2010 Nissan Murano
14-AUG-2014
Repair of Failed Tailgate Release Switches
Explanation of How This “Fix” works:
The 2009-2010 Murano tailgate release system has several methods to open, or
‘release,’ that door. Some models also have an automatic tailgate opener.
 Low end models have a pair of manual pushbutton switches in the tailgate, just
above the license plate.
 High end models also have an additional manual pushbutton switch on the dash,
below and to the left of the steering column.
NOTE: Other model years may not function the same as the 2010. I have
no information on those model years, so you will need to find the electrical
controls schematics for your model year to determine if your system works
as the 2010 described below.
This repair procedure only deals with the manual opener version, and more
specifically, with the two pushbutton switches mounted in the tailgate.
These two switches are mounted in a plastic module above the license plate and are
not repairable. The only way to correct this failure, as Nissan advises, is to purchase a
new tailgate.
This repair procedure costs less than $10 and can be performed by anyone who is
reasonably competent with hand tools, i.e. one who knows which end of a screwdriver
to reach for. I found the most difficult part of the repair was trying to put the interior
trim panel back on the tailgate, by my self. It is much easier when 2 people work
together.
A word of caution… It is possible for the release system to fail because the release
“motor” has failed. My car did not suffer this type of failure, but I have included some
instructions to confirm such a failure. Almost everything involved in repairing the
failed switches is also required to get to the release motor. So if it must be replaced,
you are already there.
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How does the tailgate release system work electrically?
The Murano uses a package of electronics called the Body Control Module (BCM) to
monitor and actuate almost everything in the passenger part of the vehicle, including
the door locks, windows, and releases.
In the case of the tailgate release, the BCM sends out a very low voltage (less than a
AAA battery) to the two switches in the tailgate. When you press one of the two
switches, the wire from the BCM is momentarily connected to the car’s frame, or
‘ground.’ The BCM senses this change and interprets it as a command to actuate the
tailgate latch release. The BCM then sends a strong 12V signal to the tailgate release
motor, on a different heavy wire, which causes the release to actuate.
If the switches fail to function properly the BCM never gets the message to operate
the tailgate release. So in order to repair this problem, we will disconnect the BCM
signal wires from the two failed, original switches, and connect one of those BCM
signal wires to a new switch.
NOTE: To confirm which has failed; the two pushbuttons or the release ‘motor,’ a
simple test is required, and will be explained later. First, let’s get everything ready.
Tools Needed:
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
6” Flat screw driver and/or a 10” pry bar
Needle nose pliers
Wire Stripper / Cutters
Small to Medium Soldering Iron + Rosen Core solder (NOT acid core.)
3M Electrical Tape (don’t skimp… get the 3M brand)
Hand Drill with set of drill bits up to 3/8” (See Caution Note on page 9.)
Volt-Ohm meter for use during testing.
Parts:
1. Momentary contact pushbutton switch, SPST, Normally Off (or Normally Open)
right angle switch, $5.42 at Lowe (online here.)
(Lowes Item #: 543143 - Servalite switch # 1904U/ H#39326 Electrical.)
2. 4-5 feet - 16 Ga, single conductor, stranded DO NOT use solid copper wire.
3. 5-6 Feet of light duty rope and an ‘S’ hook to hold the tailgate while you work.
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Repair Instructions:
1.
For safety during this repair, disconnect the negative (-) power cable from the
12V battery in the engine compartment, and make sure it cannot re-contact
the battery negative terminal.
2.
Tailgate Hold Down Rope: Later, once you have removed the interior panel, it
will be very helpful to have a rope to hold the tailgate at the ½ raised position.
Buy, or make, an “S” hook and secure one end of the rope to this hook. The
other end will be tied to something convenient under the rear bumper, on the
passenger side. The ‘S’ hook can be hooked in one of the openings in the
tailgate fame.
3.
Remove the tailgate pull down handles (white arrows in Fig. 1) using a flat
screw driver to pry under the edge until the handle pops out of the trim panel.
