Crook County Stock Dogs Member Manual

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Super Duper Herders 2 Be
Leaders: Kim Griffin, Kathy Worlein, Tom Blasdell
Objectives:
 Choosing, Raising and Caring for your dog.
 Beginning training.
 Stages of training
 Avoiding bad habits
 Trial dog/ranch dog
 Voice commands
 Different styles/Individual dogs
 Goal
Supplies
 Chain-14” with 2 swivel snaps at both ends
 Collar-Nylon or leather with buckles
 Sorting stick with flag 5’ long
 Fishing pole (1 piece) with rag at the end of line
Trainings
 Group trainings—See three months at a glance
Tips
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Trainings should be short intervals rather than one long session.
Quit while the dog still wants to work.
When a dogs tongue curls up and can hold water, take a break.
Pasty saliva is a warning of overheating or heat stroke, stop and take a break.
The dog should never go between you and the stock.
Dogs need to be penned up, don’t let them work stock on their own.
Never call the dog to you, tell the dog to “there”, make the dog sit, then touch the dog.
Help your friend when it needs help-after all you should be a team.
All commands in a CALM voice ( so when the dog mistakes, you can use a deeper voice & it
will mean something to the dog)
Give time for response to get results.
Don’t keep repeating the same command over & over while the dog is doing it. If you said
“Go By” and the dog is going, then don’t talk and let the dog do the command asked.
CHARACTERISTICS OF A GOOD
RANCH DOG
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Saves many steps for his master and should
be capable to move all stock with the least
amount of stress.
Fetch stock as well as drive stock.
Thinks for himself and also be part of a team.
Take commands from other people.
Knows when to put pressure on stock as well
as knowing when to give stock ground.
Maintains good control on his stock at all times
and be in command of his stock.
Knows how to pace himself.
Will be obedient and know his place.
Won’t work unless commanded.
Stays out of the way when not needed.
Works great distances as well as at hand.
Works out of sight.
Is open-minded.
Is able to work all day if needed.
Is in top physical condition.
Knows when to cool himself off.
Respects other animals and people.
Has respect for its master.
Is an excellent listener.
Never quits his master.
POOR CHARACTERISTICS
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Will not listen.
Wants to do everything himself.
Works wen not wanted to.
Won’t let stock alone.
Has no bite all the time.
Is unable to move stock.
Quits when things get tight.
Will work to wide and wont come in on his
stock?
Requires more help from master or other dog.
Won’t have patience.
Will cheat you.
Will cheap-shot the stock.
Will not be able to pace himself.
Will not go between stock and fences.
Works stock from the wrong side of the fence.
TRIAL DOG
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Must first be a good ranch dog.
Has a little extra style and power.
Moves stock without gripping.
Is well paced.
Is an excellent listener.
Is very bold.
Is patient.
Is able to take lots of pressure.
Is in top physical condition.
Is steady.
Is able to think on its own.
Will know when to put pressure on and when
to give ground.
Is open-minded.
Has good balance.
Is able to read stock and judge and able to
anticipate the next move.
What to look for when choosing your pup:
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Healthy bright-eyed pup.
Straight back legs when walking away from you.
No sign of cow hocks, hocks in/toes out.
Smooth movement of hips.
No over or underbite of jaw.
Leg bones should be sound and medium length.
Paws should show no sign of soreness and no dewclaws on hind legs.
Clean ears.
Eyes should be clear, no sign of infection.
Investigate living conditions, are they clean? Has the pup been well kept?
What are the feeding schedules for the pups?
What food are they fed?
It is important that the pups have been handled.
When was the pup wormed? (2x by 8 weeks)
Was the bitch vaccinated?
Were the pups vaccinated? What vaccinations have been given?
Is the pup from proven parents and guaranteed to work?
So you have your pup home:
Teach your pup boundaries, play with him and give him lots of attention. Keep a good eye on him, if
you cant keep an eye on your pup, put him up. This could give your pup a chance to get hurt, lose
confidence or learn bad habits.
Be patient with your pup. Don’t scream at him or scare him. Be consistent and kind. Talk to the
pup, now is the time the pup is learning variations in voice tone and the will learn when you’re
pleased or not with them.
Everyone involved with the pup needs to use the same commands/set boundaries. Stay consistent
and not confusing.
Be sure that the pup has a clean dry place to sleep.
Begin training:
Teach the pup to come to you using “here” or “come in”. If there is no response, the pup may not
be ready, wait a week or so and try again. When training make sure there are no distractions, that
there is a calm atmosphere and in a small area. Attach a light lead to puppy and tug lightly, make
eye contact and talk firmly. Do this only a few times a day, but be consistent and to it every day.
Teach the pup “down”. Press lightly on pup’s back/shoulders and say “down”. Avoid saying it over
and over. Teach the pup “down” on first down, not third. Use a calm atmosphere when training.
