SC #1 – A #0
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Therapeutic, Calming and Soothing Values
When applied to the skin in a compress, spray, or mask the following have a
therapeutic value.
Aromatic
Substances having an agreeable odor and stimulating qualities:
Nutmeg, Fennel, Mint, Ginger, Sassafras bark, Golden rod, Lavender,
Rosemary, Sage,
Antiseptic
Agents used for destroying or inhibiting bacteria (putrefactive or pathogenic):
Cloves, Heather, Olive leaves, Sassafras bark, Peppermint, Eucalyptus,
Lavender, Sandalwood, Thyme,
Astringent
Agents that contract organic tissue and reduce discharges or secretions:
Comfrey root, Horse chestnut, Lettuce, Nettle, Wild plum, Rhubarb,
Sandalwood, Sumac, Strawberry leaves, Elm leaves, Lemon, Magnolia bark,
Oak bark, Radish, Sage, Shepherd’s purse, Witch hazel,
Alum root (extremely astringent)
Stimulating
Substances that have stimulating qualities:
Eucalyptus, Rosemary, Magnolia bark, Mistletoe, Wintergreen, Fennel,
Thyme, Lavender, Spearmint, Sandalwood,
The following are substances that have a calming and soothing effect on the
skin.
Almond, Hollyhock, Balm, Lettuce, Whitepond lily root, Wild daisy
Comfrey root, Camomile flowers, Pansy plant Jasmine Marjoram, Ginseng
Cleansing
Substances known to have exceptional cleansing action:
Lovage root, Lemongrass, Geranium leaves, Milfoil, Witch Hazel
Emollient
Agents used externally to soothe and soften the skin:
Almond, Comfrey root, Figs, Aloe, Hollyhock, Olive leaves
Skin Care Page 1 of 137
SC #1 – A #0
Healing
Agents used for their healing qualities:
Peppermint, Camomile flowers, Rosemary, Comfrey root, Pansy plant, Milfoil,
Elder flowers, Lovage root, Aloe, Wild daisy
Moisturizing
Substances used for their moisturizing qualities:
Orange blossoms, Rose leaves, Rose hips, Camomile flowers, Rose petals, White
willow bark
Skin Care Page 2 of 137
SC #2
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETLOGY DEPARTMENT
ADVANCE SKIN CARE TECHNIQUE
(Outline)
1.
Client consultation
2.
Cleanse (manually or with brush)
3.
Analyze using the dermascope or wood lamp
4.
Exfoliate (bio peel)
5.
Disincrustation solution (baking soda)
6.
Vacuum over disincrustation (steam optional)
7.
Extraction (manual)
8.
High Frequency with gauze (3 –5 ) mins.
10.
Apply essential oil and use
11.
Pressure point massage
12.
Gel mask and essential oil (10) mins.
13.
Mist Toner
14.
Moisturize - distribute
15.
Blot
Skin Care Page 3 of 137
SC #3 - B.F. 1a
REVISED 2/02
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
BROW SHAPE PROBLEMS
There are some common eyebrow problems that are left over from past fad/fashion
designs. They can be corrected --- re-designed to fit the “classic
Eyebrow shape” in balance and symmetry, shape and design.
A. ROUND ARCH UNDER A PROPERLY SHAPED BROW
B. ROUND EYEBROW (it follows the brow bone). “SURPRISED” LOOK!
C. FLAT, EXPRESSIONLESS BROW ---no arch ---no personality
D. ASTMMETRICAL BROWS ---one high and one low
SIDE #1
Tweeze the top of brow and pencil
Shape in from underneath brow
SIDE #2
Tweeze underneath the brow and
pencil in on top of brow
Skin Care Page 4 of 137
SC #4 - B.F. 1b
REVISED 2/02
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
EYEBROW
Treat brow as though it was made of corners and straight line then round
corners.
Start straight up from nose and inner corner of eye. Extends from nose to
outer corner of eye.
Arches slightly to outside of pupil.
This area represents
the eye area. Use
Honey Cream or
Shell Bisque
foundation here.
SHADE SELECTION
Soft stick for eyes.
Dark Brown
Medium Brown
Fair Blonde
Skin Care Page 5 of 137
SC #5 - BF 2
Revised 4/95
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INTRODUCTION TO MASSAGE
Massage is a method of treating the superficial parts of
the body for health and beauty.
Each message movement is applied in a way to
accomplish a particular purpose.
Massage is performed either by hand, mechanical, or
electrical.
Stimulating or soothing effects may be produced
depending on the method used.
The hand massage is the most common method.
Electrical appliances used most commonly: therapeutic
lamps, high-frequency.
BENEFITS OF MASSAGE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Increase blood circulation.
Increase lymph circulation.
Stimulates glandular activity.
Tones muscles.
Soothes and rests nerves.
Makes skin soft and pliable.
Reduces fat cells.
Relieves congestion and pain.
CAUTIONS
TYPES OF MASSAGE MOVEMENTS
1.
Effleurage (stroking) light, slow, rhythmic manner relaxing and soothing.
2.
Petrissage (kneading) light or is lifted, squeezed,
rolled or pinched with light, firm pressure.
3.
Tapotement or Percussion (tapping, slapping or
hacking) tapping tones muscles and imparts a healthy
glow to the skin. Slapping or hacking mainly used on
the back, shoulders and arms.
4.
Friction (deep rubbing) requires pressure - mainly
used for scalp manipulation.
5.
Vibration (shaking) trembling movement with the
hands or a vibrator. Very stimulating.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Keep the skin well covered with cream when
giving a massage.
Massage toward the origin of the muscles.
Keep a light touch on the face and go lightly
over the trachea.
Keep manipulations smooth and rhythmical.
Don't break connections with the patron after
starting manipulations unless it is absolutely
necessary.
When ending manipulations, gradually feather
fingers off of the patron.
Observe proper sanitary measures!!!
This is the most important step when giving a
facial.
Page 1
Skin Care Page 6 of 137
SC #5 - BF 2
Revised 4/95
PLAIN FACIAL
Ask patron to remove all jewelry and put it into her
purse.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
Drape patron.
Recline patron.
Cleanse heavy make-up from the face, then
cleanse entire face.
Remove cream.
Arch eyebrows (see instructions).
Apply massage cream to face and neck.
Have patron sit up and apply massage cream to
shoulders.
Give shoulder manipulations 10 times each.
Recline patron.
Give face manipulations 10 times each ( remove
all cream).
Apply pack or mask (optional) - see instructions.
Apply astringent or skin freshener.
Patron is ready for her make-up (see
instructions).
EYEBROW ARCH
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Prepare patron. If patron has not had a facial,
seat her in a reclining chair and drape with a single
towel under her head.
Always protect patron from touching the chair
by placing a towel under her head.
Discuss with patron suitable style for her face.
Cover her eyes with cotton pledgets moistened
with astringent.
If facial has not been done previously, soften
brows with hot towel (clean off all eyebrow
pencil).
Tweezing
Stretch skin taunt with index finger and thumb
or forefinger.
Grasp hair individually with tweezers and pull with
a quick motion in the direction in which the hair
grows.
Sponge tweezed area frequently with cotton
moistened with an antiseptic lotion to prevent
infection.
Keep cotton saturated with alcohol around a
finger to wipe off hairs that collect on tweezers.
Shape brows beneath the brow area, avoid
pulling brows at the top (only remove stray
hairs at top of brow).
Apply astringent or alcohol.
Page 2
Skin Care Page 7 of 137
SC #5 - BF 2
Revised 4/95
MAKE-UP
APPLICATION OF MASKS
Mint Julep: Use as is from the jar. Always use a
spatula for removing. Apply over areas where
blackheads are most common.
1.
2.
Whole Egg: Separate yolk from white and beat
lightly. Apply the yolk to face and neck and allow
to stand about 10 minutes.
Apply the white over the yolk and allow to stand
another 10 minutes.
Yolk is mild and soothing.
White is an astringent and it firms.
Use to firm skin and for sensitive skin.
Yeast: Use 1 generous teaspoon, mix with enough
water to make to make a paste.
Use to firm skin.
Can be mixed with peroxide (10%) to bleach skin.
Honey: Apply a tablespoon to face and neck.
Rotate fingers in a rocking motion over the skin
until the honey becomes sticky (about 10 minutes).
Do not continue when pulling becomes too strong.
Use to remove blackheads.
Mentholatum: Approx. 1 teaspoon to spread over
face and neck. Apply warm steam towels if desired
(use eye pads because of fumes).
Remove and finish with a cold towel.
Use for a sallow and sensitive skin.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
After a facial: Apply skin freshener or astringent
for (sensitive to dry) or an
astringent for (normal to oily).
Foundation: Apply in seven dots, neck, both
sides of face, chin, cheeks, nose, and forehead.
Rouge: Cream rouge over cream foundation -dry over powder or cake.
Eyebrow pencil: Light pencil strokes.
Eye Shadow: Blend upward and outward
keeping depth of color according to shape of
eyes and type of make-up.
Powder: Press firmly so it will adhere.
Cover entire face, neck and eyelids.
Brush off excess with cotton.
Final stroke downward motion.
Mascara: Upper lashes heavier than lower.
False lashes may be applied at this time.
Lipstick: Use small swab - draw outline with
lips closed. Retrace outline with lips taunt over
teeth.
Fill in lips, allow to set, blot with tissue.
For better lasting, powder over first application
and reapply - blot.
Final Touch: Bathe face lightly with skin lotion
on cotton. Gives dewy appearance.
Remove all traces of powder from lashes and
brows.
Page 3
Skin Care Page 8 of 137
7/01
SC #6 - BF#3
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
HOW TO LOCATE MOTOR POINTS
INDICATED ON THE CHART
#1 is midway between the chin and lips, and directly under lips.
These motor points are close together.
#2 is between the nostrils and the lips. Here again the motor points
are close together. Keep the electrodes away from the lips and the‘
edge of the nostrils at all times.
#3 is in a straight line across the opening of the nostrils is
approximately ¾ of an inch below the center of the eye.
#4 is approximately ¾ of an inch from the outer edge of the eye.
#5 is on the forehead just above the outer edge of the eyebrow.
#6 is directly above the nose on the forehead between the eyebrows.
#7 is directly above number five at the edge of the hair, numbers six
and seven are alternates, therefore, number five should be use if
possible.
#8 is found on each side of the nostrils, the electrode handle should
be held nearly parallel with the face.
#9 is under the chin as it makes a turn down to the throat.
#10 is on the jowl right in the indentation of the jawbone point the
electrode handles down toward the chest.
#11 is approximately one inch below each earlobe directly on the
jawbone.
#12 is in the cups of the shoulders. The electrodes may be moved a
fraction to the right or left to insure a vigorous sensation.
#13 is on the neck directly above the collarbone. Make certain the
electrodes do not contact the neck cords, as this would cause the head
to jerk to the left or to the right.
#14 is in the center of the neck, straight down from the hinge of the
jawbone. CAUTION: Do not place the electrodes on the larynx.
Skin Care Page 9 of 137
SC #7 - BF#4
Revised 6/2001
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
EUROPEAN FACIAL
SPREADING AND CLEANSING ROUTINE
1.
2.
3.
Apply cleanser on hands
a.
Apply to chest
b.
Throat
c.
Chin
d.
Cheek
e.
Nose
f.
Forehead
g.
Then wet hands
Spreading routine and cleansing routing
a.
Begin with circles on chest
b.
Up on the throat
c.
Over the chin
d.
Scissor the mouth
e.
Between the eyes then circling 3 times
f.
Temple friction 3 times
g.
Then back down
1)
Scissoring mouth
2)
Down chin the chest
3)
Repeat spreading movement 3 times
Begin cleansing routine
a.
Throat
1)
Roll patting 3 times across the throat
b.
Jaw
1)
Slide across the jaw to cleanse jaw area
2)
Using thumb and index finger
a) Pressure back side
b) Forward pressure back slide forward all the way to ear using
light pressure
c.
Chin
1)
Fingers on chin use thumb to circle around chin, side of mouth
and upper lip
d.
e.
Outside cheek area
1)
Turn the hand and stroke from jaw to outside cheek area (6
times)
a) Slide over forehead and repeat on other side of cheek
Inside cheek
1)
Large circles on cheeks then slide to nose
Skin Care Page 10 of 137
SC #7 - BF#4
Revised 6/2001
f.
Nose
1)
2)
Cross thumbs across the nose and lift the fingers off the face
Cleanse side of nose, top of nose with small circles using the
thumbs
3)
Pause between eyebrows and cleanse for a few seconds
4)
Then up to hairline then put fingers on forehead
g.
Forehead
1)
Finger friction across the forehead to the temporal
2)
Friction on temporal 3 times
3)
Press at temporal and off
COMPLETION OF FIRST CLEANSING
4.
5.
Rinse the cleanser using sponges or towel with water
Begin SECOND cleansing routine as the first time
Skin Care Page 11 of 137
Revised 1/01
SC #8 – BF #5
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
MASSAGE TECHNIQUE
1.
Spreading movements from shoulder, up on throat, over chin, scissor
mouth, between eyes, circle 1-2-3, temple 1-2-3, back to shoulder.
Repeat 3 times.
2.
7 minutes shoulder, neck, upper arms, chest, and décolleté massage with
palmar petrissage. Finish at temples.
3.
Right hand circle down from temple to right shoulder, across chest to left
shoulder and up on side back of neck to left side, 6 times. Repeat twice
each hand.
4.
Roll – patting across throat. 3 times.
5.
Jaw pulls with massage of ears. 6 times.
6.
Thumb lifts at side of mouth 6 times.
7.
Full cheek lifts with palmar surface. 6 times.
8.
Butterfly. 3 times.
9.
Circle eyes. Acupressure press under inside brow line. 6 times.
10.
“S” movements under eye towards nose and small circles back. Repeat
until warm.
11.
Temple frictions. 9 times.
12.
“S” movements across forehead. 3 times.
13.
Heel press and lifts with alternate hand on forehead. 3 times.
14.
Say “Good-bye” to the body with repeat spreading movements. 3 times,
slow and rhythmic.
15.
Grand butterfly.
16.
Tapotement on the face.
17.
Temple frictions. Pressure and lift off, slowly, and laterally.
Skin Care Page 12 of 137
Revised 5/93
SC #9 - BF#7
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
MASSAGE AND SKIN
Open-book test
Name______________________________
1.
Name the three methods of massage application: a)_________________________
b) _________________________________ c) ____________________________
2.
What are the three key words one should always remember when doing massage
manipulations. Define each one:
a)
____________________________________
____________________________________
b)
____________________________________
____________________________________
c)
____________________________________
____________________________________
3.
List at least 5 areas that a cosmetologist can massage: a) ________________
b)___________________ c)_____________________ d)________________
e) ___________________
4.
List at least 4 conditions when one would never massage: a) ________________,
b) ________________, c) ____________________, d) ____________________.
5.
List at least 3 qualifications the cosmetologist must possess:
a)_________________ , b)______________________c) _________________
d) ____________________
6.
What is the correct direction of massage movements? __________________
______________________________________________________________
Why? _________________________________________________________
Skin Care Page 13 of 137
Revised 5/93
SC #9 - BF#7
7.
Identify the 5 basic massage manipulations and tell a little about each one:
a) _________________
_____________________________
b) _________________
_____________________________
c) _________________
_____________________________
d) _________________
_____________________________
e) _________________
_____________________________
8.
List at least 5 benefits one can receive from massage treatments:
a) _________________________________________________
b) _________________________________________________
c) _________________________________________________
d) _________________________________________________
e) _________________________________________________
9.
List the two main layers of the skin: a) _______________ , b) _______________
Name a third one that can or cannot be referred to as an actual layer:
c) _______________________________
Of the three, which layer is considered to be?
a) The middle layer – ________________
b) The top layer - __________________
c) The fatty layer – _________________
What is the function or purpose of the epidermis layer? _____________________
_____________________________
Skin is the largest ___________ of the body
10.
11.
12.
13.
Describe a healthy skin: ____________________________________________
________________________________________________________________
14.
What is keratin? ___________________
15.
List the 5 elements that keratin contains: a)_______, b) _______, c) ______
d)_______, e) _________
16.
List the 8 various structures found within the dermis layer of the skin:
a) __________________
e) _________________
b) __________________
f) _________________
c) __________________
g) _________________
d) ___________________ h) _________________
Give the purpose of at least 4 of those: __________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
__________________________________________________________________
Skin Care Page 14 of 137
Revised 5/93
SC #9 - BF#7
17.
18.
What is melanin? ___________________________________________________
How much of the total blood supply is contained within the skin? _____________
19.
List the six principal functions of the skin:
a)_____________________ b) ____________________ c _________________
d) ____________________
20.
What is a characteristic of aged skin? ____________________________
21.
What is the technical term for the following?
a) sweat gland_________________ b) oil gland _____________________
c) oily substance in skin _________________________
22.
List the 3 types of nerve endings found in the skin and briefly describe the
function of each:
a) ____________________
___________________________________
b) _____________________
____________________________________
c) _____________________
____________________________________
23.
List the 5 basic types of facial skin and briefly describe each:
a) _____________________
____________________________________
b) _____________________
____________________________________
c) _____________________
____________________________________
d) _____________________
____________________________________
e) _____________________
____________________________________
24.
List at least 3 internal and 3 external factors which affect skin:
External _________________ __________________ _________________
Internal _________________
__________________
_________________
Skin Care Page 15 of 137
SC #11 - BF #8
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Steamer
1.
Where does the water have to be filled to before starting the steamer?
2.
What kind of water must be used with the steamer?
3.
What happens to the steamer if you use regular water?
4.
How often must you change the water in the steamer bowl?
5.
When stating the steamer which direction should you face the steamer
head and why?
6.
When would you use the steamer in a facial?
7.
Approximately how long do you use the steamer during a facial?
8.
What are the benefits of using steam in a facial?
Skin Care Page 16 of 137
SC #12 - BM 1
Revised 5/93
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
USE FOR ARTICLES IN MAKE-UP TRAY
I.
Each item in the make-up tray has a specific use:
A.
Cleansing Cream
1.
To remove soil and make-up
B.
Nite Emollient
1.
Used as a lubricant and as a cushion for fingers during massage (skin must
not get dry)
C.
Astringent (Witch Hazel)
1.
To tighten and firm the skin, close the pores
2.
Removes remaining cream or oil
D.
Powder Base
1.
Used to cover blemishes.
2.
Used to protect (against sun and wind burn)
3.
Is a base for poser or make-up
4.
Adds color
5.
May be used to correct the shape of the face
E.
Eye Shadow
1.
Brings out the color in the eyes (gives depth)
2.
Makes the eye look deeper (if eyes are deep set, never use on the lids)
F.
Cream Rouge
1.
Adds color to the cheeks
2.
Used to correct the shape of the face
G.
Eyebrow Pencil
1.
Used to color the brows
2.
Used to correct the shape of the brow
3.
Used to fill in where there is no brow
H.
Powder
1.
Gives make-up a mat finish
2.
Sets the make-up
3.
Used for color
I.
Mascara
1.
Used to darken the eyelashes
2.
May be used to correct the shape of the eyes
J.
Lipstick
1.
Adds color to the lips
2.
May be used to correct the shape of the mouth
3.
Protects the lips
Skin Care Page 17 of 137
7/01
SC #13 - M#2
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
METHODS TO TEST SHADES OF COSMETICS
1.
Powder base:
Blend a little along jaw line to blend in with neck.
2.
Rouge:
Pinch the skin on the back of the hand near the wrist until a reddish color
appears. Rub a bit of rouge along side of the natural color, blend it in will
and compare the two shades. The rouge that matches the tinge of the
clients owns blood is the correct shade to use.