Fig. 1
4.
Remove the four retaining buttons from the interior trim panel. (red arrows in
Fig 1.) These buttons are released by pushing in the small center pin.
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Fig. 2
Push IN to
Remove
Button
Pull Out to
Insert
Button
5.
The trim panel is held in place by 6 or 8 clips, located across the rear of the
panel. They hold the panel to the tailgate rather tightly, and must be pulled
free one at a time.
Starting at one of the lower corners of the panel, use a wide flat screw driver,
or a small pry bar, to separate the panel from the tailgate. Work the panel
loose until you can get your fingers under the trim panel, then pull firmly to
pop free each of the retaining clips. I was trying to go too fast and managed
to break off one of the plastic pins on the trim panel.
6.
Once all the clips are free, lower the bottom the trim panel toward the bumper
and observe how the top, side sections are retained (the ‘horns’ on each side
of the window as marked by the white arrow.) Study the way the panel is
retained. When it’s time to go back together, you will need to get these side
‘horns’ back into this position first.
Fig. 3
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The trim panel may now be removed from the tailgate. And install the “tie
down” rope so the tailgate is at a comfortable position to work .
7.
Study the interior face of the tailgate and Fig. 4 below, to become familiar with
where the various components are located.
Fig. 4
Latch
Release
Motor
8.
Opening “A” allows access to the rear of the Release Switch Module, and the
wires to the 1st connector out of the switch module.
9.
As noted earlier, there are several possible failure modes: 1) the switches have
failed, or, 2) the release motor has failed. If you are certain, that the release
motor is OK, go to Step 10. Otherwise, test the release motor, as follows:
a. Re-install the Negative cable to the battery “-“ post.
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b. Remove the 1st Connector (see Fig.4) from the tailgate frame and
disconnect the plug-in section from the switch module. This will give you
electrical access to the two white and two black wires coming from the
Body Control Module (BCM.)
c. Using a standard paper clip, or 4” of thin wire, bend it into a long “U”
shape, so that each leg of the “U” is the same length and about ¼” apart.
Note which of the 4 connector pins is attached to the white and to the
black wires. Gently insert the 2 legs of the wire ‘U’ into the plug so it
connects one white wire to a black wire. (The switches do exactly this.)
Make sure to try both white wires.
d. If the latch release motor is working, you should immediately hear the
motor operate. If connecting any white wire to any black wire in the plug
does not cause the release motor to operate, there are three possible
reasons: 1) the release motor is bad, or, 2) there is a break in ONE OR
BOTH of the white wires, between the BCM and the connector plug, or, 3)
the BCM module is bad. (No.’s 2 and 3 are possible, but not likely.)
NOTE: If you prefer not to get into the detailed tests that follow, leave
everything as it is and take the car to a reputable repair shop, and ask
them to help you test the release motor. If it has to be replaced, let them
do it, and then come back and continue at step 10.
e. An additional test can help confirm where the problem is located. Locate
the electrical connector plug on the release motor (see Fig. 4) and
disconnect the plug. You will need an assistant for the next few steps.
f. Position the assistant so they have access to the release switch connector
with the 2 white and 2 black wires, and show them how to gently insert
the paper clip to connect the white and black wires.
g. When they are ready, set your volt meter to DC Volts, and connect the
negative (black) lead to a grounded, bare metal part of the vehicle. As your
assistant connects black to white with the paper clip, use the volt meter to
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check for 12V on at least one of the wires in the half-connector that
connects the wiring harness to release motor. (Don’t test the connector
half attached to the release motor.) At least one of these wires you test
should indicate 12V when your assistant makes a black-white connection.
If not, the problem is either faulty wiring or a bad BCM. Take the car to a
reputable shop to help find the problem.
Let’s assume you find the 12V coming on at the release motor harness
connector. This most likely means the release motor is faulty. Release
motors are available thru the Nissan dealers, ebay, and several other
businesses. I cannot help on this since I did not need to replace the motor
in my Murano.
