study guide: Electrical
Learning Objectives:
• The features and benefits of the products you sell.
• How to answer your customers’ product-related questions.
• How to help your customer choose the right products.
• How to increase transaction sizes by learning more about add-on sales and upselling techniques.
Chapter 1: Light Bulbs
Module 1: Light Bulbs
Product Knowledge:
Incandescent
• Use for general and task lighting around the house.
• Produce light by passing current through a thin coil of wire called a filament. As the wire
heats, it becomes white hot and emits visible light. Inside the bulb is a vacuum.
• The filament vaporizes as a result of current flowing through it, and generally, the bulb
“burns out.”
• Long-life bulbs may last longer than ordinary bulbs, because they have heavier filaments
that do not burn out as quickly. However, these bulbs do not produce as much light as
standard bulbs.
• While incandescent bulbs used to be the standard type of light bulb for general-purpose
use, that has been changing. Current federal regulations set efficiency standards on light
bulbs, which has resulted in manufacturers eliminating the production of many incandescent bulbs and replacing them with other types of bulbs.
Fluorescent
• Use for area lighting, especially in kitchen, bath and task areas.
• Current flows through an atmosphere of inert gas and mercury vapor, producing ultraviolet energy that is invisible to the human eye. A phosphor coating on the inside of the
tube transforms the ultraviolet energy into visible light.
• Features for all fluorescent bulbs include a long lamp life, relatively low brightness and
low heat content and glare, compared with incandescent lamps.
• Electrical connections to the bulbs are made to the bases at each end. The most common is the two-pin base. Single-pin bases are used for instant start bulbs. Recessed
double contact bases are used on rapid–start bulbs longer than 48”.
• Fluorescent bulbs can vary from straight tubes 6” to 96” long to U-shaped tubes and
circular tubes. Wattages for home use range from 4W to 75W.
• T12 fluorescent bulbs are the least efficient type. They are 1-1/2” in diameter and use a
magnetic ballast.
• T8 fluorescent bulbs are 1” in diameter.
• T5 fluorescent bulbs are 5/8” in diameter and are the most energy efficient type. They
use an electronic ballast.
• Fluorescent bulbs need a ballast to operate. Older ballasts cause the bulb to glow by
way of a magnetic field. Newer ballasts are electronic.
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Halogen
• Like incandescent bulbs, halogen bulbs produce light by passing current through a coiled
tungsten wire. The tungsten wire is enclosed in a small quartz or high-temperature glass
tube, which is then filled with gases, including a halogen gas. They tend to give off
excessive heat. • Have the advantage of instant-on light. They are easy to use with dimmers for energy
savings.
• Tungsten halogen bulbs have several advantages over standard incandescent bulbs:
• They offer a whiter, brighter light.
• Typical halogen lamps last 1,000 to 8,000 hours compared to 750 to 1,000 hours for
incandescent lamps.
• More energy-efficient than standard incandescent bulbs. They generate up to 30% more
light for the same electricity. Wattage levels for home use run from 5W to 500W.
• Halogen bulbs blacken much less than incandescent bulbs and stay brighter as they age.
Because of their brilliant white light, they are excellent for use in displays.
Compact Fluorescent
• Compact fluorescent (CFL) bulbs offer different style and performance from standard
fluorescent bulbs. Their color nearly equals that of Soft White incandescents, and they
offer superior energy efficiency and long life.
• Can be as small as 4-1/2” long, and some are the same size as their incandescent
counterparts. Not all fixtures designed for incandescents may have enough room inside
the shade or glass for the bulb.
• Typical CFLs cannot be dimmed. If a CFL is rated as dimmable, it may require a special
dimmer.
• Their life will be maximized if they are used in locations where a light stays on for hours
at a time.
LED
• LEDs, or light emitting diodes, produce light when electricity passes through
semiconductors, known as electroluminescence. Also known as solid-state lighting.
• Manufacturers cluster LEDs together and house them in a bulb that looks similar to the
standard light bulb.
• LEDs do not radiate heat as other bulbs do. Therefore, LED bulbs are designed to
dissipate heat away from the LED circuitry.
• Have a higher initial cost than most bulbs, but also have a much longer life and are highly
efficient. Low voltage.
• LEDs are not naturally white, but manufacturers use phosophorous coatings in the bulbs
to make a soft white light.
High Intensity Discharge Bulb
• Produces light when current flows through a conducting gas. Uses ballasts to start the
bulb and to control its operation. Unlike fluorescent, most of the light comes from the
arc itself rather than through the work of the phosphor.
• Used primarily for area and security lighting. They feature a lifespan of 20,000 to 24,000
hours. They come in a variety of shapes and in medium and mogul bases.
• When replacing HID bulbs, you must replace it with exactly the same type of bulb.
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Mercury vapor
• One type of high intensity discharge lamp is the mercury vapor lamp. These are used for
exterior areas and security lighting, such as dusk-to-dawn residential lighting.
• Mercury vapor lamps provide twice the light output per watt as incandescent lamps.
Along with the higher output, they also have a longer lamp life, in some cases up to 30
times as long.
• They are also more expensive than incandescent or fluorescent. Mercury vapor bulbs
produce a bluish white color.
• Self-ballasted mercury lamps can be used with a ballast in incandescent fixtures and are
available for 120V systems in the lower wattages (up to 250W) and for 240V systems in
both lower and higher wattages.
• These lamps deliver slightly more light output per watt than the incandescent lamps but
have the long life of mercury lamps.
Other types of high intensity discharge bulbs
• Metal halide lamps feature medium efficiency, with 50 to 110 lumens per watt. They
provide good color characteristics (similar to cool white fluorescent lamps) along with
higher light output.
• High–pressure sodium lamps provide even higher light output per watt than metal halide
(50 to 150 lumens per watt), with a golden yellow light. Residential applications include
security and landscape lighting.
• Low–pressure sodium bulbs feature the highest efficiency, with 100 to 180 lumens per
watt. They produce an orange light.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why aren’t incandescent bulbs available like they used to be?
A: The Federal government has set new standards for the efficiency of light bulbs. While the new standards
do not ban any type of bulb, the traditional incandescent light bulbs cannot meet those standards. Therefore,
manufacturers have stopped making them.
Q: Area all incandescent bulbs affected?
A: The standards affect 100-, 60- and 40-watt incandescent bulbs. However, certain types of incandescent
specialty bulbs, including appliance, heavy-duty, colored and three-way bulbs are exempt from the new
standards.
Q: Do CFL bulbs have mercury?
A: CFL bulbs do have a very small amount of mercury. The bulb does not release any when the bulb is intact.
However, instead of throwing them away, we recommend you recycle CFL bulbs.
Q: What bulb will have the same brightness as my old 100W incandescent bulb?
A: The proper way to judge a bulb’s brightness is by lumens. Use this general rule of thumb to make the
conversion from watts in incandescent bulbs to lumens: To replace a 100W incandescent bulb, look for a bulb
that has about 1600 lumens. To replace a 75W incandescent bulb, look for a bulb that has about 1100 lumens. To
replace a 60W incandescent bulb, look for a bulb that gives about 800 lumens. To replace a 40W incandescent
bulb, look for a bulb that gives about 450 lumens.
Q: What is the difference between a floodlight and a spotlight?
A: The floodlight will have a broader light pattern, while a spotlight will focus on a more narrow area.
Q: My fluorescent light fixture is noisy. Is there anything I can do to make it quieter?
A: Try using a different ballast. Ballasts have sound ratings— “A” is the quietest; “C” is the loudest. Try replacing
the ballast in your fixture.
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Q: Can I use a T8 bulb in the fixture I already have?
A: I really depends on what type of ballast you are using. Since T8 and T12 bulbs are the same length, you can
use either of them in the same size of fixture. However, you want to be sure you are using the correct ballast
for the type of bulb you are using. Generally, for best results, use a magnetic ballast with a T12 bulb and an
electronic ballast with a T8 bulb. It’s unlikely you will get a T8 bulb to work in a fixture designed for T12 bulbs.
If you do, that bulb will have a severely reduced life, because the ballast is sending 40W through a bulb that is
only rated for 32W.
About Light Bulbs
• Lumens: This is the true measure of a bulb’s brightness. More lumens means a brighter bulb,
fewer lumens means a dimmer light.
• ENERGY STAR logo: If this logo is present, then the bulb meets certain requirements for
efficiency, lifetime and quality.
• Light Appearance: This will tell you the color of the light. It is measured in K (Kelvin). Bulbs with
warm, white light will be at the lower end of the scale (2700K). Bulbs with a bluish light have a
higher rating. Bulbs marketed as “daylight” are usually between 5000 and 6000K. Warm white
light is good for lighting living rooms or bedrooms. Cool white light is good for kitchens and
workspaces. Daylight bulbs are good for reading.
• Life/Yearly Cost: Not only are there many different types of light bulbs available now, but there
is also a range of prices between the types. To help customers make the decision of which to
buy, help them compare the yearly cost as well as the life of the bulbs they’re considering. For
example, LEDs have a higher initial cost, but they last longer and use less energy than other types
of bulbs.
• Energy Used: Watts are the true measure of a bulb’s energy usage. Use this number when
comparing different types of bulbs.
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study guide: Electrical
Chapter 2: Rough Electrical
Module 1: Wire & Cable
Product Knowledge:
Wire
• Wire refers to a single electrical conductor.
• Different from cable, which refers to two or more wires or conductors grouped together
in a jacket.
• Copper or tinned copper is the most common conductor in home wiring because it has
minimum resistance at reasonable cost.
• Wire is grouped by gauge number, running from 0000 to No. 40. The smaller the
number, the thicker the wire. Common sizes are 10, 12 and 14.
