The Good Earth
Dubuque County Master Gardener’s
Publisher Mary Ann Emery
Extension Master Gardener
Volume No. 10
Issue No. 6
Date June, 2011
Dubuque County Extension
14858 West Ridge Lane, Suite 2
Dubuque, IA 52003-8466
563-583-6496; Fax 563-583-4844
www.extension.iastate.edu/dubuque
Items of Interest!
1)
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3)
4)
5)
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7)
8)
Hello everyone!!!
We certainly had a terrific plant sale on Saturday,
May 7th. We sold over $900 in plants and baked
goods. Thanks for all who helped make this a huge
success.
All our yards are certainly looking wonderful this
season. It took a while to get here but it is certainly
wonderful to be outdoors moving plants, mowing and
making needed improvements. I have been changing
the shapes on a couple of my beds to make them
easier to mow around, moving rocks (big ones too),
spreading new mulch - - just doing the things that I
had started and am now getting the time to finish. It is
just so wonderful to be in the fresh air.
Message from Marv
Call Center
Ask the Experts
Iowa Master Gardeners Gets New Look
Questions to Hotline Increasing
Hiring Professional Tree Services
Cuba City Garden Walk
Eastern Iowa Pond Tour
Master Gardener News Items
Please mark your calendars with these important dates.
Thanks Everyone!
Master Gardener Advisory Committee Meeting; 2 nd
Monday of each month, 6:00 pm at the Extension
Office. These meetings are open to all Master
Gardener’s, Trainees (interns) and invited guests.
Please come and support your Extension programs.
M.G. Advisory Committee Meeting: Monday,June 13,
2011 at 6:00 pm at the Dubuque County Extension
Office.
b) Tour of Gardens: Tour is Sunday, July 10.
c) Master Gardener Picnic, Sunday, August 27,
starting at 5 p.m. at the Dubuque Arboretum.
a)
Happy Father’s Day to all our dads on Sunday, June
19! Hope you all have a great day!
-- Mary Ann Emery
Mission Statement
The mission of the Master Gardener Program is to
provide current, research-based, home horticulture
information and education to the citizens of Iowa through
ISU Extension programs and projects. Through their
participation in educational activities, Master Gardeners also
increase their own personal knowledge in horticulture.
Master Gardeners extend Iowa State University Extension’s
consumer horticulture education programs through volunteer
activity.
NOTE: These events have been approved for volunteer
hours toward gaining or maintaining your Master
Gardener certification. Please contact Marv Stoffel at
(563)582-4764 or by email at stoffel19@mchsi.com if you
want to be a volunteer at any of these events. Watch this
area for more exciting events to come.
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From Marv Stoffel, President
Ask the ISU Extension
Gardening Experts
Master Gardener Advisory Committee
This is a very busy and exciting time of year. I'm sure
everyone has been busy planting and getting their yards and
gardens ready for summer.
At this time I would like to thank Ray Kunkel, who has
chaired the Master Gardener Spring Plant Sale for the last
several years. He has decided to step down and turn his
duties over to someone else. Thanks Ray for your excellent
leadership in this event.
On Saturday May 7th, we had our annual Master
Gardener Plant Sale. This year's plant sale was chaired by
Frank Kalnes and Joe Timmerman, who did an excellent job
of making this year's plant sale a huge success. Thanks
Guys! WE were blessed with very nice weather and an
excellent variety of plants, baked items, and etc. for sale this
year. Thanks to all who volunteered for this event. I know
everyone who volunteered had a lot of fun and enjoyed it
very much.
Our next big event will be the popular Tour of Gardens,
chaired by Jeanne Ambrosy and Lou Ann Arensdorf. They
have been very busy planning and organizing for this event.
They have a line-up of some very beautiful gardens. The
Tour of Gardens will be on Sunday, July 10th, held rain or
shine. If you want to volunteer for this event contact Jeanne
or Lou Ann. This is another great way to pick up volunteer
hours and have lots of fun doing this. I can't wait to see
these gardens.
Just a reminder to everyone. We are having the Summer
Webinar Series held at the Co Extension Office on the 4th
Tuesday of the months, May, June, July, and August which
starts on May 24th. You can attend one or all of these
sessions. Hopefully, everyone received information about
this. If you are interested in attending any of these sessions,
please call Trish at the Extension Office. These sessions
count as Education Hours and should be very informative.
Have a great and happy summer everyone!!
What is the proper way to plant a balled and
burlapped tree?