Chaining your pup:
Use a light chain with 2 swivels. Don’t fasten to a low fence, uneven ground, tree strangulation can
occur.
Don’t chain pup up for long periods of time and provide fresh water. Don’t hang around, you don’t
want the pup associating you with being chained. Don’t chain in hot or cold weather unless there is
appropriate shelter.
Never use nylon or leather leads, the pup will chew through them.
Chaining helps the pup learn to lead, lets them learn there is and end to the lead. If the pup is used
to being chained for short periods, the young dog is unlikely to fight against a lead in the future.
BALANCE
FLANKING
COMMANDS
STOP
COMMAND
QUIT WORK
LIFTING
FETCHING
CIRCLING
DRIVING
GRIPPING
COME IN
THERE AND
DOWN
STAY
GET BEHIND
GET BACK, GET
OUT
LOOK BACK
GET AROUND
GET AHEAD
Some dogs have natural balance and others develop it through their training.
Balance is the distance the stock dogs needs to stay from the stock to maintain
contact and control without upsetting or scattering them.
“Go By”(clockwise) and “Away To Me” (counterclockwise)
“Down” or “Stand”
“That’ll Do” or “OK”(very important command use a calm low voice.
Could speed dog up)
The dog has completed outrun to the far side of the stock and the stock begins to
move forward.
As the dog brings up the stock to the handler, he will need to move from side to
side in order to keep stock moving in “Straight line”.
Dog runs too wide to too close he will lose balance.
Relatively easy to keep dogs driving stock toward handler in straight line, more
difficult to teach dog to drive away from handler.
“Take Hold” “Get-a-holt”
The dog is to come to the handler.
There- stop Down-To lie on all four legs on the ground. (Say there 1st
then down)
To remain in the position the handler commanded until another command is
given.
Walk at either side of the handler in an orderly manner (usually left).
Create a wide distance between dog and livestock being worked.
Send the dog back around the field to look for additional stock.
Send dog out to gather stock (no specific direction given). It is critical that the
dog circle wide away from stock, a minimum of 50 feet away at any point, until
the dog is well behind and prepared to move up.
BRING’ EM UP
Dog gathers and fetches the livestock to the handler without directional
commands.
WALK UP (FOR
Move closer to the stock in a straight line. This command should be trained only
SORTING)
after the dog totally understands a wide outrun and get back command. (Often,
dogs are too tight due to their eagerness to work, and the command is mostly
used in a penning situation) NEEDS TO BE FOLLOWED BY ANOTHER
COMMAND.
STEADY, EASY, Commands the dog to settle down.
OR TAKE IT
EASY
UP OR HUP
To jump over normal stock fences. Does not matter how the dog accomplishes it
(climbing or pushing with feet).
GET IN
Load up, helpful when you have a busy day or the handler needs the dog to stay
in a place out of the way for a long period of time without being tied. The
command instruct the dog to stay in the pickup until requested to move.
Balance is very important when penning stock. Must develop good balance instinct in dog through
training stages. This is very important.
To develop a versatile dog he needs to be introduced to many different situations. Training with all
kinds of stock is good. The handler always needs to anticipate his own direction/movement, this will
teach the dot to anticipate what is expected of him.
Avoiding Bad Habits
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Don’t teach a young stock dog to heal.
Don’t let your dog work on his own.
Don’t let your dog lie outside stock pens/horse pens and stare for hours on end. This
develops “sticky” dog and other problems.
Don’t let your pup get into a situation where he is going to want to run back to the barn over
any little thing.
Be aware of your pup and if he can handle a gruff voice or if you have a pup that is more
sensitive.
If the pup works on his own he can develop the bad habit of splitting stock and fetching them
in two lots. Teach a wider outrun if this occurs. Keep him out when he starts his outrun.
Don’t slow your pup too much when first training to bring stock back to you. Try to let the
“pace” develop naturally with guidance and time.
If your pup grips, it is best to teach it to grip on command then you have control of when he
grips. Use “take hold” for the command to grip.
When training a young dog on sheep, it is important that he doesn’t leave the flock of sheep
you are working and go to another flock unless you give him the command to do so. Finish
the task at hand.
Young pups need to learn to work in an organized manner. Don’t let him run from one
situation to another. He needs to be taught an efficient order. You want to develop a
thinking dog that knows after he has brought in the stock that he may have to return to the
field to look for strays.
Don’t start intermediate training on your young dog if he isn’t physically strong enough/fast
enough to get around the stock. He needs to be faster than the stock to start training in an
efficient manner. Always remember that all dogs should be dealt with as individuals.
One that starts earlier/stronger than another may not mean it will be the better working/adult
dog. If a pup is pressured to perform when it is not ready you can end up damaging the dog.
Give the dog a little time to mature.
Your
Dog
12
Your
9
Stock
6
You
The Handler
3
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