Lewis and Clark National Historical Park Windshield Survey of Potentially Eligible National Register Properties By Douglas Deur, Ph.D. PNW Cooperative Ecosystem Studies Unit University of Washington May 2009 PNW CESU NATIONAL PARK SERVICE COLLEGE OF FOREST RESOURCES BOX 352100 UNIVERSITY OF WASHINGTON SEATTLE, WASHINGTON 980195-2100 Completed under Cooperative Agreement H8W07060001between the University of Washington and the National Park Service. Lewis and Clark National Historical Park Windshield Survey of Potentially Eligible National Register Properties The current study represents the outcome of a reconnaissance survey of properties within the recently expanded Lewis and Clark National Historical Park (LEWI), as well as LEWI’s partner parks that are managed by Oregon and Washington state parks. This reconnaissance survey has been undertaken both to assist the National Park Service resource managers in meeting their compliance mandates for the expanded park unit, but also to aid in research being undertaken regarding the viability of the proposed Columbia-Pacific National Heritage Area, consisting of Pacific and Wahkiakum Counties in Washington state and Clatsop County, Oregon. National Register Bulletin 24 defines reconnaissance level surveys of historic properties in this way: “Reconnaissance may be thought of as a "once over lightly" inspection of an area, most useful for characterizing its resources in general and for developing a basis for deciding how to organize and orient more detailed survey efforts. In conjunction with a general review of pertinent literature on the community's past, a reconnaissance may involve such activities as…windshield survey” (NPS 1984: 12). As outlined in the task agreement between the National Park Service (NPS) and the University of Washington, this reconnaissance level survey was to specifically involve “windshield surveys,” involve “literally driving around the community” and noting properties that might warrant nomination to the National Register, as well as their visible attributes that might help to clarify their National Register potential as well as to ascertain future research needs to differentiate and ultimately nominate properties to the Register. As the National Park Service is not authorized to prepare National Register nominations for privately owned lands, the current survey focuses only on those lands managed by the National Park Service, or managed by Oregon and Washington’s State Park systems. Attached is the summary of findings from repeat windshield surveys by Dr. Douglas Deur (University of Washington) over the course of spring and fall 2008; in a November 2008 repeat survey, Deur was assisted by Steven Mark, a NPS Historian with National Register expertise. In addition to providing general observations of possible National Register eligible properties, this report contains preliminary recommendations for National Register nominations for all 11 components of the Lewis and Clark National 1 Historical Park and its partner park units that are managed by Oregon and Washington state parks. These include: 1) Ecola State Park (Oregon State Parks) 2) The Salt Works (National Park Service) 3) Sunset Beach State Recreation Area (Oregon State Parks) 4) Fort to Sea Trail (NPS managed, various owners, including NPS) 5) Sunset Beach State Recreation Area (Oregon State Parks) 6) Fort Clatsop, within the expanded boundary (NPS) 7) Fort Stevens State Park (Oregon State Parks) 8) Dismal Nitch (NPS) 9) Station Camp (NPS) 10) Fort Columbia State Park (Washington State Parks) 11) Cape Disappointment State Park (Washington State Parks, NPS and others) Based on this preliminary analysis, revised National Register nominations are tentatively recommended for a total of two properties, while a new nomination is recommended for one additional property. Revised nominations would center on one National Park Service property (Fort Clatsop National Historic District) and one property owned by Washington State Parks and the National Park Service (Cape Disappointment National Historic District), while a new nomination may be required for one property that is owned solely by Washington State Parks (Chinook Point National Historical Landmark at Fort Columbia State Park). Washington State Parks has expressed interest in the possible review, revision, or replacement of the existing nominations for their park units as part of this NPS sponsored initiative. Consultation will be necessary before and during any further documentation of properties on these Washington State Park lands, to insure that State Park staff continue to be involved with, and support, the research and potential revision of nominations for their properties. Oregon State Parks has opted to not participate in the development of new or revised National Register nominations. Nonetheless, this document contains summary recommendations for possible National Register listings or revisions in these Oregon parks, for reference use only. Potential opportunities for multiple property nominations and districts are noted in the text that follows, though it is likely that these districts would be of considerable scale and possibly beyond the scope of the current project; if such districts were developed, additional park properties might be considered for nomination from the list of eleven park areas. Photos and additional field notes were taken of key elements for those properties proposed for revised nominations. Further research on each of these properties will continue in the months ahead for use in possible revised nominations. Clearly, each of the places identified here