Development and use of an objective rating scale to evaluate the extent of home sewing
by Mary McCoy Wetzsteon
A THESIS Submitted to the Graduate Committee in partial fulfillment of the requirements for the
degree of Master of Science in Home Economics
Montana State University
© Copyright by Mary McCoy Wetzsteon (1944)
Abstract:
An objective rating scale was developed to evaluate the extent of sewing done by homemakers of
Boseman, Montana. With the aid of committees of homemakers and professional home economists,
rating scales were formulated to measure three major aspects of sewing and from them a score was
derived for 47 articles of sewing. These values were then applied to the sewing reports of 276
homemakers. The resultant scores were used as a basis for the study of factors thought to influence the
amount and kind of home seeing.
Lower cost, satisfaction and enjoyment were the chief reasons for home sewing given by the
homemakers. The greatest difficulties reported were in pattern alterations, and the construction, fitting
and styling of garments. These homemakers devoted an average of four hours per week to their sewing
activities.
Eighty-two percent of the homemakers were doing some sewing and had increased the total amount
done during the two war years. Garments most frequently made were house dresses, aprons, and skirts
for girls and women and pajamas for all family members. Many more articles were renovated during
the two-year-war-time period than for the corresponding pre-war period.
The data were secured by questionnaires in which homemakers gave information concerning their
family status and their sewing activities and problems. They were requested to estimate the amount of
sewing done during the past four years, 1940 through 1943 to allow a comparison of the amount of
sewing done in two years of war time with that done during the two pre-war years.
The development of the rating scales which make possible a quantitative evaluation of home sewing is
considered the most valuable contribution of this thesis. This device should prove of value to those
responsible for clothing curricula, to students as a means of judging their progress, to homemakers
desiring an evaluation of their work and to those people interested in making studies relative to home
sewing practices. D m i m m s - Atm d se o r ah o b jec tiv e b iy ih q scale
TO EWLLATE TH! EXTEHT OF HOME SEHI SG
BT
HAST I OCOY tH SO T O B
A THESIS
S o a a itte d t o th e G xsduate C o tsaittee
in
p a r t i a l f u l f i l l m e n t o f th e req u ireiu en t
f o r th e d e g re e o f
M aste r o f s c ie n c e i n Home Economics
Montana S ta te C o lle g e
Approved!
Bozeman, Montana
Hey. 1944
/V ? 7 ?
(J S id C
'^
—2 —
TABLK OF COSTm1S
ABSTHACf .................................................................................................................
I STflDBUCTItiK AMD HISTtiRT . . .
Page
5
.................................................................
MgfHODS............................................................................. ..................................
S c a le s A . H ating s c c ie f o r E e tiia a tln g th e Sumber o f Hours Setru lred to Bake A r t i c l e s o f Home Sewing . ..........................
B. S a tin g s c a le f o r Ju d g in g Degreee o f D if f ic u lt./ i n
P la n n in g coxd C u ttin g A r t i c l e s o f Home S eeing . , . . «
C . HRtlna S c a le f o r J u d g in g D egrees o f D if f ic u lt y i n
C o n s tru c tio n end F i t t i n g A r t i c l e s o f Home e e in g . . ,
B .H atin g S c a le f o r th e v a lu a tio n o f S eein g squlpcient . ,
7
ih
15
lb
17
23
discuss I ok
tar hksults *
A p p lic a tio n o f H atin g S e a le to th e Amount o f S eeing Re­
p o r te d y la n e ia a k e rs. .
.
.
...............................
D ie tr ib u tlo n o f A verage Y early SewiiNg S c o r e s ......................
sotae F a c to rs Which Bsy A ffe c t Hoeietaakere Sewing S cores . . .
H a la tio n o f Sewing S co res to Fam ily Income end
11Usbandt S O ccupation . . .
.
. . . . .
. . .
A m lo y een t o f Homemaker* ................................................................v f r e c t o f t h e Amount and L o c a tio n o f Sewing equip**#* on
th e l a t e n t o f S eeing . . . . . . . .
......................................
R easons f o r S eeing .............................................................................
HofiumakjRr1s r a in in g ..........................................................................
D i f f i c u l t i e s o f sew i% ;......................................................................
C oepurleons o f P re-w a r and W ar-time S e w in g ......................
Vnlu# o f O b je c tiv e H a tin g S c a le f o r E v a lu a tio n o f
th e E x te n t o f sewln............................................................................
42
UJ
53
57
5S
59
StMiAKY OF ........................................................................................................
62
...............................................................................................................................................
65
e m u ATO ....................................................................................
bfa
LITKflAT m
APPKKDIX
A. Q u e s t i o n n a i r e ..................................................................................... ......................... f*
B. L e t t e r to HcaeLWdcers
........................................ ................................................... 7>
C . I n s t r u c t i o n s f o r C om pleting Q u e s t i o n n a i r e ............................................. fb
D. A S i s t n t 3 a n d Oroups S u p oly in g Com pleted Q uestlom vsir e s .............. f t
E . Jutiges A s s is tin g i n Computing S c o r e s .......................................................... ?8
- 3
-
LIST OF TABLES
T a la e
I
II
III
IT
T itle
pag e
H ourly Time V alues A ssigned t o V arious A r tic le s o f
Bo m Sewlag by C ocoaltteee o f Hewemleers and H orn
Econom ists In floxenan, Montana 1 9 ^ 3 ............................................
26
Valtuie A a s ly te J to V ario u s A r t i c l e s o f B me Sewing
and th e Average !core o r "R a tin g s c a le " D erived
From T hese Ta u e s , Bozm a a , Wont ne 1 9 4 3 .................. ....
?7
D is tr ib u tio n o f Average Y eerly Sewing Scores f o r
??7 JtoiUSEiSkera, Bozeuon, M ontrna 1943 .......................................
29
Sumfeer and Kind o f A r t i c l e s C om prising Average
Y e arly Sewing S cores o f Homemakers, Bozeaan.
30
V
D is tr ib u tio n o f F a i l l e s ty C ity D i s t r i c t s and
Fom eankere Answering C au satio n -ire, B ose a n .
31
TI
D is tr ib u tio n o f F a A ly Members by Age and S ta tu s
TII
Hoaimaaksrs Sewing S co res i n R e la tio n to S iz e o f
T ill
IX
X
n
m
X III
32
35
D is tr ib u tio n o f Fa i l l e s by Income and O ccupation,
37
D is tr ib u tio n o f Sewing S co res i n R e la tio n to F aed ly
Income -md Husband* s Occun& tlon.B :z-man. Montana 1943 • •
JS
D is tr ib u tio n o f Employed and Hon-employed Romeaekere,
by Sewing s c o r e s , &>*‘u,ian, Montana 1943 ...................... ....
39
Amount and D is tr ib u tio n o f sew ing Time by Bsiployed
and Ionrew ployed Hoiuemekers, Bosesaan, Montr n s 1943. . . .
41
K inds o f Sewing Equipment Owned by HesmMkers
Bose^iaa* Montana 1943 ...................... ..................................
43
D is tr ib u tio n o f Homemakers Sewing equipment end Sewing
44
4
T a b le
m
XY
m
mi
mu
ns
XX
m
mi
m il
T itle
________________
D is tr ib u tio n o f Haueeeakers by ^qulpmeBt and sew ing
Scsores i n H e lr tio n to FsrulIy In e a a e , Bests 5&a,i*oat a a
I ;# ) ..
J£*m
4b
P e r c e n t D i s t r i b u t i o n o f Booas Used and Jtooeie P r e f e r r e d f o r Sewing, B o s m e a , Montana 1 ) 4 3 ...................................
4b
P r o p o r tio n o f Homemakers S t r t l n g Beasone I o r sew ing
C la s s lx le d by Y e a rly Sewing Sc o r e s , Bo semen ,Mont a n 1)43
. .
48
. . .
50
P r o p o r tio n o f Homroakears S ta tin g Reasons f o r sew ing
I C la a s if l e d by Income G roups) B o sm a a . * a t an; 1943.
P r o p o r tio n o f Homemakers S ta tin g Seasons f o r Sewing
( C l a s s i f i e d by T rR ln ln f i n SewingJBosaaBntIIo n tfn a 1943.
. .
51
P e rc e n ta g e o f A aesere Showing K inds o f -T n en is
f o r F am ily Members on Bhieh Sewings Can b e X fie e k ed
Through Home S e e in g , Boseman, M ontana 1943 .................................
5?
D i s t r ib u tio n o f Homemakers by Sewing S co res and
T r a in in g i n sew ing, Bozwvan, Montnnr 1 9 4 3 .................................
54
P r o p o r tio n o f Homemakers S tfttin g D i f f i c u l t i e s o f
Sewing ( C l a s s i f i e d by Types o f Sewing T ra in in g )
B oseaantMont n s 1943 ..............................................................
55
P r o p o r tio n o f Homemakers S ta tin g D i f f i c u l t i e s o f
Sewing ( C l a s s i f i e d by Types o f Sewing T ra in in g
and Sewing c o re s ) Boseoan, M oatfna 1943 .
.
.
Comparison o f th e Aweroge Amount and Kind o f Sewing
by Hiwe—VfiTe i n P re -w a r and ^ a r - tim e P e r io d s ,
. . .
56
59
- 3 «
ABSTRACT
An o b je c tiv e r a t i n g s c a le e»e d ev elo p ed to e v a la a te th e e x te n t
o f Be ,in?-, done b y homemaker# o f Boseman, M ontana.
With t h e a i d o f com-
m itte e s o f hciaeciskere end p r o f e s s io n a l home e co n o m ists, r a t i n g s c a le s s e re
fo rm u la te d to m easure th r e e m ajo r s h e e t s o f Sewinf? end from them a s c o re
was d e riv e d f o r h j a r t i c l e s o f s e e in g .
th e sewing r e p o r ts o f 2/ 6 homemakers.
T hese v a lu e s e e re them a p p lie d to
She r e s u l t a n t s c o re s c e re need a s
a b a s i s f o r th e s tu d y o f f a c t o r s th o u g h t to in flu e n c e th e amount and k in d
o f home sew ing.
l o s e r c o s t , s a t i s f a c t i o n and enjoym ent were th e c h ie f reason# f o r
home sew ing g iv e n by th e homemakers.
The g r e a t e s t d i f f i c u l t i e s re p o rte d
e re i n p a t t e r n a l t e r a t i o n s , and th e c o n s tr u c ti o n , f i t t i n g a n a s ty l i n g o f
g a rm e n ts.
T hese homemakers d ev o ted a n a v erag e o f f o u r h o u rs p e r week to
t h e i r sew ing a c t i v i t i e s .
E lg lity -two p e rc e n t o f th e homemakers were doing some sewing
nd had In c re a s e d th e t o t a l amount done d a r in g th e tsro war y e a r s .
m ost f r e q u e n tly made were h o u se d r e s s e s , a p ro n s , t-nd s k i r t s f o r
women -,nd ■ jm m # f o r a l l fa m ily members.
Garment#
i r i s and
Many more a r t i c l e # were reno­
v a te d d u rin g th e t w o-year-i r r - 1 Ime p e r io d th a n f o r th e c o rre sp o n d in g
p re-w r u e rio d .
The d a ta were se c u re d ty q u e s t! o n n a ir s i n d ilc h hoinet^kers gave
in fo rm a tio n
problem #.
co n ce rn in g t h e i r fa m ily s t a t u s and t h e i r s e e in g a c t i v i t i e s and
They were re q u e s te d to e s tim a te th e amount o f sew ing done d a rin g
th e p a s t f o u r y e a r s , 19^0 th ro u g h 19^3 to a llo w a com parison o f th e amount
o f sew ing done i n two y e a rs o f war tim e w ith t h a t done d u rin g th e two
-
b -
p n s-w o r y e a r s .
Th* d*vclot)cter;t o f th e r t i a
s c a le s which make p o s s ib le &
q u a n t i t a t i v e e v a lu a tio n o f home sew ing I e c o n sid e re d th e e a s t v a lu a b le
c o n tr ib u tio n o f t h i s t h e s i s .
T h is d e v ic e sh o u ld p ro v e o f v a lu e to
th o s e r e s p o n s ib le f o r c lo th in g c u r r i c u l a , to s tu d e n ts a s a ireans o f
Ju d g in g t h e i r p r o g r e s s , to homemakers d e s ir in g an e v a lu a tio n o f t h e i r
work and to th o s e
sew ing p r a c t i c e s
e o p le I n t e r e s t e d i n making s tu d ie s r e l a t i v e to home
-
7
-
IMTRUDCCTIOR
Sewing &ae b een re e e g n H e d f o r m&ny c e n tu r ie s &s an i w o r t u n t
a c t i v i t y o f th e h o u seh o l4 .
O r ig in a lly , a l l sewing was done by hr.nd and
women had to d e v o te c o n s tde a b le tim e to th e nuking o f g arm en ts and house­
h o ld t o r t i l e a r t i c l e s .
L e a rn in g to s e a wa# one o f th e e s s e n t i a l p a r t s o f
th e e d u c a tio n o f e v ery young g i r l a s many h an d s
n eeds o f a fa ra lly .
e re re q i r e d to su p p ly th e
With tite In v e n tio n o f th e s e o in
cv c h in e , th « re e a s e
a n Iner-- Se i n th e m o u n t o f sew ing one women O u ld rc o o m p lish which u s u a ll y
r e s u l t e d i n th e p ro d u c tio n o f a g r e a t e r number o f I t m e -
t e r , when th e
power sew ing miiCi.ine was d e v elo p e d , ready-saade a r t i c l e s began to a ; « r on
t . e B tirket and homemaker# were g iv e n a chance to choose w h eth er th e y sh o u ld
make a l l o f t h e i r garm ents and household t e x t i l e f u r n is h in g s o r buy them i n
th e f i n i s h e d f e r n .
T here a r e I n d ic a tio n s t h t , : o r v a rio u s r e a s o n s , most
homeuak^rs h av e found i t d e s l r f l i e to c o n tin u e to do some home sew ing, a lth o u g h
l i t t l e i s known a b o u t th e a c tu a l m am M bein g done.
Only a few s tu d ie s have
been made WU oh f u r n is h In fo rtir U on concerning th e sewing a c t i v i t i e s o f
homemaker# and th e y a r e nut o f re c e n t d a te .
I n The He aeh-old Pud^ e t
W bllshed i n 1917# Leeds (24) r e o r te d
on th e e x te n t o f c lo th in g c o n s tr u c tio n I n bO P e n n sy lv an ia hom es.
He found
U iot 75 p e r c e n t o f th e women were making a t I e s t a p r t o f t h e i r c lo th in g
nd were d e v o tln
a n BV«r®«'e o f 5 3 /^ h o u rs weekly to e e id n g .
Sewing was one o f th e many h o u seh o ld a c t i v i t i e s t h a t were s tu d ie d
b y Ward i n 1920 (35) but h e r in v e s t i g a t i o n was on a much l a r g e r so I e th a n
th e one by L eeds, a # she q u e stio n e d 9?24 woraen l i v i n ' i n 33 or th e n o rth e rn
and w estern s t a t e # .
Ward d id n o t r e p o r t w h eth er d l o f & p ' r t o f th e
6
-
f s u l l y clofeii l l m g made l a th e home n o r th e aeotm t o f th e IuwieiaBker1S
tim e d ev o ted to g e e la , b u t a c c o rd in g to h r f i g u r e s , 92 p e rc e n t o f a l l
tn e hoeemr-.kere re r e d o in g seme f % l l y sew ing w ith th e fo llo w in g re g io n a l
d is trib u tio n :
95 p e r c e n t i n th e ./e st m , 94 p e rc e -it l a th e c e n t r a l aad
Bb p e r c e n t i n tii» e a s te r n re g io n .
Rven tliO igh th e e a s te r n re g io n had th e
lo w e st p e rc e n ta g e o f women do in g sonie home searing t i l l s p e rc e n ta g e wa*
h ig h e r th a n t h e 75 p e rc e n t r e p o r te d b y L e e d s.
H oeew r , t h e f a l i l i e s
s tu d ie d iy L eeds were u rb a n , w h ile th o s e in c lu d e d I n Ward’ s s tu d y were
ru ra l.
The R e s u lts o f a C lotlA ng Survey i n I l l m
is
y R ilk e ra o n ( 3b)
c o v ered one o f th e s t a t e s i n th e c e n tr a l re g io n which m s in c lu d e d i n th e
survey by ward and s in c e b o th s tu d ie s were made i n 1930 and. th ro u g h home
d e m o n stra tio n a g e n ts i n C o -o p e ra tiv e E x te n s io n Work In A g r ic u ltu r e 'ind
Home
o n u l e s , i t # .s assum ed by th e p r e s e n t w r ite r t a t th e same b a s ic
d a ta
/ere u s e d ,
^ llk e rg o n 1g r e p o r t was aiore e x te n s iv e t m
she IuC l .visa th e ty p e s o f c lo tM a , made I n th e home.
a r d ’ s &a
f p e s tlo n a » lr e g from
IbOO r u ir d women s e r e u se d and o f t h i s number 20 p e rc e n t wad# a l l o f th e
f& iiily c lo th in g , 65 p e rc e n t taade a p r t o f th e fa m ily d o th in , , 53 p e rc e n t
mad# c iilld r e n ’ s d o t h l a g , znd 15 p e rc e n t made $nen*s s h i r t s .
Brown ( 9) q u e stio n e d 60 g r du»t< e o f hotne econo:d c s i n 1922
t o d e term in e t h e aeunmt and t y r e s o f c lo th in g m e t f r e q u e n tly made by th e :,,
sh e was i n t e r e s t e d In th e tr e n d s o f ho e sew ing f o r th e ru r n o s e o f ev alu a­
t i n g home econo. I c s c u r r i c u l a .
T hese women d id more sewlrv; f o r c h ild r e n
th a n f o r a d u lts b e c a u se " c h i ld r e n ’ s C lo th e 3 a r e e a s i e r to KtQke (and) can
be made from u se d m a te r ia ls to ad v an tag e* .
.
9
Omfr-Shlra o f tn e bO women made n r & c tlc a ily a l l o f t h e i r O iilld ren 1S
c lo th in g e i c e t tlv t f o r o l d e r boys.
Men1S pajam as and u n d e rc lo th in g were
made by 43 p e r c e n t o f th e women q u e stio n e d and s h i r t s by 31 p r e e n t A l l e
women’ s underw ear and d r e s s e s were rasde by o v e r 75 f e r e e n t o f th e iMmesaokers.
In 13?3» s tu d e n ts a t Ksassos S t t e A g ric u ltu re C o lle g e eonducted
a s tu d y r e l l i v e to th e c o s t o f making g e n a e n ts a t h im a s o o ^ a r e d w ith
th e c o s t o f s i m i l a r ready-m ade g a rm e n ts.
two y e a r s
The s tu d y co v ered & period- o t
nd O lrn to n (18) i n w ritin g th e r e p o r t a t te d : " I t would seen to
pay to sew
%
I f th e r e i s no o th e r jo b a t lu&ad whlcp p ay s b e t t e r .
However, n ney i s n o t th e c r i t e r i o n f o r th e dec s i on."
iay a tte m p te d t o determ in e th e amount o f s e a in
T h is stu d y I n no
done by h o m em k ers.
A nother i n v e s t i g a t i o n which d e a l t w ith c lo th in g
p roblem s was conducted by H a s tle and G o rto n (? 1 ) I n 192h.
re re l
a d lru n u ry
A t o t ; -I o f 4439
nd u rb a n f . ^ l l l e s In D e ln r r e , P e n n s y lv a n ia , heb: sk a, Sew T ork and
T exas were q u e s tio n e d , and I t was found t h a t more rur& l bm em okers were
,..,akin
v a r l u s ty p e s o f g m e a t s th a n w ere u rb a n wxsen.
One o f th e m ost e x te n s iv e su rv e y s on home sew ing was re p o rte d I n
19?7 by
’ r l e n and Caerpbell ( ? 8) o f tiie B ureau o f Home
c no d e s .
T h is
s tu d y a tte w t e a to o b ta in in fo rm a tio n on th e tr e n d s o f sew ing from os many
u rb a n f a m ilie s a s p o s s ib le , s in c e a t t h a t tim e p r a c t i c a l l y f il l a v a ila b le
d a ta on home sew ing were from r u r a l homemakers.
R ep o rts were re c e iv e d from
1843 f a m ilie s I n 32 s t a t e s and th e D i s t r i c t o f Colum bia, 1175 o f shorn l i v e d
In c i t i e s .
The in v e s t i g a t o r s s t a t e d t h a t th e r e s u l t s d id n o t show th e
t o t a l amount o f home sew ing, but i n t o n a t i o n was g a in e d a s to th e number of
women m aking d i f f e r e n t k in d s o f g arm en ts.
The k in d s m ost f r e q u e n tly made
10 were e a r n e r waeh d r e s s e s , house d r e s s e s , a p ro n s , s le e p in g and tinder# m e n iv.
A sid e from tn e k in d o f g a m u t s made and t h e i r r e l a t i v e iE|>ort.'uice a# I n ­
d ie tn d by t& e a m b e r o f women BtOslm them , o th e r f c t o r s w hich in flu e n c e d
th e amount o f home sewing were s tu d ie d ln c lu d ln -; th e re a e o n s f o r sewing and
d l l i l c u l t ! o s e n c o u n te re d by th e homemakers.
I n th e s e e a r l i e r s tu d ie s c o n c e rn in g th e e x te n t an d k in d o f home
sew ing th e r e were lew d a ta w ith which p r e s e n t sewing, a c t i v i t i e s c o u ld be
compared and th e r e was no m en tio n o f h o u seh o ld t e x t i l e fu rn ls fe ln c s om-de i n
th e home.
F u rth erm o re, w ith in th e kno le d g e o f th e in v e s t i g a t o r , no stu d y
o f th e tr e n d s o f home sew ing h a s been p u b lis h e d s in c e I >27 ;
t n ^ t d a te anti th e
y e t between
r e s e n t tim e , many change 9 hav e o c c u rre d In th e a v a i l a b i l ­
i t y o f re a d y -to -w e a r g r r a e n ts and t e x t i l e f u r n l sitin g s s s <#ell a s i n th e
c h o ic e o f y r d goods and sew ing a c c e s s o r ie s , 1® rovem ents i n p a t t e r n s , and
l a sew ing e q tlpm ens.
c e r n ln
home.
