Preface xii Henry Stommel xiv The Scientific Work of Henry Stommel Arnold B. Arons xiv A Theoretical Model of Henry Stommel George Veronis xix Notes Related to Stommel's Early Years in Woods Hole Raymond B. Montgomery xxiv Henry Stommel G.E.R. Deacon Life and Work of Henry Stommel-On F.C. Fuglister xxv the Light Side xxvi Henry Stommel Xxviii Introduction 2 Part One General Ocean Circulation 5 I Deep Circulation of the World Ocean I.I Introduction 6 I.2 Bruce A. Warren Historical Development of Ideas about the Deep Circulation 6 I .3 A Dynamical Framework 7 II I .4 Sources of Deep Water I5 1.5 Deep Western Boundary Currents in the World Ocean 2 The Water Masses of the World Ocean: Some Results of a Fine-Scale Census L. V. Worthington 42 26 I.6 Why Is There a Deep Thermohaline Circulation At All? 38 Notes 40 2.1 Introduction 42 2.2 Methods of Describing the Oceans 43 2.3 The World Water Masses As They Exist in the Second Half of This Century 44 2.4 The Formation of Water Masses 57 Appendix: Census of World-Ocean Water Masses with Classes and Rank by Division by Bivariate (°C x %/oo) Volume 60 vi Contents 3 On the Mid-Depth Circulation of the 3.1 Introduction 70 3.2 World Ocean The Circulation of the Upper Waters and Their Contribution to the Mid-Depths Joseph L .Reid 3.3 70 The Use of Geostrophy 70 72 3.4 The Mid-Depth Circulation of the Atlantic Ocean from Core Analysis and Vertical Geostrophic Shear 74 3.5 Studies of Total Transport and Layers 79 3.6 Mid-Depth Studies Using Isopycnal Analysis 8i 3.7 Comparison of Relative Geostrophic Flow at Mid-Depth with Numerical Models of Transport 85 3.8 Mid-Depth Patterns in the World Ocean 9' 3.9 4 The Gulf Stream System N. P. Fofonoff II2 Comparison of the Maps of Shear Field and Characteristics Io9 3.I0 Conclusion IIO 4.1 Introduction II2 4.2 The Gulf Stream System 113 4.3 The Florida Current II3 4.4 The Gulf Stream I23 4.5 5 Dynamics of Large-Scale Ocean Circulation George Veronis I40 The North Atlantic Current '33 4.6 Summary and Conclusions I37 5.1 Introduction and Summary 140 5.2 The Equations for Large-Scale Dynamics I42 5.3 The Quasi-Geostrophic Equations and the -Plane I44 5.4 Ekman Layers I47 5.5 Steady Linear Models of the Wind-Driven Circulation 149 5.6 Preliminary Nonlinear Considerations I53 5.7 Why Does the Gulf Steam Leave the Coast? I57 5.8 Thermohaline Circulation vii Contents I58 5.9 Free Waves for a Constant-Depth Two-Layer Ocean on the b-Plane I64 5.Io Effect of Bottom Topography on Quasi-Geostrophic Waves 5.II I69 Baroclinic Instability 5 .I2 Effect of Nonlinearity and Turbulence Notes I74 183 6.I 6 Equatorial Currents: Introduction I84 6.2 Observations Observations and Theory 6.3 Ants Leetmaa, Theories Julian P. McCreary,Jr., and 6.4 Dennis W. Moore Discussion I85 I88 I95 I84 7 7.1 Introduction On Estuarine and 7.2 Continental-Shelf Estuarine Circulation in the Middle Atlantic Bight Circulation in the 7.3 I98 199 Middle Atlantic Bight Continental-Shelf Circulation 207 Robert C. Beardsley and William C. Boicourt Appendix: Annual Air-Sea Interaction Cycles and Mean Runoff for the Middle Atlantic Bight 230 I98 Notes 233 8 8.I Introduction 236 Small-Scale 8.2 Mixing Processes Preliminary Discussion of Various Mechanisms . S. Turner 8.3 236 Vertical Mixing in the Upper Layers of