3.
Powder:
Use a bit of cotton, pat some powder on the forearm just above the wrist;
rub it around lightly a few times and note how the powder blends into the
surrounding skin. When the shade and weight of the powder is just right,
the powder blends into the surrounding skin with a flattering soft dull finish.
4.
Lipstick:
Turn back the relaxed lower lip until the color of the inner mucous
membrane can be seen. Lipstick that just blends with or tones into the color of
this membrane will give the most natural effect.
5.
Eyebrow pencils:
Browns and grays can be used on types of blonde, black and brown hair.
As black often looks harsh, blend it with brown or gray, the reddish brown
pencil should be used on red, golden-brown or warm brown hair clients.
6.
Mascara:
Mascara is selected by the shades of the hair, according to the following
general observations:
a.
Black is good for all black lashes.
b.
Blue is effective on black lashes if the eyes are blue or gray.
c.
Brown is good on golden, reddish or brown lashes.
d.
Green is fascinating on blonde, brown or red-haired types if the
eyes are green, gray or hazel.
7.
Eye shadow:
More than one color is generally used sparingly. Blends and variations depend
upon complexion and ensemble.
a.
Gray eyes may use gray, blue or green tones.
b.
Blue eyes may use gray, blue or violet tones.
c.
Hazel eyes may use gray, green brown, rust or gold
d.
Brown eyes may use green, brown rust, or gold. Some times,
depending on the color key, some shades of violet can be used.
Skin Care Page 18 of 137
SC # 14 - C.M.1
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PURPOSE OF MAKEUP
Makeup is applied for psychological reasons only:
A.
The Self Image – How we perceive ourselves.
B.
The Reflective Image – How we perceive others see us.
MAKEUP
Makeup is a decorative product, it does nothing to promote or maintain skin
health: its sole purpose and function is to alter – enhance, define and
decorate the person’s physical image. It is applied to the surface of the skin
only. Makeup is applied for psychological reasons only – to attract the
opposite sex, to create a well groomed look, to define, accentuate and
enhance one’s features as well as to disguise blemishes and some of the
signs of aging (discoloration). The motive is always psychological; the
impression to be made on others and our self image. How we look to
ourselves and others will determine to a great degree how we act, react and
interact in society. The sole purpose of makeup, again, is to alter the
individual’s appearance in a positive manner.
Makeup preparations are basically foundations, powders, rouges. Blushers,
eye shadow, mascara, eyebrow pencils and lip coloring in various forms.
Their individual and / or combined use is determined by the image the
person desires. It is therefore of prime importance to first ascertain what the
client’s psyche will or will not accept in the way of makeup enhancement
and fashion. This is determined by a guided conversation interview prior to
doing the actual consulting or makeup applications.
DEFINITION OF A COSMETIC BY THE FOOD AND DRUG
ADMINISTRATION ( F.D.A.)
“(1) Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on.
introduced to or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for
cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance,
and (2) Articles intended for use as a component of any such articles, except
that such term shall not include soap.”
Skin Care Page 19 of 137
Revised 4/06
SC #15 - CM1a
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
WHY MAKEUP
Makeup is used to control the negative effects of harsh light reflecting form shiny
skin. It also helps to minimize skin discolorations and blemishes. The subject should not
appear to be made up, however: the makeup, hair and clothing all need to be balanced.






It enhances the natural features
Protects the skin from the environment, e.g. pollution, the sun
Good for your skin
Can make mature skin more youthful looking
Creates a moisture barrier
When you look good you feel good
Women are judged by their appearance, and in today’s job market having a clean,
professional image is even more crucial then having the right credentials and being
qualified in their field. Cosmetics have everything to do with creating an image because
makeup has always been considered a decorative product. Makeup allows us to create a
positive self image: How we perceive ourselves, and a reflective image: How we perceive
others see us. We all grew up with the saying “real beauty comes from within” and
makeup can help bring out that inner beauty and create self-confidence.
Think in terms of creating a look that is reflective of each individual’s personal
characteristics by accentuating their best features. Makeup preparation consist of
foundations, powders, blushes, eyeshadows, mascara, eyebrow and eyeliner pencils and
lip colors in a variety of forms.
In portraiture, the essence of the person is captured on film. The portrait photo
has as its goal to set apart the persona of the individual, to give a long lasting, timeless
image which will be treasured. You set the tone of the shoot with your attitude and you
contribute to the clients feeling relaxed and confident, as well as improving their overall
appearance.
Your goal is to determine the needs of your client/talent in regard to the situation
or style of shoot. Do you want a clean documentary look or a High fashion model look?
To determine the look desired you need to do your homework:






What is the client / Photographer / Advertising Co. / Director looking for?
Who is the talent or character?
What is the age?
Their lifestyle?
Environment?
Peer group?
Skin Care Page 20 of 137
Revised 7-06
SC #16 - CM#1b
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Corrective Make-up
Contouring:
You will need dark cosmetics to make areas of your face appear smaller. You can use:
Dark makeup foundation
Brown pencil
Dark blusher (browns, plums or wine)
Dark cream shadows
Dark powdered eye shadow (browns, and taupes)
Highlighting:
You will need light colors to give the illusion of largeness. You can use:
Light makeup foundation
White, pink or white pearl
pencil
Light blusher (pinks, coral, oranges)
Any light shade of eye
shadow (whites, golds,
beiges, pinks)
Highlight colors can be either matte (nonshiny) or pearlized (iridescent). Pearlized
cosmetics act as a double highlighter – both the lightness and the iridescence make areas
appear more prominent. This double highlighting effect is very effective in evening
makeups.
Now, taking into consideration your natural face shape, follow the step-by-step
instructions to contour and highlight your face to create the illusion of an oval-shaped
face. In the illustrations, the contoured areas are represented by dark shading. Broken
lines indicate areas to be highlighted.
Round face.
To minimize the width of the face, use either a dark pencil, dark foundation, etc., to
create a shadow on the sides of the forehead. Carry this shadow down the sides of the
face and around the jawline. Blend well with a sponge
Skin Care Page 21 of 137
Revised 7-06
SC #16 - CM#1b
The Forehead:
If you have a low forehead, you will highlight this area to make the area between the
eyebrows and the hairline appear larger. If you have a high forehead, you will shade the
area to minimize the space between the hairline and the eyebrows.
Low forehead, corrected
High forehead, corrected
The Chin and Jaw:
Now look at your chin. Is it a prominent or pointed chin? Then contour the tip of the chin.
If the sides of the chin fall inside the oval, highlight the sides of the chin.
Skin Care Page 22 of 137
Revised 7-06
SC #16 - CM#1b
The Face:
Triangle face. Highlight the temples at the hairline and extend down to the cheekbones to
increase the width of the forehead. Contour the lower part of the face under the chin and
jawline. Blend well with a sponge
Inverted-triangle face. Darken the areas on both sides of the forehead, down to the top of
the ear close to the hairline. Highlight down the sides of the jaw. Blend well with a
sponge.
Skin Care Page 23 of 137
Revised 7-06
SC #16 - CM#1b
Oblong face. To shorten the length of the oblong face, a dark contour is applied both on
the forehead along the hairline and at the tip of the chin. Blend well with a sponge.
Square face. Shade the corners of the forehead, the cheeks, and the jawline to soften the
straight lines of the face. Blend with a sponge or contour brush to give a rounded look to
the hairline.
Diamond face. Highlight the sides of the forehead and at the jawline. Blend well with a
sponge.
Skin Care Page 24 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
THREE STEPS TO FINDING YOUR CLIENT’S SEASON
Finding what seasons you or your client belongs to are based on skin tone, natural color
of eyes and hair. Below you’ll find three suggestions to consider before making your
final analysis.
1.
SKINTONE: The most important factor
Warm or cool? To find out, inspect the inner side of your client’s wrist, not facial
skin. Preferably inspect using natural daylight. Place your client’s wrist on a
WHITE plain sheet of paper. The underlying Yellow/Gold or Blue tone should be
apparent. If your still unsure of your clients season
Yellow or Golden undertones generally indicate the seasons of spring or autumn.
Blue or Bluish-pink undertones are identified with the season of summer or
winter. Sallow undertones (Yellowish) should not be mistaken for golden
undertones of spring and autumns. Surprisingly sallowness can be present in
summer as well as winter types, especially in a maturing skin.
C A U T I O N!
You can be misled by broken capillaries, tanning, freckle, redness, blue veins, etc.
Be sure you are evaluating the skin’s true undertones.
Do not be disturbed if you are still unsure of your client’s season remember
natural hair and eye color are an important factor in this determination. There is a
draping process to help make your final analysis. When dominant color
undertones as been determined continue with your seasonal analysis.
2.
HAIRCOLOR:
Talk to your client asks them, at the age of 9 or 10 what was their natural
haircolor. Was the hair brighter, lighter, redder, blonder? Even through hair can
be changed chemically of dull with age the seasonal type remains consistent
through life. No matter what alterations have been made.
If the client’s haircolor is natural study the highlights. Red or Gold highlights
indicate a WARM season. If the highlights are Blue or Ash tones this indicates a
COOL season. If the client has gray hair it to show seasonal tendencies. Weather
it be a warm metallic or golden cast or a cool salt n pepper. On the other hand if
the hair is tinted or bleach and you did the previous color you should look up your
record card and check what the original color was. If this is impossible then you
will have to totally depend on the client description.
Skin Care Page 25 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
Compare your findings against the skin tone analysis you did earlier. There
should be harmony cool tone hair with cool tone skin, and warm tone hair with
warm tone skin.
3.
EYES: To confirm your analysis
Eyes (like hair) are composed of fragments of color. Study your client’s eye under
a strong light notice all the colors including flecks and rings. One color should be
dominant this color should be used to determine seasonal analysis.
N O T E: Contact lenses should be removed before analyzing eye color.
Now with the information you just collected compare your notes with the seasonal charts
to conclude your analysis. REMEMBER everyone has a season there are four
possibilities, you may only determine ONE as the season for your client. Like most things
the more you practice, this to will become easier.
THE COLOR DRAPING TECHNIQUE
It’s not uncommon to find some clients doubtful about their seasonal analysis, some
clients are so accustom to wearing certain colors and don’t want to believe that they may
have been wearing colors uncomplimentary to them.
Prove it to them use this color draping technique, it’s designed to immediately show how
the current colors of their personal palette makes a difference in their appearance.
This technique is designed to immediately show the client how the current colors of the
personal palette do make a difference in your client’s appearance. Before you begin
you’ll need to organize a few items an assortment of solid-colored fabrics that match the
colors in each personal palette. (Winter, Autumn, Spring and Summer).
Now you are ready to begin. With your client in front of a mirror (in natural daylight if
possible), drape one color at a time around her or his face. There will be a instantaneous
and dramatic difference as you try different colors. The right colors make the skin glow,
the eyes sparkle, the hair shine. The wrong colors have the opposite effect.
The most flattering colors will invariable be part of the personal palette. This is an
exciting moment of discovery for your client, and it confirms not only your expertise as a
color theory specialist, but as a haircoloring expert and make up artist as well.
Skin Care Page 26 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF SPRING
Skin
Hair
Eyes
Yellow undertone (always)
Strawberry Blonde
Often Aqua, Clear Blue
Ivory or Beige
Light Red, Auburn
Green, Golden Brown
Peachy with fresh pink tone
Blonde,(from flaxen to
Topaz
Often fair
To golden honey)
Light golden-brown freckles
A starburst pattern around pupil
Brown with red highlights
Rarely, Dark Brown
Gray hair is often drape
Golden Gray
Recommend hair coloring
HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR SPRING
Spring should try to maintain their hair as close to their natural color as possible, especially since their hair
tends to darken with age. Springs can take hair shades lighter or darker in their range but should not be
allowed to go brassy.
Recommended
Hair Colors
Recommended
Foundations
Recommended
Eye Shadow
Recommended
Blusher
Recommended
Lip Sticks
Warm, Golden or
Reddish tones,
Yellow-Blonde,
Flaxen Golden
Blonde
Strawberry
Blonde tones,
Golden Brown
Red Brown
Avoid partial Gray
cover completely
may produce soft
natural looking
highlights.
Light skin:
Yellow-tone
Beige
Soft Apricot
Green, Aqua
Soft Brown
Peaches, Corals,
Peach-Pinks
Coral, Peach
Warm Peach-Pink
Clear Light Red
Dark skin:
Gold-toned Beige
Medium skin:
Ivory or Peach
Skin Care Page 27 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
THE CHARACTRISTICS OF SUMMER
SKIN
HAIR
Blue undertones (always)
EYES
Blondes from
Platinum, Light Ash to Medium
Clear Blues: Sky blue Aqua,
Gray-Blue
Ash Brown Smokey Brown
Dark Brown (taupe cast)
Very common:
Blue with White flecks
Translucent Rosy-Pink Light,
Neutral Beige
Beige with Pink tinge
Can be quite Pale
Gray has a Blue cast
Gray seldom has highlights
Also:
Green with White flecks,
Hazel, Soft Pale Gray
Soft Brown or Rose Brown
HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR SUMMER
Summers look wonderful with frosted or highlighted hair. If the sun has reddened a summer’s hair, use an
ash brown shade to tone it down.
Recommended
Hair color
Recommended
Foundation
Recommended
Blusher
Recommended
Eye shadow
Recommended
Lipsticks
Cool, Ash tones
Rose tone Beige
Light Pink
Blue-Gray
ale Pink
Ash Blonde
Pink Beige
Rose Beige
Rose/Mauve
Softened Plum
Ash Brunette
Rachel Beige
Blue-Pink
Soft Brown
Light Burgundy
Light Plum
Soft Gray
Blue- Pink
Gray : add
Cool Highlights
Highlights or
Streaking use
cool tones
AVOID Red
Skin Care Page 28 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF AUTUMN
SKIN
HAIR
Yellow undertones (always)
Pure Ivory, Light to Dark
Peach,
Light to Dark Peach
Fair to Tawny or Coppery
Golden Black
Fair Autumns often have freckles
EYES
Redheads from Carrot-top
To Strawberry Blondes
Reddish Brown
Often intensely colored
Golden Blonde to
Golden Brown
Deep Chestnut to Auburn
Jade green (clear)
Very Rarely: Charcoal or
Black
Gray hair dulls, but may be
Mixed with warm highlights
Sometimes, a ruddy
Florid cast
Blues: Peacock (with aqua tones)
Deep to pale green with gold,
brown or citron flecks
Yellow- Brown
Golden Brown, Dark Brown
Hazel; (brown/green/gold mix
HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP GUIDE FOR AUTUM
Autumns look best when they maintain the natural red or warm tones in their hair. Graying Autums should
seriously consider hair coloring.
Recommended
Hair color
Recommended
Foundation
Auburn
Yellow-tone (light
skin)
Copper-tone (dark
skin)
Ivory
Golden Brown
Golden Blonde
Red Brown
Recommended
Blusher
Recommended
Eye shadow
Recommended
Lip stick
Oranges (all)
Green (olive)
Peach, Corral
Gold tones
Brown, Copper
Orange-red
Tawny Peaches
Soft Turquoise
Brownish-red
Light to Dark
Peaches
Red, Strawberry
Avoid: cool tones
highlights
Cover Gray
Skin Care Page 29 of 137
SC #17 - CM #1C
THE CHARACTERISTICS OF WINTER
SKIN
HAIR
EYES
Blue undertones (always)
Usually Dark
Almost always Dark
Typically olive-light,
medium, dark.
Milky white (colorless)
Frequently, Black (with blue cast)
Black or Dark Brown
Frequently,
Medium to Dark Brown
Brown with reddish cast
Beige with slight rare sallow ness
White slight red-rose undertones
(rare)
Hazel (gray/green/blue mix
Possible Red highlights in Brown
hair
Blonde hair: Quite RARE
Gray-often premature:
Blue: Dark or medium with white
flecks
Green: with white flecks
Black
Frequently salt-n-pepper
Freckles-dark brown
Gray, combined with Blue or
Green
Silver Gray snow white
HAIRCOLOR AND MAKE UP FOR WINTER
Winters look best in their natural hair color (or a shade lighter) when they Gray, subtle highlights can
enhance dark hair, but be careful not to add too much red.
Recommended
Hair color
Recommended
Foundation
Recommended
Blusher
Recommended
Eye shadow
Recommended
Lip stick
Cool Ash tones
Ash Brown
Ash Blonde
Rose tone Beiges
(medium to dark)
Rosy Red
Light Gray/Silver
True Red
Pink Beige
Blue-Pink
Light Plum/Mauve
Blue Red
Honey Beige
Burgundy
Blue-Gray
Burgundy
Rachel Beige
Plum
Ash Green/Blues
Plum
Blue-black
Burgundy
Deep reds
Subtle highlights
Gray add cool
highlights
AVOID:
Bleaching or
Streaking or strong
Red tones
Skin Care Page 30 of 137
Revised 6/96
SC #18 - CM#7
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
INFORMATION SHEET
YOUR KITCHEN – YOUR FRIEND
SKIN:
1. POTATOES – for pimples, cut surface, allow
moisture to form, rub on skin and allow to dry,
rinse with cool water.
7. CIDER VINEGAR – To soothe irritated skin.
Also, good as an astringent. (Rinse off with
cool water)
2. HONEY (oily skin) – Smooth plain honey on
the skin. Pat gently to cleanse the pores.
8. AVOCADO – Very ripe-mash thoroughly,
use as cream for dry skin.
3. HONEY mixed with OATMEAL – to make a
paste, use as a scrub.
9. CANNED MILK – Soothes irritated skin
Good for sunburns.
4. CORN MEAL – Mixed with cold cream
stimulating cleanser for blackheads.
10. COARSE SALT – Mixed with lard –
stimulating cleanser for blackheads
5. EGG WHITE – For quick pick-up, for tired
lines around the eyes.
11. MAYONNAISE – Used for dry skin.
6. ICE CUBE – Wrap in cloth, use as an
astringent.
HAIR:
BATH:
1. WHOLE EGG SHAMPOO – gently beat an
egg. Use as a shampoo, rinse with very cool
water.
1. HANDFUL of OATMEAL – Tie in pouch
made with cheese cloth. Drop in bath tub.
(Like a mild bath)
2. CORN MEAL and SALT equal parts –
use as a dry shampoo. Rub into scalp and brush
out thoroughly.
2. GLYCERIN and WITCH HAZEL
Equal parts, makes an excellent body lotion.
Good moisturizer.
3. MAYONNAISE – for dry hair, not good for
fine hair
3. SALT – Rub to stimulate skin.
4. TOMATO JUICE – to remove odor
4. POWDERED MILK – in bath.
5. VINEGAR – (cider) for rinse – good
conditioner for hair and to remove soap scum
from hair
5. CORN STARCH – in bath
EYES:
HANDS:
1. FRESH CUCUMBER SLICES – Place over
eyes, rest for 10 minutes
1. DRY OATMEAL – in canister, so hands can
be plunged into, to soothe and soften
2. WARM TEA BAGS – for puffy, red eyes.
2. LEMON – cut edges, to remove stain.
3. GRAPEFRUIT HULLS – to soften hands.
4. POTATOES – to remove odors
Skin Care Page 31 of 137
Revised 1/2001
SC #19
CERRITOS COLLEGE COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
MASSAGE TECHNIQUE
1.
Spreading movements from shoulder, up on throat, over chin, scissor mouth,
between eyes, circle 1-2-3, temple 1-2-3, and back to shoulder. Repeat 3 times.
2.
7 minutes shoulder, neck, upper arms, chest, and décolleté massage with palmar
petrissage. Finish at temples.
3.
