………………………………………………………….. …3
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT…………………………………………………………………....4
OBJECTIVES………………………………………………………………………………....5
METHODOLOGY……………………………………………………………………………5
INTRODUCTION…………………………………………………………………………….6
BACKGROUND………………………………………………………………………………7
SESHEKE CITRUS PROJECT………………………… …………………………………..8
RAISING ROOT STOCKS AND BUDDING ……………………………………………..12
TRAINING IN SUSTAINABLE ORGANIC AGRICULTURE………………………….15
MANURE, COMPOST, BOKASHI, AND EXTRACTS…………………………………..17
GREEN MANURE CROP ......................................................................................................28
LIQUID SUPER FERTILIZER………………………………………………………..........29
AGROFORESTRY/ SOIL AND WATER CONSERVATION.....................……………..31
NATURAL PEST AND DISEASE CONTROL MANAGEMENT……………………….32
TRAINING IN ORGANIC VEGETABLE PRODUCTION………………………………34
MUSHROOM PRODUCTION………………………………………………………………40
TRAININIG WWF FARMERS IN VEGETABLE PRODUCTION …………………......45
SESHEKE SEED BANK PILOT PROJECT……………………………………………….48
CHALLENGES………………………………………………………………………………54
CONCLUSION AND RECOMMENDATION……………………………………………..55
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DEDICATION
This report is dedicated to my family especially my wife (MANDA HARRIET) for the
support rendered to me during and after my internship program. Despite the financial
challenges faced during this period, my wife kept encouraging me not to be distracted
by any negative situation. From her small business, she provided the family with
enough food stuffs and groceries to sustain the family when I was away.
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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The initiative exhibited by Zambian Open University to send potential graduating
students for internship program prior to their graduation is very much appreciated as it
pre-exposes the student to the expected workload in the pursued agricultural career
and better still, it instills a sense of self confidence and humor in the successful student
when dealing with agricultural programs.
I appreciate the goodwill and efforts of the University staff engaged in the internship
program.
My gratitude is extended to the following:

Mr. Mambo the head of department for Agriculture, and Dr. Chinonge the lecturer
for Horticulture for providing guidance on how the internship program should be
carried out, and for the support and knowledge availed to me.

Mr. Kamusaki Peter the District Agricultural Coordinator (DACO), and Mr. Monde
Roy the Senior Agricultural Officer (SAO), for allowing me to do my internship
program with Ministry of Agriculture, Sesheke District.
I further extend my gratitude to the following:

KASISI Agricultural Training Centre management for hosting and training us in
Sustainable Organic Agriculture (SOA), and Organic Vegetable Production for two
weeks.

Mr. Muleya Josbin (Principal Agricultural Supervisor) for the training in
Conservation Agriculture (CA) and for providing me with other Agricultural
knowledge during my internship.

Miss Dorothy Mwambazi the Climate Change and Resilience Officer working for
World Wide Fund (WWF) for including me in their Various Agricultural programs
during my internship.

Mwanamambo David the Action Aid Coordinator (Sesheke District) for involving me
in their various Agricultural activities during my internship.
Lastly but not the least, I thank my workmates, friends, fellow students, and all those
who contributed to the successful completion of my internship Program. I thank them
all most sincerely. .
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OBJECTIVES
The main objective of this report is to provide the exact information on the activities
which were conducted, lessons learned, problems faced and the knowledge obtained
during the internship (attachment) period.
METHODOLOGY
Mostly leaning was through participation, listening, observation, and demonstrations.
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INTRODUCTION
Internship or Field Attachment Program (FAP) was introduced by the Zambian Open
University (ZAOU) to pre-expose prospective graduates to real field situations and to
prepare us to face the agricultural work challenges and workload more diligently in the
pursued Agricultural career.
This report provides details of the activities that were undertaken during the internship
program which commenced on Monday, 20th August, 2018 and ended on 20th,
November, 2018 (3 months) in Sesheke District with the Ministry of Agriculture.
Diagrams, tables and pictures are used in the report as a means to explain some
details concerning some activities. The information presented in the report is about
field crop production, Horticulture crop production, post-harvest crop management, and
Agribusiness Management which were conducted according to the assignments
allocated to me during the internship period. However, some of the activities conducted
in my own time are also included. These include Mushroom production and tomato
production.
It must be clearly noted that the report does not serve as a reference book, however,
the terms used herein and the activities reported on are all about the activities that
were conducted during the period stated above and might be synonymous or not with
reference books.
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BACKGROUND
Sesheke is geographically located at 17˚29” south and 24˚13” East in the southern part
of western province, sharing international borders with Namibia and Angola. The
district lies in the Barotse sub basin and covers 11, 252 square kilometers and has
9,582 households with a total population of 43,489 (21,472 males and 22,017 females)
this is from Central Statistics Office 2010. The district is situated 670km from Lusaka
and 310 km south of the provincial capital (Mongu). Sesheke District is in Region I
(one) of the ecological zones of Zambia with average annual rainfall of 710mm and
average temperature of 36oC. The area under cultivation is estimated to be 27,000 ha.
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ACTIVITIES CONDUCTED DURING THE INTERNSHIP PROGRAM
HORTICULTURE CROP PRODUCTION
A) SESHEKE CITRUS PROJECT
This was a government project under climate change, adaptation and mitigation
program which was initiated to benefit 30 schools and 130 farmers in Sesheke District.
A total of 12,000 seedlings which were budded at Namushakendi Farm Institute in
Mongu were to be distributed to schools in Sesheke and each school was earmarked
to receive 200 orange seedlings.
Project Objectives
The main objective of this project was to promote growing of citrus fruits (oranges) as
an alternative source of livelihood for the Sesheke District people.
Specific Objectives
 To capacity build the communities in orange production
 To establish orange tree orchards in 30 schools and 130 farmers in 13 agricultural
camps (10 farmers per camp).
The project was implemented by the Ministry of Agricultural, Ministry of lands and
Natural resources (Forestry) and Ministry of Education with the Ministry of Agriculture
taking the leading role.
Collection of orange seedlings from Mongu
Seedlings were collected from Mongu (Namushakendi farm institute) on 28th August
2018. The first school to benefit was Kachola Primary.
DEMONSTRATIONS ON HOW TO PLANT ORANGE SEEDLINGS IN SCHOOLS
The demonstrations started on the 3rd of September 2018. The objective was to
demonstrate to school authorities, pupils and parents on how to plant and care for
orange seedlings and to build capacity to the school authorities, pupils and parents on
the benefits of orange trees.
MATERIALS USED.
The following are the material used during the demonstration:
1. Kraal manure
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2. Black soil from the plain edge
3. Dead plant materials (grass of leaves)
4. Spades and shovels
5. Hoes
6. 25m measuring tape
7. 25 m rope
8. 110 x 50 cm pegs
PLANTING PROCEDURE
Site selection
The site was selected based on the soil type, soil fertility, and Surface and subsoil
drainage.
Marking the plot
A right angle was made at the starting corner using the 4-3-5 method. A spacing of 6m
x 4m was used. Inter row spacing of 6m and intra row spacing of 4m were marked. The
ploughed area gave us 10 rows and each having 20 station giving us 200 planting
stations.
Digging of holes
60cm (length) x 60cm (width) x 60cm depth planting holes were dug. As we dug, top
soil was separated from the sub soil as shown in the pictures below.
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Sub soil
Top soil
Sub soil
Back filling of Holes
A 10 cm layer of dead plant material (grass/leaves) was put at the bottom of the pit.
This is to improve drainage and aeration of the soil. The black soil was mixed with
manure at the ratio of 1:1 because the soils were too sandy. The pit was filled with this
mixture leaving only 10cm from the top to make a basin for watering. About 20 litres of
water was applied in each basin prior planting.
Back filling
Planting seedlings
Holes, slightly bigger than the diameter of the pot holding the plants were made on the
centre of the filled basin. The polythene bag holding the plant was cut top to bottom
and placed in the planting hole. This is done with care to avoid damaging the roots.
After putting soil around the plant, the polythene bags were carefully removed. We
applied at least 10 litres of water in the basin. Pour the water along the edges of the
basin so as not to disturb the soil around the newly planted seedling. A 5cm layer of
dry plant material was put as mulch in the basin after planting. This is to reduce
evaporation of water from the basin.
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With instructions and supervision from us (Agricultural Officers), the school authorities,
pupils and parents present took turns in planting the other seedlings.
Management of citrus plants
After planting, Mr. Muleya (the Principal Agricultural Supervisor) took time explaining
on the general management of young plants. The following points were emphasized:

To remove all plant growths shooting from below the budded position as what
grows below the budded position is lemon and not orange.