D ix ie re n t a u t h o r i t i e s have c o n f l i c t i n g o p in io n s eon-
th e say th e s e Changes h av e l n f l enced th e sew ing a c t i v i t i e s I n th e
( I ) (Xb) (I S ) ( 3 9 ) .
The In c re a s e d volume o f ready-m ade a r t i c l e s
g iv e s th e im p re s sio n t h a t th e r e i s l e s s home sewing w h ile th e in c re a s e d e I e
o f y a rd goods an d p a t t e r n s would I n d ic a te t h a t h me Seadnr. i s s t i l l m im­
p o r ta n t p a r t o f h o u seh o ld p ro d u c tio n ( 1 5 ) .
T e a c h e rs and le a d e r s who e r e d i r e c t l y co n n ected w ith homemaking
e d a c a tl n a s w ell a s p e rs o n s engaged i n o o m e r c ia l work W v e e x p re ss e d a n
i n t e r e s t i n o b ta in in g f a c t u a l m a te r ia l c o n c e rn in g th e sew ing a c t i v i t i e s o f
homemakers.
I t w»e thought t e n t a n i n te n s iv e stu d y o f a c t i v i t i e s i n a
t y p i c a l co. , u n i t y would be i n d i c a t i v e o f e i t u a t l n
e lg W m r e .
The co»,s sanity s e le c te d f o r t h i s s tu d y was Boseemn, Nomt a n .
- I l co’in ty "3"'f.t o f G a l l a t i n C ount?, a to e n o f apt iro^lim t I y 8 , OiO I r h M t ^ n ts ,
sltoiB t
I n an l r r l c te d a g r i c u l t u r a l v a l l e y .
I t l a M so th e s i t e o f
M ontcm "5?tte C o lle g e .
B efo re tmdmrta k in g th e s tu d y some i n f o r r t i c n o o n c ern ln g re c e n t
rer.; • In her e sew ng ene obt$.l»ed tiueau^ interviews Mth the lecn l
m e rc h an ts d e a lin g I n y e rd goods.
I n th e o p in io n o f th e s e B erch e n ta th e r e
M e been on ln e rm e te in th e aciount o f home seuin, a s ev id en ced Sy t h e i r
re c o rd a o f cnnu I s a l e s o f y a rd ^ocds f o r s ie v e n l Cunsee tlv u y.-.tars.
The
f i g u r e s s u p p lie d by one lo c a l m erchant were a@ fo llo w s t
$ s le o f Tard Gooda
Index
T e rr
n u sd ar
19M
93
1JB
1939
be
1940
19%
(»1
1945 (b a se p e rio d )
100
At th e tim e th e s e d a ta a e re f u r n is h e d to th e invesfctgtfce?, th e s l e e f i g u r e s
t o r 1943 -e re inco: p l » t e , b u t th e m erchant ln d i m t e d th r-t th e index number
would shcs * » d e c lin e bea u s e o f a le s s e n e d su p p ly o f m a t e r i a l s r t h e r th a n
r. d e e r91 a s i n demand.
f u r t h e r in fo rm a tio n v o lu n te e re d ^
l o c a l nvren nt.s was t o th e
a f f e c t th*5t i n th e Bos^aan a o r e s a t tlie p r e s e n t tim e , th -r?- a r e no s - rio u a
s h o rta g e s e x is t in g I n a ry l i n e o f y a rd go o d s, b u t v a r i e t i e s o f M l f a r i c s
a r e re d u c ed .
The eonr.ensua o f 0 ln lo n emong th e m e r^ k e sts was U iat th e
* I e o f y? r d goods, would o f f e r n f a i r in d ex o f W - aa» n t o f lo o s l bcoe
sew ing.
S in c e c u r r e n t w ar-tim e c o n d itio n s a f f e c t a l l norm al p ro c e d u re s
- 12
I t seecied d e s i r a b l e to In c lu d e th e aooxint ox sr.ir~6it.ie sew ing &# w e ll a e
t h a t o f p re -w a r y e a r s .
A f o u r - y e a r p e r io d was
e le c te d f o r th e stu d y ,
th e y e a r s I 40 and 1)41 r e p r e s e n tin g p re -w a r c o n d itio n s and c o n sid e re d a s
re a so n a b ly norm al y e a r s a s th e y mnrked th e p e r io d between a decade o f de­
p r e s s io n and o u r e n tra n c e i n t o World '#&r I I .
o f 1942
The home sew ing a c t i v i t i e s
nd 1943 were re g a rd e d a s r e p r e s e n ta tiv e o f w ar-tim e c o n d itio n s .
The s tu d y wa# p la n n e d to d e term in e th e amount and k in d o f
sew ing done by homemaker# i n B oseaaneKont n&, and to I n v e s tig a t e some o f
th e in f lu e n c in g f R C torse such a # th e I ) fa m ily lacot e and occur,a tlo a ,
2) re a s o n s f o r h. me sewing#
3) d i f f i c u l t i e s en co u n tered i n sewlnf,. 4)
h€$4etoBker*s t r a i n i n g i n th e fundam ental te c h n iq u e s o f sew ing, and 5 ) e f f e c t s
o f p r e s e n t w ar-tim e c o n d itio n s .
A m a jo r o b je c tiv e o f t h i s stu d y wa* th e
developm ent o f a r a t i n g s c a le Iy which home s w in g co I d be ev&lw te d .
T here seemed to be a r e a l n e ed f o r wuen & m easu rin g d e v ic e which would
e v a lu a te some o f th e m ost im p o rta n t c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s ComiaOB t o a l l sew ing,
nam ely, I ) th e t o t a l amount o f tim e r e q u ir e d , 2 ) th e n e c e s sa ry p re lim in a ry
p la n n in g to g e th e r w ith th e problem s o f c u t t i n g , and 3) th e d e g re e s o f s k i l l
r e q u ir e d f o r c o n s tr u c tio n and f i t t i n g .
Bach an evalu. t l o n would a ls o c o v e r
o th e r v a r ia b le s sucJi a s th e wide ra n g e s I n s t y l e , ty p e , s i s # , eaB%>lexlty
o f th e a r t i c l e to be made and w hether o r n o t th e a r t i c l e s were made o f new
o r re n o v a te d .,-tate r i a l .
As a r e s u l t o f an a n a ly s is o f th e s e problem # a r a t i n g s o c le was
d e v ise d to p e rm it an o b je c tiv e evaluation o f a l l I t m s o f home Sewinf;.
The a r t i c l e s in c lu d e d i n th e q u e s tio n n a ir e were g iv e n am a s s ig n e d v a lu e
-
13 -
f o r each o f th e th r e e m a jo r c h a r a c t e r i s t i c s ajtd s® a v e ra g e o f th e s e a&s
u s e d f o r th e f i n a l s c o r e .
By e y p ly la g th e av erag e s c o re to e a c h a r t i c l e
i n th e homemakers sa v in g record, a q u a n t i t a t i v e measurement was o b ta in e d
and i t was th e r e f o r e p o s s ib le to e v a lu a te th e accom plishm ents o f e ad i
and s t dy th e in f lu e n c e o f c e r t a i n f a c t o r s on th e amount and k in d o f
sev d n .
T h is study p r e s e n ts i n d e t a i l th e method by which th e o b je c tiv e
r a t i n g s c a le was developed and a p p lie d to e v a lu a te th e e x te n t o f sowing
ostong th e homemakers o f B oz^tantU oatana.
-
14
-
SITEDDS
I a p r pt I otis s tu d ie s th e e x te n t o f home sewing h a s been d e te r­
m ined m erely by g a th e r in g in fo rm a tio n on th e ty p e s o f i n t e n t s MBde b u t
j i t h no a tte m p t to e s tim a te th e a c tu a l so o u n t o f sewing by any u n i t o f
measure.
T h e re fo re , i t s e m e d
e s i r a b l e to work o u t & m ethod Iqr ahich th e
t o t a l siaount o f sewing done by a hoiaesseker c o u ld be e w alu a te d , th e n t e s t
th e w orth o f t h i s m ethod by u s in g i t to I n t e r p r e t o r e v a lu a te th e sewing
a c t i v i t i e s o f th e Bozesaan homemakers.
I n d e v e lo p in g sn o b je c tiv e r a t i n g s c a le th a t would a s s ig n a
g iv e n v a lu e to et ch a r t i c l e made Iqr sew ing, i t was n e c e s s a ry to a n a ly z e
a l l p ro c e d u re s c l a s s i f i e d a s "sew ing" and d eterm in e th e b a s ic elements
t h a t were in v o lv e d .
These seemed t o f e l l i n t o th r e e main h e a d in g s ,
I ) th e a c tu a l amount o f tim e r e q u ir e d to make a n a r t i c l e , 2 ) th e s k i l l
r e q u ir e d f o r p la n n in g &nd c u t t i n g , an d 3) th e s k i l l r e q u ire d f o r c o n s tr u c ­
t i o n an d f i t t i n g .
A r a t i n g s c a le was th e n s e t up f o r each elem ent which
c o u ld be u s e d i n e e c u rln g a s c o re f o r each a r t i c l e .
The amount o f tim e sp e n t i n sew ing a p p e a rs to b e one o f th e sio st
l s p o r t a a t elem en ts becau se i t v a r ie s w ith th e ty p e o f a r t i c l e Be w ell a#
w ith th e homemakers s ta n d a rd s o f workmanship, s k i l l , and sp eed , and th e
B«r.in
equipm ent i v a i l a b l e .
From p e rs o n a l e x p e rie n c e end c o n s u lt t i on
w ith sew ing e x p e r ts , i t was th o u g h t t h t s ix ty - f o u r h o u rs would c o v er th e
mif-ximiza amount o f tim e r e q u ir e d to s a k e th e m ost c o m p licated a r t i c l e i f
th e 3»wln
a b i l i t y o f th e h o m e ttk e r and th e degree o f c o m p le x ity o f each
a r t i c l e s e re assum ed to be a v e ra g e .
A s c a le ra n g in g from one to 64 h o u r
-aas th e n ^ r b i t n r i l y s e t up to p e rm it a n e s tim a tio n o f tim e r e q u ir e d f o r
- 15 tusking th e Tzurl u e a r t i c l e s . (S c a le A ).
F o r co n v en ien ce, s e e t>*t b o a rs .rere
Q iv ia ed I n to e i rJit p e r io d s o f 8 h o a rs each .
SGALt A.
RAfIae 3CA tt IOR RSMNATIMO TRt WREBKtt OF BOtiRS RtQOIttO TO
HAKt A R rIdK S OF HOKB SFWTRO
T in e r e t i r e d
Bears
S o u rs
I
1 -8
2
9 - lfc
3
17^29
9.
5
33-NO
b
n l-4 g
7
49-5 p
S
57-6%
I n e s t a b l i s h i n g a r a t i n g s o l e f o r e v a lu a tin g th e s k i l l r e q u ire d
f o r p l a n i n g end c u t t i n g th e v a rio u s a r t i c l e s made, th e i n v e s t i g a t o r
a r b i t r a r i l y d e c id e d to d i s t r i b u t e th e d e g re e s o f s k i l l w ith in v a lu e s o f one
t o 32 p o i n t s , ( s e a l # B ).
T h is s c a le «&« S fra n g e a i n f o u r l e v e l s o f e ig h t
p o i n t s to a llo w f o r th e d i i x e r e n t d e g re e s o f c o m p lex ity and a b r i e f d e s c r ip ­
t i o n o f th e s k i l l s f o r each le v e l was in c lu d e d .
A t h i r d r a t i n g s e a l# was d ev elo p ed i n a e isd l& r m anner f o r an
• v a lu a t io n o f th e s k i l l r e q u ir e d i n c o n s tr u c tio n and f i t t i n g . ( S e a ls C ).
D e s c rip tio n s were a ls o in c lu d e d i n t h i s r a t i n g so l e to c o v e r th e v a r ia tio n s
i n d e g re e s o f s k i l l r e q u ir e d a t each l e v e l .
I n u s in g th e r a t i n g s c a le s t o a s s i g n v a lu e s to v a r io u s a r t i c l e s
o f sewing i t seemed d e s ir a b le to s e c u re th e a s s i s t nee o f p e rs o n s e x p e rie n c e d
I n sew ing.
Two e o e s s ltte e e , one made up o f n in e teomeoakers, and th e o th e r com­
p o sed o f seven p r o f e s s io n a l home eco n raalsts were I r v i t e d to eoqrrees t h e i r
J n d sn e n t re g a rd in g th e v a r i a t i o n s i n d e c re e s o f c o m p lex ity . (A ppendix k ) .T hese
cam i t t e e mervib^rs s e r e chosen on th e b a s is o f t h e i r a b i l i t y to make a l l o f th e
garm ents Sn q u e s tio n , nd f o r t h e i r g e n e ra l competency l a m skine su eh m e v a lu ti o n .
SCALK S.
WTIHG SCALE JOSi JUDOIHG WRKES 0» DIfTICULrY IH PUmIHG AND CUTTING ATTICLES Of
HUML SEWim
V alues
1
- 8
.
9 - 1 6
.
I?
-
24
.
2 5 - 3 *
D e s c rip tio n o f Requirem enta
Hay be to r n f o r a ia e
Ho p a t t r n r e q u ir e d
Only s l i g h t m easu reta in ts needed
Very sim ple garm ent
o r a rtic le
.M a te r ia l may need
.p r e p a r a t io n f o r
.c u t t i n g
.A lte r a tio n # may b e
.made on p a tte r n
.S l i g h t m arking
.V ery l i t t l e , i t any
.f ittin g
e
#
#
e
*
*
. A l t e r r t i n s may b e made
.o n p a t t e r n and a s woric
•p ro g re s s e s
'.M a te ria l r e q u ir e s
.p r e s s in g o r s iirln k Am
.Soi&e f i t t i n g n e c e ssa ry
•Some s k i l l r e q u ir e d
.Hediwa i n co m p lex ity
t
.M a te ria l r e q u ir e s
.p r e s s in g , steam in g o r
. s h rin k in g
.More COLTilex p a tte r n s
. t o be stu d ied , and
♦ fitte d
.R e q u ire s c a r e i n p la n .n ia
.R e q u ire s s k i l l i n mark. l a g and c u ttin g
. f i t t i n g th e u n tte r n
. F i t t i n g a s *orfc t
. g ra s s e s
so m e
o.
a m ho scale *oa ju u in o momoes o r d i f -i c u m t in consthjctioh aha n r » n w a spic l e s
or KOKE smnm
*
P l a l n . s t r a i g h t seam#
Very l i t t l e p r e s s in g
L i t t l e o r no f i t t i n g
L i t t l e o r no t r l n o f
s p e c ia l f i n i s h i n g
%
1 7 - 2 4
i
.
3
80
I
9 - 1 6
'
•
V alues
D e s c rip tio n o f C l a s s i f i c a t i o n
P l a i n , s iu p le seams
S lig h t p r e s s in g
S lig h t f l t t l n , ; a s I n
s t r a p s , o r hems
Trim o p tio n a l, bu t
n o t considered. In
e v a lu a tio n
exam plei f l a t f e l l ,
P reneii. o r o v e rc a s t.
F i t t i n g a s work p ro ­
g re s s e s
s« ae s k i l l I n c o n s tru c ­
tio n
hand work r e q u ir e d and/
o r I a l l o r l n i o f garm ent
D e ta ile d f i t t i n g s ,
f i n i s h e s and trim
S k i l l r e q u ire d I n con­
s tr u c tio n
I
H
16
-
The o o i t i l t t e s were s u p p lie d w ith th e fo llo w la g l i s t o f a r t i c l e s f o r dhich
an e v a lu a tio n was d e s ir e d ;
A. G i r l s and wa-en garm ents
I)
11 s ; <?) p a n t i e s , C t i l d 1 a; 3) ^owna; - ) p ajam ae;
c o tto n ; b) a p ro n s ;
7)
h o u s e -c o a ts ,
c o l l a r s . e u i l e and d ic k e y s; 6) b lo u se s and
s h i r t s , s e r a i- ta ilo r e d o r d ressm ak er;
j) s k i r t s ; ID) jum pers;
I I ) J e r k in s ; IP ) h o u s e - d re s s e s , w ashable c: t t o n ; 1 3) a fte rn o o n
-re-.;test 14) fo rm al d r e s s e s , s le e v e le s s ; lt>) J a c k e ts* p a tc h p o c k e ts ,
B fim i-a^jcrt.eot t a i l o r e d ; l 6 ) s la c k s , n o t ln o li d in g s h i r t ; 17) snowaultc- o r s k i - s u i t s , u n lin e d ; 18) s u i t s , d ressm ak er o r s e m i- ta ilo r e d ,
lin e d ; 19 ) oo& ts, sn ra te r, l i n e d , d ressm ak er o r s e ! - t a i l o r e d .
B. Boys and men:
PO) u n d e rc lo th in g , c o tto n s h o r ts ; 21) p a ja m a s; ? ? ) s h i r t 9 , s n o r t;
?3) t r o u s e r s , b o y s, e ls e 12 , patch pockets; PU) s u i t s ; 7^ ) snowsu its, u n lin e d ; 2b) j a c k e t s , s p o r t, p Tc p r e s e t s ; PJ ) Co- ts.younc
boys, s e m i- ta ilo r e d .
C. I n f a n t
se a r:
2 3 ) d ia p e r s ; 29 ) g e r tr u d e s ; 30 ) b a th ro b e s ; 31) b a n tin g s .c r i b o r
boggy; j 2 ) s le e p e r s ; 33 ) p l a y - s u i t s , 1- p ie c e s tm - s u it, b i $>-s t y I e ;
34 ) rot*>«ra; 3i>) dr*-: e s , c o tto n ; »
s t y l e , s h o r t p e a ts ;
s h i r t - a n ts - s u it ,s u s p e n d e r
37) co t s , l i n e d .
D. H ousehold SfiV ln :
3 ) C u r tin s
a d d r a p e r ie s ; J j) to w e ls , d is h ; UO) s h e e ts ; 41) t i l
low c n e e s , t u b i n ; 42) q u i l t s o r com forter® ,h u d - tl e d o r m achineq u i l t e d ; 4 j) s p re a d s , p la in « lth o r w ith eu t flo u n c e ; 44) ta b le
-
19 -
c l o t h s , a nd he. ^ d ; kg) n a p k in s , p i - c e c o v e r s , hand heesaedt kn) a l l - c o v e r s ,
o v e r s tu f f e d c h a ir ; k j) u p h o ls te r y , o v e r s tu f f e d c h a ir .
The T O tiidttee e m b e r s were a ls o s u r n lie d w ith th e fo llo w in g
in s tru c tio n s :
1 , I n e v a lu a tin g th e g$m nents and h o u seh o ld a r t i c l e s l i s t e d th e fo llo w ­
in g a ssu m p tio n s &re to be saadei
k,
B.
C.
*
T he homemakers p o s s e s s io n o f a sew iit ; m a r i n e
The hoiuflE&kets p o s s e s s io n o f a d eq u a te sewing eq.iipiaent
The p r o v is io n f o r ad eq u ate p h y s ic a l f a c i l i t i e s f o r u s e o f
sew ing equipm ent.
2 . The fo llo w in g f a c t o r s sh o u ld b e c o n s id e re d a s a v e ra g e when Ju d g in g
sew ing item s*
A.
B.
C.
D.
The homemakers s k i l l and speed
S ta n d a rd s o f workmanship
S iz e s end s t y l e s o f a r t i c l e s
The u se o f m ost common m a te r ia ls f o r a g iv en ty p e o f a r t i c l e .
( I n a few c a g e s, m a te r ia l h a s b e en s p e c if ie d )
3# I t i s m t deemed f e a s i b l e to c o n s id e r th e fo llo w in g f a c t o r s alien
a s s ig n in g v a lu e s :
a.
E la b o ra tio n o f garm ents ty em b ro id ery , c r o c h e t, o r o th e r
form s o f handwork o r trim .
$ . The hometaaker* a p r e fe re n c e f o r making c e r t a i n ty p e s o f a r t i c l e s
C. - v a lu a tio n o f q u a l i t y o f th e woA m anship o r s t y l i n g o f f i n i s h e d
a rtic le .
The two com m ittees were th e n a sk e d to r a t e th e in d iv id u a l a r t i c l e s
by s c a le A and e s tim a te th e a v e ra g e number o f h o u rs r e q u ir e d to com plete
each a r t i c l e o f home sewing and to a s s ig n tim e v a lu e s to e ac h .
The
avers* e in d iv id u a l e s tim a te s o f b o th com m ittees were ta b u la te d .
The
homemakers g fv e c o n s i s t e n t l y lo w er e s tim a te s o f tim e t t e n th o s e o f th e
p r o f - s s ic n a l group and a n a v e ra g e o f th e t a e v a lu e s w-s u s e d .
The ran g e
20
o f 64 h o a rs on th e s c a le wRs found a d e q u a te to o a rer a l l estW a& eg.
Sim se b o th g ro u p s c o n sid e re d t h a t tim e n e c e s s a r ily in v o lv e d
some c o n s id e r a tio n o f t h e o th e r f a c t o r s o f p la n n in , c u t t i n g , c o n s tr u c tin g
nnd f i t t i n g th e y recommended t h a t o n ly o n e - h a lf o f th e e c tu n l rmount o f
tim e be u se d a s an a s s ig n e d v a lu e i n o r d e r n o t to o v erw eig h t th e tim e
f a c t o r . (T a b le I . )
a e h a r t i c l e was th e n g iv e n two more v a lu e s , u s in g S c a le s B and
C by th e co , l t t e e o f home e co n o m ists.
&n a v erag e o f a l l th r e e a ss ig n e d
v a lu e s w%s c a lc u la te d and a d o p ted a s a s c o re f o r each I t w
o f se e in g .
(T a b le I I . )
Tlie q u e s tio n a ro s e &e to th e v a lu e s to be a s s ig n e d to re n o v a ted
a rtic le s .
The haw enaker ju d g e s su g g e ste d a n in c r e a s e o f 100 p e rc e n t i n th e
v a lu e o f m ade-over a r t i c l e * to c o v er th e e x t r a tim e and s k i l l in v o lv e d i n
p la n n in g , r i p u l a g , c le a n in g , m ending, p ie c i n g , and f i t t i n ,
u s e d m a te r ia l f o r c u ttin g ” and c o n s tr u c tio n .
in p re p a rin g th e
The o p in io n s o f th e home
econom ist com m ittee rcQ.ati.ve to th e amount t h a t should be added to th e
o r i g i n a l s c o re v a r ie d from 20 to 100 p e r c e n t f o r d i f f e r e n t I ta a a .