When planting a balled and burlapped tree, dig a hole
that is two to three times wider than the diameter of the
tree’s rootball. The depth of the hole should be two or three
inches less than the height of the rootball. Slope the sides of
the hole so the top of the hole is several inches wider than
the bottom.
Grasping the tree’s rootball, carefully lower the tree into
the hole. The top of the rootball should be approximately two
or three inches above the surrounding soil line. Make sure
the trunk is straight. Then begin backfilling with the original
soil. Do not add compost, peat or other organic materials to
the soil. Gently firm the backfill soil in the hole with your
hands.
When the planting hole is one-half full, cut and remove all
twine. Also, cut away and remove the burlap on the top onethird to one-half of the rootball. If the rootball is in a wire
basket, remove the top one-third to one-half of the basket.
Completely fill the remainder of the hole with soil. Place soil
up to the top of the rootball and gradually slope it down to
the surrounding soil line. Thoroughly water the tree.
Poorly drained sites are difficult locations for many trees.
When selecting trees for these sites, choose trees that can
tolerate poorly drained conditions. In poorly drained soils,
the depth of the planting hole should be approximately twothirds of the height of the rootball. When placed in the hole,
the top one-third of the rootball should be above the
surrounding soil. Fill the hole with soil. Place soil to the top
of the rootball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding
soil line.
Call Center: We Need Your Help
Our Call Center will be staffed through October. There
are many openings on the schedule for June, July, August,
and September. Please call Trish at the Extension Office or
Marv Stoffel if you can help out in the Call Center on either
Mondays (6-8pm) or Thursdays (1-4pm). They will make
sure that your name gets on the schedule.
If you are scheduled to work in the Call Center and
cannot make it, please find someone to fill in for you. Please
feel free to go into the Call Center to work if your name is
not on the schedule. There is usually always something to
do and anyone who stops in or calls with questions are truly
grateful for our help. We all can learn so much from each
other and trying to help solve other gardening problems.
This is another great opportunity to get your volunteer hours
in, be of service to our community, and have a good time
doing this at the same time.
Thanks to all who have volunteered for this so far. You’re
Great! The Call Center cannot be a success without you.
Thank you.
What is the proper way to plant a containergrown tree?
When planting a container-grown tree, dig a hole that is
two to three times wider than the diameter of the container.
The depth of the hole should be two or three inches less
than the height of the soil ball. Slope the sides of the hole so
the top is several inches wider than the bottom. In poorly
drained soils, the depth of the hole should be approximately
two-thirds the height of the soil ball.
Once the hole has been prepared, carefully lay the tree
on its side. Tap the sides of the container to loosen the soil
ball from the container, and then slide the tree out of its
container. All containers should be removed, even
supposedly plantable containers. If the sides of the soil ball
are a mass of roots, carefully shave off the outer ½ to 1 inch
of the soil ball with a sharp spade or saw. Place the tree in
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the hole. The top of the soil ball should be approximately 2
or 3 inches above the surrounding soil. In poorly drained
sites, the top one-third of the soil ball should stick above the
surrounding soil.
Gradually fill the hole with soil. With each new addition of
soil, firm it in place with your hands. Place soil to the top of
the soil ball and gradually slope it down to the surrounding
soil. Once planted, water thoroughly.
compact plants. They grow to a certain height, stop, then
flower and set all their fruit within a short period of time. The
harvest period for determinate tomatoes is rather short,
making them good choices for canning. Indeterminate
tomatoes continue to grow, flower and set fruit until killed by
the first frost in the fall. Accordingly, the harvest from
indeterminate varieties often extends over a two to three
month period. Yields are generally heavier than determinate
types, but fruit are usually later to mature. Indeterminate
tomatoes are large, sprawling plants which often perform
best when grown in wire cages or trained on stakes.
Caring for newly planted trees
Should I fertilize a newly planted tree?
It is generally not necessary to fertilize newly planted
trees. Most Iowa soils can supply sufficient amounts of
nutrients during establishment. If trees are growing poorly
two or three years after planting, fertilization may be
beneficial. Poorly growing trees often exhibit sparse foliage,
yellow-green leaves or short annual twig growth.
What are some good tomato varieties for
Iowa?
Suggested tomato varieties for Iowa include ‘Jet Star’
(indeterminate plant; red, oblate, medium to large fruit),
‘Better Boy’ (indeterminate; red, round, medium-sized fruit),
‘Celebrity’ (determinate; red, oblate, medium to large fruit),
‘Big Beef’
(indeterminate;
red, oblate, large
fruit), ‘Red Sun’
(determinate; red,
globe-shaped,
large fruit),
‘Carolina Gold’
(determinate;
golden orange,
oblate, large
fruit), ‘Pony
Express’
(determinate; red, plum-shaped fruit), ‘Sweet Olive’
(determinate; red, oval, grape-type fruit), and ‘Golden
Sweet’ (indeterminate; yellow, oval, grape-type fruit). Oblate
fruit are roundish with slightly flattened tops and bottoms.