was visited by members of the Corps of Discovery and has 2 Park Area Property Names Ownership NR Status Ecola State Park Indian Point Site Ecola Point Site Bald Point Site Indian Creek Village Site Fort Clatsop National Monument (Salt Works) Oregon Parks & Recreation Department NR documentation for archaeo sites prepared 1984, 1997; expanded nomination possible NR documentation prepared 1988; revision unnecessary NA The Salt Works National Park Service Fort to Sea Trail Various (NPS managed) Oregon Parks & Recreation Department National Park Service Sunset Beach State Recreation Area Fort Clatsop Fort Stevens State Park Fort Clatsop National Historical District Fort Stevens Military Reservation Dismal Nitch Oregon Parks & Recreation Department National Park Service Station Camp National Park Service Fort Columbia State Park Cape Disappointment State Park Chinook Point National Historical Landmark Cape Disappointment Historic District Washington State Parks Washington State Parks, NPS and other NA NR nomination 1988; revisions needed NR nomination 1971; revisions needed NA; to be included in revised LEWI nomination Draft NR nomination still being developed NHL documentation prepared 1978; revisions needed NR nomination 1975; revisions needed some level of significance in the Lewis and Clark story that contributed to their acquisition by the NPS or their inclusion as a LEWI partner park. As the role of these properties in the Lewis and Clark story is well documented both in the Corps of Discovery’s journals (Moulton 1990, 1996) and in a variety of NPS literatures, specific references to Lewis and Clark’s visit are not included in this document, except to the extent that this might, by their individual significance, affect the property’s potential National Register status. It is conceivable that all of the parks indicated here could be included in a multi-property district focusing on key sites from the Corps of Discovery’s stay on the lower Columbia River in the winter of 1805-06. Other themes shared by multiple LEWI park segments on both sides of the river, with extant properties or sites that meet National Register criteria, include the militarization of the Columbia River 3 and Native American history and culture. Here too, multiple property nominations or districts could be conceptualized that bring together these park properties on both sides of the Columbia River. There is also the possibility of a new MPD or revisions to existing nominations that would unify the discontinuous segments of LEWI, including Fort Clatsop, Fort Columbia, and Cape Disappointment, and reference the other units in order to tell the entire story. 4 Ecola State Park Ecola State Park consists of a rugged series of headlands and rocky beaches fronting the open Pacific Ocean. The park’s historical significance is multifaceted, including archaeological Nehalem-Tillamook village sites, sites from the Lewis and Clark Expedition story, CCC development of park infrastructure, and a military facility on the top of Tillamook Head. The strongest National Register link likely centers on two aspects of the park – first, the significance of landmarks in the park as historic sites related to the Lewis and Clark story, and second, the archaeological resources of the park. Places such as Clark’s Point of View and Indian Beach receive prominent mention in the Lewis and Clark journals and might be included as part of a larger district centered on the park, or a multiproperty district including other locations from outside of the park related to the Lewis and Clark party. The suitability of these sites for independent National Register listing is debatable, as they do not appear to meet the criteria for individual listing. In the context of a historic district, or possibly a discontinuous historic district, these properties may meet the criteria for listing. The National Register listed archaeological sites within the park might be candidates for relisting as part of an archaeological district, including the Indian Point Site (35-CLT34), Bald Point Site (35-CLT-23), Ecola Point Site (35-CLT-21), and Indian Creek Village Site (35-CLT-12), and any other archaeological sites that might be identified in the park but as yet remain unlisted. These sites are already listed, however, as part of an existing multiple property district – the Native American Archaeological Sites of the Oregon Coast MPS. The Indian Point and Indian Creek Village Sites are apparently part of the village noted by Clark in January of 1806, and these villages are all part of a Nehalem-Tillamook settlement complex centered on the resources and rugged shoreline of the open coast (Minor 1991). Little is left from the CCC efforts at Ecola. The picnic shelter at Ecola Point appears to contain elements of original rockwork, but elsewhere, rockwork clearly dates from recent decades; extensive remodeling and replacement of built elements have eliminated much of the structure’s integrity. Little else of the original CCC construction remains, following the cataclysmic landslide of 1961, which swept much of the park’s developed picnic area into the sea (Schlicker, et al 1961). The park’s trails may meet National Register criteria, being approximations of the original tribal trails followed by William Clark’s party, reestablished in part by CCC crews; the trails have clearly been rerouted in a number of places, but portions of the original trail apparently remain. Existing documentation on CCC work in the park is apparently limited, and Deur has on file all of the available State Parks/CCC archival materials relating to these activities. 