Loveland CreatorSpace
Wood Shop
Safety Orientation
and
Instruction
Manual
1 of 33
Acknowledgements
Loveland CreatorSpace thanks the following organizations for their wood
shop manuals available on the internet. These manuals are the resources that make
up the vast majority of the wording in the manual.
1. Woodworking Safety Manual and Test; Woodworking Manufacturing
Technologies Department (WMT), Cerritos College, Norwalk CA.
2. Fine Arts Woodworking Safety Manual; Ringling College of Arts and Designs,
Sarasota FL.
3. Wood Shop Orientation and Safety Training; Trinity College, Hartford CT.
2 of 33
Table of Contents
GENERAL SHOP SA F E TY .................................................................................................. 4
WOOD SHOP SAFETY .......................................................................................................... 6
TAB L E SA W........................................................................................................................... 9
M I T E R SA W......................................................................................................................... 10
BAND SA W............................................................................................................................ 11
RADIAL AR M SAW ........................................................................................................................ 12
R O U T E R TAB L E................................................................................................................ 13
HAND-H E LD R O U T E R.................................................................................................... 13
DRI L L PR ESS ..................................................................................................................... 15
PLAN E R................................................................................................................................ 16
DISC and DISC/B E LT (C O M BIN ATI O N) SA ND E R...................................................18
PO R TAB L E B E LT and DISC SAND E R......................................................................... 19
H O RI Z O N TAL SL O T M O R T ISE R............................................................................... 20
H O LLO W C H ISE L M O R T ISE R.................................................................................... 21
15" WIDE BELT SANDER.................................................................................................... 22
E D G E SA ND E R................................................................................................................................. 23
PN E U MAT I C NAI L G UNS and ST APL E RS ................................................................. 24
LAT H E................................................................................................................................................... 25
SH APE R................................................................................................................................ 28
HAND HELD DRILL........................................................................................................... 29
CIRCULAR SAW.................................................................................................................. 30
SABER/JIG SAW.................................................................................................................. 31
SABER SAW.......................................................................................................................... 32
FINISHING YOUR WORK................................................................................................. 33
3 of 33
General Shop Safety Rules
CLOTHING. Dress properly for your work. Remove coats and jackets, and roll up loose or
dangling sleeves. Remove all jewelry. Pin-up long or dangling hair. It is advisable to wear a
shop apron that is snugly tied. Open-toed shoes are not allowed and steel-toes safety shoes are
recommended.
EYE PROTECTION. Wear safety glasses or a face shield when doing any operation that
may endanger your eyes. Be sure you have enough good light to see what you are doing
without straining your eyes.
CLEAN HANDS. Keep your hands clean and free of oil or grease. You will do better and
safer work, and the tools and your project will stay in good condition.
CONSIDERATION OF OTHERS. Be thoughtful and helpful toward others. Be sure that the
work you are doing does not endanger someone else. Caution others if they are violating a
safety rule.
TOOL SELECTION. Select the proper size and type of tool for your work. An expert never
uses a tool unless it is sharp and in good condition.
CARRYING TOOLS. Keep sharp-edged and pointed tools turned down. Do not swing or
raise your arms over your head while carrying tools.
CLAMPING STOCK. Whenever possible, mount the work in a vise, clamp, or special
holder. This is especially important when using chisels, gouges, or portable electric tools.
USING TOOLS. Hold a tool in the correct position while using it. Most edged tools should
be held in both hands with the cutting motion away from yourself and others. Be careful
when using your hand or fingers as a guide to start a cut. Test the sharpness of a tool with a
strip of paper or a scrap or wood. DO NOT USE YOUR FINGERS.
WORKING SPEED. Do not “rush and tear” through your work. The good craftsworker
knows that a steady, unhurried pace is safest and produces the best work.
BENCH ORGANIZATION. Keep your project materials carefully organized on your bench
with tools located near the center. Do not pile tools on top of each other. Never allow edged or
pointed tools to extend out over the edge of the bench.
4 of 33
FLOOR SAFETY. The floor should be clear of scrap blocks and excessive litter. Keep
projects, sawhorses, and other equipment and materials you are using out of traffic lanes.
