BEER
BARS
ON
draught lines
summer 2016
SOUTH
STREET
Boozy
BEER
POPCICLES
ROB TOD
Allagash Brewing Company
draught lines
summer 2016
ON THE COVER: Rob Tod of Allagash Brewing Co.
12
8
15
16
contents
8 BEER BARS ON SOUTH STREET BY DANYA HENNINGER
12 HOT DOG! FRANKS AND BREWS FROM ACROSS AMERICA
15 THE BOOKSHELF QUENCH YOUR OWN THIRST: BUSINESS LESSONS LEARNED OVER A BEER OR TWO
BY JIM KOCH
16 ROB TOD OF ALLAGASH BREWING CO. GETS DRAUGHTED
Editor in Chief
Maryanne Origlio
Contributing Writer
Jessica Lawrence
Art Director/Photographer
Michael Kuchar
Senior Editor
Maureen McCoy
Art Director/Photographer
Loren Leggerie
Guest Writer
Danya Henninger
Guest Writer
Steve Hawk
Mark Your Calendars
A Few Words From The Editors...
Summerfest Live! | Philadelphia, PA
Dear Beer Aficionados,
July 16, 2016 – XFINITY Live!
It’s summertime and the impulse to enjoy life in the open
air is irresistible. For those of
us who live where the winters are cold, we’ll take the
outdoors any way we can, a
stolen moment on the tiniest apartment balcony, a trip
to the beach or a stroll down
South Street.
Summer Ale Festival | Philadelphia, PA
July 16, 2016 – Philadelphia Zoo
Newtown Beer Fest | Newtown Borough, PA
September 16, 2016 – The Stocking Works
For more information about these events, and others
visit our website:
www.origlio.com
For an electronic version of this publication, visit:
www.origlio.com
Like us on Facebook
facebook.com/draughtlines
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@draughtlinesmag
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@draughtlinesmag
Check us out on YouTube
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draught lines
is a publication of Origlio Beverage. All rights reserved.
3000 Meeting House Road, Philadelphia, PA 19154
But each of these relaxing
alfresco options can be improved. Just add beer.
That was the inspiration for
Danya Henninger’s story,
Beer Bars on South Street.
Taking in the sights on one of
Philadelphia’s most interesting streets is always fun. Knowing about
its history and reading about the people who make the area so unique,
adds to the experience. Who wouldn’t want to stop in at Percy Street
Barbeque where Elyssa Ramirez curates the beer selection for the casual
tippler and the die-hard craft fan? You might even want to ask her to
recommend a beer to go with Chef Erin O’Shea’s amazing brisket.
If you are interested in beer and art, this edition’s featured Hop Art
is 21st Amendment’s delicious, easy-drinking El Sully. The can may
be dressed in its own poncho, but the stuff on the outside belies the
amazing liquid inside. Brewmaster Shaun O’Sullivan’s latest creation
definitely belongs in your fridge. And staying with the art theme, we
spoke to a few tattoo artists whose work commemorates their client’s,
and their own, love of beer.
So you see, adding beer to any activity really does make a difference.
We hope your summer is filled with hoppiness.
Cheers,
The Draught Lines Editorial Staff
R
AVE
EVIEWS
Grilled
Corn
with Samuel Adams Summer Ale Butter
No summer barbeque is complete without corn on the
cob. Serve this grilled version at your next summer soirée
to quickly become the hostess with the mostess.
Ingredients
6 Tbsp. unsalted butter, softened
1 cup Samuel Adams Summer Ale
2 Tbsp. minced shallots
1 Tbsp. chili powder
1 Tbsp. smoked paprika
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 ears corn, shucked
Preparation
Prepare a charcoal or gas grill so that it is medium hot.
In a small bowl, mash the butter and add the beer. Stir
to mix the butter and beer, then add the shallots, chili
powder and paprika. Season with salt and pepper. Rub
the butter generously on the ears of corn. Wrap the ears
in aluminum foil. Grill the wrapped corn for about 15
minutes, or until the kernels are cooked through. Serve
immediately. Recipe serves 6.
-Recipe courtesy of samueladams.com
BEER
REDISCOVERED
Harpoon IPA
Kathy Prince
Origlio Beverage Sales Representative
Kathy Prince, sales rep for Origlio Beverage, had her first
taste of Harpoon IPA years ago at a party, where each
guest brought a different beer for all to sample. “After my
first sip, I remember thinking, ‘wow!’ From that night on,
it’s been my go-to beer,” she says.
First brewed in 1993 as a summer seasonal, Harpoon IPA
was so well loved that the Boston-based brewery began
making it year-round. And it’s no wonder. This copper-colored beer is a harmonious combination of hops,
malt and yeast. No single ingredient dominates. The
sturdy malt backbone provides depth of body and color,
which is balanced by a pleasantly hoppy finish.
Prince, a fan of IPAs, is drawn to Harpoon IPA because it’s
so easy-drinking. “This beer works well for almost any
beer-drinking occasion. Whether I enjoy one with dinner,
at a summer BBQ or out at a bar with friends, Harpoon
IPA fits the bill. It’s especially good with Mexican food.
The bitterness and floral/citrus characteristics really balance the spiciness.”
IPAs are so popular and abundant that many stellar pioneers get overlooked. Prince thinks that’s a shame.
“Nowadays people get caught up with the ‘newest thing’
and forget about the originals that started the whole craft
movement,” she says. “I respect Harpoon because they
have produced great beers for 30 years. And I am really enjoying their newest summer seasonal, Camp Wannamango.”
Harpoon IPA is such an iconic New England brew that
it was reporter Michael Rezendes’ beer of choice in the
Academy award-winning film, Spotlight, which is set in
Boston. Rezendes, played by actor Mark Ruffalo, relaxes
with a bottle of Harpoon’s flagship IPA. Why? The director wanted to portray authentic Boston. Just as “Lager”
in Philadelphia means Yuengling, "IPA" in Boston is Harpoon.
BEER BARS
ON SOUTH STREET
The bohemian vibe of philly's most eclectic street was nearly lost to highway
construction. beer-loving entrepreneurs saved the day and the vibe lives on.
