Fruits and Nuts
Selection and Culture
From: http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Hortlineindex.asp?code=E1
Apple Varieties
Apples are a favorite fruit in Missouri. There are many varieties from which to choose. Each is
unique. The fruit may differ in size, color, shape, flavor, texture, cooking, freezing and storage
abilities as well as season of ripening and resistance and immunity to diseases.
Starkrimson Red Delicious is excellent in productivity and fruit quality. The tree produces even
after brutal winters. It is a good pollinator for other apple trees. Fruit is solid with a red blush that
brightens as the fruit matures. It stores well and ripens in late September.
Golden Delicious is vigorous and a heavy producer. It begins bearing yearly and is a good
pollinator for Red Delicious. The fruit is large with an attractive yellow skin. It is excellent for
eating with a mild, sweet flavor and crisp texture. It can also be used for applesauce and juice. It
needs high humidity for storage but can be stored for 7-8 months. Ripens in early October.
Jon-A-Red Jonathan, although susceptible to fire blight and mildew, is a vigorous, hardy, and
productive tree. It has bright, blazing red fruit with a glossy skin and snappy, crisp flesh. It is a
good cider and dessert apple. Stores well. Ripens in min-September. No pollinator is needed.
Empire - this McIntosh-type apple is excellent for eating or pies. Trees are very productive and
resist fire blight and cedar-apple rust. It has deep full-red fruit with superb flavor. It is firmer
than McIntosh with better shelf and storage life. Ripens in mid-September.
Granny Smith bears early and abundantly. It is a long bloomer with frost-tolerated flowers.
Pollinate with Gala. Granny Smith's have a dark green skin with white flesh and a sprightly
flavor. It is good for fresh eating, juice, and pies. Can be stored up to 9 months. Ripens 6-7
weeks after Red Delicious.
Lodi can withstand frigid winters. It's fruit very often develops a pretty pink blush but it is best if
picked while still green and about 3" in diameter. Pollinate with Prima. Lodi has a sweet but
tangy flavor and smooth skin with crisp, white flesh. Use soon after picking for pies, applesauce
and cider. Ripens in early July.
Royal Gala is a strong, compact tree and a prolific bearer. The solid orange-red medium-size
fruits have lots of snap, juice and aroma. It is an excellent pollinator for Red Delicious. Pollinate
with Jon-A-Red. Ripens in early September.
Training and Pruning Young Apple Trees
Begin training a young apple tree the day you plant it, so it develops a central leader, strong
branches, and good form for heavy fruit production. Proper training while the tree is young,
along with regular pruning later, produces a strong, spreading, open-centered crown that lets
enough light into the tree.
Begin by removing all side branches below three feet along the trunk. Remove damaged
branches or branches that form a very narrow crotch angle. Choose a central branch for the
leader, and 3 or 4 laterals for the scaffold branches, making sure these side branches grow out
from the leader at wide angles and at different heights. A 900 angle is best. A narrow angle
produces a branch that develops a tight, weak crotch that breaks easily in a storm or under the
wright of fruit. Avoid selecting a branch directly over another because it will shade the lower
branch. Prune unwanted branches back to the trunk being careful not to leave stubs as they heal
slowly and invite disease.
The following spring, select 2 or 3 additional lateral branches above those already chosen and
prune back the tips of the central leader and laterals lightly to encourage side branching. For the
next few years, until the tree bears fruit, prune sparingly because heavy pruning delays fruit
production. If a double leader develops at the top of the tree, remove one of them.
Annual pruning is best done in late February or early March before growth begins. Prune out any
water sprouts, suckers, and dead branches as they occur. Water sprouts are fast-growing shoots
which grow straight upward from the trunk or scaffold limbs.
Suckers are swift-growing shoots which appear around the tree's base. Water sprouts spoil the
look of a tree and are unproductive. Suckers rob the tree of nutrients and should always be
removed promptly. Remove any crossing branches as they can rub against each other and cause a
wound which can admit disease. Remove any branches with weak, narrow crotches, and
branches that grow toward the center of the tree. Finally, remove any drooping branches as these
have few flowers or fruit. Remember to clean up all debris from around the base of the tree for
good sanitation.