Immediately wipe up any liquids spilled on the floor.
MATERIAL AND PROJECT STORAGE. Store and stack your project work carefully in
assigned areas.
LIFTING. Protect your back muscles when lifting heavy objects. Have someone help you.
Lift with your arm and leg muscles. Secure help with long boards, even if they are not heavy.
FIRE PROTECTION. Many finishing materials, thinners, etc. are highly flammable. Others
are toxic. Because of this, it is important that these materials be used only in approved
areas. In addition, close cans of finishing materials and thinners immediately after use.
Use flammable liquids in very small quantities. Be sure the container is labeled. Dispose of
oily rags and other combustible materials immediately, or store them in an approved
container. Secure approval before you bring any flammable liquids into the shop.
CLEAN UP. Before leaving the wood shop, operators are REQUIRED to put away all the
tools they have used and to clean up any mess they have made. Consideration for other
members would encourage cleaning up the entire area. Vacuums, brooms, and dust pans
have been provided for this purpose.
OPERATORS WHO DO NOT CLEAN-UP AFTER THEMSELVES WILL LOSE SHOP
PRIVILEGES !!!
Safety First!!!
The most important thing to remember when working with machines and tools of
any kind is Safety first!
Accidents happen quickly, especially around machines and power tools, and they
can result in serious injury and even death.
That is why it is absolutely essential that anyone using machines and power
tools respect all that they can do: both the good and the bad.
So remember, whenever you are in the Wood Shop, your primary focus should
always be:
Safety first!
5 of 33
Wood Shop Safety Rules
REMEMBER, ALL WOOD WORKING TOOLS,
PARTICULARLY POWER TOOLS ARE DESIGNED TO
REMOVE MATERIAL!
MATERIAL CAN INCLUDE YOUR OWN FLESH, BONES,
AND BLOOD!
SAFETY FIRST!!!
1. Before operating any power tool or machine you must become thoroughly
familiar with the way it works and the correct procedures to follow in its use.
As you learn to use a machine the correct way, you will also be learning to use
it the safe way. You must be instructed in the correct and safe use of any
machine before you can use that machine.
2. Wear appropriate clothing. Remove coats or jackets, and roll up loose sleeves.
3. You must be wide awake and alert. Never operate a machine when you are tired
or ill.
4. Think through the operation before performing it. Know what you are going
to do, and what the machine will do.
5. Make all the necessary adjustments before turning on the machine. Some
adjustments on certain machines will require instructor’s assistance.
6. Never remove or adjust a safety guard without the instructor’s permission.
7. Use approved push sticks, push blocks, feather boards, and other safety
devices. Some operations may require the use of a special jig or fixture.
8. Keep the machine tables and working surfaces clear of tools, stock, and
project materials. Also keep the floor free of scraps and excessive litter.
9. Allow the machine to reach its full operating speed before starting to feed the
work.
10.Feed the work carefully and only as fast as the machine will easily cut.
11.Maintain the MARGIN OF SAFETY specified for the machine. This is the
minimum distance your hands should ever come to the cutting tool while in
operation.
12.If a machine is dull, out of adjustment, or not working properly, shut off
the power immediately and inform the instructor.
13.When you are operating the machine, you are the only one to control it. Start
6 of 33
and stop the machine yourself. If someone is helping you, be sure they
understand that they are expected to know what to do and how to do it.
14.Do not allow your attention to be distracted while operating a machine. Also,
be certain that you do not distract the attention of other machine operators.
15.Stay clear of machines being operated by other students. See that other
students are “out of the way” when you are operating a machine.
16.When you have completed an operation on a machine, shut off the power.
Wait until it stops before leaving the machine or setting up another cut.
Never leave a machine running while unattended.
17.Machines should not be used for trivial operations, especially on small pieces
of stock. Do not play with machines.
18.Do not “crowd around” or wait in line to use a machine. Ask the present
operator to inform you at your work station when finished. Common standards
of courtesy may slow you down, but they will make the shop a safer and more
pleasant place to work.