By Danya Henninger
8
www.origlio.com
T
he eastern end of South Street is one of the most vibrant and
diverse neighborhoods in Philadelphia, and it’s been that
way for more than half a century. But the area’s Bohemian
charm was almost lost to history.
In the 1950s, long-established businesses were pushed out in advance of a never-built “Crosstown Expressway” that would have
replaced the small, independent stores and row homes with carfilled lanes of highway. But the threat of destruction ended up making the street stronger. Artists and musicians swooped in, turning
the area into a haven for alternative culture.
“South Street has always had a unique style,” says Robert Perry,
co-owner of Tattooed Mom, which opened there in 1997. “It’s always brought a really interesting mix of people through our doors
– people from all over the world, all over the region and all over
the city.”
On any given weekend nowadays, the crowds that roam the strip
range from stroller-pushing parents, texting teens and cheesesteak-seeking college kids to hip-hop show-goers. Young adults
on a date chuckle together about the sax-playing rollerblader as he
rolls by, and gray-haired bohemian artists nod in appreciation as
motorcycle and hot-rod drivers cruise the buzzing strip. And this
being Philadelphia, South Street also has a heck of a lot of great
beer.
Split Thy Skull is one of
the longest-running beer
celebrations in the city.
Tattooed Mom is one place to find it. “We might have a smaller
draught and bottle list than some places, but it’s thoughtful,” Perry
explains. Along with 10-year veteran beverage manager Todd Fisher, he tries to fill the 11 taps with “something for everyone,” from
tried-and-true Yuengling Lager to the newest Sierra Nevada twist
on IPA. Then there’s the annual barleywine festival. Called Split
Thy Skull, it’s one of the longest-running beer celebrations in the
city (it started at sister bar Sugar Mom’s 21 years ago), and features
dozens of special strong ales from all over the country.
No matter what you drink at Tmoms (as the bar is affectionately
known), there are snacks to go along, from pierogies to tater tots to
vegan delights. There’s also a candy dish on every table, which is
there for no other reason than it’s fun – kind of like the lime green
walls, zany murals and gold-painted bar top.
tattooed mom
530 South St., tattooedmomphilly.com
next to a businessman from Germany.”
Speaking of Germany, another South Street special is Brauhaus
Schmitz. The tavern is unique not only to the neighborhood, but
also to the Mid-Atlantic region, thanks to the quantity and diversity of its Teutonic beer offerings. Walk into the high-ceilinged,
wood-covered beer hall and you can choose from 30 taps of true,
imported-from-Deutschland brews, plus around 100 different bottles.
“There’s much more variation in German beer than most Americans realize,” says proprietor Doug Hagar, who was initially resistant to opening on South Street, but has grown to love and appreciate its big, eclectic crowds over the past seven years. “Even within
the Reinheitsgebot, it’s amazing what brewers can do with just four
ingredients.”
Double IPAs and peanut butter stouts are fun and interesting once
in a while,” he continues, “but German beer is so wonderfully balanced.”
Brauhaus introduces the good stuff to the masses several times a
year, when it hosts giant outdoor block parties that shut the street
to auto traffic in deference to beer, dancing, pretzels and brats. Food
A couple of blocks down the street, the walls at the Boyler Room
are a calm, dark green, but excitement comes from what’s pouring
on the taps. When Bill Boyle took over the former Blarney South
Bar & Grill four years ago, he assigned beer duties to GM Jolene
Cassell. Though she’s only 27, she has lots of beer tasting experience. “I thought I didn’t like beer,” she explains, “until I moved to
Philly and tasted good beer.”
Now her picks keep 20 taps at two bars rotating at a zippy pace.
“We do local when we can,” she says, “and always try to have a variety – IPAs, a sweeter Belgian, some kind of sour, gose or Berliner.”
Classic domestics like Coors are available in bottles and sell well,
but put together, the crafts beat them in volume – especially during
the daily 6 to 8 PM happy hour, when all draughts are $2 off.
Cassell appreciates variety in her clientele as much as she appreciates it in beer. “There’s a nice vibrancy to the street – people from
all walks of life come here,” she says. “In the bar you’ll find a triedand-true South Street regular sitting next to an art student, sitting
the boyler room
328 South St., theboylerroom.com
www.origlio.com
9
comes via chef Jeremy Nolen, who’s made a name for himself in
the style – he’s the co-author of a book called New German Cooking.
Food is also a huge draw at Percy Street Barbecue. Part of the
CookNSolo family of restaurants (along with Zahav, Dizengoff,
Abe Fisher and Federal Donuts), this Texas-inspired ‘cue joint is
run by chef Erin O’Shea. Her brisket is unparalleled in the city, and
her biscuits are flaky and buttery enough to melt any Southerner’s
heart.
But beer is just as much a part of Percy Street’s identity as eats.
When it opened in 2009, it was one of the first bars to embrace
craft cans – and it still eschews bottles, backing up its half-dozen
draughts with more than 100 canned labels. The array of options
has been called the largest craft can collection in the U.S.
“There’s a nice vibrancy to
the street – people from all
walks of life come here.”
brauhaus schmitz
718 South St., brauhausschmitz.com
Elyssa Ramirez is in charge of bolstering the selection, and she
makes sure to keep the coolers stocked with brews “for beer-drinkers and non-beer drinkers alike,” from American classics like Shiner to brash local favorites like Sly Fox Odyssey Imperial IPA.
“South Street is a historic thoroughfare, constantly re-inventing itself,” Ramirez says about her neighborhood. “And there’s certainly
no shortage of hot spots!”
One of the newest to join the community is MilkBoy. The bi-level
bar at Fourth and South is a sibling to a similar venture on 11th and
Chestnut, both of which grew out of a former Ardmore recording
studio. Yes, there’s lots of great live music – a good complement to
the scratch-made American bar food and varied selection of beer.
“I grew up in Atlantic City, and I used to come hang out here in the
early ‘90s. It’s the quintessential Philly street,” says co-owner Bill
Hansen of his decision to transform the former Lickety Split into a
MilkBoy outpost.
“We’re a Philly brand, focusing on Philly beers,” he continues, explaining that all six taps will pour local products, including one
always on nitro, “so it’s really a perfect match.”
