Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
Solid Strand Bamboo
Introduction
Thank you for purchasing a Wellmade Performance
Floor! Our flooring combines superior technology and
the highest quality materials available so that your new
floor will perform for many years to come. Combining
our newest Uniclic® locking system with fold-down
technology makes it easier than ever to install. Please
carefully read the following Installation Guideline to be
sure you understand the things you will need to know to
ensure your floor will perform at the maximum level. If
you are unsure about an installation procedure, please
contact our Technical Department for assistance at 866582-0848 (US only) or 503-582-0848, or email: tech@
wellmadefloors.com.
This is a natural product and will have shading
variations. During installation, it is best to work
out of several cartons and mix the various shades
and sizes in a pleasing pattern. When choosing a
flooring product for areas in your home; children,
pets, and lifestyle activity should be taken carefully
into consideration. This flooring will scratch and
dent, just like any other wood flooring. Therefore,
it is important to protect your floor with thick felt or
rubber pads under chairs and other furniture that
may be moved across the floor. In some cases, it
may be necessary to protect your floor from heavy
furniture. Never drag furniture or appliances across
the floor. Scratches, dents, shading variations, and
installation issues are not covered by our Warranty.
In addition, squeaks or other noise when walking on
a floating floor should be considered normal; these
are usually caused by excessive movement of the
flooring.
PLEASE READ BEFORE INSTALLING
Tips For A Successful Installation:
1. Be sure to read all instructions and Warranty first so
you can get your questions answered before you begin.
2. Purchase 105% of the square footage in order to
ensure that you have enough material to complete
the area. If you are installing diagonally, you should
purchase an extra 15% (depending on room size). It
is best if you purchase all of your flooring at the same
time; some products can vary significantly if purchased
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at a later date. It is also helpful if you have extra material
that can be used for future repairs.
3. Be sure to have the various transitions (T-moldings,
reducers, end moldings, & stair nose) and moldings you
will need to finish the installation; this will eliminate the
guesswork on how much space to leave for the various
transitions, and possibly make adding them later far
more difficult.
4. Acclimation is required in order to ensure that
the flooring adjusts to the conditions in your home.
Acclimation should be in the opened cartons for at least
7 – 10 days; very dry or very humid climates may
require more time. (See Pre-installation procedures/
acclimation) Avoid installing when humidity is very high
or very low; you want the rooms to be close to normal
living conditions (temperature should be between
60° – 80° F (16° - 27° C) and relative humidity between
40% & 55%. The best way to determine if the flooring
is fully acclimated is to compare moisture readings of
the flooring and substrate; the difference should be
within 4%. If you do not have a moisture meter or are
unable to get accurate readings, allow significantly
more time for acclimation (2-3 weeks). In order to
minimize expansion/contraction, it may be necessary
to maintain the relative humidity in your home yearround.
5. Moisture testing is important to avoid conditions
which may affect your flooring and provide a breeding
ground for unhealthy mold and mildew. (Please see
Moisture Testing)
6. You will need to undercut door frames to allow
for expansion; this can be done by placing a piece of
flooring on the subfloor and then the saw blade on top
of the flooring before beginning the cut. Remember to
leave room for expansion!
6. Floating floors will expand/contract more than
other floors; if you install in dry conditions the floor
can be expected to grow more, and it will shrink
more when installing in high humidity conditions.
Generally speaking, humidity is much lower in the
winter due to heating. The best and easiest solution
is to use a straight base set 5/8 inch (15.88mm)
above the subfloor combined with quarter round or
base shoe, then cut the boards to the outer edge
(or slightly under) of the straight wall base and
add quarter round or base shoe. Another option
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
would be to cut the drywall (or wallboard) 5/8 inch
(15.88mm) above the subfloor; this is best done with
an undercut saw or oscillating cutting tool; then cut
the flooring even with the outer edge of the drywall,
and add wall base, quarter round, or base shoe.
If you need help in understanding this process,
please call for technical assistance at 866-582-0848.
