1
Assembly Manual / Airframe – 104” AJ Slick
Designed by Andrew Jesky
Thank you for purchasing this 3DHobbyShop ARF RC aircraft. If you have any issues, questions, concerns or
problems during assembly, please contact our tech department at:
Info@3DHobbyShop.com or 1-830-990-6978 10am-4pm Central M-Th
SAFETY in Assembly
During assembly of this aircraft, you will be asked to use sharp knives and hobby adhesives. Please follow all safety
procedures recommended by the manufacturers of the products you use, and always follow these important guidelines:
ALWAYS protect your eyes when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools. Safety glasses are the
best way to protect your eyes.
ALWAYS protect your body, especially your hands and fingers when using adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power
tools. Do not cut toward exposed skin with hobby knives. Do not place hobby knives on tables or benches where they can
roll off or be knocked off.
ALWAYS have a first-aid kit handy when working with adhesives, knives, or tools, especially power tools.
ALWAYS keep hobby equipment and supplies out of the reach of children.
IMPORTANT NOTE – We strive to provide the absolute best-quality ARF aircraft on the planet. However, the ultimate
success or failure of this aircraft is dependent upon proper assembly by you. If you have questions about an assembly
step, please contact us, or read the assembly thread for your airplane on RCGroups.com before proceeding. It is always
better to slow down and be sure of your assembly than to rush through it and make a mistake which can cause a crash.
SAFETY in Flying
SAFETY NOTICE: This is NOT a toy! It is a very high-performance RC airplane capable of high speeds and extreme
maneuvers. It should only be operated by a competent pilot in a safe area with proper supervision.
ONLY fly your aircraft in a safe, open area, away from spectators and vehicles–and where it is legal to fly.
NEVER fly near overhead power or utility lines. If your airplane ever becomes stuck in a line or a tree DO NOT attempt to
retrieve it yourself. Contact the authorities for assistance in retrieving your aircraft. Power lines are DANGEROUS and
falls from ladders and trees CAN KILL!
Never fly too close to yourself or spectators. Spinning propellers are DANGEROUS!
Never run your motor inside a house or building with the propeller attached – Remove the prop for safety.
Always fly within your control.
Always follow manufacturer’s instructions for your radio system.
Always obtain proper insurance before flying – contact the AMA at www.modelaircraft.org
2
REQUIRED ITEMS
Hobby Knife
Small Phillips Screwdriver
Set Metric Allen Wrenches
Scissors
Small Pliers
Wire Cutters
Adjustable wrench
Masking tape
Drill and drill bits
Threadlocker (Blue Loctite)
Polyurethane and/or 30min epoxy glue
Rubbing alcohol
Optional – Heat gun and covering iron
Dremel tool
Assembly Instructions – Read completely before starting assembly!
UNPACK
Unpack your airplane and examine the components. Check for damage of any kind. If you have damage,
please contact 3DHobbyShop to discuss.
WRINKLES
Your airplane was packed in plastic at the factory without any wrinkles in the covering. You may notice some
wrinkles now; more likely, you will notice a few in a day or two or the first time you take the plane out to the
flying field. These wrinkles are the result of wood shrinkage and/or expansion. Balsa wood changes size and
shape slightly as it is exposed to varying humidity in the air. This is a natural property of balsa wood. As your
airplane adjusts to the weather in your part of the world, wrinkles may appear and disappear. Wrinkles may be
removed with the gentle application of heat to the covering material on your airplane. The best tools to use are
a heat gun and covering iron. Apply the heat gently: the covering material will shrink as you apply the heat, and
this will remove the wrinkles. BE CAREFUL! Too much heat applied too quickly can damage the covering,
either by causing it to pull away from the wood at seams and corners or even by melting it. The covering will
shrink at low temperature with patient application of heat. Wrinkles in the covering DO NOT affect flight
performance. If you must shrink on a color-seam, use the iron and go slowly and carefully to avoid any pulling
or lifting at the seam.
Remove the canopy before attempting to use heat on your covering! The canopy is made of thermo-activated
plastic and WILL deform with the application of heat. Do not apply heat to the canopy.
PAINT
If you need to clean your airplane, we recommend using a damp towel. The paint used on the canopy and cowl
is not safe for all cleaners. In particular, DO NOT use alcohol on these parts, it will remove the paint.
Let’s get started!
Covering Removal (Fuselage)
3
Wing Tube
(Factory Cut)
Wing Safety
Pin
Anti-Rotation Pin
Wing Bolt
Aileron Servo
Extensions
Anti-Rotation Pin
Using a soldering iron or hobby knife, remove covering from forward fuselage areas.
Next remove covering for the horizontal stabilizer bolts and front stab carbon tube.
4
Tail Wheel
1.5mm Allen
Wrench/Driver
Remove tail wheel assembly set screws one at a time and re-torque using blue loctite.
3/32 Allen
Wrench/Driver
Install tail wheel assembly using 3x-4-40 bolts and washers. Use blue loctite on the bolts.
