Magnum Venus Products
TM
H.I.S.
Troubleshooting
Manual
The ABC’s of the most economical method of applying
material for the fiberglass industry
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Chapter 1: Materials
Page 1
Chapter 2: Cautions
Page 1
Chapter 3: Catalyst Pump Troubleshooting
Page 2
Chapter 4: General Troubleshooting
Page 5
Chapter 5: Gun Troubleshooting
Page 12
Chapter 6: Chopper Troubleshooting
Page 16
Chapter 7: Resin Pump Troubleshooting
Page 19
Chapter 8: Flush Hose Installation
Page 25
Chapter 9: Flush System Trouble Shooting
Page 25
Chapter 10: Airlift Trouble Shooting
Page 26
Chapter 11: Hose Trouble Shooting
Page 27
Chapter 12: Filled Systems
Page 28
CHAPTER 1
CAUTION!!
Before attempting to disassemble any portion of catalyst or resin
system:
1. The air supply to power head of pump should be turned off.
2. The fluid pressure in the system should be relieved by triggering gun and
allowing fluid to drain into proper receptacle.
3. The air charge on both resin and catalyst accumulators should be released
through charging valves on top of accumulators.
4. Air to solvent tank should be turned off and the pressure relieved from tank.
(Only after flushing gun clean of all resin and catalyst.)
5. If pressure is trapped in system by a fluid block, plugged filter, set-up gun,
etc., remove pressure by disconnecting resin line prior to suspected
blockage.
Note: A large rag or shop towel should be held tightly around wrench and
fitting as fitting is removed. Remove fitting slowly allowing fluid pressure
to escape into rag or towel.
CHAPTER 2:
STOP!!!
Before attempting to perform maintenance on the Magnum Venus System:
1. Protective clothing should be worn at all times.
2. Safety glasses should be worn at all times.
3. Maintenance should not be performed unless others are in attendance to render
assistance in case of an emergency.
4. Should any parts of the body come in contact with MEKP, the area should be
washed immediately with large amounts of clean water.
Page 1
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
SHOULD THE EYES OR INTERNAL
PARTS OF THE BODY COME IN
CONTACT WITH MEKP, A
PHYSICIAN SHOULD BE
CONTACTED IMMEDIATELY.
CHAPTER 3
Note: parts of catalyst system should always be cleaned with clean water only.
Catalyst pump:
Problem
No cure catalyst
pump
Cause
No catalyst. Supply
below outlet fitting on
catalyst jug.
No cure, catalyst
pump not
delivering
Quick pin in slave
arm not fixed to
catalyst pump.
Catalyst Pump
failure*
A. Piston Seal
Failure
Action
Replenish supply.
Install Quick Pin.
Remove catalyst hose, catalyst feed tube
and relief valve tube from catalyst pump.
Remove pump from slave arms. Loosen
locknut on pump cylinder and unscrew
cylinder from outlet body. Slide cylinder
down from piston rod and piston assembly.
Remove seal retainer and remove and
replace piston seal. Be sure spring in
piston seal faces the top of the pump.
Remove O-ring from inside of outlet body
and place on end of cylinder above lock
nut. Reassemble unit.
Page 2
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Catalyst pump
failure*
B. Ball valve in
piston not
seating.
Remove catalyst hose, catalyst feed tube
and relief valve tube from catalyst pump.
Remove pump from slave arms. Loosen
locknut on pump and unscrew cylinder
down from piston rod and piston assembly.
Remove piston from piston rod, remove
spring and ball from piston. Visually
examine ball seat, ball and spring for
contamination or damage. Clean piston
and parts with clean water, blow dry with
air. Replace any questionable parts.
Replace ball and spring in piston and
secure piston-to-piston rod. Remove Oring from inside of outlet body. Place
locknut on cylinder and reassemble pump.
Catalyst pump
failure*
C. Pup ball valve
in inlet body
not seating.
Remove catalyst hose, catalyst feed tube
and relief valve tube from catalyst pump.
Remove pump from slave arms. Unscrew
inlet body form cylinder. Remove ball from
inlet body. Visually examine ball and ball
seat in inlet body for contamination and
damage. Clean with fresh water and blow
dry with air. Remove O-ring from inside
inlet body and place on O-ring seat on
cylinder. Replace any questionable parts
and reassemble pump.
Catalyst pump
failure*
D. Air lock
Remove catalyst hose from nipple on
catalyst accumulator after relieving
pressure from the system. Remove
quick pin from catalyst bearing block and
upper slave arm. Loosen packing nut on
top of catalyst pump. Tilt pump back
toward resin pump and pump catalyst into
a suitable container until catalyst spurts
from nipple an equal amount on both up
and down stroke. Reconnect catalyst
hose to nipple and with trigger open, hand
pump catalyst out through the gun. Reestablish pump in slave arm and retighten
packing nut.