To irrigate the plants twice per day (in the morning and in the evening) for the first 5
days. When the plants establish (after 5 days), irrigation should be done every after
2 or 3 days depending on the condition as too much water would harm the plants.

To control pests and disease especially orange dog caterpillar, aphids,
grasshoppers and damping off disease.
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The process was the same in other schools where we demonstrated on digging of
planting basins and the actual planting of citrus trees. .
B) RAISING ROOT STOCKS AND BUDDING OF ORANGES
This practical was done with Miss Lungowe a horticulturist in Sesheke who raises
seedlings of different plants for sale. The Ministry of Agriculture (Sesheke District)
introduced and attached me to this knowledgeable expert to enable me acquire the
necessary skills and knowledge in budding.
RAISING THE ROOT STOCK
Seed Extraction procedure
The seeds were extracted by opening up a ripe rough Lemon fruit. The fruit should be
cut 1/3 from the top to avoid cutting the seeds if you were to cut the fruit half way as
shown in the picture below. The seeds were washed in clean tap water to remove the
shrine and the concept of density was applied where floating seeds were removed
because they are not viable. Seeds were then treated with the fungicide (Dithane M45).
We then dried the seeds in the sun for 10 days until the moisture content reduced.
Avoid cutting into 2 halves
Primary nursery for raising root stock
A primary nursery is a nursery that is made for the purpose of raising root stock. It is
made for the purpose of germinating lemon seed on the ground.
Rootstock is defined as the plant onto which the scion is inserted, and it produces the
root system and lower trunk part of the tree. Rootstock part not only provides
anchorage and nutrient supply to the budded or grafted scion wood but also possess
ability to withstand salinity, water stress, nematode, phytophthora rot and others.
Rootstocks must be grown from seed only.
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Process
A seedbed of 1m wide and 5m long was made on the ground and then 5 kilogrammes
of kraal manure were applied per metre squared and incorporated in the soil. Planet
(an insecticide) was applied and incorporated in the soil to control harmful soils
organisms like nematodes and then leveling was done and the bed was watered.
Sowing
A row spacing of 20cm and the intra row spacing of 5cm were used and seeds were
planted at 2.5cm deep. Seeds germinated and emerged after 5 weeks.
Secondary nursery
The seedlings were transplanted to the secondary nursery (polythene bags) when they
were 6 weeks old.
Preparation of soil for to use in the pots

Soil and Cow dung manure were mixed in the ratio 1 to 1.If poultry manure is
used, mix the manure and soil in the ratio 1 to 3 respectively.

Fill the pots and apply water.

Transplant the seedlings
Fertilizer application
Fertilizer was applied 2 weeks after transplanting. 6 to 8 grains are applied away from
the plant.
Secondary nursery
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BUDDING
Budding was done on the Lemon seedlings which were 5 months old on the secondary
nursery. This secondary nursery was planted way back before I started my internship.
The rootstock had reached pencil thickness.
Budding was done at 20-25cm height form the ground to avoid the union from touching
the ground and to increase the life span of the fruit tree.
Materials Used




Secateurs
Budding knife (Red one)
Surgery razor
Parafilm tape
Process of budding
A bud wood was selected from a disease free, high yielding tree. The variety was
Washington Navel which bares sweet and big fruits.
Rejected Budwood


Selected health Budwood source
The Budwood was selected and cut from the source (Healthy Orange tree) using a
.Secateur.
Using a budding knife, an invented T or T were made or cut on a root stock at 20
cm from the pot (ground). Invented T and a T were both used on different root
stocks for practical purpose.
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
Good health and best buds were selected and cut together with the wood part and
inserted in the T and Invented T cuts on a root stock. Knowledge on how to cut the
bud, the T cuts and how to insert the bud in the T cut was gained.

Sterilize the wound after budding. But this was not done due to lack of a chemical
such as Ethylene Oxide and chlorine breach.

Using parafilm tape, the inserted buds were carefully tied without leaving any part
uncovered. On some plants, transparent plastic was used leaving out the growing
point or shooting point. The two were used for learning purpose.
After 15 days, the shoots emerged by breaking the parafilm tape. 19 buds out of the
207 buds died, representing a 90% success rate which impressed Miss Lungowe.
ACTIVITIES DONE AT KASISI AGRICULTURAL TRAINING CENTRE
The Ministry of Agriculture, Sesheke District attached me to Kasisi Agricultural training
Centre to undertake a training in Sustainable organic agriculture and Sustainable
Vegetable Production from 1st October to 12th October, 2018. The training was
sponsored by SCAF (a non-governmental Organisation promoting organic food),
Ministry of Agriculture, and Kasisi Agricultural Training Centre.
TRAINING IN SUSTAINABLE ORGANIC AGRICULTURE
This training was undertaken from 1st October to 5th October. The training was so
compacted and had so many practicals to undertake.
Sustainable Organic Agriculture (SOA) was defined as a farming system which is
environmentally friendly, economically viable and socially just.
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Environmentally friendly: The quality of natural resources is maintained. The resources
are used in a way that minimizes losses of diversity, nutrients, biomass and energy and
avoids pollution. It also means that the health of the entire ecosystem is enhanced and
sustained.
Economically viable: Farmers can produce enough for own consumption and a surplus
for sale to gain sufficient cash to cover the cost of production and have enough money
to cover their needs.
Socially just: This means that Sustainable Organic Agriculture (SOA) is an equitable
system for all people including future generations. In SOA a farmer is urged to think of
how his/her farming system is affecting those around him/her; those involved in the
production process; those to use the land/natural resources after him/her and how the
produce would affect the consumers.
The question was why should we practice Sustainable Organic Agriculture (SOA)?
To answer the question, issues of Land degradation, Population growth, High cost of
external inputs versus the high rural poverty levels, Imbalances in the ecosystem, Poor
nutrition at household and national level, Climate change, Stability of production/High
yield with low year to year variability, and Toxic effect of chemicals were discussed to
justify reason for practicing SOA.
Principles and practices of SOA
The three (3) principles of SOA which are: Soil Fertility Management, Soil and Water
Conservation, and Natural Pest and Disease Management were discussed in details
during the training.
Benefits of SOA
Economic benefits, Environmental benefits, and Social benefits were discussed in
details. Steps on how a farmer can convert from conventional Agriculture to
Sustainable Organic Agriculture were also discussed.
Soil organic matter
The following topics were discussed under this topic:

What soil is,

composition of a typical ideal soil,

what Soil Organic Matter (SOM) is, and
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
Importance of soil organic matter in the soil.
The following Functions of Soil Organic Matter were given:

Supply of plant nutrients

Retention of plant nutrients

Retention of moisture

Improves nature of sandy and clay soils

Provision of food for soil organisms

Improves taste of produce and crop pest tolerance

Protects the soil against drastic negative changes
Practices to improve soil organic matter
The following practices were said to improve soil organic matter: Animal manure
application, use of Compost, practicing Agroforestry, Mulching, use of Extracts and
teas.
C) MANURE, COMPOST, BOKHASHI AND EXTRACTS
i.
ANIMAL MANURE
On this topic, we learnt what manure is, the nutrient content of animal manures,
application rates, Handling and storage of animal manure.
ii.
COMPOST
Here we defined compost as a mixture of organic materials decomposed by
microorganisms in a warm, moist, and aerobic environment in a process called
composting. Topics on compost making included: importance of Composting, Basic
principle of compost-making, what happens in a compost heap, and the compostmaking process.
THE COMPOST-MAKING PROCESS
A demonstration on compost making was the conducted. There is no single, fixed
way of making compost as it will depend on the materials available. However, there
are principles that should be applied in making compost so that it is successful.
Here are some guidelines for successful compost-making:
Site location
An assignment was given to me by the tutors to select the site. The site for making
a compost heap should be as near as practically possible to the fields where the
finished compost will be applied.
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This saves time and labour in carrying the
compost to the fields. The site should also be near a source of water for watering
the heap when turning it and near to the source of the raw materials for making the
compost, for example livestock housing or crop residues.
Mobilization of materials
We gathered the materials for making the compost at the proposed site for the
heap. A mixture of different kinds of materials is needed for the compost heap and
should comprise of dry plant materials, green plant materials, some coarse plant
materials and animal manure.
Preparation of materials
Bulky materials such as maize stalks were cut up into pieces no larger than 10 cm
otherwise they would take too long to break down and larger pieces will still remain
intact when the rest of the materials have decomposed.
Bulky materials were
easily cut up using a hoe and a panga into smaller pieces. Fresh green materials,
such as grass, weeds, leaves or vegetable trimmings were used without
preparation.
Materials that were used for making compost
 Dry plant materials: straw, hay, crop residue, hulls, agro industry bi-products
(dusts, cakes, dry rejects)
 Green plant materials: weeds, biomass from trees/shrubs, vegetable residues,
fresh rejects, green grass.
 Animal manure as a source of nitrogen and micro-organisms to breakdown the
organic material in the compost pile
 Water (moisture) to keep the micro-organisms alive.
Materials not to be used for composting are:
 Infected plants, poisonous plants (castor beans), plant materials which take too
long to breakdown, acidic and toxic plants (acacia and eucalyptus), plants
containing substances that interfere with decomposition (pine needles)
 Cat and dog manure – contain pathogens
 Inorganic materials e.g. plastics
 Hazardous materials such as old batteries, razor blades, chemical wastes, etc.
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Process of making a compost heap
a. Collect materials to be used and assemble near the selected site for building the
compost heap
b. Measure and mark the desired dimension of the heap. The maximum dimensions
of a compost heap are 1.5m width and 1.5m height. The length is dependent on
what the farmer can manage. Put long pegs in the four corners of the heap to
direct and hold the heap.
c. Clear the marked area
Step by step laying of materials
Step 1: Place chopped materials of dry twigs/maize stalks to height of 15 – 30 cm
from the ground. This layer is basically to help effectively aerate the heap. In most
cases materials in this layer do not completely break down by the end of the
composting process.
Step 2: Place a thick layer of dry vegetation such as grass, leaves or any crop residue
(brown material) as a source of carbon, to a height of 15 – 25 cm.
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Step 3: Add water – enough water should be added to thoroughly moisten the brown
material. It should be noted that throughout the process of laying the materials, water is
always added after each layer of brown materials.
Step 4: Put a 5 -10 cm thick layer of manure. The manure is the main source of
nitrogen and the amount to put is largely guided by the thickness of the brown layer
and the quality of manure. The idea is to achieve the desired Carbon/Nitrogen ratio in
the compost heap.
Step 5: Add a 10 – 15 cm thick layer of fresh materials (greens), preferably legumes.
This layer helps to kick-start the microbial activity by providing readily available food to
the microbes.
Step 6: Sprinkle some forest soil or mature compost to the heap to introduce beneficial
microbes. This step is optional.
After step 5 or step 6 repeat the process starting with Step 2 – the browns. Continue
until the heap is about 1.5 m high.
Step 7: Cover the whole heap with a layer of grass to protect from direct sunlight and
rains. If the heap is made under a shade and there is no danger of rain, then it might
not be necessary to cover the heap.
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Step 8: Take a long, sharp stick and drive it into the pile at an angle. After two to three
days, decomposition should have started in the pile. The stick, when removed, will be
warm to hot. The stick helps to check on the conditions of the pile from time to time. It
will show if the pile is hot or cold, wet or dry.
After step 8, the process of making the heap is complete.
Turning the compost
After the compost-heap making process has been completed, the heap needs to be
turned regularly. The temperature in the compost heap is the key determinant of the
composting process and a good guide as to when to turn or correct any observed
problems. Two to three days after making the compost heap, remove the inserted stick
and immediately place it on the back of your hand. Based on how hot the stick feels,
the following can be done:
a. If the stick feels warm or hot and the smell is good, the temperature is normal for
the compost and good decomposition has started.
b. If the stick feels cool or cold and there is a foul smell, the temperature is too low
for good decomposition. This might mean either that the materials are too dry or
there is insufficient N-rich materials. Use the squeeze test to check if there is
adequate moisture. If the moisture is enough, then the problem is that of
insufficient Nitrogen. Turn the compost and add more Nitrogen-rich materials.
c. If the squeeze test produces two to three drops of water, there is sufficient
moisture. If there are no water drops, then the moisture in the heap is
insufficient, turn the compost heap and add water as you turn especially after
the dry layers are turned.
d. If the stick is warm and wet, and there is a bad smell like ammonia, this
indicates that there is too little air and/or too much water in the compost. The
materials will be rotting and not making a good compost. Collect some more dry
plant materials and/or some old dry compost. While turning the compost, add
these materials.
e. If the stick feels too hot and can’t be held continuously for a few seconds, it
might mean there is too much N-rich material and the inner of the heap is
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burning or about to burn. Turn the compost and add more brown materials
immediately.
f. If the compost heap is heating-up normally, turning should be done 10-14 days
after building the heap. The best way to determine when to turn is by constantly
checking the stick. If after reaching the peak temperature normally about 65 to
700C, the temperature of the stick starts dropping, then you know that it is time
to turn.
Turning is done by putting the top layers down and turning the material in the
centre outward while the outside material should go towards the centre. The
materials will decompose faster if the compost pile is turned regularly. Spray
the heap as you turn with a fine mist of water. The compost should be ready
after the fourth turning or approximately six to eight weeks.
Note: although it is always preferred to have well-decomposed compost, we should
know that compost that has undergone the full decomposition process is very good for
adding organic matter to the soil, but normally has a low nutrient content and might not
provide the soil life with the food that they need. At times it is preferable to have
partially decomposed compost as it has a higher concentration of nutrients and might
provide the microbes in the soil with food (decomposable organic matter) that they
need.
D) BOKASHI
Bokashi is improved compost. The word bokashi is from the Japanese language
and, in the case of fermented organic fertilizers, it means precooking the organic
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matter in its own steam, taking advantage of the heat generated by fermentation.
It may also mean the pre-digestion of organic matter through the heat generated
by decomposition. Bokashi is produced using low-cost resources and used to
restore and maintain soil fertility.
advantage
that
the
The short time of preparation is one major
bokashi
has
over
composting.
A theory lesson was done were we learnt on the Ingredients and materials
required in the preparation of Bokashi, Step-by-step guide to make bokashi,
Application and storage of bokashi, How to store bokashi, and Advantages of
using bokashi.
Ingredients and materials required in the preparation of Bokashi
1. Soil – preferably clay soil – 20 x 50kg
2. Poultry manure, goat or cow dung (or a mixture of the different manures) – 20
x 50kg
3. Crushed charcoal – 1 x 50 kg
4. Bran (wheat, rice, oat) or straw, or a mixture of bran and straw- 20 x 50kg bag
5. Molasses (the thicker the better) or unrefined cane sugar, preferably brown
sugar 5-10 liters
Molasses mixed with Yeast
6. Yeast (instant clover, dried yeast) -1 kg
7. Rock dust or wood ash (the finer the better) - 25 – 50kg
8. Fresh water (non-chlorinated), apply according to the squeeze test – apply
only once.
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Note: These quantities are not fixed, but can be varied depending on the amount of
bokashi one wishes to make and the availability of the materials.
STEP-BY-STEP GUIDE TO MAKE BOKASHI
This was a practical lesson were a demonstration on how to make bokashi was
conducted at Demo garden of Kasisi Agricultural Training Centre.
 The site where Bokashi is to be made should be protected from the sun, wind
and/or rain, as these might interfere with the fermenting process, halting it or
affecting the final quality of the Bokashi.
 Lay the ingredients layer by layer and mix. The layers should be shoveled
enough to ensure a homogeneous mix.
 The height of the heap should not exceed 1.2 m.
 The heap should start heating-up gradually after 3 to 4 hours. Peak
temperature (600C) can be reached after approximately a day. Temperatures
should not exceed 600C as the material might start burning. Temperature can
be controlled by slightly spreading the materials (reducing the height of the
heap) or by increasing the number of turning per day.
 Under normal circumstances, the heap should be turned and mixed twice a
day for the first 3 to 5 days. Reduce the number of turning to once a day after
the first 3 – 5 days.
 Turn and mix for 15 days, (a bit longer during cold seasons). At the end of the
process the heap should neither be moist nor hot.
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 After about 15 days, the bokashi is ready to be used.
Application and storage of bokashi
The rate of application will depend on the type of crop. Ensure the bokashi is covered
after application.

Leafy vegetables – 80-100g pure (not mixed with soil) bokashi. This can be done
in the furrows, beds or basins. In nursery pots – Mix 1 part bokashi with 4 parts
soil. Apply 50-80g per pot.

For transplanting tree seedlings – ratio of 3:2 bokashi to soil. Apply 250600g/hole prior to transplanting.