7. The maximum room size without a transition is
26 feet (7.93m) wide across the width of the boards
and 33 feet (10.06m) long with the length of the
boards; you will need to break the area(s) wider
or longer than these dimensions into sections and
leave a space of 1 1/2 inch (38.1mm) between the
two sections, which can then be covered with the
T-Molding. It is also necessary to leave an expansion
gap in the door opening between rooms (directly under
the middle of the door); this also can be covered by
the T-Molding placed directly under the door. Be sure
to undercut 1 inch deep (25.4mm) under the frame
of the doors so the floor will have equal room for
expansion/contraction. This can be done with an
undercut or door-jamb saw (height of flooring over
underlayment); another method would be to place a
piece of flooring over the underlayment, and use as a
guide for a hand saw.
8. A tapping block may be necessary to gently tap the
flooring together. Never hit the tongue or groove directly
with a hammer. Gentle tapping is the most effective
way to push the planks together. Never try to force the
planks to lie flat; a gentle tap on the tapping block in
the middle of the plank will generally help the plank
fold down into place. If you still have difficulty with
the plank, cut the plank into a smaller piece and use to
begin and finish a row.
9. During installation, it is important to inspect the
flooring. Any planks that are not suitable should not be
installed. Please note that it is the responsibility of
the person installing the floor to inspect the flooring
for defects or other issues that may not be suitable.
Once the flooring is installed, it is considered
acceptable, and becomes the responsibility of the
person installing the floor. Please remember that
damaged planks should have the damaged portion cut
off, and the undamaged portion used to begin or end a
row.
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10.Underlayments: You will need to use an
underlayment that can be purchased from your flooring
retailer; normally, you will use a 2 in 1 (padding &
moisture barrier) or a 3 in 1 (moisture barrier & padding
with sound reduction). Some other examples are
cork, rubber, sound deadening panels, and standard
foam. If your home owner’s association has sound
transmission requirements, you will need to use an
appropriate sound deadening underlayment. Always
be sure that a moisture barrier is either attached or
added separately when installing over the ground floor
or in a basement. You can also use a 6 mil plastic
moisture barrier if one is not attached; overlap and
tape the seams with underlayment tape to ensure
moisture cannot get through. Questions regarding
underlayments can be answered by our technical staff
by calling 866-582-0848.
11.Be sure that all doors that open into the area(s) will
have enough clearance to open; it may be necessary to
cut the bottom of the door to ensure that it will open and
close fully without rubbing against the floor or transition.
Door cutting should be done by an experienced
professional. Also be sure that any appliances and
fixtures will fit back in their place once the flooring is
installed, this is especially true with dishwashers. In
new construction or when adding new cabinets, use a
plywood or other suitable platform under the cabinets or
island that is undersized by at least 1/2 inch (12.7mm)
to allow for expansion, then add quarter-round or base
shoe to cover the contraction space. This will allow 1/2
inch (12.7mm) each for both expansion and contraction.
12. Protect your floor from scratches. Use thick felt or
rubber pads under chairs & tables. Also, if your chairs
or other furniture have rolling castors, you made need to
replace with softer wide rubber castors. Heavy furniture
may require additional protection to prevent denting
under the legs. Never push, drag, or roll furniture &
appliances across the floor as they can damage the
finish. When moving appliances, use 2 sheets of 1/4
inch (6mm) plywood or masonite, being careful that
the bottom of the boards (and floor) are free of grit,
and then slide the appliance from one sheet to the
other, being very careful to not allow the sheets to
move and possibly scratch the floor.
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
Installation Guideline
Responsibilities of the Owner/Installer:
If you take care to install this flooring correctly, taking
all precautions suggested in this guideline, this flooring
will give you many years of satisfaction. While it is
not necessary to use a professional to install this
flooring, a professional can advise you of existing
or past conditions that may affect the long term
performance of the flooring. This is only a guideline
and cannot supply all the details you may encounter
regarding the installation. Detailed preparation and
installation procedures are outlined by the National
Wood Flooring Association’s Hardwood Flooring
Manual (NWFA) 1-800-422-4556 or www.nwfa.org.
Wellmade cannot be responsible for the installation
under any circumstances. Please remember it is
the responsibility of the person installing the floor to
determine the suitability of the application, materials,
and conditions before beginning the installation.