Should I stake a newly planted tree?
Staking is not required for most newly planted trees.
However, large trees and those planted in windy, exposed
sites may require staking. If staking is necessary, allow the
trunk to move or sway for proper trunk and root
development. To prevent damage to the trunk, use strong,
wide strips of canvas, rubber or other materials to support
the tree. Remove the stakes as soon as possible. In most
cases, stakes should be removed after one growing
season.
How should I prune a newly planted tree?
Trees utilize sugars and other carbohydrates
manufactured by the foliage for plant growth. Therefore,
avoid the temptation to severely prune newly planted trees.
Severe pruning reduces the tree’s ability to manufacture
food and actually slows plant growth. Newly planted trees
require only corrective pruning. Remove structural defects,
such as double leaders and dead, broken or crossing
branches. Retain most of the lower branches to help
stabilize the tree. The lower branches also provide food for
the growing tree. Gradually remove the lower limbs as the
tree grows during the next five to10 years.
When purchasing tomato plants, are big or
small plants better?
When purchasing tomato plants at your local
greenhouse or garden center, select stocky, dark green
plants. Plants should be 6 to 10 inches tall with stems about
pencil-size in thickness. Avoid large plants with flowers and
fruit. Early fruit development will stunt plant growth and
reduce total yield.
How often should I water a newly planted
tree?
The key to watering newly planted balled and burlapped
and container-grown trees is to keep the plant’s rootball
moist for several weeks after planting. Water newly planted
trees every day for four or five days and then gradually
reduce the frequency of watering. When watering, slowly
apply water to the rootball and the surrounding soil. A
thorough watering every seven to 14 days (in dry weather)
should be sufficient four to five weeks after planting.
Continue this watering schedule through summer and into
fall. Small trees usually require watering for one or two
growing seasons. It may be necessary to periodically water
large trees for two or three years.
I have started several tomato plants indoors.
Can they be planted directly into the garden?
Plants started indoors or purchased at a greenhouse
should be hardened or acclimated to outdoor conditions
before transplanting into the garden. Initially place the plants
in a shady protected location, then gradually expose them to
longer periods of sunlight. After several days of hardening,
the tomatoes should be ready to be planted into the garden.
When can I plant tomatoes in Iowa?
Transplant tomatoes into the garden after the danger of
frost is past. In central Iowa, it’s usually safe to plant
tomatoes around May 10. Gardeners in southern Iowa can
plant one week earlier, while those in northern areas should
wait an extra week. The last practical date for planting
tomatoes is approximately June 20.
In regards to tomatoes, what is meant by the
terms “determinate” and “indeterminate”?
Determinate and indeterminate describe a tomato
variety’s growth habit. Determinate tomatoes are small,
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before winter. An all-purpose garden fertilizer, such as 1010-10, should produce excellent results. Sprinkle 1/4 cup of
fertilizer around each plant per application.
What is the proper way to plant tomatoes?
Tomatoes perform best when grown in fertile, welldrained soils in full sun. Soil structure and drainage of
heavy, clay soils can be improved by incorporating organic
matter, such as compost or peat, into the soil. Raised beds
are another option for gardeners with heavy, clay soils.
Planting sites should receive at least six to eight hours of
direct sun daily.
If the plants are in peat pots, tear off the top edge or
make sure the top edge is well below the soil surface once
planted. If the top edge of the peat pot is exposed to the air,
it will act like a wick and draw moisture from the soil around
the plant’s roots. If the tomatoes are in plastic pots or cellpaks, carefully tap out the plants. Use a sharp knife to cut
around plants growing in small flats.
Set plants into the soil up to their first true leaves. Pinch
off the bottom leaves of tall, lanky transplants and lay them
sideways in a trench. Carefully bend the stem upward so
that the upper few inches of the stem are above the soil
surface. Roots will develop all along the buried stem.
Spacing of plants depends on the growth habit of the
variety and training system employed. Indeterminate
varieties that are staked can be planted 1½ to 2 feet apart in
the row. Indeterminate plants grown in wire cages should be
spaced 2½ to 3 feet apart, while a 3- to 4-foot-spacing would
be appropriate for indeterminate tomatoes allowed to sprawl
over the ground. Determinate, ground-grown tomatoes can
be planted two feet apart. Rows should be spaced
about four feet apart.