For maize, broad beans and other grain crops – apply a double hand per crop

For headed vegetables (cabbage, broccoli and cauliflower) – apply 100 to 150g of
bokashi per plant

For tree crops, apply a mixture of one part bokashi and one part soil
How to store bokashi
It is recommended that farmers use bokashi immediately after it has been prepared as
the material will be of high quality. However, if there is need to store the bokashi, it is
advisable that it is covered to protect it from the sun, wind and rain.
Advantages of using bokashi
 Does not pose a danger to the environment , the soil and water as it does not
contain toxic substances
 Takes a shorter time to prepare than compost
 The slow release of plant nutrients ensures that nutrients are available to plants
over a long period of time
 Contains not only macronutrients but also micronutrients
 They improve the structure of the soil, and thus reduce surface run-off and
increase water infiltration
 Bokashi stimulates and accelerates plant growth
 The plants grown are healthy and vigorous and do not easily succumb to
diseases because of the balanced nutrition (minerals, hormones, vitamins, and
enzymes) provided by the bokashi.
E) EXTRACTS AND TEAS
25 | P a g e
Animal manure, compost, green manures and other solid organic inputs have a
limitation when it comes to the quick release of plant nutrients. The term “slow
releasing fertilizer” is normally used to refer to these materials.
The major advantage of releasing nutrients slowly is that these materials help
protect plant nutrients from loss due to leaching and other mechanisms and avail
the nutrients to plants slowly. There are, however, times when the crop needs
nutrients quickly such that the solid organic inputs are unable to release them on
time. In such cases compost or manure extracts become very handy.
Compost and manure extracts
Compost and manure extracts are liquid fertilizers prepared by soaking compost,
animal manure or nutrient-rich leafy materials in water for a number of days. During
the preparation of the extracts, nutrients dissolve in water. The idea behind the
making of extracts is to supply nutrients to the crop in a readily-available form so
that crops can quickly take them up.
Note: Compost tea is very similar to extracts in that it is also a liquid input.
However, compost tea differs from extracts in that the primary purpose of making
teas is not to supply soluble nutrients, but rather to supply beneficial microorganisms. The making of compost teas is an aerobic process that requires
constant supply of oxygen. Additionally there is also need to add microbial food
source such as molasses, kelp (sea weed ash), rock dust that are added to the tea
to boost microbial growth and activity. In this handout, teas are not discussed in
details.
The process of making extracts
Extracts can be made from compost, animal manures, plant materials or a
combination of two or all of these materials.
Plant materials that make good
extracts are leaves from green manure crops (velvet, jack beans, etc.); leaves from
agroforestry species (26unhemp26r, Moringa, Leucaena, Sesbania); and at times
non-leguminous plants such as Comfrey and Tithonia that are known to contain a
lot of plant nutrients.
The following is a step-by-step guide that was followed on how to make extracts:
1. Put 20-30kg of manure/compost/desired leaves in a porous bag
26 | P a g e
2. Suspend the bag from a stick laid across the top of a 210 litre drum
3. Fill the drum with water. The bag should be completely submerged in the
water.
4. Shake the bag 2-3 times a day by moving the stick suspending the bag up
and down (for increased release of nutrients in water and for aeration).
5. Cover the drum with a material that can keep out flies, but allows aeration.
6. Keep the sack under the water at all times.
7. The extract should be ready to use after 7 to 15 days.
8. The residues of compost, manure or leaves in the sack can be used as
input in the compost heap or in the field.
Application of extracts
The extract can be drenched on the crop by applying it to the base of the crop using a
knap sack sprayer whose nozzle has been removed. In case one does not have a knap
sack sprayer, a bucket and a cup can be used.
There is hardly a danger of over-applying extracts as the nutrient concentration is
normally below levels that could endanger plants. The amount to apply per plant or
planting station should therefore be guided by the farmers’ experience depending on
the fertility status of the soil and the type of crop. Other factors to consider are the
amount of extract available and the labour requirement for the application of the
extract.
Below are some examples of application rates of extracts:
Field Crops: For crops such as cotton and maize, you can start applying as soon as
your crops start germinating and continue until the crops are mature. In the dry season
apply once a week and make sure the soil is moist at application. Apply twice a week
in the rainy season.
Vegetables:
You can start applying immediately after transplanting to help plants
recover from transplanting shock. Thereafter, you can continue applying your extract
once a week until your vegetable crop matures.
Benefits of using extracts
 Nutrients are made readily available to crops and are taken up rapidly
 Easy to prepare
27 | P a g e
 Relatively less labor required
 Prepared from wide range of materials, many of which are locally available
 Extracts can be used to overcome problems of leaching as nutrients are
supplied in small but readily available amounts.
Note: extracts alone may not be enough to sustain good plant growth hence should
be used in combination with other soil fertility management practices that ensure
increase in soil organic matter such as compost, animal manure, green manure,
and others.
F) GREEN MANURE/COVER COPS
There is no clear distinction between green manures (GMs) and cover crops (c.c.). A
cover crop is a crop grown specifically to protect and/or enrich the soil rather than for
short economic gains. However, when the cover crop is either turned into the soil at
flowering or cut and left on the soil surface while still green, it is called a green manure.
Benefits of using Green Manure /Cover Crops
 It is a good alternative or supplement to the use of compost or animal manure –
green manures are a good way of improving and maintaining soil fertility especially
for farmers who do not have livestock or cannot make compost.
 Green manures, just like compost, animal manures and other organic means of
managing soil fertility, improve the soil organic matter content and thus can impart
all the good properties to the soil as highlighted in section 2.
 As opposed to the use of animal manure and compost, green manures/C.C.s can
additionally provide soil cover and thus play key functions in crop production such
as:

Reduction of water evaporation and soil temperature

Increased water infiltration

Protection of soil from erosion

Suppression of weeds

Provision of suitable habitat for soil life

Create good environment for beneficial insects thus playing a role in the
reduction of pests and diseases.
28 | P a g e

Seed for green manures/cover crops can be sold to give farmers some
additional income. From the agronomic point of view, soil fertility is improved
more when the Green Manure/Cover .Crops is cut prior to, or just at flowering.
However, for economic reasons, it is common to harvest the seed and only
return the remaining biomass to the soil.

Some deep-rooted green manure/cover crops will help to break the hard pan
and bring nutrients that were washed to deeper regions of the soil close to the
surface where they can be used by shallow-rooted crops.

Some Green Manure/Cover Crops can be used as feed for livestock and others
are even consumed by humans.
Crops used as green manure/cover crops
A key characteristic of green manure or cover crops is that they are legumes. A special
trait of legumes is that bacteria living in their roots are able to fix (incorporate) nitrogen
from the air into the soil. The nitrogen is then held in the plant. The fixed nitrogen is
then availed to the following crop when the legume dies and decomposes.
Legumes to be used as green manures can either be edible or inedible. One needs to
note however, that there is always a challenge with the use of edible legumes as green
manures or cover crops due to the harvesting of the grain which reduces the amount of
nutrients the particular green manure/cover crop will return to the soil.
The green manure/cover crops that were planted at Kasisi include:
a)
Velvet beans
b)
Black sunhemp
c)
Red sunhemp
d)
Pigeon peas
e)
Lablab:
f)
Cowpeas
g)
Tephrosia and
h)
Green gram
Pigeon Peas
G) LIQUID SUPER FERTILIZER
According to Eunice, the organic fertilizer expert at Kasisi, liquid bio- fertilizer has a lot
of balanced energy mineral hormone.it builds up the fertility of the soil so that the soil
29 | P a g e
can produce a healthy crop while also making key minerals available through
fermentation process in which chelation takes place. Liquid bio-fertilizer also nourish,
recover and re activate life in the soil.it strengthens plant fertility and healthy while
acting to stimulate crop protection against insect attack and disease.
INGREDIENTS
To make this fertilizer, you need an airtight drum. Without it, you cannot make the
fertilizer successfully.

2 to 4 litres milk

40kg very fresh cow dung manure

4 kg wood ash or phosphide

180 litres water
PROCEDURE

Fill the airtight drum with 180 litres of water and add the ingredients. The mixture
should be in an airtight plastic drum.

Mix or dissolve the ingredients by steering until you obtain a homogenous mixture.

Cover the drum to start anaerobic fermentation of the fertilizer and connect the
gas release system with the horse and water seal as shown in the picture below.

Leave the drum containing the mixture to rest in the shade at ambient
temperature. Protect from sun and rain.

Wait a minimum of 30 days of anaerobic fermentation to take place.

Open the drum and check the quality of the liquid bio-fertilizer. Quality is
determined by the smell and color before. The smell must be that of fermentation,
alcoholic pleasant one. The colour should be amber and translucent. A white
clean form may be seen on top when you open.
30 | P a g e
APPLICATION

Apply this fertilizer by drenching in 2 weeks intervals.