5
Main Landing Gear
Contents of landing gear hardware bag.
Each axle assembly incorporates two wheel collars. The first is used to prevent the wheel from
rubbing on the inner side of the wheel pant, and the second outer collar to secure wheel.
6
Slide cuffs into position on the landing gear. Screw holes should be on bottom.
Slide wheel/axle assembly into wheel pant as shown.
7
Assemble axles/wheels/pants onto main landing gear. NOTE: When properly installed, main
gear is swept very slightly forward. Install two 4-40 screws per pant through gear leg and into
pant blind nuts. Use loctite.
When properly assembled, wheel should be roughly centered in pant opening.
8
Using a 3/32 allen wrench check and tighten all landing gear aluminum angle bracket bolts.
Install the main gear to the fuselage using 4 largest bolts in landing gear hardware bag
+washers and lock nuts.
Then secure landing gear cover plate using epoxy.
9
Install landing gear cuffs using the supplied short 4mm flanged screws. Again using blue loctite.
Exhaust tunnel covers
The 104” has a long tunnel suitable for canisters or tuned pipes. We provide the parts for a variety of
setups. Vented covers are included for the tunnel which can be installed if desired. If using
stock mufflers, the covering over the tunnel can be left intact if desired.
First, if desired, the entire tunnel can be blocked off with this blockoff plate. Install with epoxy glue and
wood screws.
10
Photo of included canister and tuned pipe mounts. Silicone tubing can holders to install on these
mounts are also included.
Rear cover
plate.
Canister
outlet cover
Photo of canister/pipe tunnel covers and contents of fuselage hardware bag, including wood screws for
cover installation. For canister exhaust, outlet cover and front two cover plates are used. For
tuned pipes, the three cover plates are used.
11
Remove the covering over the vent holes on the cover plates as shown.
Install the cover plates over the canister/pipe tunnel as shown using wood screws.
12
Ball links / Pushrods
Your kit includes two types of 4-40 ball-links. The upper one in the picture is the type that goes inbetween the phenolic fiberglass horns on your control surfaces. The bottom type, with the
integral brass pedestal, mounts to a servo arm.
Pushrods on the 104” are assembled in this way, with a ball link on each end of a stainless-steel link.
Not that the links are threads left hand thread on one end and right hand thread on the other.
Look very carefully to determine left and right before screwing on your links.
13
Because the links are opposite threaded on each end, you can use the included link wrench in your kit
to change the pushrod length after they are installed on the airplane.
14
Phenolic Control Horns
The control horns on the Slick are the double-phenolic fiberglass style. The horns for the elevators and
ailerons are identical. The rudder horns are longer, double-sided.
Aileron and Elevator
Control Horns.
(Identical Parts)
Rudder Control
Horn
Elevator and Aileron horns are installed as follows:
With a sanding tool, remove any smooth, shiny surface on the bottom of the horn which will be glued
into your control surface. A light sanding is all it takes for the glue to adhere properly.
15
Assemble the horns as shown using the ball link, 4-40 screw, washer, and locknut, before installing.
Locate the control horn location for each control surface and remove the covering from the double
slots on each surface. Trial fit the horn into, you may have to remove wood shaving or debris from the slot
or trim the slot with a hobby knife.
16
Remove the covering over the horn location as shown and apply plenty of glue into the slots. The best
adhesive for this application is 3M brand DP 460 epoxy adhesive, available from 3M retailers such
as Aerographix.biz
Other acceptable glues include 30 minute hobby epoxy and Gorilla
Polyurethane Glue.
Install the horn, quickly cleaning any glue which comes out around the base plate. Allow to fully cure.
Rudder system
17
The 104” slick offers two locations for rudder servos. Pull-pull cables are already installed in the Slick
for use with the forward location under the canopy bubble. An alternate rear location is provided
at the tail of the airplane. Andrew Jesky gives this advice for choosing your rudder servo
location:
“I prefer the forward rudder servo location. With a DA-100 or DA-120 and in-cowl mufflers, this gives me the
CG I want, which results in zero pitch coupling in knife-edge flight. I do not rear-mount the rudder servos
unless I am running canister exhaust.”
View of the contents of the rudder hardware bag.
18
Installing rudder and Rudder horn
Remove covering over rudder control horn location as shown.
Slide horn partway in as shown and apply a generous amount of glue to all surfaces. Slide the rest of
the way in and install base plate on opposite side. Clean up any excess glue.
19
Install ball links. Align and straighten horn and equalize side-to-side. Allow to fully cure.
Install rudder onto vertical stabilizer and fuselage, slide rudder hinge wire into rudder from the top and
down into the recess slot on top of rudder as shown.
20
Install collar onto rudder hinge wire at bottom. Trim wire as needed.
Pull-pull version
Pull-pull cables are already installed into your fuselage. Complete rear end of pull wires on both sides
as shown, using double crimps and looping wire through crimps as shown.