Apple trees usually begin to bear in their 3rd to 5th year. After the tree has begun to bear, you
will begin to prune again, but for a different purpose: to keep the tree producing steadily.
Apple trees produce fruit on spurs--short stubby offshoots of the lateral branches, and these bear
for many years. When the spurs begin bearing, they thicken, and crease-like rings encircle them,
marking the yearly growth. After a number of years, a spur may stop bearing, but they can be
rejuvenated by removing half of it, cutting through it at one of its thickened rings. A new shoot
will form at the cut and become a new spur. The new spur will produce flower buds that will
yield fruit the following year.
Pruning Established Apple Trees
Apple trees should be pruned in late February or early March before growth begins. Pruning will
renew tree growth and encourage production of high quality fruit.
First, remove any water sprouts growing on the trunk and main branches. Water sprouts are the
long straight shoots rising upward. You might occasionally leave a water sprout to fill an open
area if needed. Next, cut off all suckers. These are long straight shoots growing from the ground.
Remove them at or below ground level. Now, remove any broken and diseased branches as well
as weak or crossing branches. This will complete your preliminary pruning.
It is now important to open up the tree to admit more light and air to the center of the tree. To do
this first remove any branches growing toward the center of the tree. They generally originate on
main branches. You can easily see them when you stand next to the trunk and look upward. Then
remove some of the branches around the tree to provide more open space between the branches.
The outer branches can also be cut back to lateral branches if the overall size of the tree is to be
reduced. Make clean cuts just beyond the raised collar area where branches joins the main trunk.
Since apples produce fruit on short fruiting spurs which bear year after year be careful not to
remove these on the branches which remain. They can be recognized as short thick stubby spurs
that become branched with age.
When to Pick Apples
It isn't always easy to determine when to harvest apples. If you know what to look for you can
harvest apples at their peak. Apples picked at the right time keep longer in storage.
Pick apples before they fully mature. You can gauge apple maturity several ways. These signs
include: changes in fruit skin color, fruit crispness, and loss of a starchy taste.
For reliable signs look at the change in the apple's background color. When most apples mature,
this background color changes from a leaf green to a lighter shade of green and eventually to a
yellowish color. You can pick most apple cultivars when the first signs of yellowing appear.
You can also tell if your apples are ready by how easily the detach from the tree. Mature apples
separate easily from the spur or twig. Grasp the fruit and lift up with a slight twisting motion.
Avoid pulling down on apples when you pick them as this removes the fruit spur along with the
fruit. Spurs are very short branches that bear fruit every year. If you remove too many over time
you'll reduce apple production. The appropriate harvest dates for some common, recommended
varieties are: Redfree - early August; Prima - mid-August; Priscilla and Jonafree - early
September and Golden Delicious - mid-September.
Pruning Overgrown Apple Trees
Apple trees are difficult to maintain when they become tall and overgrown. They also become so
dense with leaves and branches that fruit quality decreases and insect and disease problems can
increase. The goal of pruning then should be to reduce the overall size of the tree and open up the
tree to allow more light and air to penetrate.
Begin by removing all suckers at the base of the tree. Next remove all but six to ten of the better
branches for scaffold branches. Select branches that are well spaced and have wide crotch angles.
Branches with narrow crotch angles are more subject to breakage. Now each main scaffold
branch should be thinned. Remove crowded branches and allow more space between smaller
branches. It would not be unusual to remove half of the smaller branches. Reduce the length of
the longest branches by cutting them back to a side branch. When the job is completed you
should be able to easily throw a ball through the tree. Since apples produce fruit on short fruiting
spurs which bear year after year be careful not to remove these on the branches which remain.
They can be recognized as short thick stubby spurs that become branched with age. On older
trees these spurs may need to be thinned also.
Severe pruning, as described, will stimulate the tree to produce many young vigorous shoots
from the trunks called water sprouts. These should be removed regularly. Some gardeners prefer
to spread the rejuvenation process over a two to three years period. This is less shocking to the
tree and will reduce the number of water sprouts which develop and have to be removed. Pruning
in mid-summer, after the spring flush of growth is completed, as opposed to late winter or early
spring, will also help reduce the proliferation of water sprouts encouraged by severe pruning.