Percy Street Barbecue
900 South St., percystreet.com
Nearly three dozen cans complement the taps, which pour both
upstairs and down. While Hansen views the ground floor as great
for visitors and tourists, he sees the second level as a haven for
locals.
“We’ve got live music five nights a week, and we try not to charge
a cover,” he says. “Like with our beers – we look for quality, but
definitely don’t price gouge – the music shows are cool but not
intimidating. I am seriously stoked to be on South Street."
Each decade brings new trends. Shops and restaurants come and
go, but one thing remains the same on South Street: just about all
of the storefronts are run by local entrepreneurs who are authentic
characters in their own right. It’s a quirky street, and that’s why it
thrives.
milkboy
401 South St., milkboyphilly.com
Headshots by Danya Henninger
DRINKTHESE
NOW
Fruit-Infused Faves
Dogfish Head Festina Pȇche
Shiner Strawberry Blonde
Abita Blueberry Wheat
Woodchuck June and Juice
Unibroue Éphémère Blueberry
Hoppy Highlights
Sixpoint Puff
Evil Genius O’Doyle Rules
Lagunitas Born Yesterday Fresh Hop Ale
Port Brewing Hop-15 Ale
Great Lakes Lake Erie Monster
Barrel-Aged Beauties
Heavy Seas Red Sky at Morning
Samuel Smith’s Yorkshire Stingo
Quintessential Quenchers
Narragansett Summertime Citra Ale
Sly Fox Grisette Summer Ale
Cape May Summer Catch
Celebratory Selections
Coronado 20th Anniversary Imperial IPA
Weyerbacher 21
Allagash Fluxus 2016
Harpoon Ale 2016
For a Good Cause
Green Flash Treasure Chest
Wonderful Wheats
Straub Hefeweizen
Alpine Willy Vanilly
Hot Dog!
Celebrate National Hot Dog Month with
Franks and Brews From Across America
July is National Hot Dog Month. But depending on where you eat your dog, the toppings differ
greatly and go way beyond ketchup and mustard.
PENNSYLVANIA
Loaded with bacon and lots of cheese, the Texas Tommy was first served at The Cup, a
casual dining spot in Pottstown, PA that closed years ago.
Pair with: Weyerbacher Blithering Idiot
This hearty ale stands up to rich foods and pairs well with smothered meat dishes and a variety of
cheeses. Enjoyed with a Texas Tommy, it’s a match made in hot dog heaven.
NEW YORK
The first ever hot dog stand opened on Coney Island in 1916. New Yorkers eat more hot
dogs than folks in any other part of the country, but oddly enough, the Coney Dog is most
popular in the Midwest. Apparently, New Yorkers enjoy their dogs simply dressed with
sauerkraut and brown mustard. The Coney dog is topped with all-meat beanless chili,
diced white onions, shredded cheddar cheese and yellow mustard.
Pair with: Coney Island Hard Root Beer…duh.
12
CHICAGO
The first Chicago-style franks were sold during the Great Depression for a nickel. These
all-beef franks, served in a poppy seed bun are topped with yellow mustard, relish,
chopped raw onion, tomato slices, sport peppers (spicy pickled green peppers), a pickle
spear and a dash of celery salt.
Pair with: Lagunitas A Little Sumpin’ Sumpin’ Ale
Smooth and silky, this hoppy, pale wheat ale won’t overpower all the flavors going on and it tames
the spiciness of the sport peppers.
CALIFORNIA
The official Cali frank is the Tijuana dog, which is wrapped in bacon and topped with a
combination of Mexican and American ingredients including: grilled jalapeno peppers,
pineapple, Pico de Gallo, avocado, cheese and mayonnaise or crema (Mexican creme
fraiche). Legend has it that the first bacon-wrapped dog was created by two Americans
who had a concession stand at a bull fighting ring in Mexico City.
Pair with: 21st Amendment El Sully
This refreshing and bright Mexican-style lager is brewed with pilsner and Vienna malts, flaked
maize and Mexican lager yeast. Need we say more?
CLEVELAND
Polish Boys, made with either kielbasa or a hot dog, are a staple of Cleveland cuisine. This
unique dog consists of a mashup of toppings. Nestled in a substantial bun, it’s covered
with French fries, barbecue sauce and coleslaw. Seti's food truck in Cleveland, which serves
world-famous Polish Boys, was featured on the Food Network's, The Best Thing I Ever Ate,
hosted by Cleveland native and Iron Chef, Michael Symon.
Pair with: Great Lakes Eliot Ness
A great partner to any hot dog, this smooth and malty amber lager pairs well with smoked meats and
hearty bread.
NEW JERSEY
Of all the hot dogs served in New Jersey, the most creative is the Italian Dog. This fried
wiener, served on a pizza dough roll (native to New Jersey, and unheard of in any other
state), is topped with sliced, deep-fried seasoned potatoes, sautéed peppers and onions.
This hot dog with an Italian twist was created in 1932 by James "Bluff" Racioppi, founder
of the famous Jimmy Buff's hot dog eatery in Newark, NJ.
Pair with: Forgotten Boardwalk Funnel Cake or Cape May IPA
RHODE ISLAND
The dog native to Rhode Island is the New York System Wiener, a meat on meat masterpiece. Served in a steamed bun, this frank is dressed with seasoned meat sauce, mustard, chopped onion and celery salt. These delicious dogs are a staple at the famous
Providence eatery, Olneyville NY System, which was featured on the Food Network’s,
Diners, Drive-ins and Dives with Guy Fieri. Why is a hot dog, famous in Rhode Island,
called a New York System wiener? In the 1930s, hot dogs were all the rage on Coney
Island, so Rhode Islanders hoped the name would drum up more business.
Pair with: Narragansett Lager or Del’s Shandy
www.origlio.com
13
HOP ART
The spirit of Mexico is never far away for Brewmaster Shaun O’Sullivan, co-founder of 21st Amendment
Brewery. O’Sullivan, Sully to his friends, spent his
younger carefree years in Southern California, surfing
and skateboarding. When the sun set, he would head to
the local Mexican restaurant for a plate of carne asada
and a Tecate, Pacifico or Modelo. El Sully is the beer that
Irish-blooded O’Sullivan created to pay homage to that
time in his life. Still a fun-loving guy, he mashed up his
nick name with the Spanish pronoun "El". Viva El Sully!
