Vol. 14, No.2
March/April 2010
University of Illinois Extension, Pike County Horticulture Newsletter
Pike County
1301 E. Washington St.
Pittsfield, IL 62363
Phone: (217) 285-5543
Fax: (217) 285-5735
If you need a reasonable accommodation to participate
in any program we offer, please contact University of
Illinois Extension, Pike County at 217-285-5543.
Articles in This Issue:
Looking for Email Addresses .............................. 1
Upcoming Events ................................................. 1
Other Upcoming Extension Activities ................. 2
Get Your 4-H Cookbook Today ........................... 2
Easter Lilies ......................................................... 2
Pruning Trees in Spring ...................................... 3
Pesticides – What Are They ................................ 4
Planting Trees & Shrubs ..................................... 4
Lightning & Personal Safety ............................... 5
It’s Time to Plant Onions .................................... 6
Tips for Injury Free Gardening .......................... 6
The Master Gardener’s Plot ................................ 7
Be on the Lookout for Apple Scab ...................... 8
Ticks ..................................................................... 9
Luring the Elusive Hummingbird ....................... 9
University of Illinois Extension Horticulture Educators
as they present ideas for your garden. Included will be a
discussion of tying vegetable gardens into the landscape,
gardening where you have space, square foot gardens,
raised beds, container gardens, gardening with and
Earthbox® and salad table gardens™. Horticulture
Educators are Jennifer Fishburn, Jeff Rugg, and Jennifer
Nelson. Registration Deadline: Friday, April 9.
Don’t Fear the Shade Garden
Tuesday, April 27 at 1:00 p.m.
Has your landscape matured leaving you with more
shady areas? Don’t know what plants to consider for
these gardens now shaded by mature trees? Don’t let a
shady area keep you from having a beautiful garden.
With the variety of plants available, hostas are no longer
the last resort for that shady area in your garden.
Horticulture Educator, Kari Houle, will get you excited
about gardening in the shade. Deadline to register: Friday,
April 23.
Remember We Are Looking for Email
Addresses
If you would like to receive your “Down
To Earth” horticulture newsletter via
email, please send your email address to
cwestfal@illinois.edu
Upcoming Events
Spring 2010 Horticulture Telenets Offered
They all begin at 1:00 p.m. Please call our office at
(217) 285-5543 by the deadline for each session.
Vegetable Gardening in Small Yard Spaces
Tuesday, April 13 at 1:00 p.m.
Growing fresh vegetables is a source of family fun,
exercise, and fresh produce. But what do you do when
you have limited space to grow a garden? Join
Cut Flowers for All Seasons
Tuesday, May 11 at 1:00 p.m.
One of the main joys of having a garden is the
ability to grow show-stopping plants - not just
in the garden, but cut and used indoors. The
clichè “stop and smell the flowers” is really
true – they’re part of our emotion al wellbeing. Different annual and perennial plants can provide
an abundance of cut flowers throughout the season with
emphasis and low-input and maximum impact. Jim
Schmidt, Horticulture Specialist will take you through
the steps in planning the garden, which varieties are best
for cutting purposes, and how to handle the flowers for
longevity. Registration deadline: Friday, May 7.
Registration Details: Each session is $5. Handout
materials will be in color. Advance registration is
needed the Friday before the program you attend. If
you would like a CD of the program, please add an
additional $2.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Other Upcoming Extension Activities
Advanced Breadmaking – April 13 from
5:30 – 7:30 p.m. Participants will see
demonstrations on breads such as focaccia and
bagels and will be involved in hands-on making of a
whole-grain bread that they will be able to take home
and bake. Call and reserve your seat by calling us at
285-5543 by April 12.
Getting Back to Basics – Make Your Own Master
Mixes – April 20 from 5:30 p.m. – 7:30 p.m.
Participants will be doing hands-on preparation for
seasoning mixes, meat sauce mix, and magic mix as well
as learning about basic baking mixes and general
information about healthy cooking. Each individual will
work on mixes and have a sample of a mix to take home
with them.
Advance registration is required to participate in the
program. The $10 registration fee is for materials and
handouts. To register for the class, call the Pike County
Extension Office at 217-285-5543.
Get your 4-H Cookbook Today!
Many members have nostalgic memories
of learning food skills through the great
projects and recipes offered through
4-H. The Illinois 4-H Cookbook has more
than 150 recipes from 4-H foods project
books such as You Learn to Bake, ABC’s
of Food, Adventures in Cooking, It’s Fun
to Cook, Milk & Eggs, Meat, Pastry and
Yeast Breads in Your Meals are included in this 8/12 x
11’ spiral bound cookbook. The cookbook costs $15.00.