the Ocean Part Two Physical Processes in Oceanography 235 237 240 8.4 Mixing in the Interior of the Ocean 245 8.5 Mixing near the Bottom of the Ocean 9 Internal Waves and Small-Scale Processes Walter Munk 264 258 9.1 Introduction 264 9.2 Layered Ocean 268 9.3 Continuously Stratified Ocean viiiContents Contents 269 9.4 Turning Depths and Turning Latitudes 27I 9.5 Shear 273 9.6 Resonant Interactions 275 9.7 Breaking 276 9.8 Ocean Fine Structure and Microstructure 279 9.9 IO Long Waves and Ocean Tides Myrl C. Hendershott 292 An Inconclusive Discussion 283 9.Io Conclusion 290 Notes 290 IO.I Introduction 292 IO.2 Astronomical Tide-Generating Forces 293 IO.3 Laplace's Tidal Equations (LTE) and the Long-Wave Equations 295 IO.4 Long Waves in the Ocean 297 IO.5 The Ocean Surface Tide 317 io.6 Internal Tides 329 IO.7 Tidal Studies and the Rest of Oceanography 339 II II.I Low-Frequency Variability of the Sea Introduction 342 II.2 The Field of Variability of the Ocean 346 342 II.3 Summary and Conclusions 373 I2 I2.I Introduction 376 Carl Wunsch Some Varieties of 12.2 Biological Oceanography Space and Time Scales of Variation 377 J. H. Steele 376 I2.3 Ecological Variations 379 12.4 Discussion 13 The Amplitude of Convection Willem V. R. Malkus 384 381 I3.1 Introduction 384 I3.2 Basic Boussinesq Description 385 I3.3 Initial Motions ix Contents 386 13.4 Quantitative Theories for High Rayleigh Number 387 13.5 The Amplitude of Turbulent Convection from Stability 389 Criteria Part Three Techniques of Investigation 395 I4.I 14 Observations and the Impact of New Instruments 396 Experiment Design I4.2 Instrument Development: Some Principles and History 398 D. James Baker, Jr. 14.3 396 Examples of Modem Ocean Instruments 402 I4.4 Ocean Experiment Design 429 Ocean Instruments and I5 Geochemical Tracers and Ocean Circulation W. S. Broecker 434 15.1 Introduction 434 I5.2 Water-Transport Tracers 435 15.3 Water-Mass Tracers 448 I5.4 Modeling Tracer Data 448 15.5 Current Applications 449 i5.6 Ventilation of the Deep Sea 450 I5.7 Ventilation of the Main Oceanic Thermocline 456 I5.8 I6 The Origin and Development of Laboratory Models and Analogues of the Ocean Circulation Formation of Deep Waters 457 I5.9 Vertical Mixing Rates 459 I6.I A Brief Philosophy of Laboratory Experimentation 462 I6.2 Introduction 463 I6.3 The Experiments of W. S. von Arx 465 I6.4 Alan J. Faller The SAF Model 466 462 i6.5 Experiments with Rotating Covers 468 I6.6 A Variety of Interesting Experiments 472 I6.7 Concluding Remarks X Contents 478 Part Four Ocean and Atmosphere 48i I7.I 17 Introduction 482 H. Charnock 17.2 The Surface Layer 483 I7.3 The Lower Boundary 486 Air-Sea Interaction 482 17.4 Waves 490 I7.5 The Atmospheric Boundary Layer i8 Oceanic Analogues of Large-Scale Atmospheric Motions 495 I8.I Introduction 504 I8.2 The General Circulation of Oceans and Atmospheres Compared 505 Jule G. Chamey and Glenn R. Flierl The Transient Motions 506 504 I8.4 The Geostrophic Formalism 508 I8.3 I8.5 Linear Quasi-Geostrophic Dynamics of a Stratified Ocean 520 I8.6 Friction in Quasi-Geostrophic Systems 525 I8.7 Nonlinear Motions 529 I8.8 Summary Remarks 544 Appendix: The Quasi-Geostrophic Equations 546 Notes 548 Acknowledgments and Permissions 550 Reference List 554 Index 612 Contributors 622 xi Contents