Business
The Resurrection of
By Terri Vinson (BSc. ASCC)
O
ur industry has been faced with many
challenges in recent times. With small
business now recovering from the GFC
we can begin to focus on the basics again:
satisfying the needs of clients with effective
treatments and products whilst exercising
sound economic management of our business. Many owners
are being seduced into investing five-figure sums into their
salon equipment. However, there is a highly effective and
economical option available: galvanic iontophoresis.
As a cosmetic chemist, I am constantly seeking the
simplest options for skin therapists based on sound science.
Iontophoresis, using the traditional galvanic machine, has
received a facelift in recent times. This treatment can create a
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significant improvement in the skin without the hefty financial
outlay. The twist is in understanding the protocol and the
cosmeceutical solutions that can be driven into the dermis.
Put simply, this treatment uses an electric current to introduce
chemical solutions into unbroken skin, enhancing the
penetration of active ingredients and creating positive change.
The outer layer of the skin (stratum corneum) has a
protective function to prevent chemicals, pollutants and
water entering the skin. This is a beneficial action and vital
for the health of the skin. Ironically, it presents a problem
when trying to absorb cosmeceuticals such as L-ascorbic
acid and other active ingredients. Iontophoresis causes tiny
pores to open in the cells (36-millionths of a millimetre)
to allow maximum penetration of active ingredients. The
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additional benefit is that the heat produced encourages
increased blood flow. The heat is normally localised in the
area of treatment so it is bringing blood, oxygen and cell
nutrients to that area of the skin.
Now, for a science lesson.
The term ‘galvanic’ refers to the smooth, uninterrupted
alternating current. The galvanic medi-facial is based on the
basic laws of electricity: “like charge repels/opposite charge
attracts”. The concept behind galvanic is that it forces active
ingredients deep into the skin. In galvanic iontophoresis
medi-facials, an electrical circuit is created in the body when
the client holds one probe (anode, negative charge), and a
therapist applies another probe (cathode, positive charge) onto
the facial skin.
If the therapist is holding a positively charged electrode
(cathode), then the cosmeceutical solution on the skin should
be positively charged (acidic). Because both the electric current
and ionised solution are positively charged, they will repel one
another to be forced into the deeper layers of the skin. In theory,
the solution will be “repelled into the skin” through the pores,
into sebaceous glands, the dermis, and into capillaries. The
positive ionised solution will be running towards the negatively
charged electric current that is running through the client’s body
because the client will be holding the negatively charged anode.
One iontophoresis treatment increases absorption of watersoluble cosmeceuticals by 400 per cent; the same results can
only be achieved by massaging ingredients into the skin for
seven hours! Iontophoresis uses an appropriately charged
active cosmeceutical solution and an electric current produced
by the machine. Active ingredients, infused into deeper layers
of the skin, stimulate cellular change.
The results of this treatment are based on understanding
the chemistry of the solutions that are driven into the skin.
The acidity level (pH) and water solubility is crucial to this
protocol. Once the fundamental concepts are grasped, the
therapist may blend appropriate solutions to suit the needs of
the client: sun damage, uneven skin tone and acne can all be
treated with iontophoresis. As with most treatments, a series
is recommended to create significant change.
Utilising a positive charge is called cataphoresis. This is the
preferred treatment, used for acidic solutions only, such as pure
L-ascorbic acid (vitamin C). The benefits of cataphoresis include:
n Vasoconstriction to reduce redness and inflammation
n Kills acne bacteria within the follicle
n Minimises photo-ageing
n Skin tightening and collagen stimulation
As with all protocols, contraindications must be strictly
noted. These include:
n Heart condition/pacemaker
n Epilepsy
n Sunburn
n Active herpes lesions
n Open wounds
n High blood pressure
It is critical to understand the importance of the product
you are infusing into the skin. Ensure the ingredients are
of the highest pharmaceutical quality with no questionable
inclusions. There is no doubt that if followed correctly
iontophoresis can become an effective, simple and economical
way to build your skin care business.
For more information about the Iontophoresis protocol,
contact Synergie Minerals, www.synergieminerals.com,
info@synergieminerals.com.
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