Call the extension office at 285-5543 or email
cemyers@illinois.edu
Easter Lilies
Jeff Rugg, U of I Horticulture/IPM Educator
Easter lilies make a nice houseplant and can be planted
in a perennial garden later. Even if you do not celebrate
Easter, you should get an Easter lily.
The Easter lily is native to southern Japan. Prior to
World War II, the bulbs were imported from there.
Today more than 95 percent of all Easter lily bulbs are
produced on just 10 farms along the Pacific coast in a
half-mile wide and 12-mile-long strip of land on the
California and Oregon border.
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Most of the bulbs are the 'Nellie White' variety that
James White named after his wife. Every few years,
each grower selects a few plants to determine if a new
variety can be developed with desirable production
qualities.
Even though Easter lilies have only a twoweek sales window, different every year due
to the movement of Easter in the calendar, they
are the fourth-largest potted plant crop behind
poinsettias, mums, and azaleas. Even though we
see them for such a short time, they require
year-round production work to produce. Each
bulb takes two, three, and maybe four years to grow
large enough to sell. Because Easter is a moving holiday,
it is difficult to get lilies to re-bloom on time for the
holiday. Greenhouse growers work very hard, many
years beginning before Christmas to get them to bloom
on time.
When you purchase a lily, look for plants that have
large, unopened buds.
By looking at several plants, you can observe the natural
progression of how the flower buds open. If you are
buying the plants a week or more before Easter, you will
want more buds to be unopened. If you are buying the
plant right before Easter, you will want more flowers
already in bloom.
An opened flower should last a week or longer before
wilting. Any unopened buds that are starting to turn
brown will fall off before blooming. To keep the flower
white, it is a good idea to pinch off the yellow anthers as
soon as the flower opens so they do not drop pollen on
the flower's petals. Removing the pollen will help make
the flower last longer too because pollinated flowers
fade quickly.
Check the leaves at the base of the stem. They should
not be turning yellow and falling off. If the pot is
wrapped in foil, peel it back and check to see the
condition of the leaves. If the soil is either too dry or
waterlogged, get a different plant. The flowers may not
open on a plant that has been mistreated.
If you are buying the plant on a day when the
temperature is near freezing, keep the plant protected
from the cold. Don't buy plants stored in a tall paper
sleeve as they tend to deteriorate quickly.
The lily will bloom longer if you keep the high
temperature at about 70 degrees during the day and
between 40 and 50 degrees at night. Warmer
temperatures will speed the flowering process.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
If you are planting the lily outside after Easter, flower
removal will help make the plant's food production go
into enlarging the bulb and not producing seeds. They
are not easy plants to get to re-bloom the following year
when grown as a houseplant. They will re-bloom easily
if planted outdoors in zones three through seven.
Keep them in bright, indirect light until the outdoor
nighttime temperatures stay above the 40s. Plant them
in a partially sunny site with well-drained soil, about six
inches deep, and add a few inches of mulch.
Next year, they will bloom in mid-summer. They make a
nice display when planted in masses, so after Easter, go
to the store and buy all of the ones they have left, even if
they are no longer in bloom, and plant them outdoors at
the proper time.
In zones eight through ten, they can be planted outside
for the summer. In the fall, dig them up and plant them
in potting soil in a pot an inch wider than the bulb.
Refrigerate the whole pot for eight to twelve weeks,
keeping the soil damp. Take them out and leave them in
the pot or replant in the ground.
If the lily has discolored flecks on the leaf that run
lengthwise, it may have a virus that aphids can spread to
other lilies in your garden, so do not plant that one in the
garden.
Pruning Trees in Spring
David Robson, U of I Horticulture Educator
There is an old saying that you can prune a tree
whenever the saw is sharp. However, the effects of
pruning a tree can vary with the season and according to
how much of the tree is pruned away. Early spring
pruning of trees is often preferred because plants are
approaching a period of rapid growth and pruning
wounds will heal quickly.
In general, if all you want to do is trim out dead, weak,
or diseased parts of the tree, this type of pruning can be
done at any time of the year without drastic effects on
the tree. If you prune to thin the trees—to allow light for
grass and shrubs—prune in late winter or early spring.
Heavy pruning done after growth starts in spring can
weaken a tree because it forces the tree to use stored
food for re-growth instead of for new growth. Heavy
pruning during late summer should also be avoided
because it can stimulate lush, succulent growth.
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Elm, ash and oak are an exception. Prune elm and oak
during late summer, fall or winter to avoid the change of
infection with Dutch elm disease and oak wilt disease.