When making cuts, prune branches flush with the branch bark collar. This is the natural swelling
that occurs where one branch joins another. Removing the collar makes larger wounds and
inhibits the tree's ability to heal. Look at the area where the two branches join. Find the collar
and prune flush up to this collar. Do not cut into the collar. Do not paint pruning wounds with
tree wound dressing paint. Pruning wounds heal better when left open. When you finish pruning,
remove the branches from beneath the tree. Piles of branches attract rabbits and mice.
When to Pick Pears
Determining when pears are ready to harvest is tricky. If you wait too long, many fruit will
become overripe and fall to the ground. This results in soft bruised pears that do not keep well.
Don't wait for pears to turn yellow or soft before you pick them. Soft or yellow pears are too
ripe. Instead, pick them before they mature and let them ripen off the tree in a cool place. Don't
expect pears to be palatable right off the tree. Look for these signs to help you decide when your
pears are ready to harvest. One, the dark leaf-green skin color turns lighter green or yellowish
green. Two, the small dots on the fruit change from white to brown. Three, the skin takes on a
waxy feel and the pebbly surface becomes smooth. Four, the fruit stem separates easily from
spur or twig with an upward twist of the pear. Five, the seeds have turned brown.
Handle pears carefully while harvesting and put them into storage. Pears bruise easily and
bruised fruit does not store well. Store pears in a cool humid location such as the refrigerator.
Remember, the longer the time between picking and storing, the shorter the storage life.
Pruning Cherry, Plum and Peach Trees
Initial pruning of cherry, plum, and peach trees is to establish a strong well-spaced permanent
branch structure. The open center method of training is most common. The method consists of a
2 1/2 to 3 1/2 foot trunk with 3 or 4 scaffold branches arising from it. Select branches with a
wide angle of 80-90 degrees. They are stronger than ones with a narrow crotch angle.
Plums, cherries, peaches and other stone fruits need yearly pruning. If you prune regularly, you
improve the chances for a good crop every year. Regular pruning also reduces pest problems,
keeps trees attractive and improves tree longevity.
When you plant any fruit tree and each year thereafter, prune out any dead or broken branches.
Remove any conflicting branches, that is, branches that rub or cross against each other. This can
cause a wound in time, and diseases can enter easily through these wounds.
The best time to prune stone fruit trees is in late winter through early spring. Each year remove
any dead or broken branches, water sprouts, suckers and any new conflicting branches that have
developed. Water sprouts are long straight shoots that grow vertically from the trunk and main
branches. They grow rapidly, conflict with other branches, and are unproductive. Suckers are
also fast-growing straight shoots, but they grow out from the base of the trunk. Suckers grow
from the root stock and should be removed promptly. Make sure the center of the tree is kept
open to admit light and air.
Whenever you prune, make the cut flush with the branch collar and avoid leaving stubs as they
do not heal well and invite disease. Pruning paint is not necessary; in fact the wounds heal better
when left untreated.
Cherry trees can grow to be very large, and can also be trained using the central leader method.
Head back frequently to encourage them to grow horizontally instead of vertically. For
information on the central leader method of pruning listen to Hotline message #501 "Training
and Pruning Young Apple Trees".
With plum trees, it is a hands-off approach to pruning. Once you have established the basic shape
of the tree, your only job for the next 3-4 years is to remove water sprouts, suckers, and dead
branches. Leave the rest of the tree unpruned to allow it to produce fruiting wood. Once the tree
begins to bear, you will need to remove some of the secondary branches every year, so that the
tree doesn't bear so heavily that it breaks the scaffold limbs.
Peaches and nectarines produce fruit on the shoots of new growth. Once the shoots bear, they
will not bear again. It is essential to remove them to allow for the development of new fruitbearing shoots. Peach trees are sometimes thinned to remove part of their crop as they tend to
bear more fruit than thy can properly develop. To get better fruit, thin so you have only one
peach every 6-10 inches. Do not thin, however, until after the natural "June drop".
Grape Varieties
Nurseries offer a number of grape varieties providing a choice of fruit color, flavor, ripening
times and culinary uses. The varieties in this message are some of the more productive, most
popular varieties for Missouri. Listed are table grapes with seeds, table grapes without seeds and
French hybrid grapes for wine. Most seedless varieties listed will have their primary fruit buds
killed at temperatures below O degrees Fahrenheit and will experience vine damage at
temperatures below -15 degrees.