How can I control blackspot on my roses?
Blackspot is a common fungal disease of roses.
Symptoms of blackspot are circular black spots on the
leaves. Infected leaves turn yellow and drop prematurely.
Initially, symptoms develop on the lower leaves and
gradually move upward. By late summer, severely infected
plants may be nearly defoliated.
The blackspot fungus overwinters on fallen leaves and
infected canes. Spores are splashed on to newly emerging
foliage in spring. Blackspot development is favored by
warm (75 F), wet weather.
Careful rose selection, cultural practices and fungicide
treatments can be used to control blackspot on roses. Rose
varieties differ widely in their susceptibility to blackspot.
When purchasing roses, select rose varieties that are
resistant to blackspot. When selecting a planting site,
choose a site that receives full sun and provides good air
movement. Full sun and good air movement promote drying
of the rose foliage and discourage blackspot infections.
Reduce the amount of overwintering fungi by carefully
cleaning up the leaf debris in fall. When watering roses,
apply water directly to the ground around the plants. Do not
wet the foliage. Fungicide applications must begin at the first
sign of disease symptoms.
How often should I water my roses?
Modern roses, such as hybrid teas, floribundas and
grandifloras, require watering during hot, dry weather. The
frequency depends upon weather conditions and soil type.
In most gardens, a thorough watering every seven to 10
days during dry weather is sufficient. If possible, apply the
water directly to the soil around each plant. Overhead
watering wets the foliage and increases disease problems. If
overhead watering is unavoidable, morning is the best time
to water roses. Morning applications allow the foliage to dry
quickly.
An excellent way to conserve soil moisture is by
mulching. Possible mulches include wood chips, shredded
bark, pine needles and cocoa bean hulls. Spread 2 to 4
inches of mulch around each rose or over the entire bed.
Mulches also help to control weeds.
What is the proper planting depth when
planting hybrid tea roses?
Modern roses, such as hybrid tea, grandiflora and
floribunda roses, are propagated by budding. A single bud is
removed from the desired variety and inserted onto a hardy
rootstock. The bud union (the knob-like swelling at the base
of the canes) is sensitive to extreme cold and rapid
temperature changes in winter. Modern roses are essentially
destroyed if all growth above the bud union is destroyed in
winter. When
planting hybrid
tea, grandiflora
and floribunda
roses, the bud
union should be
positioned 2 to 3
inches below
the soil surface
to protect the
bud union and
lower portions of
the canes from
winter damage.
What is the proper way to deadhead roses?
Deadheading or the removal of faded flowers is done to
encourage additional bloom on hybrid tea and other repeatflowering roses. Hybrid tea roses usually have one or two 3leaflet leaves immediately below the flower. Next (lower
down on the stem) are two or more 5-leaflet leaves. The
deadheading procedure is slightly different for newly planted
and established roses. During their first growing season, it’s
usually recommended that the spent flower be removed
above the uppermost 3-leaflet leaf. Removal of a larger
percentage of the rose’s foliage reduces the plant’s ability to
manufacture food and slows growth. When deadheading
established roses, the stem may be cut back to a 5-leaflet
leaf. Retain at least two 5-leaflet leaves on each shoot. Use
sharp tools (hand shears or knife) to remove faded flowers.
Cut about 1/4 inch above an outward facing bud and leaflet
with the cut made parallel to the angle of the leaflet.
How often should I fertilize hybrid tea roses?
To encourage vigorous growth and abundant bloom,
hybrid tea, floribunda and grandiflora roses should be
fertilized two or three times a year. Fertilizer applications
can be made in early spring (immediately after pruning),
during the first bloom period and mid to late July. Do not
fertilize after July 31. Later fertilization will produce
succulent new growth that may not harden sufficiently
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Although it is classed as a vegetable, rhubarb is used as
a fruit because its high acidity gives it a tart flavor. Iowa
State University Extension horticulture specialists answer
gardeners’ questions about growing and using rhubarb.
Whether questions come from gardeners planting their first
rhubarb patch or maintaining an established planting,
extension specialists answer questions using the most
current research. Gardeners with additional questions can
contact the experts by emailing or calling the ISU Extension
horticulture hotline at hortline@iastate.edu or 515-294-3108.
When should I stop harvesting rhubarb?
Gardeners should stop harvesting well established
rhubarb plants in mid-June in Iowa. Continued harvest
through the summer months weakens the rhubarb plants
and reduces the yield and quality of next year’s crop.
Can I harvest rhubarb in August?
