installation instructions for swing doors

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INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
FOR
SWING DOORS
For Miami Dade Product Approval:
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For Florida Product Approval:
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Note: Always wear proper safety equipment when installing our products.
Always read the entire installation instructions prior to starting installation.
FLORIDA’S BEST INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS
Model 230/245/249 SWING OUT FRENCH DOOR
PREPARING DOOR OPENING:
HARDWARE KIT CONTENTS:
A. Check floor and header (top of door opening) for
straightness. Determine by extending tape measure from
header to floor and measure. Measure both ends as well as
the middle of the opening. Repeat the same steps above
for checking the width of the opening.
B. Correct evenness if necessary. Opening must
accommodate the width and height of the door frame plus
a minimum of a 1/4” and a maximum of a ½” additional
for leveling and shimming. A ¾” minimum depression
(interior floor ¾” higher than the exterior floor) in floor is
suggested to prevent water intrusion.
(Note: Your dealer/salesperson has complete information
regarding the correct size door to be made for the
dimensions of your door opening.)
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(2) STRIKE PLATES
(5) #10 x 5/8 FH SMSCREWS-UNDER CUT
(2) DUST PLUGS
(10) #6 x 3/8 FHSM SCREWS SS
(20) ¾” PLASTIC HOLE PLUGS
PREPARING THE DOOR FRAME/SIDELITES FOR INSTALLATION
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Inspect the new door for any obvious defects prior to starting the installation. Notify the place of purchase if any
defects are found and return the door for a replacement. Do not install the door if there are obvious defects.
Make sure that the new door will fit properly prior to removing the door being replaced.
Stand door in the vertical position. Then tilt the door at a slight angle so that the door panel will not swing open.
With the hinges facing to the exterior side of opening, remove the shipping protection. Make sure the aluminum
colored sill/threshold is at bottom.
Swing the locking door panel open, block bottom of the door panel to prevent door from falling over. Remove
the hinge screws that connect the hinge to the door panel, so that the hinges remain connected to the frame.
Caution: The Hinge Screws are made of stainless steel, and strip easily. Use care when removing/replacing the
hinge screws
Take the locking door panel away from the door frame and store in a secure place until the end of installation.
Repeat same steps with inactive panel.
This step is for installation of sidelites: Slide the sidelite onto the H-mull by inserting the sidelite jamb into the
open channel of the H mull. The interior of the sidelite has the pre-drilled installation holes. Fasten H-mull to the
sidelite with # 14 x 1 ¼” self-drilling Screws (not included in the hardware pack). Pass the self-drilling screws
thru the pre-drilled installation holes in the sidelite jamb and tab into the H mull. Be sure to keep the bottom of
the mull even with the bottom of the sidelite. Slide the door frame into the H-mull. Fasten door frame to H-mull
with only two #14 x 1 ¼” self-drilling Screws (one at the top and one at the bottom) thru the pre-punched
installation holes. You will add the rest of the screws after the door is leveled and adjusted. For sidelites with
panels remove the door panel from the door frame and follow the steps above except for the installation holes in
the frame are on the exterior side if the frame. If the door/sidelites have grids make sure the sidelites are installed
with the correct side up. The sidelites are marked on the cardboard containers with a “This side Up “label. This is
important to ensure that the grids on the sidelites line up with the grids on the door.
Apply a continuous bead of wet water proof grout approximately ½” deep at sill of opening. Pack underside of
sill cavity (230 series only) solid with the same grout. Move assembled unit into opening, carefully supporting
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doorframe and sidelite (if used) so not to bend. Set sill of frame on top of bead of grout then swing top of frame
into opening.
Do not step on sill until after cement dries. Level the door frame sill/threshold so that the sill is not bowed
upwards or downwards. Level the sill so that the sill is level from the exterior to the interior. Tool ¼” deep
groove into cement at the exterior of sill t accept perimeter caulk at a later time. Clean off excess grout while
grout is still wet.
Fasten one ¼’ tapcon fastener (not included/the tapcon must penetrate the concrete at least 1 ¼” or 1 ¾” into
wood) thru the pre-punched installation hole in the door frame head closest to the frame jamb into the top of the
wall.
Check the frame head with a level. Fasten a second ¼” tapcon fastener into frame head on opposite end of door
frame.
Adjust frame head up or down until level. Next fasten a ¼ tapcon fastener thru the bottom pre-drilled installation
hole of door jamb or sidelite frame jamb (depending on if you are using a sidelite(s) or not).
Check with a level so that the jamb is level in and out. Then check that the jamb is level left to right. Repeat this
step on opposite side.
Reinstall the inactive door panel (the door panel without the handle) into frame.
Make sure that hinge screws are centered into the holes in the hinge leaf, so that the hinge screw heads are flush
with the hinge leaf and the hinge screws are tight.