El Sully’s super-cool Mexi-can was created by Victor
Melendez, a graphic designer originally from Mexico
City. He created the Mexican-inspired font and dressed
the can in a colorfully striped poncho. It’s fun and “pays
respect to our neighbors to the south,” says O’Sullivan.
“The bright colors really stand out and exemplify what
this beer is all about.”
The beer itself? Fantastico! Straw-colored with tight,
white bubbles, El Sully is crisp and light-bodied with
a touch of hoppiness. The easy-drinking 4.8% lager is
brewed with pilsner and Vienna malts, flaked maize
and Mexican lager yeast. “It's what other Mexican
lagers dream of when they go to bed at night.” says
O’Sullivan. “It's fantastic and refreshing. El Sully is perfect when you don't want a big IPA, rather something
more accessible. I love IPAs, but sometimes you want
a beer you can enjoy ice cold, in the summer sun, with
your amigos. This is that beer.”
Lime or no lime? O’Sullivan says, “Go for it!”
Dress your El Sully can in its
very own poncho, available
for download at
21st-amendment.com.
TB
the bookshelf
QUENCH YOUR
OWN THIRST
A BOOK BY JIM KOCH, THE
FOUNDER AND BREWER OF
SAMUEL ADAMS
Let me guess… the best lessons you ever learned
about life, your career or the pursuit of happiness
didn’t come from a text book. Maybe you had
a conversation with your favorite uncle or best
friend, and from that discussion a few pearls of
wisdom just stuck with you. You were also probably drinking a beer, enjoying the conversation
and reveling in the camaraderie.
That is the feeling you get when reading the new book written by
an incredibly talented brewer named Jim Koch. He happens to be
the founder of The Boston Beer Company, maker of Sam Adams.
Koch’s book, Quench Your Own Thirst: Business Lessons Learned
over a Beer or Two can be found in the business section of a
bookstore. While it is a chronicle of the leadership lessons he
learned while building The Boston Beer Company – with lots of
insights and funny anecdotes – his book is really a light-hearted
autobiography.
In the book’s first chapter, “Blow it Up”, Koch confronts the
one thing that stymies many would-be entrepreneurs: fear of
failure. He credits his father, whose personal mantra was “every problem has a solution", for teaching him by example that
taking risks in pursuit of financial and personal fulfillment is
OK. Jim Koch did exactly that. In 1984, he left a lucrative job as
a business consultant for a career brewing beer. “Doing something you love isn’t the only reason to start a new life," he says.
"You could also do it to find out what you love.”
That is about as touchy-feely as Quench Your Own Thirst ever
gets. Jim Koch is known for his quick wit and irreverent sense
of humor. And while the book is full of great business advice,
it is a quick read because Koch tells such a good story: like the
one about the marketing agency that suggested he call his beer
Sacred Cod. Then later on in the book, chapters with the titles
“Take the Giant Turds in Stride” and “Welcome the Dude with
the Gold-Painted Toenails” keep it light, yet still manage to
impart some valuable management know-how. Not to leave
you hanging, the turd was a “parting gift” from a disgruntled
employee. Hint: Never fire someone without asking for the
return of the office keys. And the dude with the nail polish?
That’s Alan Newman, mega-successful serial entrepreneur
who founded the Vermont craft brewery Magic Hat. The takeaway from that chapter; creative and successful business people don’t have to wear a three piece suit. Koch enlisted Newman to head an experimental brewery called The Traveler Beer
Company, which makes shandys. Traveler's tap handle boasts a
handle-bar mustache with a top hat on it. You can't miss it. Try
it next time you're out.
Quench Your Own Thirst is an entertaining must-read for anyone who wants to start a business. And in this season of graduations, consider giving it as a gift. It just might inspire a recent
graduate to find the solution to a different problem. Or as Koch
puts it, “You don’t climb a mountain to get to the middle.”
Available at bookstores and online for $27.99, profits from the
sale of Quench Your Own Thirst will be donated to fund small
business microloans through Samuel Adams’ philanthropic
program, Brewing the American Dream, which provides coaching/mentoring and microloans to up-and-coming food and
beverage businesses and craft brewers.
Another lesson from Koch, always give back.
www.origlio.com
15
gets draughted
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www.origlio.com
ROB TOD
Allagash Brewing Company
Rob Tod, founder of Maine's Allagash Brewing Co., popularized Belgian
beer styles at a time when Americans were all about light, German-style
lagers.
Since the brewery’s first batch of Allagash White, produced in 1995, Tod has
gone on to become one of the most recognized and admired brewers in the
country.
www.origlio.com
17
Tod, an avid traveler, sampled many unique Belgian ales and he made it his
life's work to share these flavors with American drinkers. Tod assembled a small
15-barrel brewhouse with used equipment and began his quest to produce Belgian-style beers with an American craft brewer’s spin.
D.L. You took a big chance two decades ago, creating Belgian-style
brews for the American drinker. Why did you take the risk?
R.T. When I started, I was on a shoestring budget and planned to
build the brewery myself over a long period of time to save money.
I figured if I was going to spend a year building a brewery by myself and possibly a lifetime running it, I didn’t feel like it would be
as fulfilling to make beers similar to those currently being made. I
looked at the Belgian brewing tradition as an opportunity to give
people unique experiences with beer that they’d likely never had
before.
gets draughted
D.L. You have called two of your barrel-aged beers, Curieux and
Interlude “happy accidents”. Can you explain?
R.T. As a Belgian-inspired brewery, we’ve always been open to
new approaches to making beer.
A dozen years ago, we only packaged our Tripel in 750ml bottles
imported from Europe. When we had a shipment of bottles delayed in customs, we ended up with a bunch of Tripel that didn’t
have a home, so we decided to put it in Jim Beam bourbon barrels
that we had recently acquired for barrel-aging experiments. We
were blown away by the way the beer had transformed in just a
few days. We absolutely fell in love with the flavors.