5 Offshore from Ecola State Park – and not in federal ownership at this date – is the Tillamook Rock Lighthouse, which is already listed on the National Register. A final historical property, the World War II bunker on the top of Tillamook Head and the military road accessing this bunker are of debatable National Register significance. A case could be made that these military features would be eligible for National Register listing as part of a multiple-property district focused on the military history of the Columbia River mouth. Independent of such a district, it is unlikely that the Tillamook Head bunker and military road would merit individual listing. The view from the Ecola Point Site (35-CLT-21), one of four National Register listed archaeological sites at Ecola State Park, 2002 6 Salt Works The Salt Works consists of a single city lot within Seaside, Oregon – roughly 15 miles south of Fort Clatsop – with facilities intended to commemorate the use of that site by members of the Corps of Discovery for salt making during the winter of 1805-06. No physical remains of the original salt making operation remains; the original salt works was reported in the Lewis and Clark journals to be located near a village of Clatsops and Nehalem-Tillamooks, and it was on the basis of tribal oral tradition, documented in 1899/1900, that the current monument was sited. The Oregon Historical Society developed the original Salt Works commemorative site in the first decade of the 20th century, acquiring the land through donation and placing a fenced enclosure around rocks found on the site that were believed to be from the original salt cairn. In 1925, the Great Northern Railway funded improvements of the site, including iron fences, brick corner posts and a sidewalk, in an effort to enhance tourist attractions in the Seaside area. During Lewis and Clark Sesquicentennial celebrations in 1955, the Seaside Lions Club added other features, including commemorative plaques, and a stone and concrete “reconstruction” of the original salt cairn placed atop rocks identified as part of the original cairn (Cannon 1995). The property was owned by the Oregon Historical Society and managed by the Seaside Lions Club (though the City of Seaside had limited involved in its management) until the land was incorporated into Fort Clatsop National Memorial and NPS management in 1978. Each organization has added to the interpretive functions of the site in turn. The commemorative cairn reconstruction and enclosure at the Salt Works, November 2008 7 The built landscape at the Salt Cairn reflects the gradual accretion of commemorative structures outlined above. A stone and concrete replica of the salt cairn used by the Corps of Discovery apparently dating from 1955 is enclosed in a concrete, stone and brick enclosure with wrought metal fences and gates, most of which dates from 1925. Some sources suggest that rocks originally found on the site in primary archaeological context were incorporated into the cairn replica (Cannon 1995). Commemorative metal plaques are found on a free-standing stone and two brick columns of the cairn enclosure. A simple, low rock boundary encircles the front (north) end of the property. The existing National Register nomination (1988 revision of original 1966 administrative nomination) focuses primarily on the significance of the site in the story of the Lewis and Clark Expedition. The nomination may require revision in light of the commemorative structures at the site, which date from the 1920s and 1950s, in addition to the relatively new signage added by the NPS. These commemorative structural features were addressed briefly in the 1988 revised nomination for Fort Clatsop National Monument (Northrop and Toothman 1988). Any revised nomination might invite further documentation on the genesis and chronology of these built features. Oregon Historical Society and Seaside History Museum records can be consulted for documentation, along with the FOCL Administrative History and LEWI Archives. Oral history may fill gaps in these other written sources, if needed. 8 Sunset Beach State Recreation Area There are no properties at the Sunset Beach State Recreation Area that appear to warrant National Register listing. The site is not clearly identified in the Lewis and Clark journals, even if the journals do allude to accessing the beach somewhere in this area. The site does provide opportunities for interpretation and HRS treatment related to transportation themes, including the historic wagon road that accessed the beach nearby, as well as the continued use of the beach as an official state highway – part of former Governor Oswald West’s effort to preserve Oregon’s beaches in public ownership. The village site reported by Lewis and Clark to the north of Sunset Beach, on what are today Fort Rilea lands, may also warrant discussion. The Neacoxie River’s flow reversed in the decades following the Corps of Discovery, causing the effective disappearance of the estuary on which this village sat by the mid-19th century; recent ground penetrating radar investigations by Dr. Curt Peterson (Portland State University, Department of Geology) and others have revealed the contours of this historic estuary. Additional documentation of this location is available in the LEWI Archives. The pending addition of the Yeon family properties to the south of Sunset Beach State Recreation Area will add considerably to the recreational and scenic values of the site, but is unlikely to add any National Register properties to park management. 