• Larger wire carries more current. Forcing too much current through a wire will cause it to
overheat and trip a breaker.
• Grounding wire provides a path of least resistance from the frame or case of an
appliance to the ground to guard against electric shocks. Both two- and three-conductor
cables can carry grounding wires.
• Wire is also characterized by letters that correspond to the insulation type and electrical
capacity. For example, T means the cable is thermoplastic insulated, H means it is heat
resistant. For a listing of some of the more common letters, see the appendix.
Cable
• Refers to a collection of two or more strands of wire or conductors. Basically, cable has
a “hot” line to carry the current and a “neutral” line to complete the loop. It often has a
third wire that acts as a grounding wire.
• Classified according to the number of wires it contains and their size or gauge.
• Two-conductor cable contains one black wire and one white wire. The black
wire is always the “hot” wire and must be fused. The white is always neutral and
must never be fused. When current bridges the gap from the 110V hot wire to the
neutral, it results in an 110V input to the appliance.
• Three-conductor cable contains a red wire in addition to black and white. The
black and red wires are “hot,” carrying 110V each, and both must be fused.
The white remains neutral. This three-wire circuit is increasingly common in
home wiring; it accommodates major 220V appliances, such as ranges and air
conditioners.
Cable labeling
• Cable are classified with a variety of numbers and letters, usually printed on the packaging
and the cable itself.
• All cables are marked with two numbers, separated by a dash or slash. The first number
indicates the gauge of wire and the number following the dash indicates the number of
individual wires in the cable. So a 14/2 cable indicates there are two, 14-gauge wires inside
the cable.
• Cables are also marked with a series of letters. These indicate the type of insulation, or
jacket, covering the wires. The most common jackets are NM-B (Non-Metallic Building
Indoor), UF-B (Underground Feed) and BX which is flexible metallic cable.
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• If the designator “G” follows the series it means that the cable is also equipped with
a non-current-carrying ground wire. Hence, the designator USE 12-3/G indicates an
underground cable containing three separately insulated wires capable of carrying 20
amps of current plus a grounding wire.
• There are several types of configurations of cable for use in conducting electricity:
• BX cable is armored metallic cable. It consists of two or three insulated wires
individually wrapped in spiral layers of paper. The steel casing acts as a ground wire.
There is also a bond wire included in the casing that acts as a ground if the casing
breaks.
• Non-metallic (NM) cable is a flat, thermoplastic jacket surrounding two or three
wires. Each wire is wrapped in insulation and a spiral paper tape. Type NM means
it can be used indoors. Type NMC means it can be used indoors or outdoors.
Sometimes referred to as Romex® cable.
• Underground Feeder cable is a non-metallic cable suitable for use underground
outdoors. Also known as type UF.
Thermostat Cable
• Used in low-voltage control, alarm and communication systems. Most common types
are braided, twisted and plastic-jacketed types. All three use solid copper conductors and
are twisted and insulated with plastic.
• Although thermostat cable is low voltage, it carries an UL-listing for being flameretardant, since it is installed in the wall. Wiring used in security alarm and smoke
detection systems must be UL-listed.
• Twisted cable, which has no outer braid, is used in doorbells, burglar alarms, intercom
telephones and public address systems.
• Braided cable is covered with cotton braid and is used primarily in thermostat controls
and other low-voltage, remote control circuits.
Lamp Cord
• Use for wiring or replacing wiring in lamps, radios and other small appliances.
• Consists of stranded copper wires in a PVC jacket.
• Flexible and easy to use.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: If there is a short in the line, where should I look for it?
A: Search for loose taped wire; also look for worn fabric insulation on old wires and check any terminals that
have multiple wires since one of the wires may have slipped off.
Q: Can I use 14-gauge wire for putting two more outlets in my garage?
A: While 14-gauge wire is the minimum for most house wiring, it can only be used for 15A circuits. Number
12-gauge wire is recommended for general home use. There is often a chart on boxes of wire that will show you
recommended gauges for specific applications.
Q: What should I use to connect the wires for an underground cable in my lawn?
A: You can use waterproof wire nuts if you do not have a waterproof box.
Q: How is UF electric wire different from regular Romex cable?
A: If you lay cable underground, it must be UF (underground feed) cable, which has each individual wire insulated
and has plastic wound around the insulated wire for weather and sunlight protection. Romex has a paper product
around the wires.
Q: What type of wire should I use for a 220V outlet?
A: The best choice is a three-wire cable with a ground. Also, make sure it’s rated for the amperage you need.
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Add-on Items
• Customers will need tools like wire strippers and lineman’s pliers when working
with cable.
• Ask the customer if he or she has enough wire connectors and electrical tape for the
making the final connections.
• Suggest wire staples for keeping cable attached to joists and rafters.
• A fish tape will help when running cable through walls.
• Finally, suggest a quality flashlight to help customers who might be installing cable in
dark attics or basements.
Module 2: Conduit & Fittings
Product Knowledge:
Thin-Wall Conduit
• Steel pipe used to carry house wiring in places where wiring would otherwise be
exposed.
• Comes in inside diameters of 1/2” to 4”. 1/2” is most common.
• Do not use underground.
• Also known as EMT (electric metallic tubing).
Heavy-Wall Conduit
• Use for carrying wire outdoors and underground.
• Comes in the same sizes as EMT but has thicker walls.
• Has threaded ends for connections.
• Also known as rigid conduit.
Plastic Conduit
• Best for burying underground as it will not corrode with water.
• Easy to use.
• Use inside and outside.
• Both rigid and flexible types are available.
• One type is Liquidtight, which is watertight.
Greenfield Conduit
• Use for installing wiring in the home.
• Also known as flex conduit.
• A hollow spiral metal jacket that resembles BX cable.
Conduit Connectors
• Used to connect lengths of conduit.
• Can make straight or bent connections.
• Elbows for plastic conduit allow a run of conduit to change direction in a sweeping curve,
rather than a sharp 90° angle, which make it easier to pull wires through.
• An adapter is used to connect two different types of conduit, or to join it to an outlet or
junction box.
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• Metal conduit may have threaded couplings of straight and elbow connectors.
• Metal conduit may also fasten conduit together using a set screw.
• Use a clamp-type connector to terminate a run of flexible metal conduit or armored
cable. One end holds the cable while the other end screws into the knockout hole on an
electrical box.
• Bend metal conduit to a 90º curve using a conduit bender.
LB Fitting
• Generally, use outside at the point where the conduit leaves the house.
• Connects at a 90º angle.
• Has thick gaskets to make it impervious to moisture.
• This fitting should not be used to make wire connections.
Conduit Fasteners
• Use to fasten conduit to a wall or other framing member.
• Staples can be used to fasten conduit or bare cable.
• Straps and hangers are two other types of conduit fasteners.
Wire Channels
• Metal or plastic channels used to house wiring installed on the surface, instead of behind walls.
• Also known as raceway.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I create a bend or a turn in conduit?
A: You can use a connection fitting, much the same way you would use a plumbing fitting, or you can bend the
conduit with a conduit bender.
Q: Do I need a special kind of fitting for outdoor conduit?
A: Use a fitting with covers and gaskets, made especially for outdoor use.
Q: Can I bury electrical cable directly under the ground without conduit?
A: Always check local codes. But generally, UF cable (underground feeder and branch-circuit cable) may be
buried without conduit. It is rated for dry, damp, wet or corrosive locations. Do not embed it in concrete. NM (or
nonmetallic-sheathed cable) should not be buried due to damage from moisture. Use plastic conduit if you want
to bury a conduit to carry an electrical line. Make sure the joints are waterproof.
Q: How do I seal connections I make with plastic conduit?
A: Use PVC cement found in the plumbing department.
Add-on Items
• Suggest a wire stripper for working with wire.
• Anyone doing electrical work should have a pair of lineman’s pliers, so make sure your customer has one.
• Ask your customer if he or she has enough wire connectors to finish the job.
• Electrical tape is another item your customer may need on a frequent basis.
• Show the customer where to find a box of screws for attaching conduit hangers.
• Anyone installing conduit is likely to need electrical boxes to finish the project.
• Pro customers will use a conduit bender to make bends in metal conduit.
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Module 3: Circuit Protection & Fuses
Product Knowledge:
Plug Fuse
• A safety device that breaks an electrical circuit when it is overloaded.
• Also known as an Edison base fuse, plug-in fuse or glass fuse.
• The most commonly used fuse. Available in 5A to 30A sizes.
• It has a threaded base like a light bulb and a small window to view a metal linkage.
Electricity flows through the linkage. When the circuit is overloaded, the linkage melts
and turns black, cutting off the flow of electricity through it. The fuse then must be
replaced.
Type S Fuse
• Similar in design and use to a plug fuse. However, it prevents anyone from replacing a
lower-rated fuse with a higher one.
• Also known as Fustats® or Nontamperable
• Has two parts: the fuse and the adapter. The adapter has a different diameter for each fuse
ampere rating. Once the adapter of a particular size fuse has been inserted into the fuse
socket, it cannot be removed. Only fuses with the same rating can be used in that socket.
Cartridge Fuse
• Used in high-current applications, such as in the main service box and in clamp- or bar-type
fuse boxes that serve electric ranges, water heaters, clothes dryers and air conditioners.
• Unlike plug fuses, you cannot tell if the fuse is blown by merely looking at it.
• Use a special pair of pliers known as fuse pullers to remove these fuses.
• Cartridges fuses for circuits above 60A are also known as knife-blade cartridges. They
have metal caps and blades sticking out of each end.
• Cartridges fuses for circuits 60A or less are also known as ferrule contact or round
cartridge fuses. They look like rifle cartridges with plain, capped ends.
Time Delay Fuse
• Similar in appearance to a plug fuse.
