STEP BY STEP INSTALLATION GUIDE
Step 1: Remove the old kitchen cabinets
(If this project is a new home, then skip to Step 4)

Clear everything out of your old cabinets. Shut off all the water supply lines and electricity to the
kitchen. Remove all appliances and if possible move them to another room for adequate space
and ease of installation.

If you plan to reuse your existing sink and taps, remove them carefully using the proper tools and
store them safely away from the work area.

Remove the old cabinets and countertops, in addition to any mouldings and baseboards that may
interfere with the new cabinets. When removing upper cabinets rom the wall, be sure to have
someone to support the cabinet’s weight while removing the last few screws or nails to prevent
the cabinet from falling causing unnecessary injury and damage.

Repair any damage to the wall surfaces resulting from the removal of the old kitchen.
Step 2: Prepare to install your new kitchen

Start by determining the highest point in the floor along the walls where the cabinets are being
installed. To determine this point, check the floor with a level. Tip: Tape a level to the edge of a
longer straight edge such as a toe kick moulding to
check a larger area.

Once you find the highest point, measure up 34 ½” and
use a straight edge to draw a level line on the wall
where the new base cabinets will be installed. This
line determines the base cabinet height. From the base
cabinet line, measure up 50 ⅛” and draw a parallel line on the wall where the new wall cabinets
will be installed. This line determines the wall cabinet height. Tip: If you are installing a pantry
then draw the upper cabinet line from top of pantry once it is installed.
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Step 3: Preparing your kitchen for installation

Mark the location of all of the studs on the walls that will support the new
cabinets using either a magnetic stud finder or a hammer and small
finishing nail. It is very important to ensure the cabinets are attached to
wall studs to provide the required support.

Remove all the packaging, doors, drawers, false fronts , and removable
shelving from the new set of cabinets prior
to installation. Use a pen and pieces of
tape to number the parts and the
corresponding cabinet they came from. This helps to reduce the
weight and prevent injury or damage from swinging doors, sliding
drawers, and falling shelves during installation. The cabinets are
equipped with fully adjustable clip hinges which allows the doors to
be removed easily. At the end of the hinge facing the inside of the
cabinet, there is a clip.
Tip: To help visualize the location
of the new cabinets, draw an
outline on the walls where they
will be attached by measuring the
width of the cabinets and
transferring the measurement to
the proper location.
Tip: Some people find it useful to
attach a piece of wood to the wall
to mark the level line and offer
support when hanging wall
cabinets.
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Step 4: Install the base cabinets
Always start with the corner cabinet. If there is no
corner cabinet, start from one end.
Step 4-A

Shim base cabinets up to line on wall. Then
level cabinets from front to back and place
shims at stud and floor locations if there is a
gap. Follow the 34 ½” line and attach the
cabinet through the cabinet back to all
available studs behind the cabinet using the
2 ½” screws.
Tip: measure from inside of cabinet gable to center of wall stud then transfer measurement inside
cabinet for screw location.
Step 4-B

Begin by moving the base cabinet into the proper location. Using wood shims, shim the cabinet up
to the 34 ½” line and check the top with a level and shim accordingly. The toe kick moulding
installed after will hide the shims.

If your base corner cabinet is round, secure it to the adjacent cabinets before you level and
position it.
Step 3-C
If there is not an adjacent cabinet to the round cabinet, leave it
detached until the countertops are installed. Secure it to the underside of the
countertop to keep it in position.

Tip: To break off the excess shim, score the shim with a utility knife and
break the extra section off. Make sure the shims do not stick out past the
cabinet’s sides.
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
Move the next cabinet into position so the side sits flush and precisely against the side of the installed corner cabinet. Clamp the two cabinets together using C-clamps or quick grip clamps and
shim under the cabinet if necessary.
Step 4-D

Align front edges as well as the top and bottom. Check to make
sure the cabinet is level. Use the 1 ⅛” screws included in the
installation kit to attach the cabinets together. To prevent splitting
or cracking, you can pre-drill these holes beforehand with a
countersink bit. Use four screws to attach the cabinets together.
Finish installing the remainder of the base cabinets using the
same procedure.
Tip: Every time you install a new wall or base cabinet, position your
level across the top of it and the last cabinet you installed to make sure
they are lined up with each other perfectly.
Tip: Always pre-fit the cabinets before securing them permanently to
avoid unwanted screw holes inside your new cabinets.
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Step 5: Install the wall cabinets

The procedure for installing wall cabinets is similar to installing the base
cabinets. Always start with the corner cabinet and if there isn’t one, start at
one end. Position the cabinet so the top is flush with the pre-drawn 84 ⅝”
level line. Check to ensure the cabinet is level and in the precise location.

Secure the cabinet to the studs through the back of the cabinet at the top
and bottom using the 2 ½” screws included in the installation kit. It is
recommended that at least two screws at the top and two at the bottom
are used to support each cabinet. Tip: leave screws loose to help align and
fasten adjacent cabinets. Once they are all connected, shim gaps at walls
if needed and tighten screws.