7 of 33
General Information about Wood
Wood: A Bundle of Straws
When working with wood, it is helpful to think of it as a bundle of straws, with the straws
representing the wood fibers. Cutting across the fibers (perpendicular to the straws) is easier
and safer than cutting in line with the fibers (parallel to the straws).
Dimensional Lumber vs. Plywood
A piece of dimensional lumber, e.g. a “2x4”, is a single piece of wood. All of its wood fibers
run in the same direction.
Plywood is composed of a multiple thin pieces of wood glued together. The fibers of one
thin piece are perpendicularly oriented to the fibers of the next thin piece.
Types of Cuts
There are many different ways to cut wood. The two main types of cuts you are most likely to
make are cross cuts and rip cuts. You may also make curved, miter and bevel cuts. As you
will see, different power tools excel at different cuts.
1. Cross cut –cutting perpendicular to the wood fibers and / or cutting a piece of plywood to
2.
3.
4.
5.
length
Rip cut –cutting parallel to the wood fibers and / or cutting a piece of plywood to width
Curved cut
Miter cut –an angled cut across the face of a piece of wood
Bevel cut –an angled cut across the depth of a piece of wood
8 of 33
Table Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Rip cutting and cross cutting wood and plywood.
2. Making dados.
Table Saw Safety
1. Watch out for kickback! Leading causes of table saw kickback include:
• Wedging between the rear of the blade and the fence
• Binding against the side of the blade
2. Never force a piece through the table saw
• All pieces should pass through easily
• If you have to force it, the piece is probably wedging or binding
3. Never cut freehand on the table saw
• Always use the rip fence for rip cutting
• Always use the miter gauge for cross cutting
• Never use the miter gauge and rip fence at the same time
(exceptions require special training)
4. Do not use the rip fence for what are really cross cuts
5. All edges placed against the rip fence must be straight
6. Never cut warped or twisted stock on a table saw. The wood being cut must
lie flat on the table
7. Use a push stick for narrow rip cuts of 6” or less in width
8. The table saw blade should project no more than a 1/2” above the piece of
wood you are cutting
9. If using out feed rollers, set them just below the height of the table. (Watch
out: The rollers are heavy.)
10. Do not cut sheets of plywood that are too large for you to control by
yourself.
11. Cross cutting workpieces shorter than 10” requires special
equipment set up.
12. When you complete your work clean all waste and sawdust from
saw, be sure the standard blade is mounted on the saw, and lower the
blade below the table surface.
9 of 33
Sliding Compound Miter Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Making cross, miter, and bevel cuts in dimensional lumber and plywood
2. Cutting PVC pipe.
Sliding Compound Miter Saw Safety
1.
Keep protective guards in place at all times.
2.
Remove scraps and other foreign items from the machine before operating the
saw.
3.
Make sure the piece to be cut is firmly against the table and fence before
cutting.
4.
Allow the blade to reach full speed before cutting.
5.
Do not force the tool into the work.
6.
Never hold the piece to be cut in a manner that causes your arms to
cross. The majority of all cuts are made on the miter saw with the
material held with the left hand on the left side of the saw while the
right hand operates the machine.
7.
Do not leave the area of the machine until the blade has come to a full and
complete stop.
8.
Always maintain a 6" margin of safety between all body parts and the blade.
9.
Remove chips, scraps and cutoffs only after the blade is at a complete stop.
10.
After placing the stock securely on the saw table and aligning the
cut, pull the trigger. After the blade comes to full speed, lower the
blade into the work at a moderate speed. When the cut is complete
release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop
before returning it to the upright position.
11.
Use a stick or other hold down device when needed to secure
short material without putting your hand in danger.
12.
The workpiece should be held in place, rather than the off-fall, by the operator
for all cuts.
13.
NEVER use the chop saw to cut rough material length.
10 of 33
Band Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Making curved or irregular cuts in wood.
2. Cutting plexiglas.
Band Saw Safety
1.
Adjust the upper guide and guard to about 1/8" to 1/4” above the stock with
the machine at a full stop.
2.
Allow the saw to reach full speed before starting to feed your work.
3.
Plan cuts carefully; lay out and make relief cuts before cutting long curves
and curves of small radii. Turning holes should be made where required.