I t #&*
a r b i t i r r i l y d e c id e d to add 50 p e rc e n t to th e f i n a l a v erag e s c o re s o f a l l
ite m s when made o f re n o v a te d m a te r ia l.
I n o r d e r to a v o id f r a c t i o n s i n th e f i n a l a v e ra g e s c o re , i t was
n e c e s s a ry i n a few in s ta n c e s to s l i g h t l y a d ju s t th e a v erag e o f th e re o o a ended v a lu e s .
Wlien a d ju stm e n ts were needed on th e tim e f a c t o r , th e
e s tim a te s o f homemakers were fa v o re d .
The f i n a l s c o re s a r e c o n sid e re d a s
r e l a t i v e com parisons r a t h e r th a n a b s o lu te m easuresaents.
T hese av erag e
s c o re s c o n s t i t u t e th e r a t i n g ecs-le d e v ise d to meag r e th e amount and k in d
21 o f sew ing. ( T a b le I I ) .
The q u e s tio n n a ir e method. «&s u s e d f o r th e c o l l e c t i o n o f l n f o r it i o n from 2 /6 h » «.iakera i n BozeaBwi, M onttw te
The q u e s tio n s ( Appeztiix A
were p re o a re d by th e i n v e s t i g a t o r an d ap p ro v ed by a s e le c te d l i s t o f home
econoiidLsts engaged i n te a c h in g , e x te n s io n and re s e a rc h work.
These q u es-
tio n n l r e s were sccocq'aai^L by & le tte r ,( A p p e n d ix B ) e x p la in in g th e stu d y
end w ith i n s t r u c t i o n s ( A posndlx C ) to in c r e a s e th e u n ifo rm ity
nd
" c c u r cy of re tu rn s .
P e rs o n a l and group In te rv ie w s were a rra n g e d w henever p o s s ib le
end t r a i n e d a s s i s t a n t s a id e d in making a d d itio n a l c o n ta c ts w ith hom euakera.
(A ppendix O ) .
F o r t - f i v e p e r c e n t o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e s were d i s t r i b u t e d
by a s s i s t a n t s th ro u ^ b th e home econom ics c la s s e s a t th e l o c a l ju n io r and
s e n io r h i h s c h o o ls .
The b a la n c e o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e s were secu red
th ro u g h ch u rch o r g a n is a tio n s , women’ s c lu b s , ed u e& ticn al end I n d u s t r i a l
fprouna.
A s e c tio n o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e c a l l e d for th e or>inlon o f th e
homemaker a s to th e con v en ien ce o f lo c a t io n and arrangem ent o f hr r sewing
equipm ent.
A m easu rin g d e v ice was a ls o needed to s c o re th e lo c a t io n a s
ju d g ed by th e hr-uim’-k e rs .
A saaxirdiuBi number o f 3 p o in ts was g iv e n when
th e homemaker in d ic a te d th e lo c a t io n a s " v e ry good,"
" s a t i s f a c t o r y , " and I p o in t f o r "p o o r l o c a t i o n ."
2 p o in ts fo r
A p o o r Io e r t l on was
c o n s id e re d worthy o f one u o ln t on th e b a s i s o f I t s a v a i l a b i l i t y to th e
homemaker, r e g a r d le s s o f i t s co n v en ien ce.
Cotaparl eons o f th e amomr and k in d o f equipm ent u s e d i n v a rio u s
h o u seh o ld s were im p o s sib le u n t i l a s c o r in
d e v ic e was e s ta b lis h e d .
T h is
- 2?
was done w ith th e s e e l s ta n c e o f t h e e c x a iitte e o f home e co n o m ists,
th e
t o t I rasub-r o f eqainr e n t lteru s In c lu d e d on th e q u e s tio n n a ir e m n ^ lv e n a
v s lu e o f 100 p o i n t s , which does n o t im ply a p e r f e c t s c o re f o r sewing eq u ip ­
ment h u t wTi-s i - r M t r s r l l y chosen a s a c o n v en ie n t b a s is f o r com paring th e
amounts &M k in d s o f sewing e<piipaiettt.
Se l e D
f o p ro v id e i n f o m a t i o n c o n c e rn in g th e amount and k in d o f sew ing
th e hcm aaskers w ere re q u e s te d to l i s t th e number o f g arm en ts and h o u seh o ld
a r t i c l e s th>y h ad ia-.de d u rin g th e p a s t f o u r ye a. 3, IS 1Ki
h ro w 'h 19h3.
She­
l l s t I n d u ed 19 g ssto en ts f o r g i r l s and women, S fo r be, s and if-n, 10 f o r
i n f a n t s , and 10 h o u seh o ld Item s to re p re s e n t th o s e m ost commonly made i n
th e heme w ith p r o v is io n f o r th e homemaker to in d ie t e w hether th e a r t i c l e s
were Kiade from
« or u sed m a te iia is .
The f o u r y e a r p e r io d was d iv id e d
e q u a lly in to two y* r p e r io d s , I i 1O and I g 1Kl re p r e s e n tin g p re -w a r tim e and
lg 4 2 end I g h j WtiP-tiete, to e n a b le a co m p sriso n o f tr e n d s i n aesin#, nod to
d e te fla ln e any n o tic e s H e e f f e c t o f w ar-tim e c o n d itio n s .
A f te r th e d a te were t e l o l a t e d th e r a t i n g s c a le s p e rm itte d a
quant i t t l v e a n a ly s is o f th e sew ing a c t i v i t i e s o f P76 Boausan hoetsmeker s
sad. i t was t h e r e f o r e , p o s s ib le to d e term in e &ny rml t l m h ip b e t a s n th e
e x te n t o f sew in
amount
inceri ,e,
s a d c e r t a i n f a c t o r s b e lie v e d to have %n i n f I ^n ce on th e
«nd k in d o f @ win .
The f a c t o r s s tu d ie d ln s lu . **d f % i l y s iz e ,
utd o s c u la tio n , th e amount o f tim e th e b m e e n k e r was a l e to d e ­
v o te to sew ing, th e re a so n s f o r sew ing, d i f f i c u l t i e s e n co u n te re d , and th e
homemaker* b t r a i n i n g i n th e fundam ental te c h n iq u e s o f sew ing.
The t a b l e s p r e s e n tin g th e r e s u l t s o f th in study have b-?en b a se d
upon th e a c tu a l number o f answ ers to g iv e n q u e s tio n s .
On th e
q u e s tio n -
— 23 —
SCALE D.
HATIW SCALK JTOH THl KVAL='ATIOS OV SEWlHO KQniPMBIT
P o la t9
I n d iv id u a l
I t * 3 o t K@uln:.*nt________________________________________Item ___________T o ta l
A. Sewing m achines ! t r e a d l e o r e l e c t r i c ) ......................
30
B. A ttachm ents f o r u&chine
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
5
L . Working c o n d itio n o f m achine (maximum)......................
1) g o o d ............................................................
2) f t A r
............................................................................
3) p o o r .......................................................................................
C. Sewing k i t and c a b i n e t ............................... ....
1) aewlnt, k i t ..............................
2) sew ing c a b in e t ...............................................
D. S hears ..........................................................................................
6
1) r e g u la r c u t t i n g ...................................................
2) e m b r o id e r y ................................................................
4
3) b u tto n h o le . . . . . . . . . . .................. . . .
4) p i n k i n g ................................
I.
M
1)
2)
3)
0
e a s u r e s ................................................................... ....
ttiiie lin e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
ru le r . . . . . . . . .
...................................
.
y a r d s t i c k ...................... ....
t a i l o r ' s sq u a re . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
? . M a r k e r s .......................................................................................
I ) t a i l o r * a c i i a l k ........................................................
I
? ) t r a c in g wheel ..................................................................
3) s k i r t m a r k e r ......................................................................
10
10
5
U
3
15
I
4
8
4
I
I
4
I
6 . I r o n in g b o a rd s
............................................ .........................
1) p o r t a b l e
. . . . . . . . . ....................................
2) s t a t i o n a r y ..............................................................
R . I r o n s ..................
1) n o n -re g u la te d
2) r e g u la te d . . ,
3) steam . . .
K. P r e s s in g c u sh io n s
F u ll- le n g th m ir r o r
D ress form . . . .
T o t a l .............................
7
3
I
I
2
5
2
100
- 24 re tiu m e d , 6n ljr one q u e s tio n was coitK iletely rmawei'e# fey a l l haeaew ek ifrs, »r. .ely, vh- t, e o n e e rn im ; the* =*)oumt @*6 k l m o f s ‘- i i a e « iu ip ra e « t
v & ila b le ,
Yhm I n s tr u c tio n s MMQMpaqRflag th e q u e s tio n n a ir e s c l re e le d
t h e hcmenuakers t o
r i t e n."i. p . ’’ (no answ er) i a the space provided, i f f o r any
re a so n th e y p r e f e r r e d n o t t o f u r n is h th e iu f o n u r t i n.
I n eoiae e-ases,
p aces » e re I f t b la n k by th e IiomeraetkAr s and th e mast, r o i such q u e stio n s
w-s th e n OfidtteA i n c a l m l a t I r^. p e rc e n ta g e s .
— 2jj —
RW LT5 ASD M SCOSSIOS
A o l t c a t I n o f H ntlng Seeile to th e Amotmt o f SewlBt S e r c r t ed tg HoK^m&kers.
TJse t i n * TB lues d e riv e d Dy th e u s e o f e e a le A and p re s e n te d i a
treble I
mr
tr.e f i r s t ,AeeaoremeBta a s s ig n e d to th e 4 J a r t i c l e s o f sewing
l i s t e d on th e rraer t i o i r e t i r e .
tim e v n l ,es r . n ,;"4 froei I to
(Ap en d lx A)
The BVerBf;* o f th e A ssigned
p o in ts &e recoil, ended by th e CKtoaittees
o f hotiieut k e rs rn d p r o f e s s io n a l licste e c o n o a d s ts, -3)to c o n s id e re d t h a t th e
Bmooat o f t i n e r e q u ir e d f o r making a t a i l o r e d s u i t -srould be & p ro x issa te ly
31 tim e s g r e a t e r th a n th e tim e r e q u ire d f o r hemming a sh ee t*
V alues f o r
o t h e r a r t i c l e s were computed by e lsd l& r o o tiiv .riso n s.
The n e x t assig n m e n ts o f v a lu e s were o b ta in e d by u sin g s c a le s
B and C an d a r e siut.«^-rlzed I n t a b l e I I .
These v a lu e# s e r e s im ila r to
!,hose a s s l a e d f o r th e tim e f a c t o r a s th e y ran g ed from one to 30 p o in ts
f o r s h e e ts and s u i t s . r e s p e c t i v e l y .
S e v e ra l ite m s t h t r e q u ir e d only p l a i n
s t r a i g h t B eslnfj -?ere g iv e n v a lu e s o f I t> o ln t, nm iely , s h e e t s , ol 11 o»-c- s e e .
to w e ls
nd d ia p e r s .
The l a s t two warned ite m s Jreqolre so l i t t l e work, t h a t
each was a s s ig n e d a v a lu e o f o n e - th ir d , b u t to a v o id any number l e s s th a n
one i n th e f i n a l s c o r e s , one dozen o f each o f th e s e a r t i c l e s W s g iv e n a
ru tin
of 4 p o in ts .
The a v e ra g e o f t h e th r e e v a lu e s o f I ) tim e , 2) s k i l l
i n p la n n in g and c u t t i n g , and 3) e M l l i n c o n s tru c t
n and f i t U n g was
u sed a s th e f i n a l s c o re f o r et c h ite m o f c lo th in g and h o u seh o ld t e x t i l e
f u r a l s h i n 3 and c o n s t i t u t e d th e o b je c tiv e r a t i n g s c a le by vtnieh th e amount
and k in d o f sew ing o f each homerA ker was m easured.
* s f o r exam ple, a
bpi ISMjilmr yho mad# a h o u se d r e s s a t 14 p o i n t s , ' n ap ro n ' t 7 p o in ts and a
. , a i r o f oaJauBs a t 12 p o i n t s , would have # t o t f d o Tin,
3Cor« o f 33 p o in ts .
*■» 26 —
IASLE I .
MOOHLT H i S UUtJKS * 53108?» TO TAflIOOS A T IGJ-IS OF » * S STWIW
BT COMMIHm OF HOMSMAEiHS *HD HOKS ECONOMISTS
in 882194104 m m & M .
1^3
A rtic le s
_____
JPJ& fJ*.__
By hoEus— % home
A v er_____econom ist a
'-^e
S n eet ........................................
P illo w ^ e e s , p a i r . . . .
Tow els, th r e e .......................
D ia p e rs, t h r e e .......................
S&pkin, p la c e c o v e r . . .
P a n tie s ....................................
B e d s p r e a d ...............................
B u n tin g ....................................
Apron ........................................
C o l l a r - c u t s s , d ic k e y . . .
G e rtru d e ...................................
P l a y - s u i t . . . ..................
Gown. . . . . ......................
S l i p ............................................
C u rta in s , d r a p e r ie s , p a i r .
I n f a n t 's W tn r o tc . . . .
B o y 's short.e. . . . . . .
S le e p e r s . . . . . . . . .
H L o u s e .s h irt..........................
J e r k i n ....................................
S k i r t ......................................
T a b le c l o t h . . . . . . .
q u i l t , e o u f o r te r ..................
I n f a n t 's d r e s s ......................
Juw per ......................................
p ajam as . . . . . . . . .
I n f a n t 's s h i r t - p a n t s s u i t
H ousecoat ...............................
R eapers . . . . . . . . .
S la c k s ....................................
H o u s e - d r e s s .................. .... .
T ro u s e rs . . . . . . . . .
I n f '^ a t 's c o a t .......................
J a c k e t .................. .... . . .
S h i r t ........................................
Formal d r e s s ...........................
Snow - s u it, s k i - s u i t .
A fte rn o o n d re s s . . . . .
C h a ir u p h o ls te r y ..................
S lip - c o v e r ........................... •
C oat . . ...............................
S u it .................................
•Assigned values equal
o f the a ctu al amount of time required.
- 27 TABLE I I .
VALUES ASSfOKED TO VARIOUS AHTI Cl,ES Of HOMB S lS I HO AHD THE
AfSBAOB -30051 OB "RATI>70 SCALl1 UEBIVSB KBDM THESE VALUES.
Bozeta&n, Kont n a , 1943.
Tim#
A rtic le s
S heet ................................... ...
P illo w c n .3 9 s,p a lr . . . ,
T ow els, th r e e . . . . . .
D ia p e rs, th r e e . . . . .
HspldLn,pl"-oe c o v e r. . . ,
Bedsn r e - i d ........................... ...
P a n t l e a .................. .... . .
B untinf'; . . . . . . . . .
T a b le - c lo tn ...................... ,
i u i l t , c o m fo rte r . . . . .
A pron
. ..............................
C oll a r - c u f f 3 , d le h e y . .
C re rfc ru d e ..............................
P l a y - s u i t ...........................
CtotfiBdn3, d r a p e r ie s , p a i r
I n f n n t 1S d r e s s . . . . .
I n f a n t *3 b a th ro b e . . . ,
B o y 's s h o r ts . . . . . .
I
I
I
I
I
3
2
3
5
5
3
3
3
4
5
4
4
6
4
ginned v a lu e s
Co n s tr u c tio n
P la n n l Hg
and
and
lttin ,?
I OuttlWK
I
1
I
1
I
1
1
I
I
1
4
5
6
4
4
5
10
3
8
R
9
9
9
9
9
12
13
13
13
13
9
9
9
11
12
13
lb
14
15
17
I?
17
17
Ifc
17
19
17
17
22
18
17
15
19
25
22
22
25
18
21
29
Average
Score
1
1
1
1
1
4
4
4
6
7
7
7
7
7
9
10
10
11
11
11
14
S le e p e r s ...............................
I?
16
3
G ow n......................................
12
16
5
S l i p .........................................
12
4
B lo u se , s h i r t ..........................
15
12
4
J e rk in . . . . . . . . .
15
12
15
J x s a p e r ...............................
5
12
14
*>
p * Jfir a s . ...........................
16
4
13
S k i r t .................. ....
In fa n t* e s h i r t - n a n t s e d t
13
17
5
5
17
13
H o u se-co at...........................
14
14
6
S la c k s .................. ....
14
18
b
H ouse-dregs . . . . . .
14
IJ
S
I n f a n t 1S c o s t . . . . .
14
18
9
SiM)» -s u .lt, g k l- s u i t
15
I
15
Jsd cet . . .. . . . . .
6
20
17
f r o n t ? e r « .................. .... .
I '
21
8
S h i r t ....................................
17
S
21
P o ro a l d r e s s . . . . . .
19
A fternoon d re s s . .
9
23
13
19
C h a ir u p h o ls te r y . . . .
26
21
lb
S lip o v e r ...........................
28
PB
27
C o a t ......................................
29
S u it _*_•_*—js—s—&. Ji..■*—S_____ 22
___ 3 i
A _____
a . A ssigned by e o u w ltte e s o f hmmmakers an d home econom ists I n B osnian,
M ontm a ( s e e T ab le I )
b . A ssig n ed by com m ittee o f home eco n o m ists.
..... ...................................................................................................................... ...........
.
fheB e *▼•***&• v a lu e s were u sed t o c a lc u la te th e e s tim a te d s m u n t
o f s e e in g r e p o r te d by 22% homemakers to e v a lw ite th e e x te n t o f t i i e l r see ­
in g a c t i v i t i e s .
W lUdn th e knowledge o f t h e p re s e n t I n v e s t i g a t o r th e re h a s
been no s im ila r measurement o f s e e in g such a s th e one u se d I n t h i s stu d y .
I n th e fo llo w in g ta tt.e e which show th e r e la tio n s h ip o f sewing
s c o re s to ce t a i n f a c t o r s , th e p e rc e n ta g e s g iv en e p ly o n ly to th e an s­
wers receiv ed , from 22% hosm oekers s in c e Uy f a i l e d to r e p o r t th e amount o f
seeing, done.
T w enty-seven o f th e s e Uy H ansr-iV ers in d ic a te d th e k in d o f
a r t i c l e s made b u t s e re u n a b le to e s tim a te tlie numb r .
T h e ir r e - o r t s d id
s ig n if y however t h a t I t was t h e i r custom to make a ,Id e v a r i e t y o f a r t i c l e s .
Twenty-two o f th e *$9 homemakers who d id n o t d e n o te e i t h e r t h e ty p e o r th e
number o f a r t i c l e s made p ro v e d th e y were doing some sewing by s t a t i n g i n
a n o th e r s e c tio n o f th ^ q u e s tio n n a ir e th e number o f h o u rs p e r week a l l o t t e d
to t h i s t a s k .
These Uy ham enskare e r e h e r e a f t e r r e f e r r e d to I n th e t a b l e s
a s a "no sc o re " g rc u p .
U la tr ib t i n
o f a v e ra g e y e a r ly sowing s c o re s
B ecause eorae homemakers r e p o r te d th e smmmt o f sew ing done f o r
o n e, tw o, t h r e e , o r f o u r o f t h e y e a rs (1940 th ro u g h iyU 3 ) th e t o t a l sco re
f o r each w s re d u c ed
p a m b le f i g u r e .
to a ye r l y a v erag e a s a more m ean in g fu l and co<.=-
The a v e ra g e s c o re f o r a l l homemakers w&g fo u n d to be 1S5
p o i n t s , t : i d e I I I , and ra n g in g from zero to 1104 p o in ts .
a
T h is sco re r e p r e s e n ts
ro x lm ate ly two h o u rs o f Sewinti; tim e p e r week ex cl s iv e o f mending
tim e . (T a b le XI)
-PgI1AJB1K I I I .
BI» H tm n o * Of AilBAUK T tfiM Z SSWIflRI SCORES RO2 22?
HOFKMAmtS* BOZTHAB. MOKEAKA l # ]
HO.
S co res
IiOBiwnakaya________ _____ __________ rJCMea
p e t.
Average
1100 - 1199
I
.4
1104
1 0 0 0 - 1099
I
.4
1020
Hmge
900 -
999
I
A
924
SOO -
699
I
.4
843
fOO -
799
2
.9
Tlb
710 - 722
600 -
t>99
4
1 .8
fe53
635 - 670
500 -
>99
5
2 .2
525
502 - 588
coo -
#99
S
3 .5
499
% g - 498
300 -
399
17
7 .5
341
303 - 397
200 -
299
36
1 5 .8
253
2 0 0 -2 9 8
100 -
199
5b
2 4 .7
147
103 - 199
00 -
99
95
41 .8
51
227
T o ta ls
♦ Mo sc o re
100
165
%
0
1
•
0 - 1104
#9
t o show th e ty p e s o f a r t i c l e s m ost coixionly med» I n th e home, a
d i s t r i b u t i o n o f th e 185 p o in ts m s made by tlie I n v e s t i g a t o r . ( Toble I i )
G azaeaits f o r g i r l s and women re p re s e n te d th e l a r g e s t imiaber o f ite m s on
th e q u e s tio n n a ir e and acocnstod f o r 69 p e r c e n t o f »11 garm ents made t y th e
lo c a l women.
House d r e s s e s , s le e p in g g arm en ts end a p ro n s were th e Item s
-
a o s t o f te n made.
30-
T hese s ta te m e n ts c lo s e ly p a r - l l e l th e r e s u l t s shown I n
p re v io u s s t u o i e s . (9 ) (28)
I n f a n t s garm ent* have a cc o u n te d f o r o n ly 7
p e rc e n t o f th e ty p i c a l s c o r e , h u t t a b l e VI shows th a t o n ly 5 p e rc e n t o f th e
c h ild r e n in c lu d e d i n t h i s s tu d y were l e s s th a n th r e e y e a r s o f ag e.
TABhK I f .
KtfWBIH AHD KIHD OF AHTICLKS OCMP Rl SI NO AWXAOK TRAidT SIVINO
SCOBIS o r HfWlMAKKSS. BOZiMAS, WONfARA 1 ^ 3
G irls
and
women
A rtic le s
of
sewing
Apron
B louse
C o lla r - c u f f s o r
Dickey
C u r ta in s , D ra p e rie s
D iapers
D ress
A ftern o o n
House
Jteaper
Rapldtb , o r
P la c e c o v er
P ajaaR s
P illo w c a se s
S h e e ts
S k ir t
S le e p e rs
T oeel
. K IM i-O f a r t i c l e s .