Right hand circle down from temple to right shoulder, across chest to left shoulder
and up on side back of neck to left side jaw, 6 times. Repeat twice each hand.
4.
Roll-patting across throat. 3 times.
5.
Jaw pulls with massage of ears. 6 times.
6.
Thumb lifts at side of mouth. 6 times.
7.
Full cheek lifts with palmar surface. 6 times.
8.
Butterfly. 3 times.
9.
Circle eyes. Acupressure press under inside browline. 6 times.
10.
“S” movements under eye towards nose and small circles back. Repeat until
warm.
11.
Temple frictions. 9 times.
12.
“S” movements across forehead. 3 times.
13.
Heel press and lifts with alternate hand on forehead. 3 times.
14.
Say “Good-bye” to the body with repeat spreading movements. 3 times, slow and
rhythmic.
15.
Grand butterfly.
16.
Tapotement on the face.
17.
Temple frictions. Pressure and left off, slowly, and laterally.
Skin Care Page 32 of 137
SC #20
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Determining Your Facial Shape
Have you ever asked yourself, “What shape face do I have?” Here are a few guides to
help you find out.
Take a ruler and stand in front of the mirror. Have a towel wrapped around
your head just at the hairline. Measure the distance from your hair
line to the tip of your chin, straight down over your nose. Draw
a vertical line on the paper this length. Now measure the width
of your forehead at its widest point. Draw a line at right angles
to the length line, and the proper distance down from the hairline.
Measure the width across your cheek – bones, and draw a similar
line. Do likewise with the width across your jaw. Now draw a line
around the outside of these four guidelines. This is the shape of your face.
Oval: The “Ideal”. The forehead is slightly wider than the chin. The
chin. The cheekbone width is approximately two-thirds the length of
the face (from hairline to chin). The cheeks and jaw line taper gently
off a curved chin.
Oblong: The face is long and narrow. Oblongs do not vary too much
from perfect – oval measurements in width and length of face. The
difference comes in the long, thin side-planes of the cheeks, the angular
jaw, and the straight or possibly pointed chin.
Round: Consider the form of a circle, large or small. The face is
not too much longer than it is broad. The greatest width is at the cheeks,
which sustain their fullness right down to the jawbone, where the
face rounds off to a short full chin. This might be the result of being overweight.
Square: A square is a circle with corners. The face is almost as broad as it is
long. The widths (although slightly wider at the cheekbone) differ very little
from each other. It is distinguished from the round type by a straight
hairline and the fact that the generous jawbones have an angular form rather
than a rounded one, jutting rather decidedly to a square-bottomed chin.
Skin Care Page 33 of 137
SC #20
Triangle: A full face, the triangle is sometimes called pear shaped.
The greatest width comes in the lower section of the face. The taper
is upward, slightly narrower at the cheek, narrowest at the forehead.
Heart shaped: This means just what it says; the taper is downwards.
The greatest width is at the forehead. The jaw line is narrow and the
chin is small.
Diamond: The characteristic of the diamond is extra width at the cheek bones
(more than two-thirds the length of the face). Forehead and chin
narrow off; hairline and jaw measurements are approximately the same.
The extra-wide cheekbones may be definitely pointed in appearance, or
may extend into a broad, full fleshed cheek.
Now that you know about your facial shape, apply this information to determine the
shape of your patron’s. Use this information to create stylized make-up just for her,
and design hairstyles to enhance her beauty.
Skin Care Page 34 of 137
SC #21
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Disincrustation





Negatively charged alkaline solutions is
placed on skin’s surface
May be used without solution as chemical
reaction changes fluid within to alkaline.
Solution provides additional emulsification to
surface follicle opening.
Client holds positive/esthetician holds
negative electrode.
Creates a chemical reaction known as
saponification.
Skin Care Page 35 of 137
SC # 22
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
DO’S AND DON’TS IN DIPILATORY WAXING
1.
DO NOT wax area with cuts, abrasions, inflammations or open wounds.
2.
DO NOT wax over active Herpes virus.
3.
DO NOT wax areas that have Telangiectiasia.
4.
DO NOT wax during the use of Retin A, one month before or three months after.
5.
DO NOT wax while taking Accutane, or applying any Alpha Hydroxy Acid or
Glycolic Acid to the skin.
6.
Waxing is not recommended for people who have Diabetes.
7.
Avoid direct exposure to ultra-violet rays from the sun before or after waxing.
8.
Female clients may be more sensitive to waxing a few days before the menstrual
cycle.
9.
if there is a tendency towards ingrown hairs, (common in bikini area and on black
skin), use a natural loofah sponge prior to waxing.
10.
Extreme heat (hot baths, sauna, steam room, sun-bathing, etc.), should be avoided
before and after waxing.
11.
DO NOT use creams, lotions or oils on skin before waxing.
12.
DO NOT wax and give a peeling treatment on the same day.
Skin Care Page 36 of 137
SC #23
Esthetician Night first 18 weeks
Monday
Orientation
Anatomy, histology of skin
Bacteriology, sanitation
Preparing the skin for treatment/draping, cleansing
Massage techniques
Tuesday
Distribution of kits
Professional ethics
Health and safety related to cosmetic skin care
Skin analysis/types, conditions. and diseases, clinical profile
Hair removal/tweezing, waxing
Shaping of brows
Wednesday and Thursday
Cosmetic chemistry/products ingredients, effect on he skin and
mixing formulas
Make-up/analyzing skin tones (color key)
Theory of color, shape of faces, application daytime, corrective
Lash application/ strip, individuals
Skin Care Page 37 of 137
SC #24 Pull fingers up to bottom of
tum to interlock at
frehead.
l1es and
Stroke index fingers in zigzag
movement across forehead
from left to right and back.
Gently pull interlocked across
forehead.
"S" movements under eye to
nose, and circles out to ear
(3x each side)
Apply light pressure to lid and
brow area and gently slide
towards temple (3x)
Slide fingers to temples and
make small circles around
them.
Place base of palm on middle
of forehead. Rotate palm and
begin Step 2
Alternate hand over hand from
brow to hairline across
forehead
Decreasing effleurage
movements over decollete,
arms, shoulders and neck
(3x)
Gentle, decreasing pressure,
circular movements around
eyes (3x)
M
Gentle, decreasing pressure,
circular movements at temples
(12x), then pressure off.
Skin Care Page 38 of 137
SC #24 Fa.4a.t.. 11
Spreading
Arm/Shoulder/Neck
Circular effleurage from center
of chest to arm crease, then
glide hands over shoulders
Glide hand down side of neck,
down front of arm to elbow,
glide up back of arm
Back Massage
Knuckling
Shoulder Massage
Glide hands down back, with
Palms up, using knuckles,
strong circular effleurage up to massage shoulders
shoulders
Neck Massage
Roll Patting
Jaw Trails
Strong effleurage up back of
neck, gentle down neck. Then
hands at base of skull, pull
head, stretching neck up
Circle w/1 hand down side of
neck to shoulder, across dec
to opposite shoulder, roll pat
up neck/face/temples (2x)
Soft rhythmic movements
beginning at top of decollete,
up throat to chin (3x)
Grip chin and pull back firmly
to ear (combine with ear
massage 6x)
..
Gentle massage of ear
beginning with lobes and
moving up the spine of the
ear
Cheek Massage
Cheek Lift
Butterfly Step 1
Butterfly Step 2
Butterfly Step 3
Using thumb, lift chin and
cheek (6x)
Interlock fingers and gently lift
cheeks with palm (3x)
Interlock fingers at base of
chin (Follow Steps 1-5, 3x)
Pull apart with fluid
movement, moving palm up
cheeks to brow
Apply gentle pressure to brow
and begin to pull fingers up
cheeks
Skin Care Page 39 of 137
Revised 6/2001
SC #25
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
EUROPEAN FACIAL
PROCEDURE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Consultation with client
Cleanse 2 times
Analysis with Woods Lamp & Magnifying glass
If using Galvanic, use Negative pole first.
Turn Steam on
Scrub (with or without brushes)
Brush
Spray
Vacuum (skin must be moist)
Turn Steam off
Apply massage cream
Apply direct high frequency
Massage Routine
Remove massage cream
Apply mask
Turn Steam to soften mask
Remove mask
Turn Steam off
Galvanic-Positive Pole
Spray
Apply moisturizer
Blot any excess
Skin Care Page 40 of 137
SC #26
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
EYE SHADOW AND MASCARA
CONTACT LENS WEARERS
Your best choice is an eye shadow with a creamy textured powder. The
Particles of drift from loose powdered eye shadows tend to fall into the eye and cause
irritation. Avoid applying eyeliner to the rim of the lash line. If the eyes become irritated
the eye will water away the product and cause streaks. Mascara is fine, but avoid
mascara with lash building fibers. The filaments from the fillers can drop into the eyes,
causing irritation.
FEATURES
Enhance the eye shape
Creates and ads interest to the eyes
APPLICATION
One color – applied all over eye area from the lash up to the brow (Soft
Tan/Neutral Taupe)
Two color – 1 color applied to the entire eye area and another color is applied on
and slightly above the crease to create emphasis.
Three colors – start with two-color eye design, and then add a wedge shaped
crease at the outer corner of the eye. The lid and under the brow should be a softer lighter
or less intense color. Use a darker color for the wedge shaped crease
Washes – sheer layers of overlapping color, Use lighter colors first.
MASCARA
FEATURES
Water-resistant
Smudge proof
Add length and Fullness
Makes your eyes look larger
Many have special additives to soothe and condition the lashes such a botanicals, herbs, vitamins,
mineral and protein.
One coat will do with many types of mascara
Skin Care Page 41 of 137
SC #26
USE
If curling lashes, do so before applying mascara
Apply to bottom first, Hold wand horizontally and move to out toward the tips
Apply to top of lashes apply to underside. Fluff and separate with comb
Starting at the base of the lash gently work it back and forth while moving it out to the tips
If you want to add more, separate lashes with a lash comb between coats separated lashes as a
final step
SHADES SELECTION
Adapt the color to the person’s age and style
Brown
Black
Blue
Clear
To keep wet mascara from smudging after it’s on Bow dries on the coolest setting with the eyes
closed
Skin Care Page 42 of 137
SC #27
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
OPERATION FOR FACIALS
PLAIN FACIAL
W/ scrub
W/ high frequency
EUROPEAN FACIALS
OR
OR
1 plain facial operation
1 plain facial and 1 chemical facial
1 plain facial and 1 electrical facial
1 electrical and 1 chemical facial
2 electrical facials
2 chemical facials
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SC #28
FACIALS
State Board Performance Criteria - Pages 13, 14, 15, & 16
Technicians
1.
Washes hands before:
a.
Draping
b.
After shoes are removed
c.
Before touching face
2.
Chair & client properly draped
3.
SMA set-up & neatly maintained
4.
Cleanse eyes & lips PRIOR to cleansing face
5.
Distribute cream prior to manipulations
6.
Massage
a.
Face, neck, shoulder, & upper chest
b.
At least 3 different types of massage techniques
c.
Content, continuity, & rhythm maintained
d.
Up and outward movements
e.
Cream thoroughly removed
f.
Astringent applied
7.
Clean-up
a.
Sanitize work area
SCRUBS
State Board Performance Criteria - Page 20
Manual facial with scrub.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Cleanse
Lightly coat skin with scrub
Keep moist, lightly work the scrub. DO NOT MASSAGE
SCRUB
Carefully remove with wet towel
Give massage and complete same as manual facial
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Page 2 of 2
SC #28
MANUAL EYEBROW ARCH
State Board Performance Criteria - Page 29
1.
2.
3.
4.
6.
Drape
a.
Chair – head rest
b.
Client (NO Foot drape required)
Cleanse gently
a.
Eyebrows
b.
Eye area
Eye pads
a.
Must be wet enough to cling – NOT dripping
b.
Must NOT cover working area
(preferred shape
)
Preparation
a.
Make ring moisten top and bottom side with witch
hazel. This is used for wiping brows when tweezing.
b.
Warm brows with warm wet cotton.
Technique
a.
Use two fingers to stretch skin taut and epilate hairs
between fingers.
b.
Epilate in direction of growth.
c.
Tweeze hairs one at a time.
d.
After procedure, wipe brow with astringent
Skin Care Page 45 of 137
SC #29
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology / Esthetician Department
GLANDS OF THE SKIN
There are two types of duct glands in the skin. They extract materials from the blood to
form new substances. The sudoriferous glands or sweat glands excrete sweat and the
sebaceous glands or oil glands secrete sebum.
1.
Sudoriferous Glands (sweat glands).
Practically all parts of the body are supplied with sweat glands more
on the palms, soles of the feet, forehead and armpits.
a.
Tubular type – consists of a coiled base or fundus and a tube
like duct which terminates at the skin surface to form a sweat
pore.
b.
Functions like a miniature kidney to eliminate waste from the body. The
sudoriferous glands excrete 28% of all body waste.
c.
Excretion of sweat is controlled by the nervous system.
d.
Activity is greatly increased by heat, exercise, mental excitement and certain drugs.
e.
Normally, one to two pints of liquids containing salts, are
eliminated daily.
2.
Sebaceous Glands, (oil glands).
The normal body contains about 600,000 sebaceous oil glands. They are found in all parts
of the body, except the palms and soles of the feet. They are more numerous in the face
and axilla.
a.
Sacular type – consists of little sacs whose duct opens into the hair follicle. The
follicle may or may not contain a hair.
b.
hair.
They secrete sebum which lubricates the skin and preserves the softness of the
Every hair follicle has its own sebaceous gland. The job of these glands is to keep
Growing hair well lubricated so that it is not dry and brittle when it reaches the
surface. The size of the sebaceous gland varies. They are largest where hairs are
least in number.
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DISEASES OF THE SEBACEOUS GLANDS
The following information sheet lists several common diseases of the oil glands which
the cosmetologist and estheticians should be able to identify and understand.
1.
Comedone or blackheads – worm –like mass of hardened sebum, mostly on the
face, forehead, and nose. Often more between the ages of 13 to 20- during the adolescent
period the oil glands are more active.
If severe, medical attention is necessary.
2.
Milia – or whiteheads – caused by an accumulated mass of sebaceous matter beneath the skin.
Occurs on any part of the face. Cosmetologist are not permitted to open the skin and remove.
3.
Rosacea – may be called acne rosacea. Chronic inflammatory congestion of the cheeks and nose.
Caused by poor digestion, over-indulgence in alcohol, over exposure to extreme climates, constipation,
faulty elimination and hyperacidity.
Diet should not consist of hot, highly spiced or seasoned foods.
Rosacea has three stages as a rule:
a.
Starts with slight pinkness all over the face – varies with temperature.
b.
Affexts the capillaries- often become so dilated thy are apparent to the naked eye. Large pores,
oiliness and comedowns result.
c.
Disfiguring – entire face becomes congested, even after treatment the condition may become
chronic, although dormant for years.
4.
Steatoms or Wen- sebaceous cyst- subcutaneous tumor of the sebaceous glands – contents consists
of sebum-pea to orange in size – usually occurs on the scalp, neck, and back.
5.
Asteatosis – dry skin – deficiency of sebum – due to old age or some illness. Sometimes caused by
alkali found in some soaps.
6.
scalp.
Seborrhea – excessive secretion of the oil glands – oil or shiny condition of the nose, forehead or
Exists in two forms which are both referred to as dandruff.
a.
Seborrhea oleosa – oily dandruff
b.
Seborrhea sicca – dry dandruff
DISEASES OF THE SUDORIFEROUS GLANDS
The following diseases or disorders of the sudoriferous glands usually require medical
treatment.
1.
Anidrosis – lack of perspiration and may result in fever or certain skin diseases.
2.
Hyperidrosis – excessive perspiration, caused by excessive heat or body weakness.
Mostly affects armpits, joints and feet.
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3.
Miliaria rubra - prickly heat – red in color, burns and itches. Usually caused by exposure
to excessive heat.
4.
Chromidrosis – discolored perspiration, very rare and usually caused by nervous disorder.
The excretion is brown, yellow or bluish in color.
5.
Hemidrosis – bloody sweat – similar to chromidrosis except the excretion is of a bloody
type fluid. Very rare – usually follows hysteria or extreme nervous excitement.
6.
Hydrocystoma – cysts of the coil-ducts – chronic, non-inflammatory disorder – usually
found on the face – scattered, isolated, deep-seated, persistant, clear vesicles. Washerwomen, laundresses and those exposed to moisture and heat.
7.
Uridrosis – excretion smells like urine – may occur with chromidrosis.
8.
Sudamen – non-inflammatory – consists of tiny pimples that do not contain pus, but are
filled with perspiration, It is caused from an obstruction of the ducts and causes intense
itching
9.
Miliary fever – sweating sickness – infectious – high fever, profuse sweating and
produces sudamina (su-dam-i-na) (obstruction of the ducts).
10.
Broidrosis or Osmidrosis – foul smelling – usually noticed in the armpits or feet.
DERMATOLOGY
Primary lesions:
1.
Macule -
a small discolored spot on the surface of the skin; neither
raised nor sunken; usually found in rashes, such as
measles, freckles, tattoos.
2.
Papule -
a small elevation or pimple containing no fluid, but may
develop so later to contain pus. Moles, warts.
3.
Wheal -
raised ridge, caused by a blow of a whip, bits of an insect
or hives. Type of papule.
4.
Tubercle –
solid elevation of the skin, varies from size of a flaxseed
to size of a hickory nut.
5.
Tumor (phyma)
external swelling varies in size, shape and color.
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6.
Vesicle -
small elevation, contains a serum-like fluid, such as a
blister.
7.
Nodules -
larger papules – above, level with or beneath skin
surface. Ex: Nodular secondary or tertiary syphilis
epitheliomas, xanthomae. Large nodules are called
tumors.
8.
Bulla-
(bleb) blister containing a serum-like fluid, similar to
a vesicle, but larger.
9.
Pustule -
elevation having an inflamed base, contains pus.
Secondary Lesions:
1.
Scale -
(squama) a dry or greasy separated protion of the
epidermis. Ex: dandruff, psoriasis
2.
Crusts -
(scabs) 3 varieties
a.
blood crusts- red-black in color
b.
pus crusts – yellow-green in color
c.
serum crusts – honey-colored
3.
4.
Excoriation- (abrasion) raw surface
Fissure –
crack in the skin, penetration into the derma, like chapped hands or
lips. Congenital syphilis, athlete’s foot.
Ulceropen lesion with formation of pus upon the surface of the skin.
Ulcers of legs, tertiary syphilis.
5.
6.
Scar-
the tissue formed after the healing of a wound or an ulcer.
7.
Stain -
abnormal discoloration remaining after the disappearance of moles,
freckles or liver spots or sometimes after certain diseases.
Tertiary Lesions:
Third degree – needs a physician. Usually skin cancer.
Inflammatory Skin Conditions
1.
Boils -
Furuncles-Carbuncles – Large pustules due to invasion of bacteria.
If there is only one core, they are furuncles and more than one they
Are carbuncles.
2.
Dermatitis - Any inflammatory skin disease.
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3.
Dermattits Medicamentosa – Inflammation of the skin due to irritation caused
by drugs taken internally.
4.
Dermatitis Venenata – An inflammation of the skin due to drug or other
irritating substance being applied to the skin such as acid, alkali,
hair dyes and strong rinses.
5.
Eczema -
6.
Herpes Simplex – Cold sore – Herpes Zoster – On other parts of the body it may
produce a scaly type lesion which looks like shingles on a roof –
it is commonly called shingles. It is on the body. Medical care
required.
7.
Miliaria Rubra – Inflammation of the sweat glands – small red pimples – called
prickly heat.
8.
Psoriasis –
9.