A couple years later, we were brewing a beer that was a high-gravity, loose interpretation of a saison. As is commonly the case with
saison fermentations, our saison yeast slowed down and nearly
stopped halfway through the fermentation. After a couple months
of waiting for fermentation to resume, we almost gave up on the
beer. No sooner had we made this decision, fermentation immediately and unexpectedly resumed. When we tasted the beer, we
noticed a subtle, but very pleasant, fruity Brettanomyces character.
Apparently, local Portland Maine Brett yeast had made its way into
the beer and finished fermentation for us. To make a long story
short, after the beer finished fermentation, we aged half of it in
French oak red wine barrels and half in stainless steel, and blended
the two. The result is Interlude.
D.L. Your sour beers have become quite popular. Do you see this
style staying around for a while or do you think it’s a craze that
will pass?
R.T. I absolutely think it will stick around for a while. Sours may
never reach a level of popularity that results in a substantial market share for the segment, but once people discover the uniqueness
and complexity of a well-brewed beer that uses wild yeasts and
bacteria as a component of fermentation, their perspective on beer
is permanently changed.
D.L. Your Coolship beers, crafted using a traditional Belgian method of spontaneous fermentation, have been very well received.
What’s in the works? Will you continue to release new sours?
R.T. We’ve been making these beers since 2007 – a short time compared to the decades and even centuries that some Belgian breweries have been making them. Although we feel that we’ve learned
18
www.origlio.com
a lot over the last nine years and have refined our spontaneous
brewing craft, we feel that there is plenty for us to learn with the
Resurgam, Red and Cerise. We’re going to focus on continuing to
refine these three core beers we brew in the coolship.
D.L. What changes have you had to make to the brewery in order
to brew sour beers?
R.T. We’ve had to take a lot of steps to make sure that nearly every
piece of equipment that we use to create the sours is used exclusively for those beers. In addition, we’ve created separate cellar
spaces in order to ferment these beers and a separate bottling line
to package them. Of course these beers are made possible by a lot
of microbes like Brettanomyces, Lactobacillus and Pediococcus,
but we take every precaution available to ensure they stay out of
our core beers so that we can maintain our quality and consistency.
D.L. Experimentation has always been a huge part of the culture
at Allagash. Which of your latest innovations would you suggest
drinkers try?
R.T. Little Brett. Not only does this beer go along with our tradition of giving people new experiences with beer because it’s unlike
anything we’ve ever brewed before, but it is a beer fermented exclusively with the Brett yeast we discovered when we first made
Interlude. It’s a yeast that truly has origins in Portland. Little Brett
is a beer that’s a completely new, unique experience for Allagash
Brewing.
D.L. Do trends ever influence what you brew?
R.T. Since day one, we’ve always been motivated to offer drinkers, and ourselves as brewers, unique experiences with beer – with
aroma, with flavor, with food pairing. We are absolutely not driven
by “trends”. We’re fulfilled by brewing beers we love and sharing
them with people who love beer.
D.L. Your Tribute Series of Beers (Fluxus, Hugh Malone, Victor and
Victoria) is a way for you to give back to your community. Why is
that important to you?
R.T. Community is one of our core values. When I was considering
names for the brewery, I thought it was important that I come up
with a name that resonated with Mainers – I knew our beers would
be brewed in Maine, by Mainers and the local community would
be extremely important to us in supporting the brewery in making
it sustainable. It’s always been very important for us to give back
to the community that has been so supportive of us over the years.
D.L. Your newest year-round release, Sixteen Counties is named to
honor the rich tradition of farming in the sixteen counties of Maine.
Can you tell us a bit more about the beer and where a portion of
the proceeds will go?
R.T. We have been using ingredients from local farms dating back
nearly a decade – the strawberries, cherries, plums, raspberries,
pumpkins and blueberries in our wild fruit beers all come from
Maine. The quality of Maine-grown malts for brewing has been
steadily improving and we’re excited to be able to showcase these
farms in a beer. We’re proud to donate a portion of the proceeds
from the sale of Sixteen Counties to help support organizations
focused on sustainable agriculture and family farming in Maine.
D.L. Where is your favorite place to travel? For inspiration? For
fun?
R.T. Belgium. In fact, for employees who have been at the brewery
for five years, we have an annual trip to Belgium where we immerse ourselves in Belgian beer and brewing culture so that they
can experience what I enjoy when I’m there.
D.L. You were recently appointed Chair of the Brewers Association
Board of Directors. What does this job entail and how will your knowledge of running a brewery help in this new role?
R.T. I have a ton of passion for the movement that craft brewers
and drinkers have created. There are breweries in nearly every
community in this country and there is a tremendous amount of
energy that is swirling around this movement. I am very much
looking forward to continuing working towards the BA’s mission
to promote and protect craft brewers both small and large.
Allagash Brewery
D.L. What keeps you motivated after all of these years?
R.T. I’m more motivated today than ever. I can’t wait to get to work
in the morning – I’m so energized by spending time around everyone at the brewery. They’re like a second family to me.
D.L. Which beer are you most looking forward to enjoying this
summer?
Golden Brett Foudre
R.T. Allagash White. It’s the first beer we brewed and by default
has become our flagship. We sell more of it than any other. Despite
the fact that we’ve been brewing it for 20+ years, I feel like I love
it more than ever before. It was always meant to be refreshing and
balanced and I’m still getting new experiences from this beer when
I drink it in different settings and pair it with different foods. The
first thing I did when I got home last night was open an Allagash
White – and I guarantee it’s the first thing I’ll do when I finish work
again tonight.
D.L. Most people don’t know that you have a degree in geology.
What changed your career path?
R.T. A couple of years after college, I was considering going back
to school to get my master’s degree in geology in hopes of becoming a professor. While going through the application process, I got
a job washing kegs at a local brewery. I fell in love with the beer
business after two days on the job.