Page 3
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
No cure
Catalyst relief valve
on catalyst
accumulator leaking
Relieve pressure from catalyst system.
Remove return tube form from fitting.
Remove tube-fitting spring and ball from
relief valve body on accumulator. Check
interior of relief valve body for foreign
material contaminant. Install new ball,
existing spring and tube fitting with O-ring
in place. Reinstall return tube on tube
fitting.
Whenever compressed air is used to air dry or to blow off parts, insure that there
is no moisture or oil in air line.
*To determine the cause of catalyst pump failure, the following test is suggested:
1. Bleed pressure from unit by closing shut-off valve for air to power head on resin
pump and running pressurized material out of the lines by squeezing the trigger
on the gun. Relieve pressure. Release trigger. Flush gun.
2. Remove quick pin from catalyst pump bearing block and upper slave arm.
Release packing pressure by loosening packing nut at the top of the catalyst
pump.
3. Using the priming knob on the bearing block of the pump, hand pump the piston
rod up and down several times. The pressure build up should be felt. If a
pressure build up cannot be felt, and the pump action feels spongy, air is in the
pump. If the pressure build up is felt stop pumping
4. Use charging pump to put 250 psi (test figure only) charge in catalyst
accumulator, if fluid is more than 1” in accumulator, re-bleed system as described
in #1.
5. Hand pump catalyst up into the accumulator. The fluid level should raise in the
accumulator glass tube an equal amount on both the up and down strokes.
6. If the fluid does not rise in the down stroke, use corrective action for “C” (Ball
Valve in Inlet Body Not Seating) above.
7. If the fluid does not rise on the up stroke, use corrective action for “B” (Piston
Seat Failure) above.
8. When the fluid level in the accumulator is in the upper 25% of the glass tube and
the fluid ceases to rise on the up-stroke, use corrective action for “A” (Piston Seal
Failure) above.
Page 4
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
CHAPTER 4:
General Trouble Shooting:
Problem
No Cure
Cause
Catalyst hose plugged.
Page 5
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Relieve pressure from
catalyst system.
Disconnect catalyst hose
from fitting on gun. Attempt
to hand pump catalyst
through hose. If none
emerges from end of hose,
place a clean rag over the
hose fitting and nipple on
the catalyst accumulator
and with a wrench under
rag, remove hose fitting
from nipple. CAUTION:
PRESSURE BUILDUP IS
IN ACCUMULATOR AND
CATALYST WILL BE
SPRAYED FROM HOSE
FITTING WHEN FITTING
IS LOOSENED. Remove
catalyst hose fitting from
gun end of hose. Remove
solid core from inside
catalyst hose. Run clean
water through the hose. If
hose fitting on accumulator
end of hose will not accept
fluid, remove and examine
fitting. Note: It may be
necessary to cut off 2” of
hose to re-install fitting
properly. If hose is less
than 30 feet long and 2” of
catalyst hose is cut off, cut
2” of core off also. On
hose lengths longer than
30’ it is not necessary to
cut off core. When water
flows freely through hose,
No cure.
Gun head plugged on
catalyst side.
Uncured area in laminate
Trigger not properly
Page 6
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
blow air through hose to
dry it. Wipe core clean
with a clean, dry rag; insert
core back in hose. Inspect
fitting on gun end of hose.
If fitting is clear and clean,
reassemble it on catalyst
hose. Check hose for free
flow of air through it before
reassembling hose on unit.
It may take in excess of 60
psi to get air through hose.
If hose still indicates
blockage, remove and
replace.
Release pressure from
catalyst system. Remove
catalyst hose form gun.
Remove adapter and
catalyst hose nipple from
gun. Visually inspect
cavity and exposed
retainer and needle in this
area for contamination or
gelled material. Remove
side and front plug from
gun head on catalyst side.
Care must be exercised
when removing front plug
so spring and ball will not
be dropped. Examine
cavity in this section for
contaminants or gelled
material. Remove injector
and inspect. Blow air
through injector to insure
that fluid passage is free
and clear. Examine
interior of mix chamber
through nozzle port. Area
must be free of any
material. Reassemble all
components after thorough
examination. Replace any
worn or damaged parts.
Trigger must be set to
adjusted
Spotty Cure
Catalyst accumulator not
properly charged.
Page 7
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
activate resin needle just
before catalyst needle.
NEVER CATALYST
FIRST. To adjust, position
locknuts on needles so the
locknut on the resin needle
makes contact with the flat
bar on the trigger and the
locknut on the catalyst
needle is within 1/32” of
making contact with
trigger. Trigger must be
squeezed firmly and fully.
Release pressure from
the catalyst system. Be
sure no fluid is in the
accumulator. Gun must
be in open position prior to
releasing pressure in
accumulator. Using
suitable square end rod,
release air from
accumulator by depressing
ball in valve at top of
accumulator. Vent
charging pump by moving
handle up and down
several times before
attaching it to the
accumulator. Before
attaching ¼” hose with
quick disconnect to
charging pump, place
handle of pump in the
extreme “up” position.