9 Fort to Sea Trail The Fort to Sea trail traverses a wide range of landscapes, from upland forests within the LEWI boundary to a series of dune ridges and cow pastures where the NPS holds easements on private agricultural and residential properties. The trail very roughly approximates the route sometimes taken by members of the Corps of Discovery from Fort Clatsop to the ocean beach, but it is unlikely that the current trail overlaps with the original trail. As noted in the park’s General Management Plan of Lewis and Clark’s original trail to the sea, “The actual route and location of this trail have never been determined…In spite of landscape information provided in the journal entries and accompanying maps, the precise nature of a water or overland trail system used by the Expedition remains almost impossible to verify because of dramatic changes that have taken place in the landscape in the past 200 years” (NPS 1995: 75-76). The current trail configuration represents an attempt by the NPS (and Congress, which mandated this effort) to provide recreational opportunities to visitors and to replicate the experience of walking between the Fort and the sea without necessarily following in the footsteps of Lewis and Clark (NPS 1995). The precise original route of the trail is unknown and probably not recoverable at this date. At the time that the NPS proposed and acquired the easements, no specific cultural or historical resources were reported along its route. An initial review of properties along this trail reveals little that would merit National Register listing along the federally-owned portion of the trail. A wagon road follows the approximate route of the Fort-to-Sea Trail through the expanded Fort Clatsop lands. This wagon road was constructed between Lewis and Clark and Skipanon Rivers by William Smith with Chinese laborers; in the late 19th century this road served as a principal route for Portland travelers who arrived by steamboat at Fort Clatsop and then traveled by wagon en route to the resort community of Seaside. Ruts from this wagon road have recently been found within the park (Deb Wood, pers. comm. 2009). A mill site and ferry landing has been reported on the Skipanon River a short distance downstream from the Fort to Sea Trail bridge over this river. These elements provide an opportunity to interpret the transportation and lumbering history of the region, and a pier visible downstream from the bridge may relate to these uses. Still, the integrity of these features has been largely compromised and there is nothing along this trail in federal ownership that appears to merit National Register listing. The 1986-88 revised 10 nomination for Fort Clatsop National Memorial provided a description of the Fort to Sea Trail, as it was proposed at the time; this documentation is likely sufficient for any National Register mandates pertaining to the trail (Northrop and Toothman 1988). Some historical properties exist on private land along the trail that merit attention in the HRS and interpretive materials, most notably the Pioneer Church – one of Oregon’s oldest churches with a congregational history dating back to 1846; a number of the Clatsop Plains’ earliest settlers are buried here, including Solomon and Celiast Smith (on this church’s history, see http://pioneerpresbyterian.com/history.html). The trail also traverses agricultural lands, including grazing areas for dairying and beef cattle, and in the vicinity of lands that had been used for daffodil cultivation prior to World War II. 11 Fort Clatsop The expanded boundaries of the Fort Clatsop portion of LEWI contain a number of properties of minor historical importance. Fort Clatsop was originally listed administratively on the National Register in 1966, with no documentation prepared. In 1988, a revised nomination encompassing the entire Fort Clatsop National Monument as it existed in the late 1980s, centering on Fort Clatsop proper, was completed by Northrop and Toothman (1988). It is recommended that an amendment to the existing National Register nomination be prepared to incorporate the expanded geographical boundary as well as any themes not fully addressed in the 1988 document. The amended nomination might review and incorporate information regarding Donation Land Claims within the expanded boundary from the General Land Office records, and expand on information on commemorative uses of the Fort Clatsop site in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Also, any new information collected in the process of rebuilding the fort in 2006 should also be incorporated into the document. Individual property listings are likely not warranted for the lands brought into the memorial through the recent expansion, as they do not have the significance or integrity for listing in the NRHP. While the Fort Clatsop site has a long history of informal visitation and commemoration, formal commemoration of Fort Clatsop began in 1901, when the Oregon Historical Society acquired roughly three acres of land at the reputed Fort site. The tract was expanded to roughly five acres and a plaque placed on the site in 1928. In 1955, various community organizations collaborated to construct a replica of the Fort and other commemorative markers on the site (Cannon 1995; NPS 1995; Hussey 1957a). Cultural resources on the fort site are relatively few and most have been adequately summarized in the existing National Register nomination. The park has tended to manage the landscape, including vegetation, with an eye toward its capacities as a cultural landscape: “As a historic site, the primary cultural landscape resource is the reconstructed physical setting which provides an overall