Plan work so that all cuts will be made in the forward direction. Turn off
power and wait for the blade to stop spinning before backing out.
4.
If the stock binds or pinches the blade, do not attempt to back the stock out.
Shut the power off and remove the stock after the machine stops. Backing
up while the machine is running could pull the blade off the wheels.
5.
When removing scrap material from the band saw table, always be aware
of the blade. Use a piece of scrap stock to remove scrap pieces; do not
use your hands.
6.
Keep the floor areas surrounding the saw clear of scraps.
Note: Given the saw’s 1/2” blade, the minimum cutting radius is 2 1/2”. 1/4”
blades are available.
11 of 33
Radial Arm Saw
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
12 of 33
Table Router and Hand-Held Router
Most Likely Uses
1. Shaping, edging, dadoing of wood.
Hand-Held Router Safety
1.
Use only bits that are specially designed for operation in high speed routers.
2.
Always unplug the router before changing bits or making adjustments other
than the depth of cut.
3.
Do not bottom out the shank of the router bit in the collet. When possible,
insert the bit to
its maximum depth, and then withdraw it about 1/8" before tightening the
collet.
4.
Make sure the bit is firmly secured in the collet before starting work. A
loose bit will work its way out of the collet, damaging your work and/or
injuring you.
5.
Make sure the router motor is tight in the router base before power is turned
on.
6.
When starting the router, make sure the bit is not in contact with anything.
7.
Hold the router firmly when turning on the power to withstand the starting
torque of the router motor.
8.
Keep hands and loose clothing away from revolving bits and cutters.
Operate the router in the proper
direction. If only one side of the bit is
being used, move the work against cutter
rotation. If the bit is cutting on both
sides, feed the work so that the bit
pushes the work towards the fence (when
applicable).
9.
10.
Use slower speeds for larger bits.
11.
Do not overload or bog down the speed of the motor.
12.
Make several light cuts where large amounts of material are to be removed.
13.
Always make sure the bit is sharp; if unsure, check with the instructor.
14.
Always secure or clamp the work so that it cannot move during routing.
13 of 33
15.
When using multi-piece router bits, ensure all nuts and bearings are tightened
properly.
16.
Large panel-cutting bits should not be used in a hand-held router.
17.
Due to the physics of routing, dados and rabbets in solid wood are
best achieved using a table saw. Dados and rabbets in
manufactured material such as plywood, particle board, and MDF
are better achieved using a router.
Additional Table Router Safety
1.
Move the workpiece in the proper
direction. If only one side of the
bit is being used, move the work
against cutter rotation. If the bit is
cutting on both sides, feed the
work so that the bit pushes the
work towards the fence (when
applicable).
2.
Use slower router speeds for longer bits. This is
especially important at the router table, since large bits are more likely to be
used here.
3.
On the Bench Dog router lifts: Do not change router bits without
first removing the throat plate. When tightening the throat plate
attach screws, use only light finger pressure. Do not over-tighten
one throat plate screw before tightening the other; the tightness of
the first screw will prevent the throat place from being flush with
the table when you tighten the second screw.
4.
Use the throat plate that leaves the smallest opening around the router bit.
5.
When routing small or narrow pieces, use a backer board and/or
a pushstick to ensure proper support, along with a fence with a
small or no opening.
14 of 33
Drill Press
Most Likely Uses
1. Drilling Holes.
Drill Press Safety
1.
The procedure of changing spindle speed varies from drill press to drill
press. Check with your instructor prior to making speed adjustments.
2.
Be certain that the table and head of the drill press are secure.
3.
Select the proper drill bit for the job and avoid dull bits.
4.
Insert the drill bit in the chuck properly and tighten it securely before
starting the drill press.
5.
Remove the chuck key before turning on the power and before leaving the
area of the drill press. If the chuck key is not removed it will be thrown out
from the chuck at a tremendous speed when the power is turned on.
6.
Use clamps or a drill vise whenever necessary to secure small or odd shaped
work firmly.
7.
8.
Larger bits should be run at slower speeds and smaller bits at higher
speeds. This keeps the cutting edge of the bit at a reasonable speed.