Curieux Room
Steam Rolling Off the Coolship
Photos by: Mat Trogner/Allagash Brewing Company
www.origlio.com
19
BOOZY
BEER
POPSICLES
Hard Root Beer Float Popsicles
Ingredients
Preparation
• 1 cup heavy cream
Fill popsicle molds 1/3 full with hard root beer and freeze for 30
minutes. In the meantime, in a heavy saucepan, heat the milk and
cream until they simmer. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolks,
sugar, vanilla and salt until double in size and light in color. Pour
half of simmering milk mixture into yolk mixture and whisk until
smooth. Pour mixture back into saucepan and place over medium heat. Cook 1-2 minutes until mixture thickens (make sure it
doesn’t boil). Remove from heat, pour into bowl and let cool in an
ice bath. Add custard to popsicle molds until 2/3 full, add popsicle sticks and freeze for 30 minutes. Remove from freezer, top off
with remaining hard root beer. Place back in freezer until solid.
• 1 cup whole milk
• 4 large egg yolks
• 1/3 cup sugar
• 2 cups Coney Island Hard Root Beer
• 1 tsp. vanilla
• Pinch of salt
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www.origlio.com
-Recipe adaptation courtesy of jacquelynclark.com
Beer popsicles are a refreshing adult treat that give a whole new meaning
to the term “cold one.” Try these recipes, featuring some of the season’s
hottest beers, or grab your favorite brew and create a frosty treat of your
own!
Hard Blueberry Lemon Popsicles
Ingredients
Preparation
• 2 cups 1911 Hard Blueberry Cider
Mix cider and lemon juice. Pour into molds,
add blueberries and popsicle sticks and freeze.
• 1/2 cup lemon juice
• Handful of blueberries
Del’s Citrus Popsicles
Ingredients
Preparation
• 1 cup Narragansett Del’s Shandy
Mix ingredients together. Pour into molds, add
popsicle sticks and freeze.
• 1 cup UFO Big Squeeze
Watermelon & Mint Popsicles
Ingredients
Preparation
• 2 cups watermelon cubed
Blend watermelon, mint and lemon juice until
smooth. Add beer to mixture. Pour into molds.
Add popsicle sticks and freeze.
• 1 Tbsp. chopped mint
• Lemon juice (one squeeze)
• 1/2 cup 21st Amendment Hell or High
Watermelon
• 1 Tbsp. simple syrup (optional depending on
how sweet the watermelon is)
www.origlio.com
21
BEER
BYOB
FINDS
A PLACE
AT THE
TABLE
Khao Poon with Singha at Stock
Philadelphia boasts more BYOs than any other U.S. metropolis. But why in the City
of Brotherly Suds do so many wrestle with which wine to bring when there’s an easier
solution... Bring Beer Instead.
I
By Danya Henninger
n past decades, asking a server to pop a bottle cap instead of
a cork might have come with a stigma. Not anymore. As American beer styles have matured and proliferated, restaurants all
over the region have become increasingly receptive to customers
who pull out a few brews to enjoy with their meal. Whether it’s
limited-edition bombers that’ve been aging in a cellar or a simple
mixed-six plucked from the corner bottle shop on the way, chefs
nod their approval – and some even say it works better with their
menu than wine.
“It’s really, really hard to pair Southeast Asian flavors with wine,”
says Tyler Akin, chef and co-owner of Stock on Girard Avenue.
“Beer is much easier.”
Customers who frequent his petite Fishtown noodle bar carry in
beer more often than not, he says, and Akin fully approves – although he advises against getting too fancy. “Most of these dishes
are very complicated, with layers and layers of flavor. There’s acid,
sugar, spices, herbs – it would be a disservice to have a beer that’s
complex in any degree.”
One of Akin’s signature dishes, and the one he’s most proud of, is a
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www.origlio.com
spicy Laotian soup called khao poon. Built atop a rich chicken broth
soothed with coconut milk, the giant bowl overflows with rice noodles laced with green and red curries, Thai chile and ginger-like
galangal. That mound is then decorated with bouquets of cilantro, mint, basil, cabbage and long beans, plus a final sprinkling of
peanuts. Each slurp presents a different sensational combination of
flavors, so what’s needed to offset them is really something like a
palate cleanser. Singha pale lager to the rescue.
In a hat tip to how the beer might be served in its home country
of Thailand, the chef recommends pouring the clear, simple beer
over ice. “Unless you’re in a big city, refrigeration is at a premium
– saved for expensive produce or meat,” he explains. “So beer is
rarely stored in a fridge.”
Chefs nod their approval. Some say beer works
better with their menu than wine.
The alternative to pairings that play up a contrast – simple beer
with complicated dishes, complex beer with simple ones – is to
create synergy with complimentary flavors.
To Brandon Thomas, sous-chef at Russet, that’s the easier route.
Though the menu changes daily at the Center City bistro, depending on what meats and vegetables farmers deliver, one of Thomas’ favorites is the lamb shoulder slow-roasted in hay and whey.
Served with spelt polenta, hay-roasted baby carrots, slow-roasted
onions, garlic mustard greens
and salt-and-pepper walnuts,
the dish is full of sweet, grassy,
earthy flavors.
“The sandwich started as something the staff made to eat ourselves,” he says, “but then we decided it was too good not to put
on the menu.” What’s between the bun? A pile of saucy housemade sloppy joe, grilled onion, raw red onion, fries, sliced rib-eye,
Whiz and spicy “SpOt sauce.” It makes for an unwieldy mouthful,
but is worth every messy bite.
“You naturally want something
that goes along that line, with
lots of grassy flavors,” Thomas
says. That could be interpreted
as a farmhouse ale or saison, but
even then its spice might end up
overbearing. A great match? The
dark, malty richness of an amber lager like Shiner Bock.
In general, Thomas embraces
the “drink what you like” philosophy. To the refined setting
of Russet, he says, customers
bring beer around 30 percent of
the time, versus 70 percent for
wine – although that ratio was
flipped on its head during the Craft Brewers Conference, when all
the brewmasters in town toted their own goods to dinner.
“Beer still has kind of a blue-collar reputation, but that’s changing,”
he says. He tells a story of when he brought an oak-aged Flemish
ale to Will BYOB on East Passyunk and endured the teasing of a
fellow diner – until that gentleman tried a sip. “Oh,” gasped the
naysayer. “Yes, that goes perfectly with my steak.”