interpretive environment for the site” (NPS 1995: 75). The southern extension of Fort Clatsop, encompassing the Netul Landing properties, front tidally-influenced sections of the Lewis and Clark River in which there are numerous well-preserved pilings. These pilings have been used to secure rafts of cut logs in preparation for their shipment to area mills, and a “wet sort yard,” where rafted logs were sorted as to size, species, and quality prior to milling, operated at this site. These pilings are in generally good condition, though it is clear that the pilings have been periodically replaced, and a number of metal pilings stand where wooden pilings were once found. If anything, these pilings may be of regional but more likely local significance if that, but do not appear to have the integrity for listing in the NRHP due 12 to the deterioration of the structure and its missing components. New materials (metal) may have further compromised the integrity of the setting and materials of the original wooden pilings. To ascertain their regional significance, a statewide survey would be required. Only a small portion of these pilings are on federal lands, but most are in navigable waters owned by the State of Oregon’s Department of State Lands. The NPS does not typically nominate properties that are not under federal management or ownership. Cumulatively, these facts suggest that a separate nomination is not warranted, but that the theme of historic log storage might be included within the expanded Fort Clatsop nomination. Certainly, these remnant landscape features will warrant attention in the HRS as well as offer an opportunity for NPS interpretation at the site. The LEWI Archives contains additional information regarding these piers and their history. Pilings of diverse antiquity and materials in the tidewater adjacent to Netul Landing, November 2008 13 At Otter Point, a former county road lines the wetland-upland interface, though it is much modified and partially decommissioned. Features along this road, including occasional fence posts, appear to date from the time when this road was active and relate to the agricultural history of the property. So too, the dike surrounding the Otter Point wetland dates from the early 20th century and, while lacking National Register significance, also relates to the expanded park’s agricultural history. (Importantly, portions of this dike are now slated for demolition as part of an estuarine rehabilitation project overseen by the LEWI Chief of Resources, an activity will require Section 106 compliance be completed prior to construction.) While not warranting a separate nomination because they do not appear to have the significance and/or integrity for listing in the NRHP, these features warrant mention in the amended park nomination form. In addition, the value of the restored Otter Point site in helping to reconstruct the “cultural landscape” of the larger Fort Clatsop site may warrant mention in the revised nomination. The western expansions of the park include lands that were largely second- and thirdgrowth industrial forest. Portions of these lands were formerly within Donation Land Claims and some effort should be directed to sorting out the succession of these claims within the HRS. As mentioned in the Fort to Sea Trail section of this report, a wagon road is reported within the Fort Clatsop expansion, and documentation on this road should be produced as part of the HRS. 14 Fort Stevens State Park Owned by the Bureau of Land Management and leased/managed by Oregon State Parks, Fort Stevens State Park contains a number of well-documented historical properties. If National Register nominations were considered for this park, this would involve the amendment of the existing National Register nomination. The existing documentation of National Register eligible properties focuses especially on the military history of this park, with military sites and structures dating from the Civil War through World War II. Civil War era earthworks are being documented and partially reconstructed in the park. Battery Mischler consists of a gun battery on the Columbia River mouth, as well as the former underground command post for all of the Columbia River forts. Battery Russell, a gun battery facing the ocean entrance to the Columbia River, was fired upon by a Japanese submarine during World War II – the only military battle of that war in the contiguous 48 states. The Pacific Rim Peace Memorial sits adjacent to Battery Russell, while commemorative markers have been placed at points where Japanese shells struck the ground. Officers’ quarters and other residential structures are found in the northern portion of the park, and may be of architectural as well as historical significance in some cases. These military features might serve as the focus of a multi-park nomination centering on the militarization of the Columbia River mouth and citing the original Fort Stevens National Register nomination. In addition to these military features, there are a number of other elements that would require inclusion in any revised nomination. A significant Clatsop Indian village sat at the location where Battery Mischler is now located. This village was visited by a number of early explorers and is mentioned in various written accounts of the late-18th and early 19th century coast. This village was the centerpiece of the proposed Clatsop reservation that was reserved in the tribe’s Tansy Point treaty, but never realized when that treaty was not ratified. The forced relocation of the Clatsop from this village at the time of fort construction is itself a topic worthy of mention in a revised nomination, as well as the HRS and subsequent interpretive efforts. Moreover, Fort Stevens contains the sites of several shipwrecks, including the still-visible remains of the Peter Iredale, a British barque that wrecked in 1906. The south jetty of the Columbia River was constructed in what is now the park in 1885-95 (and augmented thereafter) to protect oceangoing vessels that traversed this bar; pilings and other landmarks from an historic rail line associated with the construction of the south jetty also traverse the park. No matter whether Oregon State Parks might wish to amend the existing National Register nomination for Fort Stevens, these themes will receive attention in the Historic Resource Study. 