B o y s,
I n f e n ta
and
House­
h o ld
men
14
12
2
I
I
I
I
2
I
19
28
12
I
2
I
2
p e t , o f t o t a l s cor e
69______
2
7
2
JL
26
11
I
11
2
36
2
T o ta l No.
7
9
2
fc
I
T o ta l
score
12
4
17
185
IH__________ I ________ 10__________ 100
Sotaa Ffcctora e ffe c tin g : Hoiaetaakers sew ing S co res
A r to r tlo n o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e was devoted to th e lo c a t io n o f
f a n i l l e e :mn
t t x i a o f th e members to p ro v id e a background f o r u n d e rsta n d ­
in g some o f th e s i t u a t i o n s which sdt^fc be re s p o n s ib le f o r a f f e c t i n g th e
31
« o u n i Sad k in d o f sew ing.
f ABLB f .
DISTMHJTlON 0 ? MXlLI&S BT CITT B ISfSItJTSe AXB RmKMAXKitS
AlfSWSHIHS tgJESTIOmiAIHE. BOKBfAH. HOHTA^ 1 ;4 3
F a m ilie s
O lty d i s t r i c t s * *
South
South
Ho
east
w est
a d d re s s
id v e n
N orth
w est
N orth
e&st
503
644
1247
461
34
20
140
22
T o ta l
Ho.o f
f K a lli e s
Mo. o f hcaaeanlcere
insw erln,
q u e st ioan-drv
riC t. d i s t r i ­
b u tio n o f
2 /b q u e s tio n n a l r e s **
12**3
I .*
8.0
50.7
2855
22
8.0
235
1X5
* O iv la lo a n o l n t a , M ala S tr e e t and T racy AvMme
** 35 r u r a l homemakers a c c o u n tin g f o r 13*8 p e r c e n t o f 276 q u e s tio n n a ir e s .
D la trltr u tI n o f f ^ i i l l e a to c i t y d i s t r i c t s
Tnrotxgh th e u s e o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e , Iafom.*?t t o a xr&e o b ta in e d
from 27 b h a a e a e k e re r e s id in g i n o r n e a r Bose,aa,M on a n a .
238 *ere u rb a n and JS r u r a l h o m e irk e ra .
O f t h i s nuu&er
I t was I n t e r e s t i n g to n o te th e
p e rc e n ta g e o f BoseriSa f a w ilie * re p re s e n te d £y t h i s s tu d y and how th e s e
u rb a n f r i l l i e s were d i s t r i b u t e d in f o u r c i t y d i s t r i c t s . (T a b le f )
The c i t y
d ir e c to r y f o r l$ b 2 l i s t e d B nproxiiB aiely 2855 f a m ilie s &nd i s th e l a t e s t
a v a ila b le c en su s th? t can be u s e d .
The nwi bsr o f u rb a n hcm eaukere answ er­
in g th e qu s t l o n .. i r e r e p r e s e n t 8 .3 p r s e n t o f Uv 28$5 fa m ilie s *
T se n ty -
t so hotuemskers f s d i e d to in d i c a t e U xeir a d d re s s e s b u t i t was n sso a e d t h a t
th e y re a i:ie d w ith in th e c i t y l i m i t s .
The m a jo r ity (174) o f th e f a m ilie s
?A *,S
VX ,
3«HTRTTIr* OP IMIlLT MWJKte MT M : AiiB STATVSf
Motiier
F u tn e r
JWftttg, te„IrfWMjr,
Ifc^yOtojf3
Sons
tie rs
Sc. p o t.
HO. n o t.
Ho. p o t .
bj-ov- r
36-iK)
31-35
26.31
19-25
I > 13
7-12
ti- 6
122
*k)
24
% 15
25 10
5
13
lt>7 6$
Pb U
2q 10
Age o?
DMSSK
PO
S
8
3
O- 3
Tot I s
’ tit.o f 2t/'
SI*
100
245
23
* UMetf 021 ..rv-^.rs r«»cetvfd f m
'fo. p e t.
I
P
4
5
31
/5
?b
31
35
2
P
12
89
2)
12
:4
4
3
36
151
63
?3
25
I
2
12
49
PO
S
B
100
P%’$ 10f,
J>9 100
pp
23
27
<bb IxwueLAkQi o.
DOtifiAM, StiHrAni
Mftle
So. Ot.
3 25
1 S
I
8
3 25
2 17
S
I
I
IP
f H ftlf
HO. r o t .
17
6
13
I
*»3
15
33
P
9
IOC
I
fa ta l
Ho. p e t
310 2?
92 «
74 ?
55 5
#
S
24o a
140
IP
55
5
63
b
3
7
40
loo
IlZ S 100
4
100
— 33CO-Q ;w r itin g I n t h i s s tu d y l i v e d i n th e w e ste rn p a r t o f th e c i t # and w ith
th e g r e a t e s t c o n c e n tr a tio n ( I 1IO) l a th e southw est s e c tio n which i s adj^tcent
t o th e Mont mn
t& te C o lle g e on 4>»a.
Ti i s was < t l y due t o th e f a c t t h a t
more women i n t h i s s e c tio n a tte n d e d o rg a n iz e d group m e e tin g s such &s th e
ones th ro u g h which th e i n v e s t i g a t o r et de ioftay o f h r c o n t a c t s .
2Jb f a m ilie s have b e n c l a s s i f i e d a s l i v i n g i n Bozeoan a s th e 3?
A ll o f th e
ru ra l
families who l i v e i n 6 r p e a r th e v i c i n i t y o f Bozeman have t h i s c e n te r a s
t h e i r m ailin g a d d re s s and send t h e i r cfeildJNB to th e Bozesen s c h o o ls.
D is tr i b u t io n o f membe r s by age 'P d s t a t u s I n f ^ i l y
f i t s a v e ra g e e l s e o f th e f a m i l i e s was 4 .2 4 members an d th e r e f o r e
I t sms assumed th t th e t y p i c a l fa m ily c o n s is te d o f m o th er, f a t h e r and two
c h ild r e n .( T a b le VI)
The f i g u r e s a r e b ased upon answ ers re c e iv e d from 266
fftw ili- s U3 10 heewmalBMrs f a i l e d to su p p ly t h i s in fo rm a tio n .
Since a
h ig h p r o p o r tio n o f th e a d u lt* were o v e r 36 y e a r s o f a g e , ln e lu a in g ft) p e r ­
c e n t o f th e m o th ers and 79 p e r c e n t o f th e f a t h e r s , i t was n a tu r a l to
f i n d few young c h ild r e n r e p r e s e n te d .
T w en ty -six p ercen t o f th e sons and
l b p e r c e n t o f th e d a u g h te rs were u n d er s ix y e a r s o f a g e a s compared w ith
39 p e rc e n t o f th e so n s and 4'r> p e rc e n t o f th e d a u g h ters I n th e 13 to IS year-:.. ,e g ro u p s .
Many m o th ers o f v e ry young c h ild r e n a r e o f te n u n a b le to
a t t e n d group m e etin g s and few o f theta were in te rv ie w e d .
The d i s t r i b u t i o n
o f n e a r ly o n e - h a lf o f th e q u e s tIonzv i r e s th ro u g h th e lo c a l h i # school home
econoadca c l a s s e s (A ppendix D) p a r t i a l l y a cc o u n t a f o r th e h ig h p e rc e n ta g e
o f 13 to 1 8 -y e a r-o ld d a u g h te rs .
B ecause o f th e wording; o f th e q u e s tio n n a ir e s h id h u s e d th e term
S tother r o th e r th a n ho; em sker, th e 4 p e rc e n t o f "oUw-r" f e R le s in c lu d e s
-
-
s e v e r a l ygruvi homemakers w ith o u t c h ild r e n .
T h ere ees a homemaker I n each
o f th e f a l l i e s w hether she wes m o th e r, young w ife, o ld e r d a u g h te r, o r
g randasether.
sew ing aco r e q ,I n .r e l a t i o n to s iz e o f fa m ily
I n g e n e r a l, th e a v e ra g e sew ing s c o re o f th e homemaker te n d s to
in cre ase w ith th e s iz e o f th e fa m ily , a lth o gh sn e x c e p tio n h a s been n o te d
f o r th e e ig h t member f a m i l i e s , ( t H e ¥11)
Whes th e re c o rd s were dieoked
f o r t h i s group i t m s found t h r t i n each e a s e th e r e was some p e rso n o th e r
th a n th e hosaeasker doing a p a r t o r a l l o f th e home sew ing.
However, one
homemaker i n t h i s grou?) r e p o r te d a n a v e ra g e o f I ? h o u rs p e r week d ev o ted to
sew in , b u t i d l e d to r e p o r t th e a c tu a l -.mount o f sew ing acoom rdished and
i t was im p o s sib le to g iv e h e r a sew ing s c o r e .
A m a jo r ity o f th e 13 to l t '- y e r - o l d d a u g h te rs were i n th e I a r g r
f a m ilie s and many o f them were ta k in g home economic a i n th e ju n i o r o r
s e n io r h ig h a tim o ls and v e ry l i k e l y doing s«ae o f th e home sew in .
0 * S rie n and Cam pbell (28) a ls o found t h a t more garm ents were made a s th e
number o f members I n th e f a ta lly in c re a s e d .
A ftlation o f Sewin:; .c o re s t o
fa m il y incom e.
'a o ily Iaoome and Husband* s D e c e p tio n
A r e l a t i v e l y l a r g e p e rc e n t (90 p e r c e n t) o f th e
homek'drers f u n d - l i e d in fo rm a tio n on th e fa m ily incom e, a lth o u g h t h i s
q u e s tio n was o p tio n a l.
I n f i g u r in g th e a v e ra g e fa m ily incom e, th e
m id- o in t o f th e $1000 i n t e r v a l s was u sed and th e a v e ra g e income ^ee
round to b e $2951.h i .
(T a b le ¥111)
T h is seems to b e a h ig h av erag e
f o r a COffli.u n ity so l i t t l e a f f e c t e d by w ar-tim e i n d u s t r i e s .
However, th e
TABLH H I .
HGHSHAms SHHW SOOltK-3 IR m m o n TO SIZR OF FAMILY*
B e z m i f , MGtrrAHA 1943
F a e U ie s
p e t . OI
to ta l
sewing, s c o re s
A verage
Range
I
.4
69
9
4
1 .8
554
137 - 670
8
8
3 .5
223
31 - 722
7
13
5*7
336
% -1104
6
10
4 .4
323
lb -1020
5
37
1 6 .3
220
4
7b
33.5
158
0 - 513
3
39
1 7 .2
151
14 - 514
2
35
1 5 .4
118
4
1 .8
254
84 - b49
185
O -1104
Rot g iv e n
T o ta ls
227
100
06
I
10
0
1
HO.
0
1
(5
S is e
* Ho s c o re - 49 boom m ker*
s i z e o f th e renalI y income whs re q u e ste d end i n Bsyngr c a s e s th e r e was more Uion
one H-Ht,* e a r n e r i n th e fa m ily .
S e v e n ty -s e re .t, o r PS p e rc e n t o f n i l th e
homatuek^rs c o n tr ib u te d to t h e i r f a . i t Iy incom es th ro u g h o u ts id e employment.
I n 6 p e rc e n t o f th e c a s e s th e r e was no f a t h e r to c o n tr ib u te to th e ineoiae.
Bughand1S oo c u p a tio a .
The c l a s s i f i c a t i o n o f o c cu p a tio n * i s a
c o n d e n sa tio n o f th e l i s t p ro v id e d i n th e U n ited S ta te s D - rtB^ent o f Labor
D ic tio n a ry o f O c cu p a tio n a l T i t l e s (4b) which in c l d eg the- fo llo w in g d i v is io n s :
I ) pro*e ss irn & l and m a n a g e ria l. ?) c l e r i c a l >nd s a le s , 3) service.
— 3& **
4) s k i l l e d and s e m i- s k ille d , 5) u n s k ille d .
6) e tu d e ir-'
n,. pefclr--d.
Vtotu
t e tn f o t o ..Li n v o lu n te e r 4 ty tn e K -HMtcJfcers o t Aoaenan, * h ig h p e r c e n ts ®
o r th e hasbfenda were found to be i n Uie p r o f e s s io n a l and a aa n s^ e rla l c la s s
4 tli incomes ra a g la g from $1000 to $50CX) :nd o v e r.
ProK- Uly th e f e e t t e a t
a lt.r g e aomber o f th e f a m i l i e s were r e p r e s e n te d from Uie c o lle g e d i s t r i c t
s o c a u n ts f o r th e h ig h p r o p o r tio n o f p r o f e s s io n a l mea.
I t was n o te d t h a t I
o f th e 22 f a 4 1 1 e s i n th e h ig h e s t income group were engaged i n a g r i c u l t u r e .
B oseuen i s th e sho
in#; c e n te r o f a p r e f e r one a g r i c u l t u r a l vr llesy »nd
d u rin g tV-T-times farm In c im e a r e r e l a t i v e l y M f h .
By u s in g th e Income a s th e s o le b a s i s f o r conpar i s e n o f sewing
a c o r e s , th e h ig h e s t aveange s c o re (2 ]2 p o in ts ) a? e a r s
t t h e $1
O to $1)99
l e v e l i n which a r e ln n lu d e d one t h i r d o f a l l hom usk- r s en p lo y ed o u ts id e t h e
ft -SM. (T a b le IK)
'4 999 l e v e l .
The lo w e st a v e ra g e s c o re s (ID l) a n e a r a t th e 'HO'K) to
So u n i f o t o i t y e x i s t s i n th e re la tic n e M r; betw een th e fa m ily
In cw ie and th e homeitifcers s e n ln
sco res.
-however, th e r e I s a tendency
f o r th e h ig h e r sewing s c o r e s to S npeor a t th e low er income l e v e l s .
In
P eB rle n and G arspbelV e stu d y (2 8 ) th e women who s e r e .adding th e g r e a te s t
numb-r o f (prm ent# were i n t h e $2000 to $2999 Sfov •
In th e c u r r e n t
s tu d y th e h ig h e s t a v e ra g e sew ing s c o re Iy o c c u p a tio n a l e l a g a i f i c a tio n
o f th e huobn I s was a t t a i n e d by th e «<4P ie n ltu r « l
to
.
O th e r seeing;
s c o r e s f o r ooctv a t l o n a l c la s s e s a -pe-.r i n d e c re a s in g o rd e r us fo llo w s :
2) s e r v ic e .
3) u n s k i l l e d ,
6) c l e r i c a l and s a l e s ,
and
4)
s k ille d ,
/ ) a tu d o n ts
5)
p r o f e s s io n a l a n a E in iK eerlal.
d re tire d ,
fh e ru ral
TABLE n i l
*
DISTHiaJTION 0» SAMlLTtS BT INCOME AND OGOWPATIOK. BOXS*AI, MOTTARA 19*3
P r o fe s ­
s io n a l
fa m ily
and
LAnageIncome
ria l
$5(X>)-orer
11
*000-4999
15
3000-7999
37
2 W 0 -Z & 9
23
3
1000*1999
OtXU 999
Bot g iv e n
13
T o ta l wo.
102
p e t . o f t o t a l 37
.SSwTfaUaM
s tu S k il le d UaB k llle d dents
and
and
semi­
re ­
s k ille d
tire d
No
hus­
band
Net
g iv e n
I
I
10
3
2
2
2
I
10
4
I
A g ri­
c u ltu r e
end
fo r­
e s try
10
S
10
7
9
4
4
19
IS
52
40
7
6
17
15
7
6
19
19
3
2
6
5
C le r­
ic a l
and
a -ie s
S er­
v ic e
I
I
2
3
I
3
20
12
2
2
3
5
* Source o f C la a sifio n is Ion I 1939 Dtctloaary of O o a t : a t lo tta l T i t l e s
. s . Detit. o f Labor and
-
3
7
4
I
T o ta l
I
2
4
I
5
2
No. n e t .
22
6
29 I l
99 a
28
i8
49 18
4
11
2g 10
27b
100
P a r t II
. UMpioymenl S e r r i oe. ^ a i t i a e t o n . q. C.
I1ABLK
IX
F sed ly
lngmgfli
,
|)ISTJiIHJtIOS OF SOTIfRi SCOBKS ITf HSLATIOS TO FAMILY IHCOfif AnD TrL1SMHD1S ' CCUTAt IOH
Bom 1AR1 MOITrARA 1943
HttBbenAH ooeupaU on
F r o fe e - C le r ic a l S e rv ic e A g ric o lt- S k ille d FnS tudent Hot
o re and
slo n ttl and
and S=KtS- s k i l l e d and
g iv e n
fo re s try s k ille d
re tire d
ana
s a le s
Littnage
Sumo&ry
ria l
t t ' Is*
10
I
9 p et,
9
S o .o f c a s e s
A verage
257
s c o re
101 .
2
6
I
S o .o f e a s e s
13
$*KKX)-4999 Average
225
s c o re
131
.239
173
2
8
I
I
I
H o.o f e a s e s
35
$3000-3999 Average
131
257
12b
steore
... 132 _.... .
149.
59
ll
2
Ib
H o.o f oases
7
7
7
$2000-2999 A verage
1?2 ...
193
243
.1 2 8
95
s c o re
.139
4
ho . o f o#ses
9
9
3
3
3
$1000-199.* A verage
429
334
152
190
227
PbS
so o rf
4
I
H o.o f o a se s
I
$ OOO- 993 A verage
s<io r e
1 0 6 ......
I 67
............221
g
4
I
Ho.o f c a se s
7
Hot g iv e n A verage
156
m
sco re
.1 3 .......
355
48
28
7
15
83
14
R a.o f Cttrtie
6
12
21
3
F c i . o f Ottees
7
37
1255
210
.
154
221
A verage sc o re s
251......
ill
_
12
29
4
7
5
P c t . o f t o t a l s e e in g s c o re K>
•He s c o re - Mg howsm&kers
SbGOQ-over
I
25
67
2
178
11 p e t.
54
4
151
22 p e t.
•
2
2b5
4
174
2 7 oct.
70
3
271
10
165
2 " p e t.
121
210
3
232
4 p c t.
200
2
195
7 pot.
i?
26
11
202
12
233
227
100
1 5 5 .3
100
T ~
3
88
I
TASUE
X.
DIST BI BUT; OB OB KMPLOYKU ABD BOH-SffLOTXD BfMMAKKKS BT SXMBG SOOHES •
BozifMAH, HOHTABA 1943
T u ll-Iia e
Sevdag
s c o re s
Ho.
e t.
1100-1199
1000-1099
900 - 999
800- 899
700- 799
600- 699
500- 59 )
W o- 499
330- B i
POO- 299
1 00- 199
00- 99
3
3
7
8
19
.4
1 .4
1 .4
3.1
3 .5
6 .3
T o ta ls
44
1 9 .3
I
I
I
I
.4
.4
.4
O u tsid e en elerm en l
P a r t- lim e
Ho*
p e l.
T o ta l
Mo.
I
I
I
.4
.4
.4
I
3
9
7
.4
1 .4
4 .1
3 .1
I
I
2
I
2
3
4
10
17
2b
23
1 0 .2
67
A verage
sco ran
209
903
* Ho sco re - 49 hom m akers
p e t.
He o u ts id e em­
ploym ent
....JlS1A ,.,JlC lf____
I
----------.4
I
.4
.4
.8
.4
,6
1 .4
1 .8
4 .5
7 .6
1 1 .4
3
3
5
13
26
39
69
1 .4
1 .4
2 .2
5.7
11.5
173 0 .3
Ho.
I
I
I
I
2
4
5
8
17
3b
56
95
9 9 .5
160
70.5
227
176
■
Grand
to ta l
185
n e t.
.4
.4
A
.8
1 .8
2.2
3 .6
7.5
1 6 .0
2 4 .8
41.7
100
hoi !thinkers a r e in c lin e d to spend s l i g h t l y more tim e in sew ing th a n th o s e
i n u rb a n a r e a s which rii.rlit g iv e them a h i t t e r sew ing s c o r e .
I t wee d e s ir e d to d eterm in e th e combined e f f e c t o f fa m ily income
and o c c u p a tio n on th e aimount o f sew ing, b u t th e r e s u l t s a r e n o t con­
c lu s iv e becau se o f th e few c a s e s oeuu.rH a#-, i n m ost o f th e c a te g o r ie s .
-lo v e d iio, .q iiak ers. The sewing s c o re s f o r homemakers employed
o u ts id e th e home were i n g e n e ra l h ig h e r th a n th e s c o re s o f th o se non-em­
p lo y e d . (T a b le X) I n a n a ly s in g th e q u e s tio n n a ir e s shoving s c o re s o f 500 o r
more n o ia ty , i t
m# seen t h a t seven homemakers h ad Bmloyraent o u ts id e th e
home As cozT :r e d w ith e ig h t h a v in g no such emploj»#-iit.
I t h a s been n o te d
i n t a b l e XI t h a t a s l i g h t l y (g re a te r amount o f tim e sets d e v o ted to sewing by
th e women h a v in g work i n a d d itio n to t h e i r ham eaaklng.
Aiaannt and d i s t r i b u t i o n o f sew ing tim e by p l oyed
n, noiv-e
lowed Izw,'-makers
The homemakers s e re re q u e s te d to in d i c a t e th e m saber o f h o u rs p e r
seek t h a t were a l l o t t e d to sewing and th e dlB >rlbu.tlv.n o f t h z t tim e i n mendI n , making; new ^.aiia- n s e o r a r t i c l e s f o r th«# h o u seh o ld , o r making renovated,
a r t i c l e s , a s a means o f com paring th e sew ing s c o re s w ith th e sao u n t o f tim e
d e v o ted to sew ing.