U>Table grapes with seeds
Buffalo is an early, blue-black grape with excellent quality and hardiness.
Concord is a late mid-season bearer. It produces large blue grapes which are excellent for the
table, juice, jelly and wine.
Niagara produces golden colored fruit in mid-season. It is hardy and is excellent for table use,
juice and wine making.
Stueben is a late reddish, blue-black grape with medium to large berries borne in large bunches.
It is very sweet and has a spicy flavor.
U>French hybrid grapes for wine
De Chaunac is a mid-season hybrid with small, blue-black fruit. It is perhaps the best of the red
hybrids for home wine making.
Vidal Blanc produces small, golden fruit with a characteristic "freckle spot". It ripens late but is
productive and vigorous.
Villard Blanc is a mid to late season hybrid with large golden berries in large bunches. It can also
be used as a table grape.
U>Seedless grapes
Canadice produces small, pinkish berries in tight clusters. It has excellent quality. Vines have
medium vigor. It is one of the hardiest seedless varieties.
Glenora has small, black berries of firm, very sweet flesh. Vines have medium vigor.
Reliance is a new seedless variety from Arkansas. It is perhaps the most hardy of the seedless
varieties. It produces medium sized, pink fruit. It is disease resistant.
Pruning and Training Grape Vines
Pruning is probably the most important part of grape culture. Because of the grape's tendency to
grow so vigorously a lot of wood must be cut away each year. Grape vines that are overgrown
become so dense that the sun cannot reach into the area where fruit should form.
The best and easiest way to grow grapes for fruit is on a two-wire fence in a method called the
Kniffin system. Vines should be planted about 8 feet apart, with a post midway between each
plant and one on each end. String two strands of smooth 10-gauge wire on the posts, the first 2
feet above the ground and the second about 3 feet higher. After planting, cut back the new vine
so it is only 5 or 6 inches long and contains two or three fat buds. This encourages additional root
growth. Allow the vines to grow freely the first year.
The second year, very early in the spring, before the buds swell, cut the vine back to a single
stem with no branches. This will strengthen the trunk and encourage more vigor. During the year
allow four side branches to grow (two in each direction) and train them along the wires. Pinch
off all other buds that are inclined to grow in other directions. By the end of the second year, the
space along both wires should be filled. These vines should then bloom and produce a few
grapes the third year. During the third year four more canes should be allowed to grow from buds
along the main stem. These should parallel the vines producing grapes and will replace the first
four canes. In late winter following the third year, cut out the old canes that produced the past
year and tie the new ones to the wires to replace them. Trim off all excess growth except the four
new canes. Treated in this way, each mature vine should produce from 12 to 15 pounds of grapes
or 30 to 60 bunches per year. If more bunches than this are produced, remove them before the
grapes develop, to avoid overbearing and thus weakening the plant. Treated in this fashion, vines
should continue to produce well for many years.
Raspberry Varieties
Raspberries are good choices for St. Louis gardens. They are generally productive and do not
require a large growing area. The savings from growing your own can also be substantial as store
bought raspberries are expensive.
There are three main types of raspberries: the red raspberry, black raspberries (not to be confused
with blackberries) and purple raspberries. Red raspberries are the most familiar. Yellow
raspberries are a mutation of red raspberries and differ from them only in their color. Black
raspberries, however, have a favor quite different from red raspberries. Purple raspberries are a
cross between red and black raspberries and have a flavor closer to black raspberries.
Some varieties of black raspberries to grow in St. Louis are Bristol, Allen, Cumberland and
Jewell. Two varieties of purple raspberries are Brandywine and Royalty. Black and purple
raspberries ripen in mid-summer.
Red raspberries are a bit more confusing. In addition to varieties of red raspberries that produce
red or yellow colored fruit there are also varieties that produce one crop of fruit in mid-summer,
and other varieties that produce both a summer and fall crop. These varieties are called
everbearers.
Latham and Taylor are two good summer producing red raspberries. Heritage and September are
everbearing varieties. Two good varieties of yellow fruited raspberries are Amber and Fall Gold.
Amber is a summer bearer and Fall Gold is an everbearer.