“I would recommend Dogfish 60 Minute IPA for our
smoked salmon.” - Chef Chip Roman, Blackfish
Beer and burgers, on the other hand, is a match-up just about anyone would toast. The truism plays out in real time at SpOt Gourmet Burgers in Brewerytown.
The "Jawn" with Sierra Nevada Pale Ale at SpOt Gourmet Burgers
“We’ve had people walk in with wine and glasses, but most of the
time it’s growlers and six-packs,” says chef-owner Josh Kim. The
kitchen behind the counter at his bright red-and-yellow spot churns
out an average of 120 beef patties a day, but he considers his signature dish something different. It’s called “the Jawn,” and it’s a
serious flavor bomb.
Koniijn in je zuur with Lagunitas Brown Shugga' at Noord
“This is a very, very savory sandwich and there are so many parts
to it,” Kim says, “You need something very crisp to wash it down.
A lager won’t cut it – you need hops and a touch of bitterness.” He
turns to a classic: Sierra Nevada Pale Ale.
On the spectrum of California ales, Lagunitas Brown Shugga' is about
as far away from a Sierra Pale as it gets – but it turns out the barleywine makes a splendid partner for the rich, unctuous stews featured at Joncarl Lachman’s Noord. Guests often tote beer to the East
Passyunk restaurant, Lachman notes, because they somehow imagine
its Dutch and Scandinavian cuisine is similar to German food. “It’s a
little insulting,” says the chef, “but at least they are coming!”
Although Lachman is an admitted “wine-o” (his terminology), he
fully appreciates how Brown Shugga' enhances and augments the
deep, smoky taste that effuses from Noord’s signature koniijn in je
zuur. Made with vinegar-braised rabbit leg in a thick swirl of turnips,
cabbage and coins of smoked sausage, the dish is equal parts exotic
and comfortable, and the sweet, thick Lagunitas ale follows happily
down both paths.
At Blackfish in Conshohocken, just about all of the
dishes are lighter than that –
fresh seafood is the specialty
– but a dark beer pairing can
still work, says chef-owner
Chip Roman. “I would recommend Dogfish 60 Minute
IPA for our smoked salmon,”
he says, eagerly highlighting a breakfast-for-dinner
favorite that sees Scottish
salmon plated with a crispy
hen egg, potatoes and sour
cream. “Other first courses
like crudo and oyster want a
lighter style, but for the entrees, which have rich sauces, a bourbon-barrel-aged
barleywine is a good bet. And for the surf and turf, a porter or
stout is the way to go,” he adds.
Do visitors to his elegant suburban dining room really bring beer?
“Absolutely,” says the chef. “Beer is a great pairing, so why not?”
Photos by: Danya Henninger
www.origlio.com
23
Wearing
Their Hearts
on Their Sleeves
F
rom a brewery’s perspective, what more
could you want from a loyal customer than
to have your logo permanently inked on a
fan’s skin? Few breweries know brand
loyalty quite like Yuengling. The brewery’s
marketing coordinator Stephanie Hemmann says,
“We have a bunch of die-hard fans that have tattooed themselves with our logos!” It’s obvious that
there are few things aficionados of America’s Oldest Brewery won’t do.
The founder of Dogfish Head Brewery in Milton,
Delaware credits DFH-tattooed drinkers with much
of the brewery’s success. In his newest book,
Off-Centered Leadership: The Dogfish Head Guide to
Motivation, Collaboration & Smart Growth, Sam Calagione reveals, “Through the years I have met, personally thanked and high-fived tens of thousands
of hardcore Dogfish fans who have acted as our
own evangelists, introducing their friends to our
beers, showing fierce loyalty to the brand with their
Dogfish tattoos.”
Nashville-based tattoo artist and former Origlio
Beverage employee Katelyn Irvine has experience
on both sides of the tattoo gun when it comes to
beer tattoos. “I have three beer-themed tattoos. Several have been done while drinking beer. The first
one was the Yuengling eagle on my thigh. It was my
favorite beer at the time and because I’m from Philadelphia, the brewery’s Pennsylvania heritage was
important to me. The vintage Shiner Bock ram went
right above the eagle not too long after that. I had
just begun branching out into craft beer and was
drawn to the Shiner Bock logo. Below both tattoos
and capping my knee, I have a branch of outlined
hops that I sporadically drew and tattooed on myself one day.” Irvine’s customers who come to the
shop for beer-related tattoos are often involved in
the beer industry in some way or have a real love
for beer. Katelyn says she lucks out when these
clients come in because they often recommend or
bring her new beer to try. “It’s always nice to be
able to bond over something, especially beer.”
From waiting in ridiculously long lines for
limited releases to “smuggling” beer across
state lines, there are few things passionate
beer drinkers won’t do. But the most devout drinkers wear their hearts on their
sleeves, literally, in the form of beer tattoos.
24
www.origlio.com
Another tattoo artist, Jimmy Maria, out of Reading,
PA, has done his share of beer-themed tattoos as well.
“In my experience, people who care about beer enough
to get a beer tattoo are usually more interested in
beer as a hobby or a passion [extending] beyond a
single brewery. The ideas people have for their beer
tattoos have been pretty broad – from beer references in songs or movies, to tattoos about the history
or discipline of brewing.” He notes that while the
only beer logo tattoos he has done have been those
of classic American brands, he expects his clients
to request more diverse logos as the list of successful breweries continues to grow. But no matter the
subject of the tattoo, Maria feels that brewing and
tattooing are more similar than they are different.
“Each of the disciplines is filled with people who
are passionate about contributing their own artistic
spin on traditional ways of approaching their craft.
Whether it be achieving the crisp, solid lines and
smooth shading of a tattoo or the crisp mouth feel
and smooth finish of your favorite brew, the attention to detail and craftsmanship are what makes the
best brewers and tattooers shine!”
Tattoo artist Jimmy Maria creates a pint and hops tattoo
www.origlio.com
25
Wish
You
Were
“Beer”
A close-up look at local beer-centric vacations
by Steve Hawk
26
www.origlio.com
Dogfish Head Brewery
If you’re a beer lover, there’s nothing better
than a vacation that includes a great brewery.