15 Dismal Nitch On the basis of existing landmarks, there is no apparent basis for National Register listing at Dismal Nitch. The site may have significance as a location of importance within the larger Lewis and Clark story, and may warrant inclusion in a multi-property nomination centering on this theme. Individual listing on the basis of this criterion, however, does not appear warranted. However, the site might be included within a larger nomination of Lewis and Clark National Historical Park, or as an outlying site within a revised nomination of Fort Clatsop. A number of well-preserved pilings from historic salmon canneries line the shoreline adjacent to Dismal Nitch. These pilings are apparently from a fish receiving station that was constructed in the 1880s, and have been modified through roughly 1961 for subsequent riverfront uses (Appelo 1966: 14). These pilings have been the focus of an archaeological survey by Smits, et al. (2005). These pilings may be of local significance, but probably not of statewide or national significance and not eligible individually, due especially to their lack of integrity. The piers that are found along the Columbia River tidewater might be considered as contributing elements to a larger multi-property district associated with the history of salmon fishing on the river. However, here – as in the Netul Landing case – these pilings are located in navigable waters and are therefore beyond the geographical limits of NPS ownership and management authority. Exceptions include those pilings that apparently are now buried below fill material that was used to create the original Washington State Department of Transportation rest area, which now occupies the southeastern portion of the Dismal Nitch property. Certainly, these pilings warrant mention in the HRS and subsequent NPS interpretation. 16 Piers mark the location of a former cannery adjacent to Dismal Nitch, November 2008 17 Station Camp Station Camp was the site of a significant Chinook settlement that was visited by Lewis and Clark and was reported to consist of no fewer than 36 longhouses at that time. The village appears in a number of travelogues of the late 18th and early 19th centuries. The site has been excavated in recent years and its historical significance, both before and after the arrival of Euro-American explorers, has been well documented by NPS staff. St Mary’s Catholic Church is clearly visible from the Station Camp site. Built in 1901, this church has been a cornerstone of the McGowan community. The church is addressed in the Section 106 documentation associated with State of Washington road realignments in this area. This church can be addressed in the HRS and subsequent interpretation at Station Camp. The existing National Register nomination for this site – largely addressing Station Camp’s archaeological resources, but also the site’s significance in the Lewis and Clark story – has been developed following the 2006 excavation of the site. This nomination is not yet complete. It may require review and revision in order to incorporate historic features other than archaeological resources. If Station Camp is to be included in a multiple property district, this nomination can be referenced within the larger multiple property nomination form. 18 Fort Columbia State Park Fort Columbia State Park contains the well-preserved remnants of a military station that aided in the defense of the Columbia River’s mouth from 1896 through the end of World War II. The property contains three gun batteries – Battery Jules Ord, Battery William Murphy and Battery Frank Crenshaw, as well as separate buildings that served as enlisted men’s and officers’ quarters. The residential buildings have been partially restored, but photographic comparisons suggest that restorations have been consistent with historical styles and materials; the gun batteries have received only minor maintenance and, though generally well-preserved, are in varying stages of deterioration. Sitting in close proximity to significant Chinook settlements, the point on which Fort Columbia sits is called “Chinook Point,” and this location also has added significance in tribal history. The point was the approximate anchoring site of Captain Robert Gray during the first recorded non-Native discovery of the Columbia River, and the site served as a prominent landmark to early navigators accessing the river by ship (Hussey 1957b). Chinook Point was designated as a National Historic Landmark in 1964, based on its significance to the voyages of Robert Gray and other explorers, as well as its military history. This nomination can be reviewed for thoroughness in terms of historical context and geographical distribution of the property. The military history of the site should be expanded upon considerably within this revised nomination. The highway tunnel through Chinook Point is listed individually on the National Register as part of the Bridges and Tunnels of Washington State MPS multiple property district, due to its importance in the transportation and engineering history of the state. 