An inflammation of the skin appearing as red scaly patches,
papules, vesicles, pustules or fissures. Secretion of yellowish
or colorless sticky fluid which dries to form crusts – severe
itching. Usually worse in cold climates – should have doctors
care – NOT INFECTOUS
Chronic inflammation of the skin – dry, scaly patches of a silvery
colored scab – when these patches are lifted, tiny bleeding points
may be noticed. The real cause is unknown, but food and nerves
may be partly responsible. Resists treatment – should be treated
by physician.
Pityriasis Pilaris – Chronic inflammatory disease with eruptions of papules
surrounding the hair follicles, each papule being pierced by a
hair and tipped by a horny plug or scale. REFER TO
PHYSICIAN.
10.
Impetigo Contagiosa – SCRUM-FOX- pustules appear in isolated form as in
small-pox- general weakness, faulty nutrition or hygienic
neglect.
11.
Variela –
SMALL POX-Contagious skin disease identified by the presence
of papules, vesicles and pustules and associated with fever,
headache and pains.
12.
Anthrax -
Inflammatory skin disorder caused by spore forming bacteria
small red papules, followed by formation of a pustule, vesicle
and hard swelling. Itching and burning. Gangrenous carbuncle
lesion-like caused by spore forming bacillus ( rod-shape bacteria)
13.
Erysipelas - Acute, local highly infectious (will spread rapidly). Small red
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patches appear and gradually increase in size. Burns and itches
Due to streptococcus infectious. Some cases can be fatal. REFER
TO PHYSICIAN.
14.
Ivy Dermatitis – Caused by exposure to poison ivy, oak or sumac leaves –
blisters and itches – spreads from one part of the body to another
contagious. REFER TO PHYSICIAN.
15.
Dermatitis Combustionis – type of dermatitis produced by extreme heat, or by
sun rays.
16.
Dermatitis Seborrheica - inflammation of the skin coexistent with seborrhea
originates on the scalp- oily secretions and crusts- yellowish
in color.
17.
Scabies -
Mite- burrows into skin. Moves around causing severe itching.
The difference between dermatitis and eczema is that dermatitis usually refers to
skin eruptions due to a known cause, while eczema refers to eruptions of unknown origin.
Syphilis is a chronic, infectious veneral diseases which may be hereditary,
inducing cutaneous and other lesions. Very contagious. It is characterized on the skin
By form of macules, papules, pustules, tubercles, gummata (tumor peculiar to syphilis)
Ulcerations and primary sclerosis (hardening). You must refuse to work on a client with
this condition and recommend they see a DOCTOR.
Tetanus is an acute infectious disease marked by a state of persistent spasm of the
voluntary muscles.
Skin Conditions:
1.
Albinism -
a white condition of the skin caused by absence of pigment.
2.
Asteatosis -
lack of secretion of sebaceous matter – dry skin. Caused by
old age or constitutional disorder – alkaline in soap, etc.
3.
Chloasma -
patches of increased pigment on the skin- brown patches
frequently found on the face.
4.
Cicatrices -
scar- skin or film which forms from a wound.
5.
Keloid -
over- development of scar tissue after the healing of a wound.
6.
Lentigo -
freckles- tiny patches of increased pigment usually occur on
sensitive skins for a protection against sun.
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7.
Leucoderma -an absence of pigment in patches- Also called Vitiligo.
8.
Milia -
9.
Nevi – (Nevus, Naevus)-moles or birthmarks – pigmentations due to increased
number of cells in the layers of the epidermis with many fine blood
vessels throughout the area. Cause unknown.
10.
Urticaria –
hives or nettle rash.
11.
Warts -
are outgrowths of the papillary layer of the corium with a large
mass of covering of epithelial cells. The medical name is Verucca.
12.
Xanthoma - small yellow growths of the skin – slightly raised above the surface
varies from size of pinhead to a bean- found particularly around
rims of eyelids.
small whitish nodules – due to retention of sebum- more
often seen on cheeks, forehead and eyelids.
Symptoms – Sign of disease
A.
B.
Subjective – can be felt, has itching, pain, burning.
Objective – can be seen as in pimples, pustules, or inflammation.
ACNE
Acne is a chronic inflammatory disease in and around the setaceous oil glands.
Acne chiefly affects the face in the form of pustules, papules or tubercles. The cause is
generally held to be microbic, but adolescence factors and disturbances of the digestive
tract are also main causes.
The different forms of acne are:
1.
Acne vulgaris or simplex – common pimple inflammatory skin disorder- chiefly
on face- associated with blackheads and oily skin. More common
in youth.
2.
Acne pauulosa – popular lesion predominate – elevated- contains no fluid.
3.
Acne pustulosa – pustular lesions are present – inflamed and contains pus.
4.
Acne albida – presence of milia- whiteheads in acne.
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5.
Acne hypertrphica (hi-per-tro-hic-ka) – acne scars – varies with the severity of
the lesions.
6.
Acne artificialis – cause by the application of external irritants or drugs taken
internally.
7.
Acne indurate – deep seated hard tubercular lesions- mostly on face, neck and
back.
8.
Acne cachecticorum – occurs in anemia victims or of some other weakening
disease.
9.
Acne keratosa (follicularis pilaris)- eruption of papules consists of horny plugs
projecting from the hair follicles- inflammatory.
10.
Acne urticata – abrasions accompanied by urticaria (ur-ti-ka-re-a) wheals and
sever itching develops; hive, nettle rash.
11.
Acne rosacea – usually affects the nose – the blood vessels are involved since the
circulation of the blood is disturbed.
This area does not have the normal resistance to infection and often pustules develop.
The skin takes on a bluish red or brownish discoloration.
12.
Acne punctata – red papules in which blackheads are usually found.
13.
Acne cilaiaris – acne at the edges of the eyelids.
14.
Acne generalis – acne over entire surface of the body.
TRICHOLOGY – TECHNICAL TERMS
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Capilli – The head
Cilia – The eyelashes
Supercilila – The eyebrows
Sarba – The face
Vibrissae – The nostrils
Tragi – The ears
Hirci – The Armpits
Pubes – The pubic region
Melanin – Coloring matter of hair
Keratin – Chief composition of hair
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11.
12.
13.
14.
15.
16.
Hydroscopic – Quality of hair to absorb moisture
Porosity – Ability of hair to absorb moisture
Lepcthrix –When the hair becomes covered with scales
Imbrication – Needle like points on the hair
Tinea – Ringworm
It is - Inflammation
Skin Care Page 54 of 137
Revised 4/95
SC #30
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PROCEDURE SHEET
HOW TO GIVE A STANDARD ELECTRICAL FACIAL
(WALL PLATE)
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Same as for a plain facial with the addition of the Wall Plate and its electrodes.
INTRODUCTION:
The electrical facial may be varied to suit the client's need. The Faradic or
Sinusoidal current produces mechanical massage, and the Galvanic current
produces a chemical effect. The effects of the currents upon the body must be
clearly understood before attempting to give an electrical facial.
PROCEDURE:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Assemble materials and drape client.
Prepare electrodes for use with the Galvanic current.
a.
Wrap both electrodes with cotton moistened with water.
b.
Client lies on canvas pad or hold metal electrode, cosmetologist uses
carbon ball.
Apply cleansing cream and remove thoroughly.
Apply negative Galvanic - 5 to 7 minutes.
a.
Roll carbon ball electrode (wrapped with water moist cotton) lightly over
face and neck for 5 to 7 minutes.
b.
Concentrate on comedone areas.
Remove Galvanic carbon ball electrodes.
a.
Replace with wrist electrode.
Apply tissue (massage) cream.
Apply Faradic or Sinusoidal current - 10 to 15 minutes.
a.
Give routine massage movements for 10 tp 15 minutes
b.
Client lies on canvas pad, cosmetologist uses wrist electrode.
c.
Use Sinusoidal current for nervous type client , limit to 10 minutes
(deeper penetration, but smoother)
d.
Concentrate on fatty tissue area.
Remove tissue (massage) cream.
Apply astringent.
Skin Care Page 55 of 137
How to Give a Standard Electrical Facial (Wall Plate) (Con't)
SC #30
Page 2
10.
Remove wrist electrode and replace with carbon ball electrode wrapped in wet cotton.
a.
Cotton should be moistened with astringent.
11.
Apply positive Galvanic - 2 to 4 minutes.
a.
Apply for 2 to 4 minutes.
b.
Client lies on canvas pad, cosmetologist uses carbon ball electrode.
c.
Concentrate on large pore areas.
Apply make-up.
12.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
1.
2.
3.
Have instructor check before you turn current on.
Do not break contact with client while current is turned on.
Advance and decrease current slowly, so you do not cause client discomfort.
4.
5.
Never turn current so high as to be painful to client or cosmetologist.
Do not use the negative Galvanic current over skin having broken capillaries
or a pustular acne condition.
Do not use Faradic or Sinusoidal current if the client's face is florid, if the
client has broken capillaries on the skin, high blood pressure or any pustular
condition of the skin.
Client and cosmetologist remove watch and large rings.
6.
7.
Skin Care Page 56 of 137
SC #31
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
Iontophoresis




Iontophoresis (cataphoresis) introduces watersoluble products into skin with electric current.
Creates an exchange of negative and positive
ions.
-Chemical reaction in the skin creates an
acidic environment
Galvanic current helps solution penetrate
deeper into skin.
Current flows through conductive solutions
from positive and negative polarities.
Skin Care Page 57 of 137
Revised 5-2001
SC #32
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
INFORMATION & PROCEDURE SHEET
MASSAGE MOVEMENTS & PLAIN FACIALS
INTRODUCTION: Massage is a method of treating the superficial parts of the body for
health and beauty. Each message movement is applied in a way to
accomplish a particular purpose. Massage is performed either by hand,
mechanical, or electrical. Stimulating or soothing effect may be
produced depending on the method used. The hand massage is the most
common method. Electrical appliances used most commonly: Therapeutic
lamps, high frequency.
I.
MASSAGE TREATMENT
A.
Combination of Movements
1.
One or more basic movements will be used with each massage
B.
Results
1.
Depend upon amount of
a.
Pressure
b.
Direction of movement
c.
Duration of each type of manipulation
C.
Origin of muscle
1.
The fixed attachment of one end of a muscle to a bone or tissue
D.
Insertion of a muscle
1.
The attachment of the opposite end of the origin of the muscle to another muscle
2.
Or to a movable bone or joint
E.
Correct direction for massaging
1.
F.
II.
Massaging from insertion the of the muscle to the origin
IMPORTANT REMINDER:
1.
NEVER give massage to clients with
a.
High blood pressure
b.
Heart condition
c.
Stroke victim
d.
Refer client to physician first
2.
Avoid vigorous massage of joints if client has arthritis
3.
Adjust touch to client’s needs and comfort
BASIC MANIPULATIONS USED IN MASSAGE
A.
EFFLEURAGE PROCEDURE
1.
Definition
a.
Is a light continuous stroking movement
b.
Applied with fingers (digital) and palms (palmar) in slow, rhythmic
manner
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Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32
2.
3.
4.
5.
B.
c.
NO PRESSURE IS USED
d.
Palms work over large surfaces
e.
Fingertips work over small surfaces such as around eyes
Purpose
a.
Used for SOOTHING and RELAXING effects
Where used
a.
Forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulders, neck, chest, arms, and hands
Finger position for stroking
a.
Curve fingers slightly
b.
Use cushions of fingertips only (not ends)
Palm position for stroking
a.
Hold whole hand loosely
b.
Keep wrist and fingers flexible
c.
Curve fingers to conform to area being massaged
PETRISSAGE PROCEDURE
1.
Definition
a.
Is a kneading movement where skin and underlying flesh is grasped
between fingers and palm
b.
Tissues are lifted from underlying structures and squeezed, rolled,
or pinched with LIGHT, FIRM PRESSURE
2.
Purpose
a.
Used to invigorate parts being massage
b.
Gives deeper stimulation to muscles and nerves, skin glands, and
improves circulation
c.
Movements should be rhythmic, not jerky
3.
Where used
a.
Usually limited to back, shoulder, and arms
b.
Digital kneading can be done on the cheeks
4.
Fulling
a.
Form of petrissage used mainly on arms
b.
Fingers of both hands grasp arm and apply kneading movement
across flesh
c.
Only LIGHT PRESSURE is used on
1)
Underside of client’s forearm
2)
Between shoulder and elbow
C.
FRICTION PROCEDURE
1.
Definition
a.
Is a deep rubbing movement-requiring pressure on skin while moving it
over the underlying structures
2.
Purpose
a.
Has marked influence on circulation and glandular activity of skin
3.
Where used
a.
Scalp, arms, and hands
b.
Circular friction can be done on face
4.
Variations
a.
Chucking
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Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet
1)
b.
c.
Page 3 SC #32
Accomplished by gasping flesh firmly in one hand and moving hand up
and down along bone, while other hand keeps arm or leg in a steady
position
Rolling
1)
Tissue are compressed against bone and twisted around arm or leg
2)
Both hands are active as flesh is twisted down the arm in same
direction
Wringing
1)
Vigorous movements where hands are placed a little distance a part
on both sides of arm or leg
2)
A twisting motion is applied against bones in opposite direction while
working hands downward
D.
PERCUSSION OR TAPOTEMENT
1.
Definition
a.
Are tapping, slapping and hacking movement
b.
It’s done in a rhythmic and springy fashion with the pads of the fingers or
the side of the palms
2.
Purpose
a.
This form is the most STIMULATING
b.
Apply with care and discretion
c.
Increases blood circulation
d.
Promotes muscle contraction for better tone and healthy glow to skin
3.
Where used
a.
Over large areas of the face
b.
Hacking on arms and back
c.
Tapping
1)
Facials with light digital tapping
a)
Bring fingers down against skin in rapid succession
b)
Keep fingers flexible to create an even force over area
d.
Slapping
1)
Palms used in light, firm, and rapid slapping movement’s
a)
Wrists and outer edges of hands are used
b)
Fast, light, firm, flexible motions in alternate succession
E.
VIBRATION
1.
Definition0
a.
It is a shaking movement accompanied by rapid muscular contractions
in YOUR arms while pads of fingers are pressed firmly on point of
application.
b.
HIGHLY STIMULATING
1.
Limit to a few seconds per spot
2.
Mechanical vibrators can also be used
Benefits of massage
1.
Increases blood circulation
2.
Increases lymph circulation
3.
Stimulates glandular activity
4.
Tones muscles
F.
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Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32
5.
6.
7.
8.
E.
Soothes and rests nerves
Makes skin soft and pliable
Reduces fat cells
Relieves congestion and pain
CAUTIONS IN MASSAGE
1.
Keep the skin well covered with cream when giving a massage
2.
Massage toward the origin of the muscles
3.
Keep a light touch on the face and go lightly over the trachea
4.
Keep manipulations smooth and rhythmical
5.
Don’t break connections with the client after starting manipulations unless it is
absolutely necessary
6.
When ending manipulations, gradually feather fingers off the client
7.
Observe proper sanitary measures!
a.
This is the most important step when giving a facial
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Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet
Page 5 SC #32
PROCEDURE SHEETS
PLAIN FACIAL, ARCH WITH TWEEZERS, DAYTIME MAKE-UP
III.
PLAIN FACIAL with Arch, Scrub, and pack or mask
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
J.
Wash hand
Clean station
Setup table and SMA
1.
Have all containers and bottles properly labeled
a.
Astringent
b.
Water (optional)
c.
Container with cotton, cotton balls or cotton pads
d.
Cleansing cream
e.
Massage cream
f.
Scrub
g.
Mask or pack
h.
Soiled container
i.
Trash bag
j.
Six-well tray
2.
Items on SMA
a.
Tissues and strips of tissues
b.
Sanitized spatula
c.
Tweezers (if giving an arch)
d.
Clean towels
1)
For removal of scrub or mask/pack
2)
Head drape (terry towel or headband with shower cap)
3)
Draping back of chair
4)
Towel for across clients chest (Barbee Towel)
5)
Towel for head rest
e.
Booties
f.
Sheet (optional)
Wash hands (also whenever they get soiled)
Ask client to remove jewelry (technician needs to remove their jewelry)
Drape chair
1.
With Sheet
2.
Headrest with terry towel
3.
Back of chair with terry towel
Drape client (ask client to change into facial gown before draping them)
4.
Head drape
5.
Body
6.
Remove shoes and place booties on feet
7.
Wrap sheet over the client (as shown during demonstration)
Recline Client
Wash hands
Cleanse heavy make-up from the face
1.
Eye make-up first (eyebrows, eyelids then eyelashes)
2.
Then lipstick (from corner or mouth to center of lips)
Skin Care Page 62 of 137
Page 6
Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32
3.
K.
L.
M.
N.
O.
P.
Q.
R.
S.
T.
IV.
Eyebrow arch – optional (If client request eyebrow arch with tweezers,
implement service at this point)
Then cleanse entire face and neck
Remove cleansing cream with tissues (mitts)
Apply scrub (optional)
Apply massage cream to face, neck, chest, back of shoulders, and arms
1.
Have client slightly sit-up and apply massage cream to shoulders & arms
(above elbows)
Give facial manipulations as to technique taught (don’t forget to feather off)
Remove all massage cream
1.
Make sure all massage cream if removed especially on shoulders,
back of neck, and decollate
Apply pack or mask (Remove with warm towels) (optional)
Apply astringent or skin freshener (all areas that massage cream was applied)
(Purpose is to close the client's pores)
Clean-up and sanitize work area (if not applying make-up)
Make-up – Optional - Client is ready for their make-up
(Reset you table set-up and the SMA)
EYEBROW ARCH
A.
B.
C.
Prepare client
1.
If client has not had a facial
a.
Check chair for safety and if it's operational
b.
Drape with a single towel over the head rest
c.
Always protect client from touching the back of the chair with a towel
d.
Set client in a reclining chair
1)
Drape client's head with Sanex strip or head band then a shower cap
or towel
2)
Place Sanex strip around neck and place make-up cape
e.
Wash hands
Discuss with client suitable style for their eyebrows
1.
Mark with eyebrow pencil
a.
Where the eyebrow begins
b.
Where the highest point of the arch
c.
The end of your eyebrow should be
Cover eyes with cotton pledgets moistened with astringent or water (not dry or dripping
wet)
1.
Make the pledgets into crescent shape
2.
Do not cover working area
3.
If facial has not been done previously
a.
Clean off all eyebrow pencil and eye make-up
b.
Soften brows with hot towel or
c.
With a strip of cotton soaked in hot water
4.
Make a ring with cotton
a.
Keep cotton saturated with antiseptic around a finger to
wipe hairs that collect on tweezers
Skin Care Page 63 of 137
Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet
D.
E.
V.
Page 7 SC #32
TWEEZING
1
Stretch skin taunt with index finger and thumb
2.
Epilate hairs between fingers grasping individual hair with a quick motion in the
direction in which the hair grow
a.
Sponge tweezed area frequently with cotton moistened with an
antiseptic lotion
1)
The purpose is to prevent infection
3.
Shape brows beneath the brow area
a.
Avoid pulling brows at the top
b.
Only remove stray hairs at top of brow
4.
Apply astringent
a.
To close the pores
Clean-up and sanitize work area, if only giving an arch
DAY-TIME MAKE-UP
A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H.
I.
After a facial
1.
Apply skin freshener or astringent according to skin type
2.
Apply moisturizer according to skin type
Foundation
1.
Apply in seven dots
a.
Neck
b.
Both sides of face
c.
Chin
d.
Cheeks
e.
Nose
f.
Forehead
2.
Blend foundation
a.
Do not leave a line of demarcation along hairline or jaw area
Rouge (Cream blush) or powder blush
1.
Cream rouge over cream foundation
2.