• Provides a minimum time delay for small household motors that cause an electrical surge
when started. That surge would cause a regular fuse to blow needlessly.
Circuit Breaker
• Contains a bi-metal strip that breaks the circuit when a current exceeds a predetermined rating.
• A breaker indicates a broken circuit when the switch is in the mid-point, or tripped, position.
• Toggle is the most common style.
• Breakers can be single or double. Single breakers are usually rated at 15A or 20A, which
is the electrical load the breaker can bear. They supply power to a 120V circuit.
• Double breakers are usually rated for 15 to 200 amp capacity. They can supply power to
a 120V or 240V circuit.
• Reset the circuit breaker after correcting the overload problem. Switch it to the off
position, then to the on position.
• Not all circuit breakers are interchangeable. Check to be sure the circuit breaker you are
selling is interchangeable with the breaker the customer wants to replace.
• Some have the option of a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI). These will protect the
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Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter
• An arc fault occurs when the insulation surrounding wire and cable is damaged or
deteriorates. The arc fault can flare at temperatures in excess of 10,000º F and ignite
surrounding combustible material.
• Standard circuit breakers do not respond quickly enough to arc faults. An arc fault circuit
interrupter (AFCI) recognizes an arcing fault and acts instantly.
• The National Electrical Code® (NEC) requires AFCIs be used in new construction on all
bedroom circuits, family rooms, dining rooms, closets and hallways.
• A combination AFCI/GFCI circuit breaker protects against electrical fires and dangerous
electrical shock hazards. It also simplifies the installation process for electrical
contractors, since there is no need to wire two separate devices.
Circuit Breaker Box
• A metal cabinet with slots to hold a series of circuit breakers.
• Also called the electrical house panel, service panel or load center.
• Usually installed near the main service entrance of the house.
• Inside the box, bus bars receive power from an outside power source. These bars
distribute the power to the circuit breakers.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: I need a circuit breaker, but I don’t have it with me. Are they all the same?
A: No, it’s best if you bring in the old breaker and match it up. If you know the name of the brand of service box,
we could also match it that way.
Q: I have a circuit breaker that tripped. Is this dangerous?
A: Usually the problem is simply an overload and you only need to run fewer appliances on the circuit. However, if it
is not overloaded and it keeps tripping, you should suspect a short. Also, look for a defective cord, socket or plug.
Q: Is it all right to replace a fuse or circuit breaker with a larger one to prevent them from blowing
or tripping?
A: In most cases the answer is no. They are designed to blow at certain levels to protect equipment and for fire safety.
Q: What is a ground fault circuit interrupter?
A: It’s a safety device that shuts off the power if a wire in an outlet develops a ground fault that could electrocute
someone. This hazard is so serious that the National Electrical Code requires all new homes be equipped with
them in the bathroom, kitchen, workroom, outdoor, basement, garage and swimming pool circuits.
Q: Can I add more circuits to the empty slots left on my circuit breaker box?
A: You need to see how many amps your box is rated for and then look at the existing circuits to see how many
total amps are already being used. If you have not reached the maximum, it’s possible to add more, but it’s best
to have a professional do the work inside the box unless you have the specific knowledge.
Add-on Items
• Suggest a fuse puller, which is a tool for pulling and changing cartridge fuses.
• A circuit breaker padlock could be useful if the customer needs to lock a breaker in an on or off position.
These still allow the breaker to trip if necessary.
• Ask if the customer needs a flashlight to help in replacing the blown fuse or circuit.
• Your customer might also need a circuit tester or continuity tester to ensure the circuit is working properly.
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Module 4: Electrical Boxes
Product Knowledge:
Wall Box
• Used for housing switches and receptacles.
• Made of metal or plastic and have the capability to be mounted to a wall or stud.
• The holes in the side of the box where the conduit enters the box are called knockouts.
In metal boxes, conduit can also be secured to the holes.
• Gang refers to how many components the box will hold. A 2-gang box, for example, will
hold two components side-by-side.
• 4” square and shallow boxes are other types only 1-1/2“ or 2”deep for places too
shallow to mount a standard box.
• A handy box is surface mounted and has rounded corners for safety.
• An old work box has expandable arms and can be mounted after drywall has been
hung. It is usually plastic.
• A new work box is best for new installation and often has a nail built-in for quick
attachment to the stud. It is usually plastic.
• A gem box is a commonly made box, usually 2” wide, 3”high and 2-1/2” deep and made
of metal. Deeper boxes are available.
Ceiling Box
• Used to anchor ceiling fixtures and serves as a junction box where wires can meet and
run to other areas of the room.
• Also known as a junction box or splice box.
• They are either 4” octagonal or round shaped, and either 1-1/2” or 2-1/8” deep.
• They also may include adjustable mounting hangers that attach to rafters in the ceiling
and allow the box to be placed anywhere between.
• Hangers also provide the short nipple or threaded rod that secures lighting fixtures.
Weatherproof Box
• Used for exterior switches or receptacles.
• Also known as an outdoor box.
• Thicker than interior boxes and has a rubber gasket between the cover and the box to
keep out water.
• Covers are screw-on or snap-on.
Wall Plates
• A flat metal, plastic or wooden piece that covers the openings in the wall made by
receptacles and switches.
• Also known as faceplates or covers.
• The openings in the cover match the type and number of receptacles or switches being
covered. Blank covers are also available.
• This is often a fashion item. Customers may want to replace existing wall plates with
plates of a particular color or design to complement the décor of a room.
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Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: I am installing a ceiling fan; do I need a special electrical box?
A: Yes, special saddle boxes are designed for hanging heavy fixtures—up to about 50 lbs. Since a ceiling fan
moves, these boxes are good for about a 35-lb. ceiling fan.
Q: Is there a special receptacle I should install outside?
A: Yes, there is a special box with a cover designed for protection from the elements. In addition, the receptacle
should have ground-fault circuit-interrupt protection.
Q: Does it matter whether I use a plastic or metal box?
A: Your choice will depend on local codes. Using a box that is not up to code and causes a fire may cause your
homeowners fire insurance to be invalidated.
Add-on Items
• Ask your customer if he or she has enough of the proper type of electrical cable to complete the project.
• Remind the customer to pick up extra wire connectors or electrical tape so they don’t
run out.
• If the customer needed an extra electrical box, it’s likely he or she needs extra switches
or receptacles, so suggest those too.
• Ask if your customer has all of the proper tools, such as wire strippers and
screwdrivers for the installation.
• A keyhole saw is another useful tool used during installation of an electrical box.
Module 5: Switches & Receptacles
Product Knowledge:
Single-Pole Switch
• Controls power to lights and devices by turning off the hot side of the circuit.
• Mounts in an electrical box.
• Has two brass terminal screws and one green grounding screw.
• Controls current from one circuit from one point.
• Has “on” and “off” markings.
Double-Pole Switch
• Unlike the single-pole switch, it can control two separate circuits.
• Can control a 240V circuit.
• Has four terminal screws (usually brass and black colored) and a grounding screws.
• Has “on” and “off” markings.
Three-Way Switch
• Controls power to lights and devices by turning off the hot side of the circuit.
• Mounted in an electrical box.
• It may also include a green grounding screw.
• The three-way switch has three terminal screws, one dark and two brass colored. It
controls one circuit from two separate points, for example, a light that can be turned on
in either the house or garage.
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Four-Way Switch
• Used in connection with three-way switches to control one circuit from three or more points.
• Has four terminal screws (two dark and two brass colored) and may have a green
grounding screw.
• It does not have “on” and “off” markings, as multiple switches control a single circuit.
Dimmer Switch
• Controls the amount of current in a light circuit and allows for varying levels of light.
• Usually may be installed in place of standard switches.
• They are available in a variety of types, including rotary, toggle and slide.
• Dimmers may also interfere with radios and TVs and cause the light bulb to hum. Some
dimmers are manufactured with a filter that eases this problem.
Specialty Switches
• A rocker switch operates the same as a standard switch, but instead of a toggle, it
operates with a rocker action. Some might include an illuminated switch, where a small
light is on when the switch is off so it can be easily found; these are usually used at
entrances to rooms and in hallways.
• A delayed action switch keeps the circuit open for a few minutes after the switch is
turned off. A good use is in a garage where, after the user turns off the switch, it allows
the light to remain on in time to exit.
• A photoelectric switch operates with a photoelectric cell. It turns off during the day and
turns on during the night.
• A motion switch turns on the light as you enter the room. Good for both convenience
and security.
Line Switch
• Used to interrupt the flow of electricity on cords, most often for lamps and appliances.
• A variety of styles are available, and they can operate with a toggle, rotary or push-button action.
Receptacle
• Taps the electrical circuit to provide power at a given location.
• Available in flush- or surface-mounted designs.
• A single- or double-wipe contact refers to the area of the inserted prong where the
contact is made.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Receptacle
• Often abbreviated GFCI, it’s also known as a GFI or ground fault interrupter.
• Use to protect against ground faults, which occur when a person comes into contact
with a live electrical wire. This may be caused by worn insulation on a wire or by
operating a faulty appliance or power tool. They can be installed as a receptacle or at the
main power panel.
• The GFCI interrupts power quickly enough to help prevent a lethal dose of electricity.
• To turn the GFCI back on after it trips, push the reset button located in the middle of the switch.
• The National Electrical Code requires that all new homes have GFCI receptacles the
bathroom, kitchen, workroom,, basement, garage, swimming pool area and outdoors.
13
Appliance Receptacle
• Used for heavy-duty plugs and appliances.
• Contains vertical and slanted slots in various configurations.
• Configurations are different, so make sure the customer has either the plug he wants to
use with the receptacle or knows the exact configuration.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: My dimmer switch feels warm. Is that safe?
A: It is normal for a dimmer to get warm during operation, and they have a built-in heat sink for that very reason.