If the rhubarb plants are vigorous, pulling a few stalks
and preparing a dish for a special occasion in summer
shouldn’t be a problem. Harvesting rhubarb in summer
should be a one time event, not a frequent practice.
Continued harvest through the summer months weakens the
rhubarb plants and reduces the yield and quality of next
year’s crop. In general, it’s best to stop harvesting rhubarb in
mid-June in Iowa.
There is an erroneous belief that rhubarb stalks are
poisonous in summer. The stalks will likely be a little tougher
than those harvested in spring, but they are not poisonous.
Plant vigor is the reason that rhubarb should not be
harvested in summer.
What would be a good planting site for
rhubarb?
Rhubarb performs best in well-drained, fertile soils that
are high in organic matter. Heavy, clay soils often can be
improved by incorporating organic matter, such as compost
or well-rotted manure, into the upper 12 to 15 inches of soil.
The planting site should also receive at least six to eight
hours of direct sun each day. Avoid shady sites near trees
and shrubs.
When can I start harvesting my newly planted
rhubarb?
Why is my rhubarb flowering?
After planting rhubarb, it’s best to wait two years
(growing seasons) before harvesting any stalks. The twoyear establishment period allows the plants to become
strong and productive.
Rhubarb can be harvested over a four-week period in the
third year. In the fourth and succeeding years, stalks can be
harvested for eight to 10 weeks.
Flower development is natural for rhubarb and most
other plants. Drought, extreme heat and infertile soils may
encourage flowering. Age is another factor. Old plants tend
to flower more than young ones.
Regardless of the reason, flower stalks should be
promptly pulled and discarded. Plants will be less productive
if allowed to flower and set seeds.
Flower formation can be discouraged with good cultural
practices. Water rhubarb plants every seven to 10 days
during dry weather. Sprinkle ½ cup of an all-purpose garden
fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, around each plant in early
spring. Control weeds by shallow hoeing, hand pulling or
mulching.
What is the correct way to harvest
rhubarb?
Harvest rhubarb when the stalks are 10 to 15 inches
long. Grasp the stalk near its base and pull up and slightly to
one side.
Immediately after
harvesting the
rhubarb, remove the
leaf blades from the
stalks with a sharp
knife. Discard the
foliage. The stalks
can be placed in a
plastic bag and
stored in the
refrigerator for two to
four weeks.
When harvesting
rhubarb, do not
remove more than
two-thirds of the fully
developed stalks from any plant at any one time.
Can blueberries be grown successfully in
Iowa?
Blueberries can be grown successfully in Iowa.
However, they do have special growing requirements.
Blueberry plants require a sunny location and a well-drained
soil high in organic matter. Avoid wet, poorly drained sites.
Blueberries are susceptible to root rots in poorly drained
soils.
Soil pH also is important. Blueberries require acid soils
with a pH of 4.0 to 5.5. Since the pH of most Iowa soils is
above this range, the soil pH must be lowered to
successfully grow blueberries.
Home gardeners can lower their soil pH by adding
sphagnum peat moss to the soil. Sulfur also can be used to
acidify the soil. Sulfur should be incorporated into the soil a
year before planting, as it reacts slowly with the soil.
Aluminum sulfate should not be used to acidify the soil, as
large amounts of this material can be toxic to blueberry
plants.
When using sphagnum peat moss to acidify the soil, dig
a wide, shallow hole. Set the plant at the same depth it grew
in the nursery, then backfill with a 50:50 mixture of soil and
moist peat (moisten dry peat before mixing with soil).
Are rhubarb leaves safe to put in the compost
pile?
Although rhubarb leaves do contain poisonous oxalic
acid, they can be placed in the compost pile. Oxalic acid,
like other organic acids, is not readily absorbed by plant
roots. Compost containing decomposed rhubarb leaves can
be safely applied to the vegetable garden.
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About the Authors: Richard Jauron, Horticulture, 515294-1871 , rjauron@iastate.edu; Willy Klein, Extension
Communications and External Relations, 515-294-0662,
wklein@iastate.edu.
Which blueberry varieties perform well in
Iowa?
Highbush and half-high blueberries can be successfully
grown in Iowa.
Highbush blueberries perform best in central and southern
Iowa. Plants develop into 6- to 8-foot-tall shrubs. Suggested
varieties for gardeners in central and southern Iowa include
‘Patriot,’ ‘Blueray,’ ‘Bluejay,’ ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Rubel,’ ‘Jersey’ and
‘Elliott.’