Pre-Installation Procedures/Acclimation:
Please handle, transport, and unload the flooring with
care. Flooring should be stored in the areas where
they will be installed, with at least a four-inch air space
under cartons. Flooring should not be delivered until
the building has been closed in with windows and doors
in place, and until cement work, plastering, painting,
and all other materials are thoroughly dry. Acclimation
is necessary, so it needs to be stored (open ends of box
and plastic) in the area where it will be installed at least
7-10 days prior to installation. Air should be allowed
to circulate freely around and under the flooring. This
may be necessary due to prior storage and transport
conditions. In addition, the heating or cooling system
should be operating and controlled at 60° – 80° F (16° 27° C) and relative humidity between 40% and 55% for
at least 3 - 5 days before, during, and maintained after
installation. As with all wood flooring, your flooring
will experience less expansion/contraction if the
humidity is controlled year-round, and is strongly
recommended.
Moisture Testing:
Moisture testing is required, it will alert you of current
moisture issues that will affect the installation and
promote the growth of unhealthy mold and mildew
which could potentially affect you and your family’s
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health. If necessary, you may want to consult with a
professional for proper testing and guidance. Moisture
levels above 12.5 % in wood subfloors or 4.5 on
moisture encounter meters for concrete subfloors
can promote the growth of mold and should be
investigated to determine the cause and solution of the
problem. Checking for moisture: Use a Delmhorst J-4
(or equivalent) moisture meter for wood, or a Tramex
Concrete Moisture Encounter Meter (or equivalent) for
concrete. You can also use a calcium chloride test for
concrete; test results above 3 lbs. per 1000 square feet
(92.9 square meters) in a 24 hour period can indicate a
moisture issue.
Other Considerations:
Before installation, lay out the flooring where it is to be
installed (that is, lay the planks down roughly as they
will appear after installation), taking care to mix sizes
and a shading pattern pleasing to your eye. Installer
should inspect each plank at this time for finish and
quality. Once installed, it becomes the responsibility
of the installer/homeowner. Remember that all natural
flooring comes in a range of colors and shades. Our
quality control procedures at the factory ensure that
very few, if any defective planks are delivered to the
consumer. Remove baseboards and undercut door
jambs to insure a quality installation. Remember to
allow room for expansion around the entire perimeter of
the flooring. Failure to provide room for expansion
and contraction will result in installation issues.
Recommended Areas:
This flooring is suitable for installation in most areas of
your home, including basements. However, it should
not be installed in wet areas such as full bathrooms
(with tub/shower) or mud rooms. Care should be taken
not to expose the flooring to standing water or liquids for
extended periods of time, as it may damage the floor.
Acceptable Subfloors:
Because of the versatility of our flooring, it can be
installed over virtually any hard surface floor such as
wood, vinyl, and even ceramic tile (be sure the tiles are
firmly attached to the subfloor); for more information
on installing over tile, please contact our Technical
Specialist. Carpet or other textile products will need to
be removed prior to installation. Before beginning the
installation, check for squeaks and other loose areas to
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
ensure they are firmly attached. Areas that are loose
should be fastened with screws or ring shank nails,
as it will not be possible to do this once the flooring is
installed.
Subfloor Preparation:
The subfloor should be clean, free from dirt or
other debris, and relatively flat and level. Normal
requirements call for no more than 3/16 inch (4.7 mm)
difference in a 10 foot (3.05 m) radius. While it may not
be critical to be exact, it will provide a more solid base
for the flooring which will help to eliminate movement
or hollow sounds when walked on. High spots can be
removed by sanding (wood) or grinding (concrete), or
the low spots can be filled with an appropriate leveling
compound.
Method A (preferred): Position the plank at a 2030° angle to the plank already installed. Move the plank
gently up and down while pushing forward. The plank
will then automatically fold into place. You can either
insert the tongue into the groove or the groove on to the
tongue. The tongue in groove method is most common,
and also the easiest. Never force the plank to lay flat,
always help it to fold into position. See Diagrams A-1,
A-2 & A-3.