Powder blush over powder
Powder (loose or packed)
1.
Press firmly so it will adhere
2.
Cover entire face, neck, and eyelids
3.
Brush off excess with cotton
4.
Final stroke in a downward motion
Eyebrow pencil
1.
Light pencil strokes
Eye Shadow
1.
Blend upward and outward motion
2.
Keeping depth of color according to shape of eyes and type of make-up
Eyeliner
1.
Apply close to eyelashes
Mascara
1.
Upper lashes heavier than lower
2.
False lashes may be applied at this time
Lipstick
Skin Care Page 64 of 137
Page 8
Massage, Plain Facial, Arch, and Daytime Make-up Information and Procedure Sheet SC #32
1.
2.
3.
4.
J.
K.
L.
M.
N.
O.
P.
Use small swab – draw outline with lips closed
Retrace outline with lips taunt over teeth
Fill in lips, allow to set, blot with tissue
For better lasting
a.
Powder over first application and reapply – blot
Final touch
1.
Bathe face lightly with skin lotion on cotton
2.
Gives a dewy appearance
3.
Remove all traces of powder from lashes and brows
Remove head drape
Remove line of demarcation around hairline by blending in powder
Precautions
1.
Do not double dip in shadows, lipsticks, or mascara
2.
Do not blow excessive product off if using a brush to apply make-up
3.
Sharpen eyebrow, eyeliner, or lip pencil before and after use
4.
Use only sanitized brushes or disposable make-up applicators
5.
Used shaker-type container for loose powder
6.
Never apply lip color directly from the container to the client’s lips
7.
Keep your work area clean, neat, and well organized
Clean-up and sanitize work area
Empty trash
Sanitize all implements and then store in clean container
Skin Care Page 65 of 137
Revised 3/94
SC #33
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
MODALITIES
HIGH FREQUENCY: Momo Terminal
1.
Physical Effects: Causes the circulatory system, blood stream, lymphatic, etc., to
concentrate and circulate rapidly thorough the area treated. Dries moist eruptions.
2.
Uses: Scalp and facial treatment. (Where state laws permit, and excellent method for
removing warts, moles, etc., by fulguration). Not allowed in California.
3.
Objective: To provide nutriment to hair follicles and skin tissue through activation
of the blood stream. To remove waste, promote metabolism through activation of the
lymphatic system. To remove congestion, discoloration from bruises, etc. To
promote glandular activity.
4.
Electrodes employed: The glass "rake" electrode inserted in the large insulated
handle with cord attached for scalp. The glass "body" or "facial" electrode inserted
in the same handle for facials. Use the glass bar electrode for indirect application.
The special "fulguration" electrode with the fine wire projecting from the end
inserted in the same handle for sparking warts, moles, used by the medical field.
FARADIC: Bi Terminal
1.
Physical Effects: Mechanical, massage
2.
Direct Effects: Causes muscle contraction through electrical stimulation to the
motor nerves. Increases glandular activity through electrical stimulation. This
current is not recommended for clients that are very nervous.
3.
Uses: Facial and scalp treatment.
4.
Objective: To relieve spastic muscles (stiffness) To stimulate glandular activity for
nutriment and life to hair follicles.
5.
Electrodes Employed: Wristband electrode with contact disc padded with wet
cotton or gauze and attached to technician's wrist during routine massage movements.
Canvas pad is placed under clients shoulder. For scalp, the special metal toothed
hair brush (not supplied with standard set of accessories).
Skin Care Page 66 of 137
Page 2
Modalities (Con't) SC #33
SINUSOIDAL: Bi Terminal
1.
Physical Effects: Mechanical massage (muscle contraction). Produced by an
alternating current by induction through a transformer. Does not have a buzzer. If
used to long, muscle fatigue can develop.
2.
Direct Effect: Greater stimulation, less irritation, deeper penetration into the tissues
and soothes the nerves. The characteristics used objectives and electrodes for the
sinusoidal current are similar or the same as for the faradic current. The sinusoidal
current is simply a more refined and smoother current producing rhythmic
contractions, more agreeable to the ultra nervous type of client.
GALVANIC: Bi Terminal
1.
Physical Effects: Chemical
2.
Direct Effects: Breaks up certain chemical combinations and drives selected
elements into tissues (phoresis). Influences chemical element already present in the
tissues.
3.
Uses: Facial and scalp treatments.
4.
Objective: To bleach sallow skin by the chemical action of selected lotions through
phoresis. To close pores by the astringent action of the current. To control
excessive oiliness by the astringent action of the current. To remove superfluous hair
electrolysis.
5.
Electrodes Employed: Canvas pad, carbon cylinder or carbon ball electrode
wrapped in cotton wet with lotion selected for phoresis. Large, nickel-plated handle
or carbon cylinder electrode wrapped in wet cotton and held by client in both hands
during treatment. Electrolytic cup (not supplied with standard set of accessories)
for direct cleansing action. Metal toothed for scalp applications. Needle holder and
needle for electrolysis.
6.
Galvanic Polarity Effects: The effects of the positive and the negative poles of the
galvanic current are the exact opposites of one another.
The following list of these effects is arranged for easy memorizing by remembering
the key words, "PASSAIC NABISCO".
P-ositive
A-cid reaction
S-lows blood circulation
S-edative and soothing
A-stringent and firms tissues
I-ron or bare metal electrodes
never used on direct skin
C-loses pores through astringent
properties
7.
N-egative
A-lkaline reaction
B-lood circulation increased
I-rritation and stimulating
S-oftens hardened tissue
C-austic in excessive concentration,
destroying hair follicles by
electrolysis
O-pens pores and cleans by
direct action
Galvanic Notes:
Skin Care Page 67 of 137
Modalities (Con't)
Page 3 SC #33
Electrodes and tissue surface must be moist for satisfactory galvanic treatment,
except in electrolysis.
The current strength must be increased and decrease gradually in galvanic treatments
to prevent painful stimulus to motor points and nerves.
To obtain the best results, use sufficient current strength for the client to definitely
sense the presence of the current, but not enough to bring discomfort.
The negative pole drives in the alkalines.
The positive pole drives in the acids.
Skin Care Page 68 of 137
Revised 3/00
SC #34
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PRECAUTIONS
WHEN USING FACIAL MACHINE
VAPORIZER
1.
Check the WATER level of the vaporizer
a.
DO NOT over fill
b.
DO NOT RUN DRY
A warning from the manufacture is as follows: The automatic shut off is a safety feature
and should not be used as an off switch. Always keep your heating coil covered with
water. Should the unit shut itself off, turn switch off, wait 5 minutes, refill with water
and turn unit back on.
c.
Remove the cap and pour distilled water into the glass jar up to the
TOP RED LINE, not over it.
d.
DO NOT put aromatic oils into the water.
2.
Never point vapor at the client until the vapor is coming out.
3.
Vapor arm should be at 45 degree turn knob to release nozzle angle and
away from client about 12 to 21 inches.
a.
Set timer for 7 – 12 minutes (time required to generate steam)
b.
When the steam starts coming out the nozzle re-set the timer for
required time needed for application. Turn active mist switch on
and adjust distance between client and steamer in accordance to
skin condition and within the client’s comfort.
4.
Use approximately for 10 – 20 minutes.
5.
Do not use on asthmatics or client’s with respiratory conditions.
6.
Clean vaporizer with white vinegar and distilled water. 1 to 3 ratio
followed be distilled water being run thru machine.
a.
To remove glass jar, make sure steamer is not hot, hold glass jar
With one hand, and with the other hand turn knob counter clockWise and remove jar. - C A U T I O N – Do not touch heating
element.
VACUUM / SPRAY ATOMIZER
This system aids in cleansing the skin surface by allowing easier removal of excess oils
from the surface of the skin. The spray system gently and uniformly distributes lotions
or astringents on the skin to achieve refreshing or rinsing action.
Skin Care Page 69 of 137
Revised 3/00
SC #34
Precautions con’t
1.
DO NOT attach spray bottle to vacuum suction hose it will be sucked into
the machine and damage it
2.
Fill spray bottles with water type lotions, NO cream or oils (use astringent,
freshener types)
3.
Hold bottle 18 inches from clients face / shield eyes and cover air outlet on
atomizer.
4.
Never point directly up / at nose.
VACUUM
Prepares for extraction and stimulates the lymphatic system.
1.
Insert the proper ventouse into the vacuum air line
a.
Adjust and test suction.
b.
Finger covers air hole on ventouse
2.
Adjust the vacuum intensity by turning the intensity control knob
clockwise for greater vacuum, and counter clockwise for less vacuum.
3.
To release suction, remove your finger tip from the small hole.
4.
Vacuum may have cotton for filter.
5.
Vacuum moist skin.
a.
Disincrustation solution, warm vapors, multi active toner.
6.
Use up and out techniques.
BRUSHING
This system assist in performing a more thorough cleansing of the skin, features a variety
of attachments designed for different functions, Special features include a speed control
for adjusting to different skin types or procedures.
1. Insert the proper attachment (brush) into the head.
2. Turn power switch “on”.
3. Faster speeds are more abrasive
4. Brush must be dampened
Skin Care Page 70 of 137
Revised 3/00
SC #34
5. Pressure must not be used.
6. Limit time in relation to skin sensitivity
7. Never use over troubled skin such as inflammation, pustules, abrasions, and
sunburn.
8. To remove the attachment, turn the power switch off and pull out the
attachment from the head with slight force.
Skin Care Page 71 of 137
SC #35
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISON
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PROCESS OF EXFOLIATION
Exfoliation is a process that removes dead cells from the surface or the skin,
which gives a fresh clear appearance. This cosmetic process aided by
abrasive, biological, enzymatic or acidic products only removes dead surface
cells and the products of keratinization in the horny stratum corneum of the
epidermis. Skin peeling treatment improves tone and quality of the
complexion. If using Retin A or taking Accutane client should NOT have
any type of exfoliation treatment.
ABRASIVE PROCESS:
Mild is used on the face ( examples: oatmeal, corn meal, whoa germ).
Medium is used for body (examples: salts, ground almonds).
Hard is used for feet (examples: pumice, buff puff, loofa, walnut shells,
Apricot kernels).
Grains, granules, brushes other such items are abrasive to the skin and
mechanically “slough” off dead surface cells. May take the form of a scrub,
natural brush, loofa.
BIO-PEEL RUBBING PROCESS:
Gum or wax base, adheres to the dead surface cells. The area is then rolled
off the skin with light friction massage taking the surface cells with it.
ENZYMATIC PROCESS:
Fruit/animal enzymes are called “Biological Scalpels” as they digest the
non-living protein of the dead surface skin cells. Look for papain,
bromelaine and pancreatic enzymes. Papaya produces Papin/ Pineapple
produces Bromelaine/ Hogs Pancreas produces Pepsin-Tripsin.
Skin Care Page 72 of 137
SC #35
HYDROXY ACID PROCESS:
ALPHA:(One hydroxy molecule attached to the 1st carbon bond)
AHA products dissolves the intercellular “glue” that holds the stratum
corneum cells together(N.M.F.). Found naturally in milk or molasses (lattic
acid), sugar cane (glycolic acid), wine (tartic acid) and apples (malic acid).
BETA:(Two hydroxy molecules attached to the 2nd carbon bond).
BHA products cause exfoliation of the surface cells and replacement of new
cells from below. Found in citrus fruit (citric acid) and wintergreen leaves
or willow bark (salicylic acid).
Skin Care Page 73 of 137
SC #36
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
STUDENT CONTRACT
Glass Electrodes (Facial and High Frequency)
I___________________________ will be responsible for the proper use and care of the
Print Name
glass electrodes. I understand if one breaks while checked out to me from the lab or
instructor of the class, that I will have to pay a fee of $20.00 per each electrode that is
returned broken.
____________________________________
Print Name
____________________________________
Signature
________________
Date
Skin Care Page 74 of 137
Revised 4/95
SC #37 - F 1
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PROCEDURE SHEET
LESSON TITLE: How to do a waxing.
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Heater (electric) and wax
Individual portion cup
Cotton
Corn starch
2 dishes (small plastic) - 1 soapy water, 1 clear water
Astringent
emollient cream
Sanitary maintenance towel
Wax
Spatula - wooden
2 towels (1 for the head drape, 1 for over the back of the facial chair)
Body drape - may be comb-out cape or shampoo cape
Neck strips
INTRODUCTION:
Because there are so many women today who are taking more of an interest in their personal appearance, it
is necessary that a cosmetologist has the knowledge to perform these duties in a professional and correct
manner. There are many women who do not want to go into permanent hair removal through electrolysis,
due to the expense involved. The next thing to permanent hair removal is waxing. It has to be done more
often. It does not increase the growth of the hair; if anything; it eventually weakens the follicle and will
encourage less growth. Bear in mind that the facial hair and leg hair is much weaker than the hair on the
head. It is a specialized area in cosmetology and can add a special service and profit to a salon.
INSTRUCTION:
1.
Plug in and turn on wax heater.
2.
Prepare your set-up before seating client.
3.
Sanitize hands by washing with soap and water.
4.
Drape chair.
5.
Drape client completely covering hair and clothing. Shampoo cape or
comb-out cape with neck strip are acceptable.
4.
Heat wax in heater to body temperature.
6.
Cleanse eye and eyebrow area, using cleansing cream. Be sure to
completely remove cleanser with astringent or soap and water.
7.
Apply wet eye pads..
8.
Apply talcum powder or cornstarch to area where waxing is to take
place.
9.
Test wax on inner wrist.
Skin Care Page 75 of 137
How to do a waxing. (con't)
Page 2
10.
Apply wax in the same direction that the hair grows, apply fabric strips
if needed (leave tail).
11.
Stroke with direction of growth to imbed hair, allow to cool.
12.
Slide fabric 1/4 inch, gently stretch skin and pull wax off with one
movement in the opposite direction the hair grows and close to the skin. (Very, very quickly!)
13.
When fabric isn't used, gently stretch skin and pull wax off with one
movement in the opposite direction the hair grows. (Very, very quickly!)
14.
Immediately apply pressure and gently massage.
15.
If a second application is needed do so immediately, providing the skin
is not irritated.
16.
Apply emollient cream or astringent to treated area.
17.
Best not to apply make-up for 24 hours.
PRECAUTIONS:
Do not apply wax to irritated skin, acne conditions, warts, moles or broken capillaries.
Test temperature! Be sure and have wax at body temperature or it may cause a serious burn.
Have client keep eyes closed at all times. Use eye pads and cover hair and clothing.
Be sure to sanitize your hands and use clean individual applicators and container.
Most important that you stretch skin when pulling off the wax, otherwise, it is painful.
Important to remove very, very quickly, parallel to the skin and in the opposite direction of the hair
growth.
Skin Care Page 76 of 137
Revised 11/97
SC # 38 - F#2
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
PROCEDURE SHEET
AMBER HOT WAX
ITEMS REQUIRED:
6 well tray
head & body drape
wax application
mirror
powder
cleanser (for removing hot wax)
Barbie towel for chair
SMA towel
wax applicator
fabric
astringent
cotton
soil bag
tweezers
wax & heater
pre-lotion or soapy water
soothing lotion or jell
tissue
PROCEDURE:
1.
Wash hands
2.
Prepare table set-up, SMA, and trash bag
3.
Drape client (head drape & combout cape)
4.
Consult with client
5.
Heat wax using the Amber Depilatory Heater until it melts and flows easily
6.
Prepare the areas to be waxed
a.
Cleanse
b.
Apply antiseptic
c.
Use Pure Tea Tree Oil for small areas for increase numbing effect
7.
Blot excess moisture with tissue
8.
Apply eyepads
9.
Lightly cover the same area with dusting powder (to establish the direction of the hair growth)
10.
Test temperature of wax (inside of technician’s wrist)
11.
Apply wax in the direction of hair growth
12.
Apply dense non-woven fabric in direction of hair growth
a.
Lay a strip over the area and bond well
13.
Remove wax with a quick and close to skin in the opposite direction of hair growth
a.
While holding the adjacent skin firmly
14.
Apply pressure immediately on same area with finger
15.
Smooth the treated area with lotion or jell
Skin Care Page 77 of 137
Revised 7/06
SC #39 - F#3
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
L’ELYSEE PROFESSIONAL COLD WAXING SYSTEM
STEP NO.
PRODUCT NO.
1.
SANITIZE:
A.
Hands > Use Soap & __________________L’ELYSEE
B.
Area > Water or
SANITIZER___#1
2.
Dry:
A.
B.
Towel ______________________________L’ELYSEE
Powder
SANITIZER___#2
3.
PORTION WAX:
A.
Consistency: Depending on the thickness of the hair,
choose from ________________ L’ELYSEE COLD WAX__#3
normal, medium, or coarse hair formulas.
Always start with normal formula
4.
SPREAD WAX:
A.
Stretch skin FLAT
B.
Empty wax from spatula unto skin, sideway
C.
Direction of hair growth
D.
Very thin (slightly thicker layer of wax on loose skin)
5.
PALCE STRIP:
A.
Make tail
B.
Press indirection of hair growth
C.
Slide while pressing down
6.
RIP OFF:
A.
Stretch skin FLAT
B.
Opposite direction of hair growth
C.
Parallel to skin
D.
Very, very fast
7.
PRESS: Apply pressure with hand
8.
WASH: With water
9.
SOOTHE & DISINFECT:
A.
Apply a compress, with cotton, of _____L’ELYSEE ASTRINGENT _____#4
B.
For sensitive skin use ______L’ELYSEE MOISTURIZING CUCUMBER
GEL _____#5
INGROWN HAIR REDUCTION: (home use only)
A.
Exfoliate with Loofah in shower 5 to 7 days after waxing
B.
Scrub the area in the shower with Loofah & ______L’ELYSEE SCRUB ____#6
C.
After shower massage with the ___L’ELYSEE MOISTURIZING CREAM __#7
10.
Skin Care Page 78 of 137
Revised 7/2001
SC #40 F #4
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
AFTER CARE WAXING INSTRUCTIONS FOR CLIENT
Waxing is the temporary removal of superfluous (unwanted hair). Contrary to
myth, waxing does not promote increased hair growth. Waxing does, however,
exfoliate skin cells at the same time the unwanted hairs are being epilated within
the given treatment area. You may expect some redness and/or puffiness on the
surrounding and treated areas. It is the recommendation that the client follows
the guidelines listed below after the waxing treatment.
1. AVOID the use of any cosmetic products on the treated area for at least
three hours.
2. AVOID products that contain alcohol for at least two hours.
3. AVOID using harsh cleansers or scrubs on treated areas for three days.
4. AVOID sun exposure on treated areas for one week.
5. DO NOT scratch the treated area, as the skin will be sensitive, in general,
DO NOT touch the area with soiled hands and keep your skin clean.
6. DO NOT have the same area waxed for at least 10 days.
7. In case of redness and/or puffiness, using a cold clean towel or ice could
be helpful.
8. DO NOT use any products that contain glycolic acid or retin-A on the area
waxed for at least three days.
9. If you have been using any form of rapid exfoliator like glycolic acid and/or
retin-A on your face, you should avoid waxing until you have stopped
treatment for at least 30 days.
Skin Care Page 79 of 137
Revised 7-01
SC #41 - F#6
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INDIVIDUAL LASH APPLICATION
Procedure Sheet
Suggested supplies and equipment
*Equipment could vary depending where application is performed:
Wet sanitizer
Manicure table
Hand mirror
Adhesive container
Makeup cape
Trays of eyelashes
Trays of eyelashes
Tweezers
Cotton swab
Adhesive tray
Adjustable lamp
(goose neck)
Manicure scissors
Eyelash adhesive
Eye makeup remover
(clear not to oily)
Eyelash brush
Eyelash remover
Makeup or facial chair
Tissues
Eyelid and eyelash
Cleaner
Allergy Test
Read manufactures direction:
1.