19 Detail of Fort Columbia Officers’ Quarters, November 2008 National Landmark Plaque for Chinook Point, installed at Ft. Columbia State Park in 1964 (Nov. 2008 photo) 20 Fort Columbia in 1913 (UW Electronic Archives Photo) Fort Columbia in 2008, including artillery battery and officers’ quarters, November 2008 21 Cape Disappointment State Park Cape Disappointment possesses a range of historical properties that is numerous and diverse. Cape Disappointment was of clear significance to the Chinook Indians for navigational, subsistence, and other cultural purposes; no archaeological sites appear to be listed on the National Register, but it is possible that sites recorded in the park might serve as contributing resources to a larger nomination. The Cape served as a prominent geographical feature mentioned in the accounts of most early explorers to the region, and was frequently used for shelter or navigational purposes during this time. Also, Cape Disappointment was the site of Fort Canby, one of the triad of military installations that defended the mouth of the Columbia River and also included Fort Columbia and Fort Stevens. Fort Canby was in active service from 1863 to 1947, and consisted of a number of gun batteries, as well as barracks and officers’ housing, which occupied much of the eastern and southern edges of what is today the State Park. Many of the original structures were razed in a renovation of the Fort beginning at the start of the 20th century, but three new batteries were constructed soon thereafter, including Batteries Guenther, Harvey Allen, and O’Flyng. Two other batteries were constructed solely for use during World War II. The fort was originally named Fort Cape Disappointment, but was renamed in honor of General Edward Canby who died in conflicts with Modoc Indians in what is today Lava Beds National Monument. Battery Harvey Allen, one of the three artillery batteries at Cape Disappointment, November 2008 22 Detail of WWII-era wall painting, on interior wall of Battery Harvey Allen, November 2008 In addition, two lighthouses are located on Cape Disappointment. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse was built on the headland’s southern tip and completed by 1856, while the North Head Lighthouse was built on the headland’s northwestern side in 1896 to improve visibility to ships approaching from the north. A lifesaving station formerly operated at the base of the Cape, and this station has continued to function into the present day as a Coast Guard facility. Of these navigational facilities, only North Head Lighthouse appears to be situated within the Park. The Cape Disappointment Lighthouse sits on lands managed by the U.S. Coast Guard, while Washington State Parks has been given the task of interpreting this landmark. Clearly, the facilities outside of the park warrant attention in the HRS and subsequent interpretive efforts, and may warrant consideration as part of a revised nomination for Cape Disappointment. In addition to these facilities, the Columbia River’s north jetty was constructed in 1908-1916 to protect oceangoing vessels traveling across the treacherous river bar. The jetty and rail facilities associated with its construction warrant mention as contributing resources to any revised nominations for the site. A number of shipwrecks have also been recorded around the base of Cape Disappointment. 23 The park and its constituent properties are already listed on the National Register as the Cape Disappointment Historic District, and separate documentation is on file at the Washington SHPO office for Fort Canby. This nomination might be revisited to insure that it is complete for all of these properties and themes. A historic preservation field school, conducted in the summer of 2008 at Cape Disappointment and overseen by the University of Oregon Historic Preservation Program, may have produced documentation that would inform this effort, in particular the identification of significant landscape features or remnants not previously identified in existing National Register forms. 24 Lighthouse Keepers’ Quarters at North Head Lighthouse, November 2008 North Head Lighthouse at Cape Disappointment, November 2008 25 Summary of Recommendations On the basis of project findings, we tentatively recommend the following steps: 1) Revise and expand the existing Fort Clatsop National Historic District nomination form to accommodate the expanded park boundary, including expanded documentation of Netul landing and wagon road as potential contributing properties; outlying NPS properties, specifically the Salt Works, are included in the existing nomination, and it is expected that Dismal Nitch will be added to the revised nomination; this Fort Clatsop historic district will accommodate the lands added to Fort Clatsop, proper, as well as geographical discontiguous sites that contribute to the fort story; 2) Revise and expand the existing Cape Disappointment Historic District nomination, addressing the resources and themes outlined in this report; 3) Develop a new or revised nomination for Chinook Point National Historical Landmark that addresses the resources and themes outlined in this report, including but not limited to Fort Columbia military history, Chinook tribal history, Columbia River navigational history, and the history of Northwest exploration; 4) Review Station Camp draft nomination and amend as needed to account for all contributing properties in addition to the archaeological resources already documented at this site; 5) Selectively gather documentation that could be used to revise and expand existing nominations for Fort Stevens Military Reservation and Ecola State Park, to be included in HRS; if determined necessary by park and regional office staff, in consultation with the project’s Principal Investigator and state representatives, prepare a simple annotated outline of elements needed for a revised district nomination for Fort Stevens and Ecola State Parks. 