Swing the door panel into the closed position. Check that the panel swings without rubbing on the frame head or
sill. Adjust the frame jamb up if the door panel is rubbing on the frame sill and down if the door panel is rubbing
on the frame head.
Check that the panel closes against the frame head and sill evenly. Adjust the frame jamb in (towards the interior)
or out (towards the exterior) until panel hits the frame head and sill at the same time when closed.
Repeat the same above steps on the active panel.
Check that the active and inactive panels are even at the top and that the gap between the top of the door panel
and the frame head is the same in the middle as on the sides. There must be an even gap between the top of the
panels and the frame head all the way across the both door panels. Adjust the frame jambs up or down to correct.
Swing the active panel until almost closed. Look to see if gap between active and inactive panels is the same
distance at top and bottom. Adjust frame jamb left or right until gap is even.
Fasten the balance of fasteners in frame jambs of door frame and sidelite(s). Insert plastic hole plugs into
installation holes and holes on back side of hinge stiles. Caution: Do not over tight fasteners to prevent jambs
of bowing. (Shim as needed, not to exceed ¼”) Bowing jambs inward will cause door to rub; outward will cause
excessive gap between doors.
Fasten the balance fasteners in frame head and sill. Caution: Do not over tighten the fasteners, to prevent the
frame head from bowing. (Shim as needed, not to exceed ¼”) Bowing the frame head or sill inward will cause
the door panels to rub the frame head or frame sill. Bowing the frame head or sill outward will cause flush bolts
not to penetrate properly. Check that flush bolts operate freely and there is no more than 3/16” gap between
panel and frame head or frame sill . Adjust frame as needed.
For size, quantity, and spacing required for installation fasteners, Reference Miami-Dade product approval
(NOA) or job specific engineering. TM Window LLC/Florida’s Best Window is not liable for any
misinterpretations of these instructions. Consult your engineer or building official for further information.
Use 100% silicone sealant to seal the corners, inside and out of frame jamb to sill connection. Always clean any
surface prior to applying ant sealants.
Seal all fasteners on the frame sill with a quality grade polyurethane sealant to prevent any water penetration. The
proper way to seal fasteners is to fill the hole drilled into the sill with an ample amount sealant (about one full pull
of the calking gun trigger) then insert fasteners.
Install lock sets of your choice.
For standard locking handle and deadbolt (Lock handle and dead bolt not included) TM/FB swing-out doors
ordered prepared for standard locking handle and deadbolt are factory drilled with 2- 2 1/8” holes with a 2 3/8”
backset and 8 ½” on center between the two 2 1/8” holes. Some manufacturer strike plates will not work with
the TM/FB door due to the tamper proof astragal design. Propriety strike plates are included in the attached
hardware kit. Install strike plates on inactive panel in the two 1” x 2” rectangular holes on the edge of the panel
with the #6 x 3/8” screws. In applications where pressurized field water testing is going to be preformed it may
be necessary to seal the lock handle, deadbolt and flush bolts with good quality silicone during installation.
For the 3 point locking system (handle set included with door) please follow the installation instructions
included in the handle set box. In order to lock the 3 point locking system you first lift the handle up and then
rotate the thumb turn to the horizontal position. To un-lock the door rotate the thumb turn to the vertical
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position and push the handle down. If you cannot lock the door after installing the handle set check to see if the
bottom flush bolt on the active door panel is hitting the frame sill. This will cause the flush bolt not to extend all
the way out and hinder the lock from locking. To adjust the flush bolts remove the third screw from the bottom
of the door panel on the edge. Slide the plate that the screw you just removed was fasten with down to expose the
teeth that connect the flush bolt to the locking mechanism. Advance the flush bolt up one notch and reinstall.
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Place self-adhesive dust plugs at top and bottom of inactive door panels, between the two door
panels. This will cover up any slight daylight gaps at top & bottom of doors.
When door is installed correctly, the gap between the frame and door panels should be even on all four sides. The
door panels should not sag in middle. The gap between doors when opened should be equal from top to bottom.
The active door panel should close flat against inactive door panel when closed. If any of the above is not
correct, the installation is not done correctly. The door jambs will need to be moved in or out to adjust flatness.
The door jambs will need to be moved up or down to adjust uneven gaps.
After you have installed the door correctly perimeter caulk the door on the exterior with a quality grade
polyurethane calking and the interior with a good quality acrylic calking. Seal the H mulls to the door frame jambs
and sidelite frame jambs with 100% silicone sealant on the exterior and interior. Always clean the surfaces that
you are applying sealant to prior to applying the sealant to.
In the event that the door does not operate after the door has been installed as per these instructions please
contact the manufacture within 72 hours of installation.
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