Insects can spread these diseases, and fresh wounds
made during the growing season are likely attractants.
Ash trees under stress should not be pruned during June
or July because of the likelihood of an infestation with
ash borer.
Birch and maple are known as bleeders and will "bleed"
clear sap if pruned in early spring. Bleeding will not
harm a tree but causes concern to owners because of sap
loss. To avoid sap loss, prune after trees are fully leafed
out.
Many people feel large trees should be topped. This is an
unfortunate misconception. Rather than eliminating "top
heaviness," topping produces a weak tree subject to
major problems. When a tree is topped, large branches
are drastically cut back in length. A majority of the
small, leaf bearing branches are also removed. Topping a
tree leaves many large stubs that can provide an ideal
entrance for insects and diseases. The shearing effect
results in a mass of growth the following year, near the
end of each cut. These branches are weak and easily
broken.
A more severe problem caused by topping occurs in the
root system. A delicate balance exists between the leaf
and root area. When a large number of branches are
removed, portions of the root system will die because
there are not enough leaves to manufacture food for the
root system. Disease organisms that lead to rotting
frequently attack these dead and dying roots.
Improper pruning of limbs can also lead to weak,
hollowed trunks. Pruning cuts should be made close to
the trunk, a bud or branch. Do not leave stubs. Stubs are
an open invitation to rot and decay and eventually can
lead to rot entering healthy tissue and the trunk. Proper
pruning averts this problem.
Proper pruning techniques include: removing dead or
dying branches; eliminating narrow, v-shaped crotch
angles; trimming out limbs that grow towards the center
of the tree; removing limbs that rub together; making
cuts close to the trunk or branch and not leaving stubs.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Pesticides—What Are They?
David Robson, U of I Horticulture Educator
Pesticides are used every day, but many people are not
aware of their properties and uses. A pesticide is any
chemical that is used to kill, repel or control a pest. It is
important to remember that a pesticide may not always
“kill” the pest, but the pesticide controls the pest.
4
Agency and Department of Agriculture so that they are
used properly and safely.
All pesticides should be applied according to the
directions on their label. Failure to follow labeled
instructions is a violation of the federal law.
Planting Trees and Shrubs
Pest, in this definition, refers to animals, weeds or
microorganisms that compete with a resource desired or
needed by man. Gardeners usually view pesticides as
controlling insects, weeds or diseases.
The term pesticide covers many types of chemicals that
are known by specific name depending on the type of
pest it controls. For instance, insecticides are chemicals
used to control insects and other related animals like
mites. In a similar manner herbicides control weeds;
fungicides control fungi; bactericides control bacteria;
rodenticides control rats, mice and other rodents;
avicides control birds and molluscides control slugs and
snails.
Pesticides affect the target organisms in several ways.
Many interfere with vital life processes, causing death.
The insecticide Malathion affects the insect’s nervous
system. The rodenticide warfarin prevents blood clotting
in rats leading to internal hemorrhaging.
Attractants are also a type of pesticide. Pheromones
include insect hormones that attract insects. These are
used in luring insects into a trap, luring them away from
susceptible plants or confusing them so much that they
do not feed or mate.
Repellents keep pests from infesting certain areas or
from tormenting humans. Think about the products you
apply to your skin and clothing to avoid mosquitoes.
Plant growth regulators change the normal growth or
reproduction of a plant. The herbicide 2,4-D speeds up
the growth of plants in small concentrations, but plants
grow abnormally or die when exposed to higher
concentrations.
Paraquat, an example of a harvest-aid, causes leaf drop
in cotton so that the plant dries and can be harvested
more efficiently.
Pesticides are a wide and diverse group of chemicals.
These chemicals are an aid to our way of life, but they
are closely regulated by the Environmental Protection
David Robson, U of I Horticulture
Educator
Planting woody ornamentals is not as
simple as just digging a hole and placing the plant in the
middle, watering and keeping your fingers crossed. A
properly planted tree or shrub should adapt quickly to
the surroundings and produce at least 12 to 18 inches of
new growth a year.
The first step is digging the hole. Make sure the hole is
no deeper than the root ball of the plant. You can
measure the depth needed by measuring the height of the
container or balled-and-burlapped specimen. Use a tape
measure, or place your spade next to the root ball or
container. Use a marker or piece of tape to indicate how
deep you need to dig. Dig the hole only as deep as the
root ball is high.
Digging deeper allows the plant to settle, creating a
depression. This in turn encourages the homeowner to
add more soil around the base of the tree to level the
ground. Covering the roots with extra soil can lead to
root rots, stem rots and trees that fall over after several
years. A tree that is planted at the correct depth will start
showing the flare at the base within five years of
planting in most cases.