I t m s fo u n d tlv d 209 Wmmrnkwrs m .ent a n a v erag e o f U.07
h o u rs p e r week on sew ing w ith a p p ro x im a te ly On^-I1-JLf o f t h a t tim e re q u ire d
f o r mending. (T a b le XI)
The tim e a p p o rtio n e d t o sewing uoes no t seem to
v a ry g r e a tly b e ca u se o f o u ts id e work o f th e h o aa a k e r , a s i t was n o te d t h a t
th o s e honemf-ikers hnvint o u ts id e employment sp en t s l i g h t l y more tim e i n sew­
in g th a n tlio^e t-aving no suc/i employment.
h e f a c t t l / t usny o f th e
e ip lo y e d hoiaetiakers seem to do more s a v in g th a n tlio ae n o t g a i n f u l l y em­
p lo y e d m ight s u b s t a n t i a t e th e c o n te n tio n t h ' t many hom m #kers work o u t-
-
4i -
s id e the home because of the necessity to soppleuent the family Income,
o r it may IndlCBte tliat outside eorfc r e q u ir e s o r r e s u l t s In a s u p e r io r
oanngeBMsnt of time,
TABLK XI.
AMOW AlIU BI STMSUTI DB 0 ? SKMSG fIMS KOR KMPLOTtU AHD SOHMPLOYP D HfMSMAKKSS. IOZl-MA*, W O S fk M 1943
E x ten t
Of aSBP lo y ment
T o ll-tim e
p a r t- ti m e
Sone
A verage
MomeHJBke rs
(209)
Ko.
I
28
140
Average
sewing
tim e p e r
;,eek
H rs .
4 .1
4 .2
3 .9
4.07
D is tr ib u tio n o f sewing tim e f o r
Kwtiding
RenoKea g a r - HeueeV Btloa m eats
h o ld
eew lna
C
t.
:c
t.
.
re t.
10
6o
15
15
12
28
21
>9
24
Ug
19
_____ 1 _
22
Ife
49
_____L L .
The homemaker# o f Bozeman in c lu d e d I n t h i s stu d y re p o rte d l e s s
aver=!, e tim e f o r home s e e in g th a n was r e p o r te d by c e r t a i n o th e r Bonw ickers
o f M ontana.
M chardaon ( 32) fou n d t$ K t 48 hoiamiaker# i n r u r a l a re a s o f
Mont -n& arerc^^ed 6 h o u rs and 5 a d n u te a p e r o e # : f o r sew lu
and mending.
R a s tle an d O orton (2 1 ) s t a t e d t h a t th e amount o f s w i n g accom plished by
th e r u r a l homemakers exceeded t h a t o f th e u rb a n hcm anaker#.
One hundred
and s ix ty -s e v e n B ozw an homemakers in d ie t e d t h a t th e amount o f see in g
th e y d id was l l e i l t e d b ecause o f la c k o f tim e f o r t h i s h o u seh o ld ta s k ,
nnd many v o lu n te e re d th e l n f o m ^ t l o a t h a t d u rin g th e cm r e n t p e rio d , tliey
s e r e d e v o tin g a c o n s id e ra b le amount o f tim e to war work.
The homeiiskers were ask ed I f th e y h ad r e g u la r w eekly o r seaso n al
a ir s f o r sew ing.
K lg h ty o n e p e rc e n t o f th e
women f u r n is h in g t h i s
l n f o r m t l n d id t h e i r sew ing i r r e g u l a r l y o r a s th e need a ro s e ,a lth o u g h
SiBny o f them t r i e d to In c lu d e some sew ing f o r each week.
- 42 Hoiitartsioers ag a l a t -tn t a .
$ ig h * y -sev en o f th e Ii taeuakers had
n a s i Tt nce e l t i t t h e i r h o u seh o ld ta s k s which r e le a s e d more tim e f o r seein g
/ h l l e 95 o f Uie women e t' te d t h a t th e r e ana some me. b r In th e f -rally who
a s s i s t e d w it
th e sew ing.
b o th ty p e s o f h e lp .
F ifty -tw o o f th e s e eaiae h memakere re p o rte d
Of th e 10 homemaker# w ith th e h ig h e s t -nvera^e y e a r ly
s e e in g s c o r e s o f 795 p o i n t s , a l l b a t one h ad h e lp and o f th e 10 w ith th e
lo w e st a v e ra g e sew ing s c o re s o f 12 p o in ts , seven had no h e l .
The t y es
o f h e lp r e c e iv e d from th e a s s i s t a n ts a s re rio rte d by th e 95 h mmm&kers were
am fo llo w i
30 were .aking t h e i r own c lo th in g , 25 a s l a t e d
40 a id e d i n m is c e lla n e o u s ways In c lu d in g
I t h raenddng,
f i t t i n g , f i n i s h i n g o f hems,
handwork, ■nd c u ttin g *
'f f ^ o t p f t a Afipunt and L o c a tio n o f dewing ^ c u i ment on th e
/.Mnunt Jid k in d o f sewing e a u i.m e n t.
z t e n t o f Se w in
The m o u n t o f equipment a v a i l ­
a b le to th e h s« iia k -:r i s a f c t o r which must b e c o n sid e re d ^ e n stu d y in g
t h e e x te n t o f th e heraerackears sew ing a c t i v i t i e s .
l o c a l homemakers ln d lc t e s
n e c e s s a ry sewlm
The d r ta se c u re d from th e
t h a t p r a c t i c a l l y a l l a re s u p p lie d w ith th e
equipm ent.
(T-=He X II)
E ig h ty -n in e p e rc e n t o f th e s e
homemakers had sou# ty p e o f sew ing m achine A l c h I s tlie m ost import= a t
s i n g l e I t m o f eq lrm e n t, and f i f t y p e r c e n t had a ^ tr c ir ie n ts f o r th e m ach in es.
I n th e s tu d ie s t y O’B rie n and Caeffbell (2 8 ,
'fard (35 .
nd h a s t I e and
G orton (2 1 ) , th e number o f women owning m achines from 90 to 95 p e rc e n t
which I s s l m l l r to th e p e rc e n t/ g e o f Boaeman Irm m e k e rs o a n ln g m achines.
Tne In c re ne, s in c e 1927» l a th e nomb r o f h msi^d&^rs owning m otor
pow er m sahlnes I s n o tic e a b le a s O’ B rie n and Ca** b e ll ze o r te d o n ly
t W Mty-Xive
p e rc e n t o f th o s e
homemakers
A c were l i v i n g I n
c itie s
-
TABLK
XU
.
43
-
KlHOS Of StWlHG SQXlPWSHT OWHlfi BI 2%b HOWSWAKEHS
BOZWH, MOHTAHA
1943
K ind o f
equipment
HomearJccr9 ognlng equipment
Ho.
r.c t._______
M aehinea
I . tre a d le
2 . S l e c t r i o p o r ta b le
3 . H le e tr lo c a b in e t
131
b5
60
47
20
22
A ttachm ents
142
51
Sm all SqMlmeaS C o n ta in e r
I . S eeing M t
P. s e e in g c a b in e t
133
S3
47
30
S heors
I* B eg u lar c u t t i n g
2 . Em broidery
3. B u tto n h o le
4 . P ln M n e
260
85
77
73
94
31
28
26
Hesamres
I . T a p e lln e
2 . Ito ler
I . Y a rd s tic k
4 . T a i l o r 's sq u are
2 bb
203
201
11
%
?4
73
4
M arkers
I . T a i l o r 's c h a lk
?* T r cln g wheel
3. S M rt msxrksr
100
25
93
,
30
J
34
IroniBf^ b o a rd s
I . P o r ta b le
2 . s ta tio n - r y
231*
44
%
16
Iro n s
I . M on^regulated
2 . R eg u lated
3. Steam
13Ib
27
71
2
M isc e lla n e o u s
I . P r e s s in g c u sh io n s
? , M irro r
3 . fire s 9 form
22
152
17
B
55
b
74
-W o f iJODO to 10,000
ioptd tL on tuid a c t o r po e r systKilaes a s coxap^rod w ith
47 p e rc e n t i n t h i s s tu d y .
TABLH X III.
BlSfBIHJTIOir OI BBTO tttilS BI SRKIlti # W * m ? ASB SIWIW
SCOBKS. SOXKtfAH, XOBTAiA
1943
K quipsent
S c o re s
HO.
90 - 100
SO - 89
70 - n
dot 69
5 0 -5 9
4 0 -4 9
30-39
2o - ?9
10 - 19
0 9
I
24
75
86
4S
6
7
14
10
0
T o t a ls
276
Howewakera__________ ________ S eein g sco re*
P e t.
Aversge
Range
.4
6-7
28 .2
31.2
1 7 .4
3 .0
2 .5
5 .0
3 .b
.0
100
96
83
n
66
57
45
33
24
lb
0
80 - 8 ?
7n - 79
hO - 69
5 0 -5 9
4 0 -4 8
3 0 -3 9
21 - 28
10 - 19
0 - 0
b3
1 0 -9 6
I n o r n e r t h a t more a d e q u a te nonpar!eo n s c o u ld h e made o f th e amount end k in d
o f s e e in g equipm ent o w e d by th e homemaker a « s c o re s were g iv e n t o each item
a
e a r in g on th e q u e s tiean;:.!r e by u s in g s c a l e 0.
t etfcods)
The c o m d tte e
o f p r o f e a s i o i ^ l home econom ist a a id e d i n th e aeeigam ent o f s c o r e v a lu e s .
A ll s e e in g m a ch in es, w h eth er t r e a d l e o r e l e c t r i c were g iv e n » s c o re o f J )
oim t 3 w ith an a d d i t i a m l 10 p o in ts i f th e y were re p o rte d to b e i n good
o rk in g o r d e r ,
i t was a r b i t r a r i l y d e cid e d t h s t a iaschine i n good w orking
o r d e r was w orthy o f w ore p o in ts th&n one i n a p o o r c o n d itio n because o f th e
added convenience snd e f f ic ie n c y to th e hoisetaaker.
when th e s c o re s o f
each ite m o f equipm ent were m p l i e d to th e r e c o rd s o f 2Jb howaa&kers. I t
was found t h a t th e a v e ra g e equipm ent s c o re was b j p o in t? , which sxnuld l i k e l y
be composed o f s c o r e s f o r th e fo llo w in g ite m s , s e e in g m ach in e, k i t , s h e a r s ,
t
e mear. i r e s . I r o n s and ir o n in g b o a rd s and a I rg e o r m i l - l e n g t h m ir r o r .
- ¥> -
M l e a owe o f th e equipm ent f o r atilcli s c o re s a e re g iv e n I e n o t c o n sid e re d
a e e s s e n t i a l to sew ing. I t does c o n tr ib u te to th e e f ile le n e y w ith which
th e sewing',
TABM XIV.
h e accoracrillahed.
OISTHJB TIO* Of *381KAJCP:BS BT HPM. fT Ajm 81'.WlIto 3COKKS IN
HOATl 9 TO FAMILY 11CW®* BOZINA*, MOW AgA I j h )
F am ily ln o an e
Amount
$5000-over
NOOO-M999
9000-3999
2000-2999
1000-199>
OOO- 999
Hot g iv e n
3.
22
?9
99
73
49
11
28
276
T o ta ls
T--m lpuent scores.
/w ertige
Ho.
Answers
22
<r>9. *
6 5 .0 3
29
64.9b
59
60.15
78
6 1 .4 2
49
11
6 2 .7
2S
SewlRi s c o re s
Awerege
Po.
Answers
~TW ~
PO
151
25
174
5?
61
lb 5
232
44
195
9
232
lb
276
227
185
* No s c o re - 4 ) inaueiKikers
Nlien th e equipm ent fend sew ing s c o r e s were compared w ith th e
Income o f th e fa m ily i t wee found t h a t l i t t l e r e la tio n s h ip e x isted , betw een
th e =SKitmt c f th e I n c c te end th e s c o re s f o r equipm ent. (T nM e xlV)
-rite
a v e ra g e e q u ip a e a t s c o re s ran g ed o n ly from 60 t o St) p o in ts f o r a l l Income
g ro u p s .
Ilte th re e -w ay co arv -riso n o f sewing; and equipment s c o re s and th e
f SAiily la a c u e shows t h a t th e $1000 to $1999 in co u e group hawing th e h ig h e s t
a e o in .; s c o re had n e x t to th e lo w e st equipment sco re fend th e SNOOO to
$5,-:XX) • rcu
w it
th e h l ^ t e e t eq-iStaMW* s c o r e had th e lo v e s t searing s c o re .
L o o e tl m o f .GedjM;
Very l i t t l e h a s b een w r itte n a b o u t th e c o n v en tenee o f home sew in
e tp il-x i-n t, b u t i f th e hom em aker's tim e and e n e r y i s to b e co n serv ed .
I t SRMld b e vfv I to
I v e m ere c o n s id e r a tio n to t h i s sabJ- o t.
Bozu o n hom—in k e r c o n a id e re l th e e rre a g fla e n t o f h e r sew in
th e n# * m # e
e M m re n t fend
-
46
c o n d itio n s o f work ®e s a t I a f e t o r y .
YABLK Xf.
PlSiKRTAWE BISrRIBUTIOK OP BOOMS VSKD ABD BOOMS PRm-RRlD
POR S K m m , DOKISMAB, MOBTABA
1943
K lteiitm
____
__________ c t .
P e re e n ta g e
o f rooms
used fo r
WPrtiV__________ 1 1 .7
D ining L iv in g
p e t,
e t.
3 2 .9
Rooms
Bed
Laundry sew ing
c t.
c t.
a t.
1 9 .7
P e rc e n ta g e
o t rooms
p re fe rre d
t o r ae»Ing c e n te r s
2 4 .1
PO.7
9 .4
* In c lu d e s 1 s t end 2nd f l o o r b- dro a s
2 5 .7
.4
M .b
4 .7
4 .2
O th ers
p e t.
T o ta l
e t . wo.
b .6
100 ?49
6 .6
100 27b
"Cr-tii homeeseker wee a sk e d t o r e p o r t th e room g e n e r a lly u se d f o r
sew ing sari th e c lo s e n e s s o f th e im p o rta n t Ite w s o f sea l a
a c tu a l sewing c e n t e r .
equipmen t to th e
The rooms most commonly u sed were d in in g * bed, end
l i v i n g rooms, b u t th e homemaker* e r p r e s ed t h e i r p re fe re n c e f o r f l r s t - i l o o r
bedrooms o r k itc h e n s a s sew ing c e n te r s .
(T a b le XV)
P our p e rc e n t o f th e
homes inkers h ad sewl a# rooms and o n ly 4 .8 p e r c e n t e x p re sse d » d e s ir e f o r a
s e p a ra te sew ing room.
These f i g u r e s a r e n o t s u r p r i s l n
when c o n s id e rin g
t h e a v e ra g e e l s e o f th e homes and th e li m i t e d tim e sp e n t I n sew ia .
(T a b le X I).
Agan ( I ) h a s su g g e ste d th e d e s i r a b i l i t y o f a ream which she
c a l l e d a c lo tn e r y t o b e lo c a t e d n m r th e k itc h e n and a rra n g e d to tak e c a r e
o f th e la u n d e r in g , r e p a i r ,
na c o n s tr u c tio n o f d o t n l n r .
Sucn a B a l t i -
p u rp o se room m ight be more p r a c t i c a l i n th e home o f a v e ra g e s iz e th a n a
Sewine room Thlcn few o f th e women have o r d e s i r e .
M ost o f th e homemakers
(lt>8) do t h e i r sew ing o r l y d u rin g th e d a y -tim e and i f such a c lo tn e r y were
-
*7
-
a v a i l a b l e to th e n , BAny n e e d le s s s te p s m ig h t be a v o id ed .
D uring th e
p a s t few y e a rs niucn Ijaproveiaent in M tc a e a is has
r e s u l t e d from th e e f f o r t s o f equipment Odsapseies and from peo ;le «610 a r e
d i r e c t l y c o n c e rn 'd s d th th e problem s o f h memak r s .
I f sewing c e n te rs more
n e a r ly p a r a l l e l e d th e modem k itc h e n s I n a t t r ctlven* s s and co n v en ien ce.
I t would be n a t u r a l to e x ite d an In c re a s e d i n t e r e s t i n home sew ing.
R eason* fp J t JLSlina-.
t h e homeEaBkere were a sk e d to ch eck seven r - s e l f I e r n s o n s f o r
sew ing and to l i s t a d d itio n a l ones w itch a p p lie d to them .
Lower co at
scco in t i f o r I'j p e rc e n t o f th e t o t a l 91? answ ers and s c s c o n sid e re d
im o rt-x n t by 66 p e r c e n t o f th e hommankers and r e g a r d le s s o f th e fa m ily in ­
come.
( t a b l e s XVI and m i )
hone sew ing wer
The n ex t m ost fr e q u e n tly n: a e d re a so n s f o r
?) g p n aen ts more s a t i s f a c t o r y , 10.2 ^ r c e n t , 3) b e t t r
m e t e r l a l s , l b p e r c e n t, and 4) enjoym ent 15 p e r c e n t.
joym ent o f ar Jdng a
e a re d to become more Iw p o rt
The h Bieuakers en­
t i n r e l a t i o n to o th e r
re a s o n s g iv e n &* th e fa m ily Income l e v e l In c re a s e d .
#hen economic
p r e s s u r e I s re d u c ed I t I s norm al to f i n d enjoym ent a s s. more fre q u e n t
m o tiv e f o r home sewing I f th e homemaker does an a p p r e c ia b le amount.
S h o rta g e s o f ready-m ade a r t i c l e s c o n s ti tu te d 1 0 .9 p e rc e n t o f
th e re a so n s g iv e n , and t a b l e XXI shows th t 8 .5 p e rc e n t o f th e homemakers
c o n sid e re d th e U n i t e d ch o ice o f m a te r ia ls a s a d i f f i c u l t y a s s o c ia te d w ith
t h e i r e- iflng a c t i v i t i e s .
These sm all p e rc e n ta g e s in d ie ; te d t h a t no a c u te
TABLE XTI
Sewing
s c o re s
1100-1199
1000-1099
900- 999
600- 893
700- 799
600- b99
500- 599
NOO- 499
300- 399
% 0 - ?99
loo- 199
oo- 99
Mo sco re
T o ta l He.
o f answ er;
.
PHBPOKllO!! O T H0K8KAKKR3 STATIST RfASOHS FOR 8> fIHO ( CLASSIFIED BT TFAKLT SWIHD
SCORES) BOZKMAM, W
OM
TAKA 1943
Reasons : r
in
S fttia ffe c tl-n
______ EcoDoa4.cs
Ho. ox InJoy-OfeTLient 3 B e tte r B e tte r
Lower In ­
mat f—
hoaie- w ent loo r e
work­
c o st
c re a s e d
ratal Iy
s. Ak­
mans a tis ria ls
sh ip
rso e rs*
needs
........... M ry
p e t.
p e t.
p e t.
p e t.
p e t.
C t.
I
I
I
I
2
4
5
S
17
>
56
89
W
•7
.7
•7
.7-
•7
•7
•7
1 .5
2 .2
3 .7
5 .5
1 3 .2
1 9-0
35.8
lb . 7
265137
1.4
2 .0
2 .0
3 .4
7 .4
1 6 .9
19.6
89.0
1 5 .5
1U8
P e t.e a c h
re a so n to
16.2
to ta l
1 5 .0
P e t. or
womesn g iv la g th e s e
FoSsons
J S W L 5 5 .9
* Ho answ er - 11 homemakers
.7
.7
•7
.7
.7
2 .0
2 .0
3 .4
6 .9
17.1
2 1 .9
26.7
1 6 .5 _
146
1 6.0
.9
.9
•9
•9
2 .6
2 .7
4 .2
6 .8
1 6 .8
1 7 .7
2 4 .8
1 6 .6
113
.6
.6
.b
.6
.b
1 .7
1 .1
4 .0
7 .4
16.9
2 3 .4
2 4 .5
lb .0
175
1 2 .4
19.2
42.7
6 6 .0
O th ers
S h o rt­
age o f
rF ;d y made
a rtic le s
p e t.
1 .8
1 .8
5 .4
5 .4
5 .4
8.9
1 6 .0
16.0
2 3 .2
Ib a
56
6.1 _
T o ta l
Ho.
p e t.
1 .0
2 .6
2 .6
23.7
39.5
31.6
7
4
5
4
9
18
17
31
bS
146
182
259
162
38
912
1 .0
2 .0
1 .0
1 .0
10 .0
16.2
16.2
35.4
lb .2
99
19 .9
-3 U 1 ____J I a 2 _____
Aw.
Bo.
per
p e r­
son
4 .2
1 4 J ..
100
7
4
5
4
4 .5
4 .5
3 .4
3.9
4 .0
4.1
3 .3
2 .9
_ J .S
s h o rta g e o f t e x t i l e s A t e r l a l s h a s been f e l t I n Bog#,.an, and corresp onds
c lo s e ly to th e Stat--H entg v o lu n teered , by th e lo e c l fM rc h a n ts.C In tro d u c tio n )
An in c r e a s e i n fa m ily n eed s eeeetii t o be a r e l a t i v e l y unim­
p o r ta n t re a s o n f o r s e e in g f o r t h i s group o f hoauscakers, b u t i t w ill be
r erne,, here cl from ta b le TL thr&t o n ly 5 p e rc e n t o f th e t o t a l fa m ily members
vi-Te u n d e r th e a ^ e o f th r e e y e a r s .
I n a d d itio n to th e g p e c ix ic ln f o n a h tlo n re q u e s te d , cany soman
V o ln n te i re d a d d itio n a l re a s o n s f o r s e e in g m ie n in c lu d e d I ) b e t t e r m a te r ia ls
a t Ic i* r o o s t . 2 ) b e t t e r f i t t i n g g arm en ts. 3) more s u i t a b l e s t y l e s , and 4)
mending to make c lo th e s l& et lo n g e r.
The re a so n s g iv e n f o r home sew ing i n t h i s and p re c e d in g s tu d ie s
a p p e a r to b e e s s e n t i a l l y th e same, r e g a r d le s s o f m en th e y a r e re q u e ste d .
Wood, L in d q u is t,
M S tu d ie y (39) in 193? gave "lo w er c o s t and b e tte r
m a tv -rial, b e t t e r s u i t i n g o f in d iv id u a l n e e d s , end enjoym ent" a e th e most
o u ts ta n d in g re a s o n s f o r home sew ing.
O’ B rie n and Campbell (28) concluded
t Jv fc 90 p e rc e n t o f th e 1697 *omen in te rv ie w e d by them v»ere sew ing because
o f th e lo w er c o s t o f home-made garm ents# an d 75 p e rc e n t o f th e women were
SRWin?.;; b e c a u se th e y were a b le to o b ta in b e t t e r m a te r ia ls f o r making g a rm e n ts.