Always be sure the load on the switch does not exceed its rating.
Q: How can I fix the dryer plug that will not fit the receptacle in our new house?
A: In most new homes, there should be four-prong dryer and range receptacles. If you have a three-prong power
cord, you will need to change it.
Q: What type of switches will I need to turn a light on from two different locations?
A: You will need a three-way switch at each location. A three-way switch will have three terminal screws on it:
two brass colored screws and one that is black (or dark in color).
Q: Is there a special receptacle I should install outside?
A: Yes, there is a special box with a cover designed for protection against the elements. In addition, the receptacle should also have ground-fault circuit-interrupt protection.
Q: Can I add additional outlets to an existing circuit?
A: You need to figure the current circuit load in watts to see if it can handle additional use. The National Electric
Code is 20 percent less than maximum. This means a 15-amp circuit has a safe capacity of 1,440 watts. A 20amp circuit’s limit is 1,920 watts, a 25-amp circuit’s limit is 2,400 watts and a 30-amp circuit has a safe limit of
2,880 watts.
Add-on Items
• See if the customer has all of the necessary tools for the project, such as a screwdriver, a circuit tester and
a wire stripper.
• Electrical tape and wire connectors are two items the customer may run out of during the project, so suggest he or she pick up some extra.
• Make sure the customer has enough covers for the switch or receptacle.
14
Module 6: Plugs and Connectors
Product Knowledge:
Plug
• Connects to the power supply through the receptacle.
• Available in polarized and non-polarized versions. In the polarized version, one blade is
larger than the other to help reduce the potential for shock.
• Can use to build extension cords or to replace plugs on appliances or power tools or
other devices requiring a plug.
• Three conductor plugs have three blades, one of which is a grounding pin.
• Large appliances have plugs with specific configurations.
Connector
• The opposite of a plug. It has slots or openings on the inside designed to receive plugs.
• Technically known as a female receptacle.
• Larger appliances have special configurations (often called NEMA configurations). The
configuration of the slots must match the configuration of the prongs on the plug.
Adapter • The socket adapter screws into light sockets to adapt them for use as an outlet while
keeping the function of a light socket.
• Also known as a current tap or socket switch.
• Some models have a switch or pull chain that turns off the bulb without turning off the outlets.
• Another variation is the plug body, which adapts a light socket for use as a single outlet.
• Twin light adapter adapts a single light socket to a double light socket. It is Y shaped and
holds bulbs at an angle from one another.
• The socket adapter adapts a receptacle for use as a light socket.
Grounding Adapter
• It allows you to use a plug with three prongs in a receptacle that has only two slots.
• Cube-shaped plastic or rubber.
• Has a small U-shaped piece that is to be attached to the screw in the middle of the receptacle.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I cut off the third prong on a plug so it will fit into an outlet that only have two holes?
A: No, the third prong is the grounding prong. If you cut it off or use a plug adapter that is not grounded, you will
disable a feature that is designed to protect against electrical shock. Use a three-pronged plug adapter, but realize
it will only protect you against electrical shock if the grounding adapter is properly installed and the wall plate
screw is grounded.
Q: Why do some appliances and tools only have two prongs and no grounding prong?
A: These products are “double-insulated” and do not need the added protection of a grounding plug. You can
plug them into ungrounded outlets and still be protected.
15
Q: Why is there a T-shaped slot on some outlets?
A: It identifies the outlet as a 20A grounded receptacle and it should be used only on 20A circuits.
Q: Is it easy to replace a faulty plug?
A: Yes, start by snipping off the original plug. Slide the cord into the new plug, strip the wires and connect them
to the proper terminals. For lamps and small appliances there are quick-connect plugs. The snipped wire is inserted and a small lever is closed, which holds and pierces the wire to make the connection.
Q: What is a polarized plug?
A: One prong is bigger than the other. This feature is designed to make sure that a 110V plug is never put into a
socket that is not a 110V outlet.
Add-on Items
• Electrician’s pliers for cutting the cord on their tool or appliance.
• A wire stripper for preparing the cord for the new plug or connector.
• A screwdriver for tightening the final connections.
16
study guide: Electrical
Chapter 3: Electrical Fixtures
Module 1: Interior Lighting
Product Knowledge:
Decorative Light Fixture
• Styles vary widely, but the basic purpose is to hold a light bulb such as an incandescent,
compact fluorescent, halogen or LED bulb with a screw-in type base. Fixtures can be
mounted on a stand, on the wall or on the ceiling.
• The basic wall or ceiling fixture mounts onto an electrical box. The most common type
of box contains a threaded stud (or threaded rod) that attaches to the fixture with a part
called a hickey. Or, instead of a threaded stud, the fixture may use a crossbar hanger.
• Various styles of lights can be used for four basic purposes: task lighting (to illuminate
specific areas for activities such as reading or preparing food), ambient lighting (for
general illumination of a room), accent lighting (focused, directional light generally on
artwork or architectural features), and utility lighting (used to flood an area with light,
often outdoors or in work areas).
Fluorescent Fixture
• Used to house fluorescent lamps.
• One of the critical components is the ballast. The principle function of the ballast is to
hold operating current within proper limits and provide enough voltage to start the lamp.
Older style fixtures use magnetic ballasts, while newer fixtures using high-efficiency
bulbs use electronic ballasts.
• Lamps using instant-start ballasts provide sufficient voltage to start fluorescent lamps
without preheating and are commonly used with single-pin lamps and some special
lamp types.
• Lamps with rapid-start ballasts heat the cathodes continuously from a low-voltage
transformer within the ballast. This is the most common type of ballast in use today for
40W lamps and for all lamps that use recessed double-contact bases.
• Older fluorescent fixtures use starters, which is a small silver-colored cylinder that aids
in turning on the bulb.
Task Lamp
• Provides localized light for specific activities such as reading, writing, sewing and food
preparation.
• The light should cover the entire task area and be located so shadows are reduced to a minimum.
• Available in a wide variety of styles.
Track Lighting
• A system of movable lights wired to a metal track that makes a great accent lighting
choice for living rooms, bedrooms and dining rooms.
• Available in many colors, sizes and shapes, is easy to install and flexible since the
lights can be moved around and repositioned.
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Lamp Holder
• Used to hold light sockets where design is not a concern. Often used in garages or
basements, or as a temporary fixture.
• One type has a pull chain to turn it on. The other, a keyless lampholder, does not have a chain.
• Typically a round porcelain fixture with a socket with prewired leads ready for connecting
to a circuit. It also has screw holes for mounting it to a box.
• Another type is the pigtail. It is merely a socket with wire leads and without a fixture. It
is also used for temporary lighting or for testing.
Undercabinet Lights
• These lights are often used for task lighting, accent lighting or night lights.
• Many types use LED or fluorescent lights, which consume low energy.
• Common configurations include strip lights and puck lights.
Recessed Light
• Also known as a can light.
• Installed with the fixture flush with the surface, rather than hanging down. • Provides ambient lighting.
• Ideal for rooms with low ceilings and can be used to supplement existing light in
kitchens and bathrooms.
• These lights should be rated I.C., meaning insulation contact. This means they are safe
to install in insulated ceilings.
• Non-I.C. rated lights may overheat if they touch surrounding insulation. This may cause
the lights to “blink”, or shut off when they overheat.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I troubleshoot a fluorescent fixture that doesn’t light?
A: It’s probably not the bulb because they rarely go bad all at once. Wiggle the tube to make sure it is seated. Replace
any damaged lamp holders. Replace the starter. Check the switch and outlet box to make sure it is getting power.
Q: What’s causing my fluorescent fixture to hum?
A: The ballast probably needs to be replaced. Another sign of a faulty ballast is black tar-like substance oozing
from the fixture.
Q: How do I know the size ballast I need for a fluorescent fixture?
A: You need to know how many bulbs there are and how long they are. However, make sure you check the
starter before you change the ballast. In fact, you may want to replace the whole fixture.
Q: How do I check the starter in the fluorescent fixture?
A: Older, delayed-start fluorescent lights flicker when they first light up. If this lasts more than a couple of
seconds, make sure the starter is seated by pushing it in and turning clockwise. If the ends of the tube light up
and the middle does not, the starter is bad. Remove it by turning counterclockwise.
Add-on Items
• Help the customer find the right type of light bulbs he or she will need for the new light.
• If you sell the customer a lamp, recommend a timer for using with the new light.
• Customers buying a lamp may also need an extension cord so they can place the lamp anywhere in the room.
• A customer installing a fixture will need wire nuts to complete the project.
• For safety, recommend the customer use a voltage tester to double check that the circuit is off before handling wires.
• The customer may need a wire stripper to prepare wires for installing the light.
• Other tools that will be useful for this project include a screwdriver and a pair of needle-nose pliers.
18
Module 2: Exterior Lighting
Product Knowledge:
Decorative Outdoor Lights
• Serve both a security and decorative function.
• Available as wall, ceiling or post fixtures to accent architectural features. Available in a
variety of styles.
• Fixtures to be used outdoors must seal moisture and dust from wiring and switches.
Fixtures with photocells provide automatic activation from dusk to dawn.
Security Lights
• Spotlights or floodlights are used for security. They can also be used with a colored lens
as decorative lighting. Weatherproof sockets are essential because the fixture may be
mounted on the ground and pointed upward. Other fixtures mount on a wall.
• Motion lights use sensors that activate the light when they detect heat and motion up to
40’ away. They can attach to a power pack and mount on walls or fences 6’ to 8’ above
the ground.
• Residential lights typically use spotlights or halogen bulbs.
• Commercial lights use High-Intensity Discharge (HID) systems, which provide considerably greater illumination than other lighting types. HID bulb types include mercury, metal
halide and high-pressure sodium bulbs.