Half-high blueberries possess greater cold hardiness and
are the best choice for gardeners in northern Iowa. Plants
are relatively small (varieties commonly grow 2 to 3 feet tall)
and produce small to medium-size berries. Suggested
varieties are ‘Northblue,’ ‘Northcountry,’ ‘Northsky’ and ‘St.
Cloud.’
Plant two or three blueberry varieties to ensure good
pollination and maximum fruit set.
Iowa Master Gardener Program
Gets New Look
By Jennifer Bousselot, Cynthia Haynes, Christopher
Weishaar
AMES, Iowa – Multiple
designs, several weeks
and 1,200 votes have led
to a new look for the Iowa
Master Gardener program.
The new visual identity
begins with a logo that will
soon start showing up, and
the coming weeks and
months will add other
materials, such as
business cards, banners
I just planted some blueberries. When can I
expect them to produce a crop?
Blueberry plants should not be allowed to bear fruit the
first two years after planting. Any blossoms that form should
be removed. Removal of the flowers maximizes vegetative
growth and increases yields in later years. Blueberry plants
should come into full production by the fifth or sixth year.
Gardeners can expect to harvest five to 10 pounds of fruit
per plant from mature highbush blueberries. Half-high
blueberries generally produce two to three pounds per plant.
and clothing.
“A new visual identity was needed to help represent the
changes and evolution the Master Gardener program has
gone through in recent years,” said Jennifer Bousselot,
Master Gardener coordinator with Iowa State University
Extension. “The new logo design was chosen by the state’s
Master Gardeners, so they have helped shape this program
in the coming years.”
A new logo needed to represent the breadth and depth of
the programs' purposes and activities, as well as the people
associated with it and their gardening interests, reasons for
volunteering and experiences, Bousselot added.
The initial designs included a variety of styles and art
direction before being narrowed down to three logos from
which the state’s Master Gardeners were asked to choose.
A total of 1,200 votes were made, and the winning logo
came away with 52 percent of those votes.
The winning logo, known as the “state” logo, “includes
the most important aspects of our program: a tree/plant
rooted firmly in Iowa soils and the hand of the volunteers
that give this program strength,” said Cynthia Haynes,
Master Gardener professor-in-charge and ISU
Extension horticulture specialist.
Banners, signs, apparel and other materials will be
transitioning to the new logo and visual identity in 2011, but
Master Gardeners are still encouraged to wear their old
logos with pride. Previous logos included the "basket" logo
(1980-98) and "window pane" logo (1998-2011).
Should blueberry plants be fertilized?
Established blueberry plants can be fertilized with an
acid-producing fertilizer, such as ammonium sulfate, in early
spring. Apply one-half to one pound of ammonium sulfate
per 100 square feet of garden area. Ammonium sulfate
supplies nitrogen to the plants and also helps to maintain
soil acidity.
Should blueberry plants be watered during
dry weather?
Blueberries have shallow, fibrous root systems. Plants
quickly become stressed during hot, dry weather. To help
retain moisture and control weeds, apply 2 to 4 inches of
mulch around blueberry plants. Sawdust, wood chips, pine
needles and shredded leaves are excellent mulching
materials. During dry weather, water plants every seven to
10 days.
Do blueberries have insect and disease
problems?
About Iowa Master Gardener program
The Master Gardener program is a volunteer service
training program of ISU Extension in which adults are given
advanced training in horticulture in exchange for volunteer
service to the community. The Iowa Master Gardener
program has more than 3,000 volunteers statewide.
About the Authors: Jennifer Bousselot, Master
Gardener Coordinator, 515-294-4813,
jmbouss@iastate.edu; Cynthia Haynes, Master Gardener
Professor-in-Charge, 515-294-4006, chaynes@iastate.edu;
Christopher Weishaar, Extension Communications and
External Relations, 515-294-1327, cweishaa@iastate.edu.
Phytophthora root rot can be a serious problem in poorly
drained sites. Phytophthora root rot can be avoided by
planting blueberries in well-drained soils. Outside of root
rots, blueberries generally have few insect and disease
problems in Iowa.
Birds can be a problem as they may devour much of the
crop. While scare devices may be helpful, netting is the
most effective way to protect the fruit from birds. Netting
should be placed over the plants when the fruit begin to turn
color. Hang the netting over some type of support structure
with the bottom edges of the netting buried or anchored to
the ground.
6
number so we could manage the number of calls better,”
said Jauron. “Now when the line is busy, folks just have to
call back until they get through.” Or, send an email – which
Jauron says is an ever increasing way that people are
reaching out to Hortline.