Put a drop of adhesive behind one ear.
OR
2.
Attach a single eyelash to each eyelid
Within 24 hours if one should have a negative reaction is should probably be
safe to proceed with the service.
PROCEDURE:
1. Wash hands.
2. Sanitize work area and assemble all sanitized implements to be used.
3. Drape headrest on chair, sit client and adjust headrest and chair to a
comfortable working height. Place sanex strip around neck of client
and secure makeup cape in place.
4. Extra light may be required for visibility be sure light is not in
shinning in clients eyes.
5. Remove all eye makeup. Lashes must be clean for adhesive to adhere
properly. (no oil residue).
6. Remove contact lenses if needed.
Skin Care Page 80 of 137
Revised 7-01
SC #41 - F#6
7. Comb or brush client’s lashes to ensure they are clean and free from
and debris this also separates lashes.
8. Discuss with client the length end results of lash application.
(Remember a fuller more natural is most attractive)
9. Work from behind or from side of client (avoid working directly in
front of client).
10. In the adhesive container apply a small amount of adhesive. This
dries very quickly, so only use a little at a time.
11. Use your tweezers to remove lash from tray, hold lash close to the
bulb as possible. Once lash is removed, reposition tweezers middle of
lash.
12. Brush the underside of lash over adhesive, only a small amount is
needed. Remove any excess with fingertip.
13. If client wears glasses it’s suggested to apply center lash first and
have client put the glasses on to see if a short lash is necessary.
14. Hold the lash in the tweezers at the same angle to be placed on the
natural lash.
15. Where to start application if you are aright handed start outer corner
of left eye. If you’re left-handed start outer corner of right eye
working to the inner corner. The first couple of lashes in corners of
eyes should be shorter to give a more natural appearance.
16. Start by brushing adhesive from th3e underside of the individual lash
onto the top of the client’s natural lash. From the base out to the tip.
17. Place the lash as close to but not on the lid, lay the lash on top of the
natural lash. Keep tweezers clean of adhesive.
18. Continue application to other eye starting at the outer corner and
continue to the inner corner in the same manner as before.
19. For the inside corner it may be necessary to use your thumb of free
hand to hold eyelid taut. This will permit proper placement of eyelash.
If necessary this same technique can be used for the outer corner of
the eye.
20. When applying lashes to the corners of the eyes be sure to separate the
upper lashes from the bottom until the adhesive has dried to prevent
sticking together.
Skin Care Page 81 of 137
Revised 7-01
SC #41 - F#6
PRODCEDURE FOR LOWER LASHES
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Client sits facing you. You still work from the side rather than
directly in front of them.
Client should look upward with eyes WIDE open.
Only use short lashes here.
Apply adhesive in the same manner as before. Extra adhesive may
Be required on lower lashes to ensure lasting longer.
Client will need to keep eyes open for a few extra seconds to allow
adhesive to dry.
REMINDER
Please advice the client that natural oils from the eyelids tends to dissolve
the adhesive. Lower lashes could begin to fall out after one week. Top may
last longer depending on the care from the client.
Skin Care Page 82 of 137
5/02
SC #42 - F#6A
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
Individual Eyelashes
Information to share with client
Introduction:
Every woman, regardless of age, who wishes to have beautiful eyes can wear individual
eyelashes. They are invisibly fastened to ones own lashes with tiny specks of special
adhesive. They are almost weightless, permanently curled and available in several
different lengths, colors and density. Application is save, simple and painless.
Tips for lasting beauty:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Minimum weekly refill is suggested for continual fresh eyelash beauty.
Three to eight weeks lifetime of one’s own natural lashes.
Careless or rough handling will prematurely loosen lashes.
Clean with special cleaner.
Allow 8 hours for adhesive to dry comply before handling or cleaning.
You may Shower, Bathe, Swim, even Sauna.
Let eyes dry naturally: Don’t rub.
Use dry or water color base eye shadow, but no creams.
Mascara and eyelash curlers should not be used.
Creams, cream soaps, alcohol or oil-based products should not be used on
lashes.
Caution:
If for any reason you wish to remove the eyelashes, do not try to pull them off. Ask your
operator.
Skin Care Page 83 of 137
7/01
SC #43 - F# 7
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
STRIP LASH APPLICATION
Procedure Sheet
Suggested supplies and equipment
*Equipment could vary depending where application is performed:
Wet sanitizer
Eyelash brushes
Manicure scissors
Lash adhesive
Eyelash remover
Eye makeup remover
Soiled bag
Tweezers
Eyelash curler
Adjustable light
Adhesive tray
Cotton pads
Makeup cape
Trash bag
Cotton swabs
Hand mirror
Makeup chair
Eyelid and lash cleanser
Sanex
Towel
PROCEDURE:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Wash hands.
Sanitize work area and assemble all sanitized implements to be
used.
Drape headrest on chair, sit client and adjust headrest and chair
to a comfortable working height. Place sanex around neck of
client and secure makeup cape in place.
Extra light may be required for visibility. Make sure light is not
shinning in client’s eyes.
If necessary have client remove contact lenses. Then remove
eye makeup gently.
Comb or brush client’s lashes to ensure they are clean and free
from debris this also separate lashes.
If lashes are straight curl prior to applying artificial eyelashes.
Consult with client the length and effect that is to be achieve.
(Remember a fuller more natural lash is most attractive)
Work from behind or side of client do not stand directly in front
of client.
Following manufactures directions carefully remove strip lash
from tray.
Skin Care Page 84 of 137
7/01
SC #43 - F# 7
11.
Lay strip upon the upper lid to determine width of lash. Cut the
outer corner of strip to fit clients eyelid. Your may point cut the
tips of the lashes with your scissors to give a feather effect.
12. Using thumb and index finger of both hands bend strip like a
horseshoe shape to contour to the eyelid.
13. To feather the lash and give a more natural look point cut the
tips of lashes with scissors.
14. Apply a thin amount of lash adhesive to the strip of the lash let
it set a few seconds before applying to eyelids
15. Start to apply lash with the shorter part of lash to the inside
corner of eyelid. Place the rest of the strip as close to clients
own lashes as possible. Use a toothpick to press lash on .
(If client is going to wear eyeliner it is recommend liner be
applied before lashes).
Lower lash application
1. Trim strip to fit width of lower eyelid. Apply a thin strip of
adhesive just as you did for upper lashes.
2. Place lash of top of client’s lower lashes. Place shorter lashes
towards center of eye and longer lash toward outer corner.
REMINDER:
Swimming, bathing, showering, cleansing of face can loose artificial
lashes so be CAREFUL.
REMOVING ARTIFICIAL STRIP EYELASHES:
1. Commercial pads are available these pads are saturated with lotion
to aid in the removal of artificial lashes.
2. Or. Soften by placing a face cloth saturated with warm water and
gentle facial cleanser over eyelids
3. Hold pad or cloth over eyes for a few seconds to soften then
starting at outer corner pull gently so not to remove any of the
client own lashes.
4. Use a cotton swab to remove any adhesive that be remaining on
lid.
Skin Care Page 85 of 137
Revised 2/2001
SC #44 – F #8
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
LASH AND BROW TINTING PROCEDURE
MATERIALS NEEDED
Cotton
Cleansing cream
Tissues
Toothpick Swabs
Barbie Towels
Terry Towel
Sanex Strips
Plastic Shower Cap
Warm Soapy Water
Vaseline
Eye Shields
Number One Solution
Number Two Solution
Stain Remover
Clean Spatula
INTRODUCTION
This process is a profit making procedure in a salon and doesn’t take long for the process. It is a
very good service for women who do not want to wear mascara.
INSTRUCTION
1.
Set table set-up and the SMA
2. Cover head rest with a Barbie towel and one across the chest
3. Cover client's head with Sanex strip then plastic shower cap.
4. Place the client in a partially reclining position in the facial chair at approximately a 45degree angle. (This is so the product will not drip in their eyes.)
5. Instruct client to keep both eyes firmly closed during the entire treatment.
6. Wash the brows and lashes thoroughly with a bland soap and water solution.
7. Place a layer of Vaseline on one side of the eye shields and place under the lower lashes with
the Vaseline side against the lower lids.
8. Cover the skin around the brows and lashes with Vaseline. Place Vaseline up to but not on
the hair. (Any part of the brows or lashes that becomes covered with Vaseline will not take
coloring.)
9. Wind a very small piece of cotton around the end of a blunt toothpick. Saturate this
applicator with solution #1 and carefully apply to the hair of the brow and lashes. DO
NOT TOUCH THE SKIN.
10.
Allow solution #1 to dry thoroughly for 3 minutes.
Skin Care Page 86 of 137
Page 2
Lash and Brow Tinting Procedure
11.
Saturate new cotton tipped toothpick with solution #2. Treat the eyebrows first and
then the lashes with solution #2 sparingly so as not to permit any running. (Do not attempt
to tin t the lashes up to the roots.)
12.
After thirty seconds, rinse the brows with cotton saturated with a lukewarm bland soap
solution. After one minute, wash the eyelashes with cotton saturated with lukewarm water.
13.
If deeper shades are desired, repeat the process on the other eyebrow and eyelashes.
IMPORTANT DON’TS
1.
DO NOT permit bottles containing solutions to remain open unnecessarily. ALWAYS recap
tops as soon as possible.
2. DO NOT mix bottle caps.
3. DO NOT MIX solutions or interchange applicators used. NEVER DIP APPLICATORS that
has been used for applying on solution into the other.
4. DO NOT put back the solution once taken from the bottle. It is desirable to pour out a
small amount in a separate container for working purposes. Any attempt to economize will
cause spoilage of the whole unit.
5. DO NOT PERMIT AN ACCIDENTAL STAIN TO REMAIN. Apply the solution carefully only
to the areas where tint is desired. Any stain accidentally produced should immediately be
removed with soap and water and cotton.
6. DO NOT rub the skin.
7. DO NOT attempt to remove obstinate stains by your own experimentations. For this
purpose used the Lash and Brow Tint Remover (solution # 3).
8. DO NOT give an eyebrow arch less than 24 hours before or after the tint.
9. NEVER use an aniline derivative hair tint on the lashes or brows. TO DO SO, COULD
CAUSE BLINDNESS.
NOTE:
If through carelessness of the student or client and the solution gets into the eye,
THOROUGHLY WAS THE EYE IMMEDIATELY WITH WATER.
This product contains a metallic salt. It is for external use only and should be used
with extreme care.
Skin Care Page 87 of 137
REVISED 5/02
SC #45 F#8
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
LASH AND BROW TINTING PROCEDURE
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Cotton
Cleansing Cream
Tooth Pick Swabs
Number One Solution
Stain Remover
Two Towels
Kleenex
Wet Sterilizer
Vaseline
Number Two Solution
Warm Soapy Water
INTRODUCTION:
This process is a profit making procedure in a salon and doesn’t take ling for the process.
It is a service that women cannot do for themselves. It is a very good service for women
who do not want to wear mascara.
INSTRUCTIONS:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
Cover head rest of chair with paper towel. Place towel over chest of client.
Sit client in upright position. Instruct patron to keep both eyes firmly closed
during the entire treatment.
Wash the brows and lashes thoroughly with a bland soap and water solution.
Place a layer of Vaseline on one side of the eye shields and place under the
lower lashes with the Vaseline side against the lower lids.
Cover the skin around the brows and lashes with Vaseline. Place Vaseline up
to but not on the hair. If any part of the brows or lashes become covered with
Vaseline will not take the color.
Wind a very small piece of cotton around the end of a blunt tooth pick.
Saturate this applicator with solution #1 and carefully apply to the hair of the
brow and lashes. DO NOT TOUCH THE SKIN.
Allow solution #1 to dry thoroughly for 3 minutes.
Saturate a new cotton tipped toothpick with solution #2. Treat the eyebrow
first and then the lashes with solution #2 sparingly so as not to permit and
running. Don’t attempt to tint the lashes up to the roots.
After thirty seconds, wash the brows with cotton saturated with a lukewarm
bland soap solution. After on minute, wash the eyelashes with cotton saturated
with lukewarm water.
If deeper shades are desired, repeat the process.
Skin Care Page 88 of 137
REVISED 5/02
SC #45 F#8
IMPORTANT DON’TS:
1. Don’t permit bottles containing solutions to remain open unnecessarily. Always
recap tightly as soon as possible.
2. Don’t mix bottle caps.
3. Don’t mix solutions or interchange applications used. NEVER DIP AN
APPLICATIOR THAT HAS BEEN USED FOR APPLYING ON SOLUTION
INTO THE OTHER.
4. Don’t put back any unused solution once taken from the bottle. It is desirable to
pour out a small amount in a separate container for working purpose. This will
prevent contamination of product.
5. Don’t permit an accidental stain to remain. Apply the solutions carefully only to
the areas where tint is desired. Should a stain accidentally be produced one
should immediately be removed with soap and water and cotton.
6. Don’t rub the skin.
7. Don’t attempt to remove obstinate stains by your own experimentations. For this
purpose use lash and brow tint remover solution #3.
8. Do not give an eyebrow arch less than 24 hours before or after the tint.
9. Never use a hair dye on the lashes or brows; to do this could cause BLINDNESS.
NOTE:
If through carelessness of the student or client, solution should get in the eyes,
thoroughly wash the eye immediately with water.
This product contains a METALLIC salt. It is for external use only and should be
used with EXTREME CARE.
Skin Care Page 89 of 137
SC #46 – F #12
Revised 9/99
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
FUNDAMENTALS AND DEFINITIONS OF ELECTRICITY
INTRODUCTION:
The use of electricity is of paramount importance to those engaged the practice of beauty
culture. It would be impossible for a modern salon to function without it.
It would be just as nonsensical for a doctor attempting the practice of surgery to remain
in ignorance of surgical instruments, as for the cosmetologist to have no knowledge of the
functioning of electrical machines, which help to furnish his/her livelihood.
Electrical equipment is never dangerous in the hands of intelligent, enlightened
technicians. Ignorance is always dangerous regardless of where it exists. Thomas Edison is
given credit for establishing the first electrical light and power company in lower New York City
in 1879.
PRESENTATION:
There are three very important things, which the cosmetologist must know before purchasing
equipment for the beauty salon.
1.
Is the electrical current on which the equipment is to be used an alternating or a
direct current?
2.
If the current is an alternating current, how many times does it alternate per
second?
3.
How many volts (volt is the unit of force) does the line to which the equipment is
to be connected carry?
All these questions must be answered correctly before the purchase is made. Mistakes can
be disastrous and costly.
The exact nature of electricity is not yet completely understood. Some claim the term is a
derivative of the Greek work elektron others claim it to be from the Latin work electrum, both of
which mean ember. It is generally believed that electricity is a form of energy, which when in
motion, produces magnetic, chemical, or heat effects. It may be generated for practical use of
mechanical apparatus, such as dynamos, generators, and magnetos or chemically in the form of
cells and batteries.
Word Program: Fund&Def.-Elect(new3/96)
Skin Care Page 90 of 137
Page 2
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
THE PRODUCTION OF ELECTRICAL CURRENTS MAY
UNDERSTOOD IF YOU HAVE AN IDEA HOW THEY OCCUR.
BE
BETTER
Anything, which occupies space, is called matter. All matter is composed of parts. Parts
broken down are called molecules; molecules broken down are atoms. The atom consists of an
equal number of electrical particles called protons and electrons. The protons are the positive
electrical particles (+). The electrons are the negative electrical particles (-). The electrons
move about constantly within the atom. They also pass from one atom to another. These
circulating electrons are called free electrons. Some substances may contain a greater number of
free electrons than others.
Protons remain stationary within the atoms and are never transferred to other atoms. The
passing of the free electrons from one substance to another constitutes what is known as a flow
of electricity.
ELECTRICITY VOCABULARY AND DEFINITIONS
1.
Electricity is a force of nature present everywhere.
2.
Static electricity is electricity at rest.
3.
Electrical current is the directed movement of electrons; it is electricity in
motion.
4.
Magnetic electricity (dynamic) is electricity produced by mechanical means.
(batteries, dynamos, magnetos, or generators)
5.
Atom is one of the smallest particles of matter. Everything is composed of
atoms.
6.
Protons are positive electrical particles that make up the center mass or nuclei of
an atom. They are stationary and never leave the atom.
7.
Electrons are negative electrical particles that are attracted to the central mass of
protons and are moving around it constantly.
8.
Free electrons are circulating electrons that move from one atom t another
because of the greater attraction supplied by another atom. This passage of
electrons from one substance to another constitutes what is known as the flow of
electricity.
9.
Direct Current (D.C.) is a constant and even-flowing current that flows in one
direction continuously.
10.
Alternating Current (A.C.) is a rapid and interrupted current that flows in one
direction at regular intervals. Alternating currents are transmitted to use in cycles
or waves of current.
Skin Care Page 91 of 137
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
Page 3
11.
Cycle is a complete revolution of electrical energy consisting of a positive and
negative alternations. A 60-cycle current has 60 revolutions or 120 alternations.
Also known as frequencies.
12.
Volt is unit of pressure, a force of power that drives the electron along a
conductor to form a flow of electricity. Volta was the man who discovered this
fact.
13.
Ampere is the unit of current strength, when an electrical force is passed
through resistance and electrical current is produced, it is measured in amperes.
14.
Ohm is the unit of resistance. An electrical current is harmless and useless until
it meets with resistance. The voltage must be high enough to overcome the
resistance in order to produce a reaction. Ohm was the man who discovered
resistance.
15.
Ohm's Law is as follows: "It requires 1 volt of electromotive force to drive 1
ampere of current strength through 1 ohm of resistance in 1 second of time".
[The strength of a current (amperage) equals the pressure (voltage) divided by
the resistance (ohm)]. A= V÷ O
16.
Watt is the measurement of the rate of power consumed. 1 watt represents the
power delivered when the current flows at the rate of 1 ampere with a pressure of
1 volt.
17.
Milliampere is one one-thousandth (1/1000) of an ampere. For corrective
treatments, the ampere is too strong for bodily application; therefore, it is reduced
to the milliamperes.
18.
Kilowatt is equivalent to 1000 watts.
19.
Condenser is a device used for accumulating electricity.
20.
Transformer is a device for changing (either increasing or decreasing) the
voltage of an electric current. It can be used only on an alternating current.
21.
Rectifier is an appliance to change alternating current to direct current.
22.
Converter is an appliance to change direct current to alternating current.
23.
Conductor is any substance that will carry an electrical current freely. Good
conductors are: silver, copper, carbon, black tin, zinc, (practically all metals)
mercury, the human body and watery solutions of acids and salts.
24.
Non-conductor is a substance that will not permit an electrical flow through it,
such as rubber, asbestos, glass, dry wood, cement, and silk.
25.
Insulation is a covering for electrical wires made of some form of nonconducting material (asbestos, silk, or rubber).
Skin Care Page 92 of 137
Page 4
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
26.
Open Circuit occurs when a break is made in the flow of a current. Interrupted
current or disconnected current.
27.
Short Circuit occurs when a current is diverted from its regular path by faulty
connections (frayed wires, metal contract).
28.
Close Circuit occurs when connection is made to allow the uninterrupted flow of
electricity.
29.
Ground Circuit is one in which one wire is used to deliver current and the other
wire carries the current either back to or into the ground, thus relieving the
electrical wiring of its overload.
30.
Complete Circuit is the entire path traveled by the current from its generating
source through various conductors and back to its original source, uninterrupted
and in use.
31.