Low-Voltage Lights
• Safe for many outdoor lighting applications, including illuminating landscaping features
around the home or for lighting pathways and steps.
• Because of the low voltage, usually around 12V, users will not receive an electric shock
even if they touch the bare wires or cut a buried cable with a garden tool. Consequently, these systems are harmless to children and pets and do not require cables to be
buried.
• A power pack is the heart of the low-voltage system and should be located outdoors by
installing a weatherproof outlet cover to keep snow and rain out. Power packs typically
range from 88W capacity up to 900W capacity.
• Remote photo control automatically turns lights on at dark and off during daylight hours.
• May use one of several types of bulbs. Bayonet base bulbs feature a copper base that
twists into the fixture socket.
• The wedge base bulb plugs into the socket. Halogen lamps provide the most energy efficiency.
• Available in a variety of styles, such as globe lights that cast light in all directions and
designed for use along pathways, or deck lights designed to fit under steps, benches
and railings.
Solar Lights
• Often used for pathway and accent lighting.
• Use a battery charged through a solar panel contained on the light fixture during the day.
• Typically, a fully charged solar light can remain on for up to 15 hours.
• Also comes in a variety of styles and sizes.
• Easy to install.
19
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How deep should a cable be buried underground?
A: It should be at least 18”, but 24” is preferable. Always use type UF cable for underground installation.
Q: What are the benefits of low-voltage lighting?
A: These lights are energy efficient, easy and safe to install, and they add aesthetic appeal and security to your home.
Q: Where are some good places to place security lights?
A: Place a combination of flood lights and pathway lighting around garages, the backyard and along walkways.
Add-on Items
• Suggest a wired-in timer switch for use with lights that will be used for security.
• Help the customer find the right light bulb to use with the new light fixture.
• If a customer is installing the wiring for a new light fixture, he or she will need conduit for running the new circuit.
• Depending on the type of conduit your customer is using, also suggest conduit adapters and weatherproof elbows.
• For installing a low-voltage system, the customer may also need a weatherproof box for a receptacle for the
new line.
• Add-ons like electrical tape and wire connectors are something you can sell with most any wiring project.
Module 3: Fans
Product Knowledge:
Ceiling Fan
• Creates a gentle indoor breeze and supports heating and air conditioning systems by using less energy than a 100W light bulb requires.
• Typical sizes are 36”, 42”, 48” and 52”, and some industrial models are as large as 56”
to 72”.
• Many models combine the fan with a light fixture.
• Most ceiling fans have variable speed controls.
• Standard mounting kits are available for ceilings as low as 8’ and close to-the-ceiling
models can be used on 7’-6” high ceilings.
• Blades may be wood, metal or plastic.
• Heavy motor housing will aid fan efficiency as the additional mass gains more momentum, reducing the energy necessary to keep the fan in motion.
• Some models are designed to be used outdoors on covered porches and patios. These
models have sealed motors so moisture won’t get inside.
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Bath Exhaust Fan
• Used primarily to extract stale air from a bathroom.
• Bathroom fans may come with an optional light or heater and are used to expel steam
and odors from the rooms.
• Should carry certified sound ratings developed by the Home Ventilating Institute and its
member manufacturers. Ratings are in steps of 0.5 sones and 10 (CFM) cubic feet per
minute. Limits for sound outputs are 6.5 sones for bathroom fans.
• Fans are also rated by how much air the fan can move I a minute. This is measured in
CFM, or cubic feet per minute. A fan with a higher CFM means odors and humidity will
move out of the room faster. The fan should be sized according to the size of room. 1
CFM per 1 sq. ft. of bathroom space (assuming an 8’ ceiling) is recommended.
• Some models are designed to look like a standard ceiling light, with vent openings
around the trim of the fixture.
Kitchen Range Hood • Comes in many styles and is used to draw grease, heat, steam, smoke, odor and hazardous gasses away from the stove and out of the kitchen.
• A switch simultaneously starts the fan and opens an outside vent.
• A complete system consists of a hood, a blower system and ducting.
• Downdraft models are built into the stove of surrounding counter and are less efficient
than updraft hoods.
• Updraft hoods hang above the cooktop and easily vent air outdoors.
• An island range hood is used for stoves that are part of cabinet islands. They are suspended from the ceiling.
• Should carry certified sound ratings developed by the Home Ventilating Institute and its
member manufacturers. Ratings are in steps of 0.5 sones and 10 (CFM) cubic feet per
minute. Limits for sound outputs are 9 sones for kitchen fans up to 500 cfm.
• Like bath exhaust fans, kitchen range hoods are rated by CFM, or how much air they can
move in an hour. A good rule of thumb is 40 CFM for every linear foot of range. For example, a 3’ range would need a range hood with at least 120 CFM. If the customer has a
gas cooktop, recommend 1 CFM for every 100 BTUs of stove power.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: My ceiling fan wobbles, what should I do?
A: If a wood blade is warped, it will wobble. Correct this problem by installing adhesive-backed weights to the
blades. Operating at faster speeds may also cause humming or clicking noises with some models.
Q: What setting on my reversible ceiling fan should I use in the winter?
A: Use the down draft setting in the summer, and the updraft setting in the winter.
Q: Why should I put a vent fan in my bathroom?
A: Bath fans help eliminate odors but also clear away steam that causes steamy mirrors and windows after bathing or showering. Walls damp with steam build-up can result in mold, mildew, wood rot and ruined insulation.
Q: What size exhaust fan do I need for my bathroom?
A: Bigger is always better when it comes to exhaust fans. A general rule of thumb, however, is that you want
at least 1 CFM per square foot of bathroom area. CFM stands for cubic feet per minute, or the measurement of
how fast a fan can move air. Calculate the minimum CFM for your bathroom using this formula: Length x Width x
Height x 0.13 = minimum CFM rating.
Q: What size of range hood should I get?
A: Standard hood sizes are 30”, 36” and 42”. The hood should be at least as wide as your stovetop. Also use
the rule of 40 CFM for every linear foot of range, or 1 CFM for every 100 BTUs for a gas stove.
21
Upselling Skills
• Style is a major consideration when buying a ceiling fan. Best models feature quality cast-iron motor housings,
pull chain switches, reversible motion and precision pitched blades that maximize air movement.
• Some ceiling fans have remote controls that control both the fan speed and direction as well as the lighting.
• For convenience, some better bath exhaust fan models have humidity and motion sensors that turn the fan on
automatically. Some types even have a heater built-in to the unit to help take the chill out of the bathroom.
• Higher end models of range hoods have features that make them easier to maintain and use. Some of the features
to point out to customers include range hoods with automatic shutoffs, lighting to help illuminate the cooking area,
and a heat sensor that automatically adjusts the blower depending on the heat coming from the cooktop. Some
range hoods also have self-cleaning or a filterless operation that can be programmed to clean themselves.
Add-on Sales
• Common tools needed to install a ceiling fan or exhaust fan include a screwdriver, lineman’s pliers and electrical tester.
• Also suggest the customer pick up extra wire connectors and electrical tape.
• Check to see what kind of light bulbs the customer needs for the fan, then recommend the appropriate type.
• Customers buying a kitchen exhaust fan will need a filter.
• For those customers making a new installation of an exhaust fan, suggest the supplies needed to duct the
exhaust to the outside, including flexible metal ductwork, A roof cap or wall cap and mounting hardware. This
may be sold in a kit.
22
study guide: Electrical
Chapter 4: Electrical Tools
Module 1: Work Lights & Flashlights
Product Knowledge:
Worklights
• Portable light with heavy-duty features such as wire grill guard, weatherproof on/off
switch and tempered glass covering the light. Designed to be used on the jobsite.
• Some models come with an adjustable stand.
• Depending on the type, uses either a halogen or LED bulb.
Trouble Lights
• Have a strict standard for safety. All lamps with metal guards must be permanently
grounded to the guard. Some lamps have plastic guards that solve the grounding
problem, reduce heat build-up and prevent scratching of painted surfaces.
• Some models do not have built-in cords. These models attach to a user’s extension cord
and are easy to store and convenient to use.
• In all cases, handles must be tightly fitted to the cage and meet crush-resistance testing
and heat-factor requirements.
Clamp Lights
• Basic work light with a clamp and adjustable head to allow it to be moved anywhere and
pointed directly at the work area.
• Uses screw-in type bulbs.
• Aluminum reflector spreads the light.
Flashlight
• Available in a variety of sizes and styles, for a variety of tasks. Some have features
tailored to sporting, outdoor use, while other are made for using around the home.
• Most use either AA, AAA or D cell batteries.
• A flashlight’s brightness is determined by how many lumens it produces: The more
lumens, the brighter the light.
• Different flashlights also project light in different ways. For example, some produce a
narrow beam of light while others produce a wide beam.
• Multi-mode flashlights have different settings to change the beam of light from high and
low beam. Adjustable flashlights allow the user to change between spotlight (narrow)
and floodlight (wide) beams.
• There are several different types of flashlight bulbs available:
• Incandescent: Flashlights have traditionally used incandescent bulbs with a tungsten
filament. This has the shortest life span of all types of flashlight bulbs. It is also the
least efficient in using the battery.
• Krypton: These flashlights use the incandescent bulb with a tungsten filament, but
instead of a vacuum as in traditional bulbs, fill the bulb chamber with krypton gas. As
a result, these bulbs last about twice as long as traditional incandescent bulbs.
• Xenon: Also an incandescent-type bulb, but the bulb is filled with xenon gas. This
bulb lasts longer than a krypton bulb, is very efficient and produces a clear, white light
compared to other incandescent bulbs.