Use a backer board under the work or be sure the bit is over the
center hole in the table when boring completely through your
work.
9.
Keep hands away from the rotating spindle.
10.
Operate the feed lever so that drill cuts at a consistent feed rate into work.
11.
Ease up on feed pressure when the bit begins to break through the work.
12.
Back the bit out often to clear chips from the hole.
13.
When boring to a given depth, use the depth adjustment nut or feature.
14.
Stop the drill press before removing your work.
15.
If work comes loose and is seized by the drill press, shut off the power
immediately if you can do so without endangering yourself. If it is
impossible to shut off the power, move away from the machine and
move others away. Notify the instructor immediately.
15 of 33
Planer
Most Likely Uses
1. Smooth lumber to an even thickness.
Planer Safety
1. Do not remove more than 1/32" of wood at one time.
2. Adjust the initial depth of cut to the thickest part of the board.
3. The stock must be longer than the distance between the in feed and
out feed rollers. The minimum length of stock for planing is
clearly marked on each planer.
4. Do not plane stock to less than 1/4" thick. To plane thinner stock, run it
through the planer with a backer board. For this special setup, obtain
additional instruction.
5. Never put your hands into the planer.
6. If a board needs to be realigned on the table after being gripped by the
cutterhead, use care to keep your fingers clear of the table and feed
rollers.
7. Never change depth of cut after stock has been started through the planer.
8. Do not plane stock with large cracks or loose knots.
9. Always plane wood with the grain, never across or perpendicular to the
grain; the planer will shred the wood.
10. Always ensure that the machine has reached full speed before inserting
the wood in the machine.
11. Plane pieces of varying thickness in progressive order, starting with the thickest
first.
12. Because of the possibility of flying particles, do not look into the planer
while the machine is running. Stand in an upright position and to one side
while you are operating this machine.
13. The maximum length of stock which can be surfaced or planed is
limited only by the location of walls and other equipment surrounding
the planer.
14. A planer will produce two flat, parallel faces only when the surface which was
put on the table was flat and smooth to begin with. Planing a warped board
16 of 33
will only produce a warped board of even thickness.
15. Kickbacks are infrequent but possible on a planer.
16. Never adjust the speed of the planer's feed rollers.
17. If the stock gets stuck in the planer, do the following, in this order:
•
•
•
•
Gently push the stock into the planer; do not overly force the material.
If that doesn't work, shift the stock at a slight angle while keeping your
fingers clear
of the table.
If that doesn't work, lower the table 1/8 turn of the adjustment wheel
and repeat steps a and b until the stock starts feeding again. If the stock
still will not proceed through the planer repeat steps a, b, and c until the
stock starts feeding again. Do not turn the wheel more than 1/8 turn at
a time; the feed rollers could lose contact with the stock and a kickback
could occur.
Note: Do not turn the power off while stock is in the planer; you
could damage the cutterhead.
Important Information About Planers
The planer is used to smooth lumber to an even thickness. After flattening
one side of a board on the jointer, the board is run through the planer with
the flat side down on the table, which supports the board and acts as a
reference surface. The cutterhead, located above the workpiece, then
smoothes the opposite face and makes it parallel to the jointed face. The
width of the cutterhead, which defines the size of a planer, indicates the
widest board that can be surfaced.
17 of 33
Disc and Disc/Belt (Combination) Sander
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
18 of 33
Portable Belt and Disc Sanders
Most Likely Uses
1. Sanding Pieces of Wood.
2. Making minor changes to the shape of a piece of wood.
Portable Belt and Disc Sander Safety
1.
Avoid excessive downward pressure on the belt sander. The weight of
the machine should be the only pressure necessary.
2.
Check to see that the belt or disc is in good condition and that the
proper grit paper is installed. 60- or 280-grit papers are good
choices for general use.
3.
Be sure the belt is tracking properly prior to use. The belt tracking
can be adjusted only while the machine is running.
4.
Allow the sander to reach full speed before placing it on the piece to be
sanded.
5.
Lift the sander off the work before stopping the motor and wait until it
is completely stopped before placing the sander on the bench.