1 Litre of the solution is diluted in 20 litres of water.
H) AGROFORESTRY
On this topic, we defined Agroforestry as the integration of trees and shrubs with crops
and animals in farming systems in order to sustain production for increased social,
economic and environmental benefits for farmers at all levels.
We also learnt about Fertilizer trees (how fertilizer trees help in the management of soil
fertility), Fodder Banks, Woodlots, Propagation of trees, caring for young seedlings,
Agroforestry and
beekeeping,
Common agro-forestry practices used
in
the
management of soil fertility, and many other aspects of agroforestry.
Some agroforestry trees that were grown by Kasisi included Sesbania sesban,
Tephrosia vogelii, Cajanus cajan, Gliricidia sepium and Leucaena leucocephala,
andFaidherbia albida.
Some of the Agroforestry Tree gown at Kasisi
I) SOIL AND WATER CONSERVATION
This was one of the most interesting lessons because soil and water are very important
resources without which agricultural production would not be possible. There is,
therefore, need to use and manage these resources in a sustainable manner.
The following topics were discussed:
31 | P a g e
What conservation means, importance of soil and water conservation, Principles of soil
and water conservation (Disturb the soil as little as possible, Cover the soil as much as
possible, Mix and rotate crops), and practices used in soil and water conservation
(Minimum tillage, Zero tillage, Contour principle, Maximum soil cover, Conservation
basins and many others), and the Benefits or importance of soil and water
conservation.
J) NATURAL PEST AND DISEASE MANAGEMENT
Insects and diseases are part of the natural ecosystem. In the natural ecosystem,
there is a balance between predators and pests. This is nature’s way of controlling
species populations. The creatures that we call pests and the organisms that
cause disease only become of concern when their activities affect crop yields
economically. If the natural environmental system is imbalanced then one
population can become dominant because it is not being preyed upon (eaten).
The aim of natural pest and disease management is to restore a balance between
pests and predators and to keep pests down to an acceptable level.
Kasisi uses natural pest and disease management because of the following:
a) Cost: Using natural pest and disease control is often cheaper than applying
synthetic chemical pesticides because natural methods do not require
buying expensive materials.
b) Safe for people: There have been many reports of people suffering from
different ailments as a result of exposure to synthetic chemical pesticides.
c) Safe for the environment: the use of chemical products to control pests
and diseases has many detrimental effects to the environment.
The Methods used at Kasisi to control pests and diseases are as follows:

Preventive measures which includes use of resistant varieties and genetic
diversity, making the soil healthy so that the soil grows a healthy crop, Crop
rotation, Good hygiene, Companion planting (Push-Pull system, plants that
produce pungent smell to repel insects for example, onion and Garlic),
Plants to attract predators and parasites (Flowers such as 32unhemp32r,
32 | P a g e
buckwheat, marigolds, sunflower, 33unhemp as well as local legumes are
useful attractant plants), Social prevention, Barriers (for crawling insects),
Baits and traps.

Curative methods which includes mechanical control (hand picking and
squashing), Release of natural predators, Antagonistic Microbial sprays,

Traps, Barriers, and Botanical pesticides.
Botanical pesticides used at Kasisi (Recipes of natural remedies)
Ingredient
Neem (Azadirachta
indica)
Tephrosia vogelii
Sanke
beans(Ndale)
(Swartsia
madagascariensis)
Carica papaya
(pawpaw)
Capsicum annum
(Chili)
Allium sativum
(Garlic)
Wood ash
Euphorbia ttirucalli
(Ulunsonga)
Pyrethrum
33 | P a g e
Preparation
Mix 80g of pounded neem seed with one
liter of water and allow it to stand for 12
hours. Strain with a cloth and use as a
spray
Pound 1 bucket (20 l) of fresh loosely
packed leaves and mix with 20 liters of
water. Allow to stand for 12 hours. Strain
through cloth and dilute 1 part of liquid to
4 parts water then use as spray
Pound 50g of leaves and mix with 1 liter
of water. Allow to stand for 24 hours and
strain through cloth. Apply as a spray.
Effectiveness
Effective against
bollworms, fall army
worm and stalk borers
Pound 1 kg chopped leaves and add 1
liter of water. Allow to stand for 6 hours,
strain through cloth, and add 50g soft
soap. Dilute 1 part to 4 parts water and
spray during cool periods.
Pound 100g ripe fresh chilies and add 1
liter of water and cover. Shake well and
allow to stand for 12 hours. Strain and
dilute with 5 liters soapy water, use as
spray during cool periods.
Grind 3 to 4 bulbs and mix with 1 liter
water. Allow to stand for 24 hours. Strain
and dilute with 5 liters of soapy water.
Apply around plants or sprinkle on
leaves.
Effective against rust
Chop stem-like leaves and apply in
planting holes.
Soak 500g dry pyrethrum flowers in 4
Effective against aphids,
cutworms and termites.
Apply preventive once a
week.
Effective against
termites, jassids, and
aphids.
Effective against ants,
aphids, beetles, weevils,
mosaic virus and
cabbage worm. Caution:
may scorch plants.
Effective against aphids,
wireworm and bean rust
Effective against
termites, ants and
aphids.
Effective against
cutworm.
Effective against aphids,
(Chrysanthemum
cinerariifolium)
liters water. Allow to stand for 24 hours.
Strain and use as spray in equal parts
with garlic spray.
beetles, bugs, hoppers,
caterpillars, worms,
locusts, thrips, bean fly,
fruit fly.
K) TRAINING IN ORGANIC VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
This training was undertaken from 7th to 12th October. A lot of practical skills in
organic vegetable production were learnt during this training.
The topics covered under this training included the following:

What organic farming is?

How vegetables can be grown the organic way

General principles of vegetable production

What makes organic gardening different

actors affecting vegetable production

Classification of vegetables

Importance of Organic Matter, Green Manure Crops and Biomass Transfer in
organic vegetable production

How to increase soil organic matter (green manure crops, Examples of
Green Manure Crops, Why use green manure crops, Limitations to green
manure crops, Biomass Transfer and many others).

Organic vegetable crop husbandry practices
-
Site selection for organic vegetable nursery
-
Lay Out of an Organic Vegetable Garden
A practical was conducted where each group presented their own Layout of an
organic vegetable garden.
COMPOSTING SITE
Senna siamea hedge
marigold, mint, lemon grass, peppers, dill, coriander, comfrey, citronella, aloe vera,
hedgerow
3.1
T
Hot pepper
I
T
H
2.1
Carrot
P
A
t
H
1.1
5m
Tomato
10 m
marigold, mint, lemon grass, peppers, dill, coriander, comfrey, citronella, aloe vera, basil
34 | P a g e
M
hedgerow
O
3.2
N
Tomato
2.2
1.2
Green beans
Onion
I
O
R
2m
I
A
N
marigold, mint, lemon grass, peppers, dill, coriander, comfrey, citronella, aloe vera, basil
hedgerow
H
3.3
E
Spinach
2.3
Carrot
1.3
G
A
Carrot
D
H
G
E
marigold, mint, lemon grass, peppers, dill, coriander, comfrey, citronella, aloe vera, basil
hedgerow
E
3.4
Tomato
2.4
Onion
1.4
Tomato
D
G
E
marigold, mint, lemon grass, peppers, dill, coriander, comfrey, citronella, aloe vera, basil
hedgerow
3.5
Carrot
2.5
Green maize
1.5
sunnhemp
ROSEMARY HEDGE
PUMP
STREAM

Seedbed preparation and layout

Planting

General principles of irrigation –Water requirements of crops- Types of
irrigation systems (Sprinkler systems, Furrow systems, Drip systems,
buckets and treadle pumps etc.)