23
• LED: Flashlights with LEDs (light emitting diodes) will last much longer and are more
efficient at using a battery than standard incandescent bulbs. LEDs do not have a
filament that will burn out. Instead, they use a semiconductor material. Since a single
LED does not produce much light, most flashlights have more than one LED. The
brightness and quality of the LED may differ according to the manufacturer. CREE,
LUXEON and NICHIA are common types.
Headlight
• Flashlight has an adjustable strap so that it can be worn on the user’s head so both
hands are free.
• Some models have multiple settings, including spot and flood.
• Available with either incandescent or LED bulbs.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What are some things to consider when buying a flashlight?
A: Some factors to consider include the size and weight of the flashlight, the type of battery it uses, how long it
will last on a single set of batteries and the type of light it produces.
Q: What type of beam should my flashlight have if I’m going camping?
A: A flashlight with a flood, or fixed, beam is good for general tasks around camp or for walking. The other common
option is a spot, or focused, beam. Use this type of flashlight to look long distances. If you’re not sure what type
would be best, try a light with an adjustable beam, meaning it can switch back and forth between flood and spot.
Q: What type of flashlight should I have in case of emergency?
A: You might want to consider an LED light. The bulb in this type of flashlight is less likely to break if it’s
accidentally dropped, and the bulb will last longer than incandescent types.
Upselling Skills
• Better flashlights may include a variety of features that may appeal to customers: anodized finish for corrosion
resistance, aluminum casing, a non-slip grip handle and sealed O-rings for water resistance.
• Also look for high and low light output modes. LED flashlights last longer and shine brighter than standard
flashlights.
• When helping customers choose a flashlight, remind them to factor in the cost of replacing batteries. A less
expensive flashlight may end up using more batteries in the long run. Recommend a flashlight that is efficient
and has a long bulb life. • Some flashlights have an impact resistance rating. The rating shows how high the flashlight can be dropped
multiple times onto concrete and still remain functional.
Add-on Items
• Customers using worklights will need an extension cord to extend the reach of the light.
• Unless they are buying an LED flashlight, anyone buying a flashlight will need extra batteries and a few
spare light bulbs.
24
Module 2: Batteries
Product Knowledge:
Alkaline Battery
• An all-purpose disposable battery used for high and continuous current drain applications.
• Disposable and operates well in low temperatures.
• Voltages range from 1.5V to 9V.
• Lasts as many as five years on the shelf.
Carbon Zinc Battery
• A disposable battery for use for low-drain devices.
• Has a short run time.
Lithium Battery
• A disposable battery used for high-drain devices, such as cameras, watches and other
items used repeatedly over a long period of time.
• Holds power for eight to 10 years on the shelf.
• Available in a range of voltages.
NiCad Battery
• A rechargeable battery that is best used for items that are used infrequently.
• They have a limited shelf life compared to other types of rechargeable batteries.
• NiCad stands for nickel-cadmium.
Lithium Ion Battery
• A rechargeable battery that offers a high-energy capacity for applications such as digital
cameras, portable power tools and camcorders.
• Has a longer shelf life than other rechargeable batteries.
• Lightweight.
• Tend to require more advanced chargers and may be more sensitive to overcharging than
other types of rechargeable batteries.
NiMH Battery
• A rechargeable battery good for devices that will be used frequently and require a lot of
energy.
• A good battery to use in low temperatures.
• More environmentally friendly than other types of batteries.
• Require more advanced chargers.
• NiMH stands for nickel metal hydride.
Specialty Batteries
• Used for electronic devices, such as watches and hearing aids, that require specialized
batteries. Batteries are labeled according to their intended use or size.
• Sometimes called button or coin cell batteries.
• Lower voltage than other battery types.
25
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Should I just throw away my old recyclable batteries?
A: No, you should recycle most batteries. This includes Nickel Cadmium (Ni-Cd), Nickel Metal Hydride (Ni-MH),
Lithium Ion (Li-ion) and small sealed Lead (Pb) batteries. You can look for a battery recycling seal on the rechargeable batteries found in cordless power tools, cellular and cordless telephones, laptop computers and camcorders.
Q: Is it OK to mix types of batteries in the same device?
A: It’s best not to mix types of batteries in the same device, it could be dangerous. It’s also best to avoid mixing
batteries from different manufacturers. Also, when you change batteries, change all of the batteries. Leaving old
batteries in with the new batteries will put increased strain on the old batteries and may cause them to leak.
Q: What type of battery should I use in a flashlight for an emergency kit?
A: Use a disposable battery rather than a rechargeable battery, because disposables have a longer shelf life. A
standard alkaline battery would be a good choice.
Q: What type of battery would you recommend for a motorized toy?
A: Consider a lithium or an NiMH battery. These types are good for devices where they will be frequently used
and where there will be high demand on their energy.
Q: What is a disposable battery I can use in extreme temperatures?
A: Use an alkaline battery. It will perform better in rough conditions.
Q: How can I get more life out of my batteries?
A: Remove them from devices that you won’t be using for a while. Be sure to turn completely off any batteryoperated appliances when they’re not in use. Always store batteries at room temperature without the contacts
touching each other or any metal pieces, such as paper clips or coins.
Add-on Items
• Finally, if a customer buys a rechargeable battery, ask if he or she needs a battery charger. Make sure the
charger will charge the size and type of battery the customer is purchasing.
Module 3: Timers
Product Knowledge:
Plug-In Timer
• Plugs into a standard wall receptacle to turn devices such as plug-in lamps and fans on
and off at preselected times.
• Helps lower energy costs because devices aren’t left on all the time. Also helps with
security, turning on lights at random times to create the appearance that someone is home.
• Mechanical timers are less precise in their on/off settings than digital timers but less
expensive.
• Digital timers offer the most exact timing, can control multiple appliances and have the
option of random settings.
• Outdoor plug-in timers have a weather-resistant housing that make them safe for using
outdoors to control devices such as outdoor lighting and holiday displays.
Timer Switch
• Automatically turns off after a preselected time.
• Spring wound and installed in place of an existing wall switch.
26
Programmable Switch
• Allows user to preset times for turning on and off lights or appliances such as wired-in fans.
• Some models allow for multiple on/off settings.
• Ideal for those wishing to turn lights on and off at random times while they’re away from
home to create the impression that someone is home.
• Installed in place of an existing wall switch.
Motion Detector
• Turns the light on when it senses motion.
• Turns the light on until it senses the room is empty, or some may be programmed to
shut the light of after a specified amount of time.
• Ideal for rooms where hands-free activation is desired, or to turn the light off to conserve energy.
• Installed in place of an existing wall switch.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why should I get a timer for my home?
A: Timers can offer convenience, security and help your home be more efficient. One big benefit is that you can
use a timer to program your lights to switch on and off while you’re away. This provides extra security by creating
the appearance that someone is home. You can program it to turn on certain lights before you arrive home from
work each day. If you have a sprinkler system, a timer allows you to continue watering your lawn, even when
you’re out of town.
Q: How do I know what timer is best for me?
A: If you are using a timer inside, do you want to control a single device, such as a lamp or a string of Christmas
lights? If so, a simple mechanical timer might meet your needs. However if you want to control several devices
and have different settings for different days of the week, consider a digital timer or even a switch timer that will
wire into the electrical system of your home.
Q: Can I get a timer for use outdoors?
A: Yes. An outdoor timer is ideal for controlling seasonal lighting. It is weather resistant so it’s safe for outdoor
use. Some have single outlets while others have multiple outlets.
Add-on Items
• If the customer is installing a wired-in timer, make sure they have all of the necessary tools for the project,
such as a wire stripper, circuit tester or a screwdriver.
• Electrical tape and wire connectors are two items the customer may run out of during the project, so suggest he or she pick up some extra.
• If the customer is buying an outdoor timer, offer an outdoor extension cord for plugging devices into the timer.
27
Module 4: Electrical Tools
Product Knowledge:
Circuit Tester
• Used to determine if there is electricity running through a circuit or if it is properly grounded.
• Also known as a test lamp, a voltage tester, a neon tester or a test light.
• Consists of two insulated wire probes and a small neon light.
• Designs vary widely.
• Recommend as a basic tool for every toolbox.
Continuity Tester
• Used to determine if a wire or circuit can carry electricity from one end to the other.
• Generally consists of two probes (one of them being an alligator clip) and an indicator
light powered by a battery.
• Can also be used to test cartridge fuses.
Receptacle Analyzer
• Analyzes a receptacle to determine whether or not the wiring is sound, if it is grounded and
if the receptacle is receiving power. Some also test the GFCI function of the receptacle.
Multimeter
• Use to troubleshoot electrical problems in a variety of household devices and wiring systems.
• Has two probes and a analog or digital readout.
• Performs a variety of functions, including that of a voltage detector and a continuity
tester, in a single unit. Select the function you want by turning the selector dial.
• Another type is the clamp meter, which has a clamp instead of test leads. This type
allows you to test the current in a wire by clamping the ends around the wire and
eliminating the need to disconnecting the wire.
Fish Tape
• Used to pull the electrical cable or wire through the wall or through electrical conduit.
• Also used to probe wall cavities to determine the best path for routing a cable.
• Also known as a snake.
• Often comes in lengths of 25’ or 50’, 1/2” or 3/4” wide with a hook on one end. Also
comes coiled in a case.
Electrical Tape
• Handy for many uses. In electrical work, it is used to cover bare wires after they have
been exposed.
• Most common type is vinyl or plastic, usually 3/4” wide.
• Different colors are available to help identify wires.
Wire Nuts
• Used to connect the bare ends of two wires inside a box. At least two are required at
every circuit connection.
• Available in a variety of sizes and colors.
• Connects wires with a twisting action.
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Insulated Staples
• Used to mount cable to studs or other framing members.
• There are different sizes, so make sure you are recommending the correct one.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is there a tool for removing the outer sheathing on Romex?