6.
Do not use the sander to sand stock smaller than the platen.
7.
Use the sander in a consistent pattern and always keep it moving.
8.
Belts should always be installed with the arrow pointing in the direction of
motor rotation.
9.
The sanders should be used at full speed at all times.
10.
Always hold the piece to be sanded securely with a clamp or vise.
11.
Before plugging in the machine, make sure the trigger lock is
not engaged. Lay the machine on its side when inserting the
plug.
12.
Always use two hands when operating or carrying the machine.
13.
Do not use on Plexiglas, fiberglass, or printed circuit boards (PCBs).
19 of 33
Horizontal Slot Mortiser
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
20 of 33
Hollow Chisel Mortiser
Most Likely Uses
1. Making square holes in wood for mortises.
Hollow Chisel Mortiser Safety Rules
1.
You must be checked out on this machine before using it.Ensure the
chisel and drill bit are sharp prior to installation.
2.
The bit should be positioned about .O2O" below the chisel. This is
approximately the thickness of a non-flexible 6" scale, or a dime. The
spacing can be accomplished by installing the chisel with a .O2O" spacer
between the chisel shoulder and the upper bushing. Then, install the drill
bit with the bit tight against the mouth of the chisel; tighten the chuck.
Remove the .O2O" spacer, slide the chisel up tight against the bushing,
and tighten with the appropriate wrench. Ensure the chisel is square to
the fence when it is tightened.
When the machine is turned on, some squeaking is normal. It is caused by the
bit rubbing against the chisel. If the noise is excessive, check your setup.
3.
4.
If using the depth stop or other stops, make sure lock bolts are securely tightened.
5.
Ensure the work is securely clamped in place.
6.
Always use a backer board to prevent damage to the bit and minimize tear out
on through mortises.
7.
Do not cut more than about 1/2" deep at a time. Deeper cuts may result in the
chisel getting stuck in the workpiece. If a deeper cut is desired, make a 1/2"
cut, move the work piece over and make an overlapping cut of greater depth.
Continue this back-and-forth process until the desired depth is achieved.
8.
Harder woods will require shallower cuts and greater care in drilling.
9.
Do not apply excessive force. If excessive force is required, check your setup .
Important Information:
The hollow chisel mortiser is uniquely capable of making a square
hole. It does so by forcing a hollow, four-sided chisel into the
wood, and removing the encircled waste with a special drill bit.
Due to the forces involved, a lot of heat is generated. Setup of this
machine is critical; improper positioning of the chisel and bit can
ruin the tool or the workpiece.
21 of 33
21
15” Wide Belt Sander
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
22
22 of 33
Edge Sander
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
23 of 33
23
Pneumatic Nail Guns and Staplers
Most Likely Uses
1. Drive nails and staples quickly and efficiently.
2. Increase accuracy and reduce damage to finished work due to pounding
with a hammer.
Pneumatic Nail Gun and Stapler Safety
1.
Safety glasses must be worn when operating a nail gun or stapler.
24
2.
Always point the nail gun or stapler away from any person or body
parts.
3.
Except when ready to actuate the nail gun or stapler, keep your finger
off the trigger.
4.
Always disconnect the air supply when loading or
unloading the magazine, or when making adjustments.
5.
Ensure the nose guard is working properly. Nose guard must
be pressed against the work piece, depressing the nose guard.
6.
When operating the nail gun or stapler, make sure your hand
or other body parts are not in front of or to the side of the
fastener's intended path. Nails especially have been known to
hit hard objects, like knots or difficult grain, and shoot out the
side of a workpiece.
7.
Use extra caution when driving a fastener close to an edge
to prevent the fastener from splitting the work, flying
away, or hitting your hand.
8.
Do not attempt to angle a nail or staple into the work surface
more than about 10°; more than that may cause the fastener
to ricochet off the work.
9.
Pull the trigger lightly. A heavy pull may result in the gun driving
two nails.
10.
Before loading or unloading nails into the magazine, make
sure the magazine is completely empty, then load the
fasteners. Failure to do so may result in misfire, damage to
the tool, or a fastener too long for the job.