While the hole is no deeper than the root system, it
should be at least 2 to 3 times wider at a minimum. This
allows for roots to spread out and avoids girdling roots.
In other words, if the diameter of the root system is 1
foot, the hole should be at least 2 to 3 feet wide. It does
not hurt for it to be wider by 4 or 5 times the diameter
root ball and may help in the long run. It just may be
impractical if you are putting trees and shrubs into
existing landscapes.
Set the plant in the hole at the same level as it was
growing in the container or the ground. Do not assume
that balled-and-burlapped plants are at the same level.
Often, soil is added around the stems during the digging
process.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
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On any tree or shrub, the trunk’s flare should be at
ground level. This is the location where the roots attach
to the trunk and flare out. For some plants this may mean
spreading some of the soil away from the top.
plant the specimen up to one-third above ground and
slope additional soil away from the plant gradually. This
requires additional soil brought in to prevent root
damage and puddling around surrounding plants.
Container-grown plants need the roots spread out. The
easiest method is to remove the plant from the pot, set it
on its side and take a sharp knife to the root system,
butterflying it in quarters half way up. This entails
starting at the bottom of the soil ball and slicing a third
to half way up. Then rotate the root ball 90 degrees and
do the same on this side.
Newly planted trees should be mulched out to the drip
line or planting hole with no more than 4 inches of
mulch. Water trees regularly, and stake only if
necessary.
Take your hands and carefully spread the soil and roots
apart. This process severs the roots that may have been
growing around the inside of the container, which
eventually develop into girdling roots.
If you butterfly the root system and spread the roots out,
you will soon realize that your planting hole was too
deep. Additional soil may need to be backfilled, or a
cone of soil may need to be created to set the plant on
and spread the roots over.
You will break some roots; but, at the same time, you
will encourage new roots. Damaged and dead roots
should be pruned out.
The current recommendation is not to amend the backfill
soil with peat moss or other organic matter. The goal is
to encourage the roots to adapt and grow in the
surrounding soil. Digging a wider hole helps the roots
adapt quickly.
If you are amending the soil, use an organic product
such as compost.
When backfilling or filling in the soil around the roots, it
may be easier to fill in some of the soil, wet it
thoroughly, add more soil, water and continue until you
are finished. This drives a “mud pie” solution or slurry
around the roots and makes sure they are not exposed to
air pockets.
Balled-and-burlapped specimens should have the top
burlap or fabric rolled down well below the soil line to
prevent it from acting as a wick and drying out the soil
ball. While it is not necessary to remove the material, it
is necessary to cut all strings and wires to allow the plant
to grow without obstruction. Nowhere is this more
important than around the trunk of the tree.
If soil drainage is a problem—and particularly for
rhododendron, azaleas, dogwood and redbud trees—
Lightning and Personal Safety
Duane Friend, U of I Natural Resources Educator
As spring progresses, we turn our eyes to the
skies because thunderstorms become a
concern. Lightning reportedly kills an
average of 67 people each year in the United
States.
There are several important points to keep in mind to
keep yourself protected from a lightning strike.
*When you see lightning, count the time until you hear
thunder. If that time is 30 seconds or less, the
thunderstorm is within six miles of you and is
dangerous. Seek shelter immediately.
*Do not stand under or next to a tree. If you cannot get
to an indoor location, crouch in the open, keeping twice
as far from a tree as it is tall.
*If there is a group of people outdoors, keep several
yards distance from each other. Unless well grounded,
open pavilions or other small shelters will not provide
adequate protection.
*Lightning can enter a building through electrical and
phone lines, plumbing pipes or radio/television
antennas—from a direct strike or from wires or pipes
that extend outside the structure. If you are indoors,
avoid contact with corded phones or contact with
electrical equipment. Also avoid contact with plumbing,
and do not lie or lean on concrete floors and walls. Stay
away from windows and doors, and stay off of porches.
*Typical surge protectors will not protect equipment
from a strike. During a storm, appliances, and electronic
equipment—including antenna connections—should be
unplugged to the extent possible.
If someone is struck by lightning, call 911 or other
emergency services. Check the victim’s breathing and
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
6
pulse, and begin CPR if necessary and if you are trained
to do so.
plants. The green onions are in salsa and salad long
before the broccoli gets big.
Where lightning entered and left the body, burns may be
present. In addition, other problems such as broken
bones, loss of hearing or eyesight and other nervous
system damage may be present. After being struck, the
victim does not carry any residual charge, so a rescue
person should not be afraid of being shocked.