A: A utility knife will work, but an inexpensive cable stripper is designed for the task and will not damage the
wires inside. A combination tool has openings that fit different sizes of wire. When a wire is put into the correct
one and pulled, it will remove the covering without damaging the wire.
Q: Do you have something I can use to insulate and repair wire?
A: You can use heat-shrink tubing. It’s designed to fit something half its size in diameter.
Q: What do I need to buy for a basic electrical tool kit?
A: This is a good combination: Needle-nose pliers, insulated screwdriver, combination tool, utility knife, keyhole
saw, continuity tester, neon circuit tester, fish tape, electrical tape and wire connectors.
Q: How do I test a switch to see if it is working?
A: Use a continuity tester. First, shut off the electricity going to the switch and remove it. Touch the tester leads
to both of the switch’s terminals. If the switch is working properly, the tester will light up when the switch is on
and go out when the switch is turned off.
Q: What is the easiest way to test an outlet?
A: Use a receptacle analyzer. Leave the power on, but make sure nothing is plugged into any outlet on the circuit, and turn off all switches on the circuit. Now, plug the analyzer into the outlet. A series of lights will tell you
if the outlet is wired correctly and working.
Q: How do I use a wire nut?
A: Strip off about 1/2” of insulation from the wires you want to connect. Hold these wires next to each other and
twist clockwise. Screw on the wire connector using only your hand strength. Make sure no bare wire is exposed.
Add-on Items
• Some electrical testers will require batteries, so suggest the customer pick up a few extra.
29
Module 5: Extension Cords & Surge Protectors
Product Knowledge:
Indoor Extension Cord
• Not designed for the harsh conditions of outdoor work.
• Usually have two wires bundled in a cable and come in lengths from 6’ to 20’.
• Any UL-listed cord will carry a UL label near the female end. Many companies are now
using an alternative method of labeling allowed by UL, which permits the UL markings
to be molded into the cord ends. This ensures a permanent marking that cannot be
provided with a label. It is important to check for this UL insignia, whether it is a label or
a permanent marking. Non-listed cords can be similar in appearance to listed ones.
• Step-saver cords have built-in pendant switches to control appliances and lamps across
the room.
Outdoor Extension Cords
• Are used for outdoor power tools and exterior lighting.
• They come in 16/3, 14/3 and 12/3 wire, and the most common lengths are from 25’ to 100’.
• Heavy-duty extension cords should be used with high-wattage appliances.
• To be UL-listed for outdoor use, three-wire round cords must have connector and cap
molded to the cord, with a lip on the end of the connector to prevent misuse.
• Letters on the cord, such as “SJTW”, indicate the cord’s durability and intended use.
• Grounding cords are available in both heavyweight and heavy-duty construction differing
from standard cords, because they have three conductors instead of two and are
equipped with a three-prong grounding plug and connector.
Appliance Cords
• Combine cord and connector. The difference between cord sets can be in type of
connector and/or cord used.
• Free-end attachment cord sets without connectors are used in re-wiring direct attachment
irons, toasters and similar small appliances. They have pre-tinned ends to speed up wiring.
Range and Dryer Cords
• Range and dryer cords are free-end types, commonly called “pigtails,” attached directly
to the appliance.
• Free ends are fitted with cable terminals that connect to screw terminals of the
appliance to assure positive connections.
• A metal clamp attached to the cable serves as a strain relief at the point where the cable
enters an appliance and a cord protector.
• Sizes range from 30A to 50A for dryers and ranges. The different amperage attachment
plugs are not interchangeable because of a difference in their configuration.
• The National Electrical Code requires new range and dryer receptacle installations to be
3-pole, 4-wire grounding receptacles. The neutral (grounded circuit conductor) can no
longer be used to ground the frames of electrical ranges and dryers.
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Multiple Tap
• Plugs into an existing outlet to increase the number of outlets at a location.
• It typically has four to six plugs.
• Another type, called a power strip or plug-in strip, has one side that plugs into an outlet
while the other provides two to six pairs or outlets.
Surge Suppressor
• Looks similar to a power strip, but has a surge protector feature that protects electronic
equipment from sudden surges of electricity. Works by diverting a surge of electricity
away from the devices plugged in to the suppressor. However, a surge protector does
not protect against a lightning strike.
• Note that not all power strips have this protection: A unit must clearly state that it is a
surge suppressor or surge protector to offer surge protection.
• Some have indicator lights to show they are working properly.
• Some models have load sensing plugs. These shut off power when the connected device enters standby mode. Devices in standby mode can slowly drain electricity, so this
feature helps the user save energy.
• Other models may look like a multiple tap that plugs directly into a wall.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is there a special extension cord for my window air conditioner?
A: Yes, you need to use a major appliance cord. A regular extension cord doesn’t have heavy enough wire to
safely conduct the necessary current.
Q: What makes a cord rated for outdoor use and a standard one?
A: The outer coating of the insulation on the outdoor-use cord is weather and sunlight resistant.
Q: Is it okay to use an extension cord with a fuse on it rather than a surge protector for my computer?
A: No, a surge protector has components that trip before a spike in electricity damages your electronic equipment.
Q: How large of a cord should I use when wiring an appliance?
A: Use cords with 16-gauge wire for appliances pulling less than 15A and 12-gauge wire for appliances pulling up
to 20A.
Q: What do the letters SJWT on this extension cord mean?
A: This indicates the cord’s durability and intended use. S indicates the cord is flexible and designed for general
use, while W tells you the cord can be used outdoors. T indicates the cord jacket is vinyl thermoplastic. J tells
you that the cord has a standard, 300V insulation. There are other letters on heavy-duty and specialty cords, but
these are the most common.
Upselling Skills
• For outdoor applications, recommend an extension cord with a built-in ground fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) to shut
off power in the event of a ground fault.
• May have multiple taps, allowing more than one device to be plugged in.
• Another feature on better extension cords that make them easier to use include a lighted plug so it’s easy to see
when there’s power running through the cord
• You can also recommend a mechanism to keep the extension cord socket and the connected device locked together so they don’t pull apart during use.
• Remind the customer that there’s a difference between a surge protector and a power strip. Recommend getting
the best surge protector available. A little money spent on a quality power strip will save a lot of money spent on a
damaged appliance or electronic device. Use these on all delicate electronic equipment in the house.
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• Models with load sensing plugs also help the customer save money because they shut off power to a device when
it enters standby mode, thus saving energy.
Add-on Items
• A cord reel keeps the cord organized and easy to transport.
Module 6: Generators
Product Knowledge:
Generator
• Generators convert mechanical energy from an internal combustion engine, fueled such
as gasoline, propane, diesel or LP, into electricity. Conventional generators produce AC
power that can be used to power appliances, tools and other devices.
• A generator must always be properly grounded. If not, the user runs the risk of electrocution.
• The engine runs at a constant rpm speed, regardless of the load, or number of devices
plugged into it.
• Better generators have a push-button starter, powered by a battery.
• Many models are portable generator for use in areas like jobsites where there is not
other source of power.
• Often used to provide back-up power during a power outage.
• A backup generator senses a power outage then automatically turns on to restore lost electricity.
• Here are some terms to consider when selling a generator:
• Running Wattage: Generators are sized by watts. To figure the appropriate size
a customer needs, first tally up the total wattage required by all of the appliances,
tools and devices that will be plugged into the generator. The running wattage of the
generator should be slightly higher than the combined running watts of those items
plugged in.
• Startup Wattage: Another consideration is the startup wattage. Some motors require
a higher wattage when they start than they do when they are running. Check each
appliance for its actual rating. The generator should have adequate starting wattage
for the customer’s needs.
• Backfeeding: Never plug the generator into a wall outlet of the home. This is known
as “backfeeding,” or trying to feed power back into the home. This can cause serious
injury to utility workers trying to fix downed power lines or to neighbors. To use a
generator to power the house, a homeowner must have a qualified electrician install
the appropriate equipment into the home’s power system.
• Transfer Switch: Use generators with a transfer switch, which is installed near the
main circuit breaker panel and allows the generator to be safely connected to the
home’s electrical circuits.
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Inverter Generator
• Smaller and more lightweight than conventional generators.
• While larger models are available, most inverter generators do not produce as much
watts as a conventional generator, so tend to be used with smaller equipment.
• While conventional generators tend to be noisy, inverter generators are much quieter and
ideal where noise is a concern. They’re ideal for hunters, campers and fishermen.
• An inverter works by converting the raw AC power produced by the generator into DC
energy, then back into AC power. This process produces a higher quality power that
is more stable, consistent power that can be used with sensitive equipment such as
computers and televisions.
• The engine only runs at an RPM speed required to match the load, or number of devices
plugged in to it. Therefore, it is more efficient and quieter than a conventional generator.
Inverters can run for longer on less fuel than a conventional generator.
• Some inverters can be paired together to double the power capacity.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What is a good type of generator to take camping with me?
A: An inverter generator is smaller, portable and quieter than conventional generators.
Q: What are some safety features to consider when buying a generator?
A: A voltage regulator prevents fluctuations in voltage, which can harm sensitive electronic devices. Another safety
feature is an automatic shut-off if one of several unsafe operating conditions occurs, such as a low oil level, low oil
pressure, low coolant level or high temperature. A fuel gauge can help you check the fuel level at a glance.
Q: Why should I get a transfer switch?
A: This will sense when the power in your home is off and will automatically turn on the generator. It will also
turn off the generator when the power is restored. It’s not just a convenience, either. It can prevent backfeed into
the electrical lines, which can be deadly.
Q: Can I use a generator inside?
A: Always run generators outdoors and away from open windows or doors. Never run the generator indoors, in
the basement or in the garage, even if the garage door is open. The carbon monoxide a generator produces can
be deadly.