Diagram A-1
Radiant Heat Subfloors (In Floor Heating):
Due to the popularity of radiant heat and the many
systems available; you will need to consult with
the manufacturer of the system to ensure that it is
compatible with this flooring. The surface temperature
of the heating system should never exceed 80° F
(26.67° C) and must be designed so that the heating
is carefully controlled so that it gradually heats to the
operating temperature. Rapid heating or excessive
heat may damage the flooring or finish. Maintaining
the humidity between 40% - 55% in your home will
keep expansion and contraction to a minimum, and is
strongly recommended.
If installed over concrete, the concrete should be fully
cured (30 – 60 days) before beginning preparation for
flooring. For both wood and concrete subfloors, the
radiant heat should be turned on for approximately
one week to ensure excess moisture is removed. Turn
the system off for at least 24 before beginning the
installation. After the flooring is installed, the system
may be turned back on. It is important the system be
returned to the operating temperature slowly, preferably
over 24 – 48 hours. We strongly recommend that the
humidity is controlled as set forth above.
Diagram A-2
Diagram A-3
Method B: You can also tap the planks into place
with a tapping block and hammer without lifting the
planks. For this method you will need a special tapping
block designed for 3/8 inch (9mm) flooring. The planks
should not be tapped together with a single tap. To
avoid damaging the plank, you must tap them together
gradually. See Diagrams B-1 and B-2.
Diagram B-1
INSTALLATION
General
Uniclic® is a revolutionary system for installing the
flooring without using glue. Because of the unique
shape of the tongue and groove, you can install the
planks in two different ways:
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Diagram B-2
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
Method C: With our new fold-down end joints, you
simply line up the ends of the two boards (Diagram
C-1) with the tongue of the long side of the plank
inserted into the groove, then lower into place. When
working towards a door frame and need to install under
it, lay the final piece flat with the tongue of the short end
of the plank in the groove, slide in as far as possible with
your hands, and then use a tapping block and gently
tap into the final position (Diagram C-2). An alternate
method that would be easier - would be to start the
new row under the door frame. Position the plank so
that ends in the proper spot under the door (remember
to leave room for expansion/contraction), and use a
tapping block to gently tap into place; then continue
installing the planks normally to finish the row.
Diagram C-1
Diagram C-2
Remove all wall base or molding, and undercut door
frames if necessary (see Tip #6). When installing
over concrete or a crawl space, you will need to
use at least a 2 in 1 underlayment (with moisture
barrier); if you are not using an underlayment with
an attached moisture barrier, you can use a standard
underlayment over a polyethylene film (6 mil or
more thickness) for this purpose. Overlap the seams
by 4 – 6 inches (101.6 – 152 mm), and then tape the
seams to provide a seamless moisture barrier. Put
down the plastic film as necessary until you complete
that section, this will help to keep the moisture barrier
from getting damaged. When using an underlayment
with attached moisture barrier, butt the edges of the
underlayment together, overlap the plastic film, and
then use underlayment tape for a seamless moisture
barrier (Figure 1). Allow the film to run up the wall a
short distance; then trim so it will be covered by wall
molding (Figure 2). When starting the installation, it is
important to take time to plan the installation; accurate
measurements will allow you to avoid having to cut
small strips when you reach the other side of the room.
If necessary, you may need to trim the starting row width
so that you can avoid very thin strips of flooring when
you reach the other side of the room.
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Figure 1
Figure 2
Figure 3
To start, the sides of the planks that will go next to the
wall will need to have the tongue portion removed
(Figure 3) to allow room for expansion. To start, take
two full size planks and cut 1/3 and 2/3 off the planks
(be sure that the cut sides will be next to the wall); this
will give you two cut planks to start the second and third
rows. Place the full plank close to the wall, then add
the larger of the two cut planks (aligned to the left, cut
edge next to wall); then take the third smaller cut plank
and do the same (Figure 4.1). It will be helpful to lay
out the planks on the floor, so you see how to use the 2
foot (610mm) boards effectively. Be sure to mix them in
a pleasing pattern, and place close attention that all the
short planks in each box are used effectively, otherwise
you may end up with too many or too few left over. It
is not a good idea to use the short boards for starting
a new row; pieces cut when finishing a row can usually
be used to start the next row. Be sure that all cut planks
are at least 8 inches (203mm) long, and that the end
joints are never closer than 8 inches (203mm) from the
next end joint in another row. Follow the procedures
shown in Figures 4.1 - 4.3 for the first three rows; you
can then push these 3 completed rows into place along
the wall. Be sure to use spacers or scrap pieces of
flooring along the wall to maintain the expansion gap.