Nutrition – compost/manure and leaf tea application

Crop protection

Principles of pest and disease management in organic vegetable production.
Cultural practices, physical, chemical, Biological
Some useful natural enemies of pests used at Kasisi
35 | P a g e
Name of
insect
Pest preyed
upon
Comments
How to attract
Very common, globally
Aphid midge
Aphidoletes
aphidimyza
distributed, and hardy nearly Plant nectar-producing
Over 60 species of
to the Arctic circle.
plants; shelter garden from
aphids
Especially attracted to
strong winds; provide water
aphids in roses shrubs, and
during dry spells.
orchard trees.
Assassin
Many insects, including
Robust, voracious insects,
Provide shelter with
bugs
caterpillars, flies
with strong beaks to attack
perennial species
(family:
prey; will squeak when
Reduviidae)
handled; can inflict a
painful bite.
Bigeyed bugs
Aphids, small cater-
They may resemble
Collect them from pigweed
Geocoris spp.
pillars, leafhoppers
tarnished plant bugs or
or goldenrod stands and
spider mites, tarnished
chinch bugs; their big block
transfer them to your gar-
plant bugs. -
eyes are a distinctive trait.
den; plant alfalfa, clover; or
soybeans as cover crops or
borders
Braconid wasps
Aphids, armyworms,
Rigidly mummified aphids
Grow nectar-producing
(Family
beetle larvae, codling
or dying caterpillars with
plants with small flowers.
Braconidae)
moths, European corn
white cocoons stuck to their
borers, flies, gypsy
backs are signs that
moths; imported
braconids have been at
cabbage worms, other
work.
caterpillars and insects.
Damsel bugs
Aphids, small
These approximately half
Collect them from alfalfa
(Family Nabidae)
caterpillars, leafhoppers,
inch, gray or brown bugs are
fields and transfer them to
plant bugs, thrips,
common and important
your garden; plant and
treehoppers.
predators in orchards and
alfalfa border around the
alfalfa fields (where you
garden.
can collect them for your
garden).
Ground beetles
36 | P a g e
Most prey on soil
Exceptionally long-lived
Provide permanent beds,
(Family
dwelling pests, such as
(adults live up to 2 years),
plant sod pathways, and
Carabidae)
cabbage root maggots,
most active at night.
allow some weeds,
cutworms, slugs and
especially pigweed;
snails; some pursue
minimize tillage during the
aboveground pests,
growing season; plant white
such as Colorado-potato
clover as a groundcover in
beetle larvae, gypsy
orchards.
moths, tent cater pillars
Hover flies/flower
Many species of aphids.
These insects hover over
Plant pollen- and nectar-
flies (Family
flowers and dart away like
producing flowers and
Syrphidae)
miniature hummingbirds
encourage weeds such as
They often lay eggs in
wild carrots and yarrow;
young
Ichneumon wasps
Caterpillars, sawfly and
Although most ichneumon
Plant pollen- and nectar-
(Family
beetle larvae, other
wasps are very small, some
producing flowers; grow
Ichneumonidae)
insects
are frighteningly large with
flowering cover crops in
long, threadlike ovipositors
orchards.
trailing behind; they cannot
sting people.
Lacewings
Soft-bodied insects-
The delicate adults flutter
Plant pollen- and nectar-
Chrysoperla
including aphids, mealy-
erratically in a zigzag flight
flowering weeds such as
(=Chrysopa spp.)
bugs, thrips-small
through the garden at dusk;
dandelions and goldenrod;
caterpillars, mites, moth
their voracious larvae are
provide a source of water
eggs, some scales.
known as aphid lions.
during dry spells.
Lady beetles
Aphids, mealy bugs, soft
Lady beetles abound in
Plant pollen- and nectar-
(Family
scales, spider mites.
many sizes and colors,
producing flowers; allow
including solid black, ash
weeds such as dandelions,
gray, and yellow or orange
wild carrots, and yarrow;
with black spots or irregular
protect eggs, larvae, and
blotches.
pupae on plants.
Coccinellidae)
Minute pirate bug
Small caterpillars, leaf-
These plentiful, black and
Plant alfalfa or other pollen-
( Orius fristicolor)
hopper nymphs, spider
white harlequin bugs are
producing plants;
mites, thrips, eggs of
easy to spot. Look for them
encourage goldenrod and
37 | P a g e
many insects.
in corn silks and stinging
yarrow
nettles; shake them into a
jar and release them in the
garden.
Rove beetles
Many prey on aphids, fly
Often mistaken for earwigs,
Maintain permanent
(Family
eggs, maggots,
rove beetles are usually
plantings to protect the
Stephylinidae)
nematodes, springtails;
smaller and hove no
local population; interplant
some are parasites on
pincers; more than 3,000
with cover crops or mulch
cabbage root maggots
species in North America.
planting beds; make
or other fly larvae
permanent pathways in the
garden
Soldier beetles
Aphids, beetle larvae,
Unlike most beetles, soldier
Keep pollen-rich plants and
(Family
including cucumber
beetles have leathery
weeds around the garden
Cantharidae)
beetles, caterpillars,
rather than hard wing
for adult feeding; keep
grasshopper eggs.
covers.
permanent plantings in the
garden to provide refuge
and protect pupating
beetles.
Spined soldier bug
Fall army worms,
These resemble stink bugs
Maintain permanent beds
(Podisus
hairless caterpillars,
but spined soldier bugs
of perennials to provide
maculivenms)
including tent
have sharp points on the
shelter.
caterpillars, sawfly
“shoulders” of the thorax.
larvae; beetle larvae
such as those of
Colorado potato beetle
and Mexican bean
beetle
Tachinid flies
Many species of cater-
One of the largest and
Grow plants rich in pollen
(Family Tachinidae)
pillars, including army-
most beneficial groups of
and nectar; leave some
worms, cabbage
flies, they are often
garden weeds, especially
loopers, cutworms,
mistaken for houseflies.
goldenrod, wild carrots, and
gypsy moths, tent
38 | P a g e
pigweed; don’t kill cater-
Tiger beetles
(Family
Cicindetidae)
caterpillars; also
pillars with white eggs stuck
Japanese beetles, May
to their bocks (the eggs will
beetles, sawflies,
become the next
squash bugs.
generation of flies).
Both adults and larvae
These insects are slow
Maintain permanent beds in
prey on ants, aphids,
developers; larvae spend
the garden as refuge; don’t
beetles, caterpillars,
2-3 years in their burrows
leave outdoor lights on all
flies, grasshoppers,
before becoming
night or use light traps,
spiders, other Insects.
spectacularly beautiful
because tiger beetles ore
adults with bright,
highly attracted to light.
iridescent colors.

Harvesting

Postharvest Handling of Organic Vegetables

Marketing of Organic Vegetables
GENETICALLY MODIFIED ORGANISMS (GMOS)
The objective of the session was to discuss the implication of genetic
modification and biotechnology on organic vegetable production. A number of
issues were raised on this topic as it attracted many questions.
END OF THE TRAINING AT KASISI
The training on Sustainable Organic Agriculture and Organic Vegetable
Production at ended on 12th October and the certificates were awarded to all
participants.
39 | P a g e
D. MUSHROOM PRODUCTION
This demonstration was conducted at Seheke Farmers Training Centre (FTC) with
Sesheke Central Block farmers. The target group was women.
The objective was to impart knowledge into the farmers on how to grow Oyster
mushroom. The specific object was to demonstrate to the farmers on how they can
step by step grow oyster mushroom.
Growing Conditions (Climatic Requirements)
Oyster mushroom is a tropical and subtropical mushroom. It needs a hot and humid
environment for growth. Therefore, the following growing conditions were provided in
order for the Oyster kit to produce mushrooms.
a) Housing It should be made with material that does not easily get heated up. In our
case, we used Grass and not Iron sheets. The house should not allow light in (in
order to maintain the temperature). It was made in special way in order to maintain
the humidity.
Materials used for construction of the Mushroom house

Axes

Fibre

Hoes

Poles

Spades

Sticks

Knives

Rails

Black plastic (linner)
Construction procedure
Firstly, the poles, grass and fibres were cut and brought to the sight. Then the poles
that hold the roof were erected first and then the roof was fixed. After roofing, we
erected other poles spacing them at 50cm apart. Sticks that hold the grass were tied
running horizontally. Then we cover the house with grass and tie the grass onto the
horizontal sticks and poles. Ensure that sunlight or lays do not penetrate or head the
substrates directly (avoid direct sunlight). We tied some rails were to hung the
substrate tightly poles. Then a door was also made using poles, sticks, and grass.
Using the black plastic (liner), we covered the inside of the house so that we prevent
the escape of moisture.
40 | P a g e
b) Light – Oyster mushrooms require light to grow. Place your Oyster kit in a well-lit
area to grow, but not in direct sun light. Regular strong reading light is sufficient.
Constant light is not necessary. It is fine to leave your kit in the dark overnight.
c) Temperature – the kit will grow mushrooms best at temperatures between 17 to 20
degrees. However, we did not have a thermometer to measure the temperature.
The only way we used to maintain the temperature was by spraying water
constantly around and inside the house using a sprayer.
d) Water – we watered the kit by sprinkling or spraying or misting water on to the
(substrate) kit’s surface once or twice a day. When the small oyster mushrooms
begin to force themselves out of the bag holes in 3-7 days, we increased watering
to 2-3 times a day. Air circulation is necessary for normal mushroom growth. The
lack of fresh air will prevent mushrooms from growing and produce long stringy
mushrooms. The liner will help keep some humidity around the fruiting mushrooms.
Be careful not to over water the kit before the baby mushrooms are formed.
Standing water in the bottom of your kit will encourage rot and contaminants to
grow.
e) Caution – Care should be taken when picking your mushrooms to ensure you are
not picking aborted or old mushrooms. These aborted and old mushrooms are not
edible. Only harvest and eat fresh looking mushrooms. All aborted and old
mushrooms should be removed from the kit surface and discarded after every
harvest. After you harvest the mushrooms keep the surface of the kit moist.
Maintain your kit as before and wait for another crop of mushrooms. The most
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productive mushroom crops are usually the first and second. Subsequent
mushroom fruiting may occur, over the following weeks, but fewer mushrooms will
grow as time passes and the mushroom nutrients are used up. (Some varieties of
oyster mushrooms only fruit one crop, but most will fruit 4-5 times).
f) Hygiene
It’s surprisingly easy to grow Oyster mushroom but you do need to take appropriate
precautions to make sure you are growing the right mushrooms and in a
hygienically safe way. Hygiene is the most important in Oyster mushroom
production. Ensure cleanliness in every step you take to avoid contamination.
Prepare your grow room and take a room that is not dusty or where you already got
problems with mold.
Materials used