Q: How large of a generator should I buy?
A: The size depends on what you want to power. Large models with 10,000W of power can power most items in
your home, but they are the most expensive. Small portable models with 4,000W of power can power basic items
such as lights, a refrigerator, a sump pump, a microwave and a TV. Other sizes are available too.
Add-on Items
• Any customer buying a generator to use as a backup power source for the home will need a transfer switch.
This product is essential for safe operation of a generator that will be attached to a home’s power supply.
• Offer a gas can for filling up the generator and for having extra fuel.
• Make sure the customer has an outdoor extension cord for hooking up devices and tools.
33
study guide: Electrical
Chapter 5: Home Entertainment & Networking
Module 1: Home Audio & Video Accessories
Product Knowledge:
Antenna
• Antennas are characterized by what type of signal they are able to receive. Antennas
typically can receive one or more of the following types of signals: VHF (very high
frequency) or UHF (ultra high frequency).
• When selling an antenna, consider ease of installation, the distance to the nearest tower
and the obstacles surrounding the place where the antenna will be installed.
• Since television stations now broadcast digital signals, standard indoor and outdoor
antennas are able to receive digital signals.
• Indoor antennas are good for urban locations, close to a strong signal with no
interference from trees, hills or tall buildings.
• Outdoor antennas are good for rural and suburban locations, close to a strong signal in a
place that might be surrounded by obstacles like buildings.
Video Cables
• The choice of video cables depend upon the input/output jacks available on the audio and video system components you are connecting. Here are some of the common types.
• HDMI Video Cable
• Use this cable to connect an HDTV to a Blu-Ray player, digital cable box, satellite receiver
or 3D device.
• Delivers digital audio and video signals on one cable. It’s a high speed HDMI cable with Ethernet.
• There are a variety of adapters that can connect HDMI components. Be sure to visit the
appendix to learn about all of the different types of HDMI adapters.
RGB Component Video Cable
• Use to connect an HDTV to a digital cable box, satellite receiver or other device.
• It provides the best analog video signal.
• Delivers high definition 720p video resolution
• Typically has red, green and blue plugs.
S-Video Cable
• Use this cable for connecting video components with S-Video inputs and outputs.
• Delivers analog video resolution only, so you usually use it with older technology (such
as TVs, DVD players and VCRs).
Composite Audio/Video Cable
• Transmits analog audio and video signals on one cable assembly.
• Use to connect a TV or a DVD player.
• It has red, white and yellow plugs.
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VGA Video Cable
• Use to connect a laptop or portable DVD player to a projector, computer monitor or flat
panel display
• VGA cables, which stands for video graphic array, delivers analog video resolution only.
Coaxial Cable
• Use this cable to connect video equipment to broadcast sources which may be cable,
satellite or antenna.
• It transmits both audio and video TV signals and cable based broadband internet signals.
• Coaxial cable consists of a center conductor usually 18 AWG (gauge) surrounded by a
layer of non-conducting insulation, surrounded by a conducting shield, covered finally by
a plastic jacket.
• Coaxial cable may come in specified lengths with connectors already installed on each
end of the cable. Coaxial cable is also sold in bulk without the connectors attached.
• There are two types of coaxial cable: RG6 and RG6 Quad. Use the RG6 coax cable for
basic digital installations. It is a step-up cable that provides more heavy duty shielding
and less signal loss. Always use RG6 Quad cable in any satellite application.
Audio Cables
• There are a variety of cables you can use to transmit audio signals.
• Use a digital optical toslink cable to connect an HDTV to a digital audio/video receiver.
• A dual RCA stereo audio cable transmits an analog audio signal through separate left
and right channels. Use for very basic audio connections on home stereo systems and
audio/video receivers. It has red and white plugs.
• A 3.5 mm stereo audio cable is a single stereo cable with a 3.5 mm (⅛”) plug on
each end. Use it to connect a smartphone, MP3 player, tablet or other portable devices.
Speaker Wire
• Use for connecting audio speakers, subwoofers, intercom systems and other audio equipment.
• It has two lead cables that consist of one lead carrying a positive (+) signal and one lead
carrying a negative (-) signal. These leads are then connected to the terminals on the
back of an audio speaker.
• The AWG (gauge) number indicates the overall wire size. Lower AWG (gauge) numbers
indicate a thicker wire. Thicker gauge wire facilitates better signal transmission.
Coaxial “F” Connectors
• Use to connect coaxial cable to a plug or device. There are five styles.
• Use a twist-on connector for simple, basic twist-on connection to coaxial cable. You
don’t need a tool to make the connection.
• Use a crimp-on for a secure connection to coaxial cable. This type requires a crimping
tool.
• Use a weatherproof crimp-on connector to make a secure, weatherproof
connection to coax cable. This is a heavy-duty connector that requires a crimping tool
with a .35 hex cavity.
• The tool less connector is a push-on type connector for a tight secure fit. It provides a
more secure fit then twist-on style and you don’t need a tool for installation.
• Compression type provides the best, complete 360° tight, secure cable connection.
Use with satellite and cable installations. You need a compression tool to install it.
35
Coaxial Splitters
• Use to split one coaxial cable input into multiple identical outputs. Each output displays
the same signal.
• There are three types of coaxial splitters: Basic, Digital and Satellite.
• Use basic coax splitters for very basic video signals.
• Use digital coax splitters for digital video signals, HDTV and internet cable modem connections.
• Use satellite coax splitters to split satellite signals. This is the splitter cable companies use.
Video wall plates
• These allow you to connect a variety of cables to wires running through the walls of a home.
• Most types mount to a standard electrical box.
• There are many different configurations available, depending on the types and number of
wires you are connecting. Be sure to see the appendix for a listing of the basic types.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What do the sizes on the wires mean?
A: The AWG number indicates the gauge, or wire size, of the wires inside the cable. Thicker wires have a lower
AWG number and can handle more power and a higher current.
Q: What kind of antenna should I buy for my TV?
A: The main consideration is the obstacles in your area that could block the signal. If there are no tall buildings,
trees or hills nearby, consider an indoor antenna. If you are surrounded by obstacles like buildings, consider an
outdoor antenna. You might also want to consider a directional antenna that allows you to adjust its direction for
better signal pickup.
Q: What is the purpose of an indoor amplified antenna?
A: An indoor amplified antenna does not increase the ability to receive a weak signal. Rather, it is a better option for
those surrounded by obstacles like tall buildings and hills, if you are receiving a digital signal. Place outdoor antenna
amplifiers as close to the antenna as possible.
Q: What kind of cable do I need to hook up a 3D device?
A: Use a HDMI cable. This type of cable can also support 4K x 2K (4096 x 2160) and 1080p video resolutions.
Q: Will a directional antenna give me better reception?
A: Directional antennas allow you to direct the antenna at a signal for a better reception. Multi-directional antennas
allow you to pick up the signals from multiple antennas.
Add-on Items
• Recommend a quality coaxial stripper tool for preparing coaxial cable to accept a connector. Some tools have
a wire cutting included.
• Use a crimping tool for installing compression connectors onto coaxial cable.
• If the customer is installing cable through the wall of the house, he or she is tackling an involved project, so
there are a number of tools you can suggest.
• Ask if the customer has the proper screwdriver for installing switchplates.
• Also suggest:
• Drywall saw for cutting holes for boxes,
• A fish tape to help run the wire through the walls.
• Electrical boxes for the new wire.
• Finally, a cord organizer will help keep all of those wires and cables together.
36
Module 2: Home Networking
Product Knowledge:
Category 5e Networking Cable
• Use for high speed internet, DSL/cable modem, home networking and Ethernet connections.
• Also use for voice and data transmissions.
• It has RJ45 plugs on each end of the cable.
• It is rated at 350 MHz.
Category 6 Networking Cable
• Use for extreme high demand data transmission, such as in super, high speed internet,
DSL/cable modem, home networking and fast Ethernet connections.
• It is compatible with Category 5e cables.
• It has RJ45 plugs on each end of the cable.
• It is rated at 550 MHz.
Keystone Inserts
• Use to connect a high speed modem to the internet, add an extra phone line, install a
phone jack to several different rooms, add speakers, install a home theater system or
install audio and video connections to several different locations in home.
• These mount into the wallplate and can accept a variety of cable, depending on the type
of insert.
• For more information on the different types of inserts available, see the appendix.
Wall plates
• Use wallplates in conjunction with multi-media keystone inserts.
• They mount to a standard electrical box and allow you to connect a variety of cables to
wires running through the walls of a home.
Taking it to the Floor:
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: What’s the difference between an RCA cable and a coaxial cable?
A: The RCA cable is for audio connections. Coaxial cable is for video connections and typically not used for
audio components.
Q: What’s the difference between a CAT-5 cable and a coaxial cable?
A: CAT-5 cables, also called twisted pair cables, are used to connect phones, computer networks and audio/
video distribution systems. Coaxial cable is usually used for TV and video equipment. CAT-5 has several wires
bundled together, while coaxial has a single wire.
Q: I need a flash drive for my computer. What is the best one to buy?
A: Flash memory drives are sized according to the amount of memory it will hold. Higher sizes allow you to hold
all of the photos and video files you want. You can also try a memory card, which plugs directly into the SD port
on your computer.
37
Add-on Items
• Ask if the customer needs a USB cable, which connects a portable device to a computer.
• Ask if the customer needs a flash memory drive for his or her computer.
• Or, suggest a memory card. Both of these devices are used to store and transfer date from one device to another.
• Someone buying cords and cables may want a cord organizer to keep them all neat and tidy.
• Another good add-on item is a USB car charger.
• Finally, make sure the customer has any HDMI adapter he or she may need to make the necessary
connections to hook up devices.
38