Instructions For Removing and Replacing The Sash
In The Brighton Double Hung Picture Window
Tools Needed: Stiff putty knife, small pry bar, end nipper or pliers (for pulling nails), deglazing or
utility knife, cordless drill/driver, vise-grip, pneumatic finish nailer with 1 ¼’’ nails (or hammer
with 1 ¼’’ finish nails, tube of clear silicone sealant.
1. Remove sash stops. (jambs and head) Starting with the
jambs, work the thin blade of the putty knife in behind
them, and pry inward carefully so as not to damage the
wood. Once you have it started, utilize the small pry bar to
continue removal.
2. Remove sill board/cover utilizing putty knife and pry bar,
as was done in step one. Notice how sill board/cover is
nailed along front edge to the supporting piece below it.
Keep this in mind for later re-installation.
3. Remove all nails from the stops and the frame with the end
nippers or pliers. (Stops are nailed from outside of frame
from factory, so some nails may remain in the jambs and
header)
4. Remove sill fill board. This is best accomplished by driving
a 1 ½’’ deck or wood screw about ½ way into one end of
the board and utilizing a pliers or vise-grip to pull the board
up and out.
Note: On units 48’’ and wider, there will be screws at the
center of the sill fill board that will need to be extracted
prior to removal of the board – two in sash and one into sill.
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5. Remove sash clips by extracting the 4 screws in each.
6. Utilizing either a deglazing tool, or utility knife, cut the seal
between the frame and sash. You may have to make
several passes in order to completely cut through the seal,
which is about ½’’ wide.
Note: If sash is to be reused, you will need to mask off the
cladding in order to protect it from being scratched while
cutting the seal.
7. Starting at the top, push sash toward interior. Sash will be
very tight in frame, due to blocking around perimeter of
sash, and also the caulking applied to interior frame
corners, so you may need to utilize a small pry bar to aid in
removing sash.
Note: You will need the aid of another person to “catch”
the sash on the interior as you are prying or pushing sash
out of frame.
Once you have the sash broken loose from the original
seals, you can simply tilt the top of the sash toward interior
and lift out. Be sure to save the rubber blocking that was
used to square sash.
8. Once you have the old sash removed, the frame can now
be prepped for installation of the new sash. You can start
this process by removing the original sealing tape with a
stiff plastic putty knife or narrow piece of polyacrylate
(plexiglass). A minor amount of adhesive residue from the
old seal may remain on the frame cladding.
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9. Apply new sealing tape to frame cladding. Keep tape
parallel with edge, and approximately 1/16’’ back from
edge. At top corners, miter the end of the tape and start
tape about 1/16’’-1/8’’ from corner gasket. At bottom, butt
the tape tightly against sill gasket. (See inset picture)
10. Apply a generous amount of clear silicone sealant to all 4
inside corners making sure that it overlaps the tape joints
at the top, and the tape ends at the sill.
Block here first
11. Set replacement sash into frame opening, bottom first,
then tilt top in. Center the sash horizontally in the frame.
Starting at the top, block tightly between the sash and
frame, utilizing the blocks saved from removing the old
sash. You may need to use a small pry bar at top to ensure
that the weatherstrip at the sill is compressed sufficiently.
12. While applying moderate outward force on sash, install the
sash clips into their original positions in frame.
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13. Re-install the sill filler board. Make sure it is fully seated
before running screws back into sash and sill. (Narrow units
may not have the screws-sill board will not be fastened in
the case.)
14. Re-Install perimeter sash stops, starting with the sill.
Note: Do not nail stops until you have all of them in
position.
Continue with re-installation of sash stops, placing the
header in position next. You may have to hold header in
place until the jamb stops are re-installed to support the
header.
15. Starting with header, apply a considerable outward force
on sash stop to ensure that the sash seats sufficiently into
the seal in frame. Nail into place with 1 ¼’’ finish nails.
Continue by exerting the same outward force on the jamb
stops, and nail them into place.
16. To fasten the sill stop in place, first ensure that the front
edge of the sill stop is flush with the face of the existing
vertical sill cover. You will then nail the sill stop to the sill
cover at the front edge, keeping your nails approximately
¼’’ back from the edge to ensure that the nail doesn’t
“blow out” the face of the sill cover. Space nails about 4’’
apart. Also, place 3-4 nails towards back edge of sill stop at
center. Set your nails if necessary, and fill nail holes with
suitable matching wood putty.
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