Using the pressure
indicated on the gauge of
the regulator for air to the
powerhead, hand pump
the charging pump to the
following values. On 4:1
power head, apply 3 times
the operating pressure.
On 7:1 power head, apply
5 times the operating
pressure. On 10:1 and
Spotty cure
Resin accumulator not
properly charged.
Page 8
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
11:1 power head, apply 7
times the operating
pressure for spraying
condition; for pouring, 4
times the operating
pressure. Remove
charging pump. Check
valve on accumulator for
leak by placing saliva on
top of valve. If saliva does
not produce bubble,
replace valve cap.
Release pressure from
the system. Gun must be
in open position prior to
releasing pressure in
accumulator. Release any
existing charge of air in
resin accumulator by
depressing ball in valve at
the top of the accumulator
with a suitable flat end rod.
It may be advisable to
remove accumulator by
turning counter-clockwise
and unscrewing it from the
nipple. Examine interior of
accumulator to be assured
it is clean and empty.
Clean nipple and O-ring.
Immerse polyproplene ball
in clean uncatalyzed resin
and place on ball seat in
nipple. Clean threads in
accumulator on nipple
hand tight only. Vent
charging pump by
pumping up and down a
few strokes before
attaching it to valve at top
of accumulator. Hand
tighten only. Connect the
¼” hose with quick
disconnect from manifold
to charging pump when
the pump handle is
Spotty cure
Fluid leak
Spotty cure
Poor mixing
Slow gel time
Insufficient catalyst
Page 9
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
extended to it’s full, upright
position. Using the
pressure indicted on the
gauge of the regulator for
air to the power head,
hand pump the charging
pump to the following
values; on the 4:1 power
head, apply 3 times the
operating pressure. On
the 7”1 power head, apply
5 times the operating
pressure. On the 10:1 and
11:1 power head, apply 7
times the operating
pressure. Note: For
correct accumulator
charge, accumulators
must be charged when
empty of all material and
both accumulators must
be charged the same.
Check all fittings and
needles. Hydraulic system
must be fluid tight. Needle
seats need periodic
replacement. Needle
packing and seals need
periodic replacement.
Leakage of material affects
proper mix and cure.
Insure proper accumulator
charge in both resin and
catalyst accumulators.
Check injector for damage,
and check turbulent mixer
for cleanliness and
damage.
Check placement of pump
in slave arms. Adjustable
from lowest setting to
(farthest position from
resin pump) to highest
setting (closest position to
resin pump). Settings are
marked on slave arm.
Keep pump vertical in
related holes. Increase
setting if gel time is too
slow.
Cold resin
Low room temperature
Run out (SAG)
Resin
Excessive gel time
Excessive misting
Resin
No resin fan
Obstruction in resin filter
Page 10
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
For best results of material
usage, keep material at
78º F. (25º C). Proper
temperature control of
resin should be physically
checked with thermometer.
Maintain an even room
temperature of
approximately 70º F. Mold
should be ion draft free
location.
Auxiliary heat directed on
lay-up can be used to
hasten gel time.
Consult resin supplier for
proper gun type resin and
different thixotropic
qualities.
Increase percentage of
catalyst to shorten gel
time.
Reduce power head
pressure.
Turn air to power head off.
Bleed fluid pressure from
system. Unscrew tank
from filter. Clean tank,
screen and core with
solvent. Clean inside of
filter body. With special
red grease, wipe O-ring,
inside of body and external
threads on body.
Reassemble filter; hand
tighten tank’ slowly open
air to power head valve.
Unit is now ready to
Dry glass
Chopper not properly
aligned
Excessive over-shoot
Operator error
Poor saturation
Low resin volume
No pre-wet
Resin-rich and resin-poor
areas.
Operator error.
Page 11
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
function.
Using swivel between gun
handle and chopper base
plate move and fix chopper
so glass is directed in the
middle of resin fan pattern.
Keep chopper down close
to gun head to allow glass
to enter resin fan between
nozzle and turbulence halo
approximately 2” from
nozzle tip.
Run horizontal fan,
depositing material to
within 1” of the edge of the
mold. Run fan vertically
just within the edge of the
mold. With laminating
roller, skid material
deposited in vertical
application past the edge
of the mold for minimum
trim.
Increase powerhead
pressure and nozzle size
or decrease chopper
pressure. Note:
Excessive power head
pressure will create
misting and over-spray.
Pre-wet mold or gel coat
mold prior to chopper or
laying mat or woven
roving. Adjust chopper for
slightly more dispensed
glass to resin ration to
compensate for pre-wet
resin applied to mold to
have corrected finished
glass to resin ratio.
Check gun and chopper
for proper dispensing of
materials. Resin fan
should be wide with slight
fingers on both edges.