Number of Yard and Garden
Questions Coming to Horticulture
Hotline Increasing
By Richard Jauron, Willy Klein
Number of emailed questions increases
AMES, Iowa -- Dead
In the past year alone Hortline received 1,300 email
questions – up from 259 emails in 1997, the first year the
email option was available. Jauron surveyed the 2010 online
clients to learn more about them. “Two-thirds of the
respondents had tried to find an answer another way before
emailing Hortline,” said Jauron. “Most of them (94 percent)
said the answer they received was helpful to very helpful.”
Those surveyed said they looked for an answer by
searching the Internet (84 percent), looking in books and
magazines (45 percent), and talking to friends and relatives
(38 percent) or garden center employees (33 percent). Most
respondents (70 percent) said they had emailed Hortline
one or two times with questions, but 13 percent said they
had emailed five or more times to get gardening answers.
Similar to Hortline callers, two-thirds of the email clients
were female; and tree and shrub questions were asked
more often than other categories of questions.
Jauron reminds Hortline clients in his phone and online
responses that Iowa State and ISU Extension have
additional gardening resources available. His online clients
said they had used many of them, including county offices
(50 percent), yard and garden news columns (41 percent),
ISU Extension online store (40 percent), ISU Horticulture
Web page (36 percent) and Horticulture and Home Pest
News (34 percent). A review of the top 100 publications
downloaded from the ISU Extension online store during the
week of April 25, 2011 reveals that 60 percent of downloads
were yard and garden related.
The Hortline call and email numbers, as well as the
survey results, indicate no shortage of questions for
horticulture specialists and a continuing demand for a
variety of Iowa State yard and garden information.
About the Authors: Richard Jauron, Horticulture, 515294-1871 , rjauron@iastate.edu; Willy Klein, Extension
Communications and External Relations, 515-294-0662
wklein@iastate.edu.
spots in the lawn, shrubs to
prune, insects on garden
vegetables, unidentified
blooming flowers – these are
all things that prompt Iowans
to call Hortline, the Iowa
State University Extension
hotline for consumer
horticulture questions. In
fact, more than 200,000
phone calls have been made
to Hortline since it was
established in May 1983.
Richard Jauron, ISU
Extension horticulturist, is
the Hortline expert at the other end of the phone. Jauron
administers Hortline and has served as the chief question
responder for nearly three decades, with occasional support
from other horticulture staff.
Thousands call Hortline for help
From his Iowa State office in Horticulture Hall, Jauron
answers an average of 3,500 client questions called into
515-294-3108 each year, and replies to a growing number
of emails sent to hortline@iastate.edu. “Questions called
into Hortline are resolved much quicker than questions
emailed by clients,” said Jauron. “When we are on the
phone, I can get details specific to their question and
generally can nail down an answer in a few minutes. Email
questions are often very vague and require a chain of emails
to get all the necessary information, which takes much more
time.”
Jauron says two out of three Hortline callers over the
years have been female, but in 2006 the number of men
calling the hotline began to increase. “With the increase in
male callers, I also saw an increase in tree and shrub
questions and a noticeable decline in houseplant and
vegetable calls,” he said.
When the Hortline phone rings, Jauron can quickly
access a database, drawers filled with reference materials
and a small library of books, but he confesses that many
questions are common and easily answered. The questions
that demand a little more research or a call to a colleague
are the intriguing ones to answer. “With weed, greenhouse
and turf experts right here in the building or very close by
and with the herbarium right next door, there very few
questions that we can’t answer right here at Iowa State,”
Jauron said.
Jauron answers Hortline calls from 10 a.m. to noon and 1
to 4:30 p.m. Monday through Friday. He is the primary
Hortline expert, but that hasn’t always been the case.
Periodically, there has been funding for student interns who
assisted with the calls and emails. For several years,
Hortline was a toll free number with two experts taking calls
on two incoming lines. But that didn’t cut back the work load;
it just doubled the number of calls. “We went back to a local
Hiring Professional Tree Services
By Jesse Randall, Willy Klein
AMES, Iowa--In some tree damage situations, the
homeowner can clean up fallen material and remove
damaged branches on smaller trees. But in many cases, a
tree care professional needs to be hired to manage the
situation safely. According to Jesse Randall, ISU Extension
forester, examples of situations where a tree care
professional should be consulted include: the tree needing
repair is near utility lines, the repair work requires climbing,
removal of large branches is required or the tree is leaning
on a structure or an adjacent tree.
"In cases of widespread tree damage it is not unusual
for individuals calling themselves 'tree specialists' to start
showing up throughout the area looking for work. Owning a
truck and a chainsaw does not automatically qualify
someone as a tree care professional," said Randall. "Most
people in the tree care profession call themselves arborists."