To produce dry onions, plant the smaller sets 1 inch
deep, with 2 to 4 inches between sets. If sets are planted
2 inches apart, harvest every other plant as green onions
to alleviate crowding and allow bulb formation.
For more information on lightning and lightning safety,
go to the NOAA lightning website at
www.lightningsafety.noaa.gov/overview.htm.
It’s Time to Plant Onions
Sandra Mason, U of I Horticulture and Environment
Educator
You can broil 'em, boil 'em, bake 'em and flake 'em;
cream 'em, steam 'em, fry 'em and dry 'em. If you are
itching to plant something, consider the versatile onion.
Late March through early April is the perfect time for
planting onions.
Onions can be grown from seeds, sets
(baby bulbs) or transplants (baby plants).
Seeds take the longest to produce so
most gardeners stick with sets or transplants.
However many more varieties are available as seed than
as sets or transplants. The simplest method is growing
green onions from sets. Dry onions can also be produced
from sets; however the best storage onions develop from
transplants.
Several varieties are used for onion sets. Unfortunately
they lose their varietal identity by the time they arrive at
garden centers where yellow, white or red are the only
choices. Purchase firm, dormant sets. If necessary, store
sets in a cool, dry, dark place before planting. Most
gardeners prefer white sets for green onions, but red or
yellow sets can also be used.
When purchasing sets select the size according to your
desire for green onions, dry onions or both. Onion sets
larger than a dime in diameter are best for green onions.
Large sets may form flower stalks which translates into
poor onion storage. The small sets, smaller than a dime,
produce the best bulbs for large, dry onions. Divide the
onion sets into two sizes before planting.
To produce green onions, plant the larger sets shoulder
to shoulder at one and one half inches deep. As a space
saver I plant my green onions between my broccoli
Onion transplants produce the best dry storage onions.
Transplants are sold in bundles of usually 60 to 80
plants. Five or six different varieties are available as
transplants. In general look for long day varieties.
Onions start bulb formation when the day length is of the
proper duration and different varieties of onions require
different day lengths. Long-day varieties are usually best
for our area and short-day varieties are best grown in the
southern U.S.
Plant transplants 1 to 1 1/2 inches deep. Space
transplants 4 to 5 inches apart in the row to produce
large-sized bulbs (closer spacing significantly decreases
bulb size) or space 2 to 2 1/2 inches apart and harvest
every other plant as a green onion. Allow 12 to 18 inches
between rows or space onions 6 to 8 inches apart in all
directions in beds.
To develop long, white stems for green onions, slightly
hill the row by pulling the loose soil toward the onions
with a hoe when the tops are 4 inches tall. Do not hill
onions that are for dry storage. Hilling can cause the
necks of the stored onions to rot.
Green onions can be harvested as soon as the plants are
6 inches tall. Green onions develop stronger flavor with
age. All parts above the roots are edible.
Harvest dry onions in late July or early August, when
most of the tops have fallen over naturally.
Onions have few insects and diseases, but require fertile
well drained soil and do not compete well with weeds.
Check out UI Extension website for more vegetable
gardening tips. http://web.extension.illinois.edu/state
Tips For “Injury-Free: Gardening”
Sandra Mason, U of I Horticulture and Environment
Educator
Some things are assured. Our daffodils bloom in April.
Our backs ache in May. But it doesn't have to be that
way. It may not be so much what we do, as how we do
it. By rethinking our gardening techniques we may be
able to at least lessen the need for an aspirin.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Have more fun and less fatigue with these gardening
tips:
*Avoid doing the same task for more than 30 minutes.
Take regular breaks to give your parts a rest. If
necessary, set a timer. Actually sit in those fancy
benches we buy and enjoy the view.
*Stretch before, during and after. Try yoga and improve
your flexibility.
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*Reserve wheelbarrows for light weight materials.
Heavy items may shift in transit and cause you to twist
your back.
*Enlist a garden buddy. Start an exchange program.
Offer to work on their project this week and next week
you both work on yours. It's amazing how much faster
the work proceeds when you garden with a buddy.
*Stay healthy. Remember as you get older your body's
maintenance crew takes longer breaks.
*Remember what your mom told you- "Stand up
straight!" Maintain good posture at all times as you
work.
*Lift objects by bending at the knees not bending your
back.
*Hold items close to your body. One of my worst
injuries occurred when I bought some bags of soil after
work. Of course I had my business clothes on and my
momma raised me right so I didn't want to get my
clothes dirty. So I picked up the bags and I held them
away from my body. I felt a twinge as though a rubber
band had broken in my back. Keep an old shirt or coat in
your vehicle for those unplanned shopping occasions. Or
make sure you always have your garden slave around to
carry bags.