One final note. Although everbearing raspberries can produce two crops a year, some growers
recommend cutting the everbearers to the ground in the fall. This keeps the plants from
producing a summer crop but produces a larger fall crop.
Pruning and Training Raspberries
Pruning and training raspberries not only produce healthier plants, it also increases production
and makes picking easier.
Summer bearing raspberries only produce one crop on two year old canes. Cut these canes to
ground level immediately after the last harvest and thin the new shoots coming up from the
ground. Leave 3 to 4 of the sturdiest canes per foot of new or 6 to 8 canes per hill. Don't cut back
the cane tips. The next time you'll prune them is in the spring after danger of frost has passed and
before growth begins. Remove any old canes you missed last summer and reduce the length of
the canes by one fourth. Do not over prune. Severe pruning reduces the harvests.
Fall bearing raspberries produce a fall crop on one year old canes and a summer crop on two year
old canes. The easiest way to prune is to cut the plants back to ground level in late fall after
harvest or early spring. This eliminates the summer crop but you'll get an even earlier and larger
fall harvest. Pruning this way reduces disease and insect problems, winter injury, and rodent
problems. Always use sharp tools or a heavy duty mower with sharp blades to reduce crown
damage to the plant. If you want a summer and fall crop use the pruning recommendations for
summer bearing raspberries.
Black raspberries are pruned differently in the summer. Pinch off the growing tip of the new
canes when they are 24 inches tall. Then immediately after harvest, cut to ground level and
remove any canes that bore fruit. The next spring before growth begins cut back all side branches
to 12 inches, then next spring thin plants to 4 or 5 of the sturdiest canes per plant. Prune purple
raspberries the same way. In the summer pinch out growing tips when the plants are 30 inches
tall. Later after harvest cut canes that bore fruit to ground level and remove. Next spring before
growth starts thin plants to 4 or 5 of the sturdiest canes. Cut side branches back to 18 inches.
Raspberries can be planted in a narrow hedge or hill system. If you use the hill system, set a
permanent stake in the center of each hill then loosely tie canes to the post with twine. For the
narrow hedge row system, keep plants within an 18 inch wide row. Prune out any suckers which
appear outside this row. A permanent trellis, to hold up the canes, can also be used for easier
picking and to reduce pest problems. To install, set stakes on one side of the row at 15 to 20 foot
intervals and securely fasten a wire between the stakes. The canes can then be tied to the wire.
An alternative method is to put posts and wire on each side of the hedge row. For the latter
method, tying is not required.
Strawberry Varieties
The strawberry is undoubtedly the fruit with which the home gardener is likely to have the
greatest success and most satisfaction. Strawberries are well adapted to our climate and require
only a minimum of care and culture.
Spring-fruited varieties are recommended over everbearing varieties. Everbearing strawberries
generally suffer each year from the heat and drought in Missouri unless they are grown under
special conditions and given intensive care.
The following spring-fruited varieties perform well in Missouri for the home gardener. Earliglow
is an early season variety which shows resistance to leaf and root diseases. This variety produces
dark red berries that are medium to large, firm and sweet, and good for freezing.
Surecrop and Redchief ripen in mid-season. Redchief is disease resistant, produces runners freely
and the fruit is excellent for freezing. Berries are medium to large, dark colored, sweet and of
exceptional quality. Surecrop is one of the most productive, vigorous and disease resistant
varieties available. Berries are large, light colored, tart and fair quality.
Allstar ripens in late mid-season. This variety is resistant to root diseases. Berries are large,
medium red, firm, and excellent for freezing.
While everbearing varieties are a poor substitute for spring-fruited varieties, two varieties are
suggested for trial. Ogallala has been one of the better everbearing varieties under most Missouri
conditions. Berries are medium sized, dark colored, and sweet with an average quality flavor.
Ozark Beauty has been extremely variable in its performance in Missouri. Berries are medium
sized, light colored, sweet, and average quality.
Mulching Strawberries for Winter Protection
Winter freezing and thawing can raise strawberry plants out of the ground damaging their roots.
To prevent this, strawberries should me mulched for the winter.
Apply mulch when the temperature has dropped to 20 degrees or slightly lower for several days.