24 of 33
Lathe
Most Likely Uses
1. Making round or cylindrical shapes out of wood.
Its primary components are the bed, headstock, tailstock, and tool rest.
The work is rotated using a motor in the headstock; various tools are
used at the tool rest to shape the work. The tailstock is used to support
longer work at the opposite end of the bed. The lathe can be used to
make a variety of turned objects, including table or chair legs, spindles,
goblets, and bowls.
Lathe Safety
1.
Always wear a face shield and eye protection when operating the
lathe.
2.
Remove or fasten any loose clothing and roll sleeves above your
25 of 33
25
elbows. Tie long hair up and back.
3.
Be sure belt covers are in place and closed.
4.
Keep the floor where you are standing clear of chips to provide good
footing.
5.
Make sure the stock is free from checks, loose knots, or other defects.
6.
Make sure the stock is correctly mounted on the lathe.
7.
For faceplate turning, carefully select the screws used to secure the
work. The screws must be properly sized for the design; they must
not contact the cutting tools while you are working. Use a screw in
every hole provided in the faceplate.
8.
Make sure all screws are tight and check them occasionally.
9.
Clamp the tool rest holder and tool rest firmly.
Make adjustments to the tool rest only when the lathe is at a complete
stop.
11. Keep the tool rest as close as reasonably possible to the
stock by frequently stopping the lathe and adjusting the tool
rest.
10.
26
12.
Adjust the tool rest height so the cutting edge of the tool is
at or just below the center of the work piece.
13.
Before turning on the lathe, rotate the stock at least one full
revolution by hand to make sure it clears the tool rest and
all parts of the lathe.
14.
Always hold the turning tool firmly against the tool rest.
15.
Remove the tool rest when sanding, polishing, or finishing the
workpiece.
16.
Use a tailstock with a bearing center (live center) whenever possible.
17.
Adjust the tailstock center so that the point is firmly
embedded in the stock without impeding free rotation.
18.
Run the lathe at slow speed when beginning any turning
operation. When the stock is balanced and does not
vibrate the speed may be increased.
19.
If the lathe vibrates, it is running too fast or the stock is
not properly secured. Stop the lathe and correct the
problem.
26 of 33
20.
The speed selector on a variable speed lathe must be operated
only while the lathe is turning. A variable speed lathe does
not have a belt which is moved between different sized
pulleys to change the speed; it typically has a knob or handle
on the front that can be rotated.
21.
Stand to the side when starting the lathe.
22.
Keep your hands away from the stock while it is rotating.
23.
Keep your tools sharp since dull tools are harder to control
and leave a rough surface on the work.
24.
Stop the lathe to make measurements with calipers.
25.
When polishing use a small rag folded in a pad, not wrapped around
your finger.
26.
Sand and polish only on the underside of the work.
27.
A dust mask is recommended when sanding, especially with exotic or
spalted woods.
28.
Cut faceplate stock round on the band saw before mounting on the
faceplate.
29.
Allow glued stock or mounting blocks to cure at least 24 hours before
using.
30.
On faceplate turnings keep an accurate check on cutting
depth to avoid striking the mounting screws.
27 of 33
27
Shaper
CreatorSpace does not have this tool available at this time.
28
28 of 33
Hand Held Drills
Most Likely Uses
1. Drilling holes and driving screws
Hand Held Drill Safety
1. Select the correct drill or bit. Mount it securely to the full depth of the
chuck.
2. Either clamp a scrap piece under work to prevent splintering the
underside, or drill from both sides.
3. Stock to be drilled must be held in a stationary position so it
cannot be moved during the operation.
4. Connect the drill to a properly grounded outlet.
5. Turn on the switch for a moment to see if the bit is properly centered
and running true.
6. With the switch off, place the point of the bit in the punched layout
hole.
7. Hold the drill firmly in one or both hands and at the correct drilling
angle.
8. Turn on the switch and feed the drill into the work. The pressure
required will vary with the size of the drill and the kind of wood.
9. During the operation, keep the drill aligned with the direction of the
hole.