Growing media- both grass straw and cobs (those that remain after shelling the
maize) were used. However, other media such as Bagasse, Dry Banana leaves,
Pea-straw, Rice straw, saw dust, and many others can be used. According to latest
research, the growing media has a significant effect on the yield of Oyster.

Row Kit packaging Material- Reusable robust transparent plastic bags, large size
were used for our demonstration. However, other materials such as sacks, black
plastic are used but transparent plastics are the best. Sacks are not recommended
because they lose too much moisture.

Oyster mushroom spawn – this was purchased from the University of Zambia Great
East Campus.

Spray bottle and water

Nail

tongs

Drum for cooking the substrate

firewood
Procedure used
STEP 1: We first cleaned the area where the activity was taking place by sweeping and
removing all the dirty.
STEP 2: we all washed our hands and cleaned all our surfaces well. It’s very important
to be hygienic when cultivating mushrooms, as you do not want to grow the wrong
types of fungi.
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STEP 3: Cut up the straw into small pieces around 1 to 3 inches in length. The cobs
were pounded in a motor to a very small size.
STEP 4: Pasteurization. This essentially means heating the straw in water to around
70-75 degrees (Celsius) and holding it at that temperature for around 45-60 minutes.
We used a drum to cook the substrates. Pasteurization kills the bad bacteria and
leaves the good ones.
STEP 5: After pasteurisation, we took out the substrates from the drum using tongs
and let it sit in a clean tub while it cools down. It’s important not put the mushroom
spawn into the straw until the straw is at room temperature otherwise you will kill the
spawn.
STEP 6: Spawning. When the substrate cooled down, we packed the robust plastic
bags with substrate quite tightly, and then distributed some of the mushroom spawn
throughout the straw. Don’t put too much spawn because doing so will just be a loss to
you. 1 bottle per 5 to 8 plastics does well. The substrate should not be dripping wet, but
it should still be damp from the Pasteurisation.
STEP 7: At this stage, we sterilised the nail (by pouring boiling water over it) and
jabbed holes in the bags every 5cm or so. This allows some air in.
STEP 8: we hanged packed plastic bags on the sticks that were tied or inserted for this
same purpose in the mushroom house during construction. We then kept them out of
direct sunlight. They like some indirect light and some research have reviewed that
they like it best at around 15-20 degrees Celsius.
STEP 9: Humidity maintenance. To ensure that the amount of water vapour in the
mushroom house is maintained, we poured and sprayed water in the room whenever
it’s dry. We also sprayed the kit frequently because we grew the mushroom in hot
season (Early November).
STEP 10: we then waited while the mushrooms spawn developed into mycelium and
beginning taking over the entire bag. Mycelium looked a bit like white furry cobwebs,
and we saw it start developing in the first couple of weeks. It’s important that your bags
of straw stay moist, but not dripping wet. Some researchers have reviewed that the
water from the pasteurisation is sufficient to keep the straw suitably moist without
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needing to spray with water but we constantly sprayed water because it was too hot in
Sesheke in the first two weeks of November.
STEP 11: After four weeks the mycelium had spread across the entire bags of
substrates. It is at this stage when mushrooms started forming. We cut some slightly
larger holes in the bag because the holes we had made were too small.
STEP 12: The mushrooms essentially doubled in size every day, within a few days,we
had good-sized oyster mushrooms. We kept misting them with water two or three times
a day over this period.
HARVESTING

The first picking was done when they reached a mature size. This took 4-7 days.

We harvested the mushrooms while their rims were still curled over a little and
pointing downwards. If their rims seem to be turning upward, it’s probably time to
harvest.
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
Be careful not to damage the growing medium’s surface.