Do not apply too early. This will usually not be until late November. Applied too early the mulch
can retard winter hardening of the plants. Use three to four inches of wheat straw or hay or other
non-packing materials applied over the row. Do not use sawdust or leaves as these can pack and
smoother the plants. Watering the mulch after applying will help to settle the mulch and reduce
loss from wind.
In the spring when new leaves begin to develop, usually mid-April, the mulch should be pulled
back into the paths between the rows. Use the mulch to recover the plants again if late frosts
threaten to damage the blooms.
Culture of Bananas Indoors and Outdoors
The banana is a tender, tree-like plant which grows from an underground stem. Although the
trunk may look like the stem of a tree it is not. Actually it is composed of the bases of the leaves.
If you cut through it you would discover many many rings. New leaves push up through the
center of the trunk. They are followed by the flower and fruit. After a trunk has fruited it dies and
new shoots form at the base of the plant to start the process over again. Because it takes several
month for a banana to flower you most likely will not have fruit on a young plant you planted
this year. Some gardeners grow dwarf banana plants in tubs so they can be taken inside for the
winter. Others dig the partly grown trunks and store them over winter in a basement to replant
them the following spring.
For growing a banana in a pot use a large pot with a rich, well drainage soil with plenty of
organic material. Move the plant outdoors into full sun after May 1 and water thoroughly. When
growth resumes keep moist and fertilize weekly with an all-purpose fertilizer such as 20-20-20
following label directions. Bring the plant in before the first frost. Give it as much light as
possible for the winter but decrease water and fertilizer as growth slows. It will take a couple of
years for the plant to become large enough to produce fruit.
When planting out of doors, dig a large hole at least 2 feet by 2 feet by 2 feet and full the hole
with a rich organic soil. Plant the young plant when the weather is warm around May 1. If the
plant is large it may need staking for a couple of weeks. Increase water and fertilizing as growth
resumes. In the heat of the summer water frequently. In dry weather 2 to 3 soakings a week may
be required. Fertilize each plant with 1 teaspoon of dry granular 12-12-12 fertilizer per 6 inches
of height each week. Do not let the fertilizer touch the plant.
Your plant may grow to 12 or 15 feet during the summer but before frost cut back the leaves and
dig the rhizome leaving some soil attached. The root ball need be only about 1-2 feet in diameter.
Wrap the root ball in a trash bag and store upright in a cool, dark, frost-free location such as a
basement. Leave the bag open as the soil must dry out. Do not water the stored plant over winter.
Growth will continue for a week or so but this can be ignored.
Young shoots at the base of the plant at the time of digging should be left attached if they are less
than 3 feet tall. Larger shoots can be removed and stored separately or potted. Success is more
certain with young shoots which are potted and grown on than those which are stored dormant.
Fruiting of bananas in Missouri is variable. In the tropics a young plant will fruit in about 10
months but in St. Louis it can take two to three years before a plant gets large enough to flower
and fruit.
Paw Paws
Paw paw, a Missouri native, is grown both as a small landscape tree and for its fruit. As an
ornamental tree is grows 15 to 20 feet tall and about as broad. Because the plant suckers freely, it
will develop into a grove or thicket when left undisturbed. It has oblong leaves six to twelve
inches long that droop gracefully. Paw paws grow well in full sun but also tolerate shade.
Transplanting is difficult so only small plants less than 6 feet tall should be moved. Take care to
not damage the roots or let them dry out.
As a native fruit paw paw is unique. It is a member of the custard apple family which is
predominantly tropical and subtropical. The family includes custard apple, cherimoya and
soursop. It should not be confused with papaya which is commonly called papaw. The fruit of
paw paw looks like a stout banana from 2-5 inches long. The color of the skin will vary from
green to yellowish to brown when the fruit is ripe depending upon the variety. Yielding to slight
pressure and fragrance is a better indicator of ripeness then color in many cases. The fruit has the
consistency of egg custard with a flavor prized by many. Some people are allergic to paw paws.
Paw paws are generally self incompatible so two or more varieties or clones should be planted to
assure good fruit set. Fruit generally ripens in September or October. They are highly perishable
and bruise easily which limits their commercial availability.
Interest in growing paw paws is growing so more and better varieties should be available as time
goes on. Varieties recommended by the University of Illinois are: 'Davis', 'Taylor', 'Taytwo',
'Sunflower', and 'Overleese'.