Glass should enter fan in
center and close to nozzle
to broadcast fiber from
finger to finger of fan. Gun
should be operated equal
distance from part at all
times and moved at a
rhythmic, constant speed.
Mold lay-up plan should be
exercised to control natural
tendency or resin to run
out from high to low place.
See “Problem, Run out.”
Flighty Glass
Check ceramic guides on
boom. If worn, they could
be causing static. Note:
Clamp-on, replaceable
guides are available.
Whenever compressed air is used to air dry or to blow off parts, insure that
there is no moisture or oil in air line.
To Remove Catalyst Injector Nozzle:
Remove side plug and front plugs, spring and check ball. Install Magnum Venus
Products drill Bushing ST-82 (45036-1) (Figure 1) from tool kit. Install #4 drill
(00002) in drill chuck (Figure 1) and drill injector out. Remove #4 drill bushing from
gun head, clean threads with ¼-28 tap (00001) – (Figure 2).
To Clean Gelled Resin from Chamber:
Install drill bushing ST-80 (45034-1) in gun head. Install 1/8” (.125) diameter drill
(ST-81) (45035-1) in drill chuck (Figure 3). Drill full 2-3/8 inches. CAUTION:
Damage could result if drill is forced deeper than 2-3/8 inches. Remove drill
and drill bushing. Clean head thoroughly. Install new injector and reassemble gun
head.
Note: For proper installation, port on flush seal retainer must be in line with
port for catalyst injector.
CHAPTER 5
Gun Trouble Shooting:
Problem:
Leak in nozzle area
Cause:
Worn needle seat.
Page 12
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action:
Determine which material
Worn needle/
Weak return spring in gun
handle.
is leaking by removing the
following parts: plug on
resin side of gun head,
side plug on catalyst side
of gun head, nozzle cap,
nozzle and turbulent mixer
from front of gun. Visually
examine areas now
exposed to determine
source of leak. Remove
and replace worn part.
Nozzle cap leak
Worn or damaged
turbulent mixer or
damaged gun block
Distorted fan
Orifice in nozzle worn,
clogged or damaged
Hardened resin in gun
head
Improper flushing
Remove and replace
turbulent mixer. Check for
damage on outlet of gun
block. Nozzle cap should
be tightened by hand only.
Push fine wire through
nozzle orifice from back
side of nozzle to clear
orifice. Pick with fingernail to clean resin from “V”
shaped indentation on
front of nozzle. Hardened
resin on nozzle may be
softened by soaking in
solvent. If milled “V”
shaped indentation on
front of nozzle appears
rough or worn, replace
nozzle.
At the end of every use,
push trigger forward to
clean mix chamber. If gun
is not to be used for ½
hour or more during
work day, follow this
procedure: remove nozzle
(or static mixer), nozzle
cap and turbulent mixer
and front plug on resin
side. These parts may be
rinsed with the gun by
pushing forward on trigger.
With finger over nozzle
Page 13
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Resin fan without catalyst
Cavity on catalyst side of
gun has gelled or
hardened resin.
Page 14
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
outlet, push forward on
trigger to flush resin cavity
out front plug hole on resin
side. Visually examine
mix chamber for
cleanliness. Hang gun
with mix chamber down
until next use. For
overnight or weekend
inactivity, use the
following procedure:
remove nozzle cap,
turbulent mixer or static
mixer. Clean these parts
rinsing with solvent by
pushing forward on the
trigger. Additionally, flush
mix chamber. Remove
front plug on resin side of
gun head. With finger
over nozzle outlet, push
forward on trigger to flush
resin cavity out front plug
hole on resin side.
Examine visually the mix
chamber and resin
chamber for cleanliness.
Remove side plug from
catalyst side of gun head
and with clean rag or
paper towel, blot excess
catalyst off gun to prevent
fume generated curing of
any un-purged resin.
Hang gun with mix
chamber down. Before restart of unit, inspect
catalyst cavity and resin
cavity for evidence of
leakage. Also inspect mix
chamber for signs of
solvent leakage.
Remove front plug and
side plug from catalyst
side of gun head. Pick
gelled and hardened resin
from well with suitable tool
being careful not to
damage threads in plug
ports. Free and remove
spring and ball. Remove
injector (see picture of tool
application). Clean the
entire cavity thoroughly.
Run tap water through
injector port to clean
threads. Replace all worn
or damaged parts.
Leak in packing
Needle packing worn (see
drawing next page)
Leak from nipples on gun
head
Trigger action stiff
Tighten needle packing by
turning packing nut
clockwise on flush, resin or
catalyst needle packing
where leak is evident. If
leak persists, remove and
replace packing. Keep
needles lubricated to
prevent over-spray from
forming on needles and
being forced into packing
with trigger action.
O-ring failure
Remove and replace Oring for seal between
nipple and gun head
where leak is detected.
Loose hose connection
Tighten hose fitting on
nipple.