21
Cross the pull-pull wires once inside the fuselage to form an “X” and complete the front end of the
cables also with double crimps. A typical servo installation with one 4” double-sided offset arm
and one 1.5” single-sided arm shown. Make cables snug, but not “banjo-string” tight. Only snug
is necessary. Match your servos properly according to the instructions of your radio equipment.
22
Push-pull version
Install long pushrod from rudder hardware bag and remove covering over dual rudder push-pull servo
locations as shown.
Install servos and arms as shown. NOTE: Depending on the type of servos and arms used, you may
need to mount the front ball link to the inside of the rudder servo arm to clear the elevator.
23
Horizontal Stabilizers and Elevators
The 104” Slick comes with two different sets of stabs/elevators. One set is for 3D flight and has
counterbalances on the forward edge of the elevators, the other is for sport/precision flight and has a
straight hingeline. Both sets are pre-hinged and gap sealed for you.
Install your elevator servo into the horizontal stab of your choice as shown. Yes, this will take
some time and you will need a long screwdriver. Be patient.
Parts included in elevator hardware bag.
24
Remove covering over servo arm slot and horn location in each elevator.
Install horn and pushrod as shown earlier.
25
Install both carbon stabilizer tubes into fuselage, and slide stabs on all the way. Attach with 440 screws and washers as shown. If stabs are to be permanent, use loctite.
26
Engine
Included engine mounting hardware.
For Desert aircraft twin cylinder engines and 3W, use the included template to drill the firewall
with 1/4” holes.
27
Use the large washers on the back.
DA-120 mounted with longer aluminum standoffs. Note that a washer or two may be necessary
between the standoffs and firewall to get exactly the cowl-to-spinner spacing you prefer.
28
DA-100 and DLE-111 mounted with shorter standoffs.
Glue included backup ring to throttle servo opening as shown.
29
Included throttle linkage parts. NOTE: The link length included is approximate, it works well
on DA-100 and DLE-111, for DA-120 which mounts farther forward, you may need a longer link
for best geometry.
Installing link.
30
NOTE: A choke servo location is supplied on the bottom of the engine box AND a separate
box-type servo mount is included in the kit to allow you to mount a choke servo in any
location. However, we use and recommend a simple manual pull-type choke linkage which
extends through the bottom of the cowl. This linkage is not included, but is easily make from a
short piece of steel wire or an unused section of pushrod.
Engine Cowl Installation
Measure and cut cowl for your exhaust if needed.
Most mufflers will require a front cut as well.
31
Install the bottom half of the cowl using blue loctite on the 4 cowl screws inside. Note the
location of the hole for manual choke linkage.
Install 4-40 screws in top cowl section with loctite.
32
Ailerons
NOTE: There are three servo locations in each wing panel. You can use one servo in the
center location, two in the inner and outer locations, or three servos. Be *extremely careful* if
using only one aileron servo, most twin-cylinder engines 100CC and up produce enough power
to blow back or even a flutter a single aileron servo. Flutter can destroy your aircraft and is not
covered under any warranty. We recommend two heavy duty metal gear aileron servos per
wing, as S-9157 or HS-7955TG.
Contents of aileron hardware bag.
NOTE:
Pull Strings are pre-installed in your wing panels to facilitate pulling servo leads
through the wing panel.
33
Twin aileron servos installed in wing.
Wing Installation
The wings attach using one 6mm nylon bolt and one spring clip per side.
6mm nylon wing bolt.
34
The first few times you install the wings, the holes for the spring clips will be tight to the fuselage side. This is by
design, use a small tool to clearance this fit before installing the clip. After a few cycles this will settle in at the
proper clearance.
Spring clip installed.
35
Canopy hatch
The canopy hatch is supplied with the floor pre-installed. The rear of the hatch is left open so you
can easily install a pilot head and cockpit control panel. When you have completed any work
inside the cockpit, use a small amount of CA glue to install the balsa rear plate onto the canopy
hatch. The canopy hatch is held onto the fuselage with 3mm nylon thumbscrews. These
thumbscrews require no tools to install or remove. Please inspect these screws frequently for
wear and fatigue.
36
Throws High Rate
Ailerons – 35 degrees
Elevator – 45 degrees
Rudder – Maximum throw available without interference
High rate controls typically use 50-75% exponential
Throws Mid Rate (if used)
Ailerons - 30 degrees
Elevators - 30 degrees
Rudder - Maximum throw
Throws Low Rate
Ailerons – 15 degrees
Elevator – 20 degrees
Ruder – 30 degrees
These starting throws are approximate and will need to be tuned to suit the individual pilot.
Center of Gravity
Andrew Jesky’s preferred CG for competition flight is 4.5” back from the leading edge at the
wingtip.
The recommended most-rearward CG is 5.5” back from the leading edge at the wingtip.
Note that the Slick will have very little to no pitch coupling at the forward CG, but will have
some pitch coupling at the rearward CG setting.
3D Hobby Shop wishes you the very best with your new104” AJ Slick!
37
FLY LOW!