*Avoid unnecessary twisting. Instead of shoveling soil
or compost by digging and twisting to empty the shovel,
move your feet instead. When raking, don't reach. Keep
the center of gravity and movement close to your body.
Move to the chore – Don't bring the chore to you.
Sometimes just finding the right tools makes gardening
easier.
*Purchase pruners that fit your hand. When pruner
handles are expanded completely they shouldn't go past
your first knuckle. Many brands such as Felco offer
pruners for large to small hands and even pruners for
lefties.
*Check out the heavy duty gel knee pads available in the
flooring section of lumber supply stores.
*Use a hand truck or dolly to move heavy bags of soil,
mulch or fertilizer.
*Use a wheeled chair or "scoot seat" designed for garden
use. If possible take it for a test drive. Some of them
work better on concrete than they do in grass or mulch.
*Use a cart with big wheels. Small wheels do not roll
well in mulch or on uneven surfaces.
“Ladybug, ladybug, fly away home!
“Your house is on fire, your children will burn!
“(All but one - her name is Nan -,
“(She crawled under the dishpan.)”
Nursery rhyme
The Master Gardener’s Plot
by Duane Lanchester, Pike County Master Gardener
By the time you read this, most of the ladybugs in your
house will have crawled out from the crevices and
corners where they have been hiding since last fall when
they mistook your house for a wild cliff where they
could find cozy places to hide until spring. Now, having
slept all winter, they are ready to go back to the farms
and fields to feast on aphids - if they can find the way.
They can’t open windows. And, when they can get out,
they don’t have a GPS to get them where they want to
go. So they just bumble around inside your house.
They don’t really hurt anything, but you probably don’t
like them hiding in your bed or crawling on your
toothbrush. They tend to be something more than an
irritant to Pike County homemakers - particularly those
of us who live in the middle of bean fields, or a pea
patch, or anywhere attractive to aphids.
There are tales that the ladybugs on your ceiling
are not the sweet, gentle ladybugs of your
childhood. These are a strain of “foreign” superbugs imported by a cabal of evil scientists on the
pretence these more aggressive ladybugs would remove
the threat to our agriculture posed by --APHIDS! (How,
the tale-bears ask, could an aphid, a tiny and vulnerable
spot of green goop, threaten the production of our great
American farms?)
During my teens, I spent summers counting pea aphids
in a United States Department of Agriculture laboratory.
(I like to think I hold the record for pea aphids counted.)
I heard farmers discuss the cost of spraying insecticide a
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
couple times a summer. I saw untreated fields
completely destroyed by hoards of tiny, sap sucking
aphids. So perhaps these ladybugs are doing exactly
what the government entomologists hoped they would
do - eat so many aphids that farmers don’t have to use
insecticides on them. And the Spring Pilgrimage of the
ladybugs through our homes is merely an “unintended
consequence.”
So if there are still ladybugs in your house, how do you
get rid of them? Hit them with a fly swatter, they leave a
yellow dot on your ceiling or wall. Pick them by hand,
they stink. A friend sprays her window screens with
Off. (I don’t see how that would get rid of the ladybugs,
but you could try. If it works and the ladybugs
disappear, you can claim credit. If it doesn’t work the
lady bugs will still disappear and you can still claim
credit.) I find if I open the top of a window crowded
with ladybugs on a warm day, they have a “half-life” (to
use a term for carbon dating) of about 25 minutes. In
other words in twenty-five minutes half the ladybugs
around that window will bumble their way out. In the
next twenty-five minutes half of the rest will leave. But
most Pike Countians will lose patience and grab a can of
insecticide and spray the little buggers. This usually
works. It’s sad to kill all those good insects, but if a
plant in the wrong place is a weed, a ladybug in the
wrong place is a pest.
But are there “unintended consequences”? People who
will spray ladybugs will spray anything with six legs.
And having eight legs is even more dangerous in the
vicinity of humankind. (I couldn’t believe a recent study
that showed Americans are more afraid of spiders than
they are of death.) Will the indiscriminate use of
insecticides create resistant insects just as the overuse of
antibiotics has produced drug-resistant germs? More
immediate, as we have increased the use of pesticides,
the numbers of domesticated bees have decreased. This
does not just mean a loss of honey, but fewer pollinators
that make it possible for fruits and vegetables to
develop. Is there a relationship between the use of
insecticides and the death of bees?
It’s Spring! Go out and plant something. And while you
are at it, think about how our actions effect nature for
good and will.