Garm en ts uuon which s vin, s m ight be e f f e c t e d through home sewim;
I n a d d i t i o n to g iv in g lo w er c o s t a s a re a so n f o r home sew ing,
many homemakers in d ic a te d c e r t a i n k in d s o f a r t i c l e s upon w hich sav in g s ini;.dat
be made. (T a b le XIX)
from th e s ta te m e n ts o f tn e homeeuikears. i t a p p ea re d
t h a t g a n a e n ts f o r g i r l s were c o n sid e re d th e m ost im p o rta n t ite m s o f s a v in g s .
,T e a s e s , s le e p in g garm ents# and a p ro n s a cc m m te d f o r th e h ig h e s t p e rc e n ta g e
o f t o t I a n sw e rs.
I t was i n t e r e s t i n g to n o te tn e d if f e r e n c e s o f o p in io n
TABLE XVII
PHQPOKTI OH or HOKKMAXSHS STATIHO HRASOiTS
30ZmAN, MONTANA igM]
FOR SSfIHO (
HeattQn5 f o r sewing
actio n .
' oonomlc
Income
________ Others
Short-
Ho.o f Enjoy- Oamenta Better Better
lower
In-
home- s e n t
c o st
creased age o f
f Siaily
readyneeds
made
mak­
ers*
more
e a tI s ia c -
m ateria ls
I
n e t.
15000over
$40004999
$ 30003999
$20002999
$1000-
CLASSIFIED PT IMCCHE OKJOPS )
C t.
workman­
sh ip
n e t.
c t.
o t.
... r e t .
Total
NO.
Ar.
No.
per
p e t30n
n o t.
22
1 8 .8
1 5 .9
1 4 .5
1 1 .7
13.1
5.s
1 8.6
1 .4
69
3.1
27
17^
1 8 .2
1 7 .2
1 4 .1
1 4 .2
3 .o
13 .1
3.0
99
3 .6
5b
l b .7
12.5
16.1
1 0 .7
2 0 .9
6.0
10.1
7 .0
168
3.0
I
74
1 4 .7
1 7 .0
1 5 .9
1 2 .0
1 6 .0
6 .6
11 .2
4 .6
258
3 .5
%
I
46
1 2 .3
1 5 .5
16.1
1 4 .0
2 1 .5
6 .5
9 .6
2 .5
185
3-8
$ OOO11
999
Hot g iv e n 27
6 .5
1 7 .2
1 7 .4
1 9 .5
1 7 .4
1 3 .1
1 1 .5
26.1
21 .5
6 .5
2 .3
6 .5
6 .9
6 .5
46
4.6
87
4 .1
3 .2
912
3 .4
1999
T o ta l H o .265
137
l«iS
P e t .o f
to ta l
lb. 2
1 5 .0
I S a 12JMU
* Ho answ er, 11 homemakers
15
146
10 .0
113
1 2 .4
175
,.,,lit?
56
.- U
99
- ___ 10.9
38
4 .2
- io p ,,,
TABLE XVIII.
PHlPOET'W OF KOKOWKKRS STATIUS JHASOKS FTR S^fXHO ( CLA -IIFI - O Y f RAIJJllIB IK
SFfIMO ) BOZWM. MOMTAHA X94J
.'T o . o f ______________________ Rescons f o r
homeZoonoaic
s a tis fa c tio n
HomeBdiii- Enjoy- S a m e n ts B e t te r B e t te r
Lower In workco o t
c re a s e d
m atemore
m akers
are* meat
'oc
nr
i
a
l
s
s
a
t
i
s
fa
m ily
tra in f
a
c
sh ip
needs
In g in
to r y
s e e i n g ____
.
n e t.
■sot.
n e t. - r c $ , . n o t . .. ..
Hone
1.8
•7
.7
.5
O th e rs
S hortT o ta l
age Cf
Ho.
readypade
a rtic le s
n e t.
n e t. .
2.0
8
5 .3
At .
HO.
per
p e r-
1 .6
%2.3
39.2
4 2 .4
4 2 .5
4 6 .3
53-6
4 7 .4
> J.5
399
6 .3
3 4 .3
35.8
31 .5
2 8 .3
33.2
2 5 .0
2 3 .3
36.8
292
3 .3
$2
2 0 .4
2 3 .0
2 4 .0
26.5
IM
16.1
21.2
15 .2
196
3 .8
S e i-^ X e a >
T o ta l Ho.265
V0
38
U
912
2 .4
56
L I—
99
Home
US
High SoWol
and Otn r s
C o lle g e
and o th e r
*
137
.!.JL -.
I »43
Ho answer - 11 hoRvemsieers
1 .4 — 2 .7
146
us
175
- 5? on th « q u e g tlc B o f sav in g # ,
sav in g # eonlci be e f f e c t e d by
f o r MSkaple, two hom«iiakers s t a t e d th t a
aiding boys* p a jam as, s m ile two home&aker#
C o ae id e re d th e # # i t a .# Im p r a c tic a l to aieke.
TABLE XIX.
K inds o f
g arm en ts
Untlerc lo th in ,
S le e p in g
g arm ents
Aprons
D resses
S k irts
B lo u ses
S h irts
S u its
C oats
PBBC KWMI OP AMSWKRS 88011*» KIlOS O f OAIMEKTS fOB TAMILT
MKWBBRS C« $%ICM SAVINGS CAM BE KfK^CTED THROUGH HCKB sn iH G
BOBWAH KOBTAJtA 1943
I n f a n ts
p e t.
flan n en ts made f o r fa m ily members
Women
%en
O ir la
Boys
p e t.
p e t.
p e t.
p e t.
T o ta l Answers
p e t.
Mo.
35
2
39
20
4
42
4
17
3
8
S
2
13
9
15
20
19
61
47
33
37
6
21
13
16
4
50
21
24
28
>
%
65
57
11
46
44
20
3
4
288
234
295
168
148
64
75
130
20
16
20
12
10
4
5
9
14b
613
493
70
1497
10
42
34
5
‘'um ber o f
!36
answ ers
h o t .o f t o t a l
answ ers
9
100
A ch eck l i # t f o r h o u seh o ld item # upon which s a v in g s c o u ld be made
#-.s n o t In c lu d e d i n th e q u e s tio n n a ir e , b u t some hm em skers w rote i n a t o t a l
o f 159 h o u seh o ld Item # i n a d d itio n to th e g a m e n ts m en tio n ed .
■ vln v - : a on ty u e s o f h ou seh o ld Iteatg
C u r ta in s , d r a p e r ie s
D ish to w e ls
S h e e ts and p illo w c a s e s
Q u ilts
S lip c o v e rs
Luntiieon s e t s
M isc e lla n e o u s
T o ta l -
P c tt o f answ ers
18
!'►
f>
©
4
A
100
A coKti a r l son o f th e o p in io n s o f th e hometaakera a s to th e sa v in g s t h a t m ight
-5 3
-
be e f fo o te d tlupoti^jht bocee moving w ith th e ‘ fzount o f gewln^', t h a t wea acfcu&lljr
dcauB by th e hcajHKiJ&kera ahown » f a i r l y c lo s e r e l a t i o n sM p . ( t a b l e s XlX &rul IV)
There ha# b en rsuati c o n tro v e rs y o v e r the raibjact o f th e c o a ts o f
Iwae-IOAde en d yoM yraad* c lo th in g . (12) ( I J ) (5 7 ) (% )
The h o a m a k e r
csiat decide whether th e tim e an d en erg y sj>ent I n s*aklne-; c lo th in g I s warranted
by th e s w ings or s a t i s f a c t i o n she Ls &&1% to r e a lise .
I f b e t t e r m aterials
are boug$it fo r -tia^lsy u g^uesent thn» could be found in & re&dy-c&de gar,.te a t
o f coi»i|>? rabie s ty le , the savin s c o u ld be estimated only In the added Iea^jth
of time the germeat would be u s a b le .
parti c a l -r ly
This w u ld not alw ays be desirable,
sty le s oh mg* more qul. ckly tium th^y do under o u r present
war-time "freezing* regulfttiom .'
Foi:,e*sj:er 1s fer a j n lm ..
A n o th er f a c t o r a h lch seethed to be
r e le v a n t to th e e x te n t o f Iwmmmkers sesAng a c t i v i t i e s W s th e amount o f
t r a i n i n g th e y h ad re c e iv e d i n th e fu n u m eutul te d « n lq u e s o f oswing.
Con­
s e q u e n tly in fo rm a tio n was so -t^ il to d e term in e any r e l a t i o n s h i p o f th e
amount en d k in d o f t r a i n i n g to th e sew ing scores;, th e re a so n s f a r sew ing,
find th® d i f f i c u l t i e s ^ o c e u n te rfd .
T ab les 'HTIII, XX, XXI, find XXlI a re
p r e s e n te d to show some o f th e e f f e c t s o f ln fo m ;* ! ?ad f o m n l t r a i n i n g .
In -
f o r rA l t r a i n i n g r e f e r s to l a e t r u c t i o u r e c e iv e d I n th e hotsn, •• ^ p le u e n te d by
a i d i r o n hooks, w ^ fis ln e s o r b u l l e t i n s , w h ile f o m l t r a i n i n g i s d e fin e d
s t h a t re c e iv e d I n h ig h «61x001 , c o lle g e , o r ;»d I t e<iac t i c n g ro u p s.
I n s t r u c t i o n from th e u s e o f p r in t e d m a te r ia l a s th e o n ly smyrce o f sewing
n e lp was n o t t Iv en by any hom m ^ksr and th e r e f o r e h a s n o t been ta b u la te d
a s a m ajo r ty p e o f t r a i n i n g .
The same was t r u e f o r a d u l t c la s s e s , s in c e
th e 33 homemakers # o had. t h i s ty p e o f i n s t r u c t i o n h ad a ls o had some o th e r
TABLE
XX .
S eein g
s c a re s
HISTiaJRttIOS OF H W iSA K F.B T
Brv/,'JAAN, MOHTARA
IgU j
Ho. o f
iiometafike rs*
1100-1199
1000-1099
900- 999
soo- 899
700- 793
600- 699
500- 599
woo- W99
300- 399
200- 299
100- 199
00- 99
55
94
Ho s c o re
4b
T o ta l Ho.
269
I
I
I
I
2
4
3
8
17
3b
PCT.OF T^TAL
a Mswkbs
Home
High
scb o o l
Col­
le g e
.. p e t.
POtV'.
n e t.
16.7
20.0
lb. 7
5 0 .0
50.0
33*4
44.5
21.4
26.1
32.0
39.9
2 8 .5
31.7
40.8
224
32.0
* He answ er - 7 homemakers
1 6 .7
2 1 .4
13.0
12.0
11.1
14.3
8 .7
6.0
1 6 .5
7 .2
11.1
19.5
17.3
19.5
121
16.8
9.1
8.0
6 .2
52
7.7
SOOHKS ArO THAIFINO Jg 8kWI80
Tyoee o f sew ing tr a in in g
AdQlt
Bul­
Books Maga­
educa­
z in e s
le tin s
tio n
g ro u p s
p e t . - .1 c t . _r _V .ppt.
n e t.
l b . fa
lb. 7 16.7 I b J
20.0
20.0
20.:-’
20.
50.0
50 .0
1 6 .6
16.7 1 6 .6
7.1
8.7
4.0
2.0
5 .2
5.5
3.0
33
4.7
11.1 11.1
7-1 14.3
17.5 13.0
12.0 16.0
9.3 19.6
12.1
5 .2
1
6 .5
9.7
l
b
.3
5.1
60 124
8.6
17.4
14.3
13.0
12.0
10.3
10.4
8.8
7.2
68
.7
O th e rs Sone
p o t,
p o t.
T o tal
n e t.
100 6
5
100 2
100 2
100 6
100
9
100 14
100 23
100 50
100
97
100 154
100 237
100 98
100
11.1
6.0
4.2
2 .5
1.7
16
2.3
.7
.8
2,0
5
0 .3
703
100
TABLB
x a * PWH1UiffIOX F HOfeISXAKESS SYATlNO MrfICQLTI S OF S t n m
SEXIHtl U'PAlSlflO) BOStitAS, UOKTMA
19*3
A ctu al s w iiu s
Use A F l t - S ty l­
HoeieHo.o f a lte » * tln e4
in g
m akers home- e t l o a n ro tse a liig az-.k- ot p -> leeis
t r a i n ! BK ex-3* t e m
n e t . . R et , p e t.
4
4 .0
Home
115
Kl ociiool 82
6 4 .0
Hone
C e lie g e
bl
Hot g iv en 5
T otril
c t.
T o ta l Uo.<55
p e t,ef
to ta l
d iffi­
c u ltie s
ioo
2 0 .0
6 .0
4 .3
1 .4
50.0
2 6 .4
1 9 .4
2 .8
100
100
25
T?
12 .
• Mo A nsoer - 21 hn'-w iakcre
2 .9
4 0 .0
34.3
2 0 .0
2 .8
if t f r i c u l t l o s
K m rim ent
P e re o o a l
Incoa- Jfeeye
Lack
VAlktlg u e s t r a i n
Ol
eq u ip ­ I a n t
Ioe&ment
p e t.
aevri.^
u te ra ie a l
I r x l- Oetiers
ta tlc n
( C \M Xf t * V B I TYFfS OF
Lt-Qk Limof
IW
tim e c h o ice
o f ant--ria ls
r e t . .. n e t.
: it .
<-t.
C t.
c t.
n e t.
b.O
1 .7
4 0 .0
2 .5
1 2 .9
1 .8
46.5
45.9
2 0 .E
20.8
^3 .7
1 .9
4 3 .2
3
2 .4
37 .3
1 3 .7
3
I
2.1
4 7 .0
31 .4
48 .3
36.8
1 0 .5
5 9 .7
3 0 ,0
2 0 .0
.
9 .3
2 .9
4 .0
3 5 .0
1 3 .3
5.0
2 5 .5
2 5 .5
32.9
2 0 .4
1 .2
100
100
100
100
100
100
100
100
35
38
35
50
60
43
24
167
51
6*3
5.8
8.3 1 v
f.a
4.0
27.9
p e t.
3 .0
3 .9
100
5. s
Xime Ay.
per
p e r­
son
8.5
2 .2
2 .3
2 .4
7
2.5
table
r ,w o m a n s Q f
w n m o i / ic m ,T i$ e of seme ( claesxft d >it r r i t s of
TA A im w AHg fiTCmna s c o r n ) BOA^iAH, WOMTAW 19*»]
xxd.
Pcm rattiters
Im ln In c I n
No.o f
haftoBttfce rs
ior'oi)+
' .
' '^ ^ S B B S a r f
AettiOl
Llidw
q u liAt . Ho.o f
Ho.
aenl
lie d
i*ner
»#5fciioloe
S e w e*
ln c
o f cfcte. tittl#
p e t.
T
2 0 .9
19]
^
#
2 0 .0
53*6
2 9 ,4
100
269
*A,6
1 6 .0
27*1
2 9 .4
2 5 .1
100
137
31.1
6 .2
9*7
30.1
33*6
100
113
1 9 .0
1& 5
51
1 5 .6
1 2 .5
167
.. . 2 * L
177
m
16
to o
Htifetw
12]
100
201
ii]
2*».5
5 .2
1 0 .6
89
52
7*»
%
lb 7
62
1 0 .2
179
51
19*3
2 0 .4
7
276
3
227
22]
185
5
255
2 5 .0
132
p o t. o f
to ta l
( 600 )
* Ho w o w # - *»J hooHnatesya
• • Mo MtM&r - 21 h taito64ce«rg
22
> et.o f
to ta l
Ho.
(to o )
p e t.
100
5
CoIle e *
Hol r e ­
p o r te d
Totcile
P e - - Total®
eonal
lAgroIo a l
p e t.
V .
None
Kl BCi tool
S S S
Look
of
tim e
8 .5
73
1 2 .1
27*9
Up.
15
2 .5
................
5 .6
100 .
- 57 ty p e o f f o ziifil t n I n i n ;,
There w&e e g e n e ra l tenden cy f o r th e percent ge of eealng
d iffic u ltie s to lnere* se in an in v e r s e Zf t l o to th e LotaeuBIsbr e training
i n eewln? .
(Tati© XXI)
Only % of the homeufikprs sfto ©ere In c lu d e d In t h i s
claeeizie t i e s h ad no sewing training, m a reported few sewing d lfilcu ltlen ,
tut W i r low scores I n d ic a te d t h a t l i t t l e sewing was being done.
The h ig h e s t a v erag e s c o re s o f 201 p o i n t s were a t t a i n e d by th o s e
i t h o n ly l n f o r a a l tr a in in g &s o o n ^ -rea w ith a n a v erag e s c o re o f lb ? p o in ts
f a r th o s e h o u en ak ers H aving h ig h sch o o l and c o lle g e l n s t r c t io n . (T ab le
X V III).
Aa a w hole, th e hoaea& kers h a v in g h ad o n ly hoiae t r a i n i n g rm o rtM .
th e g r e a t e s t number o f d i f f i c u l t i e s i n sew ing and a ls o s t a t e d few er re a so n s
f o r a e win .
The o n ly o th e r in s ta n c e i n which th e e f f e c t o f t r a i n i n g was
In c lu d e d I n heme sew ing s tu d ie s s e e th e one en d * by Brom t (9 ) i n which a l l
o f th e homemaker* i n c l uded were c o lle g e home economics g m d m t e s .
D i f f i c u l t i e s o f aew ih u
I n a stu d y o f home sewing i t seemed
iu e io rt'-n t to I e r n s h a t sewing d i f f i c u l t i e s were re c o g n iz e d ty th e ho@eBmkers.
Lack o f tim e ranked f i r s t i n o r d e r o f d i f f i c u l t i e s a c c o u n tin g f o r
2 7 .9 p e rc e n t o f 60
answ ers re c e iv e d .
(T a b le s XXI and XXII)
The second
m ost coroaoa d i f f i c u l t y s e t f i t t i n g which a c c o u n te d f o r 12 p e r c e n t o f th e
a n sw e rs.
AU o f th e answ ers re c e iv e d w ere o rg a n is e d u n d e r f i v e a atjo r
h e n d ln q, nfsnely. I ) a c tu a l dewing d i f f i c u l t i e s , ?) la c k o f equipment o r i n ­
c o n v en ie n t l o c a t i o n o f equipm ent,
3 ) li m i t e d ch o ice o f m a t e r i a l s , 4) p e rs o n a l
p h y s ic a l d i f f i c u l t i e s , and 5) la c k o f tim e .
The p e rso n * ! p h y s ic a l d i f f i c u l ­
t i e s and !"ok: o f tim e w ere th e two most f r e q u e n tly m en tio n ed a lth o u g h th e y
* 58 *
would not nortaally be considered as directly related to sw lag processes.
The actMfcl sewing d iffic u ltie s uiileh included u e an., alteration of patterns,
fit t in g nrobletas, FOtd -styling represented 22 percent of the total tmtiib^r
, ;lvpn end j-r<- n .. ,ed by 5 2 percent of the he«ieu£*Brs»
,he fact that 5 5 ,9 percent of the aosaen sea because garments t.re
iaore #atln fa e te z y and iKi.7 percent becaoee of better
»riaaanshlu (table X fI)
indicates tin t at least this number had been eble to meet their sewing,
pro tile s to their own satisfaction.
0 * :*ien sM Cempbell (28) classed the d ifflo a ltlee of sewing
included In their study under soleetlcn and construction.
The construc­
tion uroble s sere ;a st often due to Inability to f i t s^menta# end. to
niter patterns 9 - tlsf'-ctorily.
Cof.sngTl sons of ^re- war end WK-r-tlne ?ewln .
One of the
original objectives o f this study *is to determine the effect of war-tine
conditions on Wie extent of home sewin . (Table XXIII).
The data for
the 181 bcemakers v*io reported sewing for both periods indicated that
the houf-iifekers w«re *kiiv; more clot .lug and bourne)^ld articles fw m new
ana renovated t-r terial in IjHS
nd 1 9 H3 ti n during;, the years IyHO sad I A l.
This increase was 22 percent for the two
r-tlirte y-ars ov< r the two
ore-ear ye re.
The h uftiAker* realisation of the jar-born necessit, for the con­
servation of te t i l e material* see s e v id e n t because of tlie masked increase
In the lae.wer of renovated a rtic les,
the consumers* jlea,,es "I J ill Wy
C- r e f .XIy- I w ill take care o f the thin s I liave—I w ill waste nothin "
-
fA a tg X X III.
-
COMPARISON Of THK AVXSAOS AMOUNT AND HKD OP SEEING BT
HWWAESSS IN PSE-WAH AND ^AR-TIKK PSHODS
DOZ jtAS, MONTANA i y 4 j
20
H enovated m a te r ia l........
Stm ber
Kinds
3 2 .0
2 .4
3 5 .0
3 .4
9
%
6 .5
7 .8
I
*
New a.: S e r ia l ....
number
Kinds
I
waking
a rtid e s
131
181
%
x
Jio .o f
home-
I
T o ta l
s c o re s
P e r io d
fo r
th e
p e r io d
P re -w a r
65*922
W sr-tU ie 30,351
ln t $ W
59
38
h ' s s e rv e d to em phasise t h i s form o f w n r-tia e s e r v ic e . (51)
o .9
98
42
® iile
th e r e was a d e e id e d in c r e a s e i n th e t o t a l amount o f sewing f o r th e » x~
tim e p e r io d . I t was vet cotsion f o r a l l bocm&akAre.
Sob* o f th e re a so n s
g iv e n by hoiaetaaters f o r a d e c re a se i n s e e in g d u rin g th e m r - t i s i e y e a rs
,e re o u ts id e employment and fe w er members o f th e f m ily a t home to c r e a te
e n eed f o r sew ing.
The re a so n s g iv e n f o r a n in c r e a s e i n sew ing d u rin g
t h i s p e rio d In c lu d e d s h o rta g e s o f ready-m ade a r t i c l e s , h o u se h o ld s newly
e s ta b lis h e d , and a r e c o g n itio n o f th e im /o r t'n o e o f sew ing d u rin g th e war
tim e .
V alue o f O b je c tiv e f e t i n g S c a le f o r E v a lu a tio n o f th e E x te n t o f S eeing
The o b je c tiv e r a t i n g s c a le t h a t h a s been u s e d i n t h i s stu d y i s a n
o r i g i n a l d e v ic e to e s a lu a te th e e x te n t o f homemakers eewint a c t i v i t i e s .