Catalyst nipple pipe thread Remove catalyst hose
worn.
nipple from adaptor. Apply
Teflon tape to nipple pipe
fitting. Screw nipple back
into adapter.
Trigger bent, needles
Remove trigger and
bent, spring, spring screw straighten tangs so holes
or needle guide worn
for stud and nut align.
Remove and replace bent
needles or worn needle
guides. Remove spring
screw and spring from gun
handle for inspection.
Replace deformed springs
or worn spring screws.
Page 15
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Broken Trigger
Pulling trigger back further
than needle guides allow.
Apply lubricating grease
liberally to spring and
interior of spring screw
before reassembling.
Coat needles with suitable
grease before replacing
trigger. Be sure trigger
stud and screw are tight
and trigger is riding free on
stud and stud shoulder.
Readjust trigger setting
before operating gun. Be
sure trigger does not hit
against band on catalyst
hose or resin hose fitting.
Do not pull trigger back
this far. Use screw
adjustment on trigger
catch for correct
adjustment.
Do not apply more tension
to trigger than necessary
to activate needles.
CHAPTER 6:
Proper Chopper Adjustment Procedure
The following adjustments, when carefully made, will allow the chopper to perform
very well with any major manufacturer’s chopper roving (2 strands of glass are
normally recommended). Proper adjustments will assure uniformity to cut strand
and the longest possible life of the rubber roll and blades.
An understanding of the operation of the chopper operating design will help to clarify
the need for good chopper adjustment. The ribbon of glass is passed through
carbide rings in the roving guide where the restrictive action separates the strands
and starts the break down of the fiber. The strands are then passed over the idler
bearing at the nip point of the bearing and rubber roll with just enough compression
to lay them flat, side by side. The strand is then pulled by the pinch grip between the
rubber roll and blade rotor to the point of impact between the blade and the rubber
roll. The broken strands are then thrown from the chopper by the inertia created by
the velocity of the glass strands.
Chopper Adjustments:
Page 16
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Be assured, before making adjustments, that there is no glass build up between the
robber roll mandrel, idler bearing and rotor and the chopper base plate. Check to
see that all rotating parts are free running.
Note: New blades should be dulled by whetting on a piece of cardboard to
remove sharp edges.
Holding the eccentric nut for the idler bearing at the chopper base plate, with a
suitable socket wrench loosen the cap screw and rotate the bearing away from the
rubber roll. Follow the same procedure to loosen the rubber roll and rotate it away
from the blade rotor. Turning the eccentric nut in the direction that will position the
off-center hole toward the gun handle mounting hole on the chopper base plate,
position the rubber roll against the blade rotor so it touches the rotor area between
two blades. Tighten the cap screw while holding the eccentric nut. Physically check
the adjustment by holding the blade rotor and rotating the rubber roll. The tension
should be adjusted so the rubber roll will skid with a little drag against the rotor. The
idler bearing can now be properly positioned in relation to the rubber roll. Rotate the
eccentric nut for the idler bearing so the off-center hole in the eccentric will face
toward the chopper mounting of on the gun handle and the idler bearing sleeve is
against the rubber roll. Back the idler bearing off and away from the rubber roll a
very slight amount. The idler bearing should look like it touches the rubber roll but
will not rotate when the rubber roll is turned. A final check to assure the components
are properly assembled on the base plate should be made before the cover is
secured. A washer should be between the roll mandrel and the base and between
the idler bearing and the base plate. The blade rotor should be aligned edge to
edge with the rubber roll. The blade retainer and spring should approach the rubber
roll prior to the blade. The blade should be supported against the high side of the
blade slot in the rotor (i.e. on the center line). The rotor should be secured to the air
motor shaft with the set screws turned down against the flat on the shaft. Align the
step in cover with the slot on the chopper base plate. Push the cover retainer in the
receptacle and turn ¼ of a turn to secure cover.
Chopper Trouble Shooting:
Problem
Air motor will not run
Cause
Regulator on manifold not
on.
Manifold block
Air valve on gun handle not
activated by trigger bar
Page 17
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Set regulator so gauge
reads more than 20 psi
Speed control thumbscrew
on chopper manifold block
should be turned counter
clockwise until fully opened.
Squeeze trigger to full “on”
position to move poppet
stem to “on” position.
Trigger must depress
poppet stem 1/8” for full
“on” of air to Chopper.
Motor frozen
Blade rotor stalls during
start and stop operation
Chopped strands not
uniform length
Remove and repair motor.
Air motor in operating
condition should be oiled
with light-weight machine
oil, two drops every 4 hours
of operation through the
blower thumb screw (air
control valve).
Rubber roll too tight against Loosen cap screw on roll
blade rotor.
mandrel and turn eccentric
nut to loosen pressure
between rubber roll and
blade rotor. Correct tension
is applied when rubber roll
can be skidded on blade
rotor when blade rotor is
held in position and roll is
turned.