Similar to the installation procedure for base cabinets, move the next cabinet into place and align
front edges use c-clamps or quick grip clamps to clamp the two cabinets together. Shim behind
the cabinet if necessary and ensure the cabinet is level. Screw the cabinets together using 1 ⅛”
screws and then secure it to the studs using the 2 ½” screws. Finish installing the remainder of
the wall cabinets using the same procedure.
Tip: It may be helpful to make a simple cabinet support to hold the cabinet in place during installation.
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Step 6: Install fillers

The sides of the cabinets must sit flush to the walls for a truly built-in look. Because modular
cabinets are built in standard sizes and walls can be uneven, it is sometimes necessary to install
fillers to conceal the extra space. For small gaps, caulking can also be used. Fillers are straight
pieces that are cut to fill the gaps between a cabinet and wall. To cut a filler, cover the surface
with masking tape and mark the line you need to cut right on the tape. Use a jigsaw or table saw
to make your cut. The tape helps prevent tear-out from the saw blade and protects the finish.

Slide the filler into position, and attach it to the cabinet using the 1 ⅛” screws included in your
installation kit or 1” brad nails. Be sure the filler width is wide enough to clear the door trim so the
drawers open fully without hitting.
Tip: While determining the location of the fillers during
the planning stage, it is best to place them at the end of
the cabinet run because they can usually be installed
after the cabinets have been installed. If they are placed
between cabinets, it is important to install them in the
correct location during the installation of the cabinets.
Tip: When cutting melamine
covered wood, use masking
tape under your pencil line
before you cut to prevent
chipping or flaking from the
saw blade.
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Step 7: Install the countertops

Lift the new countertop into place. Check that it is level from end to end and front to
back at multiple points along its length. Insert wood shims where necessary or to fill
any gaps between the cabinet tops and underside of the counter.

If the gaps are large, set a drawing compass to the span of the largest gap
between the backsplash and the wall. Set the compass point next to the wall and
the marker on the backsplash and pull the compass along the wall to mark what
will need to be removed on the backsplash. Remove the countertop and clamp it
in place on sawhorses. Use a belt sander to sand the backsplash to the line drawn
with the compass. Place the countertop on the cabinet to ensure the backsplash is
flush against the wall.

If Countertop needs to be joined such as a corner then, glue them together with
some wood glue and press the edges together.

Ensure the entire surface is flush at the seam along the front edge of the counter.
Tighten the nearest mitre clamp and wipe away any excess glue. Stand behind
the countertop and push it down as needed to make the seam flush along the
back of the counter. Tighten the mitre clamp closest to the backsplash. If one
side of the same is higher than the other, protect the surface with a piece of wood
and tap the countertop with a hammer. When seam is level, tighten the
remaining mitre clamps.

Check the length of every screw carefully so you don’t penetrate the counter surface.
Fasten the countertop by screwing up through the bottom of the cabinet top into the
countertop using 1 ⅛” screws.

If you are reusing your original sink, measure and mark the location, then trace the
paper hole pattern onto the countertop in the proper place. Use a jigsaw to cut the
sink hole in the countertop. To prevent chipping the surface, cover with masking
tape and drill a pilot hole for the jigsaw blade.

Install the sink and reconnect the water and
drain lines.

Apply a bead of caulking where the countertop
or its backsplash meets the wall.
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Step 8: Align the drawers and doors

Re-install the drawers, false fronts, and shelving that were removed prior to installation.

Install the cabinet doors and make adjustments using the diagram below. Drawer fronts can be
also adjusted using the procedure illustrated below.
Tip: The swing direction of some styles of cabinet doors can be
reversed by moving the hinges to the other side of the cabinet,
flipping the door and clipping it into position. Be sure to change
the swing before drilling any handle holes.
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Step 9: Handles and pulls

Once the doors are properly installed and adjusted, install the handles or knobs.
Cardboard Template
Scrap Block
Step 10: Mouldings and trim

Lastly, cut the toe kicks to fit and attach with brad nails or
adhesive. For corner cabinets, cut the front piece long
enough to cover the cut end of the side piece.

Most moulding mitre joints are at a 90° angle and consist
of two pieces of moulding cut at opposing 45° angles.
When fitted together they should form a tight right angle.
For tight mitre joints, nail and glue at joint.
Step 11: Pat yourself on the back!

Crown Moulding
You have now successfully installed your kitchen cabinets. Congratulations on your beautiful new
kitchen!
Long-term Care & Maintenance:

Toe Kick Moulding
Our finishes are made of the highest quality and will
maintain their beauty with simple maintenance. Use warm
water, a soft cloth, and mild, non-abrasive soap for
cleaning all surfaces. Never use thinners, scrapers, or
abrasive cleaners on finishes.
For any questions, please contact cindy@cupboardbrothers.com
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