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Be on the Lookout for Apple Scab
Sandra Mason, U of I Horticulture and Environment
Educator
Some things are sure bets. Compost
happens. Spring will get here. The
rabbits will find the $25-tulips before
they find the 25-cent tulips. And some
crabapple trees will flower beautifully
in the spring, but will have barren branches in August.
Unfortunately some crabapple and apple trees are
susceptible to a fungal disease called apple scab.
Symptoms of apple scab usually start on the undersides
of leaves. Spots, at first, are small, irregular light brown
to olive green lesions. As infection continues, lesions
become more circular and velvety olive green to black.
Leaves may curl and scorch at the margins. By midsummer leaves usually turn yellow and drop. If fruit
stems become infected, fruits may drop early. Apple
fruits may develop scabby lesions.
Infections occur during moist conditions (rain, dew or
constant irrigation). The temperature affects the severity
of infections. In order for infection to occur in cool
weather, plants must remain wet relatively longer than in
warm weather.
Three options are available for apple scab management
on crabapples:
First option - do nothing and let the tree defoliate each
summer. Apple scab is generally not life threatening for
the plant, but certainly lessens its ornamental appeal
unless you enjoy naked branches in August. As with
other diseases, try to keep plants healthy by watering
during drought. Good sanitation practices may help.
Remove and destroy any fallen leaves, flowers, and fruit
as soon as possible.
Second option is a fungicide program. Several
fungicides labeled for apple scab control include:
mancozeb, chlorothalanil (sold as Daconil), calcium
polysulfides (sold as Hi-yield Lime Sulfur and Ortho
Lime-Sulfur), copper sulfate or potassium bicarbonate
(sold as Bonide Remedy). Be sure to read and follow all
label directions and precautions.
The battle against scab is won or lost during late April
through early June (from bud break to fruit set). Begin
fungicide spraying as leaves develop and continue
according to label intervals until frequent wetting by rain
has lessened, usually by July 1. If some spray intervals
are missed, apple scab would be lessened but complete
control may be lost.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
Remember fungicide sprays are predominantly
protectants against infection so new leaves have to be
sprayed before infection occurs. Thorough and uniform
covering of all leaves and developing fruits is required
for control.
In addition fungicide sprays would have to be applied
every year to protect the tree. Remember once leaves
start to yellow and fall off the tree it is too late to spray
fungicide for control during the current growing season.
The third option would be to prune horizontally at the
soil line. Remove the tree and replace with scab resistant
crabapple cultivars. Unfortunately many of the older
cultivars such as 'Hopa', 'Almey' and 'Eleyi' are
susceptible to diseases. There are many beautiful
crabapple cultivars that are resistant to apple scab as
well as powdery mildew and fireblight.
One of my favorites is 'Snowdrift'. The red flower buds
open into single white flowers which cover the tree from
late April into early May. The flowers are followed by
small orange-red fruits that persist into winter until the
cardinals snack on them. Any fruits left in spring quickly
get gobbled up by the robins.
'Prairiefire' is an introduction from the University of
Illinois that reaches 15 to 20 feet tall. The dark red
flowers, shiny red bark, persistent red fruit and disease
resistance make 'Prairiefire' a beautiful addition to the
landscape.
Remember resistance doesn't mean complete immunity
to disease. During some exceptionally wet years resistant
varieties may get apple scab, but to a lesser degree than
susceptible cultivars.
For more information on apple scab, Report on Plant
Disease No. 803.
Ticks
Ed Billingsley, U of I CED
If you walk in weedy overgrown cover,
chances are you will find a tick. One
usually finds ticks either crawling or
attached somewhere on their body. The
fear is that they may infect you with Lyme disease.
If a tick is found attached, one should remove it
carefully. The tick might be saved in rubbing alcohol.
Also write down the day the tick was removed and any
other information in case of problems. Should a rash or
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other symptoms of Lyme disease appear you could share
information with your doctor.
Ticks are not insects. Insects have 6 legs and adult ticks
have 8. These small parasites are blood sucking and are
transported by their host.
Ticks can move quickly for their size but they do not
jump on their host. They do occasionally fall from trees
to land on a host.
If you plan on being outdoors, treat yourself with a
product containing DEET. If pesticides are not on your
list then common duck tape wrapped around your pant
legs with the sticky side out will detour some from
crawling up your pant legs.
Treat tall grassy areas or places pets lie with a
permethrin spray.
It is very difficult to prevent tick bites if you hike or
work outdoors. But a thorough check of one's body
should always follow an outdoor adventure. Monitor the
tick bite for a rash and if needed consult your doctor.