6) Compile information on all other park sections, including the Fort to Sea Trail and Sunset Beach State Recreation Area, to be included within the HRS. A meeting is recommended between the park representative, project GTR, Principal Investigator, and possibly other proposed research team members prior to August 2009; in this meeting, all participants will review and agree upon project parameters, and establish a timeline and procedures for the steps recommended here. 26 Selected Sources Appelo, Carlton E. 1966. Brookfield: The Joe Megler Story. Deep River, WA: Carlton Appelo Pub. Bartholomew, Mary Ellen 1990. Legislative History for Fort Clatsop National Memorial, Volume II, 97th Congress through 101st Congress. Seattle: NPS Pacific Northwest Regional Office. Cannon, Kelly 1995. Administrative History: Fort Clatsop National Memorial. Seattle: NPS Pacific Northwest Regional Office. Cogswell, Marilee, Cathleen Frank, and Linda Rhines 1985. Legislative History for Fort Clatsop National Memorial, 84th Congress through 96th Congress. Seattle: National Park Service Pacific Northwest Regional Library. Hussey, John 1957a. Fort Clatsop National Memorial, Suggested Historical Area Report. San Francisco: National Park Service. Hussey, John 1957b. Chinook Point and the Story of Fort Columbia. Olympia, WA: Washington State Parks and Recreation Commission. Minor, Rick 1991. Archaeological Investigations at the Ecola Point Site, Northern Oregon Coast. Coastal Prehistory Program reports. Salem, OR: Oregon State Parks and Recreation, and Eugene, OR: Oregon State Museum of Anthropology. Moulton, Gary E. 1990. The Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Volume 6: November 2, 1805March 22, 1806. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press. Moulton, Gary E. 1996. The Journals of the Lewis and Clark Expedition, Volume 10: The Journal of Patrick Gass, May 14, 1804-September 23, 1806. Lincoln: University of Nebraska Press. National Park Service 1984. Guidelines for Local Surveys: A Basis for Preservation Planning. National Register Bulletin 24. Patricia Parker, ed.; A. Derry, H.W. Jandle, C.D. Shull, and J Thorman, contributors. Washington D.C.: National Park Service Interagency Resources Division. National Park Service 1986. Resource Management Plan for Fort Clatsop National Memorial. Seattle: National Park Service, Pacific Northwest Region. 27 National Park Service 1987. Fort Clatsop National Memorial Landscape Redevelopment Plan. Seattle: National Park Service Pacific Northwest Region, Cultural Resources Division. National Park Service 1995. Fort Clatsop National Memorial: General Management Plan, Development Concept Plan, Final Environmental Impact Statement. Astoria: Fort Clatsop National Memorial. National Park Service 2003. Lower Columbia River Lewis and Clark Sites Boundary Study: A Study of Sites for Potential Addition to Lewis and Clark National Memorial. Astoria: Lewis and Clark National Memorial. National Park Service, National Register of Historic Places Program 1971. National Registers of Historic Places Inventory - Nomination Form: Fort Stevens Military Reservation, OR. Unpublished National Register nomination form. Washington, D.C.: NPS National Register of Historic Places Program. National Park Service, National Register of Historic Places Program 1975. National Registers of Historic Places Inventory - Nomination Form: Cape Disappointment Historic District, WA. Unpublished National Register nomination form. Washington, D.C.: NPS National Register of Historic Places Program. National Park Service, National Register of Historic Places Program 1978. National Registers of Historic Places Inventory - Nomination Form: Chinook Point, WA. Unpublished National Register nomination form. Washington, D.C.: NPS National Register of Historic Places Program. Northrop, Paul and Stephanie Toothman 1988. National Register of Historic Places Registration Form and Documents, Fort Clatsop, Oregon. (unpublished report, in file at Lewis and Clark National Historic Park, and Oregon State Historic Preservation Office, Warrenton and Salem, OR). Schlicker, H. G., R.E. Corcoran, and R. G. Bowen 1961. Geology of the Ecola State Park Landslide Area, Oregon. Ore Bin. 23(9): 85-90. Smits, Nicholas J., Judith A. Chapman and Jo Reese 2005. Cultural Resource Survey for the Clark’s Dismal Nitch Safety Rest Area Mater Plan, Pacific County, Washington. Archaeological Investigations Northwest, Inc. Report No. 1580. Prepared for Washington State Department of Transportation Southwest Region, Vancouver, Washington. Spaulding, Kenneth A. (ed.) 1953. On the Oregon Trail: Robert Stuart's Journey of Discovery. Norman: University of Oklahoma Press. 28 Tolon, Marsha R. 1993. Lewis and Clark National Memorial Cultural Landscape Report: Landscape Recommendations 1976-1993. Seattle: National Park Service Pacific Northwest Region, Cultural Resource Division. U.S. Coast Survey 1876. Columbia River at Young’s River and Lewis and Clark River. Survey Map No. 793. Cleveland Rockwell, cartographer. Washington, D.C.: U.S. Coast Survey. 29