Fuse is a device for controlling the current supply. A fuse is made of materials
that melt quickly. When it overheats, it melts, and the connection it makes is
destroyed; thus the current is cut off, preventing over-heating the electrical wire,
which could cause a fire.
32.
Circuit Breaker is a type of switch that is operated by an electromagnet. When
the electrical line becomes overcharged and the current rises too high for safety,
the electromagnet operates the switch and opens the circuit, thus breaking contact
with the power line. Its purpose is the same as that of the fuse.
33.
Modality modes of producing currents or light rays which are used in the
practice of beauty culture.
34.
Electrotherapy is the science of treating with electric currents
35.
Meter is a measuring device, registering number of units of electrical
measurement used: Volt-meters, ampere-meter, ohm-meter, power meter (watts).
36.
Polarity is the effects of the current at the poles.
Skin Care Page 93 of 137
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
Page 5
INFORMATION SHEET
ELECTROTHERAPY
I.
GALVANIC MODALITY
A. Introduction
Galvanic is a direct current with low volt and high amp. It is bi-polar, flowing
from positive to negative and is known as a chemical current, because of its
chemical reaction. It has definite polarity.
1.
Use:
a.
For phoresis (ionization--iontophoresis) forcing a liquid into
unbroken skin
1).
Anaphoresis
a)
May be performed to push into the skin
b)
Attached to negative pole using an alkaline solution
2)
Cataphoresis
a)
Attached to positive pole to pull a positively charged
substance (an acid pH astringent solution) into the
skin
2.
Polarity Test
a.
Salt water test
1)
Negative pole = more bubbles
b.
Litmus paper
1)
Positive pole changes blue to red
c.
Meter Test
1)
Needle flows to positive side
3.
Application
a.
Carbon or metal electrode on face, client lies on a canvas pad or
holds metal or carbon electrodes
b.
Metal brush on scalp and client holds long carbon electrode for
scalp treatments
4.
PRECAUTIONS: Specific to Galvanic current
a.
Never use for manipulation (never with wrist electrode)
b.
Never use over creams
c.
Five minute application, never lose contact.
5.
Actions of Poles of Galvanic Current
a.
Positive Pole (Anode)
b. Negative Pole (Cathode)
1) Has acid reaction
1) Has alkaline reaction
2) Contract pores and glands
2) Relaxes pores and glands
3) Make tissue firmer
3) Softens tissues
4) Is a vaso-constrictor
4) Is a vaso-dilator
5) Attracts oxygen
5) Attracts hydrogen
6) Performs cataphoresis
6) Performs anaphoresis
Skin Care Page 94 of 137
Page 6
II.
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
HIGH FREQUENCY
A. Introduction
The Telsa high frequency modality used by cosmetologist has a medium
voltage and amperage. It oscillates 10,000 or more times per second and is
considered thermal due to its heat producing qualities.
1.
Electrodes used
a.
Vacuum glass electrodes (air removed) or
b.
Metal electrode
2.
Effects of Tesla
a.
Stimulates circulation
b.
Relieves congestion
c.
Increases glandular activity
d.
Aids elimination and absorption
e.
Is germicidal (emission of ozone and nitrous oxide)
f.
Performs fulguration (removal of wart and moles) by medical field only
g.
Increases metabolism
h.
Effect varies with the type of application used
1.
Soothing effect
a)
Produced by direct contact of electrode on skin
2.
Stimulating effect
a)
Produced when given over towel, gauze or clothing
b)
By lifting electrode
3.
Benefits
a.
Controls dandruff
b.
Controls oily or dry skin
c.
Improves acne
4.
Methods of Applications
a.
Direct application (for oily skin or scalp)
1)
Scalp Treatments
a)
Give manipulations before using direct method
b)
Use glass rake
2)
Facial treatment
a)
Use round facial electrode
b)
Maximum 5 minutes application
b.
Indirect application (for dry skin and scalp)
1)
Type of electrode used
a)
Glass electrode
b)
Client holds electrode while technician gives massage
(dry condition)
c.
Auto-condensation (general electrification)
1)
Client holds glass electrode without contact from technician
a)
Very soothing
5.
PRECAUTIONS: Specific to High Frequency
a.
Never use Tesla over inflammable substances
b.
Never use Tesla too strong and not over 5 minutes
c.
Always start current slowly and turn up to client's tolerance
d.
No fulguration (sparking)
1)
The strength of current is determined by length of spark
Skin Care Page 95 of 137
Fundamentals and Definitions of Electricity (Con't)
e.
f.
Page 7
2)
Current is too strong if spark is greater than 1/4 inch
Place electrode in handle before connecting to wall socket
1)
Turn screw to adjust current
Never when contraindicative to client's health
Skin Care Page 96 of 137
SC #47 - F#13
Revised 11/2000
NAME: __________________________
21 Fill-ins Questions
DATE: __________________________
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
OPEN BOOK ASSIGNMENT
ELECTRICITY
INSTRUCTIONS:
With the aid of your test book, fill-in the blank spaces with the word or words that
corresponds or describes the following definitions.
1. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical pressure.
2. _____________________________________ Is a constant and even-flowing current, traveling in one direction.
3. _____________________________________ Is an alternating and interrupted current capable of producing a
mechanical reaction without a chemical effect.
4. _____________________________________ Is characterized by a high rate of vibration.
5. _____________________________________ May be used instead of hot towels, to cleans and steam the face.
6. _____________________________________ Is an apparatus used to convert a direct current into an alternating current.
7. _____________________________________ Serves as conductors and applicators of electricity to certain areas of the
body.
8. _____________________________________ Is a substance, which readily transmits an electric current.
9. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical resistance.
10. _____________________________________ Is the pole that is responsible for the following: Acid reaction, soothes
nerves, decreases blood supply, and hardens tissues.
11. _____________________________________ Is a safety device, which prevents the overheating of electrical wires.
12. _____________________________________ Is a stream of electrons moving along a conductor.
13. _____________________________________ Is a unit of electrical strength.
14. _____________________________________ Is the entire path traveled by the current from its generating source
through various conductors and back to its original source.
15. _____________________________________ Is the use of the positive pole to introduce a positive charged substance
into the skin.
16. _____________________________________ Is a constant and direct current generated by a direct current.
17. _____________________________________ Selects the amount of current used.
18. _____________________________________ Is a rapid and interrupted current, flowing first in one direction and then
in the opposite direction.
Skin Care Page 97 of 137
19. _____________________________________ Chooses the type of current required.
20. _____________________________________ Is the pole that is responsible for the following: Alkaline reaction,
irritates nerves, increases blood supply, and softens tissues.
21. _____________________________________ Chemical solutions being forced into the unbroken skin by a means of
galvanic current.
-2-
Skin Care Page 98 of 137
Revised 10/94
SC #48- F 14
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
GENERAL SAFETY PRECAUTIONS TO BE FOLLOWED
ON ALL ELECTRICAL OPERATIONS
1. Disinfect all electrodes properly.
2. Do not operate any electrical equipment without first reading the manufacturers
instructions and check with instructor.
3. Do not go out of the room and leave a client attached to any electrical appliance or
exposed to any lamp.
4. Do not allow client to come in direct contact with any metal (radiators, gas, or water
pipes) when using electrical current.
5. Do not handle any electrical equipment with wet hands.
6. NEVER turn the current so high as to cause discomfort.
7. Stop any electrical treatment that causes any degree of pain.
8. NEVER use high frequency currents over an oil or tonic containing combustibles
(alcohol) because it may cause sparking.
9. ALWAYS cover the client's eyes with cotton pads when using dermal lights.
10. NEVER use heat rays where there is an accumulation of pus (inflammation).
11. Carefully observe the correct timing and distance of lamp when using dermal lights.
12. Do not overload electrical circuits.
13. Use a fuse of the right capacity.
14. Do not apply any electric modality on any client with a cardiac condition or metal
implants.
15. Disconnect all electrical appliances when you are finished using them, store cords up and
out of the way.
16. To disconnect the cord, grasp the end in the wall socket and pull. NEVER unplug the
cord by pulling on the cord, you may cause an electrical shock to yourself or the client.
Skin Care Page 99 of 137
Revised 10/94
SC #48- F 14
Page 2
17. Examine cords regularly to ensure safe use of machinery. Repair and replace as
needed.
18. Electrical equipment shall not be used to stimulate so as to contract, or for the purpose
of contracting the muscles of the body or face.
19. Do not allow the client to have a manicure or pedicure while having an electrical
treatment with any type of current. It is permissible while using light rays.
20. Advance and decrease current slowly
21. Do no allow yourself or your client to come in contact with metal when using high
frequency, a stinging sensation would be felt.
22. ALWAYS use goggles, both client and technician, when using ultra violet rays.
Skin Care Page 100 of 137
SC #49 - F15
Revised 8/2000
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
TYPES OF ELECTRICAL FACIALS
MODALITIES
TESLA HIGH
FREQUENCY
GALVANIC
FARADIC
CURRENT
CLASSIFICATION
Thermal
Chemical
Mechanical
PRODUCED
BY
AMPERAGE
And
VOLTAGE
A.C.
Medium Volt
Medium Amp
ELECTRODES
Glass or Metal
EFFECTS
Promotes growth of hair.
Germicidal. Stimulates
sebaceous, sudoriferous and
lymph glands
POSITIVE
NEGATIVE
Closes pores,
Decreases
blood & sweat
oils,
Germicidal,
Hardens
tissues,
Soothes
Open pores,
Increases
blood, Lymph,
Sweat & Oil
glands,
Softens
tissues,
Irritating
D.C.
Low Voltage
High Amperage
Bi-polar
constant
Definite Polarity
Carbon Ball
Carbon Rod
Canvas Pad
A.C.
High Voltage,
Low Amperage,
Non-determined
polarity
Carbon Rod
Wrist Electrode
Canvas Pad
Stimulation, Muscle toning, Reenergizing the body, Increases
blood supply and Glandular
activity
Carbon rod
Wrist Electrode
Canvas Pad
Similar to Faradic,
Deeper penetration,
Smoother current,
More soothing
ELECTRODES
SINUSODIAL
Mechanical
A.C.
Low Voltage,
Low Amperage,
Non-determined
polarity
DERMAL
LIGHTS
CURRENT
CLASSIFICATION
PRODUCED
BY
TIME &
DISTANCE
WHITE LIGHTS
Has some effects
of each type,
mostly heat.
Ray
10 – 12 Minutes
15 inches
BLUE LIGHTS
Chemical astringent
Ray
3 – 5 minutes
10 – 12 inches
Special White
bulb, Tungsted
filament
EFFECTS
Relieves pain & Produces heat
Blue Bulb
Antiseptic effects,
Soothing effect on nerves
Violet Bulb
Hot Quartz
Chemical & Germicidal,
Stimulates activity and growth of
body cells. (Too much ultra
violet ray can destroy cell
tissues)
ULTRA VIOLET
Chemical Germicidal
Ray
2 – 3 minutes
increasing to
7 – 8 minutes
30 – 36 inches
INFRARED
LIGHTS
Heat Producing
Ray
5 minutes
24 – 30 inches
Special Infra
Bulb
RED LIGHTS
Heat Producing
Ray
5 minutes
24 – 30 inches
Special Red Bulb
Increases metabolism,
Relieves pain,
Increases oxidation in tissues
Increases glandular activity,
Increases flow of blood,
Relaxes derma tissue
Skin Care Page 101 of 137
SC #50- F#16
Revised 11-2000
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
INFORMATION SHEET
HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT
INTRODUCTION:
There are three types of high frequency current: D'Arsonval, Oudin (oo'din) and Tesla
currents, named after their respective discoverers. These currents are characterized by a high
rate of vibration, ranging from 10,000 or more cycles per second. The one of most interest to the
cosmetologist is the Tesla current, commonly, called violet ray. The other two types are used in
the practice of medicine.
PRESENTATION:
The Tesla current is of medium voltage and medium amperage. It can be connected to
either the direct or alternating current. The action of the current is thermal, or heat producing.
There are no muscular contractions, because of the rapid vibrations of the current. The effects of
the Tesla high frequency current are either stimulating or soothing, depending on the method of
application. There is only one treatment terminal used with Tesla high frequency. The circuit is
completed through the client and ground. The treatment time is from 5 - 10 minutes. The high
frequency current should not be used over inflammable tonics or lotions (high alcohol content).
Danger of combustion.
THREE METHODS OF USING TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT:
1.
Direct surface application:
The cosmetologist holds the electrode (glass rake or facial bulb) and applies it
over the client's skin.
2.
Indirect application:
The client holds the metal or glass cylinder electrode in his/her hand, while
the cosmetologist uses his/her fingers to massage the surface being treated.
This draws the high frequency current through the skin and tissues to the
cosmetologist's fingertips. (Current turned off before removing the electrode
from the client's hand.)
3.
General electrification:
The client holds the metal or glass electrode in his/her hand (without the
technician touching the client), charging the entire body with electrical
energy. This produces sedative, calming, or soothing effects.
AUTO CONDENSATION:
A general body application employed by the medical profession only.
File Name: SC #50 - F #16 High Frequency Info Sheet
Skin Care Page 102 of 137
Page 2
High Frequency Current (Con't)
FULGURATION:
The removal of growths such as warts and moles by means of sparks of high frequency current.
The cosmetologist should not attempt this type of treatment, as it does not come under the province of
beauty culture service.
BENEFITS OF TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY:
1.
Stimulates circulation of the blood.
2.
Relieves congestion - aids in elimination and absorption.
3.
Increases glandular activity.
4.
Increases metabolism.
5.
Germicidal (releases ozone and nitrous oxide).
USES OF TESLA HIGH FREQUENCY:
1.
Falling hair
2.
Dandruff
3.
Excessively oily or dry skin and scalp
4.
Black and blue spots
5.
Acne
6.
Eczema
7.
Psoriasis
8.
Baldness
9.
Tight scalp
CHECK-UP
1.
The Tesla current is commonly called:
a.
b.
2.
low frequency current
infrared ray
Galvanic current
Faradic current
c.
d.
sinusoidal current
high frequency current
A current having 10,000 or more cycles per second is called:
a.
b.
4.
c.
d.
A glass electrode giving off sparks operates on:
a.
b.
3.
D'Arsonval Current
violet ray
a low frequency current
a high frequency current
c.
d.
a direct current
an alternating current
For a stimulating effect, the high frequency electrode is:
a.
b.
slightly lifted from the skin
kept in close contact with the skin
c.
d.
held by client
turned very low
Skin Care Page 103 of 137
Revised 7/98
SC #51 – F#17
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PROCEDURE SHEET
HOW TO GIVE A HIGH FREQUENCY FACIAL
(Direct Method - Oily Skin)
(Indirect Method - Dry Skin)
INTRODUCTION
High Frequency Facial is a type of facial, given with an electrical apparatus called a
High Frequency Unit. It is called High Frequency because the current alternates very
rapidly. This current alternates so rapidly that it does not stimulate motor or sensory
nerves. It has a frequency of more than 10,000 cycles per second. There are two
methods of applying High Frequency, direct and indirect. Direct High Frequency is
an external application, which dries refines and heals the skin. It produces a
germicidal effect, through ozone formation at the skin's surface via the glass electrode
applied. The Indirect High Frequency passes through the surface of the body and
produces a stimulating, anti-congestive effect, with no chemical formation on the
skin's surface as in the direct method of application. High Frequency has an irritating
noise, produced during the application, and so every attempt should be made to put
the client at ease, prior to the application so that she can gain maximum benefit. The
current is sometimes referred to as "violet ray", not to be confused with ultra violet.
The High Frequency is called this because of the violet hue which is emitted when
the unit is turned on.
MATERIALS NEEDED
paper towels (2)
tape
sanitary maintenance area
sanek
body drape
head drape
labeled disposal bag
tissue
High Frequency Unit
glass bulb electrode
massage cream
cleansing cream
terry towel (2)
safety pins (2)
cotton
astringent
EQUIPMENT CHECK
a.
Without plugging in, insert glass electrodes firmly and carefully into unit
b.
Turn all dials to "0" especially Rheostat, if no "0", turn to off position.
c.
Check to see that the machine is in safe and working order, and that all apparatus
are in safe and working condition.
d.
Chairs should be checked for safety and operation. Be aware of metal.
Skin Care Page 104 of 137
Page 2
How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)
PROCEDURE - DIRECT METHOD
(Oily Skin)
SANITIZE TECHNICIANS HANDS, AND RE-SANITIZE AS NECESSARY.
a.
Drape Client
b.
Sanitize hands again
c.
Recline Client
d.
Cleanse the Skin
PREPARATION FOR HIGH FREQUENCY DIRECT METHOD (Oily skin)
a.
Apply massage cream - sufficient massage cream should be spread over areas to
be massaged.
b.
Manipulations must be given on skin of face, neck, shoulder, and upper chest
area.
c.
Using the cream gives a more soothing, relaxing effect during the treatment.
d.
This method must be used for STATE BOARD.
e.
Another method is to apply talcum powder to the face. Shake powder onto a
piece of cotton, and apply to face. This permits a smooth passage of electrodes
over the contours, and to absorb the natural secretions formed during treatment.
Talc gives a more superficial but stimulating action.
PREPARE HIGH FREQUENCY UNIT
a.
Be sure Unit is unplugged.
b.
Turn knobs to off position.
c.
Place electrode in unit; slowly and carefully.
d.
Plug unit in and turn to the units lowest current. A noise will occur and it will
start emitting a violet cast from the electrode.
APPLY HIGH FREQUENCY CURRENT DIRECTLY TO THE AREAS TO BE
TREATED, DO NOT spark at all during the treatment.
a.
To keep from sparking place finger quickly on the glass electrode before applying
to face.
b.
Then apply to the face and remove finger.
c.
Move electrode around on the area, to be treated.
d.
Apply the treatment for approximately 5 minutes or less.
e.
Do not break contact during the treatment, a spark will occur.
f.
To remove the bulb from the face, place finger on bulb and lift up.
Skin Care Page 105 of 137
How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)
Page 3
REMOVE MASSAGE CREAM WITH TISSUES OR WET TOWELS.
TIGHTEN PORES
a.
Use cold towels or astringent to close pores.
b.
Use caution when applying astringent near eyes.
CLEAN UP
a.
All materials and supplies should be put away.
b.
Work area should be wiped clean.
PRECAUTIONS - CONTRA-INDICATIVE TO HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENT
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
High strung clients of a nervous disposition.
Epileptics
Asthmatics
Extremely Vascular skin conditions
Skin infections, Adolescent acne may be treated directly with medical approval.
Clients undergoing treatment for defective circulation, edema (swelling), high
blood pressure, etc.
Pregnancy
Pace maker
Metal implants
Do not allow client to come in contact with metal
Skin Care Page 106 of 137
Page 4
How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)
PROCEDURE - INDIRECT METHOD
(Dry Skin)
SANITIZE TECHNICIANS HANDS, AND RE-SANITIZE AS NECESSARY
a.
Drape Client
b.
Sanitize hands again
c.
Recline Client
d.
Cleanse the Skin
PREPARATION FOR HIGH FREQUENCY INDIRECT METHOD (Dry skin)
a.
Be sure Unit is unplugged.
b.
Turn knobs to off position.
c.
Place electrode in unit; slowly and carefully. Then plug in unit.
d.
Have client hold generator and touch the electrode.
e.
Apply massage cream - sufficient massage cream should be spread over areas to
be massaged.
f.
Manipulations will be given on skin of face, neck, shoulder, and upper chest area
while client holds the High Frequency unit.
g.
Place one hand on the client and turn to the units lowest current. Then turn the
current on slowly and a noise will occur. It will start emitting a violet cast from
the electrode.
h.
Give a complete massage.
i.
Turn unit off
REMOVE MASSAGE CREAM WITH TISSUES OR WET TOWELS.