Luring the Elusive Hummingbird
Jennifer Schultz Nelson, U of I Horticulture Educator
A sure sign that spring has truly
arrived and summer is not far
behind is the return of the
hummingbirds. Their rapid,
darting flight is unlike any other
creature in the garden. Many
people want to attract
hummingbirds to their garden, and
luckily it's relatively easy to do.
Hummingbirds are uniquely an American bird. They are
found only in the Western Hemisphere, in North and
South America. There are between 325 and 340 species
of hummingbirds in the world, depending on how the
birds are classified."
Most of these nearly 340 species live in the tropics.
Seventeen species regularly nest in the United States.
Near the border of the United States and Mexico, there
may be a few additional species that visit the United
States but do not nest. Most regions of the United States
have only one or two nesting species. East of the
Mississippi River it has been observed that the rubythroated hummingbird is the only nesting species.
Pike County Down To Earth Newsletter
In addition to sightings of the ruby-throated
hummingbird, there have been confirmed sightings of
other species, such as Rufous, broad-billed, and Allen's
hummingbird.
The ruby-throated hummingbird has a green back and
light belly. The male has a bright red patch on his neck
and throat called the gorget. These stiff feathers are
highly reflective and typically bright in color. They will
look dark and dull until they catch the light and their
metallic beauty is revealed.
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Flowers which attract hummingbirds tend to be red or
orange in color and tubular shaped. They may also point
downward, making it easy for a hovering hummingbird
to gain access. To attract hummingbirds, try planting bee
balm (Monarda didyma), cardinal flower (Lobelia
cardinalis), trumpet creeper (Campsis radicans), cypress
vine (Ipomoea quamoclit), or sage (Salvia splendens).
Scientists are concerned about increased sightings of
hummingbirds outside of their normal range. Are
changes in weather altering their typical migration paths
and winter or summer homes? This remains to be seen.
Another option for attracting hummingbirds is to use a
feeder filled with sugar water to mimic nectar. There are
many styles available, made of glass or plastic. Invest in
one that is easy to fill and clean. Keeping feeders clean
is essential to prevent mold from growing, which can
sicken or even kill hummingbirds. Change the nectar
solution every three to five days to prevent mold growth
and fermentation.
Hummingbirds have extremely fast metabolisms,
necessary to power the rapid beating of their wings.
Combined with their tiny size, this means they must eat
nearly constantly.
There are lots of instant nectar products available for use
in hummingbird feeders. But many bird experts would
argue that the best ingredients are probably in your
kitchen right now: sugar and water.
They consume most of their calories with their
specialized beaks from sugary nectar produced in
flowers. Their beaks are narrow enough to get to the
bottom of flowers where nectar is produced, and their
grooved tongue laps up the nectar.
To make nectar, add one cup of sugar to four cups of
boiling water. Stir until sugar dissolves, cool the
solution, and fill your feeders. Refrigerate any leftovers
for up to one week. Red food coloring is not necessary
and may harm hummingbirds.
A hummingbird will typically consume more than their
body's weight in nectar each day. They will also eat an
occasional insect or spider for additional nutrients,
especially when feeding young.
Enjoy hummingbirds while
they're here. Before we know it,
summer will fade and they will
begin their long migration to
Mexico.
It has been said that hummingbirds are always within a
few hours of starving to death. They typically have only
enough energy stored in their body to get them through
the night. If the temperature dips unexpectedly at night
or there is some other demand on their energy at night,
hummingbirds may slip into 'torpor'. Torpor is a very
deep sleep-like state in which the bird's metabolism
slows down and their body temperature drops. If this
state lasts longer than one night, it could be called
hibernation.
The one time of year that hummingbirds do store up
more than a night's worth of energy is migration. When
the ruby-throated hummingbird migrates to Mexico each
fall, it crosses the Gulf of Mexico on a non-stop flight
lasting 18 to 20 hours.
Hummingbirds are typically not very social birds. This
is thought to be partially due to competition for food.
Flowers produce nectar relatively slowly, so individual
hummingbirds tend to stake a claim and defend their
favorite flowers.
The articles in this newsletter have been
provided for you by University of Illinois
Extension, Pike County office.
Jennifer Mowen, County Extension Director
Newsletter Compiled and Designed by Cheryl Westfall, Office
Support Associate
If you have any questions or comments regarding the issue of
“Down To Earth”, please contact University of Illinois Extension,
Pike County, at (217) 285-5543.
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign College of
Agricultural, Consumer and Environmental Sciences
United States Department of Agriculture • Local Extension
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equal opportunities in programs and employment.