Pressed Powder Kit Instructions
Welcome! You are about to discover how easy it is to press your own color cosmetics.
Whether you are repairing a crumbling but beloved eye shadow which you purchased
from the cosmetics counter, or formulating your own design “from scratch”, you are
guaranteed to have fun, save money and be very pleased with the quality of your
results.
This Kit includes:
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Two 4-well magnetic palettes
Eight 26mm round tins
One Tamper Tool and one Press Tile for pressing your powders
1/2 fl oz MyMix Liquid Press-It Binder with preservative added
One Tablespoon MyMix Press Base
Pressing Ribbon
8 zip lock baggies
Two measuring scoops and 1 spatula
Pair of latex gloves
What you need to provide:
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Rubbing Alcohol (important, do not skip!) for cleanliness
Clean work surface and cotton swabs
Plastic wrap (makes it easier, but not absolutely required)
Color additives (either purchased from us or another company).
What you might want:
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A sieve. A sieve is not an utter necessity but it makes a world of difference. Sieving keeps the
powders loose & fine and makes them press more easily. Our company sells a mini-sieve which
you might consider. Alternatively, you can place silk cloth in a needlepoint ring and then using a
kabuki brush to gently push your powders through the silk sieve.
If you are using pure pigments such as our Matte Tones you will want to use a grinder to make
sure the color is fully mixed with the dry binder. If you are pressing pre-made cosmetics or mica
powders, you won’t need a grinder at all.
Jars to mix in (instead of using the zip lock bags we provide).
Limit of Liability and Disclaimer of Warranty:
The information provided herein is provided "as is." TKB Trading, LLC makes no representation or
warranties with respect to the accuracy or completeness of the contents of these instructions and
specifically disclaims any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for any particular purpose. All
recommendations and suggestions are made without guarantee, since the conditions of use are beyond
our control. In no event shall TKB Trading, LLC be liable for damages of any nature arising out of the
use or reliance upon the information.
Consumers are encouraged to observe all measures of cleanliness and hygiene and to “patch test” all
ingredients and products to assure that they will not have unfavorable results. In all cases, consumer
should discontinue use of any item which causes irritation.
What is a Pressed Powder Cosmetic?
A pressed powder cosmetic is typically a blend of three things:
 A color (about 80% - 90%)
 A dry binder (about 5-10% by weight)
 A liquid binder (about 3.0% -3.5% for recipes which use pure pigments. About
8.0% - 9.0% for recipes which use mica)
Here is a sample recipe with instructions. Use this as a guide for the projects you make
with this kit.
½ tsp (0.9 gr) Pigment
2 scoops (0.1 gr) MyMix Press Base
3-5 drops MyMix PressIt Binder
Instructions:
1. First clean all tools, work surfaces and tins with alcohol to disinfect. Put on your
latex gloves!
2. Measure the powders (color and press base) into a zip lock bag. Close the bag
and rub between your hands until fully mixed.
3. Open the bag and add the drops of liquid binder. Close the bag, and rub
between your hands until all the ingredients are well mixed. Your goal is to have
a product which has the look and feel of damp sand. Imagine you are at the
beach building a sand castle. If the sand is too dry, it will not pack. If the sand is
too wet, it will not stay in place.
4. Add a drop of MyMix PressIt Binder to the bottom of the tin you are going to
press into.
5. If you have a sieve (highly recommended), please sieve your powders first and
then scoop approximately 1/3rd of the mixed powder into the tin. If you do not
have a sieve, simply scoop approximately 1/3rd of the mixed powder into the tin.
6. Place the plastic wrap over the bottom of the tamper tool (this keeps things clean
and makes the press smoother). Tamp down on the powder and press firmly.
Lift slowly.
7. Add a second layer and press again.
8. Add a final layer and do a final press. For effect, you may use one of the plastic
bags between the powder and the tamper tool for a smooth finish. For a hatched
finish, use the pressing ribbon between the powder and the tamper tool.
9. If you really want to press “hard”, place the Pressing Tile on top of the powder,
and squeeze with a “C-Clamp” that you purchase at a hardware store. The
stronger the press, the better the results.
If you follow this basic recipe and instructions for any powders you have, you should
have success.