P r e v io u s ly th e t o t a l amount o f sewing was d eterm in ed ty th e number o f
-
to -
^B xaenta made, b a t t h i s m ethod does n o t p e rm it s a t i s f a c t o r y com parisons
b ecau se th e ty p e s o f home s e * l% a re so d iv e r s e .
T h e re fo re , I t seemed
t L uely to d ev elo p a q u a n t i t a t i v e iaeasure w hich would d i f f e r e n t i a t e between
sit p i e and more complex a r t i c l e s and y i e l d v a lu e s » h icn ahen t o t a l e d would
r e s u l t i n a t r u e p i c t u r e o f th e work a cc o m c lish ed .
T h is method o f measurement was ev o lv ed th ro - h on a n a ly s is o f th e
m a jo r and m inor p ro c e s s e s o f sew ing.
The m a jo r p ro c e s s e s in c lu d e d I ) th e
tim e re q u ire m e n t, ?) s k i l l I n p la n n in g nnd C a U ln c , &nd 3) s k i l l In c o n s tr ic ­
t i o n and f l t t l n .
borne
s h e e ts o f sewing sdiidi were n o t Ip c lu a e d mrm th e
p re lim in a ry p la n n in g r e l a t e d to th e f u l f i l l m e n t o f needs o r d e s i r e s , th e .
s e l e c t i o n m& p u rch n se o f p a t t e r n s and m a t e r i a l s , o r th e v r lo u e form s o f
handw ork, a s th e s e a r e n o t I n t e g r a l p a r t s o f th e sewing
ro e e a a .
W hile o n ly 47 a r t i c l e s hav e been a s s ig n e d v a lu e s . I n th e f u tu r e
any sew ing ite m may be g iv e n a num erical v a lu e by f i r s t e v a lu t i n g th e work
in v o lv e d on th e th r e e r a t i n g s c a le s and th e n a v e ra g in g th e r e s u l t a n t i l g u r e 3 .
Some uilnor re a d ju s tm e n ts o f th e sc o re v a lu e s may be found n e c e ssa ry to a llo w
f o r ch'jage* i n h a t d t a , s t y l e s o f f a s h io n s .
I t i s a n t i c i p a t e d t h a t th e
.ethod u se d In d e v elo p in g t h i s r a t i n g
s c a le co uld be u sed by th o s e f o r o u le tln g home economies c u r r i c u l a f o r h ig h
sc h o o l, c o lle g e , o r a d u lt pro, ram s, a » an a i d i n d e d d liv
sequence o f a r t i c l e s to
as made by s tu d e n ts .
upon th e b e s t
The tim e v a lu e s would have to
be a d ju s te d b ecau se o f th e in e x p e rie n c e o f some of th« s tw te n ts and to a llo w
f o r th e tim e r e q u ire d f o r I n s t r u c t i o n .
T h is r a t i n g s c a le
should be
v a lu a b le to s tu d e n ts i n e v a lu a tin g t h e i r own p ro g re s s i n gewin, .
—6i —
'LOtitemakera ns#y a ls o u s e th e r a t i n g s c a le to d e term in e th e
a c t u a l e a o o a t o f seizing t h a t they do w ith in a c e r t a i n p e r io d o f tim e .
Such
an o b je c tiv e oe& sure o f t h i s on© p h ase o f th e houra:ir-ker' e c o n tr ib u tio n t o
th e r e a l ln c o e o f h e r fa ta lly would a i d I n taa e v a lu a tio n o f h e r t o t a l jo b .
i f p r o f e s s io n a l home eco n o iaists o r o th e r s d i r e c t l y o r i n d i r e c t l y
I n t e r e s t e d i n th e tr e a d s o f home s e e in g o r th e f a c t o r s which In flu e n c e
home seein g # would fo llo w th e method u sed i n d ev elo p in g t h i s r a t i n g s c a le
i n Biakin
f u t u r e I n v e s t l ^ t l o n s t nu m erical co tsv -tieo n e c o u ld b e made w ith
th e r e s u l t s p re s e n te d h e r e in .
- 62
SUMMART OF BtSULTS
Ttt* e x te n t o f th e sew ing a c t i v i t i e s o f ltosemaa, Montana n s * a e k e r s an# evalap-ted, by th e u s e o f a n o r i g i n a l d e v ic e which m easured some
o f th e most Im port n t &s e c ts o f sew ing.
th r e e m ajo r f a c t o r s o f sew ing, nam ely.
c u ttin g .
B a tin g s c a le s were s e t up f o r th e
I ) tim e ,
2 ) s k i l l i n p la n n in g and
*nd 3) s k i l l i n c o n s tr u c tio n and f i t t i n g , to in s u r e a n a c c u ra te
e v a lu a tio n o f v a rio u s a r t i c l e s o f sew ing.
The v a lu e s were a s s ig n e d to
each o f 47 a r t i c l e s o f sew ing by ju d g in g com m ittees o f h«&e.;&kers and
p r o f e s s io n a l home econom ists and th e n u@ed by th e w r i t e r i n d e term in in g
th e e x te n t o f sew ing r e p o r te d by each o f th e homemaker#.
The y e a r ly a v e ra g e s c o re s f o r a l l hm em akere ran g ed from zero
to 1104 p o in ts w ith an a v e ra g e s c o re fo r th e group o f 185 p o i n t s .
E ig h ty -
f o u r p e rc e n t o f th e homemakers were d o in g some sewing and th e a r t i c l e #
m ost f r e q e n tly made were h o u se d r e s s e s , a p ro n s , s k i r t s , and undergarm ents
f o r g irl#
nd women and pajam as f o r a l l me ,ber# o f th e f r a i l l y .
The dat&
i n d i c a t e a 22 p e rc e n t I n c r e a s e i n tine t o t a l amount o f a-swing f o r th e s e
homemakers dsirin^; tins w ar y e a r s , 1942 and 1943 ov r th e y jreceding two
p re -w a r ye r e , 1940 and 1941.
E ig h ty -n in e p e rc e n t o f th e homemakers owned sewing
m achine#
and a l l h a d a d d itio n a l sew ing equipment i n v a ry in g amounts in c lu d in g s h e a r s ,
m easures ami some form o f c o n ta in e r f o r th e sm all sewing eqxdlm snt.
Meet
hom etiskere c o n s id e re d th e e x i s t i n g a rra n g e m e n ts f o r t h e i r I a r g r n ie c e s o f
sew ing eq lym ent a s s a t i s f a c t o r y and s t a t e d t h a t th e d in in g room was th e
—6 3 —
p la c e most o f t e n u s e d a s a sew ing c e n te r .
The m ost im p o rta n t re a so n g iv e n f o r heme sew ing m e s a t i s f a c t i o n ,
when b e t t e r m a te r ia ls and b e t t e r workmanship I n homeciatie g arm en ts were in ­
c lu d e d u n d e r t h i s h e a d ln .
Lower c o a t and enjogm m t were n.%ied &s th e
n e x t most im p o rta n t re a so n s f o r hose sewln,,;.
In th e o p in io n o f th e Iv ste-
m a k ert th e g x -m tee t s a v in s were e f f e c t e d th ro u g h th e m aking o f d r e s s e s ,
a p ro n s
nd s le e p in g g a rm e n ts.
The g r e a t e s t rasaber o f d l f f i e u l t t e s en­
c o u n te re d an* co n n ected w ith th e u s e and a l t e r a t i o n o f T > atterns, end th e
fit:In
and s t y l i n g o f g a rm e n ts.
1^ack o f tim e was 'Iv e n by lb ? bomsmmk we#
s e a d i f f i c u l t y , b u t i t c an n o t be c o n s id e re d a s an a c tu a l sewing d i f f i c u l t y .
A H » jo r lty o f th e hoaem ekers t o d to d only h me t r a i n i n g I n the
fundam ental te c h n l ,w s o f sew ing b u t a d d itio n a l h e lp was u s A lly o b ta in e d
from p r in t e d m at r i a l s such a s bo o k s, m agazines and b u l l e t i n s .
ven though
M gn s c h o o l t r ln in g a cc o u n te d f o r th e n e x t h l# e @ t a m b e r o f answ ers, a l l
ty p e s o f f o r &1 tra ln ln u a p p e a re d to have l i t t l e e f f e c t on th e t o t a l amount
o f sew ing done.
® »sever, th e homemakers h a v in g f o r m l t r a i n i n g gave a
g r e a t e r number o f re a so n s f o r sew ing and r e p o r te d few er d i f f i c u l t i e s .
The a v e ra g e fa m ily g re e ti :ned c o n s is te d o f f o u r members w ith
#0 p e r e a t o f th e m others and b9 p r e e n t o f th e f a t h e r s o v e r MO y a r e o f
s g e , n a r l y o n e -h a lf o f th e d a u g h te rs betw een th e a g es o f 13 s a d 16, end a
m a jo r ity o f th e sons betw een 7 "Cd 18 y e a r s o f a g e.
The husbands were most f r e q u e n tly I n th e p r o f e s s io n a l o r
m a n ag e ria l c l a ss and th e average fa ta lly Income was $? 950» which In c lu d e d
th e IncotBee from S3 eaployed home a k e r s .
The s i s e o f th e income o f th e s e
f a m ilie s 36«...ed to have l i t t l e e f f e c t on th e amount o f sew ing done.
Wa-
p loyvient o u ts id e th e home and v o lu n te e r w ar work a re r e s p o n s ib le f o r added
demands on th e homemakers tim e .
An a v e ra g e o f f o u r unsettled tie d h o u rs p e r je e k was d evoted to
sew ing "by th e Boeeman homemakers w ith a p p ro x im a te ly o n e - h a lf o f th a t tim e
s p e n t I n m ending.
T hese r e s u l t s in a lu d ln g th e re a so n s f o r sew ing, d i f f i c u l t i e s
e n co u n te re d I n sew lzv, and th e amount and k in d o f equipm ent u se d do n o t
d i f i e r m arkedly from th e r e s u l t s i n s tu d ie s p r e v io u s ly rev iew ed .
th e p r e s e n t stu d y in c lu d e d o th e r f a c t o r s such &a th e
However,
^dcere s t r a i n i n g ,
o c c u p a tio n o f husband sad homemaker, th e d i s t r i b u t i o n o f th e homemaker* s
sewing tim e , a s s i s t a n c e w ith sewing a s w e ll a s o th e r h o u seh o ld ta s k s , and
th e a f f e c t s o f w ar-tim e c o n d itio n s upon th e -x te n t o f homemakers sewing
a c tiv itie s .
The c h i e f d i s t i n c t i o n h e ld by t h i s stu d y i s th e f a c t t h a t a l l
f a c t o r s which we e th o u g h t to in f lu e n c e th e iw ount and k in d o f h ete aew ia
v-ere checked a g a in s t a d e f i n i t e m easure o f th e sewing done by each home­
m aker.
- 65 (X)SCLUSl OSS
The method u s e d i n d ev elo p in g th e o b je c tiv e r a t i n g meal# Im th e
iio s t l m o r t n t c o n tr ib u tio n o f t h i s s tu d y .
The s c a le i t e e l f sh o u ld be
t r i e d o u t nnd. re v is e d i n th e l i ^ h t o f th e e x p e rie n c e and o p in io n s o f wore
p e o p le p r o f i c i e n t i n s e e in g .
T h is r a t i n g s c a le made p o s s ib le s q u a n tita tiv e
e v a lu a tio n o f th e e x te n t o f th e hocw iakers Bewinf1 a c t i v i t i e s .
Thro »h th e
u s e o f t h i s e c e le th e KomeeeJcere were c l a s s i f i e d a c c o rd in g to t h e i r sewing
s c o re s which p e r m itte d th e s tu d y o f th e in f lu e n c e o f c e r t a i n f a c t o r s on
th e fwmuit end k in d o f sew ing more e c c tu ra te ly th a n 'o u ld o th e rw is e te v e
been r o e s i b l e
- b b **
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63? p p ., J . B. Llpv-Ineott Co.
(?) Antirewa, B. 8 .
193!). ECONOMICS OF THE HffJSW’OLD. I d .
I'aculllen Co-, Bee York, S. Y.
d M c e g o . 111.
e v . b?b -pp.,
( 3 ) BRker, C. 0 .
191b. HEAsr-KAB^ ABD IfSfSMAIHE CLOTHlNO. J . Rome
S1 ^WS. B altim ore, Nd.
conoadcs
(*4) B a ld e rs to n , L. H.
193b. HDTTgrnFKHr. -td. ‘>- 2 )2 p p . . J . a . L l n p l a e e t t C o .,
C hle 4 0 , 111.
(5 ) B a ld t, L. I .
1929. CLOTiiISG TOR TONES. 552 p p ., J . B. LI,- ln e o t t C o.,
Chlee^o, 111.
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1931. CLOTHISO TOS TKK HIOH SCHOOL OIRL. ‘101 W ..
J . B. U p p ln e o tt C o.. Chicago, 111.
( J ) B axter, L. and In ta k e , A
1938.
NODEHS CLOTHIHG. 525 p p ., J . B. L ip p ln co tt C o.,C hicago,111.
( 6 ) 3rown. C. M.
______
19??. I HYEiiTIOATIOBS COHCRRHIHG THE MURDOCH S^WIHG SCALE.
Teaaii. C o l- Rec. P J. 459*
P t * . C elm b ia U n iv e r sity .
Hew York. H. Y.
19 ? 3 . AHB Wl JUSTIFIED IB T^UHI90 CLOTfiIHO COnSTRBCTICHi
J . Home oon. l l l > 8 5 . B altim ore, Md.
(1 0 )
( 11 )
1927.
CLOTfiim CONSTRUCTION. 2 3 6 p p ., Olnn » C o., Hew York, TI. Y.
1941. ^"VALUATION AND INYMTIOATION IN UDNE RCOTOMICS.
4 1 n p , , F. S. C rofts A Company, New York, 5 . Y.
(1 2 ) Carver, T. N ., woolinan. M. S ., and McGowan, I . B.
1935. TEXTILE PBOBLEJ.;S TOR THE COnStttEr!. 175 P P -,
lIaeMlllRn C o., New York, N. Y.
U 3 ) Crem er, K.
1920. HCMmME CL0THIH0 VHRStTS BRASI- yUS CLOTT'I SG
J . none Ic o n . 5, 230. B a ltL m re , Md.
(1 4 ) Bool«5'* w* H.
1934. H-CONfWICS OF CLOTHING AND TEXTIL B S .
D. C. K eatii and C o ., B o sto n , M ass.
(15) Erw in, M. D.
1940.
H. Y.
PRACTICAL DRRSS DESIGN.
(16) Evans* M ., an d McGowan, E . B.
1929. A CTJIEg TC TEXTILES.
New Y olk, B. Y.
(17) r a i s e , J .
1917.
D tSSSKAKIHG.
Og] p p . ,
4 /0 pp.< M acaU lan C o., Hew York,
233 PP*. Jo h n W iley A Sons, I n o .,
508 p p ., s e r l t n e r s Song, New Y ork. N. Y.
(18) C la n to n , L . P ,
1923. UOHS IT PAY TO S H AT HOME?
Baltimore, Md.
J . Home
con.
277*
(19) G o ld s te in , H ., and G o ld s te in , V.
1940. ART i s SflSISAY Lire. Ed. 3. 497 p p ., M acm illan C o.,
lew York, T l . Y.
( 20) H arap , H.
1924. THE tHJCATlOS O i THE CONSUMER.
Hew Y ork, H. Y.
JbO n p .,
M to d llfc n C o .,
( 21) H a s tle , M ., and G o rto n , G.
1926. SHAT SHALL SB TEACH REGARDING CLOTrITiG AND LAUNDRY PRDBLiKST
J . Home con. S , 127. B altim o re ,. Md.
( 22) E e ttu n e n , M.
I A l . FUNDAMENTALS OP DRESS.
New Y ork, H. Y.
533 p p . ,
HcUraw K i l l Book C o .,I n c . ,
(23) L a ts k e , A ., and Q u in lan , B.
1940.
CLOTTING.
564 p p . , J . B. L lp p ln e o tt C o ., C hicago, 111.
(2 4 ) L eeds, J . B.
1917. THE HWSSiOLD BUDGET.
P h ila d e lp h ia , P a .
(25) L e s te r , K. 8 .
1933.
HISTORIC COSTUME.
246 p p . , Jo h n B. L e e d s, Germantown,
244 p p ., Manual A rts P r e s s . , P e o r ia , 111.
- 6a ( 2b) Murdoch, K.
1919. a HSVim scale . B ur. Pub. T each ers C o lle g e , C oludbla
U n iv e r s ity , Nev Y ork, S . T.
(? 7 ) ___________ 19??. A
ANALTTICAL SKVINO SCALE.
U n iv e r s ity , Hew Y ork, S . Y.
T each ers C o lle g e , Columbia
x
(2 8 ) O1B rle n 1 R ., and C acpbelI , U.
1927. PRESENT TKSSBS IN HOME SEVIHO. 0 . S. D ept, o f A g r.. B ui. 4 .
B u r. Htsae * con. l 6 p p . , Washington, D. C.
(2 9 ) __________ , and Ward, M«
193 . PRSSEHT OUIBKS YOH HOUSEHOLD BtTYIHO. EdU Rev.
J. s . D%it. A g r., M lsc. P ub . 19 3 , W ashington, D. C.
/ V)\
I W I 5Sartihe t ex t il e ajuusthknts .
B a ltim o re , Md.
j
. Home
(3 1 ) H eld, M. 0 .
1934.
CONOKICS OP HOUSSROLD PRODUCTION.
& Sons, I n o . , Zlew Y ork, N. Y.
con. j 4 , 512.
408 p p . , Jo h n Wiley
(3 2 ) R ich ard so n , J . I .
1933. Tt-:?. use of tim e ;rr bubal Kr«WKF.Rs in Montana.
Acyr. xnfc. S ta . B u i. 271. 28 p p . , Boa^rsan. Mont.
(3 3 ) Sorenaon, H.
1941. T!fE CONSWIR MOVEMENT.
Hew Y ork, H. Y.
I d . I . 2 ^ PP*. H szper A B ro s ..
(3 4 ) f a n S y ck le, C.
I9 4 3 . CLOTHIW SITUATION — 1 )4 3 .
B a ltim o re , Md.
J . Mbm
con. J&, 80
(39) w ard, JT. I .
1920. THE PARK WOMAN'S PROBLEMS. Co-op. E x t.Voik I n Agr.
and Hosae con. B u i. 14 3 . 24 p n ., a a h ln g to n , D. C.
(3 6 ) W llkerw m . M.
1920.
KSULTS OF A CIvOTHINO SUHfET IN I U JN Y S .
Co-op. E x t. Wbzk I n A gr• and Htsae con. (p u b .o u t o f p r i n t , r e f .
by p e rs o n a l c o m u n ic a t i o n .)
(37) W ilson, M.
1929. USJ OP TIME BY OREGON PAJbZ HOMBZAIRPS.
M l . 256. Tl PP*» C o r v a llis , O re.
A gr. E x p t. S ta .
(3 3 ) Vflns&te, I .
1945?. TKXTILK FABMCS.
Be* T ork, B. T.
6?4 p p . , P r e n tic e - K a il I n c . .
( J ) ) Wood, H. W., L in d q u is t, R ., &nd S tn d le y , L. A.
1932. MAKAftIHO THK HOMK. 347 p p . ,
Hew Y ork, H. Y.
C o .,
(40) H tllta m s , A. B. an d % p e l , A.
1929. KOMWADK AMD KSADT-KAiB CLOTi-IKG FOH I HFAHTS.
J . Hoiie Kc o n . gL, IS 3 . B a ltim o re , Md.
(41) Youw,, ? . E.
1933. CLOTHING THE CHILD.
Be* Yotic, H. Y.
5*)6 P D .. MeCr&w H ill Book C o ., I n c . ,
(4 ? ) ZiirjlienaBa, C. C.
193b. COH DMPTIOH ABD STABDAHDS o f LIVIFT..
C o ., I n c . , Hew Y ork, H. Y.
602 p p . , D. Van Noetrsmd
(43)
~ 19?67 DI STidBIfPIOH OF TEXTILES. Bjup. o f BUa. R esearch
(H arv ard Gniv .) B ui. $6, 196 p p . , Geo. H. S i l l s C o ., I n c . ,
B o sto n , M ass.
( 4 4 ) ________________
1932. PRKSIUXNT' S COSmtOCK ON HOME BUILlHMG AHti HOME OWHERSHIP
HOUSEHOLD MANAGEMENT AHD KITCHENS.
I 4 . N a tio n a l C s p lto l P r e s s ,
I n c . , W ashington, D. C.
( 4 5 ) ________________
1932. PRESIDENT'S CONFERENCE OH HfiKE AULDIHG AND HOME OWNERSHIP.
HOMEUAHHft, HOME FURNISHINGS ASD IHFORMATKH S RVICES. %0
N a tio n a l C a p ito l P r e s s , I n c . , W ashington, ti. C.
( 4 6 ) ________________
1939. DICTIONARY OF OCCUPATIONAL TITLES, PA T I I . U. S. D ept, o f
L abor and U. S. SBfiloyment S e rv ic e , W ashington, D. C.
( 4 ? ) ___ ______ ____ __
" 19 % 7 *"cLC;7r?S ANti STORAGE SPACES. U. S. Dfr t . A g r., Farm ers'
B u i. IS 65 . 21 p p ., W ashington, D. C.
(43) ------------------------1940. STRETCHING THE CLOTHING DOLLAR.
H ousehold Finance C o rp ., C hicago, 111.
B e t te r Buyrannship,
— 70 —
W
________________
1941. smn?«£ ATO TEE darsOKSH. Inst, for Consoaer SdU, PuUlc
iffa ir s Comrnlseloa, Ine.. Psemhlet 3* Columbia, Ho.
( 5 0 ) ________________
~ 19%. TH- ~P. m THE HOHX FSDHT. Office of Price Adedlnlstration.
Region Y in S&n Franolsco Regional Office. 40 m . s San Francisco,
C a l.
( 5 1 ) ________________
1942. HOWTO win mi THr HCiMS FSOHT. la s t, for Consumer Ed., la b ile
Affairs Coes.Tlasicn, In e., Pamphlet %2. Columbia, Ho.
( 5 2 ) ______________
1943. TEXTILX SHRINKAGE, RUYim HAMTS WIIJ, CHAmi Ag STOCKS OS
HA17D RUN ODT.
Newsweek, PI, 26, 72. June 28, 1943.