To harvest the mushrooms, give them a twist at the base. This ensures that you
leave the very bottom of the mushroom still in bag. You want to leave that part in
the bag as it is needed for the subsequent flushes of mushrooms. We kept the bags
moist and in suitable condition, and we got four flushes of mushrooms although the
first and second flushes were the most productive.
E. TRAINING WORLD WIDE FUND FARMERS IN VEGETABLE PRODUCTION
World Wide Fund (WWF) is a non-Governmental organization based in Sesheke
District undertaken and supporting various projects within the District. Due to their
quest to curb malnutrition in the District, the organization formed a total of Seven (7)
Nutrition Groups in three Agricultural Camps namely Silumbu, Kalobolelwa, and
Katima. The Groups were empowered with various vegetable seeds i.e.
Amaranthus, Beans (Lutembwe), Carrot, Spinach, and Orange Maize. These crops
were preferred because of their high nutritive value. Some of the seeds were given
to individual group members to plant in their personal gardens.
As a horticulture student and an expert in the field of Agriculture, WWF through
Miss Dorothy Mwambazi the Climate Change and Resilience Officer, engaged me
to train the seven (7) nutrition groups for 2 weeks. Each group was trained for 2
days.
TOPICS DISCUSSED DURING TRAINING
No.
01.
TOPICS
Site selection
-
DISCUSSION POINTS
Select Fertile and well drained soils
-
Characteristics of fertile soil (Dark, well drained, high organic
matter content)
02.
Nursery
-
Garden should be near source of water to easy irrigation
-
The use of correct Nursery Inter and intra row spacing (to
management
produce healthy seedlings)
-
Pest and disease control (Fungal, viral, and bacterial
diseases), (Nematodes and other diseases causing
organisms found in the soil) should be controlled. A
diseased seedling is a dead seedling. Recommendations
were made on the best Pesticides, fungicides, Acaricides,
45 | P a g e
and Nematicides.
-
Irrigation (should be done with care to avoid washing away
the seeds). Water quality and quantities has an effect on the
health of seedlings.
03.
04.
Land preparation
-
Hardening and its importance
-
Should be well prepared (No clods)
-
Methods used (potholing, fallows, raised bed, flat beds etc.)
-
Importance of Leveling
Planting/
transplanting
Direct planting
-
Crops that should not be transplanted e.g. Carrot,
Amaranthus etc.
Seed that require a nursery
Cabbage, Tomato, Egg plants, Onion, Spinach, and Green
pepper.
05.
Fertilizer and
-
Age of transplanting (3 – 6 weeks for most vegetables)
-
Time of transplanting (evenings to avoid wilting)
-
Importance of irrigation before and after transplanting
-
Spacing for various vegetable crops
-
Importance of spacing
-
Farmers were encouraged to use available local Farm Yard
Manure
Manure (Kraal, Goat/ Sheep, and Chicken manure) and to
application
add chemical fertilizers to meet the crop nutrient
requirement, because the quantity of nutrients in Farm yard
manure and the rate at which nutrients are released is low.
Organic manure also improves water holding capacity and
soil texture. Application rates for both organic and inorganic
fertilizers were discussed.
06.
Irrigation
-
Importance of irrigation (water acts as solvent in which
nutrients dissolve, as media through which nutrients are
transported, and play other roles in the cells)
-
Quantity of water (too much leads to leaching of nutrients
and too less leads to wilting)
-
46 | P a g e
Irrigation intervals (depends on the soil and crop. Sandy
soils require frequent watering), mulching is cardinal to hold
water in the soil and reduce evaporation.
07.
Weed
-
management
Economic importance of weeds (Harbor pests and
diseases, compete with crops for nutrients and water,
compromise the quality of the produce due to
contamination)
08.
Pest and disease
-
Scouting and Pest/disease identification
Management
-
Chemical control (types of chemicals, disposal of
containers, cleaning of sprayers, the spraying gear, time of
spraying etc.)
-
Cultural control (Crop rotation, weed management, etc.)
-
Use of available natural pesticides (Chilly, Onion, Ash, and
others)
09.
Harvesting
-
As soon as the crop is mature so as to avoid or reduce
losses
-
Signs of maturity for various crops
-
How to harvest (Crops like Amaranthus should not be
uprooted, instead the crop should be cut above the ground
at 15 – 20 cm height or more to enable the crop produce
more shoots to increase foliage yield)
10.
Marketing
-
Farmers were advised to use competitive market strategies.
Questions to ask themselves
-
What to produce – Preference (Produce what people like
most)
-
When to produce – Demand and Supply problems (timing
of production is cardinal for a farmer to be able to make
47 | P a g e
profit. High supply leads to low demand. Let your crop
mature when demand is high e.g. maize that mature in
winter or tomato that mature in rain season have high
demand due to many factors.
-
For who to produce (in farming, it is advisable to find a
market before production)
-
Gross margin budget for winter maize was given as an
example
11.
Vegetable
-
Preservation
Various methods of preservation were discussed such as
drying in the shade (for green vegetables), drying in the
sun(for none green vegetables), making pastes etc.
12.
Nutritive Value of
vegetables
-
The functions of each nutrient to our bodies and the foods
in which those nutrients are found was also discussed with
emphasis to infants, pregnant women, lactating mothers,
the aged and those living with HIV/AIDS.
F. SESHEKE SEED BANK PILOT PROJECT
This pilot project was sponsored by Action Aid Zambia (Sesheke District Office) and
implemented on pilot basis in Sesheke District and its surrounding areas under the
climate change and resilience program. It was envisaged that the pilot phase would run
48 | P a g e
for twelve months with a strong likely hood of six months extension. The Ministry of
Agriculture attached me to Action Aid (Sesheke Office) to train the farmers and acquire
knowledge during my internship.
The Seed bank pilot project was a small scale community based rural seed reserves
that were owned and managed by people / individual. The project was meant to ensure
the availability of open pollinated local seed such as maize, millet, sorghum, ground
nuts, and cowpeas at village level. This decision was reached at after realizing that
local seeds were more climate resilient than hybrids. Action Aid also looked at the fact
that our local seeds were going into extinction from the time hybrids were introduced,
hence the need to preserve our own local seeds. The project was to be achieved
through engagement in the seed pass on mechanism to other interested community
farmers who don’t have the capacity to buy certified seed.
Objectives of the pilot seed bank
This pilot seed bank project was aimed at ensuring that there is seed security and
availability at community level. Specifically the pilot phase of the seed bank project was
intended to achieve the following objectives;
1. To work out a Zambian seed bank community organization in Sesheke district.
2. To identify suitable communities and organizations that will establish seed
banks on pilot basis.
3. To assist the identified communities in establishing seed bank.
4. To test seed banks managed by the community based organization, farmer
groups and cooperatives.
5. To establish a plat form for discussion for various communities involved in seed
security and availability at village level.
TRAINING OF FARMERS IN SEED PRODUCTION AND STORAGE
The seed bank project started with a training of selected potential seed growers from
Maondo, Katongo, and Research Agricultural camps. 42 farmers (22 females and 20
males) were selected and the table below fives details of the training.
No.
TOPICS
DISCUSSION POINTS
01.
Site selection
-
Select Fertile and well drained soils
-
Characteristics of fertile soil (Dark, well drained, high organic
matter content)
49 | P a g e
02.
03.
Land preparation
ISOLATION
-
Garden should be near source of water to easy irrigation
-
Should be well prepared (No clods)
-
Conservation Methods (potholing, fallows, ripping)
-
Farmers were aged to follow the recommended isolation
DISTANCES
04.
05.
distances to avoid seed contamination.
Planting
Fertilizer
and
-
Advantages of early planting
-
Spacing
-
Farmers were encouraged to use available local Farm Yard
Manure
Manure (Kraal, Goat/ Sheep, and Chicken manure) and to
application
add
chemical
fertilizers
to
meet
the
crop
nutrient
requirement, because the quantity of nutrients in Farm yard
manure and the rate at which nutrients are released is low.
Organic manure also improves water holding capacity and
soil texture. Application rates for both organic and inorganic
fertilizers were discussed.
06.
Weed
-
Importance of keeping the field free from weeds
management
-
Economic
importance
of
weeds
(Harbor
pests
and
diseases, compete with crops for nutrients and water,
compromise
the
quality
of
the
produce
due
to
disposal
of
contamination)
07.
Pest and disease
-
Scouting and Pest/disease identification
Management
-
Chemical
control
(types
of
chemicals,
containers, cleaning of sprayers, the spraying gear, time of
spraying etc.)
-
Cultural control (Crop rotation, weed management, etc.)
-
Use of available natural pesticides (Chilly, Onion, Ash, and
others)
08.
Removal of off
-
types
09.
Harvesting
Identification of off types (colour of leaves, colour of
flowers), growth rate etc.
-
As soon as the crop is mature so as to avoid or reduce
losses
10.
Seeds storage
50 | P a g e
-
Signs of maturity
-
Storage structures
-
Post-harvest handling of seed (seed treatment)
Demonstration on Construction of mud plastered storage
After the training in seed production, Demonstrations on how to construct seed banks
using locally available material was done in three (3) Agricultural camps namely
Maondo, Katongo, and Research.
Materials Used

Hoes

Soft wire

Axes

Fibre

Knives

Poles

Rudder

sticks

Measuring tape
Procedure

The first step is to measure the diameter of the seed bank. In our case, the
diameter was 1.6m.

Then we tied two (2) 30cm sticks on the measuring tape one on the other end and
the other one at 0.8cm depicting the radius of the seed bank.

Hold one stick at the centre making sure that the tape is well stretched.

Pull the other stick round to mark the circumference of the seed bank.

After marking the circle, we made 23 holes where to insert and firm the sticks that
form a seed bank shape. However, any odd number can be used depending on the
size of the seed bank.

Insert the strong sticks in the 23 holes and firm the soil.

Using fresh smaller sticks, start weaving the seed bank frame as shown in the
pictures below.

We maintained the shape of the weave by constantly putting the sticks in place
where they are supposed to be.
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
At 1.2m high, we started reducing the size of the weave till it was small enough to
allow a person to go in. Cut out some of the sticks on the bottom of the weave to
make a seed outlet pot.

Then using 6 big strong poles, a platform where to put the weave was made at
60cm high. Then the weave was put on the platform.

Plastering started with the inside of the weave and after 3 days when the inside
dries, the outside was plastered and the roof was fixed when it dried as shown in
the picture below.

Women were experts in plastering and that job was left to them as we (Men)
continued mixing and supplying the mortar.

After completion of the seed bank, the cover for the entrance was made and it
was roofed.
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Making the roof
Covers
Complete seed bank
Seed Distribution
After completion of the three mud plastered seed banks in three camps, the selected
farmers were given seed for multiplication. The following seeds were purchased and
distributed to farmers: Maize (ZM 521), Sorghum (Kuyuma), Cowpea (Lutembwe), and
Groundnuts.
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Seed distribution to beneficiaries
CHALLENGES
Inadequate Transport
The ministry of Agriculture did not have its own vehicle as such, we depended on
vehicles from other ministries to execute own duties.
Funding
The ministry did not receive any funding during my time of internship. The ministry was
hence assisted by the office of the District Commissioner who provided resources for
the Ministry of Agriculture to execute the duties especially the citrus project.
The lack of funding also caused the delay in the distribution of citrus seedling in
schools.
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CONCLUSION
The internship program was worth its purpose as it pre-exposed me to real field
situations and prepared me to face the agricultural work challenges and workload more
diligently. At first, things sounded tough and unrealistic, however, later on, all was well
and the whole Programme became meaningful.
I acquired a lot of knowledge in
organic crops production (vegetable, fruits, and field crops), how to make organic
fertilizers (compost, Bokhashi, teas, and super liquid fertilizers), how to control pest in
organic agriculture, budding of citrus plants, management of citrus nurseries, how to
make mud plastered grain storage bins, and many others. The knowledge I gained
instilled confidence in me and encouraged me to study more and know more about
Agriculture. I also leant to be a hard worker and to behave responsibly as a role model
in order to be the best Agriculturist. The internship started on 20th August and ended on
20th November, 2018.
.
RECOMMENDATION
Having successfully completed the internship (field attachment) programme, I would like
to recommend to the Management of the Zambian Open University not to charge
students the internship fee. This fee (Money) is meant for monitoring students in various
places where they are attached from. Unfortunately, no lecturer came for monitoring and
I see no need to force students to pay the K500. However, the university must realise the
importance monitoring students on attachment.
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