More details on the Ingredients & Techniques
What’s the color? Any cosmetic-grade approved color additive you choose. It is
easiest to work with our colored micas. You may also choose to work with some of the
pure pigments (matte colors), but if you do, you will need to use a grinder of some type
to make sure the colors are well mixed.
What’s the dry binder? A pressed powder typically includes 5%-10% of a dry binder.
A dry binder is a powder which grabs and binds the powders together. In this kit, you
are using the MyMix Press Base which is a blend of the following ingredients:
 Sericite Mica -- Light, fluffy and a little shimmery
 Calcium Carbonate – Also known as “chalk” (only cosmetic grade in this case),
presses nicely
 Zinc Stearate – Presses nicely
 Kaolin Clay – Light, fluffy and matte
Note: If you are a using a premade eye shadow (for example, if you have a pressed
eye shadow that has crumbled and you just want to press it back into shape), then you
probably don’t need to add any of the other ingredients, or maybe just the liquid binder.
This is because a commercial pressed eye shadow already has dry binder ingredients
in its formula.
You can design your own formula for a dry binder. Please refer to Table #1 Press Base
Ingredients for ideas on things you could use.
What is the liquid binder? A liquid binder is there to wet the powders and make them
easy to press (imagine trying to build a sand castle out of dry sand and you get the
idea!). In this kit, you are using MyMix PressIt Binder which is a blend of silicone oils,
including:
 Isopropyl Myristate
 Dimethicone
 Bis-Vinyl Dimethicone/Dimethicone Copolymer
 Added Preservative: Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate,
Hexylene Glycol
There are a lot of alternatives. Please refer to Table #2 Common Liquid Binders for
ideas on how to make your own binder.
A good Liquid Binder will meet the following criteria:
1. None-oily
2. Non-drying to the skin
3. Flexible enough that the tablet will not crack over time
4. Won't alter the color immediately or over time
5. Won't go rancid or develop an odor
6. Will be stable in the face of heat or time (won't remelt)
A really good Liquid Binder will also offer up extra benefits:
1. Be good at wetting pigments to bring out their full color
2. Be good at wetting powders for better compaction
3. Encourage good color pickup or payoff
4. Assist in skin adhesion
5. Aid in slip and skin feel by reducing drag
What about Technique? When you press, you want to use slowly increasing pressure
-- not one hammer fall. This is because as you press down you are also removing air
pockets around the grains of pigment and you need to give the air time to escape. If
you do not, the pockets will be trapped inside and your tablet will be prone to cracking.
The act of pressing itself may be accomplished by many tools. Your goal is to obtain a
Per Square Inch of Pressure (psi) between 500 - 2000. Your thumbs alone are only
able to do about 400 psi and with your body weight pressing down you can eek up to
about 500 psi. Since we are only meeting minimum standards, it is a good idea to fill
our pan in three layers. It takes more pressure to compact a single thick layer of powder
than three thin ones.
To increase pressure, consider using a “C-Clamp” which you can purchase at a
hardware store and one of the TKB Trading, LLC Press Tiles.
TABLE #1: PRESS BASE INGREDIENTS
Powder
Improves Improves
Name
Payout?
Press?
Comments & Recommended Usage Rate
Boron Nitride (N)
Good
Good
Adds shine, don’t use it if you want a matte base.
Use at 2%- 10%
Bismuth Oxychloride
Good
Good
Calcium Carbonate (N)
Kaolin Clay (N)
Lauroyl Lysine (N, S)
Magnesium Myristrate
(N, S)
Mica (N)
No
No
Excellent
Good
Excellent
Excellent
Good
Excellent
Adds shine, don’t use it if you want a matte base.
Use at 2%- 15%
Inexpensive, good at absorbing oils. Use at 5% - 70%
Inexpensive, good at absorbing oils. Use at 5%-20%
Adds bounce and slip. Use at 2%-5%
Adds adhesion. Use at 5%-10%
Good
No
Nylon-12
PMMA
Excellent
Excellent
Good
No
PTFE (R)
Good
Excellent
Silica Microspheres (N)
Excellent
No
Silicones (S)
Excellent
Excellent
Talc (N)
Good
Excellent
Titaniuim Dioxide (N)
No
Good
Waxes (N, S)
Good
Excellent
Zinc Oxide (N)
No
Good
Zinc Stearate (N, R)
Good
Excellent
Notes:
a.