At this point, you can avoid a stair step joint pattern by
using the pieces of boards cut off when finishing a row
(or cut new ones). Be sure these pieces are at least 8
inches (203 mm) long. Always keep the end joints at
least 8 inches (203 mm) apart. You can then finish the
room as shown in Figures 4.4 – 4.6.
Note: If the wall is not straight, install the first 3 rows
without wedges. Put the installed boards to the wall and
mark the wall’s line with a spacer or scribe as necessary.
Unlock the first row and saw the planks accordingly.
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
Please Note: Be sure there is sufficient room for
expansion along all walls, under door frames,
and around any pipes or fixtures attached to or
come through the subfloor. Rooms wider than
26ft or longer than 33 feet (10.06m) will require an
expansion gap (you can decide where you think
it will look best), which can be finished with the
T-Molding. When installing in other rooms, leave an
expansion gap directly beneath the door; this can
then be covered with the T-Molding. Never attach
the flooring directly to the subfloor as it will prevent
the floor from expanding/contracting.
Figure 4.4
Figure 4.5
Figure 4.1
Figure 4.5
Figure 4.2
Figure 4.6
Figure 4.3
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Uniclic Floating Installation Guidelines
Pipes: In rows where there is a pipe or other object
through the subfloor, make sure the object lines up
exactly where two boards will meet on the short ends.
Take care to measure carefully before cutting, so the
two boards end at the middle of the object. Use a drill
or hole bit that is the diameter of the pipe or object,
plus 3/4 inch (20mm) for expansion. Click the two short
sides of the boards together, then drill the hole centered
on the joint between the boards as shown. Now you
can separate the two boards and install as normal. See
Diagrams 6A – 6C.
An alternative method would be to start the row at the
door frame and gently tap into place with a hammer
and tapping block, you can then continue installing
across the area to the opposite wall (Diagram7.2). Be
sure that this piece is positioned properly to allow
for expansion under the door frame, as well as the
T-molding that will be used under the door.
Transitions:
All transition pieces should be attached to the subfloor
with a high quality construction adhesive available at all
Home Centers and Hardware stores. Place a generous
bead of adhesive under the part of the transition that
will sit directly on the subfloor, and then press the
transition firmly in place. Be sure the transition sits
firmly in the adhesive, and take care not to get any
adhesive on the finish. Remove any adhesive from the
finish immediately with mineral spirits and buff off any
residue with a dry soft cloth. It may be necessary to
place heavy weights on the transition until the adhesive
dries to ensure it will lay flat. If necessary, you can also
use small finish nails by pre-drilling, countersinking,
and then filling the nail hole with matching putty. Never
attach the transitions directly to the flooring.
Under Door Frames:
NOTE: Because many types of wall base are not very
wide at the base, the preferred option is to use a
combination of straight base combined with quarterround or base shoe (see Tip #6). This will cover
the expansion gap, as well as provide sufficient
coverage to allow for contraction so that it will not
shrink out from underneath the wall base.
When cutting boards that will go under the door frame,
you need to be sure to leave 3/8 – 1/2 inches (9.5 –
12.7mm) plus height of pad for expansion under the
door frame. When undercutting the door frame, be
sure you cut far enough under, so that the frame covers
the board, and still has enough room for expansion/
contraction. Lay the final piece flat with the tongue in
the groove, slide in as far as possible with your hands,
and then use a tapping block to gently tap into the final
position (Diagram 7.1). Remember that this board
needs to end so that the transition piece used in the
doorway ends directly under the middle of the door, plus
the expansion gap. If you are installing in the adjacent
room, the T-Molding should be centered under the door.
Finishing the Floor:
Remove spacers around the perimeter of the floor, then
replace existing or install new wall base or molding.
Never nail the wall base or molding directly to the
flooring. Remember: when moving furniture or
appliances you must never push, pull, drag, or slide
them across the finished floor. CONGRATULATIONS!
You can now enjoy your beautiful new floor!
Diagram 7.1
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Diagram 7.2
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