10. At this point you should have a working release motor and have proven the
wiring and BCM are working properly, meaning the original release switches
are faulty. So we can proceed with installation of a replacement switch for the
release circuit. First, again remove the negative cable from the battery.
11. Secure the half of the 1st connector that is attached to the release switch
module. Use a good quality Duct tape or packing tape. This will prevent it from
rattling against the tailgate frame.
12. Cut 2 - 24” long pieces of 16 Ga wire for ‘jumpers’ to extend the switch wires.
Strip 1” of insulation from one end of each jumper. Next, strip 1” of insulation
from the new switch wires. Twist the ends of a switch wire and a jumper as if
you were going to install a wire nut, then solder the twist together. Repeat for
the other switch wire. (Wire nuts can fall off.)
13. Fold the soldered connection away from the switch so the jumper is folded,
then insulate the solder joint with 3M electrical tape,
or heat-shrink tube. This is very low voltage so the
insulation does not need to be thick.
14. The switch I used is shown right. I selected this
switch because the wires exit the body at a 90°
angle, which allows a little easier installation. If you
select a different switch just make sure in advance
that there is sufficient space on the inside of the tailgate.
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Fig. 5 Interior View
Splice of
Jumpers to
switch wires.
Fig. 6 Exterior View
Drill hole for
new release
Switch – drill
hole on cross
mark.
1-3/8”
1/2”
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15. Next, carefully locate the center of the switch mounting hole per the
dimensions shown in Fig. 6. and drill a hole in the plastic release switch
module just large enough for the threaded stem of the new switch.
CAUTION !!!
Be very careful when drilling the hole, the Switch Module is made of
soft plastic. If you use a conventional twist drill bit as I did, the soft
plastic will give way to the drill bit unexpectedly. When this happens
the drill bit suddenly becomes a screw and will quickly jump into the
plastic the full length of the bit. I was lucky because the bit did not
strike anything inside the tailgate. Be prepared to stop the drill. A
better choice, even if you must purchase one, is a hole saw (like this.)
These bits will help smooth the transition as the bit breaks through the
plastic, but might leave a rough hole in the plastic.
16. Mount the switch after routing the jumper wires along the path to the
connector. I used a small touch of silicone seal on the mounting face of the
switch and the threaded stem to both hold the retaining nut tightly and to help
keep water out. Tighten the retaining nut hand tight and then 1/8 turn more
using pliers. Do Not over tighten. NOTE: This switch is not waterproof, but
after using it for two months in lots of rain, I think it will hold up for several
years.
17. Next, the jumper wires must be connected to the black and white wires at the
1st connector. Starting 2” to 3” away from the plastic connector, use a sharp
pocket knife to carefully strip about 1” of insulation from one of the black wires
and one white. Try not to cut the strands of the metal wire.
18. Route the jumpers around the metal frame of the tailgate and cut to length for
the connections, leaving 3” to 4” of slack. Strip 1” of insulation from the ends
of the two jumpers, and wrap one jumper wire around the exposed black wire,
and the other jumper around the exposed white wire. Solder the connections,
then wrap each with3M electrical tape. Re-install the plastic connector in its
mounting clip on the tailgate frame.
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19. Return the battery negative cable to its post on the battery. Test the tailgate
release switch and connections by closing the tailgate and them pressing the
new release switch.
20. When you are satisfied everything works properly, check for any loose tools
left in the tailgate frame. Then, get an assistant and re-install the interior trim
panel starting with the capture points on the upper edges of the ‘horns’ at the
rear window (see Fig. 3.) I found the panel went into place easily when held
up by two people. These capture points also serve to align the panel so the 68 retaining clips are in proper position to snap together.
21. Snap the panel into the retaining clips, and install the four capture buttons.
Pull the button’s stem out until the button will go completely in, then push the
stem in until it is flush.
22. Reinstall the two tailgate pull down hand holds, and the job is complete.
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