10. When drilling deep holes, especially with a twist drill, withdraw
the drill several times to clear the shavings.
11. Unplug corded drills when changing drill bits or drivers.
12. Always keep corded drill power cords away form the drill bit
13. Follow the same precautions and procedures as when drilling holes
with the drill press.
29 of 33
29
Circular Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Cutting plywood.
Kickback
Circular saw kickback occurs when the blade is pinched
causing the tool to be thrown up and out of the piece of wood
toward the operator. To avoid circular saw kickback:
• Always hold the saw firmly with both hands.
• Release the switch immediately if the blade binds or the
saw stalls.
• Never remove the saw from a cut while the blade is
rotating.
• Support large panels so they will not pinch the blade.
Circular Saw Safety
1. Stock must be supported in such a way that the kerf will not close
and bind the blade during the cut or at the end of the cut.
2. Thin materials should be supported on benches. Small pieces should
be clamped in a vise or onto a bench top or sawhorse.
3. Be careful not to cut into the bench, sawhorse, or other supporting
devices.
4. Adjust the depth of cut to the thickness of the stock, and add about 1/8
in.
5. Check the base and angle adjustment to be sure they are tight. Plug in
the cord to a grounded outlet and be sure it will not become fouled in
the work.
6. Always place the saw base on the stock, with the blade clear, before
turning on the switch.
7. During the cut, stand to one side of the cutting line.
8. Large saws will have two handles. Keep both hands on them
during the cutting operation. Small saws should also be guided with
both hands when possible.
9. Always unplug the machine to change blades or make major
adjustments.
10. Always use a sharp blade with plenty of set.
30
30 of 33
Scroll/Jig Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Making curved or irregular cuts in plywood.
2. Making holes in the interior of a piece of plywood.
Scroll/Jig Saw Safety
1. Be certain the blade is properly installed. It should be in a vertical
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
position with the teeth pointing down.
Roll the machine over by hand to see if there is clearance for the
blade, and if the tension sleeve has been properly set.
Check the belt guard to see that it is closed and tight.
Before cutting, adjust the drop foot to ride lightly on/just above the
surface of the work piece. Keep the hold-down adjusted so the
work will not be raised off the table.
When the saw is running, do not permit your fingers to get directly
in line with the blade. The work can usually be held on either side
of the cutting line.
Always keep power cord well away from the blade.
31 of 33
31
Saber Saw
Most Likely Uses
1. Making curved cuts in wood and PVC.
Saber Saw Safety
1. Make certain the saw is properly grounded through the electrical
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
32
cord.
Select the correct blade for your work and be sure it is properly
mounted.
Disconnect the saw to change blades or make adjustments.
Place the base of the saw firmly on the stock before starting the cut.
Turn on the motor before the blade contacts the work.
Do not attempt to cut curves so sharp that the blade will be
twisted. Follow procedures described for band saw operation.
Make certain the work is well supported. Do not cut into sawhorses
or other supports.
Always keep power cord well away from the blade.
32 of 33
Finishing Your Work
Finishing Safety
1. Wear safety glasses when applying finishing materials.
2. Wear rubber gloves, goggles, and rubber apron when applying
bleaches and acids. (Do you do this?)
3. Thinners and reducers such as naphtha, benzene, lacquer thinner, and
enamel reducer should be applied in a well-ventilated room. Fumes
have a toxic effect.(Do you do this?)
4. Store all chemicals and soiled rags in proper safe containers. Many
chemicals and rags are highly flammable.
5. Wear and approved respirator for finishing operations that involve the
use of toxic chemicals such as lacquer thinner and enamel reducer.
(Do you do this?)
6. Spraying should be performed in a well ventilated booth or outside to
reduce toxic fumes.
7. Do not smoke while sanding or applying a finish. Not only does
dust or vapor mixed with smoke create a hazard to your health, but it
may start a fire.
8. Wash you hands well after applying a finish in order to remove any
toxic materials that you have handled.
9. Know where the sink, shower, or eye wash station is located in the
event you are burned by a finishing material.
10. Provide an approved fire extinguisher in the finishing area.
11. Read all labels and KNOW what you are working with
33 of 33
33