One way to “beerify” your vacation, is simply to
go where the beer is.
A couple hours’ drive will bring you to a brewery that’s just a stone’s throw from the beach.
Cape May Brewery opened in July 2011 after the owners realized there just wasn’t enough locally made craft
beer in this beautiful resort town. Ryan Krill, his father
Bob and Chris Henke decided to open a microbrewery
to provide South Jersey with fresh, delicious, local beer
and “help put New Jersey on the map as a craft beer
state.” They opened their brewery at the Cape May
Airport and began delivering their signature Cape May
IPA to bars on and around the Jersey Shore as far north
as Asbury Park. Cape May brews more than 100 beer
styles. Their signature offerings include Devil’s Reach, a
Belgian strong ale and Tower 23, a German-style Berliner
weisse. Additionally, this summer they released a brand
new wheat beer called Summer Catch. And, if you want
to immerse yourself even deeper into the Cape May
beer “experience,” they've debuted a new interactive
self-guided tour.
Travel a little further south (take the Ferry for an added
adventure), and you’ll find your way to Dogfish Head
Brewing Company in Delaware. Their brewpub, where
the company began in 1995, is literally steps from the
sand in Rehoboth Beach. A full production brewery is
located just minutes away in Milton, Delaware. DFH experiments with very unique ingredients, which explains
their slogan, “off-centered ales for off-centered people.”
If you want to kick it up a notch, Dogfish Head is now
Jamie Queli, Forgotten Boardwalk Brewery
taking reservations at their newly opened Dogfish Inn in
Lewes, Delaware, just a bike ride away from both their
brewery and brewpub. That’s right. Why limit your beer
experience to sipping your favorite beverage, when you
can literally “eat, sleep and drink” beer on your next vacation. The inn features 16 rooms filled with thoughtful,
beer-centric amenities and design elements, including a
wool Dogfish blanket. And screen-prints of beer labels
adorn the walls. Each room is equipped with a minifridge stocked with locally made snacks, which you
may enjoy with the beers you bring back from DFH’s
brewery and brewpub.
If your only vacation is a “stay-cation,” there are a number of breweries that will bring the beach to you. Forgotten Boardwalk Brewery in Cherry Hill, NJ offers beers
like Funnel Cake and 1916 Shore Shiver. With these beers
in hand, you can feel like you’re walking on the boardwalk without leaving your hometown.
Another brewery that may put you in a vacation stateof-mind – or perhaps make you glad you didn’t take
that cruise after all – is the Heavy Seas Brewing Company in Baltimore, Maryland. Their beers all feature a
nautical/pirate themes, including Loose Cannon, Peg Leg
and Smooth Sail. If you're inclined to make the journey,
one brewery that evokes thoughts of travel is Traveler Beer Co. in Burlington, Vermont. Traveler Beer Co.
specializes in one of the most refreshing beer styles in
the world, the Shandy, which is beer mixed with citrus
flavored soda or carbonated lemonade. You can enjoy a
Curious Traveler, a lemon version, or an Illusive Traveler, a
Shandy infused with grapefruit juice.
Hopefully, whomever you are travelling with shares
your love of beer. Otherwise, go alone and send them a
postcard: “Wish you were beer here.”
Ryan Krill, Cape May Brewery
www.origlio.com
27
Behind
the Suds
With Dick Yuengling of Yuengling & Sons Inc.,
Ken Grossman of Sierra Nevada Brewing Co.
and Jim Koch of The Boston Beer Co.
Whether it’s Meeting of the Malts or the Craft Brewers Conference, in the world of beer, all roads eventually lead to Philadelphia. Draught Lines asked a
few visiting brewers why this is so.
“Beer is a part of Philadelphia’s culture dating back to
the founding fathers. There
is a vibrant food and social
scene here as well. If you can
create a strong fan base in
Philly’s unique neighborhoods, you know you have a
brand that can take off.”
- Dick Yuengling
“Philadelphia has a great brewing tradition, but it’s also very
forward-looking. Both are
important characteristics of a
great craft beer community.
The best brewers strive to
advance the industry, while
honoring beer’s heritage. Philly
is a good example of that.”
- Ken Grossman
“Philadelphia is a great city
for many reasons, but one of
the most important, to me, is
that is was among the first
cities outside of Boston to
embrace the craft beer movement. It’s where we opened
the first Sam Adams Brew
Pub. The state of Pennsylvania has played a big role in
Samuel Adams’ history.”
- Jim Koch
#
Beer
Banter
Drinking with Dad
With Father’s Day on the horizon,
Draught Lines reached out to a few industry professionals and asked them
which beer was the first one they shared
with Dad.
"The first beer I had with my father was a
Yuengling Lager. Being from Schuylkill County, it was almost a rite of passage for father and
son to share this tradition."
– Jay Wiederhold, President of Pennsylvania
Beer Alliance
“As a faithful Baptist, my father is not and
never was a drinker. However, a few years ago
when I was running Philly Beer Week and Dad
was approaching his 90th birthday, I invited
him and my mother to Opening Tap where
they got to meet Mayor Nutter and enjoy all
the insanity with a thousand other beer drinkers. I poured them a sample of Fegley’s Hopsolutely, which had been my beer of the year. Dad
gave it a look and drained his sampler glass in
one gulp, then puckered his cheeks at its bitterness. I had invited a local vocal group to
the festival to do a pop-up version of the song
"Drink" from "The Student Prince" operetta – a
song whose chorus Dad loved singing when I
was a kid. He stood up with the group, raised
his glass and sang along. I couldn't have been
any happier, introducing him to my world and
sharing that moment.”
– Don Russell, a.k.a “Joe Sixpack”
“The first beer I had with my dad was a Yuengling Black & Tan. He used to get it for parties
– it’s what he drank back in the day.”
– Luke Bowen, Co-owner of Evil Genius Beer
Co.
the Lookout
Draught Lines Fall 2016
Never
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Kindred
Spirits
Brewers blur the
lines between
whiskey and beer.
Beers
to
drink
this
fall
It's not all about
pumpkins and
Oktoberfests.
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Beyond
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Modern variations
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31