Harvesting and Storing Nuts
Walnuts, butternuts, hickories, pecans and filberts should be harvested as soon as the nuts are
mature. Hickories, pecans and filberts will fall free of their hulls when mature and pressing on
the hull of a black walnut will leave an indentation if the nut is mature. Delaying harvest will risk
loss due to animals and discoloration of the shells and meats.
Once collected, the nuts need to be cleaned and cured. Hickories, pecans and filberts separate
easily from their paper-like husks and the hull on butternuts does not need to be removed before
drying as the hull on dry butternuts can be crumble off the dried nuts before cracking. Walnuts,
especially black walnuts, are another story. They require considerably more work to remove the
thick hull which encloses the nut.
Several methods can be used to remove the thick green husks from walnuts, but whatever
method you use be sure and use rubber gloves as the husks contain a brown dye which will stain
skin and clothing. Small quantities of walnuts can be placed on a hard surface such as a concrete
floor and rolled over with a heavy object or trampled under foot. A rubber mallet or small
hammer can also be used. Black walnut nuts are very tough and some gardeners place them in
the driveway and drive over them with an automobile to break off the hull. After the hulls are
cracked, they need to be removed from the nut completely. Failing to do so will result in slower
drying and possible discoloring of the kernels.
Cleaning black walnuts consists of washing the nuts in a bucket of water. Only those nuts which
sink should be saved as the nuts which float are unfilled. Roughly stirring the nuts will help to
remove any pieces of hull that still cling to the nuts. When the nuts are clean, remove them from
the pail and dry them in thin layers on the floor or on wire trays in a shaded, well-ventilated area
for several weeks. Hickories, butternuts, pecans and filberts should also be dried in this way.
During this curing process the nuts will loose the bitter or astringent flavor uncured nuts have.
When the nuts are dry they should be stored in a cool, slightly humid location, such as a garage
or earth-floor cellar until ready to be cracked. Nuts can also be cracked and the kernels stored in
the freezer. Properly cured, nuts or frozen kernels can be stored for a year or longer before they
turn rancid.
Starting Pecan Trees
Because of cold winters, late spring frosts, hot, dry summers, and a shorter growing season,
Southern pecans are difficult to grow in Missouri except in the southeastern part of the state. To
succeed with pecans, select cultivars that are grafted onto hardy, northern grown rootstock. The
nut size of Northern cultivars is about half the size of the southern pecan, but the flavor is
nonetheless outstanding. Recommended varieties for the St. Louis area include Colby, Major,
Hardy Giant, Posey, Peruque and Giles. For the extreme southeast part of the state, Stuart and
Desirable may be planted. Most pecans are not self pollinating, though Major is partially selffertile and can produce some nuts in the absence of another tree.
Plant at least two different varieties which flower at the same time to assure pollination. Colby is
best pollinated by Major, Peruque or Hardy Giant. Major and Hardy Giant are best pollinated by
Colby. Posey is best pollinated by Giles, Major, Peruque or Hardy Giant. Peruque is best
pollinated by Colby, Giles or Major, and Giles is best pollinated by Major and Peruque.
Pecans usually require a minimum of five or six years before nuts are produced. They grow best
in deep, rich, bottomland soils with high organic content, but adapt well to a wide range of soil
types, including clay. Select a location that receives full sun and has good soil drainage. Avoid
low areas which are prone to late spring frosts, as well as those that are excessively windy. The
presence of a nearby windbreak is a plus for young trees.
A healthy pecan can eventually become massive. Trees should be spaced at least 20 to 40 feet
apart at planting to accommodate their eventual mature spread.
Pecans are generally free of pest problems in most years, but several factors may effect nut
quality and bearing. Trees growing on alkaline soils may develop nutrient deficiencies, and low
soil fertility and summer drought may also effect nut development. Fungal leaf spots, scab, and
powdery mildews can cause premature defoliation. There are a host of leaf-eating caterpillars,
and casebearers, weevils and shuckworms that feed on the nuts. For home gardeners, the first
line of defense against these pests is good sanitation. Rake up and destroy all infested plant
debris each fall to prevent overwintering pests. During the growing season, remove and destroy
any nuts that fall prematurely as these usually have worms in them.
All information © Missouri Botanical Garden, 2001-2011