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BRIEF
INTRODUCTION
Stewarts Gully is located 8 kilometres north-east of central Christchurch.
It borders on the Waimakariri River 3.5 kilometres from the mouth of the river.
Origina ll y, Ste w arts Gu ll y w as a small, quiet holiday resort for keen fishermen from t h e Christchu r ch area . They built ramshackled batches there in a rather hap h az a rd manner w ith no legal section boundaries. Recently some of the batch ow n ers have chose n to n~ke it t h eir pe manent place of residence. At the same time its p o p ul arity w i t h day tr i ppe r s h a s increased with the introduction of s u c h cOl1lmercial ventures a s a dairy mini golf course and a bus service.
"R iv rlea Estates Incorporated" , th e present owners, a group of residents who clubbed together and bo u ght t h e l and a r e concerned about the dilapidated appearance of the area.
AIM OF THE DESIGN
- To improve the spatial arrangement of communal open spa c es.
- To improve the general appearance of the Gully.
- To consider circulation patterns and traffic flows and improve them where possible .
- To suggest the most practical, visually acceptable sites for such community facilities as are needed.
- To produce a final design which will cost the residents as little as possible and where possible can be implemented by people with a bit of 'kiwi ingenuity' .
DESIGN CONCEPT
The houses in the Gully are grouped around the large areas of open space from which they are physically separated by a gravel road. The settlement is enclosed on two sides by Chaneys pine plantation with a 3 metre high stop bank separating it from the river.
The settlement has a definite sense of place as it is physically separated from other housing areas and major roads. All the batches are of a similar scale and appearance.

However, the function of the Gully is changing. It is no longer a place where people go for three weeks a year to get away from the city and the bare essentials of life are enough for a good holiday. People are taking up permanent residence, young children can be seen running around on weekdays, pensioners are out walking their dogs and people are beginning to do up their houses. Signs of a less transitory population are emerging.
People are using second hand materials, stained timber, rock, etc., in very much a 'do it yourself and as cheaply as possible ' way of improving their environment.
The place is taking on a rustic, ethnic appearance, however it lacks internal unity and the facilities to cater for permanent residents. A sense of unity could be derived from the careful handling of the open spaces in the gully which are visible and easily accessible to all the residents. To carry the rustic theme over from individual sections to corrmunal areas could create a sense of community unity rather than placing the emphasis on individual sections as happens in conventional subdivisions. Very little money ' is available for improvements yet a continuation of the 'do it yourself ' concept, while saving money would enhance the already visible rustic character of the area and by involving the people who live there and own the place could help strengthen community ties.
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NOTE
I feel that the most important thing is to keep the design, building materials, and plant materials as simple and straightforward as possible. The design must be easily implemented and in such an ar'ea, where both the houses and sections a re very small, it is very easy for thi ngs to become
I qua; nt and fussy
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Guidelines for Planting Trees and Shrubs
Check that all trees and shrubs are sound with vigorous root systems. Use bagged plants where possible. Make sure the rootball is a reasonable size in relation to the height of the plant, i.e., i t should be about the same radius as the head of the tree or shrub. Make sure they are neither root bound nor pot bound.
Before you purchase any plant materials check that all plants are free from insect pests, plant diseases, sun scalds, fresh abrasions of the bark or any other disfigurements. Don't plant faulty or damaged plants; they can be returned to the nursery.
The best time for planting is late August through
September. However, you can plant later than this as long as all plants are regularly well watered through the summer months. It is wise to ring around various nurseries well in advance of planting and make out a list of where your plants can be purchased from. It is often the case that a nursery will not have the number of plants required, but can acquire them for you. It may take them some time to do so.
When you go to pick up the plants use a covered vehicle. Plants may get badly damaged or lose a great deal of water if they are transported in an open trailer.
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If plant materials are purchased and waiting to be planted, they must be protected from the eventuality of a heavy frost. Surround them with straw and pack straw around and over the containers or rootballs.
Any plant materials that are not bagged and have their roots exposed can be heeled in. Dig a slot in the ground, place the tree or shrub into i t and heel i t down.
Before planting anything~ consult the planting plan and make sure you are planting the correct species in the right place and that plant spacing and grouping is the same as on the drawing. A practical way to do this i t to choose an area to be planted on a particular day, locate the correct number of plants roughly on site, then check with the planting plan and position them accurately.
The mass shrub beds around the Community Centre need to be cultivated to a minimum depth of IOOmm below ground level. If no-one has a rotary hoe that will dig this deep, then a tractor with a harrow on the back will do the job. The ground must then be forked over and raked approximately level.
The next step is to dig the planting holes for the trees and shrubs. These need to be twice the diameter and 150mm (six inches) deeper than the root ball. Fork the bottom of the hole up and put a