( 5 3 ) ________________
1943. TIiiE MMtAOttCEW EOS HOMEMAKERS.
H oustiiold Finance C o rp ., C hicago, 111.
Better Bnymanahlp,
—
71
—
AfVSTOtX
a
W X f l T OF M B S S T V YHFHDS IN ITfTIS SFHISG IS BOZ'MAn, MONTABA
I • sesia_____________________ ___________ Addreso___ ________ _
L
I
II
E
I
c5
T I. I n d ic a te N o.o r members i n h o u seh o ld w ith in th e fo llo w in g age groups:
&
fV i«
i 7 - 1 2 ; 19 - ? b : P b - T : 31-3b; 3 b -% : n p -c v e r
:
:
i
:
:
I I I . a .Mo th e r i
:
!
:
i
B .F a th e r :
.
i
:
C .S onsi
:
: . :
:
:
:
j
:
:
:
I.O th e rs-N & le :
:
:
:
:
F . * -F ersale
:
;
;
: .... |linrT?Trr. u
IV. Husband*s O ccupation:
tim e
V. Docs hOLiei.iaker work o u ts id e o f heme *
B .F a rt tim e
BJ Nhat room I b u s e d f o r sewing?__
T I. A) ho. o f roocis i n h me
V II. KxASf-TTS F R HfSH SSHRC. Check ( / )
A._________ Enjoyment
3 ._________ J n o r e a s e i n fa ta lly n ed.9
C.
Gsm e n tB more s a t i s f a c t o r y
D.
Lower c o s t
J?. _________S e t t e r K h te r ia ls
r , _________ B e t te r workmanship
0.
S hortage o f ready-m ade a r t i c l e s
K .I.lo t o th e r r a e o n s :..........................
......... .........................................................
m i . AIS DirM ClrT-TIiiS CF HOMI $1*138 (Check J )
A. _______ Use and a l t e r a t i o n o f p a t t e r n
B. _______ F i t t i n g problem s
C. ________Unable to make g arm en ts a t t r a c t i v e o r s t y l i s h
Hl a c k o f tim e
8 ._________ Lack o f equlptoent
f . _____ __ J i m i t e d c h o ic e off d e s ir a b le m a te r ia ls
o.
_____ _Tnc o n v en ien t l o c a t i o n o f equipment
e re s t r a i n %)
irrita tio n
V. ____ ____ rr .tlg u e J )
M.Tlot o th e r d i f f i c u l t i e s _________ ________________
. .
IX . I e tita a te t h e a v erag e No.o f h o u rs s p e n t p e r week i n sew ing: ___ _____ _
X. E s tim a te th e p e rc e n ta g e o f t h i s tim e s p e n t on:A )yending,___________ I
B) R enovating______ ; O fie e Garments______; D)H ousehold se e in g ________
X I. Do you s e t a s id e r e g u la r tim e s f o r y o u r sew la ?Tes_____»o______ _ _ .
X II. Are Tour p la n s : A)Veekly______ B ) S easo n al_________ C)I r r e g u l a r ________
X I I I . I e th e r e s a y member i n y o u r h o u seh o ld who a s s i s t * w ith sewing?______
XIV. I f answ er i s y e s , i n s h a t w a y s ? ,._____________________________________
TV. Do you have a s s i s t a n c e w ith o th e r h o u seh o ld ta s k s so t h a t you spend
more tim e i n sewing?________ ___________________..
________________
XVI. Check ( > th e k in d o f t r a i n i n g o r h e lp you la v e had i n sewing te c h n iq u e s :
A)Home___; B JH i^i School_____; Q C o ile g e
; DJBooks____ ; R)Kagazinms____ ;
F J B i a i e t l n s _____ ; G JA dult • dufs&tion g roups_______ .
—
-*
X T lI. BQUIPKBBT: Check ( ) a h c t you have
A. pwing M achine: I ) T r-B d le___; 2)31 e c .P o r t . ______;n e c .C « -b .
B . A ttach m en ts f o r m achine _ _ _ _ _ _
C l ) S e rIn g k i t ____ ;2)Sew ing c a b in e t
Q .Shears* I ) e g u ls r c u t t i n g ___ :2 )5 a b ro ld e ry
3) B u tto n h o le ______
4 )P ln k in g _______
l . l ) T n e l I ne
; ? )Rul e r ____ ; 3) T-^rdst I cl;____ ; 4 )T a llo r* e quare____ ;
F.l)*jL*allor, e c h a lk
: 2 ) t r a c in g wheel_____; 3) s k i r t m ark er_________
8 . Iro n in g b o a rd s : ! ^ P o r ta b le
: 2 ) S ta tio n a ry
■.
H .I r o n s : I ) n o n -r e g u la te d
: 2 ) r e g u la te d
: iV steaia
I * l) P r e a 8 ln g cu sh io n s____ ; S) f u l l - l e n g t h m irro r____ ; 3) Dres-3 f o r a
L.*oi4d.ng c o n d itio n o f m c ld n e : D g o o d
: 2 )fa lr
: 3)Poor_____
m i l . LOCATI0* OT V & T r v n t: Check ( / )
I ) very
P U a t l s - 3)P oor
__g o a
f a c to r y ________
A . Do you c o n s id e r y o u r equipment con­
v e n ie n tly lo c a te d ? ....................................
.......................................................
B . Rate th e fo llo w in g I n r e l a t i o n to
c lo s e n e s s to th e sew ing c e n t e r . .
D se w ln g machine ..................................... ................................................................
e x p re s s in g equipm ent. . . . . . . .
________ _________________
3) c u t t i n g t a b l e ........................................ ................................................................
4 ) f u l l - l e n g t h m ir r o r . . . . . . . . ______________________ .
5 ) a to ra g e sy&oe f o r
lie * . . . .
___________________________
b ) c l o s e t span# f o r h an g in g g arm ents
________ _________________
D o t h e r work c e n t e r s ...........................................................................................
C . May sew ing b e done w ith o u t fre q u e n t
e le a r ln g a s a y f ) r o tife r u s e o f space? .
________ __________________
D . iffi-te th e e a s e w ith which f l o o r o f
________ _
________
sew ing c e n te r I s c le a n e d . . . . . .
E . Do you have a d e q u a te l i g h t f o r :
1 ) l« y tim e s e w in g ? .................................................................................................
2 ) B ig h t tim e s e s l a ? . . . . . . ^ .
___________________________
X ix. Do you do most o f y o u r sew ing:
A. During th e day,____________B .a t n i g h t _________________
XX. Itould you p r e f e r having sewing c e n te r a p a r t o f , o r c lo s e to :
_I r=I f l o o r bedroom
A.
k itc h e n
D.
!.
2nd f l o o r bedroom
B.
d in in g room
C.
l i v i n g room
p ._
lau n d ry
0.
O th e r lo c a t io n
XXI. Of th e ty p e s o f sewing t h a t you h av e done.w hich do you th in k r e s u l t e d
i n th e g r e a t e s t sa v in g s i n com parison to ready-m&de a r t i c l e s :
I n f a n t s : Boys
A.U n d e rc lo th in g . .
B . S le e p in g garm ents
C . Aprons . . . . .
D. D re sse s...................
! . S k i r t s ......................
’.B lo u s e s ......................
0 . 5 h i r t s ...................
H .S u lta . . . . . .
1 . C o a ts.......................
J.H o u se h o ld Sewing
- 73XXII. COltFIDf rTIA ls (To be u se d wifchout names f o r com parison w ith
n i t lo n n l s tu d y .)
Income — Tl t h i n what ran g e does y o u r fa m ily lnooiie f a l l ?
•4 )0'-->1000 3)1000-19 % C) 2000-2999 d TOOO-Tqqq ) »1000-09991)9 0 0 0 -o v er
:
:
:____________ :____________ :
m il.
AMODHT A|?D KIND OF HOME SEWIHOt E stim a te th e number o f a r t i c l e s
Mew M ate ria l
A.O i r l s A Woment
! . S l i p s ......................
2 .P a n tle s ..................
3 .O ow na......................
4 .P a j a m a s ..................
5 . H o u seco ats.
. .
b . A urons.................. ....
7 .C o l l a r s ,c u f f s .
d ic k e y s ..................
S .B l o u s e s ,s h i r t s . .
9 . S k i r t s ......................
1 0 .Juiuoe ra . . . . .
11.J e r k i n s ..................
1 2 .House d re s s e s . .
^ .A f t e m o o n f r e s s e s
1 4 .F o ra a l d r e s s e s , .
i 5 .J a c k .e t 9 ..................
lb . H acks . . . . .
I / . S n o w -su its, s k is u its . . . . . .
I . S u i t s ......................
1 9 .Co a t ..........................
B.Boys and Meat
PO.-rIid e rc lo th ln g . .
21 .P a j a m a s ..................
2 2 .S h i r t s
23 .~ ro u s e rs
2 4 .S u i t s . .
2 5 . Snoae-s u i t e
PO.J a c k e ts .
27,Coats . .
. R en o v a te d .. .Hew M at. . . e ria l
p
. .....
..
.
•*
.
f
-74
m il.
(c o n V ii)
tfar t l u a I l h P A l )Hi P r e - w^r 1)40 & 1941
Hew M at- . Iteaov& ted.. .Hew M&t- .R enovated
e rla l
___________. . . e r l a l
.__________
C . I n f a n t* s wears
26.!31&per8 . . . .
._________ . . .
2 ; . O e rtru d e a
. . .
.
...
3 0 . Batiyrobea . . .
.
.. .
3 1 . B u n tin g s . . . .
.
... ,
J S .S le e n e r s . . . .
,. r. ........................................................
3 3 . c la y s u i t s . .
............
....................
34. Bcaapers . . . .
___________. ___________ . . ♦ ............ . __________
_______________________.......... ................ . . .
3 5 . D resaea . . . .
36. Shi r t ,p a n t s , s u i t a
.
..
. . . ___________ -__________
37 .C o at .....................
.___________ . . . __________ . __________
D. f'o u seh o ld Sewing:
3 ? .C u r ta in s ,d r ^ e r ie s ........................................... . . . ...........
■.
3 9 .T o W e l3 ................... ......................... . ___________ . . . __________ . --------------BO. S heet s . . . . .
. . . ........................ .
41 .P illo w c a s e s . .
.
........ ...... . . . ___________ . .................
BP. Q u ilta , COBifo r t e r s ......................................... ......................... ____________
0 3 .S p resd s . . . .
. ....................-« .__________ . ................
Mi.T a b l© cloths . .
.
♦ , . ............ , . ...
45 • R spklns ,p la c e
c o v e r s ................
♦
. . _____ __ ______ ______
46. S lip c o v e rs . .
. • ........... . . .,
4 7 . TJphola te r y . . .
. ___________ . ___________ .
— 75 —
APPESMX B
S l l South %th S tr e e t
Bo aettgin,Kontanft
To th e Horaemakere o f Bozeman:
S h o r tly a f t e r P e a r l H a A o rs some o f you sig n e d th e fo llo w in g p le d g e :
" I w i l l buy c a r e f u l l y ---- I w ill ta k e c a r e o f th e th in g s I have------ I w ill
w a ste n o t d n g * . Everyone h a s done h e r p a r t e a g e rly and u n s t i n t in g ly w ith
e x c e lle n t r e s u l t # i n vazgr l i n e s , a few p r o j e c t s b e in g : r a i s i n g o f V ic to ry
G ardens, p re s e rv a tio n , o f fo o d s , a s s i s t i n g w ith Red C ross s u r g ic a l d re s s ­
in g s , -nd s e r v in g a s Murse 13 A id es.
%ow, sees s to be th e l o g i c a l tim e f o r more c o n c e n tra te d e f f o r t s on a
p rogr-m o f c lo th in g c o n s e rv a tio n . We h av e b een made aw are o f th e n e c e s s ity
o f such c o n s e rv a tio n th ro u g h many c h a n n e ls , b u t l i t t l e em phasis h as been
p la c e d upon t h i s ph&se o f "IkM se-front d e fe n se " i n o u r COMraanlty. f o r t h i s
re a s o n , we a r e und r ta ld n g a su rv ey o f home sewing p r a c t i c e s , d i f f i c u l t i e s
and f a c i l i t i e s i n a r e p r e s e n ta tiv e group o f l o c a l homes. W hile th e r e s u l t s
o f t i l l s stu d y w i l l b e m ain ly o f I n t e r e s t to Besemto homemakers, we b e lie v e
th e h a b i t s , n e ed s and d e s ir e s o f t h i s group c o n s t i t u t e a f a i r c r o s s - s e c tio n
o f a l l Montana hocusrekers.
Haw m a t e r i a l s n o rm a lly u s e d f o r c i v i l i a n o lo tn ln g and h o u seh o ld te x tile s
fire no# b e in g d iv e r te d to m i l i t a r y n e e d s. One r e p o r t s t a t e s , t h a t r f t ^ r a
fo u r-d a y b a t t l e a t th e f r o n t , l i a l f o f th e s o l d i e r who to o k p a r t have to b e
c o m p le te ly r e - o u t f i t t e d , and a f t e r a s ix -d a y b a t t l e , a l l o f them m e t be
r e - c lo th e d . T h is means t h a t we a r e © sing t o have to "buy c a r e f u l ly —
c a r e f o r w tot we h a v e -— and w aste nothin^; ' . 1Xdie more we do f o r o u rs e lv e s ,
th e more we w ill be a s s i s t i n g th e war e f f o r t .
H l l you h e lp us to com plete t h i s su rv e y by s e t t i n g a s id e o n e -h a lf to
OM h o u r o f y o u r a lre a d y f i l l e d tim e , to g iv e u s the in fo rm a tio n we need?
We A a l l be g l? ti to send you a s u g a r y o f th e c o a c l is ic n s i n which we p la n
to o f f e r , f i r s t , s u g g e s tio n s f o r so lv in g some o f th e M n d i f f i c u l t i e s
enoounr, er»d i n sew ing, and second, to f o m o l t e v a rio u s p la n e f o r improv­
in g sewln^j c e n te r s w ith o u t n e c e s s a r ily r e q u i r i n g m ajor s t r u c t u r a l changes
n th e h: m es. We f e e l tim t sew in c e n te r s d e se rv e more a t t e n t i o n t o p la n ­
n in g th a n th e y have re c e iv e d i n th e p a s t , and should p a r a l l e l o u r modern
k itc h e n s i n a t t r a c t i v e n e s s , i n t e r e s t and co n v en ien ce.
W ill y o u p le a s e f i l l o u t th e e n c lo s e d sc h e d u le and r e t u r n i n th e s e l f a d d re s s e d stam ped envelope? We th an k you f o r y o u r co-o o r a t i o n in h e lp in g
u s to make t h i s su rv ey .
/s /
Ap roved by:
/S / G ladys B ranegan
A d v iso r
Tery t r u l y y o u rs
Mary R e tsste o n
M&zy w e tzste o n
G raduate S tu d e n t
Mont n a s t a t e C o lle g e
-
/6
_
a ppk n m X c
IKSTKKnirKS JOB JTMJKG OUT HOKB SBWIHG SUHJBT SCHlIJtJLE
I f f o r any re a so n homemaker does n o t w ish to answ er an y q u e s tio n ,w r ite
i n I .A. (no answ er) to ln d i n t e t h a t i t was n o t o v e r-lo o k e d , q u e s tio n s n o t
answ ered 'uecause o f o t h - r re a s o n s ehoulu be c ro s s e d o u t.
I . Kanes may be o m itte d i f d e s ir e d . However, th e o r i g i n a l s h e e ts a r e
n o t u se d a f t e r d t a a r e tr a n s f e r r e d to c a r d s , where p e rs o n a l i d e n t i t y
I s l o s t . Karnes a r e d e s ir e d o n ly when n e c e s s a ry to re -c n e c k s«xe<hile
w ith hoiaet:ta k e rs.
I I . * In d lc t * number o f p e rs o n s by ( I ) , ( 2 ) , e t c e te r a i n
I I I . th e p ro p e r so a c e s.
T. I f h c u eo a k e r h a s no o u ts id e o c c u p a tio n , w rite none below q u e s tio n .
O th e rw ise, in d i c a t e ty p e o r k in d o f ecpleym ent.
T I. M t rooms and h a l l s e r e to be o m itte d i n c o u n tin g reams*
T I I . B) I n c r e a s e i n fa m ily needs means I n c r e a s e i n s l a e o f fa m ily .
V III . B) I n d ic a te i f p o s s i b l e , th e ^ a r t i c u l ' r f i t t i n g n r o b lm a .
G) I n f lu e n c e on tim e sad energy
IX . E s tim a te normal w eekly avern#;®. Show i n a d d itio n , th e number o f
weeks o f i n te n s iv e se a so n a l sew ing w ith in th e y e a r .
X. E stim a te p e rc e n t a s I 3 /b o r 75 p e r c e n t. Be s u re t o t a l e q u a ls 100
p e r c e n t.
X I. B seed on weekly sc h e d u le , e«ae a s w a sh in g ,lr o n i n , e t c e te r a .
X II. 3) S e a so n a l. I n d ic a te th e seaso n i n which th e m e t sew ing i s done
C) I r r e g u l a r . P la n s a d ju s te d to f i t n eed s and o th e r a c t i v i t i e s .
T H . In d ic r te r e l a t i c n s h i ' o f meeaber
XT. I n d l e r t e k in d o f a s s is ta n c e
XTI. Home tr & ln ia r may b e from m o th er, n e ig h b o r, o r s e l f .
XTII . A) I f t r e a d l e es&cliine h a s m o to r a t t a c h e d ,i n d i c a t e a s e l e c t r i c
3) I n d ic a te k in d o f a tta e n m e n t m ost commonly u s e d
G) Sewing k i t may be box, s u itc a s e ,b a g ,p o r ta b le s ta n d ,s c r e e n ,e t
c e te ra .
K) s a d - ir o n s may be in d ic a te d &e n o n -re g ila fte d
K .2) A l a r g e ,
low -hung m ir ro r may b e checked a s a f u l l - l e n g t h
m ir r o r .
X V III. Ver^r good — - c o m e r o f room, sewing c l o s e t w ith window, o r sew ing
room
S a tis ff^ c to ry — moat o f l a r g e equipm ent c e n t r a l l y lo c a te d
P o o r — Bo o r g a n iz a tio n o f equipment
D) ■ a l l y c le a n e d f l o o r — lin o le u m , cowjBleuiu ru g , hard-w ood, e t
c e te ra .
XXI. 8s*ae a r t i c l e s i n h o u seh o ld sew ing on which th e r e a r e g r e a te s t s a v in g s .
XXII. Incorue I e needed f o r com parison w ith a r t lo n s l s tu d y ; w ill b e t r e a t e d
c o n f i d e n t i a l l y and i n no e a s e u s e d w ith any names.
X X III. R eno vations in c lu d e o n ly m ak in g -o v er o f g a R aenta ; n o t to ln d lu d e
e n d i n g o r a l t e r r t i o n a o f hems, e t c e t e r a . S h e e ts may be in c lu d e d ,
i f c u t down o r rem ade.
-7 7 —
APPKfiQIX B
ASSISTABTS AMB SMlLVS SWLIfIBR GOKPL TTtD
Wo. o f
amm tlona& ires
A ssleS& ala
R A lIa tln C ounty Hlgb Sciiool Hcee
Sc Jioulca T e a eb e rs ............................................
IciFrgon J u n i o r High School Hoae
co itoialc a T e & c h e r .................. .........................
Otfi- r A s s is ta n t . . . . . . . . . . . .
Hmmrn
M e t ^ d l e t Church ..............................................
A A H W Book C l u b ............................................
DRiaes Club . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mort.on Cfnurcb . . . . . . . . . . . . .
S t.J a e e g E n lscop«l Church . . . . . . .
C h r is tia n Church ..............................................
i e a l l Pa jrir JiUrs ry Settool . . . . . . .
B a p tis t Church . . . . . . .........................
P r e a b y te rla n Claireh G u ild .............................
Moal nf i s t a t e C o lle g e A irsery
c h o :l P a r e n ts . . . . . . . . . . . . .
A rts end C r a f ts Club . . . . . . . . . .
H asth o m e P a re n t T e a c a e rs A s s o c ia tio n ..
Im erson P a re n t Te&cher A s s o c ia tio n . . .
G a l l a t i n S e e l P ea C om pany...................... ....
South Met o d i s t Church .................................
q u e s tio n n a ir e s d i s t r i b u t e d by m a il and
s e c - r e d by v yraonfil in te rv ie w . . . . . . . .
T o ta ls
81
%
l fi
137
9
9
9
9
8
7
6
4
3
3
3
3
3
51
SS
- J i
?76
■mm
J S
—
APPlHia X K
GOMMITTFlS ASSISTING IN COMPUTING AiEBAGI SCf'RES POB
AiffICLlS OF KOMK SEWING
C ocm lttee o t hcueaudEera i
M rs,
Wfg.
Mrs.
Mr s .
M rs.
N rs.
M rs.
M n.
M rs.
U. T . G r i f f i t h
T . Booth H o lk e r
I . B. K e lle r
H. C. K orslnad
C a rl K raeneel
8 . I* Maleor
A. H. P o s t
H. E. Jtodeberg
H» M. W hite
Co. .Lilttf-e o f h o se ic o n m ls ta :
M iss L iO lle A le x an d e r
T e a c h e r,G a ll t i n County Hi#k School
M iss G e ra ld in e C lew ell
A s s is ta n t P r o f e s s o r , Montana. S t a t e C o lle g e
M iss M artlia H ensley
C lo th in g S p e c i a l i s t , Modtoia Home l-Ce m a l e s E x ten sio n S e rv ic e
lfla s Ruth HolUaes
A s s is ta n t P ro fe s o r ,Montana S ta te C o lleg e
M rs.M a rjo rle P s la le y
I /•.3t r a c t r , Montnns S ta te C o lle g e
M lee lo n e P a rk e r
T e a c h e r,Xmeraon J u n io r High sch o o l
Mlas A le s T org r s o a
A s s is ta n t Olre c to r,M o n tan a F a m s e c u r ity A d m in is tra tio n
MONTANA STATE UNIVERSITY - BOZEMAN
IN 378""
W53d
^zsteon,
I
Sbffie s S M
Mrs. M.M.
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ISSU ED t o
'4 6'
- 6 ’49
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rn? '%o /r•-• ^nrr
N ^ W ln te Z I J B R A
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