7
Arborists are people who specialize in the management
and care of individual trees, and their education and/or
training is in the field of tree care. There are qualified
arborists throughout the state, but Randall advises
Iowans to protect themselves and their property by
considering the following suggestions when dealing with
storm damaged trees and hiring individuals or companies for
tree care services.
to you immediately if your tree is a danger to people or
surrounding structures.
For more information on taking care of your damaged
tree or trees, contact your local Iowa State University
Extension office.
Photo courtesy of Keven Arrowsmith, Iowa Department
of Transportation.
About the Authors: Jesse Randall, ISU Extension
Forestry, 515-294-1168, randallj@iastate.edu; Willy Klein,
Extension Communications and External Relations, 515294-0662, wklein@iastate.edu.
When hiring tree removal
1) Before anything is done, be sure any trees in question
are on your property. If the tree is in the public right-of-way
contact your local city officials to see who is responsible for
managing trees in these locations.
2) If your tree is
immediately
adjacent to power
lines, contact your
local utility for
potential assistance
with pruning of
broken branches or
removal of
hazardous trees.
Do not prune
around utility lines. This work should be done by trained
professionals only.
3) Beware of people knocking on your door offering to
work on your tree. Most established arborists do not create
new business by going door-to-door.
4) In some communities arborists must be licensed to
work within city limits, so check with city hall to see if this is
a requirement and for a possible list of licensed arborists. If
you live outside of a community or there is no list available
from city hall, check the yellow pages in the phone book for
a listing of tree care professionals under the heading Tree
Services or Tree Care. Also, check with friends or neighbors
who have had work done by a reputable company or
individual.
5) Make sure the individual or company has insurance
for personal and property damage, and workers
compensation. Ask for evidence of this insurance. In some
cases communities have ordinances that specify insurance
requirements for arborists; contact city hall for this
information.
6) Ask for, and check, local references or past clients.
7) If time permits, obtain tree work estimates from
several arborists. Make sure to get a written estimate listing
all work to be done. Read through the details carefully, and
be sure you understand what will be done. The cost of good
tree care is not cheap. Most arborists have a heavy
investment in equipment, labor, safety training and
insurance; a bid for a job has to reflect many of those costs.
8) Before the work starts, obtain some type of written
contract that specifies what will be done, how it will be
accomplished, the costs, and the start and completion dates
for the job.
9) Don't pay for the job until everything agreed upon is
completed.
10) Finally, arborists will be very busy for weeks and
possibly months helping concerned clients following a major
storm, so be patient and prepared to wait to get your needed
work completed. In most cases, tree services will try to get
Cuba City Garden Walk
Tuesday, June 21 4:30 p.m.-8:00 p.m.
Rain date June 28
Self-Guided Walking Tour of Six Gardens
Pick-up the site map with description for the garden walk
at Ruth Ann Summer’s home at 410 S. Main St., 608-7442629. There is a suggested cash donation of $3 per person
to help support Master Gardener’s Scholarship Program.
Return to the Summer’s home at 7:30-8:00 p.m. for the final
garden location and refreshments.
Grant County Master Gardeners
thank the generosity of the hosts for the
Summer Solstice Garden Walk.
Eastern Iowa Pond Society
Pond Tour
Sunday, July 10, 2011 11 a.m.-5 p.m.
Adults $5 (Children 12 and under free)
Held rain or shine
Cedar Rapids sites: 131 Rosedale Rd., 1323 34th St.
SE, 925 26th St. SE, 6702 Spring Cove Ct. NE, 2818
Southland St. SW; in Robins: 430 Beverly St.; in Marion,
1840 Geode St.; in Solon: 304 Pleasant View Dr. NE; in
West Liberty, 1265 Ivan Lane; in Amana: 1375 Baxter
Ave., and in Durango: 20203 Park Hollow Rd.
Wristbands and directions are available at any pond
location on the day of the tour. 11 ponds and water features
around the Eastern Iowa area.
For more info: www.eips.org.
Gardening Tip:
Use mulch. Mulch helps to conserve moisture, control
weeds, and beautifies your flower beds at the same
time.If you have any tips that will help other gardeners,
please email them to me at gordycat24@aol.com.
Please put the words Gardening Tip in the subject
line and I will put them in upcoming newsletters. Thanks
for sharing your tips. Mary Ann Emery
Iowa State University and U.S. Department of
Agriculture Cooperating Extension programs are
available to all without regard to race, color,
national origin, religion, sex, age, or disability.
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