Micas of any kind (Sericite, Silk, etc.) are common
base powders are poor at pressing. We recommend a
surface-treated mica. Use at 20%-40%
Improve skin feel and color payout. Use at 2%-5%
Polymethyl Methacrylate (PMMA) also offers light
scattering properties for a “soft focus” effect.
Recommended for pressed foundations. 3% - 20%
Polyethrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is an excellent dry
binder. Use at 2%-5%.
Improves color payout and offers light scattering
properties for a “soft focus” effect. Recommended
for pressed foundations 2%-5%
Typically liquid. Usually found in the liquid binder or
as a surface treatment on a base powder.
Talc is a common base powder with excellent
pressing qualities. Use at 10% - 80%
Will also whiten your recipe. Smaller particle sizes
will perform better in pressed powders. 3%-10%
Typically solid. Usually found as a surface treatment
on a base powder..
Will also whiten your recipe. Smaller particle sizes
will perform better in pressed powders. 15% - 40%
This dry binder is the magic bullet. Add from 5%-10%
to your loose minerals to turn them into a press base.
Other stearates may also be used (calcium,
magnesium, etc.)
An ingredient which “Improves Payout” helps your color come off the pressed cake and onto your
brush or fingertip. It will also improve the “Skin Feel” of the product as you apply it.
b. An ingredient which “Improves Press” will help ingredients stick together (bind them) and generally
improves pressability.
c. “N” in the table means “Natural” or “Naturally Derived”
d. “R” means “Highly Recommended”.
e. “S” means “Surface Treated Use Recommended”. You may buy the ingredients by themselves, but
more typically you will buy them as a surface treatment on a base powder (example: TKB's MTTD is
titanium dioxide with methicone). By using a surface treated product you are less likely to over-dose
on one or the other ingredient. Over-dosing can result in waste of expensive raw materials, as well as
a product which is irritating to the skin. Surface treatments may be put on any base powder
(examples: mica with lauroyl lysine, mica with dimethicone, etc.).
TABLE #2: COMMON LIQUID BINDERS
Ingredient
Comments & Recommended Usage Rate
Alcohol/Vodka/Witch Hazel
Aloe Vera Gel
Cellulose
Jojoba Oil
NATURAL BINDERS
Very effective at wetting pigments but by itself produces a brittle cake with no
payoff.
Available in a thin viscosity which makes it a natural choice for wetting the
powders. Downside is that it is easily contaminated with bacteria and so
requires preservation.
Generic binder, typically as a powder.
Jojoba Esters
Adequate basic binder which can be used by itself. Can go rancid over
time. Natural yellow color will effect product unless you purchase clear jojoba.
Available in different thicknesses they are completely oil free.
Water
Very good wetting agent, requires special formulation including preservatives.
Fractionated Coconut Oil
(Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides )
Good basic binder which can be used by itself. No concerns for rancidity or
color changing. Somewhat oily, can be improved by additional ingredients
which augment color payoff and reduce drag.
Good universal binder which is an ester derived from palm oil. Improves color,
texture and impact resistance
A good wetting agent.
Isostearyl Palmitate
Glycerin
Waxes (non-brittle waxes such as
beeswax, paraffin, etc.)
Counteracts brittleness of the cake. Waxes also seal the surface of the tablet
against moisture and moisture loss. Too much wax reduces color payout.
SYTHETIC BINDERS
Silicones
Not natural, but popular because they lend to the esthetics offering a nice skin
feel. They also give the consumer more Play Time. There are many types to
choose from. Generally, they are very poor at wetting pigments and powders
and so often blended with wetting agents. Silicones are available in various
thickenesses or viscosities.
Also referred to as Liquid Paraffin.
Mineral Oil
Paraffin Wax
Counteracts brittleness of the cake. Waxes also seal the surface of the tablet
against moisture and moisture loss. Too much wax reduces color payout.
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All rights reserved. No part of this document or the related files may be reproduced or
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TKB Trading, LLC
1101 9th Avenue
Oakland, CA 94606
510-451-9011
info@tkbtrading.com
www.tkbtrading.com