Blade not fully depressed
Push blade to bottom of
on rotor
blade slot in rotor with small
block of wood.
Worn or damaged blades or Blades must be free of
rubber roll.
nicks and breaks. New
blades should be dulled by
whetting on cardboard to
remove keen hair edges
prior to installation.
Grooves, glass cuts in
rubber roll, or other
irregular markings on
surface caused by worn
blades requires a change in
rubber roll.
Clam Shells
Magnum Venus Pump Packing Removal Tool:
The clam shells are tools to assist the removal of the packing in the center casting of
the resin pumps. The proper tool for your pump is supplied with the pump. The
following will explain their use:
1. Remove the piston cylinder from the bottom of the pump and the spring retainer
and spring above the pump piston.
2. Slowly apply air to the pump to raise the piston to the top of the stroke.
Page 18
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
3. Insert Clam Shell sections into the hole around the piston rod at the bottom of the
oil well in the center casting, one half of the shell on either side of the piston rod.
A. On HIS 11:1, 10:1, 7:1, 5:1 or 4:1 pumps by slowly applying air to the
power head, the slave arm will move downward, pushing the clam shell
down which in turn will move the packing down and out of the center
casting.
4. Clam shells can/will be removed with packing set out of bottom of pump.
CHAPTER 7:
Resin Pump Trouble Shooting:
Problem
Cause
Worn Spool
Page 19
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Remove nuts from tie rods
on center section and
withdraw tie rods. Raise
cylinder head above
cylinder and with proper
wrench, remove piston
keeper from power head
piston rod. Lift cylinder
head assembly from the
unit. Remove snap ring
from bushing on under-side
of cylinder head. Remove
the two detent trip spring
retainers, detent trip springs
and balls. Remove cylinder
head cap. Pull valve spool
assembly and bushing out
of lower side of the cylinder
head. Examine valve spool
O-rings and replace any
worn or damaged parts.
Push bronze valve sleeve
down and out through lower
side of cylinder head. Care
must be exercised not to
scratch or nick polished
bronze valve sleeve.
Examine O-rings now
Valve spool assembly out
of adjustment
Page 20
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
exposed for damage.
Remove and replace any
worn or damaged O-rings.
Examine spool for
excessive wear. Replace it
if worn or damaged.
Replace damaged or
broken springs.
Reassemble following
procedure in manual.
Remove power head
assembly from pump.
Remove spring retainers,
detent trip springs, and
balls from power head.
Turn power head upside
down and remove snap
ring. Pull entire valve spool
assembly out of power
head. Place valve spool
assembly in vise (valve
spool facing up) and
remove in order; lock nut,
upper valve keeper, and
valve spool. Loosen jam
nut and remove upper valve
rod from lower valve rod.
Clean threads of upper
valve rod and screw rod
back into lower valve rod
until it bottoms out. Use
serviceable locktite.
Tighten jam nut against
lower valve keeper. Place
valve spool over upper
valve rod until it rests on
lower valve keeper (O-ring
end of valve spool facing
down). Screw upper valve
keeper onto upper valve
rod hand tight against valve
spool. Screw lock nut on to
upper valve rod. With
suitable wrench back off
upper valve keeper from
valve spool approximately
Pump fails at top or bottom
of stroke – will not restart
Pump exhausts excessive
oil through silencers
1/3 of a turn and holding
upper valve keeper with
wrench in that position,
tighten lock nut against
upper valve keeper with
another wrench. This
should allow valve spool to
spin freely but not move up
or down. Reassemble
assembly to power head
and to pumping system
using assembly procedure
as outlined in manual.
Broken or worn detent trip
Check detent trip spring
spring. Loose detent trip
retainers for tightness.
spring retainer.
Retainers must be secure
in cylinder head. If
retainers are in place and
pump will not operate,
remove retainers and
springs. Replace any worn
or broken springs.
Examine balls for wear or
damage. Liberally lubricate
inside of retainer with
suitable grease.
Reassemble balls, springs
and retainers. Fully tighten
spring retainers.
Valve trip collar missing or
Remove head and piston
hole dirty so cannot reach
keeper and check valve trip
bottom.
spring. Check piston rod to
see hole is free of rust or
dirt and trip collar is in
place.
Lack of lubrication
Pump oiler must provide
adequate lubrication.
Follow instructions carefully
as given on original bottle
provided with system.
Note: Oiler is pre-set at
factory and under normal
usage should not need
adjustment.
Excessive Lubrication. One Turn oiler off for a short
drop of oil falls in sight
period of time to allow
Page 21
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Resin in oil well in center
section
glass on top of lubrication
every 3rd stroke
Worn packing
Worn or scored piston rod.
Page 22
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
excessive oil to exhaust
from power head.
Replace Teflon packing set
in lower unit. Remove nuts
from tie rod and foot valve
collar from foot valve.