TIGHTEN PORES
a.
Use cold towels or astringent to close pores.
b.
Use caution when applying astringent near eyes.
CLEAN UP
a.
All materials and supplies should be put away.
b.
Work area should be wiped clean.
Skin Care Page 107 of 137
How to Give a High Frequency Facial (Con't)
Page 5
CONTRA-INDICATION TO HIGH FREQUENCY TREATMENT
1.
High strung clients of a nervous disposition.
2.
Epileptics
3.
Asthmatics
4.
Extremely Vascular skin conditions
5.
Skin infections, Adolescent acne may be treated directly with medical approval.
6.
Clients undergoing treatment for defective circulation, edema (swelling), high
blood pressure, etc.
7.
Pregnancy
8.
Pace maker
9.
Metal implants
Skin Care Page 108 of 137
Revised 3/00
SC #52 -F #18
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
WOOD LAMP
INFORMATION SHEET
The wood lamp is an ultra violet light with a glass filter to stop the radiation given off the
black light.
The guidelines list below should be followed when using the wood lamp:
1.
THOROUGLY cleans the skin
2.
Completely darken the room
a. Some wood lamps come with a shield that goes over lamp and client
face to darken the area to be examined.
3.
Turn on lamp allow 1 minute for it to start emitting light.
4.
Place it 8” from skin to observe the colors the skin manifest.
COLORS AND INDICATIONS
Blush white
White spots
Dark purple
Light purple
Orange coral
Brown spots
normal-healthy
thick horny layer (dead skin
cells)
thin tender dehydrated
dry skin
comedone-oily seborrhea
accumulated pigment change
from sunlight damage.
Skin Care Page 109 of 137
Revised 1/2001
CERRITOS COLLEGE
SC #53- F#19
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
PROCEDURE SHEET
HOW TO GIVE A STANDARD ELECTRICAL FACIAL
(Using Galvanic Modality)
MATERIALS NEEDED:
Same as for a plain facial with the addition of the galvanic modality and
its electrodes.
INTRODUCTION:
The electrical facial may be varied to suit the client's need. Galvanic
current produces a chemical effect. The effects of the currents upon
the body must be clearly understood before attempting to give an
electrical facial.
PROCEDURE:
1.
2.
Assemble materials and drape client.
Prepare electrodes for use with the Galvanic current.
5.
6.
a. Wrap both electrodes with cotton moistened with water.
b. Client lies on canvas pad or holds a metal electrode; the
cosmetologist uses a carbon ball or metal electrode as the active
electrode.
Apply cleansing cream and remove thoroughly.
Apply negative Galvanic - 5 to 7 minutes.
a. Roll carbon ball electrode (wrapped with cotton moisten with
water) lightly over the face for 5 to 7 minutes.
b. Concentrate on comedome areas.
c. Alkaline solution may replace water for disencrustation.
Steam should be applied if extractions are to be done.
Apply (massage) cream.
7.
8.
9.
Give massage
Remove massage cream.
OPTIONAL: Mask may be used.
3.
4.
Skin Care Page 110 of 137
How to Give a Standard Electrical Facial (Galvanic) (Con't)
Page 2
10.
Use positive Galvanic with cotton moistened with an astringent – two
11.
(2) to four (4) minutes. Concentrate on large pore areas.
Apply moisturizer prior to make-up application.
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
1.
2.
Have instructor check before you turn current on.
Do not break contact with client while current is turned on.
3.
Advance and decrease current slowly, so you do not cause client
discomfort.
Never turn current so high as to be painful to client or
cosmetologist. Strength of one milliampere recommended.
Do not use the negative Galvanic current over skin having broken
capillaries or a pustular acne condition.
Client and cosmetologist remove watch and large rings.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Electrical modalities should never be used on client who has health
problems that are contraindicative such as: pace maker, heart
problems, high blood pressure, epilepsy, pregnancy, fitted with an
IUD, metal implants, or other health problems should be discussed.
Clinical profile must be done prior to service.
File Name: SC #53 - F #19 How to Give Galvanic Facial
Skin Care Page 111 of 137
SC #54 -F # 20
Revised 3/00
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
FOR USE OF LIGHT THERAPY
1.
Never use heat rays over accumulation of pus (inflammation)
2.
Always cover client’s eyes with moistened cotton eye pads.
3.
Careful to observe timing and distance.
4.
Do not handle electrical equipment with wet hands.
5.
Do not leave the room when client is exposed to a lamp or connected to
any electrical appliance.
6.
Disconnect and store cord of all electrical appliances when finished using
them.
7.
Never unplug by pulling the cord. Grasp the end in the wall socket.
REMEMBER:
COLOR
INCHES
MINUTES
RED
24” – 30”
5
BLUE
10” – 12”
3–5
15”
10 - 12
WHITE
Skin Care Page 112 of 137
SC #55- F#21
Revised 1/2006
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
LIGHT THERAPY INFORMATION SHEET
Light therapy is a treatment by means of light rays. In the beauty industry, we are
concerned with only three of many light rays.
One is a heat producing ray such as the infrared rays another is the ultra-violet rays,
which give a chemical and germicidal reaction visible light, all that is contained within the
spectrum of the sun.
Natural sunshine is composed of 35% visible light, 5% is ultraviolet rays and, 60% is
infrared rays. Invisible rays make up 65% of natural sunlight.
Infrared produce no light, only a red glow when active. The visible rays or dermal lights
as you will hear reference to are reproduced by carbon or tungsten filament in clear glass
bulbs. They produce white, red or blue light.
The client’s eyes should always be protected with cotton eye pads moistened with eye
protection solution during light ray treatments. If using ultra-violet rays, safety
goggles should be worn by both client and technician.
PROCEDURE DRY SKIN
The red dermal light (infrared is 60% of the natural sunlight), recommended for Dry skin.
Its effect is soothing, relaxes, increases circulation and metabolism, and also helps in
absorption.
NEVER! USE OVER PUSTULES OR INFLAMATION.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Cleanse
Prepare gauze/cheese cloth (cut slits for eyes, nose, and mouth).
Prepare gauze/cheese cloth with oil and apply.
Apply moisten eye pads.
Apply RED dermal light approximately 24”-30” away from face and for 3 to
5 minutes.
6.
Break the heat every 30 – 40 seconds.
7.
Remove and properly dispose of mask. Apply massage cream or more oil.
8.
Give massage.
9.
Remove cream or oil.
10.
Apply astringent or cold towel.
11.
Clean up and sanitize area.
*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.
Skin Care Page 113 of 137
Light Therapy Procedure
page 2
PROCEDURE FOR OILY SKIN
The blue dermal light is 12% of the spectrum, recommend for Oily skin. Its effects are
germicidal, used for mild skin eruptions.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
Cleanse
Steam
Extract (wear gloves), moistened cotton or gauze on finger pads.
Apply antiseptic (sponge technique).
Apply moistened eye pads.
Apply blue dermal light on bare skin approximately 10” – 12” away from
face for 3 –5 minutes. Break the heat with your hand.
7.
Apply cream.
8.
Give massage.
9.
Remove cream, and then apply astringent or cold towel.
10.
Clean up and sanitize area.
*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.
PROCEDURE FOR NORAL SKIN
The white dermal light is 12% of the spectrum, recommend for Normal skin. Its effects
are relaxation, relives pain, slightly germicidal.
1.
2.
3.
Cleanse
Apply moistened eye pads.
Apply white dermal light approximately 15” form skin for 10 – 12 minutes.
Break heat with hand.
4.
Apply cream and massage.
5.
Remove cream, apply astringent or cold towel.
6.
Clean up and sanitize area.
*REMEMBER to move hand back and forth to break up rays.
Skin Care Page 114 of 137
SC #56 - F#22
Re
Cerritos College
Technology Division
Cosmetology Department
SKIN ANALYSIS
Preliminary Steps
1.
2.
Place a towel over the hair to protect it.
Apply eye pads dampened with freshener or water.
What to look for:
1.
Look at each part of her face and neck separately, eyes, forehead,
check, nose, chin, and throat. There may be differences in each area
that will give a clue to specific requirements of her skin.
2.
Study the overall texture of the skin. Are the pores large or small?
Are they different in some areas from others? Are there any blackheads
or other types of clogged pores?
3.
Check for oily and/or dry areas on the face. Is the “T” zone (across the
forehead, down the nose to the chin) different from the cheek area?
4.
Search carefully for broken capillaries and scaly dead skin cells.
5.
Determine the elasticity and strength of the skin in various areas by
gently lifting the tissue between thumb and middle finger and releasing it.
Does the skin spring back to its original form immediately or does it seem
to slide slowly back into place?
6.
Ask pertinent questions of your client during your examination of her/his
skin. “Does your makeup last all day? (if a female). Do you have
occasional blemishes? How does your face feel in the morning? in midafternoon? in the evening?
Analysis Follow-up
1.
Now is the time to briefly discuss with your client what you have
noted about his/her skin as well as the types of products and professional
services he/she will need to make her skin constantly healthy and glowing
in appearance.
2.
Then, remind the client that there are four fundamentals to skin care that
pertains to all skin types. They are:
Cleanliness – Lubrication – Protection – Stimulation
Page 1 of 6
Skin Care Page 115 of 137
SC #56 - F#22
Re
CHARACTERISTICS OF SKIN TYPES
SKIN CHART
OILY SKIN:
Appearance…………………………..Thick, hard, shiny, slightly
toneless
Pore Size……………………………...Enlarge, wide, open
Elasticity…………………………… Can be restored if pores are
cleansed of debris
Feel……………………………………Oily, moist
Sebaceous……………………………..Overactive
Visible Texture………………………..Coarse
NORMAL SKIN:
Appearance……………………………..Velvety, matte-like; good
pigmentation, healthy
Pore Size………………………………...Small
Elasticity……………………………… Very good
Feel…………………………………… Very good, supple, cushiony
Sebaceous……………………………….Neither too active nor too slow
Visible Texture…………………………Soft to touch, smooth to eye
DRY SKIN:
Appearance…………………………….Smooth, fine grained, often
flaked, wrinkled or parched
Pore Size……………………………… Very fine with no visible open
pores
Elasticity………………………………. Lacking
Feel……………………………………. Tight, tend to roughen in harsh
weather
Sebaceous Gland Activity…………… Insufficient
Visible Texture…………………………Coarse
Page 2 of 6
Skin Care Page 116 of 137
SC #56 - F#22
Re
MATURING SKIN:
Appearance…………………………..Lined, wrinkled, sallow with lack of
pigmentation
Pore size……………………………..Usually fine
Elasticity…………………………….Lacking or relaxed
Feel…………………………………..Somewhat dry
Sebaceous……………………………Deficient
Visible Texture……………………….Relaxed muscle tone, limp
COMBINATIONS SKIN:
Appearance…………………………..Shiny in “T” zone, normal in
other areas
Pore size…………………………… Larger and prone to black heads in
“T” zone, small and fine in other areas
Elasticity……………………………Good to lacking, depending on area
Feel…………………………………Depending on area, tight or moist
Sebaceous Gland Activity………… Increased in “T” zone, reduced on
outer areas
Visible Texture…………………….Combination, smooth in “T” zone
coarse in cheek area
DEEP PORE CLEANSING
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Clean face with cleanser
Put client under Magic Mist V
After approximately seven minutes, you may proceed to vacuum while
the Magic Mist is on
Using the Galvodrem, proceed to disencrustation
Squeeze out any impurities
Brush with Honey & Almond scrub. Remove
Massage following massage movements
Pass High Frequency over massage cream. Remove
Apply mask according to the type of skin
Spray face with astringent
Moisturize
Page 3 of 6
Skin Care Page 117 of 137
SC #56 - F#22
Re
MOISTURIZING TREATMENT
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
10.
11.
Cleanse skin with cleaner
Put client under Magic Mist
While Magic Mist is on, give the lent a massage with a rich moisturizing
creme such as our Crème Biogenique
Tissue any excess
Use galvoderm unit for penetration (#2) using one of the following or in
combination:
a)
Vitamin E
b)
Crème #24
c)
Neck & Wrinkle Crème
d)
Bio Wrinkle Crème
e)
Biogenique Crème
Proceed with your massage movement. Tissue excess
Pass High Frequency over massage crème
Remove crème and spray with freshener
Apply masque according to skin type. Remove
Spray with astringent
Moisturize
MINI FACIAL
Personality, Individuality, and Salesmanship…..these are the keys to success in the field
of aesthetics.
The difference between a skin specialty and an aesthetician lies in the realization that
anyone could learn about the skin, but not everyone could become an expert. Time and
experience are essential.
Without having the presumption to be first, although we have been, we have found that it
is very important for the beauty salon operator, shop owner to start with very simple
methods which prove to be both profitable and prestige builders. Therefore, it is our
pleasure to introduce to you the following Mimi Facial:
TECHNIQUE
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.
Cleanse the skin with a mild based product
Apply a scrub such as a Honey & Almond Scrub
Brush onto face
Remove scrub
Proceed to vacuum
Apply mask (remove after 10 minutes)
Spray with a freshener
Moisturize
Face is now ready for make-up consultation
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Re
ACNE TREATMENT
There are many types of acne juvenile, but these are the most common:
a.
Indurata – deep set pimples with hard tubercles occurring chiefly
on the neck and back
b.
Pustulosa – acne in which the pustular lesions predominate
c.
Acne Vulgaris – the most common acne in teenagers. Acne
vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory disease of the sebaceous
glands, occurring most frequently on the face, back and chest
CAUSES
A chemical change in the body attached to the period of time from adolescence to
adulthood is the cause of acne. This is the period of time when the organisms of the body
are activated, primarily the endocrine system, the ovaries, the sebaceous glands, and the
sudoriferous glands. Forms of pimples begin to appear. These lesions occur at a time
when the person wants to be more attractive, when he/she is becoming aware of his/her
body. He/she tries to remedy the situation by squeezing which causes scars under the skin
and permanent surface marks.He/she indulges in product that are not indicated for his/her
skin type. Instead of helping this condition, he/she aggravates it.
WHAT AN ESTHETICIAN CAN DO
If at all possible, get the mother out of the room. Try to take the mother aside and explain
that you need to establish and one-to-one communication with the teenager. This is the
consultation period. The purpose of the consultation period is to try to find out the
teenagers habits, how much sleep he/she gets, how much exercise, what he/she eats,
what, if any emotional problems he/she may have. Then it is best to explain the following
points:
First-explain to the teenager that she or he is going through a temporary phase and that
most other people have had to go through it, too. Explain that the important thing is to
look as attractive as possible while this phase lasts-and above all, to avoid injuring the
skin and causing scars.
Second-explain that acne has nothing to do with sex. Boys, especially, hear a lot of silly
unscientific talk about acne being connected with sex and masturbation. Their feelings of
insecurity and guilt about sex can greatly increase the emotional tension that contributes
to acne.
Third- explain that the bet way to care for acne is to keep the pores open and clean. To
stop squeezing pimples because the results are hidden scars, under the skin, that makes it
lumpy and irregular, even if no surface scars result.
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Re
TREATMENT
1.
Cleanse the face with a milk base product, changing cotton pads when
moving from one side of the face to the other
2.
Put client under Magic Mist for approximately 20 minutes. The act of
oxygen will begin to open the pores and disinfect them which means it
helps to eliminate toxins from the skin surface, increase the supply of
nourishment to the skin cells, softens oil deposits, thus representing and
indispensable means of thoroughly cleaning the skin
3.
After the third visit, you may proceed with the Galvoderm for
disencrustation, bringing out all the impurities. It is elementary that in any
electrical current the positive ions are attracted to the negative ions.
Through the use of the galvanic current we can use a gentle deep cleansing
of the pores
4.
Tissue the infection. Be sure to change tissues frequently. Keep handy a
cotton ball, soaked in blemish lotion for the purpose of disinfecting the
area just cleaned
5.
Return client to Magic Mist V for five minutes longer. The purpose of this
is to safeguard against the internal spread of infection
6.
Apply a mask with drying agent primarily containing camphor, zinc,
oxide, etc.
7.
High Frequency – to close pores and produce a high germicidal effect
8.
Spray the face with special astringent
9.
Moisturize with water based lotion-apply sparingly!
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REVISED 5/08
CERRITOS COLLEGE
TECHNOLOGY DIVISION
COSMETOLOGY DEPARTMENT
General Diseases and Related terms of the Skin
1 Skin diseases:
2 Acute disease:
3 Chronic disease:
4 Infectious disease:
5 Contagious disease:
6 Congential disease:
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7 Occupational disease:
8 Parasitic disease
9 Seasonal diseases:
10 Systemic disease:
11 Verneral disease:
12 Epidemic:
13 Allergy:
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REVISED 5/08
14 Lesion:
15 Primary:
16 Secondary lesion:
17 Subjective sympton:
18 Objective symptom:
Primary and Secondary Lesions
Primary Lesions
1 Macule:
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2 Papule:
3 Wheal:
4 Tubercle:
5 Tumor:
6 Vesicle:
7 Bulla:
8 Pustule:
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REVISED 5/08
9 Cyst:
Primary and Secondary Lesions
Secondary Lesions
1 Scale:
2 Crust:
3 Encoriation:
4 Fissure:
5 Ulcer:
6 Stain:
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REVISED 5/08
7 Scar:
8 Keloid:
Common Skin Problems Related to Sebaceous and Sudorifeous Glands
Sebaceous Glands
1 Acne:
2 Comedones:
3 Milia:
4 Steatoma or Wen:
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5 Asteatosis:
6 Seborrhea:
7 Rosacea:
Sudoriferous Glands
1 Hyperdrosis:
2 Anidrosis:
3 Bromidrosis:
4 Miliara Rubra:
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Other Problems
1 Dermatities:
2 Exczema:
3 Herpes simples:
4 Psoriasis:
5 Dandruff-Pityriasis Capitis:
Pigment, New Growth and Parasites of the Skin
1 Lentigines:
2 Vitiligo:
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3 Chloasma:
4 Leucoderma:
5 Naevris
6 Stain:
7 Albinism:
New Growths
1 Keratoma:
2 Mole:
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3 Melanoma:
4 Verruca:
Staph Infections
1 Carbuncle:
2 Furncle:
Parasites
1 Tinea capitis:
2 Tinea:
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3 Scabies:
4 Pediculosis capitis:
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PRIMARY LESIONS
1 Macule:
2 Papule:
3 Wheal:
4 Tubercule:
5 Tumor:
6 Vesicle:
7 Bulla:
8 Pustule:
9 Cyst:
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SECONDARY LESIONS
1 Scale:
2 Crust:
3 Encoriation:
4 Fissure:
5 Ulcer:
6 Stain:
7 Scar:
8 Keloid:
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Common Skin Problems Related to Sebaceous Glands
1 Acne:
2 Comedones:
3 Milia:
4 Steatoma or wen:
5 Asteatosis:
6 Seborrhea:
7 Rosacea:
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Common Skin Problems Related to Sudoriferous Glands
1 Hyperdrosis:
2 Anidrosis:
3 Bromidrosis:
4 Miliara rubra:
Other Problems
1 Dermatities:
2 Exczema:
3 Herpes simplex:
4 Psoriasis:
5 Dandruff-Pityriasis capitis:
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PIGMENT
1 Lentiginers:
2 Vitiligo:
3 Chloasma:
4 Leucoderma:
5 Naevris:
6 Stain:
7 Albinism:
NEW GROWTHS
1 Keatoma:
2 Mole:
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3 Melanoma:
4 Verruca:
STAPH INFECTIONS
1 Carbuncle:
2 Furncle:
PARASITES
1 Tinea capilis:
2 Tinea:
3 Scabies:
4 Pediculosis:
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