mixture of 1/3 compost to 2/3rds soil in the bottom of the hole to bring the plant up to ground level, at the same height that i t was planted in the nursery. It must be planted at the correct level.
Use the existing soil to plant in. If anyone has some compost i t would help to dig i t into the beds at the rate of 1/3rd compost to 2/3rds soil.
When removing the plant from the container and positioning it, BE CAREFUL. It must be done with the minimum amount of root disturbance and the time between removing the plant from its container and planting must be kept to a minimum.
When the plant is out of its container, spread the roots carefully by hand and crumble earth between the fine rootlets. Return the top soil in layers treading each layer down, not too hard, and leaving the top lOcm of soil loose.
When the beds are planted, pine bark mulch must be spread evenly over them, around the plants, to a depth of 7Smm. This helps to retain the moisture in the soil and will eventually break down once the plants are established. Try to get either a fine or medium grade of bark as the larger grades tend to escape from the beds and make a mess over the lawn.

For ease of maintenance cut the edges of the beds out on a 45° angle.
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All trees need to be staked with a ground treated hardwood stake, pointed at one end, 50 x 50 square and long enough to support the head of the tree. Stakes should be banged into the ground approximately l50mm down, AFTER the hole is dug, BEFORE the tree is planted.
The distance from the tree to the stake should be such that when the tree is planted and tied to the stake, i t can stand upright and has a small amount of movement. Ties must be made out of either hessian strips or old nylon stockings, NOT wire. One should secure the tree half way down the stake and another secure i t at the head. The tree must not be allowed to rub against the stake. The best way to prevent this is to use strips of an old inner tube and place them over the ties between the stake and the tree. Old nylons wrapped securely around the ties would work just as well. Do not use a~y type of material which could rub
10 against the tree and damage the bark.

After planting, all trees and shrubs must be well watered, i.e.: until the ground is soggy. After this, all plants must be regularly, well watered through the summer .
, months, i. e.: two buckets of water per plant per week. If a strong nor-wester is blowing, i t needs to be done twice a week.
All weeds must be removed by hand so the mulch isn't disturbed and make sure that any plants which fail are replaced by another plant of the same species as soon as possible.
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12.
Building Guidelines for Stewarts Gully Entry Sign
Materials: 2 x 2S0mm x l660mm Ground treated posts.
2 x SOmm x 300mm x 2230mm Pinus Radiata boards treated to CS. l200mm x 40mm dowling rod.
Several shovels of coarse gravel.
One wheelbarrow load of concrete.
Method
Posts: Cut posts to required length (1660mm) and make a saw cut 20mm in depth around the pole, l50mm from the top.
Chisel the wood back to the cut from the 300mm mark, as in the following diagram:
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Round off the top of the pole and mark the position of the cross boards as in the followina dia0ram:
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The slots can be cut by first drilling out the holes and then chiseling the remaining timber out. Take care when you drill the posts that the drill is held at right angles to the post.
The slots need to be l-2mm larger than the sign boards.
Now drill 40mm holes for the dowling rods which are to hold the cross boards in place. Again be careful that the drill is held at right angles to the post and the slot ' in the post.
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Sign Boards: Thef sign boards mus t be cut to length
(2230mml, width ' (300mm) and thickness (50mm). The edges of the boards should be.rounded off.

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