Remove cylinder and foot
valve assembly from center
section by pulling down on
cylinder. Remove piston
body assembly from piston
rod (4:1 and 7:1 units with
long pump – remove foot
valve and pump tube,
piston cup assembly, 2
bolts and collar and
adapter). Slide spring
retainer and packing spring
down piston rod to remove.
Place packing assembly
removable tool,
(“clamshells”) one section
on either side of piston rod
below upper slave arm in oil
well area of center section.
Disconnect catalyst pump
from upper slave arm, and
by pushing down on slave
arm, extract female ring,
Teflon packing and male
ring from piston rod. Clean
all components well before
reassembling with new
Teflon packing set. Follow
assembly procedure
prescribed in manual.
Note: a small amount of
resin will leak by seal
area. With rag or paper
towel, roll up and out
occasionally.
Continued use of a piston
rod that is scored or it’s had
chrome plate is wearing off
must be replaced. New
packings to prevent leak at
this stage are not effective.
No resin delivery on down
stroke
No resin delivery on up
stoke
Air entering pump during
running.
Foot valve, spring, spring
retainer, or foot valve ball
worn or dirty
Piston cups, piston ball or
pump cylinder worn.
Fittings on wand assembly
not tight.
No flush solvent at gun.
No air
No solvent in tank.
Blockage in flush hose or
gun.
Page 23
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Remove, clean/replace
parts as necessary.
Remove, clean/replace
parts as necessary.
Check all fittings from filter
on bottom of wand to union
on pump and retighten.
Set regulator air on
manifold to flush solvent
tank to 30 psi for resin and
for gel coat spraying. Set
regulator at 40 psi for
casting and hydrajecting
operations. Be sure valve
cock is on ¼ turn.
Turn regulator to flush tank
“off”. Release air form tank
by pulling up on ring on
relief valve on lid of flush
tank. Release and remove
lid. Fill tank with solvent.
Take care to position O-ring
on cover before sealing
tank.
Turn regulator to flush tank
to “off”. Release pressure
from tank. Disconnect hose
from tank and gun and blow
through with air. IF hose
does not readily pass air, it
should be replaced. Check
nipple to hose connection
on gun. Remove elbow
and nipple from gun and
check their cleanliness.
Visually examine cavity in
gun head for obstructions.
All ports and openings in
needle area of flush system
must be clean of foreign
matter. Clean all areas and
replace any and all worn or
damaged parts.
Air relief valve bleeds
constantly
Too high regulator pressure
Valve not sealing
Pump will not start
No air
Resin set up in lower unit
Non-primed system with
wand
Page 24
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Reduce pressure to flush
tank. Air pressure to tank
should not exceed 50psi
(Relief valve is set at 60psi)
Reset relief valve by lifting
ring on relief valve and
letting it reseat. If this fails
to remedy malfunction,
remove relief valve counter
clockwise and remove it.
Inspect valve and valve
seat for contamination.
Replace any worn or
damaged parts and
reassemble.
Check air source to
manifold for supply. Check
regulator for air to power
head supply. Regulator
must read minimum of 20
psi. Open air valve to
power head from regulator.
Assure air direction
indicator on oiler is
honoring air input. Check
oiler for obstructions.
Remove nuts and foot valve
collar from tie rods. Pull
cylinder down from center
section casting. Clean
and/or replace any
damaged or worn parts.
Reassemble. (4:1 units
and 7:1 units with long
tube, remove foot valve and
pump tube, piston cup
assembly, 2 bolts and collar
and adaptor. Clean and/or
replace any damaged or
worn parts.
Check all connections
between pump and end of
resin pick up and for leaks.
Pour resin down wand to
Pump cycles when gun is
not in use
Worn piston cups
Pumps stops air
continuously exhausts.
O-ring failure
foot valve of pump.
Immerse wand into resin.
Throttle air to pump slowly
until pump responds to
drawing resin.
Remove tie rod, nuts, and
foot valve collar. Remove
cylinder and foot valve from
center section of pump.
(4:1 and 7:1 units with long
pump tube, remove foot
valve and pump tube).
Hold piston body secure
and remove piston keeper,
back-up ring, piston cup,
spacer ring and second
piston cup. Replace cups
by installing assembly in
reverse order of tear down.
Valve spool or valve sleeve
O-rings ruptured. Push
pump piston rod to the
extreme up position before
disassembling power head.
CHAPTER 8:
Flush Hose Installation:
1. Install solvent line before catalyst and resin hoses.
2. Apply 30psi to solvent pressure pot and check retainer for leak.
CHAPTER 9:
Flush System Trouble Shooting:
Problem
Resin in solvent hose or
flush tank
Cause
Flush needle seat leak
Page 25
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Apply more spring
pressure to flush needle
by holding needle with
screwdriver, through the
mix chamber and
tightening the spring
retainer for the flush
needle by turning it
clockwise with a suitable
wrench. Check to see
packing nut is not too tight
to overcome force of
spring. If leak condition
persists it is necessary to
remove and replace the
flush needle seat. Clean
solvent tank, hose, elbows
and nipples prior to
reassembling system.
CHAPTER 10:
Airlift Trouble Shooting:
Problem
Air-lift will not rise
Cause
Insufficient Air
Leaks.
Over tightened bracket
Worn Packing cups
Page 26
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Check air to unit. Set
regulator on manifold at
50psi and attach quick
disconnect to air lift
connector. Increase air
pressure on regulator until
air lift rises.
Make sure all connections
are tight. Leaking air
reduces efficiency of
equipment.
If bracket or bracket Ubolts have been overtightened, cylinders will
seize on post. Loosen
until cylinder rides
smoothly on post.
Remove and replace.
Remove pump from airlift.
Disconnect flush pot and
remove. Unscrew post
from base; unscrew stop
sleeve from cylinder and
slide cylinder from post.
Replace cup. Care must
be taken, after
reassembling new cup,
washer and screw, when
inserting post into cylinder.
Be sure cup is not
disfigured when It is
pushed into cylinder.
Replace stop sleeve and
reassemble unit. Caution:
Be sure stop ring is in
place.
CHAPTER 11:
Hose Trouble Shooting:
Problem
Hose leaks at fittings
Cause
Loose fitting
Damaged fitting or nipple
Crimped hose
Resin hose plugged
Hardened or gelled resin
Page 27
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
Action
Tighten fitting. Check
fittings for leakage before
operation.
Damaged threads or
damaged male and female
seats between fittings and
nipples can cause
leakage. Remove and
replace any damaged
parts. Note: a leak proof
system must be
maintained for proper
performance of
equipment.
If hose has been sharply
bent, the plastic liner can
be ruptured or separated
causing restriction or
blockage of flow. Remove
and replace hose.
System is sealed and
filtered. If resin gels or
hardens in hose, gun has
not been properly flushed
and/or needles are not
fully closing on seat. See:
Gun Trouble Shooting,
Chapter 8 to correct this.
Check filter to determine if
screen is in place.
Maintain cleanliness of
screen at all times.
Catalyst hose plugged.
Contamination
Catalyst leak back through
gun
Hardened area will
generally be confined to
ship section (1/4” x 34”
hose). If resin is in a
gelled state, it is possible
this can be pushed
through, using pump
pressure and then flushed
clean with solvent. If resin
is hardened, remove and
replace hose.
Make sure lid is on
catalyst jug at all times.
Maintain clean supply of
catalyst. Be sure screen
is intact and clean on end
of catalyst gravity flow
hose. When catalyst
pump has been
dismantled, be sure all
parts are clean and free of
any foreign particles.
Catalyst flow area through
homes is very limited and
can be restricted by any
foreign matter.
Remove hose fittings on
ends of catalyst hose and
make sure small orifices in
fittings are free and clear.
If necessary, remove
catalyst hose core, wash
clean with clear water.
See Catalyst Pump and
General Trouble Shooting;
‘Catalyst hose plugged’ &
‘Gun head plugged on
catalyst side’.
CHAPTER 12:
Instructions and Procedures for Filled Resin Systems:
Certain processes and economic factors may call for a filler of some type (such as
calcium carbonate, alumina trihydrate, glass bubbles, shell flour, etc.) to be used
Page 28
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual
with resin. Many factors should be considered when deciding to use these
materials. One, not often considered, is the additional wear and tear on equipment.
Fillers do increase wear. To what extent, is based on many factors such as amount
and type of filler, volume dispensed and type of system used (spray, pour, etc.).
The following adjustments to the equipment and procedures are recommended for
systems using filled resins.
1. Magnum Venus Products has available the following parts for longer wear:
A.
B.
C.
D.
Carbide gun needles.
Carbide gun seats.
Carbide spray tips.
Hardened resin pump cylinders.
2. Reversing the direction of the bottom piston cup in the resin pump will
increase pump stroke efficiency with filled systems only.
3. Remove or increase the mesh size of all resin pump filler screens to prevent
flow restrictions or filler separation.
4. Auxiliary heat applied to the filled resin may be needed to create a spray fan.
Note: consult a Magnum Venus Products representative if in doubt.
5. Never leave filled resin in a system long enough for the filler to separate and
settle on balls/seats in the system.
6. Never use improperly mixed filler in a system. (Consult your resin/filler
representative for proper materials and mixing procedures.) It is important to
keep filled resin systems under constant agitation.
7. Never flush a filled system with solvent. This will usually remove the resin
and leave the filler. Always pump non-filled resin through the system to
remove filled resin, and then flush with solvent.
This information and procedures are only an aid to assist you in using your Magnum
Venus Products equipment properly. Not all Magnum Venus systems can be used with
fillers, nor can all fillers be used with Magnum Venus systems. Always consult your
Magnum Venus Products representative when considering a filled system.
Page 29
H.I.S. Troubleshooting Manual